Hey man. My car was running but bringing up a service engine light and the code was I had a bad sensor, but my car was still running….. I decided to go ahead and get a new sensor to get the light to go away, put the new sensor in and now when I try to turn my car on it won’t turn over completely. It’ll try to but won’t. I can’t figure out what
Hello dear! Can you explain why my electrical gadgets are not working along with crankshaft issue that was detected by the ECU system. Im replacing the crankshaft for now but electrical problems still exist... I recently changed the battery 3 months ago. Could it be something else? Your advice would be of great value 🙏🙏😊
could this sensor be a reason why my fuse to the fuel pump wouldn’t be getting any electrical continuity? I used a test light the other day on locations that could be causing my car not to start and so far it’s been that fuse; my fuel pump relay is good tho no issues there * new fuel pump * * new fuel filter * 1992 bmw m50 non vanos motor if it helps
I'm trying this next, my civic has been misfiring for a year and at times goes into limp mode, when I restart it it's not in limp mode temporarily. I've replaced many coil packs, fuel pumps, spark plugs, VVT solenoid, EGR valve, Throttle Body, PCV valve, I'm thinking maybe the crank sensor is weak , or cam sensor, or MAP sensor? Idk but I've had it with this war. It's stuck home in the garage.
Have a 24k swap and everything was fine. Changed out throw out bearing on tranny and put everything back. Start car and car started normal and few second later car shut off. Now car won't start unless I put pressure on gas pedal to keep trottle open. Engine code said its camshaft position sensor and change all that even changed out the crank position sensor too and still didn't help
Idle control valve is block off and reset in kpro. Timing looks good. Gas and sparks seems to be good too because I can keep car on by keeping foot on gas. If let go idle drop to 0 and die. Please help
Thank you for the precious time you invested into making your videos. The way you explain and detail symptoms and causes and the steps to take really make a huge difference towards good. Thank you again, and may you increase all the more in success and good wealth, amen 🙏.
When the crankshaft sensor starts to go bad, it starts showing symptoms when it's cold. This is my own experience. You just can't find that information anywhere. You could easily think that there is a problem with the mixture ratio, although the crankshaft sensor may be the real culprit and may work well in warm weather, but at a certain degree of frost it starts to show symptoms.
Same here! Idk why these past few weeks I have issues starting my car. It usually takes about 5 times for it to start and I get hard starts. I hear a single click when I try starting my car, so I'm not sure if it's my starter just being dumb or my crankshaft sensor... maybe both
Same problem here. Cold days lots of crank time before finally starting. Starter fluid helps at first. After it went completely out wouldn’t start again with anything.
hey my friend I have a question for you, I have a problem with nissan titan 2014 sometimes it starts and sometimes it wont alraeady replaced cam and crack sensors but is doing the same thing when it doesnt start I DONT have INYECCION PULSE IN ALL INYECTORS so my question is which sensor is resposible for telling the computer to fire the inyectors when cranking I HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME WITH SOME IDEAS THANKS MY FRIEND
Is it possible that my car stalls sometimes without any fault sign on the dashboard and error code in memory due to faulty crankshaft position sensor? Thanks for great video!
I’m experiencing same thing with my 2006 Honda civic EX, car cranks but no start, No Check Engine light & scanned it & no codes either…. & I already put in a New Starter, New Battery, New Spark Plugs, & it worked fine but then it wouldn’t start later on, I was thinking it might be the ECM & today I went to AutoZone & see how much would it cost to get a new ECM but sure enough it’s pretty pricing ($395) & not only that but I would actually have to send out my ECM to have them Rebuild/Refurbish & it’s a 50/50 chance they could even fix it & I still would have to pay that amount smh. Sooooo after watching this video, I’m thinking of doing this first (Change my Crankshaft sensor) & see if it makes a difference or even fix my problem.
Does a mass air flow sensor need to be program after installed reason for check engine came on after I unhooked the air cleaner to install air filter then I started to get purge codes p0442 and p0455 now I have oil leak can't find where it's coming from
Thank you you help me solve a problem I couldn't solve for awhile and it's due to that they can look for a wire thank you your information was great and I'm very grateful for it excellent explanation
Great video. What if you have a new engine wiring, crankshaft position sensor and fuse box , but still getting P0339 code? What could be causing the issue? Also what is the name of the injector light tester you showed in your video? Thank you!
So I replaced mine and it didn't help any on my 2008 honda accord. It didn't help it got worse. So I put the old one back in and then had it relearned. It worked for like a week. Then went back to limp mode. It's probably my wiring wouldn't you say? If the censor was bad it wouldn't of worked for that week I'd think
You are good 👍 bro, thank you. Please if you have not done so already about all the senceres, please make more videos about each individual sencer how it works and exactly what it delivers. Also how to inspect them that they are faulty. Thank you very much and all respect to all honest people ❤
Can I tap your brain for a second please my friend? I have a P0315, but the car runs without any problems except when I remove my foot from the accelerator pedal and decelerate. It stores as pending then stores permanent. 1. I replaced the crankshaft pulse ring and CKP sensor when I changed my clutch (all OEM instructions followed). I had P0315 before, but still have it. 2. Always starts first time. 3. Never stalls. Never cuts out. 4. Always receive fuel, although fuel economy is very poor at the moment. (Going to check purge valve, clean injectors and check timing. Already replaced cam cover, MAF sensor, sparks, 02 sensors, cleaned VVT solenoids, throttle-body and thermostat system.) But, it is sluggish at low speeds especially in 1st, but fine from 2nd to 5th. The car will jolt when decelerating, a subtle kangarooing but nothing major. When code is cleared this is when the MIL will come on but only when I have driven above 40 and start decelerating. Apart from the above mentioned work I'm doing, is there anything else I should inspect? Thanks 👍
Very informative video 😊I have a Suzuki tl1000r (vtwin) with No spark at the rear cylinder. I have changed plugs, coils, wires, checked connection to ecu for resistance, and continuity, the coils are getting 12v from the ecu. Only thing left is the crankshaft sensor, do you have any advice here? It still only fires on the front cylinder, so the sensor is good. How do I properly check the pickup/harmonic balancer?
Would that cause a temperature difference in the Cadillac converters. 2013 Ford f150 econo boost 3.5 driver's side Cadillac converter gets hot and the passenger side catalytic converter is cold. Would that be a dollar store error Explain the intake camshaft positioning timing sensor
I have long cranking and then car dosent go well but when it starts normally car goes normally i have changed camshaft postion sensor. If i change crankshaft sensor on my bmw e39 530i 2001 does it need recoding if buy non eom part i bought febi bilstein sensor to camshaft. Please need help. So if it cranking 3sec before start i turn engine off and try again if it starts direct then i can drive without power losses. All the best
Hey i have a mercedes om642 diesel and on the female to male connectors of the cranck position sensor there was oil accumulated. Is there a reason why it would start to stop the engine running after being driven but then starts after 1 or 2 hours cooling down?
Heat related intermittent stalling. Mine only acted up after running the engine about a hour. Placing ice on the sensor temporarily fixed the problem. That told me it was the crankshaft sensor, not the camshaft sensor, or the computer.
@@markweiss5152 thanks for the reply I really appreciate it. I’ve ordered the crankshaft sensor and hoping it will fix my issue too. What type of car was yours?
I took mine off my Ford F-150 truck and it rattle back and forth like a baby rattle 🪇 so I'm went to the dealership and I bought me cam sensor position
Thanks for help but hard to reach as might as well change it instead of messing with it and shaking it like you said when it takes time to reach no 1 had time for rhat
I have a p0340 code. Already replaced the camshaft sensor. And the code is still there and the car still won't start. My battery keeps getting shorted out and the fuel pump and fuel injectors are off. So now I think I know what the problem is. The wiring harness to the camshaft position. I already bought the new wires and connectors I just don't know how to swap it out because I don't know nothing about electrical work. It doesn't say nothing about a crankshaft sensor or crankshaft wiring harness. But I still want to replace it because I think the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor work together. I just hope that if I replaced the connector seen the wires that I can start my car because the fuel pump is off and I can't start my car. But if there's an open circuit due to bad wiring then that would make sense but I just need to know that if I replace the wires will my car start that's all I want to know
My 96 jeep 4.0 was driving fine and starting to drop RPMs and then jump back up, then started to stall on idle, then stall while driving. Now won't start cranks but doesn't start. Will start and immediately stall sometimes
I’m having a problem with my 2012 Honda Civic SI one day I was driving car completely shut off didn’t want to have no lights on the dash so we connected one wire straight to the battery from the ignition and finally got it turned on but now is saying that I have to That I have I’m sorry a crankshaft position sensor and also got another check A
Hi my 2006 sienna has a P0016 Code cam and crank out of correlation but no bad symptoms it turns on without hesitation and engine runs steady the problem started when i took it to a mechanic for a p00300 multiple misfire issue and he said it was a bent valve be removed the head on bank 2 and when i got the van back it had that new code P0016 i took it back he the took cam gear pully off and basically he couldnt figure it out. What can it be?? I benn driving it for a year everyfay like this.
Kia Sorento...runs until fully warm..made it 5 miles every time. First time was camshaft sensor. Second camshaft sensor worked loose. Now it didn't help so going to crankshaft sensor...needing to pull timing, etc so replacing belt and plugs and valve cover gaskets.
Still waiting for my order. I hope that's the problem of my Honda civic si 2007. It start when it got heated its stalls. It drives but when I stop its stalls. I change already my map, maf sensor. I hope crankshaft position sensor will fix my problem.
i have w205 2.0 Engine 7G tronic. I have problem with not comfortable shifting to 2 and 2 to 3. At the moment of shifting, it feels like car stops for milliseconds and accelerate again. Do you think this can be due to crankshaft sensor?
My car runs good , something is causing to much gas to go thru unregistered or at the peak . I think Causing the catalytic converter to burn out cause of the symptoms. And are sometimes for a couple days I get 53 mpg. And then it drops to like 26 30 highway. Like as if it's under load or maybe the camshaft sensor on the 2006 civic ex ivtec coupe gas sohc 1.8L. stick shift. Red. Maybe the sensor is make the cam shaft profile not change or maybe it's changing but not registering. The engine is perky still so it can be the map . And I've done the o2sensors .and the air box sensor. But the car runs good. I can't find the issue it's been two years. But it exist and is there. It don't miss fire. It idles right. It rides in first gear with the stick shift without engine fuel injection jumping. I've done breaks . But I haven't done the map. Or the cam sensor or crank sensor. It starts easy. It don't die on the road with this mystery problem. . I believe it's burning out the cat what ever it is. Like as if the engine is under load. Like as if it is stuck in the high cam profile of the ivtec. Or it does work and it's just the sensor not sending it back. There isn't much it could be.. I remember once or twice as a other symptom or mystery. The car like lost all power for a slit second. But never died. It just felt like a dip or jerk like as if everything shut down kinda. But not all the way. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. And like two years ago the cam shaft sensor came on or was it the crank shaft sensor .i don't remember anymore. And it went off . And like 6 months later came back and went off never came back on I don't know if that anything . I want my gas mileage back. Thanks
Greetings, I own a 1993 C3500 7.4 Truck & I cannot locate the crankshaft Position Sensor (CKG). I've seen references of between Harmonic Balancer & Timing Cover, in the Block above the oil pan, back of the block, or inside the Distributor. I've looked carefully, no loom wires, no port in timing cover, & I replaced the OEM Distributor with new OEM unit. Vehicle timing set to 4 degrees before TDC. Verified all spark plug & fuel inj. Vehicle starts, stalls, back fires.
Hello from Oamaru, South island New Zealand. I have a 2012 Spanish built Nissan Navara D40 St-X Diesel pickup. Engine is a Nissan - Renault partnership common rail with 165.000 K.m on clock. When idling it's lumpy then when attempting to accelerate it farts n missis then dies. It smokes a really white Hazy putrid smoke but no oil in coolant nor coolant in sump. There's no fuel dilution in oil sump. It starts but struggle.. S.c.v, e.g.r cooler replaced (but didn't require so) injectors tested fine. E.g.r valve actuator works fine. Any idea what may cause this grief?... Crank n cam sensors?. Thanks again in advance..Carl
I drive like 40mph then my car starts choking. Then the engine check light came on computer read code P0016 . 4 things could be the problem where do I start?
Can this apply the same to motorcycle like Hayabusa Gen 3? My bike fall on the left side where the stator housing got cracked. The CKP sensor was in the stator housing...After the incident, when I was riding my bike I feel someone was pressing the brake....the bike got lagged but it was still able to ride like normal. I went to installed Brembo Brake and clutch MC....this is where things got worst. The bike will bog, unstable accelerations and stall. At traffic lights(stationary) the engine will get very hot and stall. You have cool it down for 15mins and the bike is able to start. As it accelerates again it will feel like something is pressing the brake, lag and stall. The rpm is unstable and check engine and fi sign appears. Can this be the CKP sensor faulty?
Great tutorial. Short and sweet and to the point. Much appreciated. Thanks for posting this.
Probably the simplest and best video explaining the crankshaft sensor I’ve found online so far, well done my friend
For reals. Thanks
Thanks a lot...it's so helpful
you are the guru.. excellent
thanks for the info very usefull
Helpful
Great job 👍
Thanks for the info!!
The camshaft position sensor is related to P0340 code. But a timing belt losing teeth often causes P0340.
Hey man. My car was running but bringing up a service engine light and the code was I had a bad sensor, but my car was still running….. I decided to go ahead and get a new sensor to get the light to go away, put the new sensor in and now when I try to turn my car on it won’t turn over completely. It’ll try to but won’t. I can’t figure out what
Hello dear! Can you explain why my electrical gadgets are not working along with crankshaft issue that was detected by the ECU system. Im replacing the crankshaft for now but electrical problems still exist... I recently changed the battery 3 months ago. Could it be something else? Your advice would be of great value 🙏🙏😊
That drawing is very….interesting. 😂😂😂😂
Thanks
Will a c.p.s going bad mess with compression in any way? Help would be appreciated 😅
No
The crankshaft sensor on a diesel is at the rear of engine. The camshaft senor is on the front of the engine.
could this sensor be a reason why my fuse to the fuel pump wouldn’t be getting any electrical continuity?
I used a test light the other day on locations that could be causing my car not to start and so far it’s been that fuse; my fuel pump relay is good tho no issues there
* new fuel pump *
* new fuel filter *
1992 bmw m50 non vanos motor if it helps
I'm trying this next, my civic has been misfiring for a year and at times goes into limp mode, when I restart it it's not in limp mode temporarily. I've replaced many coil packs, fuel pumps, spark plugs, VVT solenoid, EGR valve, Throttle Body, PCV valve, I'm thinking maybe the crank sensor is weak , or cam sensor, or MAP sensor? Idk but I've had it with this war. It's stuck home in the garage.
If my car idles ok but sputters bad when the car is put into gear, reverse or drive (auto trans) could that be a sign of a bad crank sensor?
Where is your shop at
Have a 24k swap and everything was fine. Changed out throw out bearing on tranny and put everything back. Start car and car started normal and few second later car shut off. Now car won't start unless I put pressure on gas pedal to keep trottle open. Engine code said its camshaft position sensor and change all that even changed out the crank position sensor too and still didn't help
Idle control valve is block off and reset in kpro. Timing looks good. Gas and sparks seems to be good too because I can keep car on by keeping foot on gas. If let go idle drop to 0 and die. Please help
can oil come spoil out of camshaft sensors
Yes
@@Top5AutoRepairs thanks
@@Top5AutoRepairs hi, just wondering if overfilling oil can ruin crankshaft sensor. I heard overfilling oil puts pressure on crankshaft, etc.
Changed my crankshaft position sensor and my car is still stalling
😂😂😂😂
Thank you for the precious time you invested into making your videos. The way you explain and detail symptoms and causes and the steps to take really make a huge difference towards good. Thank you again, and may you increase all the more in success and good wealth, amen 🙏.
This just fixed a thousand headaches
GREAT INFORMATION!!! GOD BLESS YOU AND ALL BELIEVERS IN THE TRUE AND RISEN LORD JESUS CHRIST OUR LORD AND SAVIOR!!! IN JESUS NAME!!! 🙏 🙏 🙏
Can a bad crankshaft sensor cause car hard shift from 2nd into drive or is symptoms something else
Interesting I just replaced my crankshaft position sensor like literally yesterday.
Very good explanation on how crankshaft position sensor works. Thank you!
Very informative diagnostic assessment.
Excellent points, I always come to your channel because you have the skills, to help prevent me from paying these bills, 😅😅thanks again
When the crankshaft sensor starts to go bad, it starts showing symptoms when it's cold. This is my own experience. You just can't find that information anywhere. You could easily think that there is a problem with the mixture ratio, although the crankshaft sensor may be the real culprit and may work well in warm weather, but at a certain degree of frost it starts to show symptoms.
Your crankshaft position sensor was bad?
Same here! Idk why these past few weeks I have issues starting my car. It usually takes about 5 times for it to start and I get hard starts. I hear a single click when I try starting my car, so I'm not sure if it's my starter just being dumb or my crankshaft sensor... maybe both
Bro. It makes sense bc I don’t have a code for it but on cold days. It wouldn’t crank over. Replacing it now and hoping this fixes it.
Same problem here. Cold days lots of crank time before finally starting. Starter fluid helps at first. After it went completely out wouldn’t start again with anything.
@@quietman2870 Okay, my problems started from about -15c below. And the engine only ran 500rpm
hey my friend I have a question for you, I have a problem with nissan titan 2014 sometimes it starts and sometimes it wont alraeady replaced cam and crack sensors but is doing the same thing
when it doesnt start I DONT have INYECCION PULSE IN ALL INYECTORS so my question is which sensor is resposible for telling the computer to fire the inyectors when cranking
I HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME WITH SOME IDEAS THANKS MY FRIEND
The plastic on mine looks super worn. Is there a recommended interval to change it? My car is a 2015 Toyota.
Is it possible that my car stalls sometimes without any fault sign on the dashboard and error code in memory due to faulty crankshaft position sensor?
Thanks for great video!
I’m experiencing same thing with my 2006 Honda civic EX, car cranks but no start, No Check Engine light & scanned it & no codes either…. & I already put in a New Starter, New Battery, New Spark Plugs, & it worked fine but then it wouldn’t start later on, I was thinking it might be the ECM & today I went to AutoZone & see how much would it cost to get a new ECM but sure enough it’s pretty pricing ($395) & not only that but I would actually have to send out my ECM to have them Rebuild/Refurbish & it’s a 50/50 chance they could even fix it & I still would have to pay that amount smh. Sooooo after watching this video, I’m thinking of doing this first (Change my Crankshaft sensor) & see if it makes a difference or even fix my problem.
You are a very good teacher. I completely understood everything you’ve explained. Just subscribed.
my 2011 chevy camaro SS does not start after refueling ONLY with Crankshaft position sensor fault code.... Any suggestions ?
Thank you for the detailed information. Very much appreciated. I just found your channel and I am subscribing.
1998Honda civic has a bad crankshaft sensor, scrap it
Thanks!
Does a mass air flow sensor need to be program after installed reason for check engine came on after I unhooked the air cleaner to install air filter then I started to get purge codes p0442 and p0455 now I have oil leak can't find where it's coming from
Dude. THANK YOU this was my issue on my 2000 Malibu
Thank you you help me solve a problem I couldn't solve for awhile and it's due to that they can look for a wire thank you your information was great and I'm very grateful for it excellent explanation
Great video. What if you have a new engine wiring, crankshaft position sensor and fuse box , but still getting P0339 code? What could be causing the issue? Also what is the name of the injector light tester you showed in your video? Thank you!
So I replaced mine and it didn't help any on my 2008 honda accord. It didn't help it got worse. So I put the old one back in and then had it relearned. It worked for like a week. Then went back to limp mode. It's probably my wiring wouldn't you say? If the censor was bad it wouldn't of worked for that week I'd think
You are good 👍 bro, thank you.
Please if you have not done so already about all the senceres, please make more videos about each individual sencer how it works and exactly what it delivers.
Also how to inspect them that they are faulty.
Thank you very much and all respect to all honest people ❤
Your video was helpful now I see why when crankshaft sensor is failing or just done it will trigger the 🚗 🖥 to strange things
Can I tap your brain for a second please my friend? I have a P0315, but the car runs without any problems except when I remove my foot from the accelerator pedal and decelerate. It stores as pending then stores permanent.
1. I replaced the crankshaft pulse ring and CKP sensor when I changed my clutch (all OEM instructions followed). I had P0315 before, but still have it.
2. Always starts first time.
3. Never stalls. Never cuts out.
4. Always receive fuel, although fuel economy is very poor at the moment. (Going to check purge valve, clean injectors and check timing. Already replaced cam cover, MAF sensor, sparks, 02 sensors, cleaned VVT solenoids, throttle-body and thermostat system.)
But, it is sluggish at low speeds especially in 1st, but fine from 2nd to 5th. The car will jolt when decelerating, a subtle kangarooing but nothing major. When code is cleared this is when the MIL will come on but only when I have driven above 40 and start decelerating.
Apart from the above mentioned work I'm doing, is there anything else I should inspect? Thanks 👍
Very useful video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge my friend!
Very informative video 😊I have a Suzuki tl1000r (vtwin) with No spark at the rear cylinder. I have changed plugs, coils, wires, checked connection to ecu for resistance, and continuity, the coils are getting 12v from the ecu. Only thing left is the crankshaft sensor, do you have any advice here? It still only fires on the front cylinder, so the sensor is good. How do I properly check the pickup/harmonic balancer?
Does the position of this sensor affect the bikes pick up????
Would that cause a temperature difference in the Cadillac converters.
2013 Ford f150 econo boost 3.5 driver's side Cadillac converter gets hot and the passenger side catalytic converter is cold.
Would that be a dollar store error Explain the intake camshaft positioning timing sensor
I have long cranking and then car dosent go well but when it starts normally car goes normally i have changed camshaft postion sensor. If i change crankshaft sensor on my bmw e39 530i 2001 does it need recoding if buy non eom part i bought febi bilstein sensor to camshaft. Please need help. So if it cranking 3sec before start i turn engine off and try again if it starts direct then i can drive without power losses. All the best
Great tutorial❤ thank you for sharing.
This video helped so much. Great explanation, definitely subscribing
I appreciate your help more then you'll ever know. You've helped me save thousands of dollars that I don't have I hope your doing well
😩buuudt Iyyye dooownhaaaAAvv NE dRn noid sNsr👋
very nice video it explains everything!
Hey i have a mercedes om642 diesel and on the female to male connectors of the cranck position sensor there was oil accumulated. Is there a reason why it would start to stop the engine running after being driven but then starts after 1 or 2 hours cooling down?
Thank you, your videos have helped out alot with our Mazda. :)
Great information and very straightforward
Right now show me how to relearn one in an 08 accord with an obd tool 😂...its all collusion with the auto manufacturers
Great tutorial..thank so much..❤..do more tutorial youre a blessings to d.i.y.guys..great video..
Heat related intermittent stalling. Mine only acted up after running the engine about a hour. Placing ice on the sensor temporarily fixed the problem. That told me it was the crankshaft sensor, not the camshaft sensor, or the computer.
Did you end up fixing it?
@@corbenrawlings7937 Yes, I replaced the crankshaft sensor. Pay the little extra and get the part with the alignment jig with it.
@@markweiss5152 thanks for the reply I really appreciate it. I’ve ordered the crankshaft sensor and hoping it will fix my issue too. What type of car was yours?
@@corbenrawlings7937 2001 ford ranger, 2.3L
How do i know my crankshaft position sensor is bad or still good.
I appreciate the content, and very well explained of the different possibilities, 👋✌️👍👍
Can this cause a car to not start after it’s hot, my car starts fine cold, can’t start hot
Did you find a fix for your issue?
I took mine off my Ford F-150 truck and it rattle back and forth like a baby rattle 🪇 so I'm went to the dealership and I bought me cam sensor position
Thanks for help but hard to reach as might as well change it instead of messing with it and shaking it like you said when it takes time to reach no 1 had time for rhat
excellent video
need more videos like this 🎉
Can you swap in a new crankshaft position sensor without removing the harmonic balancing pulley?
Yes
It depends on vehicle
🇿🇦 Excellent presentation and easy to understand.
Great video buds cool 😎
I have a p0340 code. Already replaced the camshaft sensor. And the code is still there and the car still won't start. My battery keeps getting shorted out and the fuel pump and fuel injectors are off. So now I think I know what the problem is. The wiring harness to the camshaft position. I already bought the new wires and connectors I just don't know how to swap it out because I don't know nothing about electrical work. It doesn't say nothing about a crankshaft sensor or crankshaft wiring harness. But I still want to replace it because I think the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor work together. I just hope that if I replaced the connector seen the wires that I can start my car because the fuel pump is off and I can't start my car. But if there's an open circuit due to bad wiring then that would make sense but I just need to know that if I replace the wires will my car start that's all I want to know
Any update on how this went? I'm in the same situation with a 2004 ford ranger.
This guy is awesome! Keep it up.
My 96 jeep 4.0 was driving fine and starting to drop RPMs and then jump back up, then started to stall on idle, then stall while driving. Now won't start cranks but doesn't start. Will start and immediately stall sometimes
I hope it's this sensor
Thanks for all your knowledge brother. It helped me so much to understand the issue on my Transit.
I’m having a problem with my 2012 Honda Civic SI one day I was driving car completely shut off didn’t want to have no lights on the dash so we connected one wire straight to the battery from the ignition and finally got it turned on but now is saying that I have to That I have I’m sorry a crankshaft position sensor and also got another check A
Maybe I have to relearn my crankshaft position center
Thank you for good teachings. Did you write any book?
I used to.
Explaining is how we learn! Thanks!
Hi my 2006 sienna has a P0016 Code cam and crank out of correlation but no bad symptoms it turns on without hesitation and engine runs steady the problem started when i took it to a mechanic for a p00300 multiple misfire issue and he said it was a bent valve be removed the head on bank 2 and when i got the van back it had that new code P0016 i took it back he the took cam gear pully off and basically he couldnt figure it out. What can it be?? I benn driving it for a year everyfay like this.
Wow!! Thank you for the visual aid!!
Kia Sorento...runs until fully warm..made it 5 miles every time. First time was camshaft sensor. Second camshaft sensor worked loose. Now it didn't help so going to crankshaft sensor...needing to pull timing, etc so replacing belt and plugs and valve cover gaskets.
You are a grate tutorial, simple and straight on point thanks for your time
Still waiting for my order. I hope that's the problem of my Honda civic si 2007. It start when it got heated its stalls. It drives but when I stop its stalls. I change already my map, maf sensor. I hope crankshaft position sensor will fix my problem.
Did it?
@@leolequerique nope. I sold the car.
So if there is dirt on the crankshaft fins messing with the sensor signals, not much you can do for that? Get a new car?
Spray it down with some water, then let it dry.
@@AUDIO2AUTO Really? spray them inside the engine?
i have w205 2.0 Engine 7G tronic. I have problem with not comfortable shifting to 2 and 2 to 3. At the moment of shifting, it feels like car stops for milliseconds and accelerate again. Do you think this can be due to crankshaft sensor?
My car runs good , something is causing to much gas to go thru unregistered or at the peak . I think Causing the catalytic converter to burn out cause of the symptoms. And are sometimes for a couple days I get 53 mpg. And then it drops to like 26 30 highway. Like as if it's under load or maybe the camshaft sensor on the 2006 civic ex ivtec coupe gas sohc 1.8L. stick shift. Red. Maybe the sensor is make the cam shaft profile not change or maybe it's changing but not registering. The engine is perky still so it can be the map . And I've done the o2sensors .and the air box sensor. But the car runs good. I can't find the issue it's been two years. But it exist and is there. It don't miss fire. It idles right. It rides in first gear with the stick shift without engine fuel injection jumping. I've done breaks . But I haven't done the map. Or the cam sensor or crank sensor. It starts easy. It don't die on the road with this mystery problem. . I believe it's burning out the cat what ever it is. Like as if the engine is under load. Like as if it is stuck in the high cam profile of the ivtec. Or it does work and it's just the sensor not sending it back. There isn't much it could be.. I remember once or twice as a other symptom or mystery. The car like lost all power for a slit second. But never died. It just felt like a dip or jerk like as if everything shut down kinda. But not all the way. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. And like two years ago the cam shaft sensor came on or was it the crank shaft sensor .i don't remember anymore. And it went off . And like 6 months later came back and went off never came back on I don't know if that anything . I want my gas mileage back. Thanks
Thank you 🙏🇦🇺
well explained
Im remember learning this in school.
Greetings, I own a 1993 C3500 7.4 Truck & I cannot locate the crankshaft Position Sensor (CKG).
I've seen references of between Harmonic Balancer & Timing Cover, in the Block above the oil pan, back of the block, or inside the Distributor. I've looked carefully, no loom wires, no port in timing cover, & I replaced the OEM Distributor with new OEM unit.
Vehicle timing set to 4 degrees before TDC. Verified all spark plug & fuel inj.
Vehicle starts, stalls, back fires.
Quality information. Thank You.
Hello from Oamaru, South island New Zealand.
I have a 2012 Spanish built Nissan Navara D40 St-X Diesel pickup. Engine is a Nissan - Renault partnership common rail with 165.000 K.m on clock.
When idling it's lumpy then when attempting to accelerate it farts n missis then dies.
It smokes a really white Hazy putrid smoke but no oil in coolant nor coolant in sump.
There's no fuel dilution in oil sump.
It starts but struggle..
S.c.v, e.g.r cooler replaced (but didn't require so)
injectors tested fine. E.g.r valve actuator works fine.
Any idea what may cause this grief?... Crank n cam sensors?.
Thanks again in advance..Carl
How do you fix Code P2227 & P2228 despite replacing the MAP sensor on a 2016 Chevy Cruze LT with 1.4 Engine?
Thank you
I drive like 40mph then my car starts choking. Then the engine check light came on computer read code P0016 . 4 things could be the problem where do I start?
Great video 👍
This exactly what happens to my on my BMW. What if the wiring is bad is there a new part for that
Yes
Lexus Gs400 my exact same issue I'm going to get me a crank shaft positioning sensor I'll leave an update. New subscribe thxs!
Did it fix your issue?
@@corbenrawlings7937 ..... Yes that fix it. Runs like a champ now 🙂
@@foodforthought872 was your car only stalling when it got to operating temperature and then once cooled would start again?
@@foodforthought872 was yours playing up when the engine got to operating temperature? Then after letting it cool would work again?
Can this apply the same to motorcycle like Hayabusa Gen 3?
My bike fall on the left side where the stator housing got cracked. The CKP sensor was in the stator housing...After the incident, when I was riding my bike I feel someone was pressing the brake....the bike got lagged but it was still able to ride like normal.
I went to installed Brembo Brake and clutch MC....this is where things got worst.
The bike will bog, unstable accelerations and stall. At traffic lights(stationary) the engine will get very hot and stall. You have cool it down for 15mins and the bike is able to start. As it accelerates again it will feel like something is pressing the brake, lag and stall. The rpm is unstable and check engine and fi sign appears. Can this be the CKP sensor faulty?