That's a bad boy right there people forget the Rsx Type S doesn't weigh anything so that what made them fast back in day and this one a lot of people will be surprised how it moves
There is no actual purpose except for looks on a Naturally Aspirated car... unless the motor is very very ill, which this one does not seem to be. I've run an oil catch can on these RSX-Ss, and the motors have little to no blowby... once you increase the pressure onto the piston rings with boost, an oil catch can is a good idea... but also not extremely necessary by any measure, unless over 20psi and on aftermarket pistons. You could get by without one... as always, oil catch cans are for looks and very little more, and this is coming from experience and Engineering knowledge. Simply a seafoam steam cleaning once a year will tell you how much build up you have accumulated, and on these, even boosted, there is very little. I don't waste my time with oil catch cans, unless as I mentioned with aftermarket pistons and over 20psi. Forged/aftermarket pistons have greater clearances than stock pistons, which you will actually hear when running them. More gap+more boost=more blowby=need for oil catch can
VTEC is on till redline. VTEC is not the same as cam angles, which Nick talked about. Cam Angles=VTC, and all engines with iVTEC have that. VTEC is for high RPMs to make power, and switched off on low RPMs to not give that lope sound that V8s with cam(s) have. Not in VTEC= better for fuel economy. In VTEC= better for power. Low RPM flow matches the cams not being in VTEC, while high RPM flow matches the cams being in VTEC. They go together.
I've got an 04 Type S. Is this 05 throttle by wire or cable? If it was cable, did the owner do a cruise control delete by changing to a 70mm TB? I can't find a larger TB that lets me retain CC for a throttle-by-cable setup. Hybrid Racing made one 13 years ago, but quit right before I started my build. I thought I read on a forum someone using a Mustang TB too. Anyone got any ideas?
It's cable driven as all RSXs are. There are no aftermarket throttlebodies that allow cruise control... because in reality, you don't need an aftermarket throttlebody unless you have a built engine making 90-100hp more than stock... the stock throttlebody on RSX-Ss is 62.5mm, and boring them out to 66mm is more than plenty. Look up king motorsports to get it done for $150. Going to 70mm is just barely not too big to cause a FBO RSX-S to lose power by going too large. So, in essence, he is ready to go with a built motor for that size throttlebody, or at minimum, aftermarket cams (which even the best only give 3-7whp over the stock z1/itr cams). For reference, a stock 05-06 puts down 175whp, and with full boltons, with the lightest flywheel, the lightest wheels, and tires, the record is 70hp gain, for a total of 245whp... this car has pig heavy stock 21lb wheels, don't know the tires or flywheel, there are better headers, and I don't see a thermal/Hondata gasket. With those additional mods, I can see the car gaining another 20hp... yeah, this is a high reading dyno, because it's impossible to have over 230whp with the mods it has (even if it has the lightest flywheel and lightest tires).... therefore, a stock 05-06 RSX-S on this dyno must be making 185-190whp, not the normal 175whp.
@copperkeyracing6167 Thanks for your input. My RSX has a K24A2 short block, mild cams, and bolt-ons including race headers and tune. Last time at the dyno I saw 237 WHP. When I asked Bisimoto about the effectiveness of a larger TB with a K24, he recommended I test the Intake for a "vacuum". 70mm was the largest I would get, although your recommendation about enlarging the stock one may be perfect for my application (if I even could see a benefit at all)
@DC5Brandon First of all, by a "vaccum," he meant that he feels you may have a leak in the intake manifold. Either a gasket or a line. You could do a leak test using smoke... but that may be too involved unless you can definitely hear it, but just can't find it any other way. Next, the throttlebody isn't what's holding you back. Not without high compression pistons, aka a built motor, does a throttlebody really affect things. If anything, it will give you 1-2hp as has been shown by reputable throttlebody tests. Stock is just slightly smaller than optimal, and going up 3mm will put you in the goldilocks zone (not too big, not too small) of what a stock block can make use of. The question would be which do you have of the following (in order of importance): 1. What intake? CAI of 3" is best (cold, meaning the filter is in the bumper area, not under the hood) 2. What race header? 3. What tires do you have? Are they pig heavy because those can take away as much as 10whp 4. Do you have a thermal gasket, and is it properly set up to isolate the heat from the engine from the intake manifold 5. What wheels do you have? 6. What intake manifold 7. What exhaust do you have? Size, transition from header to exhaust, and mandrel bent or not matters Lastly, mild cams won't give you anything, but hopefully, they can give the equivalent power as the itr/z1/06-08TSX cams... even the best cams give a trade off of losing power in one area only to add power to another, and then at most, and if you're lucky, 7hp over the best stock cams. Absolute last thing... 237whp is very very respectable on a stock block. If 237whp is on a properly reading dynojet, that is not reading high, like the one in the video, then you are in very good shape. The record is 245whp on a factory cams stock block 04-05-TSX-K24a2/k20z1/k20a2. That 8whp you're missing is most likely your header and tires. Headers at about $1700-$2000 will give you that last 5-7whp.
@copperkeyracing6167 Thanks again for the advice. While I haven't done the research on TB's, I know about all that other stuff you mentioned. I started modding in 2009 and I'm focusing more on aesthetics now. Having done a CAI and RBC, I never addressed the TB in between. Seemed like something easy to address along with a tune if my car was already in the shop for something else. I know it wouldn't be a substantial gain, but I felt my airflow may not be as efficient since I increased my displacement.
@DC5Brandon displacement alone doesn't change the amount of airflow/hp through the motor. Displacement and compression and rpms, changes it. So, if it's an 04-05 tsx motor, and any k20z1/a2/z3, the hp/flow is the same.
@@johnfuller5902 Frankenstein builds are the biggest misconception in the Honda community imo. The k24 head is just as good especially with 06+ cams. I have 2 side by side the port sizes are identical
@@turbone54i think john fuller was saying to use an A motor instead of a Z motor... uhh, unless its a k24Z7(not the best motor for anything), it's not the Z or A that makes a difference, nor what the question was.
@@turbone54as for the misconception, I totally agree. HUGE misconception. The bseries frankenstein was great for quick and dirty all motor builds with stock internals (b20 block that didn't come with vtec, and then you put a vtec head on it). It doesn't transfer over to kseries, because we already have the biggest block, k24, with vtec out of any 04-08 TSX.... with that said, the 06-08 TSX motor is the king of kmotors for all motor.
Personally, I would go with a k20z3/z1/a2 for boost because a k24 will limit your ability to use the longer gears provided by a quick and simple EP3 gearset. If you are going to spend thousands on all new gears, then a k24 might be ok, but you are limiting your gear selection abilities.
It's an 05-06 KPro w/harness... which utilizes an 02-04 RSX-S ECU converted internally to work with the 05-06, and then a jumper wiring harness to reroute the signals into proper positions, and then an 02-04 RSX-S primary 02 sensor, which is a factory wideband sensor, instead of the aftermarket failure prone wideband and sensors.
A stock 05-06 RSX-S must be making 185-190whp on this dyno, as I'm used to seeing a stock 05-06 puts down 175whp... and with full boltons, with the lightest flywheel, the lightest wheels, and tires, the record is 70hp gain, for a total of 245whp... yet this car has pig heavy stock 21.5lb wheels, don't know the tires or flywheel, there are better headers, and I don't see a thermal/Hondata gasket. With those additional mods, I can see the car gaining another 20hp, and come out reading 257whp... obviously that's not possible. So yeah, this is a high reading dyno, because with the mods it has, it's not possible to have over 230whp (even if it has the lightest flywheel and lightest tires).
@yukonstriker1703 I'd also expect closer to 225whp k20a2=165whp bone stock K20z1=175whp bone stock K20A(JDM-Type-R)=180whp bone stock K20z3=180whp bone stock (has a self adjusting computer that auto tunes at full throttle while the others do not; they all adjust at idle and part throttle though) On a correctly running dynojet
@@TrichbeeTTechnically it depends what a stock 05-06 RSX-S makes on his dyno. I'm guessing 185-190whp from the mods and gains this car has. Which is about 50hp gain... then, you have to decide which crank hp nunbers are you going to go with, 210hp rating for 05, or 201hp rating for 06... which means 251-260hp... Yeah, you're right though, I would go with the lower number, about 250hp
The factory fuel system has a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump assembly, and a fuel pressure damper on the factory fuel rail... if you delete those, then yes, you will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (FPR). You can drop in any size injectors, but your limit will be the fuel pump (at about 300whp all motor), and then eventually the fuel lines (at about 400whp all motor, which would be a pretty insane motor)... and when you redo the fuel lines is when you will need to toss the factory FPR setup, and the entire fuel system, except the tank, technically.
More fuel capacity doesn't mean you make more power. It's like saying using continual buckets of water will make your car cleaner vs a hose. You might be able to wash more/bigger cars, but all you need is a hose for an RSX. As for E85, it's a really good cleaner for when pump has left behind lots of octane robbing carbon deposits. On stock 11:1 compression, and naturally aspirated, there is no gain using higher octane fuel like race gas or e85... you do lose power if the car has lots of octane robbing carbon buildup... so, you aren't actually seeing gain, you are recouping what you lost. This motor seems plenty healthy with such low mileage.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
That VTEC crossover never gets old 😊👍🏾
Type S let’s go
Would love to see you overlay the log on these pulls to see afrs and duty cycles. ✅🙏🔥
Thanks again nick! The car abosutley rips now haha. Can't wait to bring it back and go for some better numbers!
Hey bro. I'm local to you with the same setup on my 06 rsx. We should meet up 😈
That's a bad boy right there people forget the Rsx Type S doesn't weigh anything so that what made them fast back in day and this one a lot of people will be surprised how it moves
Awesome numbers. Have a black RSX typeS just like that.
Damn those numbers are insane!
Nice numbers for FBO K20
Setup like mine on ep3. Well done numbers!
Loving all of the content Nick 👍
💯👍
What was the temperature/humidity during these runs?
Is that catch can I see? If so what is the purpose of that catch can?
There is no actual purpose except for looks on a Naturally Aspirated car... unless the motor is very very ill, which this one does not seem to be. I've run an oil catch can on these RSX-Ss, and the motors have little to no blowby... once you increase the pressure onto the piston rings with boost, an oil catch can is a good idea... but also not extremely necessary by any measure, unless over 20psi and on aftermarket pistons. You could get by without one... as always, oil catch cans are for looks and very little more, and this is coming from experience and Engineering knowledge. Simply a seafoam steam cleaning once a year will tell you how much build up you have accumulated, and on these, even boosted, there is very little. I don't waste my time with oil catch cans, unless as I mentioned with aftermarket pistons and over 20psi. Forged/aftermarket pistons have greater clearances than stock pistons, which you will actually hear when running them. More gap+more boost=more blowby=need for oil catch can
Havent seen the eddie current absorber since last year. Did it go out? Or just made more room?
It sounds so good. I don't understand why the k series gets so much hate for way they sound.
Nobody hates k series sound lol
I think he means muscle car owners... and it's called envy in reality.
Hi Nick! A question.. Does the VTEC cam lobe remain until the limiter or at high revs do you have to switch back to the low cam lobe to be safe?
VTEC is on till redline. VTEC is not the same as cam angles, which Nick talked about. Cam Angles=VTC, and all engines with iVTEC have that. VTEC is for high RPMs to make power, and switched off on low RPMs to not give that lope sound that V8s with cam(s) have. Not in VTEC= better for fuel economy. In VTEC= better for power. Low RPM flow matches the cams not being in VTEC, while high RPM flow matches the cams being in VTEC. They go together.
I've got an 04 Type S. Is this 05 throttle by wire or cable? If it was cable, did the owner do a cruise control delete by changing to a 70mm TB? I can't find a larger TB that lets me retain CC for a throttle-by-cable setup. Hybrid Racing made one 13 years ago, but quit right before I started my build. I thought I read on a forum someone using a Mustang TB too. Anyone got any ideas?
It's cable driven as all RSXs are. There are no aftermarket throttlebodies that allow cruise control... because in reality, you don't need an aftermarket throttlebody unless you have a built engine making 90-100hp more than stock... the stock throttlebody on RSX-Ss is 62.5mm, and boring them out to 66mm is more than plenty. Look up king motorsports to get it done for $150.
Going to 70mm is just barely not too big to cause a FBO RSX-S to lose power by going too large. So, in essence, he is ready to go with a built motor for that size throttlebody, or at minimum, aftermarket cams (which even the best only give 3-7whp over the stock z1/itr cams).
For reference, a stock 05-06 puts down 175whp, and with full boltons, with the lightest flywheel, the lightest wheels, and tires, the record is 70hp gain, for a total of 245whp... this car has pig heavy stock 21lb wheels, don't know the tires or flywheel, there are better headers, and I don't see a thermal/Hondata gasket. With those additional mods, I can see the car gaining another 20hp... yeah, this is a high reading dyno, because it's impossible to have over 230whp with the mods it has (even if it has the lightest flywheel and lightest tires).... therefore, a stock 05-06 RSX-S on this dyno must be making 185-190whp, not the normal 175whp.
@copperkeyracing6167 Thanks for your input. My RSX has a K24A2 short block, mild cams, and bolt-ons including race headers and tune. Last time at the dyno I saw 237 WHP. When I asked Bisimoto about the effectiveness of a larger TB with a K24, he recommended I test the Intake for a "vacuum". 70mm was the largest I would get, although your recommendation about enlarging the stock one may be perfect for my application (if I even could see a benefit at all)
@DC5Brandon
First of all, by a "vaccum," he meant that he feels you may have a leak in the intake manifold. Either a gasket or a line. You could do a leak test using smoke... but that may be too involved unless you can definitely hear it, but just can't find it any other way.
Next, the throttlebody isn't what's holding you back. Not without high compression pistons, aka a built motor, does a throttlebody really affect things. If anything, it will give you 1-2hp as has been shown by reputable throttlebody tests. Stock is just slightly smaller than optimal, and going up 3mm will put you in the goldilocks zone (not too big, not too small) of what a stock block can make use of.
The question would be which do you have of the following (in order of importance):
1. What intake? CAI of 3" is best (cold, meaning the filter is in the bumper area, not under the hood)
2. What race header?
3. What tires do you have? Are they pig heavy because those can take away as much as 10whp
4. Do you have a thermal gasket, and is it properly set up to isolate the heat from the engine from the intake manifold
5. What wheels do you have?
6. What intake manifold
7. What exhaust do you have? Size, transition from header to exhaust, and mandrel bent or not matters
Lastly, mild cams won't give you anything, but hopefully, they can give the equivalent power as the itr/z1/06-08TSX cams... even the best cams give a trade off of losing power in one area only to add power to another, and then at most, and if you're lucky, 7hp over the best stock cams.
Absolute last thing... 237whp is very very respectable on a stock block. If 237whp is on a properly reading dynojet, that is not reading high, like the one in the video, then you are in very good shape. The record is 245whp on a factory cams stock block 04-05-TSX-K24a2/k20z1/k20a2. That 8whp you're missing is most likely your header and tires. Headers at about $1700-$2000 will give you that last 5-7whp.
@copperkeyracing6167 Thanks again for the advice. While I haven't done the research on TB's, I know about all that other stuff you mentioned. I started modding in 2009 and I'm focusing more on aesthetics now. Having done a CAI and RBC, I never addressed the TB in between. Seemed like something easy to address along with a tune if my car was already in the shop for something else. I know it wouldn't be a substantial gain, but I felt my airflow may not be as efficient since I increased my displacement.
@DC5Brandon displacement alone doesn't change the amount of airflow/hp through the motor. Displacement and compression and rpms, changes it. So, if it's an 04-05 tsx motor, and any k20z1/a2/z3, the hp/flow is the same.
hello nick. would you personally use a k20z3 or k24a2 for turbo build?
I think the K20/4As do better with boost? I might be wrong tho. I just know people do Frankenstein builds on either of them
@@johnfuller5902 Frankenstein builds are the biggest misconception in the Honda community imo. The k24 head is just as good especially with 06+ cams. I have 2 side by side the port sizes are identical
@@turbone54i think john fuller was saying to use an A motor instead of a Z motor... uhh, unless its a k24Z7(not the best motor for anything), it's not the Z or A that makes a difference, nor what the question was.
@@turbone54as for the misconception, I totally agree. HUGE misconception. The bseries frankenstein was great for quick and dirty all motor builds with stock internals (b20 block that didn't come with vtec, and then you put a vtec head on it). It doesn't transfer over to kseries, because we already have the biggest block, k24, with vtec out of any 04-08 TSX.... with that said, the 06-08 TSX motor is the king of kmotors for all motor.
Personally, I would go with a k20z3/z1/a2 for boost because a k24 will limit your ability to use the longer gears provided by a quick and simple EP3 gearset. If you are going to spend thousands on all new gears, then a k24 might be ok, but you are limiting your gear selection abilities.
what ecu did they use
Kpro with a prb from a 02-04
It's an 05-06 KPro w/harness... which utilizes an 02-04 RSX-S ECU converted internally to work with the 05-06, and then a jumper wiring harness to reroute the signals into proper positions, and then an 02-04 RSX-S primary 02 sensor, which is a factory wideband sensor, instead of the aftermarket failure prone wideband and sensors.
A stock 05-06 RSX-S must be making 185-190whp on this dyno, as I'm used to seeing a stock 05-06 puts down 175whp... and with full boltons, with the lightest flywheel, the lightest wheels, and tires, the record is 70hp gain, for a total of 245whp... yet this car has pig heavy stock 21.5lb wheels, don't know the tires or flywheel, there are better headers, and I don't see a thermal/Hondata gasket. With those additional mods, I can see the car gaining another 20hp, and come out reading 257whp... obviously that's not possible. So yeah, this is a high reading dyno, because with the mods it has, it's not possible to have over 230whp (even if it has the lightest flywheel and lightest tires).
237whp with these bolt on's does see a bit high.
I'd expect closer to 225whp.
K20A/K20Z3 generally dyno 170-180whp bone stock..
@yukonstriker1703
I'd also expect closer to 225whp
k20a2=165whp bone stock
K20z1=175whp bone stock
K20A(JDM-Type-R)=180whp bone stock
K20z3=180whp bone stock (has a self adjusting computer that auto tunes at full throttle while the others do not; they all adjust at idle and part throttle though)
On a correctly running dynojet
237whp or 237hp to the crank?
He said 237 whp, you're looking at 250hp ishhh to the crank
@@TrichbeeTTechnically it depends what a stock 05-06 RSX-S makes on his dyno. I'm guessing 185-190whp from the mods and gains this car has. Which is about 50hp gain... then, you have to decide which crank hp nunbers are you going to go with, 210hp rating for 05, or 201hp rating for 06... which means 251-260hp...
Yeah, you're right though, I would go with the lower number, about 250hp
@@copperkeyracing6167Hella trolling the comments 😅
I need a Skunk 2 Header for my FG2. She’s only got 21k Miles on her.
Vibrant made the best header on the FG2 back in the day. Good luck.
Hi nick, think I can get away with running 1000cc injectors on a FBO k20 with no in line fuel pressure regulator?
Yeah you can was running e85 on 1000cc injectors FBO
The factory fuel system has a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump assembly, and a fuel pressure damper on the factory fuel rail... if you delete those, then yes, you will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (FPR). You can drop in any size injectors, but your limit will be the fuel pump (at about 300whp all motor), and then eventually the fuel lines (at about 400whp all motor, which would be a pretty insane motor)... and when you redo the fuel lines is when you will need to toss the factory FPR setup, and the entire fuel system, except the tank, technically.
Had similar bolts on but with 1000c injectors and e85 made 240
More fuel capacity doesn't mean you make more power. It's like saying using continual buckets of water will make your car cleaner vs a hose. You might be able to wash more/bigger cars, but all you need is a hose for an RSX.
As for E85, it's a really good cleaner for when pump has left behind lots of octane robbing carbon deposits. On stock 11:1 compression, and naturally aspirated, there is no gain using higher octane fuel like race gas or e85... you do lose power if the car has lots of octane robbing carbon buildup... so, you aren't actually seeing gain, you are recouping what you lost.
This motor seems plenty healthy with such low mileage.