How to test a knock sensor (P0328) - Nissan
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2024
- In this video I will show you how to quickly test a knock sensor circuit. This procedure applies to any knock sensor that has a bias voltage sent to it and is not unique to Nissan. Other manufactures are doing the same thing, making the circuit very easy to test.
Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 10 pages 6-7
Symptoms
- check engine light with a P0328 trouble code
- poor fuel economy (2-3 mpg less than normal)
Fix
- replace knock sensor
Tests shown
- how to test a knock sensor circuit for opens and shorts
- how to measure the resistance of a knock sensor
Tools used
- scan tool
- digital multimeter
- backprobing tools
Playlist
- (Chapters 9, 10 and 11) The 5v Reference and Signal Circuit Quick Tests
• (Chapters 9, 10 and 11...
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
Thank you for this video. I don't have the advanced skill you have, but it is nice to be able to go to a technician and not rely on blind faith alone.
Paul you are honestly one of the best teachers and technician I have ever seen. I have also been in the field for 20 or so years and I also own a repair shop . I bought the new snap on verus edge scanner, it's a great tool and you use it like a pro. watching your videos always brings back my passion for why I even got into car diagnostics and repair. I wish there were more techs like you out there to give us hard working car guys a good name. I really enjoy watching your videos and I am seriously considering your premium channel and I will be purchasing your book. love it man great job. you are now my internet mentor.
Regards Jim
+545454jrc thanks so much Jim. I really appreciate it. With the book you get a free month of SD premium.
You will not be disappointed.
Thanks again
Paul
JRC54 o
This was well done. Great, relevant info. A bit of advice, though: one of the first things they taught me in USAF maintenance was "Watches and rings!" Take them off before they become a liability and you get injured or shocked. People instructing others should demonstrate and promote such simple safety measures.
Great video. About to replace knock sensor on '03 xterra. I've already done a fuel pressure regulator (FRP)on a '98 and the '03 is exactly the same intake manifold setup. Depending on how concerned the owner is about having the knock in the proper location will determine if intake manifold comes off or gets relocated.
If anybody if suffering from stalling and no start conditions and has replaced distributor or coil then it probably the FRP. They are known to fail. I checked every wire from sensor to ECU on the '98. The fuel flow out of fuel line was good. I set up a rubber hose into gas can. The owner said screw it and bought the FPR because he was having the problem for 2 months (got lucky $50 Ebay real Nissan nib). Started right up no problems and haven't heard from him since.
Also unique to the Nissan is that the P0328 will not trigger the MIL. There is info from Nissan for that. I didn't even believe it at first. Rodents love the wires under those intake manifolds and they're are best employees sometimes, LOL. A cheap trick is to relocate the knock sensor to the upper manifold where there is a similar thread pitch. At least for testing purposes if the knock is causing drivabilty. Good video.
+M3CH4N1CT3CH I waisted some free time for weeks reading a forum about the relocate. I plan to do that first and see if it can really still see knock or not. I'm so going to go back to that forum, club frontier I think? I'll post this video and it'll have more complete information than in all the some 500 posts.
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols It will not sense knock the way it was designed to, and will also fail a lot of smog tests.
Oddly enough. Mk4 vw won’t set an MIL for knock codes either. Don’t know why, I’d imagine it would.
SD does it again! Nissan almost always buries there knock sensors which usually dont outlast the life of the car. What a PIA to replace a tiny sensor w/ one bolt. I had my son Ryan who was 8 yo at the time reach in under the manifold (with his small hands) on a "98 Maxima and replace it for me without removing the intake.. I posted a video on that one and it was the best $10 I ever paid him!! He doesn't charge much, says he's got low overhead. lol I'll post the link if anyone would like to see it. Take care Paul
+Ozzstar heck yea. Post it here. RUclips may spam it but I'll unlock it. Just post it once. If it doesn't go through and I'll handle it
+Ozzstar oh shoot, just read your comment. Deja vu
+Ozzstar That's awesome! On my Matco 1/4" electric ratchet tool review I pointed out that I need to do this job on my Nissan Frontier. I mentioned randomly that probably even little chinese hands (no offense offered) couldn't even reach it, but yeah, then it had me thinking of child labor! lol
what I was looking for! this isolated my problem down to the ks, just used a multimeter. Viva la youtube, thanks.
a bit confused tho: can I have a partially bad KS? w engine either idle or off, the back probe reads 4.8v disconnected and 3.6v connected-- so its not open but a bit above spec. When I alligator clip the pin I get 622k ohms, which again is just over spec. (strange since that should lover v...)
I get 2 generic P0328 B1 circuit KS codes w my innova after starting.
I went through this with my sister's Infiniti. All the tests pointed to a bad KS. Turned out to be a weak engine ground strap. The original knock sensor was bad because it would not pull down the circuit. When I plugged in the new one, it did. Thought it was a fix, but code came back a couple days later. Identifix Direct Hit helped me figure it out.
+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) good tip. Thank you!
Love the new LOGO symbol. Good luck to you and the family
+Tom A thanks man!
From what I remember, a knock sensor has a crystal in it that is tuned to the same frequency of detonation or much more deadlier pre-ignition knock. Ok, a full 5v+ shows right off that the circuit isn't broken, but the knock sensor hasn't initially dragged the voltage down from the start. My 2000 Ford has recently started pinging. I'll just wait for a P code to set, haha.
I've found when the KS on the Xterra or Frontier 3.3L fail.
It always easier to do the KS relocation instead of pulling the upper and lower intake manifolds.
+nightflyr1 I've never heard of a knock sensor relocation kit, what a great idea!
@@ScannerDanner If you relocate knock sensor, you will get the engine light to go out but your timing being adjusted by the knock sensor as you drive defeats the whole purpose of the sensor. It's where it is for a reason. Replace it and change the plugs while your at it. taking the intake off is the best way to replace that funky plug in the rear of engine up against the firewall. most people don't change that plug because it's very diffucult to get at it and worse to put another back in.
@@pcosta24 👍. Exactly my thoughts on tackling this issue which I have right now.
this design is very good
in Toyota this harness is very difficult to see and touch it
thanks Paul for your posting
So cool. I have this exact problem. I subscribe anyway, because as a professional you up my game, but you literally pulled back curtain on this one. I've never seen anyone cover this subject this accurately.
I was already certain about the high voltage getting through meaning the sensor was bad, but the fact you can tap it and see an AC voltage line go through the DC? That's gold!
I'd heard on modern sensors you can't just hit the engine anymore to see "knock", but it makes sense, it basically being a microphone that'll pick up other vibration, it's just that the PCM knows the difference between random vibration and knock, right?
So we can see the new one alive before putting the intake back on. THAT'S a verified repair then. :) Wouldn't want to do this job twice!
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols thanks so much for your encouragement
:)
ScannerDanner
Just read your description:
"Symptoms
- check engine light with a P0328 trouble code
- poor fuel economy (2-3 mpg less than normal)"
Oh my gosh. With how much I drive my truck, that's a BIG savings.
I need to stop being lazy and get out there and get it done.
I never used the ohm meter on my MODIS at work. Looks like it has the same connections up top. Thanks again!
Scanner danner, your the man, ner!
Excellent explanation and again, great organization in the description box. I can go to your book and reinforce your steps here, but I must admit, it's taking some practice. I lack experience so it's a "take two steps forward and one step back" process.
+wyattoneable Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I have about 75 of my old videos done now. If you sort my video list by oldest videos you will see them. I've also been changing the names to match better.
But I have kept the original name in the keywords for those of you with my paperbook that need to type in the title of a video to find it. Unlike the eBook that you just click the hyperlink
+ScannerDanner Outstanding!
My 2003 Frontier 2wd 3.3L V-6 broke down twice. Sometimes starts right up, other times crank no start. Pulled codes. First said multiple cylinder misfire with the P0328 code. Checked it running again. Back to back P0328 knock sensor circuit high input. I think I'm gonna change the knock sensor. Thanks for your video.
Also, I use my Mac Tools ET97 scanner. May not be the best, but it does some live stream. Good enough for this shade tree mechanic on a budget. LOL
leave the knock sensor code alone for now, it is NOT causing your problem. When it doesn't start, you need to find out what you are missing
@@ScannerDanner Oh wow. Thanks. I just bought this truck about a month ago. About to take it back to dealer and tell them to either fix it or cancel contract or get me another vehicle.
What was the problem on yoir 3.3l
It was a Nissan. That was the whole problem. No more Nissans or Hyundais in my driveway.
You are awesome teacher
Just what I needed!
Quick and simple, good work.
+daveS ministry thank you!
Hi Paul does the shield wire supply sensor ground or it grounded on engine block? We are normally test ground wire on pull down design? It's what you teach me on book an prem.channel??
Thanks Dan ! Eventually I want to get your book .
thank you!
Spot on. Thank you.
Had a mouse eat the wire off my knock sensor on my 03 Altima. Located under the IM like you mentioned, luckily my young son was able to get his hand in there to install a new one.
Nicely done, Paul.
+wysetech2000 thanks bro
Nice video as usual Paul.
thanks Paul Danner
Great video! Thanks so much. So I back probed my 2004 Xterra (Supercharged) and I'm getting 3.2V, knocking on the engine (on top of the supercharger/intake) doesn't seem to vary it at all... I'm getting the P038 (knock sensor circuit high) code. Looking at the FSM normal voltage should be 2.5V at idle if I understand correctly?
The edge looks awesome, we have the Verdict at our college but I don't think it came with the 15.4 upgrade. It doesn't appear to have sure track or anything, and won't even tell us what the DTC codes are !
+9freelandk so far so good. there are a few things I don't like but some of it is because I do videos.
There is no built in microphone so when I do a desktop recording it is hard to sync.
The stylus absolutely blows
It has no connection to the car which is great but not when you are mobile and need it for hours of use.
There is no hdmi or video output without buying a separate docking station (additional $300)
+ScannerDanner For some reason we have the optional docking base but due to the cost of this equipment it all has to be securely locked away after every lesson, so we don't really get great use out of it. It's a nice feature to have though and just use the dock especially for all day indoor use, via the old 15pin VGA to a 40" screen for graphs etc...
ScannerDanner
I know this is an old subject ,but just watched i and dont understand the conclusion from voltage test ,instruction says 2-3 volts with KOER, test showed nearly 5 volts and faulty sensor was diagnosed from this 5 volt reading with out engine running. What did I miss ?
you can also ohm it as well. oh you did do the ohms test lol. sorry spoke too soon
learn so much thank you
thx for the kind knowledge shared...is the genysis evo 5.0 will work the same...thx
How to splice knock sensor cable mine was chopped and spliced only the center wire but no ground (like coaxial cable)
you have to keep the shield isolated from the signal wire. Connect them separately and isolate them from each other and you should be fine
Great video. Question:. I see people all on RUclips replacing knock sensors and assuming they are bad. But how often does the check engine light come on because they are actually doing their job and detecting a knock, or ping?
They do not set codes for doing there job, make sense?
@@ScannerDanner Yes, thank you. I thought the knock sensor changed the ignition timing to help prevent damage and then set a code so the driver would be aware of the issue. I didnt realize a code was set only if a sensor/wiring fault is detected. Thanks.
It does do that, but will not code for activity, only when there is a fault as you stated.
@@ScannerDanner Got it, thank you!
So i have a nissan 350z and have code p0327 and p0328. I replaced the knock sensor still same code I did resistance test was 420 on sensor and 280 at end of sub harness. What can it be its driving me crazy and 4.24v going to sensor.
Thanks for share =P
good video i share your video on my facebook thank
Hi. I just bought a 2004 4x4 Xterra and there is a soft code, no CEL, for P0328 knock sensor. The mechanic said this is commonplace on Nissans and that replacement wouldn't resolve it. Please advise 🙏 thank you.
Santiago, per the Nissan Factory Service Manual, DTC 0328 does NOT trigger the MIL (same as CEL) to illuminate. Specifically, Nissan engineering chose to NOT illuminate the MIL if DTC 0328 is encountered.
By definition, DTC 0328 advises technicians of "KNOCK SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH-INPUT;" meaning ONLY that "an excessively high-voltage from the knock sensor is being sent to the ECM."
The general do-it-yourselfer is under the impression DTC 0328 will load AND ILLUMINATE THE MIL if pre-ignition or knock is detected by the ECM...that is completely wrong!
P.S. If your Xterra has only stored DTC 0328 (meaning NO other codes that would trigger MIL illumination) and ALL emissions readiness monitors are "OK," you will pass a standardized government emissions test.
I replaced knock sensor and wire in original location same code. Did relocation, same code. Mechanic said on past similar vehicle. That code if not taken care of in timely manner can damage the computers ks circuit. When taken to emmisions past without issue tho, which was good and some much needed attention to underside of manifold components.
Great video Mr scanner as always, one question? Can I use a multimeter? Since that all I have. Thank you and cheers from Ontario ca
Yeah should be the same just without the graph
nice new logo
I'm trying to test a 2017 VW knock sensor with both knock sensor codes for low circuit voltage. Its a 3 wire. Shield ground is good, but the + and - for the knock sensor are both showing 0.8 volts for both sensors at the harness unplugged. There's no information on these knock sensor that I could find on Indentifix or Mitchell. I did the knock test unplugged at the KS side and it barely put out anything 0.5 volts.
I assume you have knock sensor codes? Post this to my forum, I'm sure we can help you. It's free to join. Hope to see you there.
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
I have 04 Xterra 70k miles only , I have code P0328 my car run fine and smooth but the problem is when I shift to D or R it won't do anything it won't move at all , is this code related to this problem or I'm dealing with something eles is bad knock sensor can make the car not to move at all ?
ignore the knock sensor code, separate issue for sure
Really helpful.👌
Love it
3.3? i have one of those in the driveway, knock sensor code was always there, sensor was split when i finally got in there 6 years later lol. it never threw a CEL, just was listed under fault codes if you plugged in and read them.
+Rhage73 Yeah, I didn't notice either until I set a code for replacing the fuel pump, but not the fuel sending unit. My Nissan Frontier sat for 3 years, so everything was rusted in there. It'd have taken days to get the sending unit, but I had to move across country. A year later and I still haven't gotten around to it...just fill up with gas more often, lol.
Still, it needs to be replaced as it tells the PCM the fuel temperature and makes fuel trims be more accurate for the best use of fuel.
Thanks for my listening to my side note waffling. :)
Back on the knock sensor, did you read in the description that it can get you 2-3 MPG, or at least that it can lose you that? I need that back! 18-19 MPG on the freeway instead of 15-16 is a BIG deal.
i was getting 19, and then when i changed the knock i was getting 16. i put on manual hubs got back up to 17. pretty sure it was easier to wind the truck up past 3500 is why my MPG went down, because my daily is a mix of city and hwy and its a 5speed. =) 210k on it still fires right up love them older 3.3 / 3.0 Yours may be a 3.5 if it is newer than 99.
I can't remember the size of my engine. V6 2004. I used always remember stats like that. Guess I care more about function and results.
How can you condemn the knock sensor that quick without testing wire from your 8 pin harness to knock sensor? I am dealing with P0330 on 02 sienna. I read that most of time it is the knock sensor harness 80% of the time due to heat over time on wire. Several Toyota techs said that it is almost always that wire from the heat.
Next step is to pull the intake. As a tech in the field, it is absolutely getting a new knock sensor. If you find wiring damage inside, it is still getting a new knock sensor and now a quick wiring repair. And in my experience, when you get this far, it is the knock sensor that has failed. One one time I can think of a wiring issue.
So my 04 Xterra is getting the knock sensor code. It starts stumbling over 3k rpm. When I test the voltage like in the video I get 2.4v. Does this mean my sensor is good?
Ignore the k.s. code for your stumbling above 3000rpm issue. They are not related
easy way to check it pull the fuel pump relay with the car running. knock sensor 100%.
Nice 👍👍
my wife had an xterra with a knock sensor code but it never turned on the light. I can see why Nissan did this after seeing how buried it is
Was it 2000 model by chance? Ii have one that didn't trigger the check engine light as well
I'm a noob with a voltmeter. What setting do I set it to in order to do this test? Just using a freebie harbor freight unit...
Voltmeter set to a 20v scale to measure key on signal voltage, plugged and and unplugged while backprobing the connector with your red lead, and black lead to a known good ground.
Good video!! I replaced knock sensor. Wire was cut.
I spliced into it and bought the connector, new knock sensor and still getting code p0328? Any info is much appreciated. .
Yes, that wire was a thicker wire right? It is actually two wires in parts of that harness.
The outer wire is a shield wire and the inner wire is the signal. You didn't make them all one did you?
@@ScannerDanner No sir Thank you for replying. I made 2 wires as the connector came with 2. I used the insulated wire for the green wire from the connector and the wire in the middle to the red from the connector.
I did so much research before I put everything back together.
Thanks again for your reply.
@@TyRC12 okay, with the key on, disconnect the KS connector and give me a voltage measurement on the signal wire, I believe it should read close to 5v, maybe 7 (subaru used 7), then plug it in and give me a reading on that signal wire, it should be about 2.5 v
Thank you so much. I am really thinking about taking it apart again. I was thinking of relocating the ks?
I believe the camshaft seal is leaking also. Thought it was the valve cover. But its leaking just underneath it. P0152 code I believe its for the O2 sensor. I changed it already also. I am getting codes that I already cleared? Changed the parts already. Thanks for any info. I appreciate your knowledge.
@@ScannerDanner Also I think I just put the red wire to the center white wire. Then the outter wire to the green. Im wondering if I have the wires on the wrong side since your saying signal wire. I dont believe I looked for signal side. I just thought red wire would mean power. smh. So I need to figure out which sode is signal on ks then wire it to the whire wire. If I did get lucky and wire it right. I will take voltage to see if Im getting signal. Thanks for the knowledge
Is there any danger of shorting the signal wire to the shield when back probing the wire?
If you are backprobing a connector, no. If you are piercing the signal wire, yes, absolutely, you do NOT want to do this on a shielded circuit.
@@ScannerDanner Thanks,
I'm trying to visualize why it's not an issue. How is the shield grounded at the connector?
Good morning and thank you for another video. I have a question, we know this knock sensor is bad because is open, is there another way this sensor will fail? Or what are the other condition a knock sensor will fail and what driveability issues besides a ck engine light will it cause?
+David Tapia I read the description and found my answer in the subaru knock sensor video, again thanks for the information. Have a nice weekend.
+David Tapia awesome thank you!
+David Tapia So, can you share with the rest of the class what you learned? :)
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols Is this a pop quiz? I could answer to go and see the video but I will tell you what I have learned. I learn the other way to test a knock sensor using a oscilloscope that is not open and about the bias voltage on the Subaru but I still have a question. Is there a driveability issue with a a open or shorted knock sensor? Maybe Mr. Danner or another student could help me. Thanks in advance and I hope I scored good in the pop quiz.
David Tapia There is a driveability issue with open or shorted knock sensors. Once the PCM knows it doesn't have this measure of protection it'll run a safer level of timing advance. Or a gentler tune if you will. When you get into the throttle there will be less hp.
I picked up from ScannerDanner's description that there can be 2-3 less MPG. One gentleman with the same engine in the comments said at first he got better gas mileage only to lose it because of how much easier it was to go above 3,500 RPM.
Did you learn anything else then? :)
Can't you remove the test lead unit from the back of that new verus ,isn't wireless also??
+Lee Rattle I don't think so, not sure, I'll check
+ScannerDanner I just had a look , Its a usb module you can unclip from the back of the unit, & attach a usb cable to give more distance from the working area , pitty not wireless
Hi I have question I have same truck and same code I change knock sensor and same code po328 comes up again what u think could be the problem causing ? Thank you
Did you ever fix this problem? Same problem here.
@@TyRC12 yes I had to buy oem knock sensor I buy aftermarket first it was waist of time then I got oem nissan knock sensor works great now but ur 1st sensor could be bad u can also then sensor with multimeter check videos on RUclips about knock sensor diagnoss.
Danner, i know this isn't related but was wondering if you know of a updated injector timer tool used for injector balancing. all i can find out there is the old otc one, thanks.
+Brian Ragland sorry man I do not
+Danner not a problem man, thanks anyways!!
I need information on Midtronics inTELLECT EXP 1000, scope operation for extended Diode patren
+doug johnson can't help you there bro sorry
Where do you connect the other lead if you are just using a plain ol' multimeter
exactly like the scope. Just think of the scope as a very fast voltmeter. The connections are the same
when the knock sensor going bad do they always throw a check engine light? ?
No mine didn't
hey scanner how test knock sensor on toyota avalon 2000 easy way
if your engine is knocking will it throw this code too?
From memory this was an electrical circuit code? So I'd say no, but I would be worried about the actual knocking more than the code if that makes sense?
@@ScannerDanner let me give a little context and update id love your expertise on this please.
i have a 92 nissan 240sx turbo,i have a lean idle/rich under boost issue,i found a good exhaust leak pre o2 which would explain my lean idle,i noticed i have a code for knock sensor and now thinking the lean idle caused the knock code,i think the knock code is pulling timing and adding fuel under boost causing my rich under boost condition so fixing the leak should solve everything does this sound like logical theory?
or im wrong and exhaust leaks pre o2 on turbo engines normally cause rich under boost conditions without knock code playing a role?
Do you like the Verus edge? I just got the solus edge, maybe I got the wrong one whats your thoughts?
Two different tools bro. The Solus doesn't have a scope.
Yes sir I know that I was referring to the scanner portion
Mr. Danner:
Is your textbook printed in color? How about the online textbook, is it in color?
+Dog Food the paper book is black and white the ebook is full color
i have always thought that knock sensors can be relocate with any problems proper fuel a must
they can be for sure. Especially in this application.
Now does this apply to the supercharged Xterra?
should be any different if it is a single wire knock sensor
@@ScannerDanner I found out it's exactly the same place. Still hell.
I think they sell a relocation kit believe it or not. Something to look into for you
bro i woud like to be taking lectures from u how do i get contacts
+jones chanda subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium
Hey man I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier Crew cab it’s a 3.3l and I have a light that is flashing which says service engine soon, it stays constant for a bit but then it starts to shiver under load and it starts flashing, ive been told it’s a injector but I’m not sure, can you please help me!
Can anyone give me a idea of how much this knock sensor is going to cost me to have replaced???
I think the intake has to come off to change it, so labor will be your biggest cost. However, I have heard that they make a knock sensor relocation kit, where you modify the existing wiring and bolt the new knock sensor up to a different location. Something to look into on this older model set up for sure!
What is the purpose on this knock sensor anyway?
it enables the engine computer to run an aggressive spark advance map. The knock sensor is basically a microphone and if the ECM "hears" a spark knock or pinging issue, it backs off the timing to correct it. With a knock sensor code, it is not uncommon for the ECM to run a less aggressive spark curve or map, resulting in less mpgs. Not sure you will feel a power difference though to be honest
Thanks for the info
Watt happen when knoc sensor its so hight..
Any chance shoot off car running..im replace maf running for wheal and 2 day coming same prolem letmenot please..tks not ligts on....2001 nissan ext 3.3 6 cil.
it will make it too sensitive and will be indicating a knock to the engine computer when there isn't one
Great video...I just subscribed to your channel. Thumbs up.Perhaps you can steer me in the right direction. My Nissan Frontier SE 2003 Crew Cab 3.3L is giving me a bit of a starting problem. It takes about 5 to 10 seconds to start. Then at other times, it starts instantly. No code showing. I hear the furl pump kick in and whirrs for about 3 or 4 seconds. Any suggestions?
I just uploaded a video on ScannerDanner Premium on your exact truck. These are known for distributor problems.
I seriously would like to open this for you for free but I can't easily. My suggestion is to subscribe for the 14 day free trial, then immediately cancel your subscription. You will still get the remainder of the 14 days and you won't have to worry about being charged. Yes, you'll still need to put in a credit card or paypal number but it is very secure (more so than even PayPal).
ruclips.net/video/4Vq8P3jbm4U/видео.html
Now I am not suggesting you go and run out and buy a new distributor. You could also have a fuel pressure problem. In which case, this playlist should help you identify that. (this is all on my free channel)
ruclips.net/p/PLAFYVCyenqcrstVqfSc1PCbQ1pebuNIO6
Hey I replace the sensor and stills give me the code
What is your voltage reading on the knock sensor with the key on and the sensor unplugged and then plugged in?
I got a Nissan Xterra 2000 that keeps coding knock sensor and misfire on the 6th cylinder n it has had a new intake manifold new distributor new radiator cuz it was cracked on the top. At stop light it's idles rough . Had new spark plugs n wires. No one can fix this car n 1100.00 bucks was put in it. I'm female n don't know what else it could be. Please help and I'm in lancaster Ohio. What else could it be. Also had an injector put in it. I'm puzzled n love this SUV. Anyone have an idea what it could be? Thanks
Dear wicked,
I can not help you but just had to tell you that I bought a used 2002 Xterra in 2012. I have had the same nightmare money sucking issues and no one, even the best mech's can not figure out why this knock sensor continues to trigger problems. I have had pretty much all hoses clamps motor mounts. gaskets and radiator along with temp gauge replaced, brand new. It will run great for weeks, then BOOM! I have come too one conclusion though. I live in Nevada. The outside temps change dramatically and my Xterra does not like the colder weather. It has now become it's evil side and runs like shit. The SES light flashes, then stays solid as a de accelerate. It's a mystery...
Good Luck to you!
Julia Smithson really then wth could it be then. They checked the Heads n I was there n they r good.. it's going back in n now pcv light came on n my oil light. But I have bad valve cover seals so we will see
I have been struggling with this Xterra the same. This time, to save money on diagnostics and procedures that may or may not be the culprit, I read a lot of the threads, watched several video's and chose to do some maintenance stuff myself.
I started with cleaning the MAF sensor, the wires and connector. Replaced air filter. All this was pretty simple though I did spend $20.00 buying best products. I also poured a cup of household rubbing alcohol in gas tank, in case of water or bad gas.
Get this!
The SES light remained but only solid not blinking. My car did not "lug" or shake. Ran like it should. I tested the codes again, (the car misfired a bit in route) but it only gave me PO328. (I'm working on this now), BUT! SES light is off and the car is normal once again!
I am convinced that the sensors are just as good as signaling for minor attention as they alert for major. Next I am going to check n clean spark plugs. It is pretty greasy under my hood so I am going to de grease and learn to do this stuff myself.
I am single also, and work various jobs for minimal monies. I have spent far more on replacement parts than my car is worth. But I like the SUV. My Bionic X
Good luck and keep me posted!
Julia Smithson Lmk I got the same code which is the knock sensor but my check engine light stays on but doesn't flash anymore. This shit needs figured out. Omg
witch, maybe an obvious question but you did not say: you did have the knock sensor replaced? If you didnt, you can save some money by relocating it-- a few vids here on howto. Not sure what the misfire could be if everything was replaced as you say. Also maybe the knock is picking up the misfire. Sorry, Im not a mechanic, thats all I can offer.
Heh, so load testing wires from sensor to that plug aint good idea? just sell wires?? :D
Here wires from car manufacture, cost more then the car. So i like to fix them my self ;)
what if those wires was broken just after that plug? ...as someone did make a holes on them for testing????
Sorry realy great videos! I just had great day on fixing after someones great ideas.. :P
Can I Just cut that 8 pin wire and fool the engine. Just need it for another year.
Didn't understand half of what it was you were saying.
Keep watching, it gets better :-)
That is the worse motor to pull the heads on! Done pulled two and hate it with a passion! Work a man to death!
Great video but screw taking that engine apart, open the loom tap into that and relocate new sensor on top of plenum
bad idea. The sensor is where it is to sense vibration and send message to computer to advance or retard timing according to your driving situation.Re: climbing,temp,load pull, etc.
am i the only one going silly about the hose clamp and spring clamp
Hey man, send me one of those verris scopes as a prize for subscribing to your channell and likeing your video....yay!!!
Here are the basics:
ruclips.net/video/d_JMJ1KRJwI/видео.html
At 7:48 ...Mega means thousands ? nope, it means millions
I know that. It must have said .5M for me to call it 500,000 ohms? I need to watch it again.
Yep it said specifically
.500m to .620M
Hard to see the screen at that time stamp. I stopped reducing the size of the scan/scope graphs in my newer videos, so it shows up better on all screens.
Thanks!
Really helpful.👌