2002 Nissan Xterra Knock Sensor relocation WITHOUT cutting wires!
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- Опубликовано: 2 апр 2021
- Save $2,000+ in repairs with this unique knock sensor relocation plug n' play method which eliminates the need to splice or cut any wires.
Tips:
-try this method before cutting into the wire harness. It will save you time, money, and will be a cleaner looking repair. Not only will you have a better long-term electrical connection, but it will also make it more likely to pass inspection during a smog test
-buy an aftermarket sensor (you will save $270+ vs. buying it from the dealer)
-tie a string/rope to the electrical connector after unplugging it. This will make it easier to fish out the wire harness in order for it to be long enough to reach the new location
-make sure to find a longer 10mm bolt and have it on hand or else your won't be able to finish this in one shot
This is for vehicles with the common 3.3L V6 JDM VG33E engine such as the 96-04 Nissan Xterra, Nissan Frontier, and Nissan Pathfinder. - Авто/Мото
You sir just saved me from not using my car this winter
Worked great! Mine did not break off like his did but used a tiny screwdriver to snap the fitting on the top. You can see it with a well placed flashlight.
Thanks👍
Thanks for the video! I was able to use the factory harness, and the check engine light has not returned (yet).
Thanks man I'll try this as soon as it warms up a bit 😎👊Great video brother
I like this method better! I will give it a try. Thanks! 👍🏻🙏🏻😀
My hands were way too meaty to be able to do this and my frustration I gave it a big tug then, snapped clean off! I guess I'm lucky I got an Arizona X and the connector was brittle enough to do it, but all I had to do was pop off what was left off the old knock sensor, plug in my new one, then bolt it down! No code!
Yes, i believe the knock sensor is in the same location on the SC model
Thank you for your great help! I'm going to be doing this on a 2003 Xterra as soon as it comes in, had to do crankshaft sensor last week and messed up the wires for knock sensor unfortunately
Captains log. 40 minutes in, my hand has undergone some serious conditioning and I’m just barely starting to feel the tippy tip of the knock sensor wiring connector. So close! Taking a lil break now. PSA- that coolant pipe you use as your landmark is friggin hot, my engines been off for two hours and it’s still burnin my hand
…aight I’m done for the night, think I’ll go back at it next week with a mirror and something to press on the connector
@@drivefastandtakechances1112 Any luck? updates?
@@SeismicSales 😂
After my hand and arm got cut up from hours of trying to get the stupid clip off I decided to just cut the wires and re wire it. Good luck! My forearm was to big, maybe you’ll have better luck🤷♂️
How did you get you hand back there to unplug??????
It's was really helpful thank you so much
I went legit... my dad and I replaced it on its original spot, only thing that cost me was the knock sensor, fuel injector gaskets and the manifold gaskets
It only took 6 hours also! 😂
i wanted to replace my legit, but i was afraid that a bolt would break, or a screw would strip. but i think i might be going back to do it the right way, since i have to replace an injector, and might end up replacing all of them, plus the valve cover gaskets. i would be almost there to replace the knock sensor. time is my only issue at this point.
@@raiderman28 yeah, the bolts that hold the manifold are the ones to be careful for, if you can't go to a junkyard and get you extra bolts and you get to see how they feel when taking them off. For the injectors make sure you don't loose the washers and spacers where the bolts are at.
Damn man no way possible with my ape hands.
I was able to reach down from behind the engine with my long fingers and was able to disconnect it with no damage. Relocated it and done. 10 minutes. Lucky me.
tell me something, do they tell you well after putting the sensor in another place?
What did you remove to do it?
I changed it by disassembling everything but the problem always comes out ☹️
@@NoticiasF The plug portion of the knock sensor. You have to have long nimble fingers.
Great joy
I was able to disconnect mine from underneath the vehicle. You do have to have long arms. But mines fell apart, so i ended up putting connectors on the ends.
I looked underneath the vehicle but I can't get my hand through the gap. Would you mind explaining how you did it?
I have very long arm. Its above the transmission housing under lower plenum. I got my arm up there and barely was able to get my hand in there and it almost got stuck. The plug basically fell apart when i tugged on it.
@@raiderman28 lucky for you. I can't reach it from the bottom. I can barely reached the back end of the clip from the top with my left hand. After many hours of no success, I decide to create a tool to assist me. I posted a video below to help others
ruclips.net/video/X1BsUh4WmuA/видео.html
What are the results after replacing/relocating the knock sensor? Also I know you Bought an aftermarket knock sensor but was it stated to be for the 3.3? Some have used a knock sensor for a 4 cylinder maxima. If yours worked could you add a link for it in your description?
It cleared my Check Engine Knock Sensor code. And yes it stated the the knock sensor fits the 3.3L VG33E engine.
Here is the link for the one I got:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P1DFWJK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Can’t remember where i bought mines, but i did relocate it and it worked great. Check engine light never came back on. i did use one off of a Maxima as per a video i saw how to relocate the knock sensor.
Do you have the link for the original video you mentioned
Great question!
I'm going to try it this weekend if the parts arrive, seems simple enough. My 3.3 Nissan is stalling at stop signs and this is the only codes I am getting. Anyone know what the symptoms are for a bad knock sensor? I had the same codes an a 350 Chevy that kept going into reduced power. Change the sensor and it didn't fix it.
I've got the exact same thing, runs perfect on gas though. (Dual fuel). Did you try this out?
Thanks for the video going to try it before I take the car apart 👍👍
Did you use the actual knock sensor for the Xterra for your replacement or did you have to buy a different type of knock sensor
I bought an aftermarket knock sensor compatible with the Xterra. If you buy the OEM knock sensor from the the dealer it will cost a whopping $280
Will the check engine light turn off when you replace the knock sensor or do you have to hook up it to a diagnostic box? thanks
If anything when you do replace it and the engine light doesn't go away.. there could be other problems. But if not you can just clear the code yourself or a shop can. And in theory if you did it righ, the light will never come back
Luckily, my check engine might automatically turned off, but in some cases you may have to clear it with a scan tool or if you don't have one, you can disconnect the battery, put the key in the on position and press the horn a few times which will discharge any reserve eléctricity/memory stored in the ECU
Has the feel sensor been placed below the collector for the print, putting on top of something change? or it works in the same way in the advance of the stitch.
I can easily do the splice like everybody else but now I'm trying to unplug it like you did and I honestly can't even touch it with my finger I saw it with my probe camera..... You got to be a ninja cuz I can't even get to the end of the wire to even touch the connector.... I'm going to try one more time to see if I can get in there I'd rather just unplug. But I got to be honest I might wind up having to cut my wires.
Yea it is a tight squeeze and you will cut up your hand a bit..I was barely able to touch the end of the connector, but if u can do just that, then hopefully you can apply enough pressure to break off the connector like I did. If you can't, then try finding a pair of smaller hands 🤷♂️
Just do a nice job splicing, it's not the end of the world. lol
A little solder and heat shrink goes a long way.
How does relocating the sensor pick up any knock if it’s not in the motor and is now sitting on top of the intake manifold?
This is by far the quickest and most common location for relocating the knock sensor on the VG33E motor. It may not be ideal enough for detecting mild knocking but it will still detect severe knocking. It is also ideal enough to clear a knock sensor code which will set on your Check Engine light and prevent your car from passing smog. The other option is to pay a mechanic $500-$2,000 to replace the knock sensor in the original location which like I said is a very expensive time-consuming repair.
@@TheBeardofReason I'd just listen for a ping (on an old vehicle anyways ) and retard the timing a couple degrees if I heard anything. Thankfully these still had adjustable timing.
@@jskyg68 how would you retard the timing manually if ticking is detected??
@@jarrlan loosen the distributor lock down bolt and rotate the distributor clockwise/counter clockwise slightly.
I believe it's counter clockwise on the Nissan engine. (I could be wrong, check to make sure)
So the old sensor is left in its old location no need to remove it at all? Thanks
Yup! No need to remove old sensor because it's now disconnected and non-functional.
Does this work for the SC vehicle??
Have you tried it yet ?
@@nicksalter2200 its a fair question to ask before possibly destroying your vehicle
FYI - this got rid of my code but smog shop said it’s an automatic fail with this knock sensor relocation. It’s considered an emissions system alteration. ☹️
You must have gone to a very strict smog station and/or a place where they wanna sell you a repair job to undoing the knock sensor relocation. Most people get away with it because most shops don't consider this a direct modification which will increase harmful emissions. If you continue driving a car with an engine that's knocking bad enough to fail emissions, then no need to worry about it polluting the Earth cause it will die very soon.
Are you located in cali ?
I agree with the creator. This has to be just a strict state or shop. Most shops find ways to take your money anyways I would get another opinion on that!
Why cant you just cut the wire to the sensor, and use a new sub harness to the new location?
This is simply an alternate method to save time/effort and leave the original wire harness/connector intact if you don't wanna deal cutting/splicing/crimping
Where does this knock sensor located in the xterra Nissan 2002
Seriously. Watch the video. Pay attention
Doing this "repair" is the same as pulling your check engine light bulb. If fixes the symptom but doesn't fix the problem.
The only time I WOULDN'T recommend this is if you vehicle has a knocking problem...then the new relocation of the knock sensor won't be ideal. As for pulling the bulb 💡 for your check engine light, that is different cause most smog places will detect that and fail you. This relocation however will enable you to pass smog.
When capturing video always hold the camera horizontal. Every TV screen, monitor screen, computer screen, movie theater screen, are orientated horizontally. Your video the camera is vertical, thus the left one-third, and right one-third of the screen is cut off. Your video is a stick video, tall and narrow thus appears. Watching It is similar to looking through a tight keyhole or wearing horse blinders.
Thanks for this advice🙏
I'm very new to all this
I was told by a mechanic that there is a sub wire, so It must change that as well.!!!!
What do you mean "sub wire"? My knock sensor code never came back on after this repair and I didn't have to change any wire....
That's what he said
@@mr.skeptical3071 sounds like fraud
@@mr.skeptical3071 There is no such thing as a sub wire. However a mechanic should always only offer to replace this correctly. So stay off the DIY forums bub