Hello Quinn - there will no doubt be interest in Eccentric Engineering tool holders, but your viewers may benefit from knowing that the popular 10mm size will be unavailable just now. I heard from Gary on July 19 that the usual foundry was closing, and a new supplier had to be found. There are few to pick from in Australia, and he prefers to keep production in-country. I was further told that prices will take a considerable rise, and that availability of that size was anticipated for mid September if things progress well. Distribution will originate only from Australia, so purchasers should expect a jolt from shipping cost. Sorry 😞
As a Kiwi I was pleasantly surprised on finding they were made (and shipped) from Aussie after Quinn last recommended them. A lot cheaper than getting cool tools shipped from the US or UK. Was definitely one of the best little lathe tool purchases I made, well worth it.
"Leaking steam engine fittings are either maddening or perfectly normal depending on how British you are" 🤣 That bit had me creasing Brilliant video as always, Quinn. Very informative.
I must admit, Quinn got a giggle out of me with that line. Let's face it, the Brit stuff leaks. This is why on some English cars, there was an engine oil tank that you fill every time you go for a drive. While the engines are not total loss types, there is a miles per quart standard to be considered. There is a channel out there by the name of Tweed's Garage that tends to show this sort of thing.
Not for no reason was my first motorcycle a Royal Oilfield ( Brit made not Balti ) If there's no oil leak you've run out , very convenient means of metering. Off topic but my BSA made its own spare parts as it went down the road and left them conveniently by the kerb for collection on the way home.
My favourite workshop tool is my Dad. If I can't figure out how to make something or get stuck on a project, I just tell my Dad about it and he usually has some suggestion that helps. Even if it doesn't work first time, just having that different perspective/approach is sometimes enough to break out of the rut and find the solution.
Another workaround for the tack hole punch is : you put the leather (or other thin sheet material) between two pieces of wood and press them strongly together ; then use a regular drill (metal or wood, does not matter) in the drill press. You may get burr on both outsides of the wood, but not in between. The hole in the leather will be clean.
That's a great tip also for all the intermediate sizes for which the punch pliers would not have a setting. Yet another workaround is to get a set of ordinary hole punches, the ones that are used with a hammer, like a chisel. There are even Chinese made sets with one base piece, into which various punching tips are screwed in, of the same type as used in the revolver punch pliers. That makes it even cheaper than even a used set of punches. Also, such punches are more flexible to use than punch pliers, as they are not restricted to be used around the edges of a sheet of material.
@@djazt.8053 I just make 'special sizes' from drill rod, only have 3 specials though as the Made in India sets cover just about everything else (even after 50+ years of making parts)
I've worked in the machine tool industry for over 50 years, both as a machinist/tool and die maker and a mechanical designer. I'll have to say after watching your videos that I can't find much to disagree with. I had my own shop for 10 years and if I still had it, I'd hire you in a minute. Keep up the good videos!
@@WoodworkingforAnyone Well as a hobbyist, I think she does pretty good. Reminds me of when I first got in the machine trades in the early 70s. Most shops didn't have CNC so every thing was manual and you had to come up with all kinds of ideas to get the job done
I'm an old dude in the design and engineering world. Let me tell you, the people that think they know what they're doing far outnumber those that do. Quinn is one of the few that really knows what she's doing. I was prompted to rant because of the loctite dissertation. Hardly anyone else knows the science and versatility of loctite.
For endmill holding in my tail stock I've found an ER32 collet chuck with a Morse taper works very well. Love your channel-you've taught me many techniques that fit my style of machine shop.
ER20 or 25 may be better for smaller stuff or very small machines? Plus, as you almost point out, you only need one chuck and a set of collets which can be swapped around on different machines and fixtures (rotary table, head-stock, spin indexer, etc) Personally, I find it far more convenient than actual mill holders which I have very few of.
The Dewalt Pilot Point Drill Bits are my go to when drilling holes in sheet metal. The point drills a pilot hole and guides the outer cutters that cut a reverse angle hole that usually makes a washer the size of the hole. Yes there are step drills for this application, but you can over run the step size you want and there aren't the range of sizes available in the pilot drill set.
Thanks for your thoroughly done presentations. It must take a ton of work and planning to pull off. They say in the media industry that it takes 10 hours of work to create 10 minutes of usable footage so I hope your viewers understand the herculean effort involved with bringing such good material to the internet. Also, so few presenters go into detail regarding the justification for their recommendations, procedures and choices that the effort you put into that part really makes your channel a standout.
I bought the diamond tool holder several years ago and at first I wasn't too crazy about it 😊 Now tho that I got used to it I would say it is in my lathe 90% of the time. It is just that versatile. My next task is to take the time to master grinding a cutter for threads.
Same. Was expensive to import but worth it. Picked up the Turnado as well which is a lot of fun. If i can fit a nice handle to something you can bet the turnado is coming out!
After seeing how much used the diamond cutter got on this chanel, I also bought one. Great easy to use much better than grinding all those traditional hss tool bits
I just purchased a South Bend 9". My motorcycle took a backseat for family priorities; now, 40 years later, it's on my bench, and in the past month, I have found myself daydreaming about how to find a machinist to make custom parts. Before the family came, I hung out at my buddy's street rod garage, which was filled with years of experienced men from all professions, all willing to help each other. I thought everyone had this garage at their disposal; now I realize it was a goldmine. But they're all gone now. So I'm starting over, hence the South Bend. I've never turned on a lathe, so beginner is an understatement. Your videos, along with many others, will replace the street rod garage, and they will put it in my basement. Thank you for taking the time and effort to post clear and concise videos to help us rookies.
My dearest Quinn... please please please DO many more videos like this! For every hobby machinist this is absolute gold! how often you get around a tool and you buy it with no particular reason...maybe even just because you like it or because the tool looks very well made. and then after a while you are not able to realise how you could life without this tool before. Or do you know this feeling when you are in a workshop or hobby shop from a friend and looking around with big eyes and see his/her solutions for storage or see some tools you did not know before... Or sometimes you are in a hobbyshop from somebody that makes something totally different as you do, maybe some woodworks or leather or cloths etc... and then see a tool that is the real solution for some problem which was a real pain in the a** for years??? that was always my way to find tools or solutions and mostly this is a hard or at least a time consuming way. Long story short... Quinn your vids are great! Always very good infos, real well explained,never boring and its always nice to see you😊 When I'm home from work and maybe havin a beer and watch some blondihacks.... its like havin a beer with a friend. Well and I think this is the real goal when making videos like you Quinn, that people really lookin forward for the next video:-)
Love your show, Thank You. My favorite secret tool is not any single tool but the realization that an fifty year old second hand Starrett or Brown and Sharpe is better than anything new from the local home improvement store.
Couldn’t agree more. I inherited my lathe and mill, separately, along with all sorts of tools and cutters. The old stuff is mostly glorious. I suppose old trash has already been recycled into baked bean tins. 33:02
I loved the thought about playing leapfrog between drills. I have a nifty circular conversion scale which aids jumping between fraction sizes and metric giving a big range of sizes.
Well, no comment becomes no recommendation, due to an algorithm. So due to another factor I call great information, here is my effort to contribute to the proliferation of this channel. Also note it's simply another great Australian product. Thanks lady!
Work around for the end mill in the tailstock? Hold it in the tool post instead. They work as boring bars if aligned with the end of the flute horizontal.
We had a Henkel rep come and visit the last company I worked at and he said a press fit between a pin and hole only has about 30% actual interference contact -- you can imagine if there are peaks and valleys on both surface finishes, only the peaks wedge together. By contrast, an adhesive with admittedly lower yield strength can achieve 100% contact and result in a stronger joint. He obviously had the incentive of selling Henkel Loctite products, but it was a fascinating talk (with a hands on "arts and crafts" session) that was extremely detrimental to the effort I put into press fits!
LOL You just haven't lived until you have done the sacrificial thing with the table on say a Haas VS-3 and have cut a slot on a long angle across the whole table. Such fun. OOPS.
I tried using the milling adapter for my 6" Atlas lathe. The end mill holder was sized for 1/2" endmills, but it also came with split sleeves to accommodate a variety of tool diameters. The milling adapter was a PITA so I sold it on eBay, but I kept the adapter sleeves. When I got my Grizzly knee mill, I got a 1/2" Weldon tool holder and used it with the split sleeves for all of my various sizes of endmills. It probably would not be too hard to machine up several sizes of sleeves. The split in the sleeve needs to be wide enough to pass the grub screw so it can bear directly on the cutter but also narrow enough to keep the cutter centered in the tool holder.
I built UL508A boiler control panels. DeWalt pilot point the perfect drill for thin sheet metal. The flutes cut the outside edge first , so no grabbing the last chip like a common drill bit will with sheet metal. Most Hoffman type enclosures we used were close to 16ga thickness. So these drills were great for door holes for pilot lights or a starting hole for a square cut out.
Wow! I'm especially fond of the thin parallels and that "Diamond" tool holder (I wonder if they make those for the 8mm WW lathes)! Oh, and one thing my supervisor taught me about those Scotch Bright wheels is (after you dress them) grind on a scrap of (hard)wood! Not sure if it's the wood fibers or the resin, but it makes the wheel cut metal way more efficiently without getting as hot! ;)
Unfortunately the smallest "Diamond" tool holder has an 11mm deep shank and takes a 1/4 inch square insert; it's sized to suit a Myford ML7 or similar sized machine. They were originally sold by Don Burke who did sell a smaller version that took a 3/16 insert and for a while one sized to suit the Unimat 3 - I regret not buying when they were available! There are a few RUclips videos about making your own tangential tool holder so good luck!
i have a sheet metal worker back ground (aka tin knocker) and i have a roper whitney jr punch #5 that i picked up at a garage sale for $5 25 years ago that pretty much provides me with hole punching, very handy when you loose a few lbs and need a new hole in a belt. they make bigger ones that will punch a variety of hole sizes in 1/4" angle iron and other things. there's even a thing called a combi that will bend and cut, bend, and punch a variety of small straps and angle irons
Love the vid. As a toolmaker we use pilot point drills to precision locate holes on jigs we have to hand drill out in the field, drill a small hole with a drill, up-size it with a pilot point drill bit, and then sometimes ream out the hole with a piloted reamer.
Broken drills can easily be ground with a flat end with some clearance and when used in a partially drilled hole will give you a square bottomed hole that matches the drill size bearing in mind drills measure under the finished hole size.
Given how cheap drill bits are, even cobalt ones, you can just grind your own fairly easily from a cheap set. After all, when did any of us last break a drill bit? (Though actually, I broke a 1.5mm the other day when the drill fell over. First one in many, many years though.)
I just purchased thin parallels on sale and already have a few of the other things but will add more. I suspect that your next list might include stub drills, I love mine.
Finally ! A "top ten things you need" post that is actually worth seeing, wouldn't think the internet could produce that one day, but Quinn did. Thanks !
Under size Reamer: Run it in reverse and hold a fine whetstone to it Oversize Reamer: Use a 3-edge-scraper and create burrs at the cutting edges of the reamer. Try it in some scrap material until desired diameter is reached. Different cutting fluids also have influence to the diameter. Deburring Holes Backside: Use a small boring bar for thread cutting and scrape the burr away
I love my Diamond point tangential tool bit for the lathe! I've been threatening for a while to make one that uses either 3/8 or preferably 1/2 inch tool bits for my larger lathe.
The grind on the Dewalt drill bits you have been mentioned is a known old trick used for sheet metal drilling. As a few guys below mentioned, it does cut out a nice clean washer, but what's more important it actually leaves a round hole. A normal 118 degree bit does not have enough meat in the sheet metal to center the cone. This + the flex of the part leads to chatter and the polygonal hole that looks more like modern art object, not a product of machining. A rule of thumb is that if the tickness of the part is
I worked in a factory making exercise equipment. We used Loctite 680 to permanently affix an aluminum disk threaded to an iron flywheel. it was the wrong size and we were told later, to disassemble them. We didn't know about heating the parts up (I was 18, cut me some slack) Anyway, most of the time the aluminum threads broke off! That's some amazing chemical engineering.
Knipex plier wrenchs are great. And it's more an electronics tool but handy for thin sheet metal parts, a HT 204 nibbler tool. I actually use that a lot making full sized cars. Very handy cutting bonnet hinge slots.
The Most valuable tool I learned about from you.... The fixture plate from Little Machine Shop.... That thing is so versatile. Good advice and I took it....! Thanks
In a pinch I’ve made a punch on the lathe. Drill a center hole in some O1 rod, then turn an angle on the outside to put an edge on it. Whatever size hole you need, that’s the drill size. Works great for gaskets.
HEY ,Lady love the loco yer doin quite detailed and shows great skill hole punches are available in larger sizes looking like a chisel chineese freight they can be fairly easily made with common materials but for metal you may need a heat treat oven and possibly a small grinder setup for the lathe for sharpening gaskets not so much but im sure these things , you already know cant wait to see the crazy train runnin off the rails Mike
I’ve been in the trade for many many years I just watch and see what you found important I was still impressed. You did a good job. I think you should make another top 10.
545.... YES! I absolutely love that stuff. Seems like threads are so poorly made on big-box store parts these days. 545 makes it so that all of my compressed air equipment stays pressurized for as long as I need. And that other loctite, THANK YOU. I always wondered about it when I saw you using it. OMG. That back side deburring tool. THANK YOU. That's something that has always driven me insane. I've got one of the wobble blade Nogas, and just like you showed, it's not ideal. One of my favorites is the optical center punch. It makes things so much easier, especially when you don't have good lighting. Thanks Quinn. My wallet will soon by lighter but hopefully things will be easier and better.
22:40 i had some similar drills from black & decker years ago, been struggling to find replacements. Good to see another brand. I use them for counterbores
Great video Quinn, I actually have an ER16 collet chuck for my tailstock, it holds end mills and taps really well when they are needed. My collet chuck also had a draw bar thread thread in the end, so I machined a bolt to enable the auto eject. Just for context, I am in the UK but I have a 1938 9" swing South Bend lathe, with I absolutely love.
Some great ideas there. I know you have moved to Western Canada so I hope you are safe with all the fires going on now. We are getting beat up pretty bad in the Okanagan but everyone is helping each other so people are safe and sound.
Great video! Never knew about the tangential tool holders but they make so much sense. Another parallel if you like the thin ones but want a little different functionality is wavy/ spring parallels. They are also very thin, you can maneuver them so the wave isn't in the way of your holes, and they wont fall over when taking your parts out. You touched on it a little when talking about reamers. But if you can't wait for a reamer and you need an oversized hole. You can really dial in how much oversized a hole will drill by grinding or honing the cutting edge. Grab some scrap material and turn it onto swiss cheese till you get the right size. Love the vids and so glad you and the community are so willing to share all this knowledge built up over lifetimes.
The alternative to the hole punch is an extending antenna from a transistor radio. Take the segments apart and use the exacto to sharpen the end then use it as a hole cutter. The brass is very thin so be gentle else it will crush
The tangential tool holder is still widely used, it has just been modernised a bit, to use inserts instead of holding a piece of tool steel :) They're used a lot in cnc turning precisely because they allow working on two faces without changing tool.
My suspicion for the intended use for the pilot point drill bits is for socket head screws. You would drill the clearance for the head with it and afterwards drill clearance for the treads.
for the hole punch: you also have dedicatedd gasket punches. 2 styles are available: 1 is where the gasket is pinched between 2 steel plates with the correct size hole and then you punch ith a flat bottom punch. The second style is a kind of handle on which you screw then needed cutter. the second style is also useful for cutting concentric circles which are useful for pipe gaskets
For those wanting a Tangential Tool Holder for small lathes like Sherlines and Taigs, I have written an article on how to build one from scratch (plus the bit holder for the grinding tool in order to get the perfect diamond shape every time) in the January/February 2009 issue of The Home Shop Machinist. I guess with some adaptation, the overall idea could be used for bigger lathes/bits by the DIY fans or by those who have trouble explaining why they need more money investment in the hobby home shop.
After viewing this, I ordered the set of Tangential Cutting Tools from Eccentric Engineering. Received them last night and just had to try them out at one o'clock in the morning (lol). Wow! these are AWESOME!
A tool that's a great partner to the tack hole punch is the Whitney punch. These are inexpensive and can make perfect holes in everything from paper to leather to sheet metals including thin gauge steel.
I've often used bullet casings for gasket cutters. .22/ 6mm, .38/ 9mm .45, .50 etc. I'm a sometime machinist and a reluctant horseman but I never thought about using that punch in the shop. Thanks!
I just used my tack punch on nylon webbing... bravo on your scotchbrite wheel's long life. I've worked with individuals that can consume one in the blink of an eye.
I agree with all you posted, would like add height gauge & surface plate, along with a computer close by running your favorite CAD program. Oh maybe two sets of the adjustable parallels.
There is a metal working tool that punches holes pretty much like that harness makers punch. I don't know if it's still made but I have one a friend of mine's dad had for punching holes in aircraft aluminum. It's not quite as handy as the leather punch as you have to mount the dies one at a time but it sure does make nice holes with no deformation of the material. It looks like Eastwood also makes one. I'm starting to like your channel. Keep the good stuff coming.
Hey I like that back spotfacing tool; I've been using the ones made by Cogsdill but I've found that they are very fussy to keep them working correctly if a blade change is needed.
1st time viewer, enjoyed the video. I'm just a home repair / hobby DIYer. I didn't think that I'd be able to make a contribution, but my dad showed me how to make reasonably clean holes in leather just by using an ordinary punch on leather backed by sacrificial soft wood. Sure, sometimes you have to really whale on the punch, but the holes are clean. I have never needed holes of any particular dimension, and God knows that the hole punch tool shown can't be so expensive as to need a work around, but if a hole punching tool isn't handy, well, then you need a work around.
Wad cutter punches for bigger holes than the rotary punch, very cheap, and they make round, burr free holes up to ~an inch. A favourite of mine is some square stock held in the toolpost, then drilled using a drill in the lathe chuck, subsequently either split, or with some grub screws added, to hold small boring bars in my 7/8th holders. trying to hold a 6mm boring bar any other way is a recipe for frustration, as the holder can't be raised enough on the toolpost to get the cutting edge on centre.
One workaround for the scotchbrite wheel is roloc disks, also made by 3M. They're available at most auto supply stores and are intended to be used in a die grinder for prepping gasket surfaces. You can use them in a drill, but they work better in a die grinder due to the higher speed.
Can vouch for Loctite 680, used that stuff at my old job for a lot of things... The surface area that it can grab and hold is AMAZING. Even found a way to get it to hold even harder too, light film on both parts and some warming after... Seemed to really strengthen the bond. Also holds up to more heat than you think, I've used it to glue together an alumina TIG gas lens nozzle to get by... Lasts quite a while before you have to glue it back together again (maybe 30 minutes?) Recently used it to glue a vertical bushing into a front lower control arm on my car, pressing in one went in a little cocked and streched the bore slightly, so it was a slip fit. 680 fixed that right up.
Careful with regularly heating up Loctite. Some (most?) Of them are cyanide compounds so heating the up in an enclosed environment can be very bad for you. I'd be concerned if you're regularly welding with a locticted tool with your head nearby breathing in what comes out of there.
@@zenengineer5803 No worries, it wasn't in a home shop type environment, heavy industrial with PPE, etc etc. Like I said, it was just to get by for a day while I waited for the supplies to show up from the welder supply (supervisor was taking his time ordering stuff, I'm sure you know how that goes). As I recall, as it was about to give out, what smoke did come off got mostly carried away with the shielding gas anyway.
I have a tack hole punch that I purchased for use in duct tape crafts. Works pretty well, although the adhesive does gum up the punches after some uses.
If you need a thread locker that is heat resistant, try Rocksett. I work with firearms, and when affixing silencers, or muzzle devices, you need something extremely heat resistant. Because barrels get hot. Sometimes very hot. Rocksett releases by soaking it for around 12 hours in cold water. Otherwise, it's not coming off.
Hello Quinn - there will no doubt be interest in Eccentric Engineering tool holders, but your viewers may benefit from knowing that the popular 10mm size will be unavailable just now. I heard from Gary on July 19 that the usual foundry was closing, and a new supplier had to be found. There are few to pick from in Australia, and he prefers to keep production in-country.
I was further told that prices will take a considerable rise, and that availability of that size was anticipated for mid September if things progress well. Distribution will originate only from Australia, so purchasers should expect a jolt from shipping cost. Sorry 😞
😟
Ouch on the shipping as an Aussie myself I know exactly how much thats going to hurt!!
As a Kiwi I was pleasantly surprised on finding they were made (and shipped) from Aussie after Quinn last recommended them. A lot cheaper than getting cool tools shipped from the US or UK. Was definitely one of the best little lathe tool purchases I made, well worth it.
The reverse parting tool that he sells as well is great
@@666Listblack you mean a welder? Lol
"Leaking steam engine fittings are either maddening or perfectly normal depending on how British you are" 🤣 That bit had me creasing
Brilliant video as always, Quinn. Very informative.
@@binky_bun I think it’s a bit of both 😂 British engineering and leaky fittings go hand in hand
I must admit, Quinn got a giggle out of me with that line. Let's face it, the Brit stuff leaks. This is why on some English cars, there was an engine oil tank that you fill every time you go for a drive. While the engines are not total loss types, there is a miles per quart standard to be considered.
There is a channel out there by the name of Tweed's Garage that tends to show this sort of thing.
I had a Land Rover for years, first thing in the morning was to count the puddles, if one was missing something needed oil.@@EngineerRaisedInKingston
Not for no reason was my first motorcycle a Royal Oilfield ( Brit made not Balti ) If there's no oil leak you've run out , very convenient means of metering. Off topic but my BSA made its own spare parts as it went down the road and left them conveniently by the kerb for collection on the way home.
Someday, I hope to remember not to watch Quinn while drinking coffee. Excuse me while I step out to get more screen wipes...
My favourite workshop tool is my Dad. If I can't figure out how to make something or get stuck on a project, I just tell my Dad about it and he usually has some suggestion that helps. Even if it doesn't work first time, just having that different perspective/approach is sometimes enough to break out of the rut and find the solution.
That's great, but…
does your Dad know you're calling him a "tool?"
My favourite less-known tool is a nibbler. When dealing with sheet metal, it's great at getting into places that shears can't get to.
They are fun, there is even a power version, works much like the die filer that she made. Just watch your fingers.
Nibblers are essential in aircraft work. 👍
@@624Dudley
So, that's been Boeing's problem of late, they have been using nibbles in their software when they should have been using bits?
@@oldfarthacks Possibly!
Another workaround for the tack hole punch is : you put the leather (or other thin sheet material) between two pieces of wood and press them strongly together ; then use a regular drill (metal or wood, does not matter) in the drill press. You may get burr on both outsides of the wood, but not in between. The hole in the leather will be clean.
That's a great tip also for all the intermediate sizes for which the punch pliers would not have a setting. Yet another workaround is to get a set of ordinary hole punches, the ones that are used with a hammer, like a chisel. There are even Chinese made sets with one base piece, into which various punching tips are screwed in, of the same type as used in the revolver punch pliers. That makes it even cheaper than even a used set of punches. Also, such punches are more flexible to use than punch pliers, as they are not restricted to be used around the edges of a sheet of material.
@@djazt.8053 I just make 'special sizes' from drill rod, only have 3 specials though as the Made in India sets cover just about everything else (even after 50+ years of making parts)
With thin parallels, stick a piece of plastic foam between them to keep them against the vise jaws.
Rubber binders work too.
I've always made a spring by cutting a strip out of an aluminum can and bending it into a V.
@@tyrannosaurusimperator same here except I used a piece of banding strap.
@@tyrannosaurusimperatorIn the shop I worked in we just used old thin parallels bent into a V shape as a spring
Uhhhh@@brianhaygood183
I've worked in the machine tool industry for over 50 years, both as a machinist/tool and die maker and a mechanical designer. I'll have to say after watching your videos that I can't find much to disagree with. I had my own shop for 10 years and if I still had it, I'd hire you in a minute. Keep up the good videos!
@@WoodworkingforAnyone ???
@@WoodworkingforAnyone Well as a hobbyist, I think she does pretty good. Reminds me of when I first got in the machine trades in the early 70s. Most shops didn't have CNC so every thing was manual and you had to come up with all kinds of ideas to get the job done
I'm an old dude in the design and engineering world.
Let me tell you, the people that think they know what they're doing far outnumber those that do.
Quinn is one of the few that really knows what she's doing.
I was prompted to rant because of the loctite dissertation.
Hardly anyone else knows the science and versatility of loctite.
ha, yea, and many think loctite is usa stuff. Not. If ya really wanta hold some things togethet try henkel hysol.
The leather hole punch thing is a GOAT. That thing helped me out in so many pinches.
I bought the Harbor Freight 9 piece, Hollow Punch Set, p/n 3838 it's $8
I absolutely LOVE your channel. I started watching about a month ago and WOW. Thank you so much for being so beginner friendly. :)
Quinn is quite the erudite lady. I love her teaching style and the fact that she is willing to share her oops moments.
I'm 75 years old, and a hobbyist since Junior High School, and STILL this video was packed with good tips. Thanks! Great content.
For endmill holding in my tail stock I've found an ER32 collet chuck with a Morse taper works very well.
Love your channel-you've taught me many techniques that fit my style of machine shop.
ER20 or 25 may be better for smaller stuff or very small machines?
Plus, as you almost point out, you only need one chuck and a set of collets which can be swapped around on different machines and fixtures (rotary table, head-stock, spin indexer, etc)
Personally, I find it far more convenient than actual mill holders which I have very few of.
yep. was thinking the same thing
yep. was thinking the same thing
The Dewalt Pilot Point Drill Bits are my go to when drilling holes in sheet metal. The point drills a pilot hole and guides the outer cutters that cut a reverse angle hole that usually makes a washer the size of the hole. Yes there are step drills for this application, but you can over run the step size you want and there aren't the range of sizes available in the pilot drill set.
I get up every Saturday morning, turn on RUclips and refresh my subscription feed until your video is posted. Thanks again!
A sense of humor is my #1 tool for everything.
Thanks for your thoroughly done presentations. It must take a ton of work and planning to pull off. They say in the media industry that it takes 10 hours of work to create 10 minutes of usable footage so I hope your viewers understand the herculean effort involved with bringing such good material to the internet. Also, so few presenters go into detail regarding the justification for their recommendations, procedures and choices that the effort you put into that part really makes your channel a standout.
I bought the diamond tool holder several years ago and at first I wasn't too crazy about it 😊 Now tho that I got used to it I would say it is in my lathe 90% of the time. It is just that versatile. My next task is to take the time to master grinding a cutter for threads.
Same. Was expensive to import but worth it. Picked up the Turnado as well which is a lot of fun. If i can fit a nice handle to something you can bet the turnado is coming out!
After seeing how much used the diamond cutter got on this chanel, I also bought one. Great easy to use much better than grinding all those traditional hss tool bits
I just purchased a South Bend 9".
My motorcycle took a backseat for family priorities; now, 40 years later, it's on my bench, and in the past month, I have found myself daydreaming about how to find a machinist to make custom parts. Before the family came, I hung out at my buddy's street rod garage, which was filled with years of experienced men from all professions, all willing to help each other. I thought everyone had this garage at their disposal; now I realize it was a goldmine. But they're all gone now. So I'm starting over, hence the South Bend. I've never turned on a lathe, so beginner is an understatement. Your videos, along with many others, will replace the street rod garage, and they will put it in my basement.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to post clear and concise videos to help us rookies.
My dearest Quinn... please please please DO many more videos like this! For every hobby machinist this is absolute gold! how often you get around a tool and you buy it with no particular reason...maybe even just because you like it or because the tool looks very well made. and then after a while you are not able to realise how you could life without this tool before. Or do you know this feeling when you are in a workshop or hobby shop from a friend and looking around with big eyes and see his/her solutions for storage or see some tools you did not know before... Or sometimes you are in a hobbyshop from somebody that makes something totally different as you do, maybe some woodworks or leather or cloths etc... and then see a tool that is the real solution for some problem which was a real pain in the a** for years??? that was always my way to find tools or solutions and mostly this is a hard or at least a time consuming way.
Long story short... Quinn your vids are great! Always very good infos, real well explained,never boring and its always nice to see you😊
When I'm home from work and maybe havin a beer and watch some blondihacks.... its like havin a beer with a friend. Well and I think this is the real goal when making videos like you Quinn, that people really lookin forward for the next video:-)
Love your show, Thank You. My favorite secret tool is not any single tool but the realization that an fifty year old second hand Starrett or Brown and Sharpe is better than anything new from the local home improvement store.
Couldn’t agree more. I inherited my lathe and mill, separately, along with all sorts of tools and cutters. The old stuff is mostly glorious. I suppose old trash has already been recycled into baked bean tins. 33:02
I loved the thought about playing leapfrog between drills. I have a nifty circular conversion scale which aids jumping between fraction sizes and metric giving a big range of sizes.
ER32 collet holders are available in morse taper for tail stocks.
Can you do a video on the importance of shop cats?
Ah yes, the old cat scan thing.
I mean with all the cat videos on YT, I don't believe there are any on how to check if your cat is within tolerance and properly calibrated
Cats are NEVER tolerant and cannot be calibrated
Well, no comment becomes no recommendation, due to an algorithm. So due to another factor I call great information, here is my effort to contribute to the proliferation of this channel. Also note it's simply another great Australian product. Thanks lady!
Work around for the end mill in the tailstock? Hold it in the tool post instead. They work as boring bars if aligned with the end of the flute horizontal.
We had a Henkel rep come and visit the last company I worked at and he said a press fit between a pin and hole only has about 30% actual interference contact -- you can imagine if there are peaks and valleys on both surface finishes, only the peaks wedge together. By contrast, an adhesive with admittedly lower yield strength can achieve 100% contact and result in a stronger joint. He obviously had the incentive of selling Henkel Loctite products, but it was a fascinating talk (with a hands on "arts and crafts" session) that was extremely detrimental to the effort I put into press fits!
Good point, plus interference fits have limited effect on low carbon steels, think stringy cheese versus med to high carbon as hard cheese.
I've made a couple of those sacrificial parallels totally on purpose.
LOL
You just haven't lived until you have done the sacrificial thing with the table on say a Haas VS-3 and have cut a slot on a long angle across the whole table. Such fun. OOPS.
Whoah why did this aluminum throw sparks from the carbide end mill !? Oh oops, that's the 123 block under it.
the EXL 2S Fine wheel is *so good*! They also come in small sizes for rotary tools
I tried using the milling adapter for my 6" Atlas lathe. The end mill holder was sized for 1/2" endmills, but it also came with split sleeves to accommodate a variety of tool diameters. The milling adapter was a PITA so I sold it on eBay, but I kept the adapter sleeves. When I got my Grizzly knee mill, I got a 1/2" Weldon tool holder and used it with the split sleeves for all of my various sizes of endmills. It probably would not be too hard to machine up several sizes of sleeves. The split in the sleeve needs to be wide enough to pass the grub screw so it can bear directly on the cutter but also narrow enough to keep the cutter centered in the tool holder.
If you have an ER collet set already, you can buy a MT ER collet holder. Works great for endmill, reamers, or similar
Try round hss in a diamond tool holder the finish is amazing 😀
I built UL508A boiler control panels. DeWalt pilot point the perfect drill for thin sheet metal. The flutes cut the outside edge first , so no grabbing the last chip like a common drill bit will with sheet metal. Most Hoffman type enclosures we used were close to 16ga thickness. So these drills were great for door holes for pilot lights or a starting hole for a square cut out.
Wow! I'm especially fond of the thin parallels and that "Diamond" tool holder (I wonder if they make those for the 8mm WW lathes)! Oh, and one thing my supervisor taught me about those Scotch Bright wheels is (after you dress them) grind on a scrap of (hard)wood! Not sure if it's the wood fibers or the resin, but it makes the wheel cut metal way more efficiently without getting as hot! ;)
Unfortunately the smallest "Diamond" tool holder has an 11mm deep shank and takes a 1/4 inch square insert; it's sized to suit a Myford ML7 or similar sized machine. They were originally sold by Don Burke who did sell a smaller version that took a 3/16 insert and for a while one sized to suit the Unimat 3 - I regret not buying when they were available! There are a few RUclips videos about making your own tangential tool holder so good luck!
i have a sheet metal worker back ground (aka tin knocker) and i have a roper whitney jr punch #5 that i picked up at a garage sale for $5 25 years ago that pretty much provides me with hole punching, very handy when you loose a few lbs and need a new hole in a belt. they make bigger ones that will punch a variety of hole sizes in 1/4" angle iron and other things. there's even a thing called a combi that will bend and cut, bend, and punch a variety of small straps and angle irons
Love the vid. As a toolmaker we use pilot point drills to precision locate holes on jigs we have to hand drill out in the field, drill a small hole with a drill, up-size it with a pilot point drill bit, and then sometimes ream out the hole with a piloted reamer.
Broken drills can easily be ground with a flat end with some clearance and when used in a partially drilled hole will give you a square bottomed hole that matches the drill size bearing in mind drills measure under the finished hole size.
Given how cheap drill bits are, even cobalt ones, you can just grind your own fairly easily from a cheap set. After all, when did any of us last break a drill bit? (Though actually, I broke a 1.5mm the other day when the drill fell over. First one in many, many years though.)
For the offspring of ‘Horsepeople’ may I say, you do some incredible work with your hooves….🙂 Merry Christmas x
I tried to buy the diamond tool holder could not figure out how to order it
I just purchased thin parallels on sale and already have a few of the other things but will add more. I suspect that your next list might include stub drills, I love mine.
You spin my world, Blondiehacks! Sometimes horizontally ... sometimes vertically!
Jokes appart, you do awesome videos and teach a lot! Thanks!
Finally ! A "top ten things you need" post that is actually worth seeing, wouldn't think the internet could produce that one day, but Quinn did. Thanks !
Neat!
I had forgotten a couple of those.
And yes, Loctite is definitely my friend.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Your videos are just so good! After decades of ripping up metal, etc. I still learn new stuff just from watching your basic videos. Thanks.
Under size Reamer:
Run it in reverse and hold a fine whetstone to it
Oversize Reamer:
Use a 3-edge-scraper and create burrs at the cutting edges of the reamer.
Try it in some scrap material until desired diameter is reached.
Different cutting fluids also have influence to the diameter.
Deburring Holes Backside:
Use a small boring bar for thread cutting and scrape the burr away
I love my Diamond point tangential tool bit for the lathe! I've been threatening for a while to make one that uses either 3/8 or preferably 1/2 inch tool bits for my larger lathe.
Lots of good tips and ideas here! Here's another one for gasket punches - old bicycle frames give a good variety of diameters
"Good order of operations can prevent the need for specialty tools." Love it. I sense merchandising opportunity.
Due to your intro, i have come to the conclusion that I love you .
The grind on the Dewalt drill bits you have been mentioned is a known old trick used for sheet metal drilling. As a few guys below mentioned, it does cut out a nice clean washer, but what's more important it actually leaves a round hole. A normal 118 degree bit does not have enough meat in the sheet metal to center the cone. This + the flex of the part leads to chatter and the polygonal hole that looks more like modern art object, not a product of machining. A rule of thumb is that if the tickness of the part is
I worked in a factory making exercise equipment. We used Loctite 680 to permanently affix an aluminum disk threaded to an iron flywheel. it was the wrong size and we were told later, to disassemble them. We didn't know about heating the parts up (I was 18, cut me some slack) Anyway, most of the time the aluminum threads broke off!
That's some amazing chemical engineering.
Yes please: trick tools, #11 - 20.😊
Great stuff! Will definitely get a set of those thin parallels. Keep these videos coming. Thanks for sharing!
Knipex plier wrenchs are great. And it's more an electronics tool but handy for thin sheet metal parts, a HT 204 nibbler tool. I actually use that a lot making full sized cars. Very handy cutting bonnet hinge slots.
Great video.I’ve had a diamond tangential tool for several years and love it. Don’t know why you don’t see it more.
The Most valuable tool I learned about from you.... The fixture plate from Little Machine Shop.... That thing is so versatile. Good advice and I took it....! Thanks
Love that sticker on your bench grinder- "spinny thing go fast" 😂
Hi Quinn
Regarding some level of repeatability with holes: wad cutter punch. For harder/thicker material, just up the size of the thumb detector 😉
In a pinch I’ve made a punch on the lathe. Drill a center hole in some O1 rod, then turn an angle on the outside to put an edge on it. Whatever size hole you need, that’s the drill size.
Works great for gaskets.
@BSesq
Pro tip for using a punch like this is to use a block of hardwood, with the end grain facing up, under your gasket material or leather.
HEY ,Lady
love the loco yer doin
quite detailed and shows great skill
hole punches are available in larger sizes looking like a chisel
chineese freight
they can be fairly easily made with common materials
but for metal you may need a heat treat oven
and possibly a small grinder setup for the lathe for sharpening
gaskets not so much
but im sure these things , you already know
cant wait to see the crazy train runnin off the rails
Mike
I’ve been in the trade for many many years I just watch and see what you found important I was still impressed. You did a good job. I think you should make another top 10.
545.... YES! I absolutely love that stuff. Seems like threads are so poorly made on big-box store parts these days. 545 makes it so that all of my compressed air equipment stays pressurized for as long as I need. And that other loctite, THANK YOU. I always wondered about it when I saw you using it.
OMG. That back side deburring tool. THANK YOU. That's something that has always driven me insane. I've got one of the wobble blade Nogas, and just like you showed, it's not ideal.
One of my favorites is the optical center punch. It makes things so much easier, especially when you don't have good lighting.
Thanks Quinn. My wallet will soon by lighter but hopefully things will be easier and better.
22:40 i had some similar drills from black & decker years ago, been struggling to find replacements. Good to see another brand.
I use them for counterbores
Next 10 please. Thank you. 😋
Great video Quinn, I actually have an ER16 collet chuck for my tailstock, it holds end mills and taps really well when they are needed. My collet chuck also had a draw bar thread thread in the end, so I machined a bolt to enable the auto eject. Just for context, I am in the UK but I have a 1938 9" swing South Bend lathe, with I absolutely love.
I just now did a search to look for parallels that would work on my Taig mill and this video was helpful at the right time.
Hi Quinn. Ever heard of "wavy" machining parallels?.
Cheap as chips and can be used for difficult jobs
These are my favorite videos from your repertoire. So much learning goes into these, most especially for the beginners.
Love your honesty and candor. Especially with the LocTite spiel. Liquid machinist perhaps (to borrow from the carpentry world)? Cheers!
🤣🤣🤣 “Use Loctite…..or DO BETTER” . 🤣🤣🤣….. That should 100%, be their new slogan.
Dear Quinn, You do a damned good job and the joke about us British machinists was just great.
"Links to every tool listed below, because I hate your wallet." You have a great sense of humor, and I hope you never lose it. Thanks for sharing!
Some great ideas there. I know you have moved to Western Canada so I hope you are safe with all the fires going on now. We are getting beat up pretty bad in the Okanagan but everyone is helping each other so people are safe and sound.
MT2 to ER32 for endmills in the tail stock
Great video! Never knew about the tangential tool holders but they make so much sense.
Another parallel if you like the thin ones but want a little different functionality is wavy/ spring parallels. They are also very thin, you can maneuver them so the wave isn't in the way of your holes, and they wont fall over when taking your parts out.
You touched on it a little when talking about reamers. But if you can't wait for a reamer and you need an oversized hole. You can really dial in how much oversized a hole will drill by grinding or honing the cutting edge. Grab some scrap material and turn it onto swiss cheese till you get the right size.
Love the vids and so glad you and the community are so willing to share all this knowledge built up over lifetimes.
Thank you for the thin parallel tip. I make gun parts as a gunsmith and the parts are sometimes very small.
The alternative to the hole punch is an extending antenna from a transistor radio. Take the segments apart and use the exacto to sharpen the end then use it as a hole cutter. The brass is very thin so be gentle else it will crush
The tangential tool holder is still widely used, it has just been modernised a bit, to use inserts instead of holding a piece of tool steel :)
They're used a lot in cnc turning precisely because they allow working on two faces without changing tool.
My suspicion for the intended use for the pilot point drill bits is for socket head screws. You would drill the clearance for the head with it and afterwards drill clearance for the treads.
Great videos...love the content.
for the hole punch: you also have dedicatedd gasket punches. 2 styles are available: 1 is where the gasket is pinched between 2 steel plates with the correct size hole and then you punch ith a flat bottom punch. The second style is a kind of handle on which you screw then needed cutter. the second style is also useful for cutting concentric circles which are useful for pipe gaskets
For those wanting a Tangential Tool Holder for small lathes like Sherlines and Taigs, I have written an article on how to build one from scratch (plus the bit holder for the grinding tool in order to get the perfect diamond shape every time) in the January/February 2009 issue of The Home Shop Machinist. I guess with some adaptation, the overall idea could be used for bigger lathes/bits by the DIY fans or by those who have trouble explaining why they need more money investment in the hobby home shop.
I will have to look at that.
thanks, just ordered.
After viewing this, I ordered the set of Tangential Cutting Tools from Eccentric Engineering. Received them last night and just had to try them out at one o'clock in the morning (lol). Wow! these are AWESOME!
Vibratite VC3 is also a great thread locker as well.
And their motto: “Use Vibratite or kiss your nuts goodbye”
A tool that's a great partner to the tack hole punch is the Whitney punch. These are inexpensive and can make perfect holes in everything from paper to leather to sheet metals including thin gauge steel.
I've often used bullet casings for gasket cutters. .22/ 6mm, .38/ 9mm .45, .50 etc.
I'm a sometime machinist and a reluctant horseman but I never thought about using that punch in the shop. Thanks!
I just used my tack punch on nylon webbing... bravo on your scotchbrite wheel's long life. I've worked with individuals that can consume one in the blink of an eye.
I agree with all you posted, would like add height gauge & surface plate, along with a computer close by running your favorite CAD program. Oh maybe two sets of the adjustable parallels.
All good choices and I have most of them. Still need the thin parallels. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
There is a metal working tool that punches holes pretty much like that harness makers punch. I don't know if it's still made but I have one a friend of mine's dad had for punching holes in aircraft aluminum. It's not quite as handy as the leather punch as you have to mount the dies one at a time but it sure does make nice holes with no deformation of the material. It looks like Eastwood also makes one. I'm starting to like your channel. Keep the good stuff coming.
Brilliant tips! However, as a Brit, I must jump in and tell you I resent the extremely accurate comments you make about our leaky fittings 😁
Hey I like that back spotfacing tool; I've been using the ones made by Cogsdill but I've found that they are very fussy to keep them working correctly if a blade change is needed.
1st time viewer, enjoyed the video. I'm just a home repair / hobby DIYer. I didn't think that I'd be able to make a contribution, but my dad showed me how to make reasonably clean holes in leather just by using an ordinary punch on leather backed by sacrificial soft wood. Sure, sometimes you have to really whale on the punch, but the holes are clean. I have never needed holes of any particular dimension, and God knows that the hole punch tool shown can't be so expensive as to need a work around, but if a hole punching tool isn't handy, well, then you need a work around.
BH, the tack hole punch also works well if you mneed to add holes to your belt.
OK, My tool budget just increased. Great video for us hobby machinists. Thanks for making this video.
Wad cutter punches for bigger holes than the rotary punch, very cheap, and they make round, burr free holes up to ~an inch. A favourite of mine is some square stock held in the toolpost, then drilled using a drill in the lathe chuck, subsequently either split, or with some grub screws added, to hold small boring bars in my 7/8th holders. trying to hold a 6mm boring bar any other way is a recipe for frustration, as the holder can't be raised enough on the toolpost to get the cutting edge on centre.
One workaround for the scotchbrite wheel is roloc disks, also made by 3M. They're available at most auto supply stores and are intended to be used in a die grinder for prepping gasket surfaces. You can use them in a drill, but they work better in a die grinder due to the higher speed.
Thanks Quinn!
Can vouch for Loctite 680, used that stuff at my old job for a lot of things... The surface area that it can grab and hold is AMAZING.
Even found a way to get it to hold even harder too, light film on both parts and some warming after... Seemed to really strengthen the bond.
Also holds up to more heat than you think, I've used it to glue together an alumina TIG gas lens nozzle to get by... Lasts quite a while before you have to glue it back together again (maybe 30 minutes?)
Recently used it to glue a vertical bushing into a front lower control arm on my car, pressing in one went in a little cocked and streched the bore slightly, so it was a slip fit. 680 fixed that right up.
Careful with regularly heating up Loctite. Some (most?) Of them are cyanide compounds so heating the up in an enclosed environment can be very bad for you. I'd be concerned if you're regularly welding with a locticted tool with your head nearby breathing in what comes out of there.
@@zenengineer5803 No worries, it wasn't in a home shop type environment, heavy industrial with PPE, etc etc.
Like I said, it was just to get by for a day while I waited for the supplies to show up from the welder supply (supervisor was taking his time ordering stuff, I'm sure you know how that goes).
As I recall, as it was about to give out, what smoke did come off got mostly carried away with the shielding gas anyway.
I use the dewalt drills to accurately remove spot welds on car body panels works a dream
I have a tack hole punch that I purchased for use in duct tape crafts. Works pretty well, although the adhesive does gum up the punches after some uses.
If you need a thread locker that is heat resistant, try Rocksett.
I work with firearms, and when affixing silencers, or muzzle devices, you need something extremely heat resistant. Because barrels get hot. Sometimes very hot.
Rocksett releases by soaking it for around 12 hours in cold water. Otherwise, it's not coming off.