2017-2021 Ford F-150 3.5L GTDI Ecoboost Engine: Spark Plug Replacement Walkthrough
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2022
- In this video we show you step by step how to replace spark plugs on your 2017-2021 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost engine.
These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend:
Spark Plugs x6-
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Ignition Coil Boots x6-
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Spark Plug Swivel Sockets Set-
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Dielectric Grease-
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Nickel Anti Seize-
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Spark Plug Torque Spec- 133 inch lbs
Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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My Ford Specialty Shop: BSG Automotive-
www.bsgautomotive.com
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. 
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Came back from the dealership today and they wanted $589 to replace the spark plugs. Thankfully Brian always comes through with the tutorials! Great video as always.
An amazing video from the point of view that many folks might think a plug change is so fundamental that they have nothing to learn.
However, a 3.5 Ecoboost has its own potential gotchas! And this video absolutely addresses every single one of them! Not to mention the excellent lighting and clear camera views.
fantastic vid! I couldn't believe the amount of foreign material that blew out of the cylinder... I'm a believer in that procedure now!
Even though I still own my 2006 F150 I’m here supporting for all the help he brings ✅
Nice, detailed video. I love the way you take such good care to do the job correctly, and cause no harm. If all automotive shops were that carful, the world would be a better place.
Thank you, Brian. You've saved me $$ on my 5.4 and now you're doing the same on my 3.5 EB!
Great video! I appreciated the minimal editing and thoughtful context you added before moving to the next step.
Thanks for showing the entire process. Some channels will only show the left side and then they will say that is the same task on the other side, but there is always different cables or lines to remove. Appreciate that.
This video was amazing. First time changing sparkies on my 2017 f150 and your video gave me perfect confidence. Your camera angles are great, lights perfect, and your explanation of the process was simple and straight forward. Thanks a lot.
I just followed this video and changed my plugs. Not generally mechanically inclined. Great video.
Appreciate the video and detailed explanation. Was able to change out the boots and plugs on my 2018 Ford Expedition Max following along with you. Saved a ton of money doing so!
Another great video to be used with my new 3.5L F150. I too used to have a spark plug torque feel back in the pre emissions days but no more, especially these new engines. These videos are especially helpful since my past two trucks have been a 3V V10 with the fragile OE two piece plugs and a 6.7 diesel that about all I could do was note that there probably was an engine under all that "stuff". One thing I learned with the V10 is that you barely loosen the plugs, put a tiny bit of Motorcraft carb cleaner down the tube to loosen carbon, wiggle the plug back and forth 2-3 times with the socket to stop the squeal then use a wee dab of nickel based anti seize on the ten new ONE piece plug threads. Electrolytic grease has been a no brainer on plug boots even with a distributor ignition for years.
Thanks so much for the detailed highlight video. Followed it closely to change plugs on our 2018 expedition with no issues 👍🏻. Loved the gear wrench wobble sockets.
Great video! Just changed the plugs on my 2018 3.5EB. All went smoothly, as per the video. Truck runs better now, too!
I've never owned a Ford, maybe never will, but I love watching Brian's vids.
I just knocked this out on my "new-to-me" 2020 F150 3.5l ecoboost. Thanks for the help.
31k miles on my Gen 2 Ecoboost (Expedition). Doing this procedure this weekend. Kind of excited. Thanks for the videos!!
I'm planning to do the plugs on my 2019 Exp in the weekend. It has over 50k miles.
Another great video. Just finished doing this on my 2017. All my plugs squeaked coming out. Made sure to grease them a bit and hand tight/loosen a few times to work it into the threads. Not throwing any codes, but I hope this resolves this jitter issues when its in a high gear at a lower speed and try to get it to go. But they needed to be changed.
Thanks Brian for working on the Ecoboost. I sold my 5.4 truck and need the 3.5 vids going forward. You literally saved me thousands on my 5.4. My neighbor bought the old truck and it still runs great with high mileage.
Great video as always, Brian! For those wondering about the necessity of the grease on the boots: an absolute must with the amount of mileage between changes. My dealer did my first plug change (2012 F-150 3.5L eco, 260,00km) and used no grease. I did the next change and the boots stuck to the plugs and broke off on 4 of 6 plugs. Let me tell you how hard it is to get those broken boots off of seated plugs. Save the headache, use the grease! I wish Brian's methods were standard dealer practice.
Unfortunately, dealer practices are "get em in, get em out" & most (not all) mechanics do not care about a little extra service, always concerned about beating "flat rate"!
It’s actually pretty easy to get them off with a 90degree pick
It was a pretty cool experience to work on my Ford with you
Great video and it was exactly what I needed. I was changing the plugs on a 2018 F150/3.5L Ecoboost. The pump plug on the passenger side would not come loose for love nor money and I was afraid of destroying it if I got any rougher. As I looked at thought it became apparent that like the PCV connection on the other side, the pump connection did not interfere with removing the coil or plug. I started out using a torque wrench but there was no way mine would fit in the space above rear plugs and still provide any levarage/movement. So I checked by feel plus torque wrench on the 2nd plug and went by feel for all the remainder.
My biggest issue was reaching the rear plugs without putting any weight on the front-end plastic, but I did manage and did not have to remove any of air intake piping either.
Thanks again for the great video.
As an aside, I suspect supply might be be reason for hte change in sparkplugs to a flat/gasket base. Every other vehicle I've had (non ford) used flat base plugs w/gasket. If Ford and the Ecoboost engine was the only remaining market, it would be a relatively small niche vs. all the rest of the manufacturers combined. If it also cut a step out of the manufacturing process for the heads then it s a win-win change.
The downside is that service of the plugs will require a step to insure that the old gasket is retrieved/removed before installing the new plugs.
Awesome video. Very detailed and informative. As a female DIY’ing most of the repairs and additions on my truck, due to outrageous labor costs. I was worried about the plug job. After watching your video. I’m actually pretty jazzed to get into this. Thanks Brian.
10 dollars a plug these days seems like a bargain to last for 100+k miles. Nice job with the tutorial Brian.
The link takes me to a spark plug that is now $20.93 per plug. used to be $ 7-8 a piece...
@@jcicho they're $6.15 on rock auto.
Good tip on the advantage of a swivel to prevent side loading 👍👍👍 Never knew that.
ive always done spark plugs by feel as well. never had any issues on numerous vehicles.
Magnets in the sockets help to prevent losing the coil hold down screws. Nice job.
Thank you, I'm getting ready for tomorrow. Wow, it sure has changed, individual coils? It's been a couple decade since I've done plugs change; can you tell! Very good instruction and visual, could SEE Everything. Thank you again.
Another great basic instructional video. Kind regards from Galway, Ireland 😉👍🍻💚 💙💛
I just bought the plugs for 18' a week ago and you do this video, weird. Only at 32k but I don't want the plugs getting froze up due to time. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.
I stopped buying the really expensive plugs that last forever for that reason, I would rather replace them more often and actually be able to get the old ones out, they are also a window to the engines soul so you can see what’s going on in there - back in the day we would have to swap spark plugs yearly
Nice job, you make things look so easy. Good job.
Can you do this with the engine running? Just kidding. Brian, I really love your channel. Thank you for capturing your work on video! God bless you!!!
Awesome and invaluable vid. Happy to have sent a few greenbacks for your concise and extremely informative vid. We need more of your kind.
Took u only 35 minutes? For was really thinking about maintenance on these ones and u sure nailed it ❤
I did the plugs on my 150k mile Mustang 5.0 not to long ago, and you'd have thought the Hulk put them in. I had to do the extension cheater bar method on my socket to break em loose, just glad none of them broke.
Side note, your customers have some filthy engine bays, lol.
These plugs are SOOO much easier to change than the ones in the 5.4L 3 valve triton motors!!
I have done my 4.6 F150 2 valve twice and it ain't exactly fun.
That is the under-statement of the century...
Did my 5.4 a few years ago, total nightmare! 6 hours to change 8 plugs. Right rear plug, had to remove battery, battery tray ,PCM and bracket. I sold it just so I'd never have to do it again.
Thanks for the helpful video.. I watched it and changed the plugs in my 21 F-150 tonight. Good to go!
Thank you very much
Great professional work
Easy to explain the steps
Many workers don't care about blowing to clean the dusty plankton
Although I think this is very important
Today I instructed my son to ask the worker to clean by blowing and being careful
I repeat my thanks and appreciation to you
2019 2.7 here. Looking forward to a similar video in the future 👍
Yes!! Please!
thanks for the video. takes allot of anxiety away for my me when i get back under the hood later down the road. i have the 2021 powerboost. hopefully the hood doesnt feel my rath any time soon. lol
Your videos ade notjing short of awesome..thanks for sharing!
Thank you Brian. Excellent video and commentary as you went through this job.
Hi Brian, I'ts Vic from Australia. I was VERY pleased that I found your page on line. I'ts a great experience watching someone like yourself who knows their shit on Ford's vehicles. Is it possible to show us some late model Mustang work? Keep those GREAT videos coming. Cheers.
Just did my 2019 3.5tt plugs., 86k. Bought the NGK, and the gearwrench magnet swivel sockets. New gray MC boots too. My harness clips were white. Also laid on a bubble foam pad and stood on a 18” painters plank stand.
Didn’t want to wait until December 🥶
This is an absolutely fantastic video for someone who doesn't want to pay the stealership $100/hour for something simple. Something they will charge you 2 hours to do that shouldn't take even an hour. Now do one for each of the following please:
Rear Diff
Front Diff
Xfer Case
Xmission Fluid
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Did it today and it was easier than expected. Solved my issue also.
Thanks a lot for the meticulous detail to give perfect understanding on what to expect!
Thank you so much for this video! I called a local guy about doing this and he was going to charge me $1,200. This will save me a ton of money.
That's nuts! 75 in parts and 1 hour of labor
Good job. Well explained from start to finish. Than you.
On my '18 3.5 EB the owners manual called out SP-534, they where superseded to SP580X as per the local dealership.
Awesome video Brian, Thank you.
Thanks saved me a bunch of money!
Great videos…
Help so much…
Awesome channel!!! New subscriber here, keep doing what you're doing good Sir!!!👍👌
Great video, Brian. It's refreshing to see someone who still believes in anti-seize lubricant for spark plug threads. I've used it for years and still believe in it. You made your point, when one of the plugs squeaked, as you were removing it. Keep up the great work.
How much do you DECREASE your tightening torque when applying lubricant to a fastener thread??
I have used a thin skin of anti sieze for years as well, ever since I had a plug siezed up in the head
So much easier than in a Pentastar where you have to remove the intake, lol. Although, I dont mind it too much because I can change the intake seals (while I'm in there), and I worked on those engines for a while so its no biggie. I know the drill.
could you comment on exactly why ford went with the change? What are to potential benefits/improvements?
Thanks for the great video.
Make sure your air gun does not have a lose tip on the end that could fall off also.
Yup that is why I use this style, nothing to fall off.
Air after spark plug removal is nuts, bravo on that
Why is that?
@@FordTechMakuloco I've always seen/heard/done it with the spark plug still installed, granted I don't have an air gun that long. Just something I had not seen before 👍
You always clean around and into the spark plug well when the plug is still in then once the plug is out you stick the air wand into the cylinder then blast everything up and out but not before it is in the cylinder. This way the only way is out not in.
Thanks, Brian.
I’m sure I saw that long blow nozzle you use wayyy back when you were recording at the Ford/Chrysler dealership!
Yikes, where did that time go, eh?
Great tutorial. Thank you!
Q1> when I replaced my rear valve cover gasket on 2000 Taurus OHV, all the lock pins for the fuel injector connector are broken. I used zip tie to fasten those connectors to the injector. Is that a bad idea? Q2> the part I order for the EGV valve gasket is wrong, so I used ultra-black as the sealant to seal the surface of EGR valve without the gasket. Is this the correct way to do it?
Brian ; great presentation always look forward to seeing what your up to ! Always want to learn.
I use a heat gun to warm up stubborn O ring connecotrs to ease removal.
Thanks Brian!
Another great video Brian have a great week 🙏🏿
Great job as usual Brian. Where did you purchase that air wand? Thanks
Just got a quote for $1600 to do plugs, coil packs, and clean the intake!!!!! wow. Can I use NKG plugs vs OEM motorcraft?
+++ Great and timely video since I just bought a '19 F150 with a 3.5. With only about 42K miles, not ready for plugs yet but ..... Sure a bunch different then my last gasser, an '06 F350 with a 3v V10. That 6.7 between that V10 and this truck made me forget how much fun(?) plug changes on newer vehicles can be since my paid mechanic days ended about 1990. Gotta get another socket similar to yours though.
I just left the deal who wanted $850 to so this job. As a A&P mechanic I can do it, it is just I prefer to work on planes over cars. BUT FOR $850 I will change my own plugs. And the dealer needed to tell me these are not like the old cars, individual coils, boots, plugs, etc.... right. This looks much easier. Ever try to pull a spark plug wire off a plug with little access and has been on the plug for years!!! I did gringe some when you blew air into the cyclinder. Great video thanks. Just checked on your links to the parts and the boots are $25 each??? Wow. Expensive part, does this sound correct?
Great video. Subscribed. I've read that Ford doesn't recommend anti-sieze. I defer to your experience and will use the torque wrench.
Always use a small amount as shown. The plugs are plated now so they will tell you it is not required.
Ive been using antiseize on plugs as well. Its like Ford engineers expect cars to be driven in a vacuum lol. I do add a few ftlbs to the indicated value though, just to compensate for the added lubricity on the threads. The modulars had the issue of plugs being grenaded out, while others would get so stuck they would ruin the heads. Its why on my Vic, I remove the plugs every 50k miles, and probably decreasing that number with age, as its not a daily driver anymore.
EDIT: I made a mistake here, that I want to leave up to show just how easy a mistake can be made. The replies under will clarify
I thought you decrease torque when using anti-seize or lube
@@ronenton4037 Youre right! I always have to double check myself because on the 4.6 in the Crown Vic, they love to pop out, so I torque them down a bit more than factory specs. On other cars, older ones I dont need anti seize (think classic engines, 460s, 390s)
Great point. When you lube threads, you're able to screw it in with more ease and thus have the opportunity to screw in too far, or to strip out the threads...
@@fredsalter1915 Its still something I have to stop and think about. Its why I do follow manuals, and why I have my own manuals for certain cars, where over decades (and after TSBs are no longer issued) it prevents this kind of error, going from memory or top of your head, mixing up this car with that car. Its why I left my mistake up there.
@@RipRoaringGarage using anti sieze on threads makes them tighten more with equal torque on all bolts, imperieal, metric, left hand thread rules are the same regardless of manufacturer
I love your videos. I don’t make any repairs to my truck until I see if you’ve done a video about it first. On that subject, I have a 2013 F150 with a sliding rear window with defrost. The defrost worked when I first bought the truck. Now the defrost has quit working (console button doesn’t light and the sync screen won’t activate either). Most videos on RUclips show some serious disassembly and no real fix. Have you run into this issue? I looked through your videos and couldn’t find anything. Would you do a video on this if possible?
Great video!
More on the 3.5 Please.
thanks
I know this video was made a year ago, but wanted to thank you for taking the time, very in depth video couldn’t ask for a better tutorial. Thank you greatly. Do you recommend disconnecting battery?
I never do but if you feel you need to then go for it.
Great video, my only concern is the lubricant on the threads, this could allow for over torque. All torques are specified with dry threads for that reason.
It won't affect anything no matter what forum warned you about this. Arnold Schwarzenegger could tighten these, and they still would not pull the threads.
Wonder if the aftermarket will make them indexed? Certainly the eBay and Amazon fakes won’t.
Thanks I’ve heard horror stories on this. Looks pretty simple
I have a issue with my 09 4.6 mustang it had stock cams it was ticking because a roller follower failed an was grinding into the camshaft an was making the engine tick so I put new stock Ford cams all new lash adjusters an roller rockers an new phasers timing chain guides an I also put a meling high volume oil pump after replacing all that the engine was really quiet for a few miles now I can ever so slightly hear the engine tick now again did I do something wrong? I also put 5w30 oil in it instead of 5w20 it never had a oil pressure problem the engine was pretty clean 98k miles
Love the channel. Any plans to add some Ranger videos?
Thank you
Thanks!
Can I use the Bosch double iridium spark plugs ? Did changed them and my 2019 truck started stuttering.. possible fuel ignition build up since i also have the p0420 coming up after replacing my catalytic converter
Great video, great angle, great explanation! Thank you! I'm definitely getting one of those Milwaukees, I've seen everyone using them
Hey guys .. I gotta 2013 fusion 1.6 ecoboost.. engine is pretty much gone. Was wondering if the fiesta none turbo 1.6 would work on the fusion. I would very much appreciate it.
GREAT video for the F150 Ecoboost and THE video to watch! But tell me assuming you are not 7 feet tall, what are you standing on?
Little sturdy stool works great.
any idea where to mount an oil catch can on this engine?? Thank You
I see you have the sp594 listed. On the ford sites it lists the sp550x for the 2019 3.5.
Can you shed some light on this?
Thanks
My problem was I didn’t push the coil far enough down on back cylinders. I had to climb up even more on the engine and push. If you are having a hard time screwing the nut back into the coil, you didn’t push it down far enough. 😅
Nice video!! I have a Flex that has a v-6 in it but my truck has a 6.2. How hard are they to change?? just was wondering!! Really enjoy your channel, learned a lot from it!! Thanks!!
The 6.2 won’t be bad, the back cylinder on each side may be tucked against the firewall. The Flex might be a little harder seeing as it’s a transverse mounted engine.
@@dieselford9184 Thanks! don't have to do anything now, just wondering. Haven't really taken a close look at either!
Can I use these boots for my 18 5.0 or do i need different ones ?
Will this work for the 2018-2021 Navigator?
I like ford f150 pickup truck thank you
Interesting that it’s now 5W30 oil vs. the 5.4 5W20. Perhaps Ford realized that CAFE standards are detrimental.
Did the right side have a hi pressure regulator to or not?
Could recommend some boots for a 2020 2.7 Ecoboost?
It's about time. It's only been 30 years since the first model motors and 25 since I first witnessed my first f150 sound like a two cylinder John Deere. I guess a third of a century isn't bad for a company that's been making engines for almost 120. Tapered plug in an aluminium head, dumb.
What gap ? I know they come between .033-.035. I’ve read .028 is better. What you think ?