If this failed would drilling just above this destroy pins as well and if that failed guessing where the screws are to right and left of keyway and trying to drill them out?
A problem with that is a lot of locks have a hardened metal anti-drill plate there. If it doesn't, you can drill above the shear line instead- that tends to work better than this way when it's possible. Some have anti-drill protection where he drilled in this video, but this is less common than for the rest of the lock face to be shielded. The best way to drill a lock like this which does not have drill protection is to use a 1/8" drill (1.25mm or 1.5mm) and aim for the mounting screws. Those are in the same location with all locks of this type. When the drill hits them, they will unscrew and the whole lock cylinder will fall out, then you can turn the lock plunger with a small screwdriver or knife tip. Good locks cannot be drilled, being protected all over- those are the ones you want on your house instead of the cheap ones like this because drilling has become very popular with thieves world-wide.
@@P_RO_ Thanks. I can see where a hardened disc can be placed on the front of a lock easier and cheaper than having a hardened cylinder. Also do some drill the cylinder to try and save the lock body for a new cylinder? With a lock of unknown quality, hardened parts, what order of attack makes the most sense? You sort of address this but could you spell it out for me?
With all due respect you were lucky, I am a locksmith with over 30 years experience ad well as a locksmith instructor. You never use a 1/4" drill bot, you were no where near the shearline at all. I understand that you are targeting non professionals but you yourself are not one.
Thank you. This is the most helpful video I’ve found. Wish I could just find a locksmith! Lol
Great information for everyone who need to drill their lock!
Agree!!
If this failed would drilling just above this destroy pins as well and if that failed guessing where the screws are to right and left of keyway and trying to drill them out?
A problem with that is a lot of locks have a hardened metal anti-drill plate there. If it doesn't, you can drill above the shear line instead- that tends to work better than this way when it's possible. Some have anti-drill protection where he drilled in this video, but this is less common than for the rest of the lock face to be shielded.
The best way to drill a lock like this which does not have drill protection is to use a 1/8" drill (1.25mm or 1.5mm) and aim for the mounting screws. Those are in the same location with all locks of this type. When the drill hits them, they will unscrew and the whole lock cylinder will fall out, then you can turn the lock plunger with a small screwdriver or knife tip. Good locks cannot be drilled, being protected all over- those are the ones you want on your house instead of the cheap ones like this because drilling has become very popular with thieves world-wide.
@@P_RO_ Thanks. I can see where a hardened disc can be placed on the front of a lock easier and cheaper than having a hardened cylinder.
Also do some drill the cylinder to try and save the lock body for a new cylinder? With a lock of unknown quality, hardened parts, what order of attack makes the most sense?
You sort of address this but could you spell it out for me?
How about completely removing the drilled out dead bolt? That's my situation.
I would say, but my tailpiece is twisted, and I can't get it out to change the deadbolt, UGH.
Hi Valentina.
Rookie
With all due respect you were lucky, I am a locksmith with over 30 years experience ad well as a locksmith instructor. You never use a 1/4" drill bot, you were no where near the shearline at all. I understand that you are targeting non professionals but you yourself are not one.