If the vibration goes away when you engage 4WD then the problem is your needle bearing located in the front driver side diff. Very common on Tacoma’s after lifting them. You will need the ECGS bushing in order to fix your problem. Hope this helps. Keep us updated.
Adrian Soliman my regular cab has the same issue. It has a pretty good rake to it no lift. It’s been like that for 50k miles and has never changed. Sometimes I think it might be getting worse but not sure. 265/70/17s on method nv wheels.
Ujoint angles have to match. When you space the rear axle, the u joint at the axle(pinion angle) and the one in front of it are at different angles, causing harmonics at certain driveshaft speeds. The angles have to match(or be very close) to cancel each other out.
I would think using blocks is like putting a platform under a ladder instead of getting a taller ladder? There is a physical difference there that doesn’t quite fill the void because the platform isn’t part of the actual structure.
Spacers compress the front coils that are on your factory struts. It does stiffen the ride, it is just a subtle amount. You didn't maintain crap, it just isn't as noticeable as a lifted strut would be.
You have to be careful with that vibration usually that’s an indication the axles differential angle a little off. In the short term probably not gonna causing problems but down the road could lead to some issues with the powertrain. With certain vehicles when they’re torquing it back if it’s not close enough to spec that vibration can happen. It’s usually a good indication that the vehicle is not happy with its new angles. Before you add larger tires putting more stress on the vehicle take it to a professional suspension lift shop they can tell you right away driving it what the problem is.
My fuel miles not even close. My sr5 best was 19.5 at 75 mph. 80.0 18.00. My 18 trd with a shell 18.5 at 75.mph. 17.9 at 80.. stock suspension. Oh wait could be California crappy gas.
Any lift I don't care what brand of componets are used once truck is lifted it will lose the original factory settings not the same anymore, the slightest pitch changed on the driveline doing a suspension lift will change the driveline angle degree, vibration is felt which is wearing the bearings of the U joints also with many lifts the alignment is off from what the stock was no matter how the alignment is set after a lift it will never be the same so expect early tread wear, I just bought used 2017 tacoma offroad 4x2 with lock diff & I asked myself do I want to put up with all problems as I mentioned after a lift I say noway I will keep it stock with less headaches..
eh vehicles are being engineered with these issues in mind already. most trucks for a 6 inch lift doesnt even affect the carrier bearing or u joints at all. after 6 inches is when you gotta really start replacing stuff or youre gonna tear shit up.
3 inch lift is too much. Carrier bearing spacer will help. If you don’t go off-road 5100’s at zero with Eibach progressive springs will make you very happy. I am going with King 2.5 all the way around on mine. I do go off-road all summer.
youre good man, the spacers are making your struts rebound harder and faster, thats expected with a spacer lit. youre stacking something on top of your strut, youre making the strut easily compressed at any given moment. same with the leaf spring spacer. making the strut or shock compress faster and rebound harder. this is why you see people getting lift struts and replacing their spacers. as for the looks every 4wd 1/4 1/2 3/4 and 1 ton truck comes 2 inches taller than its 2wd counterpart. its a factory lift basically. i liffted a 4th gen explorer, im asked all the time why and my response is, its paid for, why not?
I too feel it has to do with the pinion angle (when ever you lift a vehicle your basically bringing the axles slightly closer to each other). Whether it is the front or rear differential or if the angle of the CV shafts is also effected is the debate. Each truck reacts differently based on height. That same lift might not cause vibration on another Tacoma while another one may have more symptoms.
I have no doubt it's your needle bearing, but you can find out for sure by turning your 4x4 on while it's happening. If it's the needle bearing, the vibration will go away in 4x4. Just based on your description it definitely sounds like the cuplrit, and it's often more pronounced when the weather is cooler just like you described. Good thing you don't offroad or those spacers would likely cause your shocks to bottom out and snap like i've seen many times.
It's sound like the dreaded rumble strip issue with Tacoma's and 4R. Check out the Tacoma and 4R forums; search rumble strip. Had it with my 2016 4R and they changed that needle brg and it kinda went away. I think it's the drive shaft destroying the needle brg and Toyota does not want to change drive shaft out under warranty. There is Toyota service notice on it.
@@jerryrichards9107 it is the needle bearing... common prob. for the tacoma. I had 3x. all the same, did the mod, CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING mod. eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html
Going with a 2-1 lift myself this week.. nothing wrong with spacer lifts.. I ran them on every truck I owned with no problems at all.. I have a ATV to go off road and trash. I’m not going to put an almost 40K truck in the places I 4 wheel 😂.. Why would ya want to put $1000+ lift on and never take it off road.. spacers are fine! Don’t listen to most of these people that try to sell ya something you don’t need 🤷🏻♂️by the way nice Tacoma 👍🏻
GTboosted went awesome looks so much better IMO. Added 1.25 wheel spacers & 265/75s also. No vibrations yet but still less than 100 miles on it.. I’d recommend it👍🏻
@@Klperformance68 that's crazy. What a coincidence I ordered 265/75r16s and 1.25" wheel spacers a couple days ago Good to know that there is no issues. Did you do the install yourself or had a shop do it. If so how much?
GTboosted did the install myself. It’s easy enough with basic tools & general knowledge. There are videos of the install on here that can walk ya through it.. 👍🏻
I mean this constructively - but I’ve been driving lifted trucks for 35 years and coil spacer leveling kits on an IFS truck are nothing but trouble. Wether that trouble starts immediately or x miles down the road - they are not a good way to do it. You need to go all in with a mild drop bracket lift of full blown wide track front end. And if you do, you will give up nothing other than the MPG
@@DrivenCompanion I got a 2015 tacoma PreRunner Sr5, from the ground to my front fender is 35” and rear is 37 I just want to lift my truck higher on the front maybe 3 more inches and nothing on the back. I’m not planning to do any off-road, mine is a 2wd, just want to lift it for looks. It’s my first truck and honestly I have no knowledge on lift kits, body lifts and things like that. What do you recommend? Thank you.
Spacers/blocks are extremely frowned upon. Puts your suspension in a huge bind. Wears out your parts extremely fast. Makes your front suspension basically not existent with zero damping from over-loaded springs. It’ll feel like you have 900lb springs on there. Or no suspension for that matter. Honestly I don’t like the 5100s either. They do the same thing. Overload your springs. N basically are silver 4600 shocks that come stock. Solid beginner route would be the Fox 2.0 series coilovers and rear shocks for not much more then 5100s and same $ for a 5100/OME set up. Easy swap out. Keep your stock units in tact instead of tearing it all apart. Then a 3 leaf pack for the rear instead of blocks. Step it up $400 and you can get the standard 2.5 Fox coilovers that you can convert to extended when you rebuild them if you decide to add UCAs. Same exact shock as the high end stuff. Just missing the resi and adjustments. Good middle ground would be Fox 2.5 coilovers and 2.0 rear shocks for 1-1.5” lift with 265s. Or step it up and get the extended version with UCAs and 3AAL pack for 3/2 lift and 285s. Def would be night n day difference over spacers, 5100/OME, toytec, 6100/5160 setups. For around the same price. With the 2.0 coilovers your pretty stuck though. With the 2.5s you have the option to make them extended later if you want more lift and UCAs for $400 over 2.0s. I’m tired of seeing people with horrible lift decisions lmao. Or getting 5100/OME when they could’ve spent less for Fox 2.0s.
This is just about the worst way to modify your suspension. Preload your springs and lose all your travel. Not to mention cv angle isn’t corrected. About to ruin the needle bearings and your drive shaft vibration is obviously too much
I did a 3/2 lift on my old tacoma and the drive shaft snapped. Soo on my new one I got got a drop bracket to bring the drive shaft to a stock angle. Live and learn I guess
Thanks for the video..I also bought a 2016 TRD bout a month ago??? It has 68000 miles want to do the 2inch rough country in the front, my question is did you buy the truck new have you had any problems with it??? Cause I see videos saying 2016 and 2017 Tacomas have issues, bought mine because apparently consumer reports states that the 2019 tacoma have a little more issues than the rest...again thx for the video....
Bilstein 5100 ride height adjustable front shocks $98.00 each 0-2.5 and $200.00 install and alignment,, everything Ive head about front spacers is not the best way to go,, Anyway thats what i did 2" in front, and with the 5100 in the back for my 2013,, no Issues with vibrations, And don't cut the rubber boot off your 5100's in the back.. Nice Truck
Are those blocks in the rear symmetrical? Or is there a left and a right? Can’t you grind those so the rear axle is tilted up at the front? Wouldn’t take much at all.
A lift will NOT change the fuel economy. Only if you add bigger tires will it change the fuel economy. You can get suspension lift kits that are stiff or as soft as you want. A leveling kit will never change the ride quality.
Why would you think fuel economy would be affected by a superficial lift the only effective change you have made is a slight change in the driveshaft angle
This just seems like a noob mistake. If you're only looking for looks then it's not bad on your wallet but those blocks do no justice to ride quality, and I don't know where you got your info, but you're wrong about billsteins vs spacers, and blocks vs leaves. Block/spacer setup is the cheapest and worst way you can lift your vehicle. You will get a better ride with the other more expensive setup. A shame to put a $50 "lift" on a $35k vehicle imo. Then again I've had a few off road vehicles and value function over appearance now. And the ride is shitty compared to stock don't lie lol.
malaihiboi actually..... your wrong, spacers, and blocks won't ruin the ride, the suspension geometry remains the same, just lifted, and bilstein 5100s have the same valving as the stock shocks and struts. If you really want a good suspension, icon, Fox or kings you have to spend some big bucks....
Jimena Gulla If you're gonna debate me get your facts straight. You don't know what you're talking about. I didn't say ruin. I said it is the cheapest and worst way to lift the vehicle. And it is. Ask anyone who's gone from stock to blocks, then from blocks to a proper lift. It makes the ride feel like shit because it wasn't designed to add blocks on top of an already tuned suspension. You don't need to do icon, Kings, or Fox's either to get a better ride than blocks. The most popular one is the Old man emu springs coupled with the Bilstein 5100s and the Dakar leaf pack in the rear.
Jimena Gulla youre fucking dumb dude. when you lift or lower a vehicle you ARE CHANGING THE GEOMETRY of the suspension. thus you need to replace components that are impacted by this change.
malaihiboi people dont realize that when you add strut spacers youre compressing the piston easier making your rebound greater. this is what gives the truck a bouncy ride. i got 2 inch strut spacers all around my explorer and the only real difference in ride quality is the rebound of my factory struts. im thinking about those rancho loaded 2.5" struts. thats all thats offered or my 4th gen explorer unless i want to get a $30k loan and go long travel.
I have the same setup and "HAD" the same problem....but I bought the truck with the vibration...but I fixed my problems and it rides just as good if not better than a new one.....
The infamous Toyota frame recall. Look it up. Toyota's frames rusting into and breaking in half like a taco.still as new as 2011 having troubles. Toyota doesn't honor recall on frames that has any modifications lift kits or rock sliders it gives them a way out of paying.
jack hook that’s been remedied. The company they bought the steel from did not treat them properly and Toyota sued the hell out of them and that’s why they gave pretty much everyone in the north East a new frame.
@@greenhenderson7165 still having trouble all the way up to 2011 and if u did any modifications to ur truck lift kit rock sliders Toyota used it for a way out and didn't honor their recall.they also had this same problem in japan with their frames.
@@greenhenderson7165 this started in late 60s and ran up to 2011 we know of that's a very long time for a very serious problem before trying to do anything about it. And then to nit pick and try to find excuses not to make it good is just like any company's corporate greed.i had a 93 pickup Toyota that folded up like a taco.i never recieved any compensation for it.
2018 TRD Off Road long bed: I'm planning on going with a Toytech spacer lift kit, 2" front and 1.5" rear. This leaves some rake and should reduce the change in the driveshaft and differential angle. Any thoughts on this approach? Also, should I consider a differential drop just to be safe? I hate vibrations.
I'd like to level mine out but I've taken a decent hit on mpg just with small tire upgrade. Went from stock TRD OR tires and rims to 275/70 17 and lost 2MPG. I'm on the fence on doing a bilstein 5100 level but I don't know if it's worth it.
Was lifting my Tacoma a mistake? No......Was lifting my Tacoma with blocks and spacers a mistake ? yes. Youd love what upgrading stock suspension and leafs will do! No question it would be an improvement in handling etc. Dakars leaf springs will feel 100% better than a block for towing
Thanks for honestly sharing your experience, nothing worse than enhancing your vehicle only to have issues afterwards. I’m new to the Tacoma world, I used to play with sports cars on the track but I’m old and my reactions aren’t what they used to be so I thought I would give off roading a try as it appears to move at a much slower pace. These are pretty amazing trucks in stock form and I won’t be in a hurry to modify mine until my skill set increases, from reading these comments I would probably spend the extra money for a decent four corner suspension upgrade, I’m sorry your having trouble with the vibrations.
From a performance perspective the only reason you should lift a vehicle is to fit larger tires, and that's only the second best way to fit larger tires. If you did it purely for aesthetic reasons then you deserve whatever it costs you in terms of efficiency loss and additional wear.
Great video!! Want you to continue without accidents! Please don’t feel you have to look into camera while driving! Makes me nervous and would feel better if you just looked straight ahead!! Thanks!👍
I lifted my 2016 with a 4 inch BDS kit with 265/65-18 tires I average anywhere from 15 to 16.5 stop and go city driving. Long distance like 45 miles one way I get 17 to 18 I'm trying to get some info on if going to 4:88 gears will add some gas milage
Question, Mike. I’m getting a 2021 Tacoma trd off road 2x4 in a few weeks. I’m debating spacers as well, but I have the same concerns as you about ride quality and performance etc. I don’t like the stock set up of the wheels and tires. I do want a better looking stance though. So I wanted to change out the wheels and tires to give a little beefier look. With stock suspension can I go to a 265 70 17 Toyo OC 3 tire and a 17x9 wheel with a 0 to -6 offset (stock is +25 offset) with no mods....trimming or cutting etc.??? I don’t mind the “rake” I just want it to look better than stock. Thank you
I think you'll be good but not 100% sure how the -6 offset would affect things. Also, I highly recommend you go 4wd if you ever plan to offroad or go in snow - not only that but resale value will be much better.
@@DrivenCompanion agree but I live in Las Vegas Nevada where that isn’t really an issue. Insurance in cheaper as well plus the price. Over 2 k less. I had an 04 taco trd 2wd and sold it within 24 hours. There is market for 2wd because of the good weather here. If I went with 0 offset and 5 backspacing or less I should be fine correct??
per ready lift's website. NOTE: FOR 2016-2018 MODEL TACOMA'S UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. Some 2016-18 Tacoma's may experience a deceleration vibration. If your truck has the "Crawl Feature" transfercase and only has a 1" stock rake between front and rear, you can use the kit but do not use the differential drop spacers. NOTE: Our objective is to have your truck sit level or slightly below level. Each truck is different so the amount of lift achieved may vary between 2.75'' and 3.0'' in the front. TRD-equipped trucks often have less rake compared to a non-TRD truck. Measurements on some customer's trucks have revealed as much as 1.0'' difference in the factory front end height. Some earlier model Tacoma trucks came factory with a 2 leaf plus overload rear spring pack that had sagging issues. Toyota is replacing these packs with a 3+1 rear leaf pack. Trucks with 2+1 packs will want to take advantage of this new lift system that includes a 1.0'' rear lift block for a complete lift wall the way around and a stance which will give approximately a 0.5'' rear to front rake. NOTE: In some Tacoma applications Toyota made minor changes to the Tacoma upper control arm suspension geometry. In some cases adding a leveling kit MAY affect the ability to correct the caster alignment to within factory specifications. If you have a 2011-2014 Tacoma with a leveling kit and the caster alignment specs cannot be put back to factory your truck will require an aftermarket Upper Control Arm with adjustable caster/camber.
I did trd sport just leveling with bilstien 5100 with just inch and half on front only. It’s the stupid mistake I could make. And I put 285/70/17. My fuel economy average is 13 to 15. I don’t really care about ride and fuel mileage. But that Alginment jut can’t have the steering center. I would never ever do it again. On 2017 trd sport. Dealer that’ was the best way to go bilstien
...probably not drive shafts. 2'' is nothing to the drive shafts they are still working within the range they were designed to run. If you like the way the truck looks then go ahead and get a 4-wheel alignment done. Go to an off road shop, most dealerships don't understand or by company policy always recommend going back to stock. My guess on the vibration is the axle CV joints. To fix this you probably need a Front Diff Drop Kit. A real off road shop can help you with this. You really will be better in the long run to get a complete lift kit. But you can still make this less expensive setup work. Just get it right before you damage othe components.
By putting the spacer in front you increased your shock length (don't hit any bumps to hard...some have busted their shocks). Wouldn't that also reduced your shock travel (more pressure on spring)? Usually the diff. problem with a lift is over 2 inches but, that maybe why Toyota 2 inch lift is actually 1.75.
Yes, I was hoping to avoid the issue by going 2 inches. Shock travel is not reduced with a spacer because it just sits on top of the full assembly. With the bilstein 5100 setup you reduce travel by reusing stock coils with a new shock.
The spacers move the entire shock down, but don’t lengthen the shock. The suspension arms will be at more angle, causing a change in roll centers and center of gravity. So the handling will feel different and roll overs will happen easier in panic situations.
FYI, I just notice some have videos that posted that by adding the spacer you make the overall length of shock longer (it is longer in order to get your lift see...ruclips.net/video/nk6gjcVxvl8/видео.html....) and the shock will bottom out before the bump stop can work, ...unless you put in larger bump stops. If you don't hit anything hard to bottom out, you shouldn't have a problem. But there is always a drop or pothole you didn't see until to late.
With the bilstiens you could have run OME, Eibach/Toytec and other manufatures make different rates in springs to use your full shock travel. ex. stock spring mid 500s lbs , TRD PRO 600 lbs, even an Eibach spring at 650 lbs and TRD BAJA 700 lbs I am debating staying with in PRO specs (Toyota's offering) or going full on ICON, FOX or Kings lift. I have to comp for bumper weight and any other accessories I add to the front. I am glad you found a fix for the front end problem and thank you for sharing it. Will continue watching, to see your changes.
My 2013 regular cab 4x4 has the same vibration. When it’s cold and you pull away from a dead stop when first driving it on deceleration I feel a shaking vibration and then it goes away totally. Very weird. Did you ever get rid of the vibration?
I have a 2017 offroad 2x4 tacoma no lift @ all original tires & looks like the same height as your truck, I really dont think its worth spending over a couple grand with lift & new wheels that looks practically near stock of how mine looks. What did you ever find out with the vibration that was going on was it the drive line U joints?
LOL... truck owners crack me up... "Tacoma is not a great fuel economy TRUCK"... news flash... trucks don't get great fuel economy PERIOD. 18.0 city and 22-24 highway is PHENOMENAL in a rig. It's not a hybrid, or electric truck for Chirst's sake.
All of the domestic brands offer full size trucks with better fuel economy than the midsize Tacoma. Given its size and power output the Tacoma's gas mileage is bad compared with other trucks.
I hope u used a tapered 1" spacer block on the rear!!!!!! Cause they sell those stupid block that are the same size all the way across...it needs ur diff spun up towards the transfer case. If diff is pointing straight out. .then ur getting vibrating from ur U-joints....or u need a very small carrier bearing spacer....which I doubt...it sounds like the 1" spacer isnt tapered!!!!!
One more thing....that year had a bad U-joint recall off the short drive shaft to the carrier bearing...so the U-joint closes the carrier bearing going to the back of the truck...is bad!! They were from the factory.....but if u have less than 60,000 and Toyota didnt install it .....ur warranty is history.....which to me is a bunch of shit....cause everyone lifts a Toyota sooner or later....let me know if I helped in anyway!!!
The fuel economy problem of the tacoma is that its engine is under-dimensioned, although 268 hp are good power, the truth is that the torque(278lb/ft) is too low for a vehicle of such dimensions, therefore, although it delivers its power quickly, it is too little engine force, therefore a lot of this force is demanded, and consequently, it consumes a lot too. I am from Chile, the tacoma does not arrive here, but its sister the Hilux arrives, the Hilux has a 2.8 turbodiesel whit 177hp and 332lb / ft of torque. This makes on the highway at 60mph do 40mpg !!!, and at 80mph do 30.5mpg !!!. Practically twice the fuel consumption of the tacoma, and with the same weight. This is only because the diesel engine, although it is slower, generates more torque, therefore you must make less effort to move the vehicle. The solution for this problem is simply: Put a turbo diesel engine, or put a smaller engine with better compresion and a turbo. PD: A Toyota 3.5 Turbo Diesel engine would be a dream, it would probably have very good performance, 24mpg at 80mph, about 250-300hp and 450-550lb / ft of torque, but is only a dream :'c
I didn't hear you say anything about extending your steering shaft? That will hurt down the road. Also, drive shaft angle is different. Your taco will turn into a grinder.
Hey guys I have a 1996 v6 4x4 auto tacoma with 265/70 r17 on mine. Basically all stock except k&b coil over shocks, k&n intake and flowmaster muffler. Should i go back to stock rims/ tires because I feel like it had less power and economy than stock tires... just curious, thanks.
Its the constant debate of form vs function. If you prefer the way it looks I'd probably leave it, but if not, you probably would get some more power and better fuel economy going back to stock.
Nice truck, that'll annoy you if you can't resolve. I suspect a Toyota dealer will recommend returning it to stock. I like the Tacoma but the C channel frame rust thru issues keep me driving a Honda.
Here is a good read on the C channel, published in 2015 it mentions how the design carries forward to the 2016 models. www.exploringoverland.com/overland-tech-travel/2015/8/26/thinking-outside-the-box
Jimena Gulla a quart every thousand miles? Jesus man that's not normal at all even for Hondas. I know many honda owners and they're very pleased. That's odd
I did a 6 inch lift and drive 100 miles a day. I love my lifted tacoma,other than the damn abs kicking in with sharp right turns. Check out my video. Gotta go big if u want attention brother lol
I have a 2017 4runner SR5 PREMIUM 4x4 I need a lift. Do spacers give u a ground clearance or looks only? Because bilstiens are like 1k for the 2.5" front and 400 for rear....
If the vibration goes away when you engage 4WD then the problem is your needle bearing located in the front driver side diff. Very common on Tacoma’s after lifting them. You will need the ECGS bushing in order to fix your problem. Hope this helps. Keep us updated.
Adrian Soliman my regular cab has the same issue. It has a pretty good rake to it no lift. It’s been like that for 50k miles and has never changed. Sometimes I think it might be getting worse but not sure. 265/70/17s on method nv wheels.
Ujoint angles have to match. When you space the rear axle, the u joint at the axle(pinion angle) and the one in front of it are at different angles, causing harmonics at certain driveshaft speeds. The angles have to match(or be very close) to cancel each other out.
After replacing the CV joint for the third time, I asked myself the same question lol
So don’t lift it ?
did a similar lift. dealer installed. rides perfect and under warranty. good for you!
how much did they swindle from u on that job?
I would think using blocks is like putting a platform under a ladder instead of getting a taller ladder? There is a physical difference there that doesn’t quite fill the void because the platform isn’t part of the actual structure.
What if the ladder is bolted to the platform?
Spacers compress the front coils that are on your factory struts. It does stiffen the ride, it is just a subtle amount. You didn't maintain crap, it just isn't as noticeable as a lifted strut would be.
You have to be careful with that vibration usually that’s an indication the axles differential angle a little off. In the short term probably not gonna causing problems but down the road could lead to some issues with the powertrain. With certain vehicles when they’re torquing it back if it’s not close enough to spec that vibration can happen. It’s usually a good indication that the vehicle is not happy with its new angles. Before you add larger tires putting more stress on the vehicle take it to a professional suspension lift shop they can tell you right away driving it what the problem is.
My fuel miles not even close. My sr5 best was 19.5 at 75 mph. 80.0 18.00.
My 18 trd with a shell 18.5 at 75.mph. 17.9 at 80.. stock suspension. Oh wait could be California crappy gas.
Any lift I don't care what brand of componets are used once truck is lifted it will lose the original factory settings not the same anymore, the slightest pitch changed on the driveline doing a suspension lift will change the driveline angle degree, vibration is felt which is wearing the bearings of the U joints also with many lifts the alignment is off from what the stock was no matter how the alignment is set after a lift it will never be the same so expect early tread wear, I just bought used 2017 tacoma offroad 4x2 with lock diff & I asked myself do I want to put up with all problems as I mentioned after a lift I say noway I will keep it stock with less headaches..
eh vehicles are being engineered with these issues in mind already. most trucks for a 6 inch lift doesnt even affect the carrier bearing or u joints at all. after 6 inches is when you gotta really start replacing stuff or youre gonna tear shit up.
3 inch lift is too much. Carrier bearing spacer will help. If you don’t go off-road 5100’s at zero with Eibach progressive springs will make you very happy. I am going with King 2.5 all the way around on mine. I do go off-road all summer.
i see your parking has improved
Differential spacers and drop spacers for your center carrier bearing on your drive line will mitigate vibration.
youre good man, the spacers are making your struts rebound harder and faster, thats expected with a spacer lit. youre stacking something on top of your strut, youre making the strut easily compressed at any given moment. same with the leaf spring spacer. making the strut or shock compress faster and rebound harder. this is why you see people getting lift struts and replacing their spacers. as for the looks every 4wd 1/4 1/2 3/4 and 1 ton truck comes 2 inches taller than its 2wd counterpart. its a factory lift basically. i liffted a 4th gen explorer, im asked all the time why and my response is, its paid for, why not?
is this for real?
Yeah, you need to add a spacer to the diff to drop it down slightly so the CV angle is back to factory.
I too feel it has to do with the pinion angle (when ever you lift a vehicle your basically bringing the axles slightly closer to each other). Whether it is the front or rear differential or if the angle of the CV shafts is also effected is the debate. Each truck reacts differently based on height. That same lift might not cause vibration on another Tacoma while another one may have more symptoms.
Yes, I've read similar... doesn't make it an easy solution unfortunately.
Thanks!! I’m looking to do this in my Tacoma
That's what I want
To keep the stock ride quality
Don't off road much and stiff isn't appealing
Agree that why I just want to do a wheel and tire set up. Hate the stock set up
I could tell almost instantly this was filmed in bend ha, I’ve seen a few rigs with RC spacers around
I’d put money on it’s the needle bearing! Like all lifted Tacoma’s , you need to add the ECGS bushing when lifting
I'm leading toward that based on what I've read in several online threads.
I have no doubt it's your needle bearing, but you can find out for sure by turning your 4x4 on while it's happening. If it's the needle bearing, the vibration will go away in 4x4. Just based on your description it definitely sounds like the cuplrit, and it's often more pronounced when the weather is cooler just like you described. Good thing you don't offroad or those spacers would likely cause your shocks to bottom out and snap like i've seen many times.
It's sound like the dreaded rumble strip issue with Tacoma's and 4R. Check out the Tacoma and 4R forums; search rumble strip. Had it with my 2016 4R and they changed that needle brg and it kinda went away. I think it's the drive shaft destroying the needle brg and Toyota does not want to change drive shaft out under warranty. There is Toyota service notice on it.
@@jerryrichards9107 it is the needle bearing... common prob. for the tacoma. I had 3x. all the same, did the mod, CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING mod. eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html
Going with a 2-1 lift myself this week.. nothing wrong with spacer lifts.. I ran them on every truck I owned with no problems at all.. I have a ATV to go off road and trash. I’m not going to put an almost 40K truck in the places I 4 wheel 😂.. Why would ya want to put $1000+ lift on and never take it off road.. spacers are fine! Don’t listen to most of these people that try to sell ya something you don’t need 🤷🏻♂️by the way nice Tacoma 👍🏻
How did it go. I want to do a 2/1 on my 2019 double cab
GTboosted went awesome looks so much better IMO. Added 1.25 wheel spacers & 265/75s also. No vibrations yet but still less than 100 miles on it.. I’d recommend it👍🏻
@@Klperformance68 that's crazy. What a coincidence
I ordered 265/75r16s and 1.25" wheel spacers a couple days ago
Good to know that there is no issues. Did you do the install yourself or had a shop do it. If so how much?
GTboosted did the install myself. It’s easy enough with basic tools & general knowledge. There are videos of the install on here that can walk ya through it.. 👍🏻
Have you towed with this setup yet? If so how was it?
I mean this constructively - but I’ve been driving lifted trucks for 35 years and coil spacer leveling kits on an IFS truck are nothing but trouble. Wether that trouble starts immediately or x miles down the road - they are not a good way to do it.
You need to go all in with a mild drop bracket lift of full blown wide track front end. And if you do, you will give up nothing other than the MPG
Not even ride quality?
Do a carrier bearing spacer to fix vibrations
It’s your carrier bearing. When that is binding you can always tell by putting it in 4wd. If it goes away it’s the bearing.
You're correct. I am also going to go with a diff drop to be safe.
@@DrivenCompanion I got a 2015 tacoma PreRunner Sr5, from the ground to my front fender is 35” and rear is 37 I just want to lift my truck higher on the front maybe 3 more inches and nothing on the back. I’m not planning to do any off-road, mine is a 2wd, just want to lift it for looks. It’s my first truck and honestly I have no knowledge on lift kits, body lifts and things like that. What do you recommend? Thank you.
Awesome content! Thanks for doing!
Yea, I think I'm bot going to lift my Tacoma. Just maybe upgrade to slightly bigger tires. I don't use my truck for off roading either.
Spacers/blocks are extremely frowned upon. Puts your suspension in a huge bind. Wears out your parts extremely fast. Makes your front suspension basically not existent with zero damping from over-loaded springs. It’ll feel like you have 900lb springs on there. Or no suspension for that matter. Honestly I don’t like the 5100s either. They do the same thing. Overload your springs. N basically are silver 4600 shocks that come stock. Solid beginner route would be the Fox 2.0 series coilovers and rear shocks for not much more then 5100s and same $ for a 5100/OME set up. Easy swap out. Keep your stock units in tact instead of tearing it all apart. Then a 3 leaf pack for the rear instead of blocks. Step it up $400 and you can get the standard 2.5 Fox coilovers that you can convert to extended when you rebuild them if you decide to add UCAs. Same exact shock as the high end stuff. Just missing the resi and adjustments. Good middle ground would be Fox 2.5 coilovers and 2.0 rear shocks for 1-1.5” lift with 265s. Or step it up and get the extended version with UCAs and 3AAL pack for 3/2 lift and 285s. Def would be night n day difference over spacers, 5100/OME, toytec, 6100/5160 setups. For around the same price. With the 2.0 coilovers your pretty stuck though. With the 2.5s you have the option to make them extended later if you want more lift and UCAs for $400 over 2.0s. I’m tired of seeing people with horrible lift decisions lmao. Or getting 5100/OME when they could’ve spent less for Fox 2.0s.
Iv been looking for a video like this for months. Thank you!
This is just about the worst way to modify your suspension. Preload your springs and lose all your travel. Not to mention cv angle isn’t corrected. About to ruin the needle bearings and your drive shaft vibration is obviously too much
Good Vlog! Do you think the lift changed the drive shaft angle at the transfer case causing the "humming " sound.
I did a 3/2 lift on my old tacoma and the drive shaft snapped. Soo on my new one I got got a drop bracket to bring the drive shaft to a stock angle. Live and learn I guess
Thanks for the video..I also bought a 2016 TRD bout a month ago??? It has 68000 miles want to do the 2inch rough country in the front, my question is did you buy the truck new have you had any problems with it??? Cause I see videos saying 2016 and 2017 Tacomas have issues, bought mine because apparently consumer reports states that the 2019 tacoma have a little more issues than the rest...again thx for the video....
Bilstein 5100 ride height adjustable front shocks $98.00 each 0-2.5 and $200.00 install and alignment,, everything Ive head about front spacers is not the best way to go,, Anyway thats what i did 2" in front, and with the 5100 in the back for my 2013,, no Issues with vibrations, And don't cut the rubber boot off your 5100's in the back.. Nice Truck
Are those blocks in the rear symmetrical? Or is there a left and a right? Can’t you grind those so the rear axle is tilted up at the front? Wouldn’t take much at all.
I was wondering if he wanted to minimize the effects...
I got rid of the vibration by adding the rear driveshafts spacer
A lift will NOT change the fuel economy. Only if you add bigger tires will it change the fuel economy. You can get suspension lift kits that are stiff or as soft as you want. A leveling kit will never change the ride quality.
Lift a truck will change aerodynamics. It's taller and more surface area will be caught by wind
Why would you think fuel economy would be affected by a superficial lift the only effective change you have made is a slight change in the driveshaft angle
This just seems like a noob mistake. If you're only looking for looks then it's not bad on your wallet but those blocks do no justice to ride quality, and I don't know where you got your info, but you're wrong about billsteins vs spacers, and blocks vs leaves. Block/spacer setup is the cheapest and worst way you can lift your vehicle. You will get a better ride with the other more expensive setup. A shame to put a $50 "lift" on a $35k vehicle imo. Then again I've had a few off road vehicles and value function over appearance now. And the ride is shitty compared to stock don't lie lol.
malaihiboi actually..... your wrong, spacers, and blocks won't ruin the ride, the suspension geometry remains the same, just lifted, and bilstein 5100s have the same valving as the stock shocks and struts. If you really want a good suspension, icon, Fox or kings you have to spend some big bucks....
Jimena Gulla If you're gonna debate me get your facts straight. You don't know what you're talking about. I didn't say ruin. I said it is the cheapest and worst way to lift the vehicle. And it is. Ask anyone who's gone from stock to blocks, then from blocks to a proper lift. It makes the ride feel like shit because it wasn't designed to add blocks on top of an already tuned suspension. You don't need to do icon, Kings, or Fox's either to get a better ride than blocks. The most popular one is the Old man emu springs coupled with the Bilstein 5100s and the Dakar leaf pack in the rear.
Jimena Gulla youre fucking dumb dude. when you lift or lower a vehicle you ARE CHANGING THE GEOMETRY of the suspension. thus you need to replace components that are impacted by this change.
malaihiboi people dont realize that when you add strut spacers youre compressing the piston easier making your rebound greater. this is what gives the truck a bouncy ride. i got 2 inch strut spacers all around my explorer and the only real difference in ride quality is the rebound of my factory struts. im thinking about those rancho loaded 2.5" struts. thats all thats offered or my 4th gen explorer unless i want to get a $30k loan and go long travel.
I have the same setup and "HAD" the same problem....but I bought the truck with the vibration...but I fixed my problems and it rides just as good if not better than a new one.....
The infamous Toyota frame recall. Look it up. Toyota's frames rusting into and breaking in half like a taco.still as new as 2011 having troubles. Toyota doesn't honor recall on frames that has any modifications lift kits or rock sliders it gives them a way out of paying.
jack hook that’s been remedied. The company they bought the steel from did not treat them properly and Toyota sued the hell out of them and that’s why they gave pretty much everyone in the north East a new frame.
@@greenhenderson7165 still having trouble all the way up to 2011 and if u did any modifications to ur truck lift kit rock sliders Toyota used it for a way out and didn't honor their recall.they also had this same problem in japan with their frames.
@@greenhenderson7165 this started in late 60s and ran up to 2011 we know of that's a very long time for a very serious problem before trying to do anything about it. And then to nit pick and try to find excuses not to make it good is just like any company's corporate greed.i had a 93 pickup Toyota that folded up like a taco.i never recieved any compensation for it.
Up in NH I’ve never seen them put up much of a fight I see them still doing them all the time
@@greenhenderson7165 consider yourself lucky then.
2018 TRD Off Road long bed: I'm planning on going with a Toytech spacer lift kit, 2" front and 1.5" rear. This leaves some rake and should reduce the change in the driveshaft and differential angle. Any thoughts on this approach? Also, should I consider a differential drop just to be safe? I hate vibrations.
Your vibration is probably flat spots on the tires that come out after a short drive
I'd like to level mine out but I've taken a decent hit on mpg just with small tire upgrade. Went from stock TRD OR tires and rims to 275/70 17 and lost 2MPG. I'm on the fence on doing a bilstein 5100 level but I don't know if it's worth it.
Tires will have more impact than the leveling kit. Here's my experience: ruclips.net/video/ilkfouPjM4c/видео.html
Was lifting my Tacoma a mistake? No......Was lifting my Tacoma with blocks and spacers a mistake ? yes. Youd love what upgrading stock suspension and leafs will do! No question it would be an improvement in handling etc. Dakars leaf springs will feel 100% better than a block for towing
chris ledue agreed! Should have done his homework
Why do you get so close to the camera?
Thanks for honestly sharing your experience, nothing worse than enhancing your vehicle only to have issues afterwards. I’m new to the Tacoma world, I used to play with sports cars on the track but I’m old and my reactions aren’t what they used to be so I thought I would give off roading a try as it appears to move at a much slower pace.
These are pretty amazing trucks in stock form and I won’t be in a hurry to modify mine until my skill set increases, from reading these comments I would probably spend the extra money for a decent four corner suspension upgrade, I’m sorry your having trouble with the vibrations.
From a performance perspective the only reason you should lift a vehicle is to fit larger tires, and that's only the second best way to fit larger tires. If you did it purely for aesthetic reasons then you deserve whatever it costs you in terms of efficiency loss and additional wear.
Great video!! Want you to continue without accidents! Please don’t feel you have to look into camera while driving! Makes me nervous and would feel better if you just looked straight ahead!! Thanks!👍
Haha
I lifted my 2016 with a 4 inch BDS kit with 265/65-18 tires I average anywhere from 15 to 16.5 stop and go city driving. Long distance like 45 miles one way I get 17 to 18 I'm trying to get some info on if going to 4:88 gears will add some gas milage
How can you say the ride quality is the same when you’re reducing the travel with with a puck and block lift?
Question, Mike. I’m getting a 2021 Tacoma trd off road 2x4 in a few weeks. I’m debating spacers as well, but I have the same concerns as you about ride quality and performance etc. I don’t like the stock set up of the wheels and tires. I do want a better looking stance though. So I wanted to change out the wheels and tires to give a little beefier look. With stock suspension can I go to a 265 70 17 Toyo OC 3 tire and a 17x9 wheel with a 0 to -6 offset (stock is +25 offset) with no mods....trimming or cutting etc.??? I don’t mind the “rake” I just want it to look better than stock. Thank you
I think you'll be good but not 100% sure how the -6 offset would affect things. Also, I highly recommend you go 4wd if you ever plan to offroad or go in snow - not only that but resale value will be much better.
@@DrivenCompanion agree but I live in Las Vegas Nevada where that isn’t really an issue. Insurance in cheaper as well plus the price. Over 2 k less. I had an 04 taco trd 2wd and sold it within 24 hours. There is market for 2wd because of the good weather here. If I went with 0 offset and 5 backspacing or less I should be fine correct??
Maybe a small diff drop would help. Your drive line angles have slightly changed.
Definitely a possibility
Mike C I bought the same parts. I have not put mine in yet.
That’s what I’m thinking. I’m going to lift my regular cab 4x4 soon and see what happens. I’m going to use a diff drop and change driveline angle.
per ready lift's website. NOTE: FOR 2016-2018 MODEL TACOMA'S UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. Some 2016-18 Tacoma's may experience a deceleration vibration. If your truck has the "Crawl Feature" transfercase and only has a 1" stock rake between front and rear, you can use the kit but do not use the differential drop spacers.
NOTE: Our objective is to have your truck sit level or slightly below level. Each truck is different so the amount of lift achieved may vary between 2.75'' and 3.0'' in the front. TRD-equipped trucks often have less rake compared to a non-TRD truck. Measurements on some customer's trucks have revealed as much as 1.0'' difference in the factory front end height. Some earlier model Tacoma trucks came factory with a 2 leaf plus overload rear spring pack that had sagging issues. Toyota is replacing these packs with a 3+1 rear leaf pack. Trucks with 2+1 packs will want to take advantage of this new lift system that includes a 1.0'' rear lift block for a complete lift wall the way around and a stance which will give approximately a 0.5'' rear to front rake.
NOTE: In some Tacoma applications Toyota made minor changes to the Tacoma upper control arm suspension geometry. In some cases adding a leveling kit MAY affect the ability to correct the caster alignment to within factory specifications. If you have a 2011-2014 Tacoma with a leveling kit and the caster alignment specs cannot be put back to factory your truck will require an aftermarket Upper Control Arm with adjustable caster/camber.
I did trd sport just leveling with bilstien 5100 with just inch and half on front only. It’s the stupid mistake I could make. And I put 285/70/17. My fuel economy average is 13 to 15. I don’t really care about ride and fuel mileage. But that Alginment jut can’t have the steering center. I would never ever do it again. On 2017 trd sport. Dealer that’ was the best way to go bilstien
There is nothing more beautiful than a 30 year old bone stock Toyota Truck thats been properly maintained. Keep it stock.
I saw another video and they said it was some small plate turned the wrong direction
...probably not drive shafts.
2'' is nothing to the drive shafts they are still working within the range they were designed to run.
If you like the way the truck looks then go ahead and get a 4-wheel alignment done.
Go to an off road shop, most dealerships don't understand or by company policy always recommend going back to stock.
My guess on the vibration is the axle CV joints.
To fix this you probably need a Front Diff Drop Kit.
A real off road shop can help you with this.
You really will be better in the long run to get a complete lift kit.
But you can still make this less expensive setup work.
Just get it right before you damage othe components.
By putting the spacer in front you increased your shock length (don't hit any bumps to hard...some have busted their shocks). Wouldn't that also reduced your shock travel (more pressure on spring)? Usually the diff. problem with a lift is over 2 inches but, that maybe why Toyota 2 inch lift is actually 1.75.
Yes, I was hoping to avoid the issue by going 2 inches. Shock travel is not reduced with a spacer because it just sits on top of the full assembly. With the bilstein 5100 setup you reduce travel by reusing stock coils with a new shock.
The spacers move the entire shock down, but don’t lengthen the shock. The suspension arms will be at more angle, causing a change in roll centers and center of gravity. So the handling will feel different and roll overs will happen easier in panic situations.
FYI, I just notice some have videos that posted that by adding the spacer you make the overall length of shock longer (it is longer in order to get your lift see...ruclips.net/video/nk6gjcVxvl8/видео.html....) and the shock will bottom out before the bump stop can work, ...unless you put in larger bump stops. If you don't hit anything hard to bottom out, you shouldn't have a problem. But there is always a drop or pothole you didn't see until to late.
With the bilstiens you could have run OME, Eibach/Toytec and other manufatures make different rates in springs to use your full shock travel. ex. stock spring mid 500s lbs , TRD PRO 600 lbs, even an Eibach spring at 650 lbs and TRD BAJA 700 lbs I am debating staying with in PRO specs (Toyota's offering) or going full on ICON, FOX or Kings lift. I have to comp for bumper weight and any other accessories I add to the front. I am glad you found a fix for the front end problem and thank you for sharing it. Will continue watching, to see your changes.
My 2013 regular cab 4x4 has the same vibration. When it’s cold and you pull away from a dead stop when first driving it on deceleration I feel a shaking vibration and then it goes away totally. Very weird. Did you ever get rid of the vibration?
CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING mod. eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html
I have a 2017 offroad 2x4 tacoma no lift @ all original tires & looks like the same height as your truck, I really dont think its worth spending over a couple grand with lift & new wheels that looks practically near stock of how mine looks. What did you ever find out with the vibration that was going on was it the drive line U joints?
Ended up needing a new needle bearing and that solved the issue.
LOL... truck owners crack me up... "Tacoma is not a great fuel economy TRUCK"... news flash... trucks don't get great fuel economy PERIOD. 18.0 city and 22-24 highway is PHENOMENAL in a rig. It's not a hybrid, or electric truck for Chirst's sake.
All of the domestic brands offer full size trucks with better fuel economy than the midsize Tacoma. Given its size and power output the Tacoma's gas mileage is bad compared with other trucks.
I hope u used a tapered 1" spacer block on the rear!!!!!! Cause they sell those stupid block that are the same size all the way across...it needs ur diff spun up towards the transfer case. If diff is pointing straight out. .then ur getting vibrating from ur U-joints....or u need a very small carrier bearing spacer....which I doubt...it sounds like the 1" spacer isnt tapered!!!!!
One more thing....that year had a bad U-joint recall off the short drive shaft to the carrier bearing...so the U-joint closes the carrier bearing going to the back of the truck...is bad!! They were from the factory.....but if u have less than 60,000 and Toyota didnt install it .....ur warranty is history.....which to me is a bunch of shit....cause everyone lifts a Toyota sooner or later....let me know if I helped in anyway!!!
It could be your drive shaft. Look in to getting a one piece custom one that should take care of it.
The fuel economy problem of the tacoma is that its engine is under-dimensioned, although 268 hp are good power, the truth is that the torque(278lb/ft) is too low for a vehicle of such dimensions, therefore, although it delivers its power quickly, it is too little engine force, therefore a lot of this force is demanded, and consequently, it consumes a lot too. I am from Chile, the tacoma does not arrive here, but its sister the Hilux arrives, the Hilux has a 2.8 turbodiesel whit 177hp and 332lb / ft of torque. This makes on the highway at 60mph do 40mpg !!!, and at 80mph do 30.5mpg !!!. Practically twice the fuel consumption of the tacoma, and with the same weight. This is only because the diesel engine, although it is slower, generates more torque, therefore you must make less effort to move the vehicle. The solution for this problem is simply: Put a turbo diesel engine, or put a smaller engine with better compresion and a turbo. PD: A Toyota 3.5 Turbo Diesel engine would be a dream, it would probably have very good performance, 24mpg at 80mph, about 250-300hp and 450-550lb / ft of torque, but is only a dream :'c
I didn't hear you say anything about extending your steering shaft? That will hurt down the road. Also, drive shaft angle is different. Your taco will turn into a grinder.
Did you install your lift? If so, do you have a video?
I installed with a friend but unfortunately didn't create a video.
What is the brand of your roof rack? Yakima? Thule? Or some other brand?
It's a Yakima rack. Here is a link to the install video if you want more info: ruclips.net/video/GPTqdi4RTco/видео.html
Mistake?? YES!! Of course...
How’s it tow the R pod now ? Looking at doing the same with a 2 in the rear. I also have a R pod and tow a lot.
We decided to sell the R-Pod in part because we didn't like how the Tacoma towed it and didn't want to buy a larger truck...
Mike C bummer selling the R pod. Thanks for all the Tacoma videos!
Why not just 2 in the front? Dealer pushing 3/1?
I didn't want to go overboard, and wanted to maintain a bit more rake.
I like the look of the 2-1. Did you get any increase in ground clearance in your front differential?
I would lift mine only for off road purposes
the change will come more with tires.
I was worried that might be the case...
Hey guys I have a 1996 v6 4x4 auto tacoma with 265/70 r17 on mine. Basically all stock except k&b coil over shocks, k&n intake and flowmaster muffler. Should i go back to stock rims/ tires because I feel like it had less power and economy than stock tires... just curious, thanks.
Its the constant debate of form vs function. If you prefer the way it looks I'd probably leave it, but if not, you probably would get some more power and better fuel economy going back to stock.
Oh alright thanks. Im gonna eventually go back to stock for better mpg, thanks
Thank you for all the educational info re: Toyota Tacoma’s!
should have went to shackles in the rear, vibe is from rear joint angle
looks good with that lift. i like more subtle mods
How much did it cost you for that lift?
$60 for the front spacers and $100 for the rear blocks
The cheep way is the wron way it drives like crap now
Does your long bed have crawl control?
Yes, all TRD off-roads come with crawl control
Mike C except for manuals
Nice truck, that'll annoy you if you can't resolve. I suspect a Toyota dealer will recommend returning it to stock. I like the Tacoma but the C channel frame rust thru issues keep me driving a Honda.
Here is a good read on the C channel, published in 2015 it mentions how the design carries forward to the 2016 models. www.exploringoverland.com/overland-tech-travel/2015/8/26/thinking-outside-the-box
My wife's crv burns oil like a 2 stroke, Honda claims it acceptable to burn 1 qt every 1000 miles, last honda well own...
honda trucks are lame
Now you're wrong twice.
Jimena Gulla a quart every thousand miles? Jesus man that's not normal at all even for Hondas. I know many honda owners and they're very pleased. That's odd
Yep need a diff drop kit 40 bucks..?
CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING mod
Atkinson cycle is where your vibration is.normal.
I have a 2016 tacoma trd sport and the mpg sucks. 19 highway and as low as 14 in the city😡
my lifted silverado gets 12mpg stop complaining
Body lifts and spacers are crap.....get a nice suspension lift and you will be amazed.
I upgraded the tires on my 2017 TRD off Road Tacoma to the All Terrains K02. 265/75 and the gas mileage has dropped about 1.5 - 2 MPG
Sounds about right. They’re not only more aggressive, but they’re also heavier all-seasons.
Lift a 2nd gen!!!
You should PlasiDip that blingy front grill.
I actually like the bling. I know I'm one of the few...
ok
Does lifting your truck negate the warranty?
I'm sure it negates the warranty related to the components it effects but we will find out today when I take it to the dealer!
And the answer is yes... more to come!
Is it your speedometer on dashboard accurate after you lifted? If no any recommendation to fix that?
are you serious about this question ?
thought a true level would be a 2/0" ?
I did a 6 inch lift and drive 100 miles a day. I love my lifted tacoma,other than the damn abs kicking in with sharp right turns. Check out my video. Gotta go big if u want attention brother lol
I have a 2017 4runner SR5 PREMIUM 4x4 I need a lift. Do spacers give u a ground clearance or looks only? Because bilstiens are like 1k for the 2.5" front and 400 for rear....
Yes, they will give you added clearance. Tires will too.
Spacers will only give you vehicle body ground clearance. Only way to get underbelly clearance is increased tire diameter.
You added a shit lift, you got shit results. Better lift, dropping driveline will give you better results.
I am also debating a leveling kit! voodoobluetacolife19 💙🌮
Great looking truck!
You buy garbage you get garbage.
Man Toyota spend millions on these set ups and you guys come along.😂😂
those tacos ride incredibly well
Why so serious
💯🔥👌
I would think spending that much money on that useless little truck would be your mistake