Sorry guys but this is "shadetree mechanics". One example= Hi perf engs run warmer. Your UPGRADED THERM Increases OPER TEMP FROM ABOUT 150⁰ TO 180⁰. You dont want to run it "as cool as possible" as stated on your video. WORDS MATTER. GET IT RIGHT
Nice! Every compound and pad I use for paint correction is Chemical Guys brand. From their CG32 cutting compound to their detailer spray. And the stuff smells awesome.
Draining the reservoir isn’t really going to stop the coolant from coming out of the thermostat opening. You’d have to drain the system completely which is almost pointless for this job since you’ll have to get a ton more coolant to fill and bleed the system. A little bit of coolant on the belt isn’t a big deal, you can clean it off or after the first rotation of the belt/pulleys it’ll mostly be gone. Of course if it isn’t just use some belt cleaner and get the excess off.
What’s up with the noise you hear from the engine at 1:50 into video? I have the same noise was told it was because of the bov that I install. Is there a fix ?
So what is the temp at now under normal driving. Just curious because I figure the fans will still wait until 220 or so to come on unless you have 5 star recalibrate
160 is too cold. Your thermostat is always closed and never hits the lower limit threshold temperature of 170 that the truck is looking for after a certain amount of time. The PCM sees this stop in temperature increase. Anything less than 170 and you'll throw a CEL for P0128. P0128 = engine coolant temperature is below the thermostat regulating temperature. Usually points to a cold/dead thermostat or a leak. If you live in the tropical zone of the US then you should get a 170. If you're in the temperate zone of the US, then get a 180. But if you're in Canada, Alaska, or somewhere else in the freakin' Great White North, then you should just leave your factory one in. Sucks for you that you have to change it again, but it's a good lesson for everyone else that reads this. Basically, you took one for the team.... don't get a 160, kids! Keep it at a minimum of 170.
You can upgrade the radiator but we only did the thermostat. The stock radiator is pretty good. If you plan to push some serious power I’d say upgrade the intercooler
This is about the only video that I've seen that has same housing as mine, which I think started with gen2 3.5 ecoboost for 2017 and later. You guys have a bit different intake, but how did you get the driver side bolt out? My hands are big, and I can't get a wobble extension or ANYTHING to work and am starting to get really desperate
Thank you! And tbh snug I kinda have a feel for it from working in the industry for a while, but I’m sure there’s a tq spec you can go by. But white nuckle will be perfect!
NAG3 it’ll help keep your temps down, it’s a cheap part that you should do especially if you live in a hot area. It’ll allow you to run it harder for longer periods of time. If you tow, drive long commutes etc.
Abel S550 GT thanks! And actually the numbers were within the normal range but we decided to change out the thermostat as a precaution. I’m sure if we really beat on it with the stock thermo it would be higher temps than normal
Ratchet Wrenches what were the actual numbers? My 18 3.5 can run anywhere between 215-221 normal highway driving, if i do some pulls temps can go into the 230’s they come back down quick but still, i am swapping the stat as well and getting the tune changed for the fans to come on sooner hopefully that keeps temps lower
Abel S550 GT thanks man I really wish I could help but I can’t remember the numbers exactly. I just remember they stayed where they needed to be ya know?
Definitely check out more of this badass truck!
Sorry guys but this is "shadetree mechanics". One example= Hi perf engs run warmer. Your UPGRADED THERM Increases OPER TEMP FROM ABOUT 150⁰ TO 180⁰. You dont want to run it "as cool as possible" as stated on your video. WORDS MATTER. GET IT RIGHT
Helpful thanks!
Nice! Every compound and pad I use for paint correction is Chemical Guys brand. From their CG32 cutting compound to their detailer spray. And the stuff smells awesome.
Thanks and yeah they make some good products
Link doesn’t work. Would u happen to know where i can get this one ?
Thanks
Your car is now why did that if the factory engineers know the car and designed it
I’m planning on doing the same to my ‘19 3.5
Thanks for the how to.
Awesome! And no problem at all! Feel free to subscribe and check out our other tutorials for this truck!
Why not just drain the reservoir before you do that to avoid the mess and possibly getting coolant on the Belt?
Draining the reservoir isn’t really going to stop the coolant from coming out of the thermostat opening. You’d have to drain the system completely which is almost pointless for this job since you’ll have to get a ton more coolant to fill and bleed the system. A little bit of coolant on the belt isn’t a big deal, you can clean it off or after the first rotation of the belt/pulleys it’ll mostly be gone. Of course if it isn’t just use some belt cleaner and get the excess off.
What’s up with the noise you hear from the engine at 1:50 into video? I have the same noise was told it was because of the bov that I install. Is there a fix ?
Cam phasers. Should be covered under powertrain warranty.
So what is the temp at now under normal driving. Just curious because I figure the fans will still wait until 220 or so to come on unless you have 5 star recalibrate
5 star recalibrated it to 195 but we don’t even pass 200 anymore
I installed my 160 thermostat from 5 star and having troubles with my tunes throwing codes. P0128 and a active shutter code U2 something now.
Interesting I’d reach out to 5 star and see what they say, because that shouldn’t happen
160 is too cold. Your thermostat is always closed and never hits the lower limit threshold temperature of 170 that the truck is looking for after a certain amount of time.
The PCM sees this stop in temperature increase. Anything less than 170 and you'll throw a CEL for P0128.
P0128 = engine coolant temperature is below the thermostat regulating temperature. Usually points to a cold/dead thermostat or a leak.
If you live in the tropical zone of the US then you should get a 170. If you're in the temperate zone of the US, then get a 180.
But if you're in Canada, Alaska, or somewhere else in the freakin' Great White North, then you should just leave your factory one in.
Sucks for you that you have to change it again, but it's a good lesson for everyone else that reads this.
Basically, you took one for the team.... don't get a 160, kids! Keep it at a minimum of 170.
Did you guys upgrade the radiator and thermostat? Or is the thermostat upgrade all that is needed?
You can upgrade the radiator but we only did the thermostat. The stock radiator is pretty good. If you plan to push some serious power I’d say upgrade the intercooler
This is about the only video that I've seen that has same housing as mine, which I think started with gen2 3.5 ecoboost for 2017 and later.
You guys have a bit different intake, but how did you get the driver side bolt out? My hands are big, and I can't get a wobble extension or ANYTHING to work and am starting to get really desperate
Good video. This is the only one I could find for 2017+ 3.5l thermostat replacement.
Did you tighten the bolts to a specific torque or just snug?
Thank you! And tbh snug I kinda have a feel for it from working in the industry for a while, but I’m sure there’s a tq spec you can go by. But white nuckle will be perfect!
@@RatchetWrenches its 89 in.lbs +45 deg on the 2018. Probably the same for the 2019.
Nicely done once again and again!
Car guy Mike 👍👍
wht if my car isnt tuned what will the benefits be ? i live in the desert so...
NAG3 it’ll help keep your temps down, it’s a cheap part that you should do especially if you live in a hot area. It’ll allow you to run it harder for longer periods of time. If you tow, drive long commutes etc.
@@RatchetWrenches awesome ! thanks for the reply! i was reading the raptor forums i was like god did i make a mistake ?! thnx again
NAG3 no problem! And hahah
Very helpful video. Before the stat change how high were your Coolant temps getting? Specially after some wot pulls?
Abel S550 GT thanks! And actually the numbers were within the normal range but we decided to change out the thermostat as a precaution. I’m sure if we really beat on it with the stock thermo it would be higher temps than normal
Ratchet Wrenches what were the actual numbers? My 18 3.5 can run anywhere between 215-221 normal highway driving, if i do some pulls temps can go into the 230’s they come back down quick but still, i am swapping the stat as well and getting the tune changed for the fans to come on sooner hopefully that keeps temps lower
Abel S550 GT idk man it was so long ago I can’t remember off the top of my head
Ratchet Wrenches 👍👌 helpful video seems like a very easy process
Abel S550 GT thanks man I really wish I could help but I can’t remember the numbers exactly. I just remember they stayed where they needed to be ya know?
Sounds like you have cam phaser issue on startup.
No issue using the prestone coolant over motorcraft/other approved coolants?
Nope no issues!
@@RatchetWrenches good to know, hard to justify the cost of motorcraft vs Prestone
Ummm that bolts into the water pump not the block
Which ultimately bolts into the block….
Awesome!!
Lazzz E thank you!
Did you need to recalibrate the tune?
Nope no recalibration needed