Put a blank key in there to raise all the pins. It'll make it so you drill through all of them at once. If you're accurate you can use a 1/8 bit and use the key to move control arm. Happy drillin!
@@2815JuanI've had to drill one out recently. It will be if you're using a standard Best blank. You will want to bend the top of the bow over, or cut it clean off so that it's not in the way for the drilling process. It also makes it easy at the end, as once you've drilled to the shear line, you don't have to clean out any debris. It's ready to spin the control lug.
Great video, my boss showed me a different way and your way seems to work much better for me. She would drill slightly lower and pull face plate off and never clean debris but could always make that work like it was nothing.
Use a flat blade screw driver just inside the lip of the drilled hole to pry the front cover off the core. Then you can access the locking cam and clean out the channel the locking cam needs to move into.
Compressed air will blow the debris in and around the lock as you aren't drilling the whole way through to the other side. Could be problematic once the pins are removed as the debris could stop you from turning the cylinder
Careful about putting a screw in there that is very big. It will distort the core and cause it to expand against the housing and make it a real bear to get out. Same actually goes for pressing really hard with a big drill bit like the one he's using in this video. Best to use a 3/16" imho. If you drill straight then you can turn with a small screwdriver, no need for woodscrew. If you need woodscrew, you maybe want to use small diameter or drill a pilot hole.
At the beginning, you say to measure the depth of the core before drilling, so as not to drill too far. How do you measure the core before it is removed?
Ad a veteran locksmith of 39 years as well as an instructor in two different schools I am horrified by the ignorance and just plain wrong of videos like this.
@@kylekelly1215 5/32" drill bit right at the point of the figure 8 takes out the retaining bar, you shear off the the retaining bar so when you pull the core, you can decode the pins if needed.
Put a blank key in there to raise all the pins. It'll make it so you drill through all of them at once. If you're accurate you can use a 1/8 bit and use the key to move control arm. Happy drillin!
I’m pretty sure the bow of the key will be in the way to drill straight in
@@2815JuanI've had to drill one out recently. It will be if you're using a standard Best blank. You will want to bend the top of the bow over, or cut it clean off so that it's not in the way for the drilling process. It also makes it easy at the end, as once you've drilled to the shear line, you don't have to clean out any debris. It's ready to spin the control lug.
Great video, my boss showed me a different way and your way seems to work much better for me. She would drill slightly lower and pull face plate off and never clean debris but could always make that work like it was nothing.
I tried this and it worked great video. I had to use a bigger drill bit, made things a little easier!
Hey what is flixzone? Is that a movie app
Well put together!
Thank you for your feedback!
Thanks for guidance
Ty for your time broh
This helped. Thanks!
Very nice , thank you. !
Use a flat blade screw driver just inside the lip of the drilled hole to pry the front cover off the core. Then you can access the locking cam and clean out the channel the locking cam needs to move into.
Another question: all of the vids I have watched show the use of a 90 degree pick to remove debris. Why not use compressed air?
Compressed air will blow the debris in and around the lock as you aren't drilling the whole way through to the other side. Could be problematic once the pins are removed as the debris could stop you from turning the cylinder
Good video. The screw at the end is a great idea. What size bit ?
Careful about putting a screw in there that is very big. It will distort the core and cause it to expand against the housing and make it a real bear to get out. Same actually goes for pressing really hard with a big drill bit like the one he's using in this video. Best to use a 3/16" imho. If you drill straight then you can turn with a small screwdriver, no need for woodscrew. If you need woodscrew, you maybe want to use small diameter or drill a pilot hole.
At the beginning, you say to measure the depth of the core before drilling, so as not to drill too far. How do you measure the core before it is removed?
You keep a separate core in your inventory
Assuming you've got a key (doesn't have to be a working key) you can also measure how deep the key will insert into the cylinder.
Great video! What size is that drill bit?
Thanks Greg. I used 5/16 bit.
Does this work if the lock has been locked from a failed pick?
Just pick it to control
Why not just vacuum it out ?
Drill out a dead lock
They’re not called Barros they’re called Chambers ha ha😂
You really beat up the rim cylinder removing the core.
I hate to see a lock butchered like that.
Ad a veteran locksmith of 39 years as well as an instructor in two different schools I am horrified by the ignorance and just plain wrong of videos like this.
How would you go about doing it?
@@kylekelly1215 5/32" drill bit right at the point of the figure 8 takes out the retaining bar, you shear off the the retaining bar so when you pull the core, you can decode the pins if needed.
Hack
Totally!
100% hack..