2011+ Ford F-150 3.5L GTDI Ecoboost Engine P0299 Turbo Underboost Quick Diagnostics
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- In this video we show you what to check before replacing expensive Turbos.
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This is the Vacuum/Pressure Tester I Recommend:
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Latest Ford Blow Off Valve (2013+)-
amzn.to/3yv0GCy
Forscan is free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
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ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
thanks i will order the mityvac today
Teacher can you do a video please for a diagnostic in a ford f150 3.5 whit code.p0035.
Its 2019
Is there an software/app that allows me to use my Smartphone as My code Reader? Either APK or IOS? I’ve seen some Diesel stuff like this, but nothing “Forscan” specific.?
The intercooler i would repair with high strength long cure epoxy once i had cleaned with brake cleaner washed with dish detergent / hot water dried and sanded prepped correctly it would last . Its is used in hvac repairs were welding cant be done easly . In Canada the intercooler would be double + the price for sure . The key to epoxy is propper prep
Nothing like a mechanic who knows how to diagnose a problem rather than a mechanic who only knows how to replace parts.Great video as usual Brian.Thank you Sir.
When I did service work we called them shotgunners replace enough parts and you will fix the problem,not very talent but eventually you might get it fixed and they still didn’t understand how they fixed it
@@stephenthompson1319 We call it the parts cannon at work. Just blow enough parts at it until it finally works.
"Mechanics" are most of your parts throwers and tire/brake/oil change jockeys. A good 'Technician" is what this guy is. Actually diagnoses thoroughly and properly and then makes his repair.
Ya i wish i brought my ecoboost f150 to this guy instead of ford 3 times for the timing chain rattle. Just found out Im only 30 minutes away from his shop
This is the issue i had a ford dealer i took to changer mechanic rather than a mechanic that fixs
Great Video. And Thanks. I went straight to the Blow Off Valve and had the same issue. Hole in the Seal. I would not have spotted the small hole without knowing it was a common failure. First inspection it looked ok, then I pulled on it to reveal the hole. Thanks again for the valuable post.
Thank you for all the in depth videos. Very helpful. I spent all day yesterday changing out all the fluids under my F150 it has 88,000 miles on it. I couldn't believe how black and nasty the fluids were. So thank you for the heads up on not going by the manual intervals of when to change fluids. Thanks for saving me lots of money down the road. Have a great day Sir.
That is very good explained. Will see if I ever get that code in my shop, but if I'll do, I'll now what to do. Thanks
Thank you! As usual, a great detailed how to video. You are a blessing to F-150 owners.
Awesome video Brian…really helped me in fix my 2013 F150 3.5L that had P0299 code!
Just as you suggested…my blow off valve had a hole in the diaphragm!
For other DIYers...when I replaced the blow off valve on my truck, I did some extra steps that helped me:
1) I removed the underbody wind deflector to give me more room to maneuver under the truck
2) I removed the resonator mounting screw allowing me to rotate the resonator up counterclockwise
while still attached to get better tool clearance to remove the blow off valve screws
Like Brian predicted…I broke the left side screw in process of removing my old blow off valve. The screw I used for replacement
was Ford part number W507065-S437 ... get quantity 2 to mount your new blow off valve with new screws.
Took me 25 minutes to complete the job including removal and replacement of the wind deflector.
I cleared my code and started the truck….no check engine light and had turbos again!
Thank you my man!!! That valve must have had a twin... Mine was torn same place. I did job without pulling anything out but it took some patience to remove the bolt on left as you look up. A flex neck and 8mm on 3/8 drive, an extension and lots of prayers and patience got it out. I did notice the screws are alluminum so I can see why they twist and break. Thanks again!!!!!
Wow I’ve learned so much watching this! I have a 2012 Ford F-150 Fx4 ecoboost with 186k and I want to go over everything! This helped so much! Thank you!
Did you ever see a performance improvement by chance? A buddy of mine has a 13 eco boost and really blows mine out of the water
THANK YOU for posting this video! I've had an intermittent CEL which then became a steady light recently. I've noticed power has been down, especially when towing. I was dreading an expensive turbo repair, but using your video, I was able to start checking for leaks and quickly found a torn valve. It was an easy an inexpensive fix - actually surprised how power is fully restored now!
Lucky you, I was told to replace turbos
Was it easy to do.? Just bought a 2016 and after getting on the gas the check engine light comes on and lack of power.. code says turbo under pressure so I'm assuming it's same thing. Or hope it's only that
@@marckirby7356 Yes, the job isn't difficult. This video shows exactly how to do it. My local Ford dealer had the part in stock so that was also nice.
@@yandia8336 ty
Great timing on releasing this video. Had a 14 Escape with 1.6 .with p0299 . Pulled TCBY off of turbo and found it stuck in . Parts department says only comes with $1100 turbo.
@behexen250 Should be another way to replace that part without purchasing the whole unit. Ripoff!
Aren't we lucky to have Brian on are side...thx Brian...
He’s amazing and I will never get tired to watch his videos
@@JuanBMedina so true...i'm. Retired mecha nic and still learn from his experience...
I would adopt him.
@@TherealTony_Chin lol...
I have been able to work on issues on my 2004 F 150, if not for Brian, I would never have attempted!
Imagine spending all that money for new turbos and it doesn't fix the problem.............
My worse fear.
Very appreciate your knowledge exactly the same problem a tear on My valve on a f150 3.5 2017.
Very informative, recommended for anyone with this code. Nothing like tightening up a boot or doing a simple sensor or valve cleaning/fix instead of a spendy shop diagnostic fee.
You are a true asset to ford owners.
Don't have a ecoboost but definitely quilty info 👌🏽
You are a true talented mechanic hard to find nowadays. I wish I could have you working on all my vehicles
I recently joined your channel have learned a lot and really appreciate many of your videos & just realized yesterday that we have the opportunity to subscribe & get actual benefits in the form of ideas & feedback... I have a 2013 F-150 screw XTR 3.5 EcoBoost. Started intermittently losing boost a couple months ago Way under powered But seems to have at least partial boost in the mornings & random times throughout the day. The first two codes I pulled when it started was p0299 and p054A or B the cam/crank correlation code is no longer active & I can't find where I wrote it down & don't remember if it was A or B. Today it throws p0299 and p0016. I had a shop that I trust Do the full timing and cam phaser replacement ~2 years ago. No cam phaser rattle only pass side turbo wastegate rattle. Both wastegate diaphragms work smoothly & no linkage slop. Actuator solenoid tests ok. Initial look @ BOV appeared ok. Cleaned all 3 MAF sensors. Replaced bank 1 cam sensor A (intake?). No leaks. The change in codes from the start to now leads me to believe the issue might be in the VVT's But what also threw me off is after changing that cam sensor & cleaning the 3 intake air sensors it ran with more power than I think it ever has + no boost loss for full day of driving & then started the intermittent loss of boost the next day again. I then replaced the MAP cuz it was the only one of the 3 sensors that didn't look good and I thought maybe cleaning it improved the issue temporarily... No fix. The P0016 and previous P054A? led me to believe the noisy pass wastegate wasn't the cause and had to be in the electrical or valve train. Any thoughts besides Holy Sh*t this guy can ramble? Lol thanks for your time.
I just went through this with a customer that had a timing job done with aftermarket parts and 6 months later p0016 p0299. If you are getting a p0016 code it is causing your p0299 intermittent boost loss issue. A p0016 requires a timing job plain and simple. The Ford stuff last much longer. I am sure the shop used aftermarket. The 54 code is the VCT solenoids every time.
Nice. Some folks work for money others are enthusiastic to get it done.
Wow... Brian, I found some clamps loose. At least three were fairly loose. Also, found the air deflectors (for lack of the proper name) that keep the air directed to the radiator that are on the left and right sides of the radiator in between the headlights torn at the point the plastic push tabs hold it to the radiator shroud. Thank you for the advice!!! Next I’ll check the sensors to be sure they are free of dirt/ oil buildup.
I know very little about working on cars but when my under boost code came up I came to RUclips before going to the dealership. $50 and 10 minutes later, my 2015 F-150 ecoboost is like new again and no check engine light. Thank you for the video!
What did you find wrong and how many things if any did you replace?
Monty, there was a hole in the blow off valve. Prior to this, I changed spark plugs, cleaned fuel injectors, cleaned all the maps sensors.
@@adammccullough218 Thank you do much for your help in guiding us novices. Did you use CVC/CRC (sp?) for sensor cleaning?
What is the name of the harness that connects to the pressure valve?
The same exact thing happened to mine. The dealer replaced one of my turbos (under warranty). Still had the leak. Ended up being the $50 blow off valve. Haven’t had the code since it was replaced.
Did the code keep coming back until it was fixed? I'm wondering if I had a weird event happen that caused the code. I cleared my code and it hasn't come back for over 2 weeks
Just replaced the BOV on my 2013 3.5. Had a similar ruptured diaphragm. Hoper, won’t be seeing that code anymore, thanks!
Very good to know. By the way I saw "the crack". Thanks.
Yup it's there.
Thank you for saving me thousands of dollars!! Never been so happy to see a little tear in my life 😂. Went to the dealer for the P0299 code and of course they didn’t actually diagnose anything and just wanted to immediately replace the expensive turbos 🙄 asked them to explain how they knew they were bad and they made up some lie about “the wastegate being so loose he could move it with his fingers”. Obviously, not true. And even then, I asked well why not just replace the wastegates themselves then? “We can only replace the whole turbo assembly” …gimme a break!! Appreciate your videos a lot! Can’t trust anyone these days… might as well learn to do things myself
Huh weird? I’ve got 315,000 miles on my 2012 f150 ecoboost (original turbos)never been replaced !. Over 200k of those miles are towing miles 🤷♂️
Yup some are troublesome and some have no issues I know what you are talking about.
FordTechMakuloco I think that goes with everything and I’m sure there are a lot of different factors if they go bad
Shed Hunting Worldwide just bought a 2020 F-150 with the 2.7 ecoboost. I hope I have the same luck as you sir 🙏🏻
Tim Schultes I hope you do too !
Man I have seen a lot of Automotive Repair Video's on RUclips, Your Videos are the BEST, Very Clear and your instructions are Super Clear also ! Thanks
Just had this code come up today, checked the EBOV and did not see any rips or tears in the membrane, drilled the weep hole as well, also have dual catch cans. no mods other than a boost gauge
Kudos to you Brian for pointing this out. Makes you wonder why Ford or the aftermarket doesn't offer a stone guard for our coolers!?
Wonder if you could line x that aha
I had an underboost code awhile back, and this was indeed the case. Now that I'm turning up the boost I wonder how much pressure this stock valve will take. I didn't want to go full out on a Turbosmart mechanical BOV, but now they make an EBOV, so I'm very tempted to try that. Have you seen those in person by chance?
That's a video for all the part changers out there. Great content!!!! Keep them coming.
I’m having a problem with a 14 f150 3.5 eco boost. if I drive easy it’s all good! if I step on it at all it sounds like it back fires into the intake. Goes into limp mode I can stop shut it off and it’ll start after two tries and drives normally as long as I don’t step on it. And it’s not throwing any codes? Do you think it’s the Throttlebody or something to do with the TB? Thanks
Thank you very much for this video. I got a CEL for low turbo boost pressure while traveling in the Rockies recently. Went through all your steps and found that my blow off valve had a hole in the diaphragm. Luckily I was able to get a new one at a local dealer, throw it in and enjoy the rest of our vacation with plenty of boost in the mountains. This was most likely what I was hearing previously (mooing sound while accelerating) and the thin air in the mountains made it more apparent. Thanks again for the help.
Great seeing your videos again man! One stupid question, maybe stupid...:
Why didn't they just make the compressor and turbine bypass valves to stay closed by default and only use the solenoid and actuators to open the bypasses when the computer commands them so when releasing the accelerator pedal (cause only then you want them to open to not put stress on the turbocharger assembly by bleeding off unneeded pressure and avoid a compressor surge)? I mean..., why did they think these upside down? It's a safety concern (mostly during overtakes) to be sure that you don't suddenly loose power when it can save you from an accident. Why did they design the bypasses to be always open and only start closing when you go apply acceleration over a given value? This can greatly increase the wear on the actuators and also cause these types of issues that you mentioned of not having them seal properly when closing? I agree to think that most of the time you maintain a rather constant speed which even at cruising may not require boost pressure and the atmospheric pressure should be enough to keep the AFR where needed for the required power and yes..., there's the fuel consumption which is also slightly lower when the bypass valves for both compressor/s and turbine/s are opened, simply because there is less gas flow resistance on the turbine blades (friction and pressure resistance or drag if you will) which also causes a bit more friction on the compressor-turbine shaft assembly which adds a further soft braking of the shaft, hence a bit higher drag on the turbine. I've personally tested this a couple of times on a leveled road with no wind and fixed speed and the fuel consumption would decrease by some 0.2L/100km while driving at 80km/h, bringing the instantaneous consumption (cause this is what tells the performance) from 3.6L/100km to about 3.4L/100km (I drive a 1.0 125hp Ecoboost Focus in Europe) when those valves are opened and the consumption rises back by that amount when completely closing both. So, yes, I could also confirm that there is a difference in consumption based on the state of these valves and I was able to do this on the road with my personal scan tool which allows to play with various inputs to the engine while driving.
From my opinion, as an engineer, I would find these to be more fail safe by always being spring loaded closed and only open during coasting or simply releasing the throttle pedal OR when you select an ECO mode which indeed would activate the actuators to hold them opened constantly when no boost is needed, exactly as they are doing by the current design. I mean, they could've thought what I've just said in order to have them last longer and keep the Ford's long lasting name of cars built tough which should last more.
I had the same code in my 2014 3.5 ecoboost. All the hoses and connectors checked out fine. I pulled out the pressure relief valve and didn’t see any noticeable tears in the diaphragm, but I ended up replacing it anyways. After clearing the codes, the problem never came back and I have the turbo boost back. Moral of the story is just because you don’t see a tear in the diaphragm, doesn’t mean the valve hasn’t failed :)
I appreciate this comment This is very reassuring since this has been my thought for a little while now... I too did not see a tear in the diaphragm and I'm about to change my BOV out we'll see
Did yours fix it?@@andrewmock75
I've got a 2016 f150 3.5. My turbos went, Ford replaced them, and they blew. Then replaced again, 2nd set now, and this time, I've got no power uphill forward or backwards. When I get moving on level ground, it runs fine. Ford hasn't figured out the problem and have had it for 3 weeks now. I believe it's the 2nd set of turbos, as it didn't have this problem until this set of turbos were put in. The dealer won't replace the turbos till Ford tells them to do it. I'm frustrated.
Very thorough! Good stuff to check, especially if you aren't experienced with turbocharger systems... Some cheap easy fixes can be misdiagnosed as an expensive repair.
Or intentionally misdiagnosed . it's hard to give anyone benefit of the doubt.
Good video, thank you
Hey Brian I have a 2011 3.5 EB I have a afe stage 3 cold air intake that came with the truck.I have gotten the truck looked at and one turbo is bad on the passengers side is leaking oil but I hear a howling or suction noise coming from the intake. I have check the actuators of the turbos and both hold pressure I even checked the diaphrams from the side of the turbos and they are both in tact no cracks or cuts. But I still can’t find where the howling is coming from. After a cold start you can hear it howling then is gets to normal idle and it’s gone until I put it in gear and accelerate or when I let off the gas.
Brian, can you speak to 11-12's that have boost solenoids at each turbo, and the vacuum tubes to each port? How those fail and how they work with the WG solenoid on the manifold, and also speak to the failure rate of the BOV diaphragms on the 11-12's?
I've been getting hesitation under a load, towing, etc, then got the P0299 code.
How about where we can get parts during the pandemic since most places are back ordered? Thanks you
Salvage parts off a low mileage wrecked vehicle might be the best bet
Ok so those are on the compressor housings and have the same style rubber diaphragm. There's a hose that comes off that bypass valve port to the CAC tube. Use pinch off pliers on the big rubber hose to block it off 1 bank at a time. Usually there's a weird noise associated with a diaphragm failure on these. You can power brake and build boost as well without driving. Whichever side you pinch off and the noise goes away, bingo! Easy to replace too. 3 screws and a triangular plate comes off and the diaphragm will come out with the spring too. Good luck to you.
And we have them at the dealer.
@@MrImportcartechthank you 🙏
Great video! I had a p0299 on my 2015 Ford Expedition at 78k miles due to a hole in the blow-off valve diaphragm (looked exactly like the one in your video). Much cheaper repair than turbos!
How do you do a smoke test?
Good Afternoon. THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting these videos.
I am having a problem on my 2011 F150 Eco boost. It started with the exhaust leak on the driver's side manifold. I have a buddy who is a mechanic and I was in a previous era. We replaced the manifolds and all included gaskets and rings. Also did the timing chains as the truck has 149,829 miles. After work was don, truck fired right up and idles like a dream however driving is very wavy and threw a P0299 code. I've checked all the tubes and lines and can't seem to see a problem. Since this is a 2011, it doesn't have that blow-off valve in the charge air cooler.
We are at a loss. Do you have any video's of "older" Eco boost diagnostics???
Have you gotten it figured out?
@@NASAxDRAGZ nope. Just towed the camper 1300 miles. Every time we got a long grade or steep hill, 2nd gear pulsing. Gonna replace the turbos when we get home. I don't know what else to do.
@@cookdonald so odd… I found a disconnected hose form the intake to the throttle body seems to have somewhat fixed the issue, but I’m not 100% sure yet. I wish you luck man!
@@NASAxDRAGZ I'll check that in the morning. I'll let you know what happens in the way back
@@cookdonald goodluck!!
Another great video. Looks like having a smoke machine would help in diagnosis here.
Question, do these Ecoboost engines need walnut blasting or some other intake valve cleaning procedure as maintenance? I don’t remember you ever mentioning it.
I bring it up, because every other newer engine these days seems to need it.
I’ve been seeing a lot of these go bad. Did smoke test of the intake system on a Taurus show and f150 and found a tiny tear in the orange seal which caused the issue.
What's a smoke test and how do you do one?
Monty smoke test through where the airbox lid is.
I found this repair applicable to a 2017 expedition with the 3.5, pulled the blow off valve from the intercooler and found a small tear in the orange seal was causing only an under boost code with no noticeable loss of power, great info for sure.
I'm a ford dealer tech. I 2nd this video. This guy is spot on. I only do driveability issues. Seen this several times. I dont even follow the pinpoint test anymore.
Pinpoint testing is a waste of time for ford warranty to waste time and get the customer frustrated.
follow makuloco instead 🛌💤👀
My 2016 expedition just started throwing the under boost code at low rpm/high throttle. Thank you for the checklist to look at.
Ebov is the primary culprit
@@RadDadisRad Ebov?
Brian, Thanks.. Same issue on my 2013 F150. Ripped diaphragm on the blow off valve.. Having trouble finding the part. Any suggestions?
thanks for the video! by any chance, do you have a link to order spare bolts? a friend of mine may have snapped one in half 😂
Ramble on Brian...I’ve learned so much watching you to help me maintain my own 2012 EB.
Thank you very much big help!!
Thank you for the video! My 2013 was giving me that exact code and since i already had the front end apart to change the water pump i took off that bypass valve and sure enough it had a hole. It seems allot of people in the comment section have similar issues. Is that valve a dealer only item? I've been looking online and cant find other sellers having it for sale. Edit: here is the part number for the turbocharger diverter, air bypass valve, AA5Z-9U465-A If you search by the part number you will find sites that have it for half off the dealer price, if you are not in a hurry to replace it.
Thanks Brian your the best! You're making it a little less painful to own an Eco-suck. Have had to make 7 turbo system repairs in under 80,0000 miles. Guys...never buy an Ecoboost. "EVER"!
Brian is doing the Lords work..
Hi Brian, I'm considering buying a T350 ecoboost 3.5L passenger van with 187,000 miles for $14,500. What should I make sure the mechanic checks before. I notice a used tow pkg. so I know it pulled something. Also, Do u think it's worth that price?
64 years young and want to set out solo traveling in an affordable, but yet SAFE vehicle! On SS Disability and can't afford a new. Your opinion is greatly appreciated. 😊
Brian, I can only surmise this question was to intense or you didn't have the time. Sorry to have bothered.
I always thought any oil in that system is bad. So how do you know if there's to much.
Came across this great video. I will do some visual checks, but for now, what would cause it to whisle during acceleration only?
Blown exhaust manifold gasket.
If you do the VTA mod you can hear if the EBOV starts bypassing. Makes diagnosing so much easier.
12:58 To remove that broken bolt with a tig welder. Deposit one drop of .045 - 1/16 filler rod to the top of the broken stud/bolt and let it cool for a minute or so. Repeat that process to build a spire with drops of filler rod until the spire is tall enough to grab with pliers. I have removed as small as a broken 6-32 tap using this technique. No need for the cool down between tig drops if not in a plastic part.
Mine doesn't have the bypass in the intercooler but a vacuum actuated bypass on each turbo. I can't find any info on that system though. I have a 2011 F150 Lariat 3.5 Ecoboost.
As much as I like my Ecoboost, can't wait to get an EV.
What’s an EV?
@@blackshirt5530 Electric vehicle. I bought a used Ford Focus Electric. Saving over $200 per month on gas.
Good to know 👍😁
13 and up f150 have those, 11-12's are made on turbo.
Yes I clearly stated that in the video.
This was the exact problem I just had, found the issue in under 5 mins thanks to you and this video, bought the part and now to wait for a few days for it to get in. Saved a trip to the dealership and the ungodly amount of money they would’ve charged to troubleshoot and then to mark up the part 100% on top of that. Ordered through your link on Amazon and was a touch under $50 and will be about 20 mins total of my time. Thanks again! 2014 with 59k miles
Really like the ELMconfig ohp with FORScan software, compared to Bluedriver. Bluedriver was OK for Mode6 to be able and read Coil Misfires per cylinder. The FORScan with ELMconfig will read BARO in frequency Hertz, compared to Pressure kPa or PSI. Question about BARO on 2 different vehicles Ford 2004 F-150 FX4 with 180,000 miles reads 152 to 153 hertz at 1000 feet above sea level, oxygen sensors 12 and 22 read about .76 volts or steady. Mercury Grand Marquis 2002 4.6L with 105,000 miles 2 valve reads BARO 160 to 162 Hertz and oxygen sensors 12 and 22 steady about .77 volts at also 1000 feet above sea level. Do you think Catalytic converters on 2004 F-150 FX4 5.4L are becoming clogged up?
Update:
I saw in your Engine Replacement vid that the new engine had CAST IRON tensioners. I just purchased the Timing Kit with the Plastic Tensioner, if you are still doing these timing kit jobs would you USE the CAST IRON tensioners??? Also about Catalytic Converter, Post oxygen sensors are reading steady voltages flat line compared to Pre oxygen sensors, at the Exhaust Manifold exit I measure about 450 degrees Fahrenheit and after the catalytic converter measure 650 degrees Fahrenheit. Changed oil every 3000 miles and fixed coil packs as soon as they started miss firing, used Quick Trip gas, truck has 181,000, think CATs are OK? If doing the timing kit job was considering replacing Exhaust Manifolds, but they aren't making the cracked manifold sound? Looks like it my be easier on the passenger exhaust manifold to raise the engine by removing the passenger motor mount bolts, fan and shroud and Air Plenum, then jacking up engine, saw you vid?
Thanks, for informatión ,i am a mechanic in México
awesome video. I just replaced that part on my '13 F150 (140k miles) a few weeks ago. I typically get that code when I tow my travel trailer. knock on wood, that takes care of it. I used some stainless steel bolts instead of screws on that valve. I find it funny that they provided a second set of holes to use. keep up the great work.
Same issue for me under same condition, but at ~70k. The second set of holes is for when the rusty screws break in half when attempting to remove them. And yes replacing this valve solves the problem seeing as the old one will have a hole in the diaphragm that is visible to even a blind mechanic!
Also during this part install I did a flush of my CAC and woah did it have lots of oily crap in it. Runs better, mpgs went up a bit, overall good fix.
Now the cold idle is another story....Brian please do a video investigating that.
I know this video is old but new to turbos. Have a 2015 f150 3.5. Question the pcv valve, is it suppose to have a little play in it or is it suppose to screw in tight. Engine light comes on code says pcv valve issue or crankcase pcv forget which one. Any help is appreciated plus gonna check everything he said to look for.
New subscriber here and sooo happy to have found your videos! I like how articulate and to the point you are 😊
We have a Ford Escape with the Ecoboost (turbo charged) engine. What do you recommend using to clean the air filter sensor and other items you say to "check/clean? I have WD40 spray, Brake Kleener, Simple Green, Kirkland (Costco) commercial strength degreaser, and a air compressor with several blower fittings. The escape was a lease return but I do not think it was maintained very good. Changed the cabin air filter (using your video, thank you by the way) and looked as though it has never been replaced, lol. Thank you for your advice! ~Annie
Don't use a y of the above to clean the air sensors. Use a spray specially made for cleaning those parts, like crc mass air flow sensor cleaner
@@JasonW. is that a can with a red and white colored label? I think my husband has that in the garage also. Thanks!
Been awaiting for someone with knowledge to reply. Gooe searches haven't provided that information unfortunately 😕
@@dagdernit572 the CRC brand name will be in a red colored area on top of can. Make sure it is for mass air flow sensor, and not some random can of CRC as they make a lot of sprays for different purposes.
@@dagdernit572 I was waiting for Brian to reply.
Do you have a video on waste gate flutter on what it could be. Wastegates open and close in moderate throttle No codes and how to sync the 2 wastegates.
Very nicely done.
YOUR VIDEOS ARE AMAZING!!!! Thank you so much. Another code resolved.
Thank you so much for uploading this video. You have not only saved me money but you also allowed me to keep my sanity. I was sure my turbo's were on their way out. But now that I saw this video I immediately pulled that valve out and replaced it and my truck is back to it's snappy elf again 🙂 Cheers!
Me too! I've been following him since he was working for the dealers and this kid is one top notch auto technician!!!
Eco-crap! What a plumbers nightmare. 5.0 Coyote is the only long term power maker Ford builds.Oh..and the new 7.3 gas pushrod motor.
I have a question for you, lately ive been seeing a ton of 03-07 4.0 v6 mustangs and explorers that the computer is faulty. the failure is with the computer setting a bunch of false codes related to bank one and two upstream and downstream o2 heater ckt ,egr ckt, purge valve code, and the ac relay ckt codes. When checking all circuits they will be ok. They pcm has failed internally. I wanted to know if you have seen this issue. I know its common for the coil drivers to fail but this is not my case.
Awesome video and really detail on the diagnosis couldn't find any video that really diagnosed the problem and you went on and beyond to explain it . This is why I became a subscriber on your channel Brian ! Keep doing the good work my man...😁🕵
This video just saved me a bunch of money. The large hose for the air inlet coming out of the turbo had popped off. Check engine light came on during a 400 mile trip, and the truck was running like crap. Put the hose back on, tightened the hose clamp, and it’s the best the truck has run since I bought it 9 months ago. I think it was working itself loose for a while.
My 2013 f150 had the same hole in the blowoff valve at around 80k miles. Good call checking this before buying new turbos.
Such a great video I really appreciate it my question is when you’re cleaning off the sensors do you like to use brake clean or a different spray solution let me know if you get to this and thank you so much you might’ve saved me from the shop.
Edit!!!!!!
Jackpot it was that valve I have a tear in the diaphragm and almost the same spot I’m going to get that ordered and replaced and we will see how that works out I will clean all the sensors out but after watching this video 20 minutes later under my truck I had that sensor out and that’s the problem I can see for now let’s hope that’s the only one.
I have that code and a loud whining noise when accelerating I'm also losing power. I can't take my truck to a Ford dealership for 2 to 3 weeks as there backed up. I'm trying to find the problem hoping that I can fix it. My question is do to the whining noise are my turbo shot and need to be replaced? Ford is so expensive and not all that trustworthy in my opinion.
Ps. I'm also getting a p0073, & p0035 is it possible I took out loovers in the front grill to install a hitch receiver to add a front winch. It had a plug to operate the loovers which I couldn't put back. Could this be creating my problems?
Also, do you have to take the intercooler out to check the BOV? Or can you unscrew it while still in the grill?
Brother thank you! The bypass valve was the issue on my 2016 Expedition. Question for you. I was using a K&N filter, which as you know, is oiled. When I replaced the valve I cleaned the MAP sensor and the other inline air sensors and replaced the air filter with a paper STP one (it was the brand the auto store had) my thinking being that perhaps the oil used on the K&N filter may not be compatible with the diaphragm in the boost valve and could cause it to fail prematurely. Do you think there in any merit to my thought or is the oil K&N uses safe for the Ford EcoBoost system?
Just saying that I'm so glad I found your videos. I've said it many times that I hate my 2012 FX4, but I'm stuck with it, and these videos are the best by far I've seen. Thanks! You've saved me $$ and time!
Shuttering again, 35 mph or more if give it gas, loses power, CEL flashes, I've had it before. Changed throttle body. This time cleaned it, sensors, new MAP installed, improved for about 15 minutes....changing plugs next. Cheap...to expensive. Heck, I've even changed out the 'brain' in my tranny before.
Great video - thank you
MY READER SAYS TURBO BYPASS VALVE PROBLEM? what do you think
Twice the hoses, twice the clamps, twice the wastegate diaphragms, twice the oil lines, and a big ol' intercooler mounted up front, down low, with nothing shielding it from road debris. What could go wrong? Then there's this gimpy blow-off valve mounted on the back of that. With bolts that rust solid. Thank you again for your videos. You're saving people's sanity, not just their money. Very methodical which is key on a complex beast like this one.
My check engine light came on the other day so I took it to a repair shop to have it checked out today and was told my turbos needed replaced glad I found this video I am going to do some troubleshooting myself before I decide to replace my turbos
Top mechanics know system Description, how everything works and know to isolate, You are Sir , Not a parts Changer/Shotgunning Parts , which most mechanics are, Great Information
Where are u located and the hat do u charge? I have a 2016 Ford F-150 3.5 eco boost...I can drive it but doesn’t have much power, check engine light came on, says it’s turbo A...when I start it, it has an awful sound..what would u suggest, dealership charges too much
Great informative video Brian @FordTechMakuLoco
Thanks!
@@FordTechMakuloco your very welcome
Thanks for the great info. I have a 13 3.5 and found my blow off valve had a hole in it. I was only getting codes or loss off power when towing. I replaced the valve and towing was much better until I got into traffic and I started to get loss of power again. Any ideas?
Does this fix also work on a 2017 mustang with 2.3 ecoboost with a p0299??
What could be the problem if i get the code and the truck is sluggish or it’s sluggish and sometimes doesn’t throw the code, but i can kill it then crank back up and it pulls hard like it’s supposed to?
Do you have the part number for 2012? I can’t find it. All I can find is the boost solenoid
Awesome, awesome job with the video and the explanation/tutorial of the turbo pressure system. I need the blowoff valve, I'm ordering now and have more confidence to do it myself! I'm a fan now. I'm hitting the Like, and Subscribe
First rate video. Great introduction to troublehooting this system. Thank you.
Thanks for your videos. Very helpful and educational. The engine in this video was a 2013. I noticed that it did not have a catch can. I own a 2018 3.5 l. With both direct and port fuel injection. Is the port injection enough to keep the intake valves clean? Or should i still install a catch can? Which can do you recommend? Thanks for your reply and the great videos. Larry in Oregon
The catch can would not be needed as the valves get cleaned at idle. Then again, a catch can won't hurt.
Excellent video, enjoy all your videos.
I just experienced problem this morning.
2011 F 150 3.5 Ecoboost.
Left the house this morning, everything was fine, a couple miles into running….loss in acceleration power, no codes! I’m at work now, not a chance to look over anything yet. When I slowly get up to 60kph, I then get power acceleration. Any ideas?
Wow, I finally know what’s under the hood of my F150! Thanks for the thorough walkthrough.