I finally found someone who explains the reason for two wires and only one was connected and the function of the graund. Thanks for the video, I have my X stopped for this question.
Thank you for this. Might I add that I didn't have a meter to show me which side I should connect to so I went with the same pinout you used. The issue was still present 2 days later after many resets of the battery and ecm. For giggles I used the other pinout and fixed my issue instantly "after reseting"
Glad you were able to make it work. When using a knock sensor for a different vehicle or different year model, like we’re doing here, there is no way to be sure if it is the left or right pin - out from the sensor, except to measure each pin to ground and see which is a dead short and which had 750 ohms. Of course, if you don’t have a meter, you can do as you describe here, and just try each pin and see which one clears the trouble code.
Hello, Jon. I realize this is an old video. You are probably the most knowledgeable person that I've stumbled upon in all of these different videos that I've watched of relocating the knock senosr, that's why I am going to ask you my questions and hope that you respond. Question #1: Do I have to use a knock sensor from a Maxima? Or can I use the correct one, relocate it, and just use like a spade connector or something similar? Question #2: Some people have stated that the shielding in the coaxial cable needs to be twisted together, crimp a ring terminal on, and grounded to the engine. Or is it grounded on the ECM side? The shielding is there to intercept electromagnetic energy and shunt it to ground, correct?
Hey there, I do not know of anything special about the Maxima KS except that it comes with a wiring harness. Could the piezo element be more sensitive and therefore works better from the new position ? Maybe.... if that is the reason, I haven't heard anyone state that. Just a thought I had. That would be the only difference I can think of. Use your ohm meter to check the shield drain wire jacket to the chasis. If the shielkd conductors show a dead short to ground, then the shield is already grounded on the other end. You can just cut them off. If the shield is NOT shorted to the chasis, then you can either attach it to the engine with a lug OR.... remember that one of the terminals in the knock sensor is attached directly to the base of the sensor and IS a ground. Just use the correct connector and make sure the shield goes to the ground terminal and the center conductor goes to the one that measures 570 ohms. Hope that helps.
@Mrportajon Yes, this does help. Thank you for answering my questions! I just wanted to make sure I had all the information I needed before attempting to relocate the knock sensor.
I've wasted 1/2 day waiting for someone to give a ride to get pig tail end to relocate my knock sensor and here I come across your vedio where you explained about 2 wire or 1 wire to the sensor and you explained it very very well on how to just use 1 wire damn if I would've seen your vedio earlier I'd be done.
will this actually detect engine knock properly by relocating it to the top? doesn't the knock sensor need to be in a specific location? would this only help remove any engine codes?
The knock sensor is a piezo element that detects vibrations and creates fluctuations in the signal voltage. These vibrations are present throughout the engine and the piezo can detect these vibrations from any point that is connected to the head / block. The bolt running through the manifold provides an adequate connection to transmit the vibrations to the sensor. Even in the factory location, the sensor is able to pick up vibrations from the cylinders located on the front of the engine. Because those vibrations travel throughout the engine block and head. Short answer: YES the sensor functions in the new location.
Excelente amigo, justo la información que buscaba, sobre el tema de la concion, ya que veo que unos tienen dos cables otros solo uno. Disculpa no escriba en ingles pero mi escritura es muy mala
Does the knock sensor cause the transmission to act weird? Mine sometimes jerks into gear, sometimes not always. Took it to mechanic and the code was pointing towards knock sensors and tps. Got the tps replaced but not the knock sensor.
So I'm stomped someone I bought my truck from had already done the relocation but I think its wired wrong. Should it be tied into the wire going toward the firewall or away from it?
There is only one wire that you need to connect. The center conductor of the coaxial cable. The outer shield can be cut away and discarded. It is a braided conductor that surrounds the center conductor and it’s jacket. Just use a small screwdriver or pick to unbraid and fray the shield, then twist it all together and cut it loose. The strip the jacket away from the center conductor and connect it to the new connector you are using to connect to the non common pin of the sensors. You can look up the preparation of coaxial cable to familiarize yourself with what coaxial cable is and how to strip and isolate the inner conductor from the outer.
@@Mrportajon thanks.most videos are showing a plug-in to the new 99 Maxima sensor. Why didn't you go with the plug In? It also has a u shaped clip that secured it.
@@mr.skeptical3071 I didn’t have the correct connector. But even if you do have the correct connector to plug into the sensor, the question remains regarding which conductor from the coaxial cable goes to which wire / terminal on the sensor. The purpose of this video was to explain that one terminal of the sensor is just a ground. You test it by using an ohm meter and find which terminal is a dead short to ground. This sensor is a piezo element that measures small fluctuations in resistance between a low voltage signal current and ground. The ecm has a common ground to measure this signal current against and dies not necessarily need the ground wire from this sensor. The only purpose the outer shield serves is as a shield drain, to drain any possible inductive voltage from other conductors running in the same bundle of wires. If you have the right connector, yes, go ahead and connect the braided shield conductors to the wire / terminal of the connector / sensor that shows a dead short (0 ohms) to ground. The center conductor from the coaxial should be connected to the wire / terminal that reads about 575 ohms to ground. But again, if you don’t have the connector and pigtail, you can just find a small, slip on lug from any typical auto connector, break it out of the connector and use it as a single, attaching it to the 575 ohm terminal of the sensor and the center conductor from the coaxial.
Hopefully someone has an answer for me. So when I opened the coaxial cable, I have 2 wires. A white and black or red, I’m not at home so I can’t remember. I’ve tried connecting just the white. Nothing. The other. Nothing. Both, still get the knock sensor code.
Never seen that. If the cable is "co axiial" that specifically means a single, center conductor. Two conductor wires can be shielded, but that is not coaxial cable. Not sure what you have found on your Xterra.
Hey there.... not sure what is going on there. First, I would double check everything. Check the resistance between the chasis and the positive terminal on the sensor. Make sure it within the range noted in the video. If the sensor is out of range, it's either a bad sensor or the wrong sensor. THe next thing that could be going on is that the coaxial wire going back to the ECM could be dmaaged, shorted, etc.... it is possible that your knock sensor was not bad at all. If the wire is broken, shorted or grounded somewhere between the the ends.... that is a problem. I have never checked to see what the ohms shouls be reading back the other way.... but I would disconnect the wire, then check resistance between the center conductor and the braided shield, then between the center conductor and the chasis. it should be the same and it sshould not be a dead short.... wish I could tell you what it should read, but best I can say is that the two readings should match and it should not be a dead short.
John, turn your camera horizontal. It appears we are watching a stick video, tall and narrow. Reason is obvious, you are holding your camera vertical. Notice, every TV screen, computer screen, movie theater screen is orientated horizontal, better known as wide screen. Also, we as humans see our world considerably more horizontal than vertical. Your video has the left one-third and right one-third cut off, that is why I named it the stick video.
I don’t know about any “sub” harness. I have examined several of these engines in the scrap yard with the manifolds removed. If you get a good look at the connector, it looks like it could be possible to get it removed without cutting the wire and splicing in a new connector. Either someone with very small hands, or more likely a mirror and some reaching/grabbing/pulling tools. Either way, whether you cut the wire or disconnect the harness, it would be extremely difficult if not impossible to get the sensor out and replaced successfully. My vehicle has a few thousand miles on it now, since this replacement and the knock sensor fault has not returned.
Relocating the sensor does NOT do the job, waste of time. REPLACE it properly with an OE replacement, it's not difficult just time consuming. Any organied DIYer with motivation can do this, go watch sarah n tuneds video on this.
The knock sensor is a piezo element that reacts to particular frequency of vibration that is carried through the engine. Relocating the sensor has been effective for scores of these vehicles to clear the trouble condition and keep high mileage vehicles operating for owners that don’t wish to invest the money or time in a vehicle that is otherwise only worth perhaps $1,500. My Xterra has been over 50,000 miles since this relocation with no trouble codes or ill effects. The repair has proven effective both mechanically and economically.
Currently going through this. Other videos have left out a lot of useful information that you covered. Thank you! 👍🏻
I finally found someone who explains the reason for two wires and only one was connected and the function of the graund. Thanks for the video, I have my X stopped for this question.
Thank u, u just helped us save a huge headache thank you your awesome for going to this detail for this info
Thank you for this. Might I add that I didn't have a meter to show me which side I should connect to so I went with the same pinout you used. The issue was still present 2 days later after many resets of the battery and ecm. For giggles I used the other pinout and fixed my issue instantly "after reseting"
Glad you were able to make it work. When using a knock sensor for a different vehicle or different year model, like we’re doing here, there is no way to be sure if it is the left or right pin - out from the sensor, except to measure each pin to ground and see which is a dead short and which had 750 ohms.
Of course, if you don’t have a meter, you can do as you describe here, and just try each pin and see which one clears the trouble code.
Did the knock sensor pass the smog check test?
Thanks for the info i been having the knock senson code for a while now and i just saw your video... will do this thank you!!
Great video! Thanks for clearing that up!
Hello, Jon. I realize this is an old video. You are probably the most knowledgeable person that I've stumbled upon in all of these different videos that I've watched of relocating the knock senosr, that's why I am going to ask you my questions and hope that you respond.
Question #1: Do I have to use a knock sensor from a Maxima? Or can I use the correct one, relocate it, and just use like a spade connector or something similar?
Question #2: Some people have stated that the shielding in the coaxial cable needs to be twisted together, crimp a ring terminal on, and grounded to the engine. Or is it grounded on the ECM side? The shielding is there to intercept electromagnetic energy and shunt it to ground, correct?
Hey there,
I do not know of anything special about the Maxima KS except that it comes with a wiring harness. Could the piezo element be more sensitive and therefore works better from the new position ? Maybe.... if that is the reason, I haven't heard anyone state that. Just a thought I had. That would be the only difference I can think of.
Use your ohm meter to check the shield drain wire jacket to the chasis. If the shielkd conductors show a dead short to ground, then the shield is already grounded on the other end. You can just cut them off. If the shield is NOT shorted to the chasis, then you can either attach it to the engine with a lug OR.... remember that one of the terminals in the knock sensor is attached directly to the base of the sensor and IS a ground. Just use the correct connector and make sure the shield goes to the ground terminal and the center conductor goes to the one that measures 570 ohms.
Hope that helps.
@Mrportajon Yes, this does help. Thank you for answering my questions! I just wanted to make sure I had all the information I needed before attempting to relocate the knock sensor.
I've wasted 1/2 day waiting for someone to give a ride to get pig tail end to relocate my knock sensor and here I come across your vedio where you explained about 2 wire or 1 wire to the sensor and you explained it very very well on how to just use 1 wire damn if I would've seen your vedio earlier I'd be done.
Hope you got it figured out.
will this actually detect engine knock properly by relocating it to the top? doesn't the knock sensor need to be in a specific location? would this only help remove any engine codes?
The knock sensor is a piezo element that detects vibrations and creates fluctuations in the signal voltage. These vibrations are present throughout the engine and the piezo can detect these vibrations from any point that is connected to the head / block. The bolt running through the manifold provides an adequate connection to transmit the vibrations to the sensor. Even in the factory location, the sensor is able to pick up vibrations from the cylinders located on the front of the engine. Because those vibrations travel throughout the engine block and head.
Short answer: YES the sensor functions in the new location.
What did you have to do with the TPS? Just replace it?
Does this actually work, and will this stop any codes coming up?
Yes, many older Xterra vehicles have this relocation performed. It is an acceptable repair and stops the knock sensor trouble codes.
Excelente amigo, justo la información que buscaba, sobre el tema de la concion, ya que veo que unos tienen dos cables otros solo uno. Disculpa no escriba en ingles pero mi escritura es muy mala
thanks very much, I missed the conductor. if not for viewing your video , i would be scratching my head.
Glad you found it !
Thanku God bless you
Thank you...X1,000 !
Does the knock sensor cause the transmission to act weird? Mine sometimes jerks into gear, sometimes not always. Took it to mechanic and the code was pointing towards knock sensors and tps. Got the tps replaced but not the knock sensor.
Dude! Your the best
Hey, thanks for the vid. Where did you get your sensor?
Bought it at Advance Auto I think.
So I'm stomped someone I bought my truck from had already done the relocation but I think its wired wrong. Should it be tied into the wire going toward the firewall or away from it?
It should be attached to the wire running back away from the firewall. The one running to the firewall is attached to the old sensor .
My car is running horribly. A shop pulled up p0325 and p0300. He told my knock sensor was bad. 3.3 engine. Thoughts?
You can try the knock sensor relocate. It worked for my Xterra.
@@Mrportajon It ended up being the distributor.
Common issue with the Xterra. The distributor shaft bearings fail. Glad you got it repaired.
@@Mrportajon como lo hiciste tengo el mismo problema
Will it pass a smog check in these relocation?
Yes
So could you show how to join all that wire together?
There is only one wire that you need to connect. The center conductor of the coaxial cable. The outer shield can be cut away and discarded. It is a braided conductor that surrounds the center conductor and it’s jacket. Just use a small screwdriver or pick to unbraid and fray the shield, then twist it all together and cut it loose. The strip the jacket away from the center conductor and connect it to the new connector you are using to connect to the non common pin of the sensors. You can look up the preparation of coaxial cable to familiarize yourself with what coaxial cable is and how to strip and isolate the inner conductor from the outer.
@@Mrportajon thanks.most videos are showing a plug-in to the new 99 Maxima sensor. Why didn't you go with the plug In? It also has a u shaped clip that secured it.
@@mr.skeptical3071 I didn’t have the correct connector. But even if you do have the correct connector to plug into the sensor, the question remains regarding which conductor from the coaxial cable goes to which wire / terminal on the sensor. The purpose of this video was to explain that one terminal of the sensor is just a ground. You test it by using an ohm meter and find which terminal is a dead short to ground. This sensor is a piezo element that measures small fluctuations in resistance between a low voltage signal current and ground. The ecm has a common ground to measure this signal current against and dies not necessarily need the ground wire from this sensor. The only purpose the outer shield serves is as a shield drain, to drain any possible inductive voltage from other conductors running in the same bundle of wires.
If you have the right connector, yes, go ahead and connect the braided shield conductors to the wire / terminal of the connector / sensor that shows a dead short (0 ohms) to ground. The center conductor from the coaxial should be connected to the wire / terminal that reads about 575 ohms to ground.
But again, if you don’t have the connector and pigtail, you can just find a small, slip on lug from any typical auto connector, break it out of the connector and use it as a single, attaching it to the 575 ohm terminal of the sensor and the center conductor from the coaxial.
@@Mrportajon well I did it, now my truck won't start. They say the computer is fried. They said because I sprayed throttle body cleaner in intake
I miss Radio Shack :(
thanks jon ... good job brother ... great explanation sir ... God Bless You !!!
I just cut the wire coming from under the intake manifold. There is only one wire inside and it’s black. What the heck have I done?
It is just one wire with a braided shield around it. You got the correct wire.
Wanted to ask is the knock sensor still performing on the the xterra
Hi there. Yes, the Xterra has operated perfectly without any trouble codes since this video was made. It's a great old SUV.
what year of maxima? i have an 02 xterra need to relace the sensor.
1999 Maxiam is what I used.
My question is, that knock sens don't have the same plug the OEM Nissan Xterra so, that works it?
You change the connector to match the new sensor. It’s described in the video.
Thank you
Hopefully someone has an answer for me. So when I opened the coaxial cable, I have 2 wires. A white and black or red, I’m not at home so I can’t remember. I’ve tried connecting just the white. Nothing. The other. Nothing. Both, still get the knock sensor code.
Never seen that. If the cable is "co axiial" that specifically means a single, center conductor. Two conductor wires can be shielded, but that is not coaxial cable. Not sure what you have found on your Xterra.
Do you have a part number?
I had the p0328 knock sensor code so I relocated it to top of the motor like this and now I’m getting p0327 code..what gives?
Hey there.... not sure what is going on there.
First, I would double check everything.
Check the resistance between the chasis and the positive terminal on the sensor. Make sure it within the range noted in the video. If the sensor is out of range, it's either a bad sensor or the wrong sensor.
THe next thing that could be going on is that the coaxial wire going back to the ECM could be dmaaged, shorted, etc.... it is possible that your knock sensor was not bad at all. If the wire is broken, shorted or grounded somewhere between the the ends.... that is a problem. I have never checked to see what the ohms shouls be reading back the other way.... but I would disconnect the wire, then check resistance between the center conductor and the braided shield, then between the center conductor and the chasis. it should be the same and it sshould not be a dead short.... wish I could tell you what it should read, but best I can say is that the two readings should match and it should not be a dead short.
My problem is finding the old sensor wire on my Nissan frontier
It was actually .574 ohms on
K omhs ?
Okay cool
John, turn your camera horizontal. It appears we are watching a stick video, tall and narrow. Reason is obvious, you are holding your camera vertical. Notice, every TV screen, computer screen, movie theater screen is orientated horizontal, better known as wide screen. Also, we as humans see our world considerably more horizontal than vertical. Your video has the left one-third and right one-third cut off, that is why I named it the stick video.
I was told that this won't work because there is a "sub" harness that could be the problem and u must replace it too.
I don’t know about any “sub” harness. I have examined several of these engines in the scrap yard with the manifolds removed. If you get a good look at the connector, it looks like it could be possible to get it removed without cutting the wire and splicing in a new connector. Either someone with very small hands, or more likely a mirror and some reaching/grabbing/pulling tools. Either way, whether you cut the wire or disconnect the harness, it would be extremely difficult if not impossible to get the sensor out and replaced successfully.
My vehicle has a few thousand miles on it now, since this replacement and the knock sensor fault has not returned.
You never show where the wire comes from on the big harness end?
Geesh
I only know to pull it from the harness at that end.
Relocating the sensor does NOT do the job, waste of time. REPLACE it properly with an OE replacement, it's not difficult just time consuming. Any organied DIYer with motivation can do this, go watch sarah n tuneds video on this.
The knock sensor is a piezo element that reacts to particular frequency of vibration that is carried through the engine. Relocating the sensor has been effective for scores of these vehicles to clear the trouble condition and keep high mileage vehicles operating for owners that don’t wish to invest the money or time in a vehicle that is otherwise only worth perhaps $1,500.
My Xterra has been over 50,000 miles since this relocation with no trouble codes or ill effects. The repair has proven effective both mechanically and economically.
my xterra was 1100 and it has no reverse. i WANT it to blow up
WHY???WHY???
Why what ?
Just kidding around. Great informational video. Help me and a buddy at work. Saved us a lot of time
You didn’t even show the one you connected to 😂
I will refund your price of admission to see this video.
All the repeating useless stuff is not needed. Try centering video and not moving camera all over the place.
Watched another video that said a bad EGR sensor can clear up a P0327 code if knock sensor is replaced and still throws code.