Last year of 2020 I bought a Ford Transit van with a EcoBoost engine. It's a 2016 model. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about it. It has a twin turbo engine. 310 hp. I'm now subscribed.
8 years later and yes they are oblivious. the 2.0 turbo on the ford maverick still has carbon deposit issues. they need to follow Toyota's example and actually care about building a good engine. they need dual port and direct injection.
My apologies up front for the wall of text. Let me start with a thank you for posting these videos on the carbon build up as so many owners have no idea and nealry all of the auto manufacturers are turning a blind eye to this problem. Owning a 2.3 DISI Mazda engine with a largely FoMoCo content I'm familiar with this problem on my car. You brought up a couple of the key issues contributing to this issue the PCV system and oil but there's more to it. As you eluded to in a previous video gasoline DI engines from the word go regardless of brand (Ford, Mazda, BMW, Audi/VW, etc) have had carbon buildup problems and while technology has improved by leaps and bounds carbon build up is still a huge issue. Besides the hesitation issues you mentioned owner will also see a progressive drop in power as the available open area of each intake valve is slowly reduced over time. The issue has a few inputs that work together to create the gunk on the valves: - Direct Injection: No longer flowing injected fuel over the valves removes the inherent cleaning designed into port fuel injection systems. - Oil: as you've mentioned it's advisable to use top quality synthetic oil versus semi-syn or dino oil. - PCV system: by recirculating the aerosolized fuel, oil and bypass gasses back through the intake system generally on the front side of turbo to ensure adequate vacuum to create consistent suction. - EGR system: Coupled with above issues now you're adding hot exhaust gas into the intake system along with already high temps from the turbo compression (regardless of intercooler) and you have an oven environment prime to create oil caking. - Lastly is physics: Anywhere in the intake system where the airflow changes direction and/or speeds up the oil is separated from the air and sticks to the surface, hence the carbon build up on the underhead (radius) of the valve. There is only one good surefire way to remove the carbon, physically remove it via media blasting or Ford's current recommendation and terribly expensive solution of replacing the head(s). BMW was a pioneer in development of the media blasting and have a factory authorized pressure pot blaster with attachments to perform the job. Here's a good before and after set of pictures albeit on a BMW it'll be the same on any DI engine. cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200025864-BMW-Intake-Valve-Carbon-Buildup There is no practical way for the average owner to prevent the buildup so removal at some point is the solution. Hopefully all manufacturers will develop cleaning procedures and make them affordable to average owner. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I just bought my Mustang Ecoboost May 23rd and not even 2 days later, my engine check light came on. WTF is what I was thinking. I did a Vehicle Health report and it stated "Urgent Service Required- engine misfire". Took it into Ford and they told me it had the wrong codes. Well 2 days later, my engine check light came on again. WTF and "did I buy a Ford lemon" is what I was thinking. I took it into Ford again. This time gave me a more detailed reason why my engine check light came on. Apparently, Ford has an ongoing problem with this particular code in relation to the problem of the misfire and not to worry about it. But for now, I would have to drive with the engine check light on til they figure out the proper codes. So thank you for the video, it was more help than what the Ford dealership told me. Question, you had mention that if anyone installs an oil catch-can, it would void the warranty. I was looking to do a full tune on my Mustang with the tuner, pipes, cold air intake, turbosmart blow off valve and intercooler. Oil catch-can was part of my full tuning but I guess I won't be installing that now. Will any of these installs void my warranty? Thanks for the input.
I am a Caterpillar diesel generator tech, a lot of times we see that when engines don't run at rated temps and load cause exhaust "wet stacking" or "engine slobber". Could running these engines at high rpm a couple of times in a drive cycle prevent this carbon build up?
Thanks for the heads up. I guess I never realized how much carbon build up these EcoBoost engines produced. Always a learning experience on your channel, that's why I subbed years ago, and why I continue to watch your content. 👍👍
So, I've got a 2014 Flex 3.5L EB. It's only got 5,000 miles on it but I'm going to get it's first change of oil soon and I'll specify full synthetic. I also only use Shell, but I think I'll start using 93 instead of 87. Also, the odd "Italian tune-up" sounds beneficial. I don't want to get to 60,001 miles and have Ford tell me to replace the heads.
Just brought a brand new Focus ST 2016. I'm glad to to have found you!! Great video!! It's good to see that people like you are still around. Great information. Thank you for putting it out here!
How to fix direct injection problems in your pick up? Factory approved method. Step 1. Take a chain and bolt it to the motor, remove engine from vehicle, place in boat, and then throw overboard. 2. Put in a port injected 5.0L v8 3. Go out and have a drink. As always, advice is absolutely free.
That's a good bit of info. I am a new Ecoboost owner 2.7l F150. Great engine so far! I was a Ford Master Technician for about 15 yrs. and I agree with the Chevron Techron additive it works well. However, I am a huge Amsoil fan so I will be running that oil along with their P.I. fuel additive. What you said about the induction service is spot on too, the Ford dealers that I worked for, we would never recommend even the BG Induction Service because we didn't know how it would affect the turbos. The 3.5 Ecoboost was to new at the time. Great info on your videos!
MY belief is that EGR and PCV cause carbon to deposit on the valve easier now and because theres direct injection, now theres no gas coming upstream to dissolve the carbon
+nicholas elias I was thinking his explanation is a bit odd. If the exhaust gas is being allowed to come back up the intake valve, why is it that not all the cylinders intake valves have equal amount of carbon?
I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost. Per your instructions I've switched from Shell to Chevron. Added a oil catch can and I run an Italian tune up at some point every time I drive it. Great information. Good job Brian! Thanks, Brian
Thank you do much for that information I was wondering if I could use a in tank. Injector cleaner. I look forward to hearing more on this issue. Your channel is such an asset to any ford owner
I just got married in December and my wife has a 2014 f150 with the 3.5 ecoboost in it. I have no knowledge about Ford vehicles at all and especially no knowledge about the ecoboost engine. I actually work for GM and have only ever owned GM vehicles in my life. So I have been doing lots and lots of research about the Engine especially. Because I also wanna know my engine as best as I can! And I have only ever had 5.3’s before. And after doing a lot of looking around and watching lots of your videos I have realized that there are a couple known problems with the 3.5’s first obviously being the whole carbon issue and needing to install the oil separator. And second I have found is about the timing chain slipping and needing to replace a whole bunch of stuff to totally fix that problem. The truck has 75,000 on it and just had the plugs and harnesses, all fluids changed just a couple months ago. And we will be pulling a 3,000LB camper with the truck quit a lot. And I was just about to put a new topper on the truck as well as have it rust proofed but before I put another $3,000 into the truck I just wanted to make sure it’s sometime wanna keep with all of the known problems with them. I wanna have a truck I can run to 250,000 like I know I get can out of a 5.3 vortex. And I just wasn’t sure your thoughts? And if I did keep the truck what all do I need to do to make sure it stays running good? I just know nothing about these and trying to learn as much as I can about them! I love the truck and would like to keep it as my wife’s grandma got it for her. But I just know timing chain problems are nothing to mess around with as well as the whole carbon problem with the change of messing up the turbos and other things as well. Thanks so much in advance for your help I’m just really trying to learn this ecoboost Engine the best I can.
I switched from Mobil 1 (semi-synthetic garbage) to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 FULL SYNTHETIC Motor Oil several years ago, once my truck went out of warranty. This stuff is legit synthetic and I still can not believe I am using Pennzoil motor oils...lol. I researched AMSOIL and almost went with it, but was swayed to the Pennzoil Platinum and glad I did. As for Techron Fuel Additive, i know it is a amazing product that actually works, due to me working for Chevron Finished Lubricants back in the mid-90's. But I have steered clear of any fuel additive due to the EcoBoost being a Direct-Injected Turbo Charged Engine.... Will go back to using the good stuff! Many thanks for you taking the time, trouble and effort to put up these videos. I have been making the mistake of drinking my local Ford Dealers Kool-Aid for too long, now God willing, maybe my F150 EcoBoost will run again like it was designed to when it left the factory, all thanks to you and a few others who spread the truth!
In our EcoBoost test vehicles we have found that the addition of an oil separator and water/meth injection really helps keep the engine clean. The water/meth injection has the secondary benefit of increasing performance. We modify the cars fairly extensively, so warranty issues are not a concern.
This is good info coming from a factory performance line. I was thinking something similar and was wondering about the meth injection. I may buy an ecoboost after all.
SVTPerformance So u guys void the warranty from the jump huh? U would think after all these years the blue Oval would trust u guys. kind of like Benz & AMG!
SVTPerformance This seems to be about the best solution so far to combating the inherent issues of a "dry" intake tract. It's my guess that as di/t technology continues to proliferate across the automotive industry oil catch cans are going to become are going to be a standard part of the PCV system system as it's pretty cheap insurance and there's no real down side to them. It may even help overall engine emissions and efficiency as a catch can will contain oil vapors instead of letting them run the combustion chamber and burn off.
Awesome video, very informative.While no one can answer each and all questions for all conditions and situations I think you have done a great job.Keep up the great work.Will be looking foward to the next videos.
My 3.5 twin turbo, 65,000 miles, was sputtering under heavy throttle and we put AC Delco intake and valve cleaner through it, let it set over night as directed, updated the tune, changed the spark plug gap to 35 and she runs like new. Just got it back today so I'll give it a tank full and see if the mileage gets any better than 15.5 mpg.
@Kaffe Stein been using similar combustion chamber cleaner into the intake manifold similar to gm old Kleens mixture ammonia olic acid hydrocarbons in a spray can by Tumbler let it sit over night then change oil and filter don’t drive it hard after as chunks of carbon could damage turbos . So I drive like an old lady for 200 miles after and do it 2 times a year truck runs like new with 200000 miles and uses 0 oil between 4000 mile oil changes ps use good quality 5-30 synthetic oil and hi quality filter
Hello, Thanks for the info. I just drop my 2013 ecoboost F150 in the dealer for Phasors replacement and they said that there is a Ford approve cleaning process using chemicals. Is that true?
to combat the carbon build up on the valve, could I use water on the ecoboost, I've done this with the cars that I had and very good results and problems
Great video. I like my 4.6 Town Cars. I have been driving 4.6 cars for almost 20 years and the engines are still going strong at 300,000 miles when I get rid of them. The 91-95 4.6 Panthers did get carbon build up in the EGR passageway channels. Do first EGR passage way channel cleaning at 100,000 miles, then every 50,000 miles. 96-11 don't clog. I know I will eventually have to update to a newer engine, as my current Town Car has 225,000 miles, but I'm hoping for a Ford Fusion Turbo Diesel in the USA, if no Diesel, then I guess I'll take the 1.5 ecoboost turbo. I rented a 2.0 Turbo 14 Fusion SEL and that thing would do some crazy speeding. Push the gas down at 65mph and you'd be at 100mph in a flash.
Could coating the valve stem with something (teflon?, ceramic?, etc.) prevent the carbon from sticking to the valve? No mechanical engineer here but if the carbon doesn't stick, it can't build up.
Do you believe that the 2nd generation 3.5 Ecoboost engine in the 2017 Ford 150s with "dual" injection (direct/multiport injection) will solve this carbon build up problem?
I want to do the valve body cleaning. my question is the following. with the car off if I move the crankshaft, this does not affect the sensors of the variable camshaft ?. this to be able to close the valves and apply liquid chemical
I have a 2015 with 2.0. I use top tier gas and change oil at 8000km (5000 miles) with full synthetic. No issues with drinking anti-freeze. My mileage is down about 1 mpg from original. I do not have a catch can but had I heard about these earlier, I would have had one installed as soon as the the warranty was over. I saw some of your later videos regarding walnut blasting and I suspect it is the probably the best way of cleaning it - instead of the chemical solution which may be harmful to the turbo.
Love your channel. Very in-depth and informative. You were talking about Ford coming up with an approved cleaning regiment for the carbon buildup... did they come up with something?
Thanks for the quick response. I'm unable to change the oil myself anymore. I now have to take her in for a change and they want around $70 vs $40 for an oil change. love my truck, bit not able to pay that kind of money for full synthetic. I'm worried that I'm not taking care of the motor as I should. the absolute best truck I've ever owned.
If you EVER use non-synthetic oil (even the least bad, Castrol GTX), you are not taking care of your motor as you should. Reason doesn't matter. Other people are talking about fuel quality for whatever reason but these deposits are literally oil from the PCV system. Bad oil has a high NOACK rating and evaporates a lot more than good oil, or even mediocre oil (such as Mobil 1). Always use good oil as the first line of defense against this kind of problem. You can also consider other accessories like the catch can that was recommended, which will catch some of that evaporated oil before it gets back into the intake. Synthetic oils do not simply allow extended oil-change intervals (OCI) - they are an absolute requirement in a modern engine if you want the engine to last. Also doesn't help that Ford dealerships will use that garbage semi-synthetic. Semi-synthetic is non-synthetic, and "synthetic" is often not even synthetic (group 3 oils are not synthetic!) But in any case, if it's not a full synthetic, it is definitely crap, and if it is a full synthetic, it MIGHT be good. That junky Motorcraft semi stuff will get you through your warranty, and that's what Ford cares about, but if you actually want your car/truck to last, you can go ahead and tell them where to put their non-synthetic oil (hint: somewhere other than your engine, maybe one of their own body parts instead). $70 per oil change at 2-4 times a year is, what, $280/yr? How much did you pay for the vehicle? What do you pay for gas? If you can't afford synthetic oil, you're doing something wrong.
I am about to pick up my new 15 3.5 eco tomorrow. I was totally planning on getting 1000 miles on it and then changing the oil to Rotella T-6. 5-40. I run that stuff in every internal combustion 4 stroke I own. Would you really recommend against it? Ive been a mechanic my whole life and like to over analyse all of this stuff. If you could spell out your logic on only using the Pennsoil or post a link to a webpage or video that does I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
I wonder if the majority of the carbon buildup occurs when the drivers lets off the throttle while at higher RPM (resulting in engine breaking). In this case there is little to no boost to force exhaust gases out. Which means the intake side could fill with exhaust. Or another cylinder that is on an intake stroke may actually pull that exhaust through the intake valve.
i have a new 2017 2.7 eb, what do i do to keep this from happening? best way to keep it clean...any new tec i mean because the video answered most questions
quinn boone use a good brand full synrhetic motor oil change every 5000mis . Motorcraft oil & air filters are excellent. I use 89 octane mid grade fuel too. Ford has had much less carbon issues than the foreign brands
The carbon build up is mainly from crank case blow by. To meet emission's they vent the crank case gases back into the intake via the PCV valve to be burned in the cylinder and it cakes the back of the valves. Valve over lap may be partly to blame as well. Port injection cleaned the back of the valves and when they just went straight direct injected the valves no longer where cleaned. The new directed injected fords have both port and direct injection because of this
Excellent advice and tips. I subscribe to a couple of ecoboost specific blogs and a lot of the information on what and how for your vehicle is more likely than not an approved Ford procedure, but hey; that keeps you employed....
What about adding an alcohol/water injector to a vacuum port that could be manually controlled to keep the intakes from getting carbon build up. You could have a switch in the cab and give it a "shot" every so often to have liquid on the back side of the valves!
Did ford ever approve a cleaning method for these vehicles? I'm noticing a lifter-like clicking sound on my 1.5l escape when the engine is hotter under heavy use. Thanks for all the info, I feel like I'll be able to keep my escape for years longer based on your advice. PTU fluid changed last week 👍
I have heard this click as well on my 2014 ecoboost, alot of the info from others say its is the turbo dump gate valves rattling, some have fixed this with a very small light spring on the outside of that gate valve on each turbo putting a slight tension on it so it doesn't rattle, of course this would probably void your warranty as well.
Just had the cylinder head replaced on my 15 Focus ST...seems to be smoother now. I took it in because of a check engine light and figured it misfired, this was the case. Not sure if the head is revised or not, but it sounds much better. Only took a few weeks. That is a shit ton of money if Ford is replacing all these heads. Maybe I should get a Mustang GT. LOL
Great video, is there a way that we can observe the top of the valves with a video probe with a very small head. I can see into the cylinder easy enough but I am more interested in see the state of my valves and the carbon buildup on the valve stem.
I do an "Italian tune up" on my Fusion Ecoboost, once in a while when getting on the highway I put my foot to the floor and leave it there. Lol also use 93 octane.
Hi Brian, I see that you recommend using a full synthetic oil, is there a reason why Ford is still using their synthetic blend? The dealership does all oil changes for me, it was included in the truck purchase.
I have a Focus 2.0 GDI engine. It currently has 240,000 miles on it. I have only used Amsoil 0W-20 oil in it. I am going to take off the intake and look at the valves, and see what I can do to clean them if needed. I am about to go on a 2500+ mile trip in a couple of months. The car still will get over 40 MPG on the highway, so I don't think it is a big problem.
I believe you mean volumetric efficiency (VE) not bi(o) metric @ 8:28. So back in the day before all these other fancy cleaners, guys used to actually use water for the same effect of cleaning carbon from the top end of their motors in essence steam cleaning them. Any thoughts or ideas on how that may or may not work with the ecoboost engines?
+Brian Sendall Yes I said volumetric efficiency I don't speak so well. The problem with water is it is likely to shock the and crack off chunks of carbon damaging the turbo impeller. The new chemicals are made to slowly clean the carbon and disperse them as to not cause any issue whether it be NA or boosted.
Sir---I have just ordered a 2016 F150 XLT with the 2.7 Eco-boost engine. Since this video is over a year ago, can you advise on the latest with this carbon build-up problem? Has Ford come out with a solution? I drive my vehicles until they basically just get so old they fall apart (my current truck is a Ford '73 F-100 360 that I bought new). Since I am 61, this is probably the last new pickup I will ever buy---and I want it to last!!!
Doy Virginia personally I'd look into a egr/ delete.make sure u add a pcv catch can.big difference in the nice solid muscle truck u have 2 the newer electronic,& carbon building up on the intake valve & gumming up the motor!!! As soon as 15-20k miles so I'd get the catch can immidiatly.study all manufacturers & reliability (I drive a Ford) currently sir.so, I'm not blasting Ford but they know the problems many of their auto's are having.i miss the basic small block's! I'd buy a ls motor-chevy!
I use Royal Purple, Z Max, and 93 octane from new. The reason I changed when the car was new is that the car would run funny with the semi-scythe oil, I also use the Z Max as oil stabilizer and fuel injector cleaner there is also a Royal Purple fuel injector cleaner. The car runs like a dream. I have a 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0 liter AWD with a little over 19000 miles. The only problem so far is that it stop starter during this second harsh winter; I had to jump start the car. The techs informed me that it was a under power issue. They check everything and did not find anything wrong just recharged my battery. I think it is mainly because I left the car sitting in the cold for 5 days without driving it. Seem like the does a cycle check and it was doing this draining the battery. I also start turning off my auto headlights and the radio when parked. It has not had any problem since. I want to do an dyno tuning because ( I have not confirmed this yet) I think it may be running rich it really does not get the fuel emissions that its rated for. This may be the reason or a contributing factor to the increase carbon deposits as well as having a small turbine on it. I think ford should require their dealers to have a dyno setup as a part of their maintenance . I have a 7 year warranty but if I take it else where for the dyno testing the out come could void the warranty. So that leaves me not able to do any work on the car until the end of the warranty. Which I am okay with and I really do not believe within the 7 years that any ford dealer will have a AWD dyno to use as part of its maintenance program. I may just go with the answer of fuck it and just do it. I know how to maintain my car to a certain extent but since it is under warranty why bother doing it. Don't get me wrong it would be fun to work on but it is my only car in this location.
Yes, you can. But you have to plug up the hose leading back to the intake manifold to prevent a massive vacuum leak from upsetting the computer settings in the engine. That way the computer thinks that the PCV valve is simply plugged and there's no problems. At that point the oil vapors simply go into the engine bay air and flow away, and don't go into the intake manifold and don't get deposited onto the intake valves. But when you go for your annual emissions testing you have to reconnect the PCV valve for the tests.
I'm getting ready to take delivery of a '22 Explorer ST, and already have a Mishimoto catch can for it. I don't see how a catch can will void the warranty (9:30 mark)? My wife drives an '18 Escape with the 1.5 Ecoboost, probably should install a catch can on that one as well before it's too late...
Thanks for the info. I had my mind set on a 2015 Fiesta ST but after reading through this I don't know if it's such a good idea. I've had many cars before (all normally aspirated and all Japanese) with never a problem (2 for 4 years, one for 7 years and one for 10 years). Reliability is important to me but so is the fun to drive factor. Maybe I should stick to normally aspirated cars ?
Regarding the Italian tune up, VW actually recommend this in their patent to clean the valves. There was even a thread on a forum of someone who took before and after photos that showed the Italian tune up does indeed work
We "old" folks have known this for DECADES. If want a smoother running engine (GDI or otherwise) take it out on the highway AND beat the S**T out of it!
Did ford ever come up with an approved intake cleaning method? When you did your recent catch can install video you did not mention any approved cleaning method.
Yes, i'd like an update video. My neighbor just told me that the ford dealer cleaned the carbon off his valves on his ecoboost for $75. Cleared up all his rough idle problems.
@@cupramir although it is a second generation Ford turbo engine it’s not the same as the F150. To begin with its a 4 cylinder 2.3 with GDI injectors only. There’s a problem with carbon build up. Another big problem is the head gasket they don’t hold up very well. Look into the 8 cylinder coyote.
First get the Government out of the auto manufacturing process. Install a cleaner burning fuel, LP or Natural Gas and full synthetic oil. Then no worries. You will notice carbon has become nearly a non issue after these simple mods.
The "cleaner burning" fuel has VERY LITTLE to do with carbon build up on the intakes. We're talking about carbon on the INTAKE VALVES not the CC carbon! If you REALLY want to eliminate the problem, GO FULL ELECTRIC!!
Lp and natural gas would make a bad wreck a explosion and a leak could be dangerous if I’m not mistaken you have to put natural gas under alot of pressure to be able to get enough volume to amount to anything
I don't own a ford, bit very good info on how exhaust/intake overlap allow good cylinder head exhaust scavenging, but the trade off can be regurgitation, for lack of a better word of spent combustion chamber by products onto.the backside of the intake valve. One of my buddies from high school is a petroleum engineer PhD. He says techron is the only way to go. very good info. BTW us neurotic types are the kind of folk you want doing technically challenging work for you or on you.
A little update. At 5K miles, to help get into a regimen and help a bit with the carbon concern, after some oil research, I decided take my own 5W30 full synthetic oil to the dealer and have them use the specified Motorcraft oil filter. I went with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum PurePlus 5W30 and plan on sticking with it. Also, I purchased an extra fuel funnel from the Ford parts department, one identical to the one next to my spare tire to use exclusively when pouring the Chevron Techron fuel cleaner right before each oil change. The manual stated to use the funnel to prevent damage to the easy fill cap less system, so I will do accordingly. With these three combinations including using Shell 91 octane V Power premium fuel, I hope these will help with the resistance of carbon build up. So far my Ecoboost has been performing excellent, quick to respond and quietly. I do most mixed city and highway driving, with freeway's being my main commute, I do get to drive against traffic in the mornings and evenings so I have opportunities to avoid traffic a bit and punch it from time to time. So far I'm loving my ecoboost engine and Explorer Sport. Thanks again for these tips and videos. : )
I have a 2011 f150 ecoboost that I've owned since 103,000miles. I started getting the timing chain rattle around 137,000miles and decided to do a walnut blast myself of the intake valves much like the BMW guys do. That way scary to do but I can say I have not heard it rattle even once since cleaning the valves. I'm now at 151,000miles. I'm not saying that this is the solution but it got rid of any rattle I had so I'm happy with my results.
I respect your opinion for using Pezoil Platinum but I really would not use that Oil at all. It's not a true synthetic, hell there's a lot of "synthetic oil" that isin't really a true synthetic. The only oils I even come close to using is Amsoil and Castrol. Also that Techron stuff will do no good if it doesn't even come into contact with the backside of the intake valve. The one good thing in your description is the catch can. The stuff those things collect is utterly nasty and not something you need in the engine.
Pennzoil Platinum is a true synthetic. You would know this if you checked their website or read the label. They convert natural gas into lubricant oils in their GTL (Gas-to-liquid) manufacturing process. www.shell.com/energy-and-innovation/natural-gas/gas-to-liquids.html (Pennzoil is a Shell Brand)
I been driving for 45 years you want keep carbon from becoming a problem this is what I do. Check your fluid levels, ALWAYS check the tire pressure go to the nearest highway wait till the engine is completely warmed up and start pushing on the gas, go at least 40 miles over 60 mph. Turn around when you get on the on ramp boot it let it rev rear the redline cruise over 60 mph on the way back home boot it into the passing gear 4 to 5 times. Do this 3 to 4 times a year more if you do 80% city driving. I only use Shell or Sunoco gas. You will notice your engine will run smoother and you will get better gas mileage.
Two Questions: First, It seems as though carbon buildup on the F-150's 3.5L Ecoboost has not been as much of a problem as other EB engines. Is that a fair statement, or am I just not seeing them show up on Google? Second, the 2nd gen EB on the 2017 F-150 adds traditional intake port injection to the direct injection. Ford says those injectors should be running most of the time and the DI only kicks in with high power demands. Do you anticipate carbon build up still being an issue on 2nd gen engines? Thanks, Brian
+Matthew Schaefer there absolutely is a way around it. look at Toyotas D4S technology. Atkinson Cycle. its Direct Injection when more power is needed, then it uses Port Injection under normal driving conditions. all controlled by computer. this way, the valve gets cleaned and no carbon issues. its a simple solution.. I hate it when people say Toyotas technology is no better than anybody else's..
+Matthew Schaefer I happen to like GM. Toyota, GM, NUMMI plant, California. Research Ford sticking has pedals, GM sticking has pedals, Audi, Some dates back to the 80's, 90's, today, and even Chrysler..Toyotas gas pedal issue is irrelevant and has nothing to do with the technology i was talking about. there have been numerous complaints about sticking gas pedals from a lot of other car makers. Don't forget about the key switches shutting off in GM vehicles..
I have a '15 Fiesta 1.0L EcoBoost (bought with 141 miles, now has about 5,500) and I've already started putting some of this in practice. Switched to a top tier fuel (Phillips 66) and have noticed improved fuel economy and performance and will run Techron through it periodically to keep it clean. Just one question: Why Pennzoil as opposed to the Ford Motorcraft oil? Something additional in it to make it better or?
I just installed a throttle body on my 17' focus St 2.0L ecoboost. Install I had to take the intake manifold off and there is definitely oil in the manifold. I could see the intake valves and they had alittle build up not terrible (only 4k miles on the car). I took some GDI intake cleaner and just gave them a quick small spray. I don't drive the car hard all the time but I do get on it from time to time.
Too long of a video? No the longer the better. Gets more information.In my computerized engine controls class we were told Toyota on the new corolla is using a fuel injector that's fired at the back of the intake valves every x number of miles and when conditions are met to help with deposits.I've also heard to use 93 octane every once and awhile to help with carbon on GDI engines. Have you heard of this?
nmattcar I have heard of those hybrid fuel systems also, but when I asked the Ford engineer he stated using premium 93 octane would have no effect on the carbon.
Specific octane 93 gasoline, such as Shell V-Power Gasoline and Costco Gasoline, have 5 times more additives than any other brands of octane 93 gasoline or octane 87 gasoline. Shell's Gasoline Additives include Enriched Nitrogen and PEA in the gasoline. I did use Shell 93 V-Power in my 2014 Subaru Forester Touring once, and the gas mileage improved slightly.
nmattcar yes 93 octane every 3 or 4 fill ups will help! Also use a full synthetic oil ALWAYS. Ford has a well designed GDI system on 1st & 2nd gen Ecoboost. Forget Toyota fallen way behind in tech.
How come you guys only get 93 octane fuel? The minimum in the UK is 95 octane with 99 octane widely available even at supermarkets . At a well know toll road in the Eifel area of Germany 102 octane is available which is very nice.
Brian. As a Ford truck owner (actually have 5 currently with one being an Ecoboost) I can't tell you how many times I've listened to almost all your videos on maintenance. My main issue is the Ecoboost. Yes, I will have the catchcan installed (Team RXP), and Chevron Techron every so often. More importantly though, here we are at almost end of December 2018 and I have not heard of any updates on software of PCM. This was 4 years ago since you put this video out. Has Ford made any decisions on solving our carbon issues?
Thanks for putting this information out there! I always enjoy your videos and have told several others about them. I think your spot on with your recommendations too. For now, running a top tier gasoline, high quality synthetic motor oil, and blowing the soot out of it via an Italian tune up is the best things we can do for them. Although it'd void the warranty now, I'm hoping that Ford will devise a catch can setup or similar for the engines. I've been heavily contemplating installing one anyways to mitigate any buildup issues, but hopefully Ford will release something.
I just wanted to say, these videos are fantastic! I'm a huge Ford fan and love my '11 F150 EcoBoost and want it to last. Just kinda worried since I've added a RX catchcan and you said it will void a warranty, I guess I've been told differently. Thanks again! Super helpful.
What you're saying at 3:50 about exh scavenging is way less likely a culprit than the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, required by Federal regulation in the US, which dumps all the carbon right back into the intake manifold. Terrible for DI engines. Are the intake manifolds black and oily inside? Then its all the EGR system. The best thing you can do is put a block off plate on the EGR, or just pay for new cylinder head, yuck.
Ok i just watched this after commenting on other video. I am a master BMW tech. We have these same issues AS WITH ANY MANUFACTURER WITH DIRECT INJECTION NA OR TURBOCHARGED. We have been dealing with this for about 7 years now and watching your videos is deja vu. My personal belief is the valve overlap is not the major player but the crankcase ventilation is. We use walnur shell blasting of the intake valves/ports. Cleans very well. But does not eliminate the issue. I have found that installing a oil catch can/seperator in the vent system seems to work well if properly maintained.
"same as with any other manufacturer.." nope. Toyota D4S, Atkinson Cycle. Direct Injection for extra power, Port Injection for normal driving conditions..
I have a 2014 Ecoboost Fusion and considering trying the CRC intake value cleaner for GDI engines. It looks like the brake booster sits on top of the engine an considering going that route. I value your opinion and wonder if you would consider posting a video on whether this is good idea proper way to clean the intake valves on Ford 4 cylinder ecoboost engines.. Thanks for all your videos... Many of the have be very helpful!
dansolodan which is why they created a catch can kit for the V6 Ecoboost cost $300 dollars but does a great job at keeping gasses from the Crankcase out of the intake this and good filters should keep it cleaner
I've been a fan of this channel for some time being a Crown Vic owner. I also just bought a 2015 SHO with 17k and now this channel is even more useful. Thank you. Also did I hear right that a catch can will void my warranty? How can Ford justify voiding a warranty when you're doing something to simply protect the engine?
Did they ever come up with a way to clean it?
Yeah they did. He has a video on how he does it
@@RUclipshndl I'm trying to find the video - do you have a link?
Last year of 2020 I bought a Ford Transit van with a EcoBoost engine. It's a 2016 model. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about it. It has a twin turbo engine. 310 hp. I'm now subscribed.
8 years later and yes they are oblivious. the 2.0 turbo on the ford maverick still has carbon deposit issues. they need to follow Toyota's example and actually care about building a good engine. they need dual port and direct injection.
My apologies up front for the wall of text.
Let me start with a thank you for posting these videos on the carbon build up as so many owners have no idea and nealry all of the auto manufacturers are turning a blind eye to this problem.
Owning a 2.3 DISI Mazda engine with a largely FoMoCo content I'm familiar with this problem on my car. You brought up a couple of the key issues contributing to this issue the PCV system and oil but there's more to it. As you eluded to in a previous video gasoline DI engines from the word go regardless of brand (Ford, Mazda, BMW, Audi/VW, etc) have had carbon buildup problems and while technology has improved by leaps and bounds carbon build up is still a huge issue. Besides the hesitation issues you mentioned owner will also see a progressive drop in power as the available open area of each intake valve is slowly reduced over time.
The issue has a few inputs that work together to create the gunk on the valves:
- Direct Injection: No longer flowing injected fuel over the valves removes the inherent cleaning designed into port fuel injection systems.
- Oil: as you've mentioned it's advisable to use top quality synthetic oil versus semi-syn or dino oil.
- PCV system: by recirculating the aerosolized fuel, oil and bypass gasses back through the intake system generally on the front side of turbo to ensure adequate vacuum to create consistent suction.
- EGR system: Coupled with above issues now you're adding hot exhaust gas into the intake system along with already high temps from the turbo compression (regardless of intercooler) and you have an oven environment prime to create oil caking.
- Lastly is physics: Anywhere in the intake system where the airflow changes direction and/or speeds up the oil is separated from the air and sticks to the surface, hence the carbon build up on the underhead (radius) of the valve.
There is only one good surefire way to remove the carbon, physically remove it via media blasting or Ford's current recommendation and terribly expensive solution of replacing the head(s). BMW was a pioneer in development of the media blasting and have a factory authorized pressure pot blaster with attachments to perform the job. Here's a good before and after set of pictures albeit on a BMW it'll be the same on any DI engine.
cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200025864-BMW-Intake-Valve-Carbon-Buildup
There is no practical way for the average owner to prevent the buildup so removal at some point is the solution. Hopefully all manufacturers will develop cleaning procedures and make them affordable to average owner.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I just bought my Mustang Ecoboost May 23rd and not even 2 days later, my engine check light came on. WTF is what I was thinking. I did a Vehicle Health report and it stated "Urgent Service Required- engine misfire". Took it into Ford and they told me it had the wrong codes. Well 2 days later, my engine check light came on again. WTF and "did I buy a Ford lemon" is what I was thinking. I took it into Ford again. This time gave me a more detailed reason why my engine check light came on. Apparently, Ford has an ongoing problem with this particular code in relation to the problem of the misfire and not to worry about it. But for now, I would have to drive with the engine check light on til they figure out the proper codes. So thank you for the video, it was more help than what the Ford dealership told me.
Question, you had mention that if anyone installs an oil catch-can, it would void the warranty. I was looking to do a full tune on my Mustang with the tuner, pipes, cold air intake, turbosmart blow off valve and intercooler. Oil catch-can was part of my full tuning but I guess I won't be installing that now. Will any of these installs void my warranty? Thanks for the input.
I am a Caterpillar diesel generator tech, a lot of times we see that when engines don't run at rated temps and load cause exhaust "wet stacking" or "engine slobber". Could running these engines at high rpm a couple of times in a drive cycle prevent this carbon build up?
Thanks for the heads up. I guess I never realized how much carbon build up these EcoBoost engines produced. Always a learning experience on your channel, that's why I subbed years ago, and why I continue to watch your content. 👍👍
So, I've got a 2014 Flex 3.5L EB. It's only got 5,000 miles on it but I'm going to get it's first change of oil soon and I'll specify full synthetic. I also only use Shell, but I think I'll start using 93 instead of 87. Also, the odd "Italian tune-up" sounds beneficial. I don't want to get to 60,001 miles and have Ford tell me to replace the heads.
Just brought a brand new Focus ST 2016. I'm glad to to have found you!! Great video!! It's good to see that people like you are still around. Great information. Thank you for putting it out here!
Any update on cleaning process from ford
How to fix direct injection problems in your pick up?
Factory approved method.
Step 1. Take a chain and bolt it to the motor, remove engine from vehicle, place in boat, and then throw overboard. 2. Put in a port injected 5.0L v8
3. Go out and have a drink.
As always, advice is absolutely free.
That's a good bit of info. I am a new Ecoboost owner 2.7l F150. Great engine so far! I was a Ford Master Technician for about 15 yrs. and I agree with the Chevron Techron additive it works well. However, I am a huge Amsoil fan so I will be running that oil along with their P.I. fuel additive. What you said about the induction service is spot on too, the Ford dealers that I worked for, we would never recommend even the BG Induction Service because we didn't know how it would affect the turbos. The 3.5 Ecoboost was to new at the time. Great info on your videos!
MY belief is that EGR and PCV cause carbon to deposit on the valve easier now and because theres direct injection, now theres no gas coming upstream to dissolve the carbon
+nicholas elias That's exactly what is happening.
+nicholas elias I was thinking his explanation is a bit odd. If the exhaust gas is being allowed to come back up the intake valve, why is it that not all the cylinders intake valves have equal amount of carbon?
+nicholas elias maybe they should engineer a second injector to throw a very minuscule amount on the intake valve lol
Toyota does that.
it won't. VVT and exhuast gases released into the combustion chamber during intake/exhaust valve overlap still results in soot/coking on the valves.
I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost. Per your instructions I've switched from Shell to Chevron. Added a oil catch can and I run an Italian tune up at some point every time I drive it.
Great information. Good job Brian!
Thanks, Brian
Thank you do much for that information I was wondering if I could use a in tank. Injector cleaner. I look forward to hearing more on this issue. Your channel is such an asset to any ford owner
He said only use Techron Fuel System Cleaner by Chevron.
I just got married in December and my wife has a 2014 f150 with the 3.5 ecoboost in it. I have no knowledge about Ford vehicles at all and especially no knowledge about the ecoboost engine.
I actually work for GM and have only ever owned GM vehicles in my life. So I have been doing lots and lots of research about the Engine especially. Because I also wanna know my engine as best as I can! And I have only ever had 5.3’s before.
And after doing a lot of looking around and watching lots of your videos I have realized that there are a couple known problems with the 3.5’s first obviously being the whole carbon issue and needing to install the oil separator. And second I have found is about the timing chain slipping and needing to replace a whole bunch of stuff to totally fix that problem.
The truck has 75,000 on it and just had the plugs and harnesses, all fluids changed just a couple months ago. And we will be pulling a 3,000LB camper with the truck quit a lot. And I was just about to put a new topper on the truck as well as have it rust proofed but before I put another $3,000 into the truck I just wanted to make sure it’s sometime wanna keep with all of the known problems with them. I wanna have a truck I can run to 250,000 like I know I get can out of a 5.3 vortex. And I just wasn’t sure your thoughts? And if I did keep the truck what all do I need to do to make sure it stays running good? I just know nothing about these and trying to learn as much as I can about them! I love the truck and would like to keep it as my wife’s grandma got it for her. But I just know timing chain problems are nothing to mess around with as well as the whole carbon problem with the change of messing up the turbos and other things as well. Thanks so much in advance for your help I’m just really trying to learn this ecoboost Engine the best I can.
Are these software updates free through the dealerships? Thank you very much for the video
I switched from Mobil 1 (semi-synthetic garbage) to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 FULL SYNTHETIC Motor Oil several years ago, once my truck went out of warranty. This stuff is legit synthetic and I still can not believe I am using Pennzoil motor oils...lol. I researched AMSOIL and almost went with it, but was swayed to the Pennzoil Platinum and glad I did.
As for Techron Fuel Additive, i know it is a amazing product that actually works, due to me working for Chevron Finished Lubricants back in the mid-90's. But I have steered clear of any fuel additive due to the EcoBoost being a Direct-Injected Turbo Charged Engine.... Will go back to
using the good stuff!
Many thanks for you taking the time, trouble and effort to put up these videos. I have been making the mistake of drinking my local Ford Dealers Kool-Aid for too long, now God willing, maybe my F150 EcoBoost will run again like it was designed to when it left the factory, all thanks to you and a few others who spread the truth!
In our EcoBoost test vehicles we have found that the addition of an oil separator and water/meth injection really helps keep the engine clean. The water/meth injection has the secondary benefit of increasing performance. We modify the cars fairly extensively, so warranty issues are not a concern.
Do you use an over the counter oil separator or do you just fab up a catch can?
Nice! I'm commenting just to be sure any add to this conversation!
This is good info coming from a factory performance line. I was thinking something similar and was wondering about the meth injection. I may buy an ecoboost after all.
SVTPerformance So u guys void the warranty from the jump huh? U would think after all these years the blue Oval would trust u guys. kind of like Benz & AMG!
SVTPerformance This seems to be about the best solution so far to combating the inherent issues of a "dry" intake tract. It's my guess that as di/t technology continues to proliferate across the automotive industry oil catch cans are going to become are going to be a standard part of the PCV system system as it's pretty cheap insurance and there's no real down side to them. It may even help overall engine emissions and efficiency as a catch can will contain oil vapors instead of letting them run the combustion chamber and burn off.
No turbo, no turbo issues, I went with the 5.0
Thanks for adding some clarification to your previous video and thank you for keeping us up to date.
FordTechMakuloco, have they come up with an approved cleaning technique?
Yes! Anything new?
I want to know too. Just put a catch can on my 2.0 fusion. Gently cleaned my valves while I was in there.
The gen 2 2.8 and 3.5s have an injector in the intake. I would immagine that between that and a catch can should eliminate the issue.
Hey-Answer the question, you obviously like to gab.
I've seen some people walnut blast the intake ports and it does clean the intake port and valves
Awesome video, very informative.While no one can answer each and all questions for all conditions and situations I think you have done a great job.Keep up the great work.Will be looking foward to the next videos.
Would love to see more reports on the 2.3 ecoboost engines. Have they overcome the carbon issues?
My 3.5 twin turbo, 65,000 miles, was sputtering under heavy throttle and we put AC Delco intake and valve cleaner through it, let it set over night as directed, updated the tune, changed the spark plug gap to 35 and she runs like new. Just got it back today so I'll give it a tank full and see if the mileage gets any better than 15.5 mpg.
@Kaffe Stein been using similar combustion chamber cleaner into the intake manifold similar to gm old Kleens mixture ammonia olic acid hydrocarbons in a spray can by Tumbler let it sit over night then change oil and filter don’t drive it hard after as chunks of carbon could damage turbos . So I drive like an old lady for 200 miles after and do it 2 times a year truck runs like new with 200000 miles and uses 0 oil between 4000 mile oil changes ps use good quality 5-30 synthetic oil and hi quality filter
Hello,
Thanks for the info. I just drop my 2013 ecoboost F150 in the dealer for Phasors replacement and they said that there is a Ford approve cleaning process using chemicals. Is that true?
Could PCV also be responsible for carbon buildup on GDI engines?
eformance Deposit buildup yes.
to combat the carbon build up on the valve, could I use water on the ecoboost, I've done this with the cars that I had and very good results and problems
No you don't want shock chunks of carbon off into the turbos.
Great video. I like my 4.6 Town Cars. I have been driving 4.6 cars for almost 20 years and the engines are still going strong at 300,000 miles when I get rid of them. The 91-95 4.6 Panthers did get carbon build up in the EGR passageway channels. Do first EGR passage way channel cleaning at 100,000 miles, then every 50,000 miles. 96-11 don't clog. I know I will eventually have to update to a newer engine, as my current Town Car has 225,000 miles, but I'm hoping for a Ford Fusion Turbo Diesel in the USA, if no Diesel, then I guess I'll take the 1.5 ecoboost turbo. I rented a 2.0 Turbo 14 Fusion SEL and that thing would do some crazy speeding. Push the gas down at 65mph and you'd be at 100mph in a flash.
4.6 cars are what I used to live by.
I never should have sold my Panthers...
Could coating the valve stem with something (teflon?, ceramic?, etc.) prevent the carbon from sticking to the valve? No mechanical engineer here but if the carbon doesn't stick, it can't build up.
Do you believe that the 2nd generation 3.5 Ecoboost engine in the 2017 Ford 150s with "dual" injection (direct/multiport injection) will solve this carbon build up problem?
Yes dual injection gets rid of this problem. The new 5.0L was given direct injection but they kept the port injection for this reason (durability)
I want to do the valve body cleaning. my question is the following. with the car off if I move the crankshaft, this does not affect the sensors of the variable camshaft ?. this to be able to close the valves and apply liquid chemical
WHY AM I JUST NOW FINDING YOUR CHANNEL??? Damn this is good information!!!!!
I have a 2015 with 2.0. I use top tier gas and change oil at 8000km (5000 miles) with full synthetic. No issues with drinking anti-freeze. My mileage is down about 1 mpg from original. I do not have a catch can but had I heard about these earlier, I would have had one installed as soon as the the warranty was over. I saw some of your later videos regarding walnut blasting and I suspect it is the probably the best way of cleaning it - instead of the chemical solution which may be harmful to the turbo.
Love your channel. Very in-depth and informative. You were talking about Ford coming up with an approved cleaning regiment for the carbon buildup... did they come up with something?
Just a top notch dude you are Brian. Many times better than some of the 'other' guys that have similar channels.
thanks alot for the great info. I have a 2010 MKS ecoboost, love it, what a sleeper! 112k miles and running great.
Crazy I’m reading your post from 9 years ago. I too have a 2010 MKS ecoboost, 118k, runs good
@@WesternReloader ran that one to 200,00 and bought a low milage 2014 ecoboost
@@bill6ft6 hope mine lasts to 200
Thanks for the quick response. I'm unable to change the oil myself anymore. I now have to take her in for a change and they want around $70 vs $40 for an oil change. love my truck, bit not able to pay that kind of money for full synthetic. I'm worried that I'm not taking care of the motor as I should. the absolute best truck I've ever owned.
+Robb Toft You can go longer with the 70 dollar change ..
If you EVER use non-synthetic oil (even the least bad, Castrol GTX), you are not taking care of your motor as you should. Reason doesn't matter. Other people are talking about fuel quality for whatever reason but these deposits are literally oil from the PCV system. Bad oil has a high NOACK rating and evaporates a lot more than good oil, or even mediocre oil (such as Mobil 1). Always use good oil as the first line of defense against this kind of problem. You can also consider other accessories like the catch can that was recommended, which will catch some of that evaporated oil before it gets back into the intake. Synthetic oils do not simply allow extended oil-change intervals (OCI) - they are an absolute requirement in a modern engine if you want the engine to last.
Also doesn't help that Ford dealerships will use that garbage semi-synthetic. Semi-synthetic is non-synthetic, and "synthetic" is often not even synthetic (group 3 oils are not synthetic!) But in any case, if it's not a full synthetic, it is definitely crap, and if it is a full synthetic, it MIGHT be good. That junky Motorcraft semi stuff will get you through your warranty, and that's what Ford cares about, but if you actually want your car/truck to last, you can go ahead and tell them where to put their non-synthetic oil (hint: somewhere other than your engine, maybe one of their own body parts instead).
$70 per oil change at 2-4 times a year is, what, $280/yr? How much did you pay for the vehicle? What do you pay for gas? If you can't afford synthetic oil, you're doing something wrong.
I am about to pick up my new 15 3.5 eco tomorrow. I was totally planning on getting 1000 miles on it and then changing the oil to Rotella T-6. 5-40. I run that stuff in every internal combustion 4 stroke I own. Would you really recommend against it?
Ive been a mechanic my whole life and like to over analyse all of this stuff. If you could spell out your logic on only using the Pennsoil or post a link to a webpage or video that does I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
I wonder if the majority of the carbon buildup occurs when the drivers lets off the throttle while at higher RPM (resulting in engine breaking). In this case there is little to no boost to force exhaust gases out. Which means the intake side could fill with exhaust. Or another cylinder that is on an intake stroke may actually pull that exhaust through the intake valve.
i have a new 2017 2.7 eb, what do i do to keep this from happening? best way to keep it clean...any new tec i mean because the video answered most questions
Catch can is best to prevent the coking and 44k is the best to help with carbon especially in the combustion chamber- amzn.to/2n16jYy
quinn boone use a good brand full synrhetic motor oil change every 5000mis . Motorcraft oil & air filters are excellent. I use 89 octane mid grade fuel too. Ford has had much less carbon issues than the foreign brands
@@FordTechMakuloco which is best to help with carbon, Chevron techron or B44?????
The carbon build up is mainly from crank case blow by. To meet emission's they vent the crank case gases back into the intake via the PCV valve to be burned in the cylinder and it cakes the back of the valves. Valve over lap may be partly to blame as well. Port injection cleaned the back of the valves and when they just went straight direct injected the valves no longer where cleaned. The new directed injected fords have both port and direct injection because of this
Excellent advice and tips. I subscribe to a couple of ecoboost specific blogs and a lot of the information on what and how for your vehicle is more likely than not an approved Ford procedure, but hey; that keeps you employed....
? We were taught to use sea foam now an then to clean the carb or fuel injectors even small engines is that a myth or is there truth to that?
Does this effect the 2015 mustang ecoboost?
What about adding an alcohol/water injector to a vacuum port that could be manually controlled to keep the intakes from getting carbon build up. You could have a switch in the cab and give it a "shot" every so often to have liquid on the back side of the valves!
Like that plan
Did ford ever approve a cleaning method for these vehicles? I'm noticing a lifter-like clicking sound on my 1.5l escape when the engine is hotter under heavy use. Thanks for all the info, I feel like I'll be able to keep my escape for years longer based on your advice. PTU fluid changed last week 👍
I'm wondering the same thing
+1
I have heard this click as well on my 2014 ecoboost, alot of the info from others say its is the turbo dump gate valves rattling, some have fixed this with a very small light spring on the outside of that gate valve on each turbo putting a slight tension on it so it doesn't rattle, of course this would probably void your warranty as well.
Just had the cylinder head replaced on my 15 Focus ST...seems to be smoother now. I took it in because of a check engine light and figured it misfired, this was the case. Not sure if the head is revised or not, but it sounds much better. Only took a few weeks. That is a shit ton of money if Ford is replacing all these heads. Maybe I should get a Mustang GT. LOL
Great video, enjoyed all the technical information on Eco boost engines. keep all the good news coming!
Great video, is there a way that we can observe the top of the valves with a video probe with a very small head. I can see into the cylinder easy enough but I am more interested in see the state of my valves and the carbon buildup on the valve stem.
I do an "Italian tune up" on my Fusion Ecoboost, once in a while when getting on the highway I put my foot to the floor and leave it there. Lol also use 93 octane.
John Gaudet How has this worked out for you? That’s been my method too on my F150 along with heaps of seafoam usage
I pour marinara into the oil fill to achieve a true italian tune up
i do the same thing!!! i have a 2015 ford eacape 2.0 EcoBoost with 126,878 miles on and i only use shell v power 93 octane
You're using that method to clean the valves on a direct injected engine?
Love doing the Italian tune-up, but not higher octane. Like the idea of Chevron w/Techron.
Hi Brian,
I see that you recommend using a full synthetic oil, is there a reason why Ford is still using their synthetic blend? The dealership does all oil changes for me, it was included in the truck purchase.
***** Synthetic blend is what is recommended in all Ford vehicles not just the Ecoboost so they just stick by the status quo as it is good enough.
mercury marine uses a on board compresser belt driven to inject fuel and air. very sooty engines. quickleen fuel treatment works great.
Does Ford's new 2nd gen ecoboost engine have this carbon issue corrected or prevented?
It should yes but the port injected fuel side is not always on though.
Well it's model year 2018 has Ford come up with a cleaning plan for eco boost yet?
I believe the new models have the added port injectors so this isn't a problem any more. As far as a cleaning for previous models I do not know.
@@brianarnett7479 Ford would PROBABLY recommend trading that old "clunker" in for the NEW and "improved" model! lol
I have a Focus 2.0 GDI engine. It currently has 240,000 miles on it. I have only used Amsoil 0W-20 oil in it. I am going to take off the intake and look at the valves, and see what I can do to clean them if needed. I am about to go on a 2500+ mile trip in a couple of months. The car still will get over 40 MPG on the highway, so I don't think it is a big problem.
Phenomenal work brother! Thanks for your astounding expertise!
I believe you mean volumetric efficiency (VE) not bi(o) metric @ 8:28. So back in the day before all these other fancy cleaners, guys used to actually use water for the same effect of cleaning carbon from the top end of their motors in essence steam cleaning them. Any thoughts or ideas on how that may or may not work with the ecoboost engines?
+Brian Sendall Yes I said volumetric efficiency I don't speak so well. The problem with water is it is likely to shock the and crack off chunks of carbon damaging the turbo impeller. The new chemicals are made to slowly clean the carbon and disperse them as to not cause any issue whether it be NA or boosted.
Sir---I have just ordered a 2016 F150 XLT with the 2.7 Eco-boost engine. Since this video is over a year ago, can you advise on the latest with this carbon build-up problem? Has Ford come out with a solution? I drive my vehicles until they basically just get so old they fall apart (my current truck is a Ford '73 F-100 360 that I bought new). Since I am 61, this is probably the last new pickup I will ever buy---and I want it to last!!!
Problem most certainly is NOT fixed in 2016 year model trucks. Someone gave you incorrect information.
Doy Virginia personally I'd look into a egr/ delete.make sure u add a pcv catch can.big difference in the nice solid muscle truck u have 2 the newer electronic,& carbon building up on the intake valve & gumming up the motor!!! As soon as 15-20k miles so I'd get the catch can immidiatly.study all manufacturers & reliability (I drive a Ford) currently sir.so, I'm not blasting Ford but they know the problems many of their auto's are having.i miss the basic small block's! I'd buy a ls motor-chevy!
There is no EGR in the ecoboosts, they basically use the TI-VCT to dial in a bit of overlap in the valves that has an EGR effect.
Doy Virginia i
I use Royal Purple, Z Max, and 93 octane from new. The reason I changed when the car was new is that the car would run funny with the semi-scythe oil, I also use the Z Max as oil stabilizer and fuel injector cleaner there is also a Royal Purple fuel injector cleaner. The car runs like a dream. I have a 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0 liter AWD with a little over 19000 miles. The only problem so far is that it stop starter during this second harsh winter; I had to jump start the car. The techs informed me that it was a under power issue. They check everything and did not find anything wrong just recharged my battery. I think it is mainly because I left the car sitting in the cold for 5 days without driving it. Seem like the does a cycle check and it was doing this draining the battery. I also start turning off my auto headlights and the radio when parked. It has not had any problem since. I want to do an dyno tuning because ( I have not confirmed this yet) I think it may be running rich it really does not get the fuel emissions that its rated for. This may be the reason or a contributing factor to the increase carbon deposits as well as having a small turbine on it. I think ford should require their dealers to have a dyno setup as a part of their maintenance . I have a 7 year warranty but if I take it else where for the dyno testing the out come could void the warranty. So that leaves me not able to do any work on the car until the end of the warranty. Which I am okay with and I really do not believe within the 7 years that any ford dealer will have a AWD dyno to use as part of its maintenance program. I may just go with the answer of fuck it and just do it. I know how to maintain my car to a certain extent but since it is under warranty why bother doing it. Don't get me wrong it would be fun to work on but it is my only car in this location.
Can you just vent the PCV to atmosphere?
Yes, you can. But you have to plug up the hose leading back to the intake manifold to prevent a massive vacuum leak from upsetting the computer settings in the engine. That way the computer thinks that the PCV valve is simply plugged and there's no problems. At that point the oil vapors simply go into the engine bay air and flow away, and don't go into the intake manifold and don't get deposited onto the intake valves.
But when you go for your annual emissions testing you have to reconnect the PCV valve for the tests.
Not legally.
I'm getting ready to take delivery of a '22 Explorer ST, and already have a Mishimoto catch can for it. I don't see how a catch can will void the warranty (9:30 mark)? My wife drives an '18 Escape with the 1.5 Ecoboost, probably should install a catch can on that one as well before it's too late...
2017 ecoboost will have a second set of port injectors they say its for fuel enhancement we know what its really for.
Does anyone know if this came to pass?
@@charredskeleton yes sometime mid 2017 they switched to the new engine
ONLY in the F150 did they switch over. the suvs and cars with ecoboost engines do NOT have dual injection.
dr. breen's beard 🙁
@@8__D oh its VERY disappointing as i feel the ecoboost engines with dual injection are bordering on being true bulletproof gas-turbo engines.
Great video, even if a bit longer than you intended. You just saved me from making a major mistake on a 2.4 liter Ford Ecoboost engine. Thanks!
You can walnut blast the intake valves on the ecoboost
Thanks for the info. I had my mind set on a 2015 Fiesta ST but after reading through this I don't know if it's such a good idea. I've had many cars before (all normally aspirated and all Japanese) with never a problem (2 for 4 years, one for 7 years and one for 10 years). Reliability is important to me but so is the fun to drive factor. Maybe I should stick to normally aspirated cars ?
2.7 and 3 . 5 Ecoboost are fast. I have a 2016 F-150 108 k Miles and no problems
Regarding the Italian tune up, VW actually recommend this in their patent to clean the valves. There was even a thread on a forum of someone who took before and after photos that showed the Italian tune up does indeed work
We "old" folks have known this for DECADES. If want a smoother running engine (GDI or otherwise) take it out on the highway AND beat the S**T out of it!
Did ford ever come up with an approved intake cleaning method? When you did your recent catch can install video you did not mention any approved cleaning method.
They did I've heard contact your fave local dealer. Run few tanks of premium fuel too if you dont already!
@@Davido50 I always run premium through my eco boost. Non ethanol.
What about seafoam that is placed at the throttle body, they say it's completely safe because it doesn't touch the turbo's.
Yes, i'd like an update video.
My neighbor just told me that the ford dealer cleaned the carbon off his valves on his ecoboost for $75. Cleared up all his rough idle problems.
Doyle Hargraves Yes there’s also CRC cleaner and that seems safe too
2018 and up doesn’t have the carbon problem. Redesigned injection with the best of both worlds.
Only on F150. Not on Edge ST
Not on the Escape either, at least the 2018 2.0
In Mustang GT 2018+?
@@cupramir although it is a second generation Ford turbo engine it’s not the same as the F150. To begin with its a 4 cylinder 2.3 with GDI injectors only. There’s a problem with carbon build up. Another big problem is the head gasket they don’t hold up very well. Look into the 8 cylinder coyote.
Great info as always , keep up the great work. I now have a 2021 range with the 2.3 ecoboost and want to get long life out of it.
First get the Government out of the auto manufacturing process. Install a cleaner burning fuel, LP or Natural Gas and full synthetic oil. Then no worries. You will notice carbon has become nearly a non issue after these simple mods.
The "cleaner burning" fuel has VERY LITTLE to do with carbon build up on the intakes. We're talking about carbon on the INTAKE VALVES not the CC carbon! If you REALLY want to eliminate the problem, GO FULL ELECTRIC!!
Lp and natural gas would make a bad wreck a explosion and a leak could be dangerous if I’m not mistaken you have to put natural gas under alot of pressure to be able to get enough volume to amount to anything
I don't own a ford, bit very good info on how exhaust/intake overlap allow good cylinder head exhaust scavenging, but the trade off can be regurgitation, for lack of a better word of spent combustion chamber by products onto.the backside of the intake valve. One of my buddies from high school is a petroleum engineer PhD. He says techron is the only way to go.
very good info. BTW us neurotic types are the kind of folk you want doing technically challenging work for you or on you.
This is giving me a headache!!
😂🤣
What? His voice?.....lol
If you have flex fuel run E85. Ethanol runs cooler and cleaner. Also like high octane.
A little update. At 5K miles, to help get into a regimen and help a bit with the carbon concern, after some oil research, I decided take my own 5W30 full synthetic oil to the dealer and have them use the specified Motorcraft oil filter. I went with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum PurePlus 5W30 and plan on sticking with it. Also, I purchased an extra fuel funnel from the Ford parts department, one identical to the one next to my spare tire to use exclusively when pouring the Chevron Techron fuel cleaner right before each oil change. The manual stated to use the funnel to prevent damage to the easy fill cap less system, so I will do accordingly. With these three combinations including using Shell 91 octane V Power premium fuel, I hope these will help with the resistance of carbon build up. So far my Ecoboost has been performing excellent, quick to respond and quietly. I do most mixed city and highway driving, with freeway's being my main commute, I do get to drive against traffic in the mornings and evenings so I have opportunities to avoid traffic a bit and punch it from time to time. So far I'm loving my ecoboost engine and Explorer Sport. Thanks again for these tips and videos. : )
I have a 2011 f150 ecoboost that I've owned since 103,000miles. I started getting the timing chain rattle around 137,000miles and decided to do a walnut blast myself of the intake valves much like the BMW guys do. That way scary to do but I can say I have not heard it rattle even once since cleaning the valves. I'm now at 151,000miles. I'm not saying that this is the solution but it got rid of any rattle I had so I'm happy with my results.
Had this down on my twin turbo BMW. Bought a ecoboost MKS last week as well.
I respect your opinion for using Pezoil Platinum but I really would not use that Oil at all. It's not a true synthetic, hell there's a lot of "synthetic oil" that isin't really a true synthetic. The only oils I even come close to using is Amsoil and Castrol. Also that Techron stuff will do no good if it doesn't even come into contact with the backside of the intake valve. The one good thing in your description is the catch can. The stuff those things collect is utterly nasty and not something you need in the engine.
Pennzoil Platinum is a true synthetic. You would know this if you checked their website or read the label. They convert natural gas into lubricant oils in their GTL (Gas-to-liquid) manufacturing process. www.shell.com/energy-and-innovation/natural-gas/gas-to-liquids.html (Pennzoil is a Shell Brand)
I have a 2018 f150 with a 3.5 EcoBoost I love it but I appreciate the information cuz surely I want my truck to last as long as it can thanks
What about catch cans?
+mshk999 Great option I have a few videos on them
Only use a catch can with a baffle or filter inside or they do no good.
Motorcityman Man g
@@davidfritz9231
What??
I been driving for 45 years you want keep carbon from becoming a problem this is what I do. Check your fluid levels, ALWAYS check the tire pressure go to the nearest highway wait till the engine is completely warmed up and start pushing on the gas, go at least 40 miles over 60 mph. Turn around when you get on the on ramp boot it let it rev rear the redline cruise over 60 mph on the way back home boot it into the passing gear 4 to 5 times. Do this 3 to 4 times a year more if you do 80% city driving. I only use Shell or Sunoco gas. You will notice your engine will run smoother and you will get better gas mileage.
Picking up an RS in spring, thanks for the info!
Two Questions: First, It seems as though carbon buildup on the F-150's 3.5L Ecoboost has not been as much of a problem as other EB engines. Is that a fair statement, or am I just not seeing them show up on Google? Second, the 2nd gen EB on the 2017 F-150 adds traditional intake port injection to the direct injection. Ford says those injectors should be running most of the time and the DI only kicks in with high power demands. Do you anticipate carbon build up still being an issue on 2nd gen engines? Thanks, Brian
I would just pass on the ecobost engines until Ford Masters it and that could be 5 years from now.
+Matthew Schaefer there absolutely is a way around it. look at Toyotas D4S technology. Atkinson Cycle. its Direct Injection when more power is needed, then it uses Port Injection under normal driving conditions. all controlled by computer. this way, the valve gets cleaned and no carbon issues. its a simple solution..
I hate it when people say Toyotas technology is no better than anybody else's..
+Matthew Schaefer I happen to like GM. Toyota, GM, NUMMI plant, California. Research Ford sticking has pedals, GM sticking has pedals, Audi, Some dates back to the 80's, 90's, today, and even Chrysler..Toyotas gas pedal issue is irrelevant and has nothing to do with the technology i was talking about. there have been numerous complaints about sticking gas pedals from a lot of other car makers. Don't forget about the key switches shutting off in GM vehicles..
+2010V6RAV4 replace has with GAS!!!! stupid autocorrect
+Adam W Pass on all GDI engines.
MattyBespoke Not everybody will risk methanol injection. Thats a quick way to blow out motors
I have a '15 Fiesta 1.0L EcoBoost (bought with 141 miles, now has about 5,500) and I've already started putting some of this in practice. Switched to a top tier fuel (Phillips 66) and have noticed improved fuel economy and performance and will run Techron through it periodically to keep it clean.
Just one question: Why Pennzoil as opposed to the Ford Motorcraft oil? Something additional in it to make it better or?
Pennzoil full synthetic oils are cleaner base oils and rated as excellent for turbo motors. See bobiatheoilguy.com
Any approved cleaning methods yet? I’ve seen the Seafoam guys on RUclips use that on a 3.5 ecoboost.
richdelgzz dont use seafoam on Ecoboost!!
Use it early and often and maybe you won't have ti worry about the large deposits getting knocked loose into your turbo
Is 42k considered early? Asking for a friend.
I just installed a throttle body on my 17' focus St 2.0L ecoboost. Install I had to take the intake manifold off and there is definitely oil in the manifold. I could see the intake valves and they had alittle build up not terrible (only 4k miles on the car). I took some GDI intake cleaner and just gave them a quick small spray. I don't drive the car hard all the time but I do get on it from time to time.
diesel tech Ron style. I Love and miss him. might buy an ecoboost because thus video
I sure do miss him too he was a heck of a nice guy and a diesel genius!
Is there a method to clean it now as of 2017?
Thanks for taking the time explaining this stuff 👍
Did they develop the cleaning process? Please update ?
the F150 &e is dual-port injection. even the 2019 Ranger,Expedition is GTDI. i woundee why?
Too long of a video? No the longer the better. Gets more information.In my computerized engine controls class we were told Toyota on the new corolla is using a fuel injector that's fired at the back of the intake valves every x number of miles and when conditions are met to help with deposits.I've also heard to use 93 octane every once and awhile to help with carbon on GDI engines. Have you heard of this?
nmattcar I have heard of those hybrid fuel systems also, but when I asked the Ford engineer he stated using premium 93 octane would have no effect on the carbon.
FordTechMakuloco And I'm sure higher octane than needed won't help with the VW either.
Specific octane 93 gasoline, such as Shell V-Power Gasoline and Costco Gasoline, have 5 times more additives than any other brands of octane 93 gasoline or octane 87 gasoline. Shell's Gasoline Additives include Enriched Nitrogen and PEA in the gasoline. I did use Shell 93 V-Power in my 2014 Subaru Forester Touring once, and the gas mileage improved slightly.
nmattcar yes 93 octane every 3 or 4 fill ups will help! Also use a full synthetic oil ALWAYS. Ford has a well designed GDI system on 1st & 2nd gen Ecoboost. Forget Toyota fallen way behind in tech.
How come you guys only get 93 octane fuel? The minimum in the UK is 95 octane with 99 octane widely available even at supermarkets .
At a well know toll road in the Eifel area of Germany 102 octane is available which is very nice.
Brian. As a Ford truck owner (actually have 5 currently with one being an Ecoboost) I can't tell you how many times I've listened to almost all your videos on maintenance. My main issue is the Ecoboost. Yes, I will have the catchcan installed (Team RXP), and Chevron Techron every so often. More importantly though, here we are at almost end of December 2018 and I have not heard of any updates on software of PCM. This was 4 years ago since you put this video out. Has Ford made any decisions on solving our carbon issues?
Yes, updates?
Thanks for putting this information out there! I always enjoy your videos and have told several others about them.
I think your spot on with your recommendations too. For now, running a top tier gasoline, high quality synthetic motor oil, and blowing the soot out of it via an Italian tune up is the best things we can do for them. Although it'd void the warranty now, I'm hoping that Ford will devise a catch can setup or similar for the engines. I've been heavily contemplating installing one anyways to mitigate any buildup issues, but hopefully Ford will release something.
Is there any way to tell if a engine has been cleaned and ruining the turbo ?
I just wanted to say, these videos are fantastic! I'm a huge Ford fan and love my '11 F150 EcoBoost and want it to last. Just kinda worried since I've added a RX catchcan and you said it will void a warranty, I guess I've been told differently. Thanks again! Super helpful.
ryan stratton Depends on your dealer and if a Ford Field rep comes out for any failures.
What you're saying at 3:50 about exh scavenging is way less likely a culprit than the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, required by Federal regulation in the US, which dumps all the carbon right back into the intake manifold. Terrible for DI engines. Are the intake manifolds black and oily inside? Then its all the EGR system. The best thing you can do is put a block off plate on the EGR, or just pay for new cylinder head, yuck.
I think you can buy on Ebay an electronic block for the egr
Ok i just watched this after commenting on other video. I am a master BMW tech. We have these same issues AS WITH ANY MANUFACTURER WITH DIRECT INJECTION NA OR TURBOCHARGED. We have been dealing with this for about 7 years now and watching your videos is deja vu. My personal belief is the valve overlap is not the major player but the crankcase ventilation is. We use walnur shell blasting of the intake valves/ports. Cleans very well. But does not eliminate the issue. I have found that installing a oil catch can/seperator in the vent system seems to work well if properly maintained.
"same as with any other manufacturer.." nope. Toyota D4S, Atkinson Cycle. Direct Injection for extra power, Port Injection for normal driving conditions..
ford has that too. not talking about dual injection engines.
I have a 2014 Ecoboost Fusion and considering trying the CRC intake value cleaner for GDI engines. It looks like the brake booster sits on top of the engine an considering going that route. I value your opinion and wonder if you would consider posting a video on whether this is good idea proper way to clean the intake valves on Ford 4 cylinder ecoboost engines.. Thanks for all your videos... Many of the have be very helpful!
I wouldn’t waste the money
Ethanol is partly the problem. Been running shell vpower no ethanol and just did a scope and she is shiny.
dansolodan which is why they created a catch can kit for the V6 Ecoboost cost $300 dollars but does a great job at keeping gasses from the Crankcase out of the intake this and good filters should keep it cleaner
Not everyone can afford Shell V-Power. Frankly, i think its a sham.
Where do you live? All stations in my state require ethanol. I deliver gas for a living and see the damage it causes to customer's tanks
How many kms?
I've been a fan of this channel for some time being a Crown Vic owner.
I also just bought a 2015 SHO with 17k and now this channel is even more useful. Thank you. Also did I hear right that a catch can will void my warranty?
How can Ford justify voiding a warranty when you're doing something to simply protect the engine?