@@chhantheman9553 the clutch and flywheel are great. I imagine the exedy stage 1 can probably hold even more power than this without slipping. I definitely need to upgrade to an LSD though. The idle of the car is like stock now that it's been tuned.
@@monikhushalpuri there's been an F swap W201, that's similar. I have a W202 project car that would nicely house a K20 or K24, it's just the cost of the swap that looks prohibitive. A K24 isn't that pricey, but looking at like K Miata I'd be in a few thousand dollars just for the swap parts and then I'd still have to customize it to work in the Mercedes
I had an RSX and that torque curve is legit. It has like 30 more whp than mine did but also like 10 to 15 more ft/lbs across the board. I bet that feels really good. I remember watching some japanese car racing show where J's racing did a 2.2 stroker with lightweight pistons. You could probably keep those cams and get another 10ft/lbs across the board and bring the top end power up another 15whp.
I have a 03 type s with full bolt ons and kpro making 220 whp im going to cam it soon with RDX injectors hopefully i see some great numbers just like this one .. mine is also a k20a2 with 202k miles goal is 250whp !
@@thedude3189 It absolutely can with cams and the added timing. The valvetrain gives you the ability to handle more RPM. I mean I made made 270 without any head porting.
With vtec and vtc right there pretty much is no crossover due to same VE values. When there is a big crossover or bump in graph there are more power on the table, the vtec should have been set lower.
Top end sucks for the street though.. Its so damn slow below Vtec... Has no torque.. K24 bottom end is where its at. The torque makes all the difference. I made 270whp/220wtq with my k20z1 head and K24a2 bottom end. AND it doesnt sacrifice much top end. I have 2.2 DC cams as well and Supertech valvetrain. Have the custom ported K20z1 oil pump as well with a 40 degree custom VTC gear for safety.. Revs to 8600 rpm and makes max torque(221wtq) at 4000rpm.. While yes, it is a more linear powerband, it is FAR more usable and enjoyable as a daily driver on the street. When I had this setup on my K20z1, It was dog slow below 5500rpm. It was all top end, so I would be sitting there making all this fucking noise when I went WOT and was going NO WHERE until VTEC kicked in lol.. No more getting destroyed by those Prius on a green light! LMAO
@@grantwhitney8932 I do have a stock bottom end. THe 06-08 version of the K24A with the RBB3 head has strengthened internals. My top end is simply Supertech valves, retainers, seals, and DC 2.2 cams. If I planned to go with a higher comp piston I would upgrade to a beefier rod as well. But the K24A really only needs beefy internals when you plan to rev really high. I am going boost, so if anything, I may lose RPM and ditch my cams. For a street car and something I partially daily, big NA power isn't really a great idea. Going with big cams, high comp pistons, and high RPM drastically affects driveability and reliability. The biggest issue with K-series reliability is RPM. You keep RPM down and stay below 500whp, as long as the motor is healthy and you stay on top of maintenance, the K-series will last a long time.
@@JonHop1 Is boosting k24/20 worth it, or if im going boost does it even matter? Id be happy with like 300whp lol im just intake tune rn and i have so much fun
Hey I’m running an 02 type s on my 04 ep3 and I’m using a ktuner with jumper harness everything is good so far but my only issue is my temp gauge isn’t working on my cluster
is running a stock-tuned basemap on hondata for an 8th gen si safe in terms of AFRs and knock for a dd with occasional track days? Don't want to get a tune until I have some more parts but I also want better throttle response and midrange which is why I am considering running the basemap for a while... Any help is appreciated, thanks for putting up helpful videos
get a custom 3" short ram pipe with a V stack. gonna have to relocate the battery tho. i wouldve done that instead of the injen intake for that specific reason. it was so annoying when i had to put the coupler back on. probably held me back on about 5hp but my full k24 setup made 243whp 194wtq it was a beast for just a fbo k24
Custom 3.5.. relocate the battery and go with a fully custom intake. This way, it fits the way YOU want it to fit and goes where you want it to go. I recommend the same for the Exhaust if you are NA. Go with a fully custom Kteller or TruBendz setup with Vband. This way, you can mock it up to perfectly fit your car, and you can switch in and out ANY muffler, resonator, cat combo you desire within seconds. Best decision I ever made and it sounds great. IF its too loud, you can easily just ass a bigger resonator, or a different muffler until you find the sound you want. And all for around the same price as a name-brand exhaust. (I paid about $700 for the whole setup and labor).
The injen is a tight fit but the coupler barely fits into the throttle body and it has a hard bend cause of the angle of the RBC manifold. I wouldn't recommend using this intake with an RBC.
Nice bro. Im wondering how many extra whp net gain with cams/valvetrain. I have a K24a2 JDM engine, Ported RBC, Ported OBX TB, Injen CAI, PLM Header, RDX Injectors, and full 3" Header back exhaust. She made 247whp. How much more could I expect with the 2.2 cams and valvetrain? And is this good for a future turbo setup? Tia. Love the vids bro. Just subbed
My guess would be about 10 to 15 more HP with a set of 2.2 cams - In your case i might consider the 3.2 instead - But what i always say is contact Drag Cartel directly and tell them what you have and what your goal is and how you plan to use the car - They can help spec the cams best
Im making 270/220 on my K20z1 head and 06' TSX K24a2 bottom end.. I have the DC 2.2's and full Supertech Valvetrain. So pretty much the same setup as this just way more torque. I have ported RBC with the rare Hybrid race 70mm TB. Custom 3 inch exhaust and ASP custom Race header. I have a ported k20 oil pump and 40 degree custom VTC gear. I redline at 8600. Power seems to fall over right before then tho. I would go with a higher comp piston, but Im going boost soon. May be ditching the cams. Not sure yet.
@@elmatador4759 Its nice bro, but Im going boost soon I think. I kinda prefer the stock-motor boosted setup for reliability and comfort, and you make more power. Maybe stay in the 350-400 range on a smaller turbo. Keep the RPM down a bit to maybe 8000-8200 tops to preserve the life of the motor. Im finding K's to be more expensive and tougher to get these days, so Im thinking more long-term. But either way, K24 bottom end is a must for a street/daily car.
Good video, but if teaching others its good to do it right. The lambda targets aren’t whats ploted on the lambda overlay difference. The difference comes from under option, settings and lambda overlay, that settings just controls the overlay. So you can have a lambda target of 13.0 but if you in overlay settings have 14.7 it Will show the % change you need to do to hit 14.7 and not 13.0. So you always need to match them or you Will be fighting yourself with closed loop on.
Hi your videos are great 👍🏻 I have an ep3 pra ecu with kpro 4 could you doa video on how to use data loggers to improve your maps please thank you in advance 🙂
Hey nick, Did you do a baseline dyno run prior to installing the DC 2.2’s? I’d like to know what they made over the stock prb cams . I think a great video would be baseline, then swap in DC DIC’s then DC 2.2’s
I agree - I definitely want to get my hands a on a few sets of cams and do some back to back comparisons - Unfortunately there is no baseline line dyno runs with this exact setup on the stock cams - We did tune it on a different dynojet and it made 223/164. It was on an older/different dynojet tho so we cant overlay the dyno graphs
Was going to bed until I saw this video its 3am here lol (Own a 06 rsx type S myself) Similar setup I have skunk2 header, ktuned exhaust, rbc with stock TB, injen cold air intake on ktuner ecu made 229hp 160tq looking at Drag cartels Cams myself either 2.2s or 3.2s hoping for 250hp and will be upgrading my intake to Hybrid racing Cold air intake! And any recommendation on Throttle body? I heard ktuned ones and skunk2 get stuck thank you in advance! Keep the video coming with the Rsx's!
Nice, that's a healthy engine - If you baselined at 229 it should be able to make 250 or at least very close to 250 on that same dyno with a set of 2.2's. But depending on what the future plans are for the setup, 3.2's might be a better investment. Ive tuned countless setups with the newer style K-Tuned throttle body and it works really well. If ever there is an issue with it, its usually that it just needs a bit of adjusting of the throttle plate which is adjustable
@@tuningbynick Thanks for the reply and ok ill be looking into the ktuned throttle soon! And do you think running Drag Cartels 3.2s for a k20z1 stock block is ok for a daily? It's not over killing the stock block?
Slightly higher than what you would see with dic. With this setup the dic is more worth your money. The 2.2 don't realize their full potential on the stock bottom end for this car but still make great power.
A friend made me the sheet metal collector part and then i just bought a 16" ventilation hose and stick a ventilation fan inside the collector - It works really well
Just get a K24 short block bro.. For about $500+ labor you will get around 250+whp and over 200 torque with a K20/k24.. It was the best decision I ever made. I did the same thing this dude did. Went cams and bolt ons on my K20z1.. While it was nice, I came across a K24 for dirt cheap so I grabbed it. I through the K24a2 block on the K20z1 head, and bro, it was NIGHT AND DAY! The torque is a game changer! It is really THAT significant. I had my K20z1 pump ported, kept my cams, and upgraded my Valvetrain to Supertech to handle more RPM. I also used a custom 40 degree VTC gear to be safe. With the DC 2.2 cams, Hybrid Race 3.5 inch CAI, full Kteller 3 inch custom exhaust with Magnaflow Resonator and Apexi Muffler I made 272whp and 221wtq. And all I did was swap out the bottom end and upgrade the K20z2 valvetrain!.. Its a MONSTER!. Torque FTW!.
@@Fa5Squad why? K24 is better in every way.. Its cheaper to just got a k24 bottom end than modding the k20.. You can get a k24 bottom end for like 300-500$ and its pretty much a straight swap. Easy as can be. And the added torque is so much better for daily driving. You actually get moving in low RPM. Its wonderful. The k20 is just so slow below Vtec.
@@JonHop1 yea the extra torque is nice but I feel the 2.0 cranks rev slightly faster in high rpm and I think it would last longer than a 2.4 crank just cuz of how big they are. Big cranks don't like high rpm. And the type r is 2.0 not 2.4 there's a reason for that.
@@JonHop1 plus I alrdy baught a k20 header so I'd need a different header and just baught a new ktuned k20 post mount so I'd have to buy a k24 one lol just easier to stay k20 nd the k24 block is bigger so it's harder to work on less space
Hey nick, for u to tune a honda, do u require a hondata or ktuner? Because they dont make either for the base csx (k20z2) so is it possible for u to tune my bolt ons k20z2 or no?
Hi - Yes, unfortunately you do need some sort of ECU programmer for me to be able to tune the car. But unfortunately i don't believe anyone offers a system for the CSX with that engine
You would definitely need bigger injectors then RDX for a similar setup on E85 - These injectors were at 85% duty - This is specific to RSX tho, because it is a fixed fuel pressure - If you had a regulator that you could use to raise the base fuel pressure you could just barely get away with RDX IMO but a set of 550's or bigger would be best
There are lots of little differences - But for a setup like this car - The main difference is that they both use different ECUs - Both systems need to be installed in a stock Honda ECU Hondata Kpro gets installed into a 2002 to 2004 ECU - Ktuner gets installed into a 2005 to 2006 ECU
Stick with RBC.. Its cheaper and has been proven to make just as much power as aftermarket intakes... Unless you are going for huge power, the RBC is good for really anything below 500whp. I made LESS power on my Skunk2 Ultra when Boosted.. Made 451 with the RBC and 442 with the Skunk2 Ultra.. You can port and polish a RBC for cheaper than a Skunk2 Ultra.
The 2021 STI makes ~250whp and a lot more torque than NA Honda motors, but it weighs a good 500-600lbs more than an 8th gen Civic Si or RSX Type S. An FBO RSX should be an even match, possibly even pulling away up top depending on the drivers.
This is wheel HP because we are measuring HP at the wheels - To measure HP at the engine, the engine has to be out of the car and directly connected at the crankshaft
@@tuningbynick Then your dyno is ready very high. 241whp is like 285 Flywheel hp.. impossible for a stock k20a2 with cams. The max ive seen here in the UK over the past 10 years is 265 flywheel hp. Why do American dynos read so dramatically higher than Europe? 🤷🏼♂️
@@kristianharley7231 any k20a2/z1/z3 with decent cams and fbo averages about 240-250 whp. You should do more research. It's not really that impressive. Tbh this car can make 250 whp with slight adjustments to the intake and a retune.
@@HarisRazzaq this is not true on a k20a2 (without forced induction), and just barely true for the K24a2... speaking because I have owned both and dyno'ed both (in USA) several times. The car in video should be pulling around the 225-230HP mark (to the wheels) at best. Nice car though, not to take that away from you. Also it's a known thing that the different versions of dyno in USA def WILL produce varying results with the same car.
Quick question bro. I’m trying to tune my 8th gen civic on flash pro. I noticed my command AF is always adjusting. Let’s say target part throttle is 14.7 It will range from 14.2 to 15.0 AFR. Is that normal or a sign something is off? My buddies 8th gen stays planted at 14.7 command unless he goes in to wot map
The short answer is yes that is normal - My guess if you have have "use MAP to determine WOT" checked and he does not - There are tons of settings that can be checked on and off for the basemap that can have various effects on tune
@@tuningbynick hmm good point. My friend is turbo and has “map enabled and used map to determine wot. “ that might be it. My other thought was my 02 sensor might be going bad or something. Thanks for the response I appreciate the help more then you know on this first DIY turbo build and tune I am planning on doing.
No.. Only a slightly more aggressive idle. At least for me. I am idling a bit high though(around 1K), but that was done on purpose to help ease the vibes from my mounts and smooth it out.
@@tuningbynick I just tried your link. It took me to your site. By no way of contacting you. I am looking to get a etune in a couple of weeks. So what's the best way to contact you. Do you have a ig, Facebook etc
If you still have contact with them, I’ve got a set of brand new K20 Manley H Beam Rods for sale $320 ($70 below retail). Or if you are interested. I bought them by mistake for my k24 and cant return them due to covid, and the time. Ill disinfect before shipping.
Hey Nick, Any chance you or the owner had a Pre-Cam/Valvetrain upgrade number? On the A2 I've seen the milder cams make decent gains, certainly "worth it" by NA Tuning $/Hp standards at least. The reason I ask is id like to see compared to the Z1/ITR/K20A before and after results. For example with all the same bolt ons save im on a 70mm TB and have a different brand of 3" exhaust, I made 240whp on 93oct on my K20A (not to forget the minor SCR bump though..) Just really curious at what point (or Size?) Do cams really make a difference on a K20? It seems that on the high compression or larger bore motors, sure thing, but on stock bottom cars or cars with stock rod bolts not turning 9500rpm plus, the differences are minor given all the work so to speak. Curious on you thoughts. Also I've fought my Injen to RBC for years and hate how it fits. Hybrid Racing isn't bad given the cost.
@@brianjewell4139 yep. I feel with a 3.5 or 4 inch cold air intake with velocity stack and retune, the car can push 245. and maybe a more beefy intake manifold like a ported rrc or skunk2 ultra will create more top end power past 8500.
@@HarisRazzaq I have a Ported RRC sitting in my room that was on the JDM DC5R K20A when I bought it luckily. On the back to back tests it did make more peak bit gave up a good chunk lower down, where, sadly, I spend more time *(circuit racing and back roads) so I kept the ported RBC on the car. I definitely think with you top ends flow potential the big CAI and like you said a good Manifold will wake it up even more. How is the drivability say from 2000 to 5500 or so rpm in your opinion?
Thanks again for the tune Nick. The car is a street beast now
Im glad youre happy with the results
What stage clutch are you using? And do u have LSD?
@@chhantheman9553 exedy stage 1 with competition clutch 11.5 lbs flywheel. Stock trans no lsd
Nice how is it holding up? And how is the cams? Is it noticeable at idle?
@@chhantheman9553 the clutch and flywheel are great. I imagine the exedy stage 1 can probably hold even more power than this without slipping. I definitely need to upgrade to an LSD though. The idle of the car is like stock now that it's been tuned.
Man, I love my Mercedes but I am so jealous of the immense aftermarket for Hondas and the tuning potential of the awesome K series.
Looks like it’s time to get into a Honda/Acura ;)
Go with an Acura ☠️
K swap your Mercedes
You know what...a k swapped w201,w202 and w203 hasn’t been done yet 🤔 lsd’s can be bought from wavetrac or quaife for most Benz’s
@@monikhushalpuri there's been an F swap W201, that's similar. I have a W202 project car that would nicely house a K20 or K24, it's just the cost of the swap that looks prohibitive. A K24 isn't that pricey, but looking at like K Miata I'd be in a few thousand dollars just for the swap parts and then I'd still have to customize it to work in the Mercedes
I keep hoping to find a dyno chart with stock cams vs 2.2 ... Haven't found one yet.
I had an RSX and that torque curve is legit. It has like 30 more whp than mine did but also like 10 to 15 more ft/lbs across the board. I bet that feels really good.
I remember watching some japanese car racing show where J's racing did a 2.2 stroker with lightweight pistons. You could probably keep those cams and get another 10ft/lbs across the board and bring the top end power up another 15whp.
I have a 03 type s with full bolt ons and kpro making 220 whp im going to cam it soon with RDX injectors hopefully i see some great numbers just like this one .. mine is also a k20a2 with 202k miles goal is 250whp !
Love these videos thank you .
I love this video
Wow those are great numbers for a stock k20a2 with bolt ons!
Thats not a stock K20a2... It is cammed and has upgraded valvetrain... Cams can really make a big difference on a K..
You think a 3.2 would add a lot of power
@@JonHop1 I made more power without camshafts, I ported my head and port matched my rrc.
@@JonHop1 upgraded valvetrain doesn't increase power.
@@thedude3189 It absolutely can with cams and the added timing. The valvetrain gives you the ability to handle more RPM. I mean I made made 270 without any head porting.
🔥🔥🔥
That crossover!
With vtec and vtc right there pretty much is no crossover due to same VE values. When there is a big crossover or bump in graph there are more power on the table, the vtec should have been set lower.
Hi Nick, in this setup whats the vtc degrees is like? My k20a2 has the same cams and it seems to like 40degrees almost always at WOT
I had a similar setup in a crx (256/171) conservative timing cali 91 also , she would get down on everything, hella top end 👌🏾🔥👍🏾💯
god damn im jealous 😩
Top end sucks for the street though.. Its so damn slow below Vtec... Has no torque.. K24 bottom end is where its at. The torque makes all the difference. I made 270whp/220wtq with my k20z1 head and K24a2 bottom end. AND it doesnt sacrifice much top end. I have 2.2 DC cams as well and Supertech valvetrain. Have the custom ported K20z1 oil pump as well with a 40 degree custom VTC gear for safety.. Revs to 8600 rpm and makes max torque(221wtq) at 4000rpm.. While yes, it is a more linear powerband, it is FAR more usable and enjoyable as a daily driver on the street. When I had this setup on my K20z1, It was dog slow below 5500rpm. It was all top end, so I would be sitting there making all this fucking noise when I went WOT and was going NO WHERE until VTEC kicked in lol.. No more getting destroyed by those Prius on a green light! LMAO
@@JonHop1 Yeah i really wanna go k24/20 in the future bro it looks so sick. Are you on stock internals?
@@grantwhitney8932 I do have a stock bottom end. THe 06-08 version of the K24A with the RBB3 head has strengthened internals. My top end is simply Supertech valves, retainers, seals, and DC 2.2 cams. If I planned to go with a higher comp piston I would upgrade to a beefier rod as well. But the K24A really only needs beefy internals when you plan to rev really high. I am going boost, so if anything, I may lose RPM and ditch my cams. For a street car and something I partially daily, big NA power isn't really a great idea. Going with big cams, high comp pistons, and high RPM drastically affects driveability and reliability. The biggest issue with K-series reliability is RPM. You keep RPM down and stay below 500whp, as long as the motor is healthy and you stay on top of maintenance, the K-series will last a long time.
@@JonHop1 Is boosting k24/20 worth it, or if im going boost does it even matter? Id be happy with like 300whp lol im just intake tune rn and i have so much fun
Sick content
Hey I’m running an 02 type s on my 04 ep3 and I’m using a ktuner with jumper harness everything is good so far but my only issue is my temp gauge isn’t working on my cluster
Nick have you ever used Toyota 4runner coolant hoses...thats what he probably needs
That is dope set up. Have you had a chance to tune any k24/20 frankenstein builds yet.
Ive tuned a bunch, but it was before i started making YT videos - This season i should have a lot more videos like this one
is running a stock-tuned basemap on hondata for an 8th gen si safe in terms of AFRs and knock for a dd with occasional track days? Don't want to get a tune until I have some more parts but I also want better throttle response and midrange which is why I am considering running the basemap for a while... Any help is appreciated, thanks for putting up helpful videos
Nice bro
hiya nick, what did it make with the stock cams, cheers
What stage are the cams?
What’s the best CAI you’d reccomend? I have the hybrid racing CAI and it has a few bends and crimps in it need to see if I can fix it.
get a custom 3" short ram pipe with a V stack. gonna have to relocate the battery tho. i wouldve done that instead of the injen intake for that specific reason. it was so annoying when i had to put the coupler back on. probably held me back on about 5hp but my full k24 setup made 243whp 194wtq it was a beast for just a fbo k24
I agree - Relocating the battery and making a custom 3" or even a 3.5" with a V stack will get you the most power
Custom 3.5.. relocate the battery and go with a fully custom intake. This way, it fits the way YOU want it to fit and goes where you want it to go. I recommend the same for the Exhaust if you are NA. Go with a fully custom Kteller or TruBendz setup with Vband. This way, you can mock it up to perfectly fit your car, and you can switch in and out ANY muffler, resonator, cat combo you desire within seconds. Best decision I ever made and it sounds great. IF its too loud, you can easily just ass a bigger resonator, or a different muffler until you find the sound you want. And all for around the same price as a name-brand exhaust. (I paid about $700 for the whole setup and labor).
So close to 9k , everyone who haven’t subbed hit that button 💯👏🏾
Very interested to see how you fit a 3" cold air intake into this. Trying to do the same. Great content/work!
If we end up doing it i will definitely share the results
Definitely 250whp, (hybrid racing) makes one, fits nice , if he moves that battery he will get more results..
The injen is a tight fit but the coupler barely fits into the throttle body and it has a hard bend cause of the angle of the RBC manifold. I wouldn't recommend using this intake with an RBC.
@@bighomieJ5X I agree with you. The cams definitely have room to make more power. The intake is restricting the airflow into the manifold though.
I have the hybrid racing 3 on my k24 RSX. Fits well with a RRC IM.
yummy!
Nice bro. Im wondering how many extra whp net gain with cams/valvetrain. I have a K24a2 JDM engine, Ported RBC, Ported OBX TB, Injen CAI, PLM Header, RDX Injectors, and full 3" Header back exhaust. She made 247whp. How much more could I expect with the 2.2 cams and valvetrain? And is this good for a future turbo setup? Tia. Love the vids bro. Just subbed
My guess would be about 10 to 15 more HP with a set of 2.2 cams - In your case i might consider the 3.2 instead - But what i always say is contact Drag Cartel directly and tell them what you have and what your goal is and how you plan to use the car - They can help spec the cams best
@@tuningbynick Thanks alot for the tips bros.
Im making 270/220 on my K20z1 head and 06' TSX K24a2 bottom end.. I have the DC 2.2's and full Supertech Valvetrain. So pretty much the same setup as this just way more torque. I have ported RBC with the rare Hybrid race 70mm TB. Custom 3 inch exhaust and ASP custom Race header. I have a ported k20 oil pump and 40 degree custom VTC gear. I redline at 8600. Power seems to fall over right before then tho. I would go with a higher comp piston, but Im going boost soon. May be ditching the cams. Not sure yet.
@@JonHop1 Nice build man! Sounds killer
@@elmatador4759 Its nice bro, but Im going boost soon I think. I kinda prefer the stock-motor boosted setup for reliability and comfort, and you make more power. Maybe stay in the 350-400 range on a smaller turbo. Keep the RPM down a bit to maybe 8000-8200 tops to preserve the life of the motor. Im finding K's to be more expensive and tougher to get these days, so Im thinking more long-term. But either way, K24 bottom end is a must for a street/daily car.
Can u make a video one how to tune rev hang on a ktuner r1 ?
Good video, but if teaching others its good to do it right.
The lambda targets aren’t whats ploted on the lambda overlay difference.
The difference comes from under option, settings and lambda overlay, that settings just controls the overlay.
So you can have a lambda target of 13.0 but if you in overlay settings have 14.7 it Will show the % change you need to do to hit 14.7 and not 13.0.
So you always need to match them or you Will be fighting yourself with closed loop on.
Are you sure you are commenting on the right video here?
Hi your videos are great 👍🏻 I have an ep3 pra ecu with kpro 4 could you doa video on how to use data loggers to improve your maps please thank you in advance 🙂
Shoot me an email and i would be happy to discuss options - nick@tuningbynick.com
The 241Hp is @ The wheels right
Yes
Nice RSX, Nick what would be better for a K24a2 with I/H/E Flashpro, on the stock RBB manifold and redline under 8k, the DIC's or the 2.2?
The DICs would be better
Do u have a discount code for drag cartel cams 2.2 cams
I wish i did - I should really talk to them and see if we can set something up - They are the only brand of cams that i recommend
Hey nick,
Did you do a baseline dyno run prior to installing the DC 2.2’s? I’d like to know what they made over the stock prb cams .
I think a great video would be baseline, then swap in DC DIC’s then DC 2.2’s
I agree - I definitely want to get my hands a on a few sets of cams and do some back to back comparisons - Unfortunately there is no baseline line dyno runs with this exact setup on the stock cams - We did tune it on a different dynojet and it made 223/164. It was on an older/different dynojet tho so we cant overlay the dyno graphs
Soon
Was going to bed until I saw this video its 3am here lol (Own a 06 rsx type S myself) Similar setup I have skunk2 header, ktuned exhaust, rbc with stock TB, injen cold air intake on ktuner ecu made 229hp 160tq looking at Drag cartels Cams myself either 2.2s or 3.2s hoping for 250hp and will be upgrading my intake to Hybrid racing Cold air intake! And any recommendation on Throttle body? I heard ktuned ones and skunk2 get stuck thank you in advance! Keep the video coming with the Rsx's!
Nice, that's a healthy engine - If you baselined at 229 it should be able to make 250 or at least very close to 250 on that same dyno with a set of 2.2's. But depending on what the future plans are for the setup, 3.2's might be a better investment. Ive tuned countless setups with the newer style K-Tuned throttle body and it works really well. If ever there is an issue with it, its usually that it just needs a bit of adjusting of the throttle plate which is adjustable
@@tuningbynick Thanks for the reply and ok ill be looking into the ktuned throttle soon! And do you think running Drag Cartels 3.2s for a k20z1 stock block is ok for a daily? It's not over killing the stock block?
Is the power gains similar with Dic Dragt cartel or noticeable difference with the 2.2
Slightly higher than what you would see with dic. With this setup the dic is more worth your money. The 2.2 don't realize their full potential on the stock bottom end for this car but still make great power.
@@HarisRazzaq just got dyno the other day. Did my K24/20 FBO with drop in cams, no valvetrain on 91
Made 247.5
190 TQ
Where did you get your exhaust fume extractor?
A friend made me the sheet metal collector part and then i just bought a 16" ventilation hose and stick a ventilation fan inside the collector - It works really well
Basically the same setup I wanna do to my 8th gen hoping fot similar numbers 🤘😈
Just get a K24 short block bro.. For about $500+ labor you will get around 250+whp and over 200 torque with a K20/k24.. It was the best decision I ever made. I did the same thing this dude did. Went cams and bolt ons on my K20z1.. While it was nice, I came across a K24 for dirt cheap so I grabbed it. I through the K24a2 block on the K20z1 head, and bro, it was NIGHT AND DAY! The torque is a game changer! It is really THAT significant. I had my K20z1 pump ported, kept my cams, and upgraded my Valvetrain to Supertech to handle more RPM. I also used a custom 40 degree VTC gear to be safe. With the DC 2.2 cams, Hybrid Race 3.5 inch CAI, full Kteller 3 inch custom exhaust with Magnaflow Resonator and Apexi Muffler I made 272whp and 221wtq. And all I did was swap out the bottom end and upgrade the K20z2 valvetrain!.. Its a MONSTER!. Torque FTW!.
@@JonHop1 I'd rather stay K20 unless I'm in a pinch and need an engine fast I'd get a k24
@@Fa5Squad why? K24 is better in every way.. Its cheaper to just got a k24 bottom end than modding the k20.. You can get a k24 bottom end for like 300-500$ and its pretty much a straight swap. Easy as can be. And the added torque is so much better for daily driving. You actually get moving in low RPM. Its wonderful. The k20 is just so slow below Vtec.
@@JonHop1 yea the extra torque is nice but I feel the 2.0 cranks rev slightly faster in high rpm and I think it would last longer than a 2.4 crank just cuz of how big they are. Big cranks don't like high rpm. And the type r is 2.0 not 2.4 there's a reason for that.
@@JonHop1 plus I alrdy baught a k20 header so I'd need a different header and just baught a new ktuned k20 post mount so I'd have to buy a k24 one lol just easier to stay k20 nd the k24 block is bigger so it's harder to work on less space
Wher are u locate
Hey nick, for u to tune a honda, do u require a hondata or ktuner? Because they dont make either for the base csx (k20z2) so is it possible for u to tune my bolt ons k20z2 or no?
Hi - Yes, unfortunately you do need some sort of ECU programmer for me to be able to tune the car. But unfortunately i don't believe anyone offers a system for the CSX with that engine
On a similar set up do you think running rdx injectors on e85 will be fine or will it max out the duty cycle?
You would definitely need bigger injectors then RDX for a similar setup on E85 - These injectors were at 85% duty - This is specific to RSX tho, because it is a fixed fuel pressure - If you had a regulator that you could use to raise the base fuel pressure you could just barely get away with RDX IMO but a set of 550's or bigger would be best
What is the difference between k tuner and hondata in a k swap
There are lots of little differences - But for a setup like this car - The main difference is that they both use different ECUs - Both systems need to be installed in a stock Honda ECU Hondata Kpro gets installed into a 2002 to 2004 ECU - Ktuner gets installed into a 2005 to 2006 ECU
Would you recommend the rbc ported or skunkw ultra street?
For this sort of power level either is good. However if you add porting and a spacer to the Skunk2 it will make more then the ported RBC
@@tuningbynick bigger isn't always better tho it's been proven bruhh
Stick with RBC.. Its cheaper and has been proven to make just as much power as aftermarket intakes... Unless you are going for huge power, the RBC is good for really anything below 500whp. I made LESS power on my Skunk2 Ultra when Boosted.. Made 451 with the RBC and 442 with the Skunk2 Ultra.. You can port and polish a RBC for cheaper than a Skunk2 Ultra.
How would it stack up against a 21 sti?
Homie just picked one up and I’m looking into a rsx or si
The 2021 STI makes ~250whp and a lot more torque than NA Honda motors, but it weighs a good 500-600lbs more than an 8th gen Civic Si or RSX Type S. An FBO RSX should be an even match, possibly even pulling away up top depending on the drivers.
Would the same bolts on a k24a2/3 produce 240wbhp ? Or less?. My car is producing 215wbhp with the same setup but k24a3 and w/out rdx injectors
Swap the head to a k20a2 head and drop in these cams you’ll have a huge power gain
Is he tuned on 93? Or just regular 91
This is on 94
Hi
This hp in motor or wheels? Thanks
This is wheel HP because we are measuring HP at the wheels - To measure HP at the engine, the engine has to be out of the car and directly connected at the crankshaft
@@tuningbynick Then your dyno is ready very high. 241whp is like 285 Flywheel hp.. impossible for a stock k20a2 with cams. The max ive seen here in the UK over the past 10 years is 265 flywheel hp. Why do American dynos read so dramatically higher than Europe? 🤷🏼♂️
@@kristianharley7231 any k20a2/z1/z3 with decent cams and fbo averages about 240-250 whp. You should do more research. It's not really that impressive. Tbh this car can make 250 whp with slight adjustments to the intake and a retune.
@@HarisRazzaq this is not true on a k20a2 (without forced induction), and just barely true for the K24a2... speaking because I have owned both and dyno'ed both (in USA) several times. The car in video should be pulling around the 225-230HP mark (to the wheels) at best. Nice car though, not to take that away from you. Also it's a known thing that the different versions of dyno in USA def WILL produce varying results with the same car.
Quick question bro. I’m trying to tune my 8th gen civic on flash pro. I noticed my command AF is always adjusting. Let’s say target part throttle is 14.7 It will range from 14.2 to 15.0 AFR. Is that normal or a sign something is off? My buddies 8th gen stays planted at 14.7 command unless he goes in to wot map
The short answer is yes that is normal - My guess if you have have "use MAP to determine WOT" checked and he does not - There are tons of settings that can be checked on and off for the basemap that can have various effects on tune
@@tuningbynick hmm good point. My friend is turbo and has “map enabled and used map to determine wot. “ that might be it. My other thought was my 02 sensor might be going bad or something. Thanks for the response I appreciate the help more then you know on this first DIY turbo build and tune I am planning on doing.
Do those cams have the intoxicating choppy idle like the 3.2s?
The idle on these cams is very tame - Almost stock like
No.. Only a slightly more aggressive idle. At least for me. I am idling a bit high though(around 1K), but that was done on purpose to help ease the vibes from my mounts and smooth it out.
Do you do etune
Yes i do - Shoot me an email and i would be happy to discuss - nick@tuningbynick.com
@@tuningbynick I just tried your link. It took me to your site. By no way of contacting you. I am looking to get a etune in a couple of weeks. So what's the best way to contact you. Do you have a ig, Facebook etc
If you still have contact with them, I’ve got a set of brand new K20 Manley H Beam Rods for sale $320 ($70 below retail). Or if you are interested. I bought them by mistake for my k24 and cant return them due to covid, and the time. Ill disinfect before shipping.
Thanks - Hopefully someone will contact you - I know the plan for this setup is to eventually go K24 tho
Hey Nick,
Any chance you or the owner had a Pre-Cam/Valvetrain upgrade number?
On the A2 I've seen the milder cams make decent gains, certainly "worth it" by NA Tuning $/Hp standards at least.
The reason I ask is id like to see compared to the Z1/ITR/K20A before and after results. For example with all the same bolt ons save im on a 70mm TB and have a different brand of 3" exhaust, I made 240whp on 93oct on my K20A (not to forget the minor SCR bump though..)
Just really curious at what point (or Size?) Do cams really make a difference on a K20? It seems that on the high compression or larger bore motors, sure thing, but on stock bottom cars or cars with stock rod bolts not turning 9500rpm plus, the differences are minor given all the work so to speak. Curious on you thoughts.
Also I've fought my Injen to RBC for years and hate how it fits. Hybrid Racing isn't bad given the cost.
This car made 223 whp/164 torque before the cams/valvetrain upgrade. It also had a non ported RBC and stock throttle body as well.
@@HarisRazzaq That's a really nice gain then in your case, I'm looking forward to one you get the CAI ✔
@@brianjewell4139 yep. I feel with a 3.5 or 4 inch cold air intake with velocity stack and retune, the car can push 245. and maybe a more beefy intake manifold like a ported rrc or skunk2 ultra will create more top end power past 8500.
@@HarisRazzaq I have a Ported RRC sitting in my room that was on the JDM DC5R K20A when I bought it luckily. On the back to back tests it did make more peak bit gave up a good chunk lower down, where, sadly, I spend more time *(circuit racing and back roads) so I kept the ported RBC on the car.
I definitely think with you top ends flow potential the big CAI and like you said a good Manifold will wake it up even more.
How is the drivability say from 2000 to 5500 or so rpm in your opinion?
@@brianjewell4139 when not in vtec, it drives like any other bolt on k series. The vtec is where it really rips
Is that power at the wheels? Hopefully
Yes, of course. He is measuring it on a dynamometer.
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