Collet Chuck From eBay Parts!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I'm cobbling together an ER collet chuck from eBay bits! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
Clough42 on cheap 5c collet chucks: • I Bought the Cheapest ...
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This week’s popular “Why Didn’t You Just” comment is, why didn’t I buy 5/8-11 threaded rod as use that? Because:
1) I wanted something nicer than that
2) I like to make things. Which is, you know, the whole point of this whole thing.
All-thread is for amateurs. I was yelling “make a draw bar!”. It turned out good!
@@wildin13 The ER closer nut thread is, but on the draw bar end it’s the Wild West. You can get all manner of posteriors on these things.
When I needed a draw-bar for my lathe, I made one. My lathe has a tapered hole in the back, so I just made a taper-plug type things.
Then I needed the other of M10 or M12 that I started with, and made another - which is a bit nicer, as I learned a little on doing the first one.
Ouch! I did say I cheated. And I like making things. Ones I can't buy cheaply. I'm running out of time, you see. Oh yes, and I have built and installed James' ELS. It's fantastic. Came up with a neat way of placing the motor and rotary encoder. BobUK.
Good video. After making my ER32 drawbar, I soon cut off the morse taper and shrink fit the body onto a flange mount. It didnt take long before I wanted an ER40 chuck and turned one. Recut the taper to reduce any runout.
nice work! collet chucks are very handy. I'd suggest trying to index it around in your spindle nose... i bet you'll find a position of least error. mark both parts for future reference. also check the squareness of your matings faces and the end (back) of your spindle.
@@theoriginalDirtybill And we need more humor on the machinist sites.lol
I've also read, but not tried myself, that you can get a thou or two by gently rapping on the collet nut. I mean with a copper hammer, not quiet rhyming.
Aaaah, i see another collaboration coming ...
love it!
Hi Tony! I am wondering where everyone is on this young ladies channel. She is so good. Does she need to rebuild an old milling machine to get attention? I have no doubt she could. Quinn, you know what you have to do. I know. You have a day job, just like me. HEY, TONY! Where's that chainsaw Go Kart? ;-) Love to All!
Another great video, Quinn. I especially enjoyed the 'Sparkle Spanner'!
Send it to Bad Obsession to run through their cad plating rig
She has great terms that she uses. I loved the name too.
I was really drawn into this project. Chuck this video into your top ten, and collet a winner. That's all I got.
Bar talk, with a spin.
I recently made a drawbar and one thing I added was a delrin doughnut, just slightly smaller than spindle bore, and a tight fit around the drawbar. Shoved it a few inches from the collet end. This way when inserting the bar it prevents the bar from dropping and scratching the spindle bore, and also centers it so it’s easy to find the thread in the back of the collet.
One way to measure threads in the middle of a shaft is the three wire method. Thread wire sets are relatively inexpensive on eBay.
Tripod strikes are one of the hazards of RUclips machining.
God help us should tripods unionize 😱
@@danielfogli1760 I dunno... I’m working class, I think I’ll have to give worker solidarity to comrade tripod!
I think it would only raise the prices of tripods, not add any quality of life for them..
I didn't understand why this was needed. I didn't understand this episode. Maybe this channel has become too technical for me. I hope not, but it's been a good ride so far. I'll watch this again to see if I pick it up. Thank you for the puzzle.
My recent er32 Banggood videos.... a viewer commented that the ER nuts should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs, found info to support on the web, Oxtool comment tapping the ER nut with a hard plastic mallet while tightening to assist setting... will be releasing an update video shortly...nice set up on your lathe
l love the way her vids start! l bought a red hf laithe, ive had their mill 4 years. A novice learning.
Great explanation on the ER collet Chuck. I am new to the lathe having just purchased a Harbor Freight 7 x 10. I want to get a Collet chuck.
I have the same kind but ER40. I made a hollow drawbar out of 1" .. max OD that will fit through my spindle .. mechanical tubing. I attached some ends with one having the 5/8" 11 thread but with a .. I think .. a 7/16" hole through it so I can pass long work through it. The other end is set up so I can put a adjustable stop rod through it so I can make repeatable cuts when needed.
I've had good results on troublesome cold-rolled using a KC732 type inserts. I can take light cuts at low SFM without getting that torn up finish. It's a TPG type insert with no chip breaker geometry. I think the neutral rake is what helps.
I bought the Shars mt4 to ER40 collet chuck. After I put together my set-tru version I figured I'd never use my taper shank chuck.
Today I spent time figuring out how to use the collet stop feature to turn washers. You can use a very small set screw to lock in the right length of socket head cap screw to make your stop, but you can also lightly face off the stop in place for thinner stuff like washers. I'm ordering some flat head screws for better support for stuff under 0.060" thick.
My shars runs out well under 0.001" measured on gauge pin.
Some reason, none of my junk has the heart animation flowing off it. Must be because your special Quinn
Low cost morse taper collets are a simple way to get collets inside a morse taper spindle as well. But like R8 collets, needs a solid drawbar at back.
I made an ER32 collet chuck to fit directly on the spindle of my South Bend clone lathe. The spindle is threaded (1 1/2 8 tpi), so, like with my other chucks I can't, (shouldn't), run the lathe in reverse but I can pass long pieces through it. The only thing I couldn't do was turn the metric threads on it for the closing nut since I don't have the conversion gears for cutting metric threads on my lathe. A friendly local machine shop did that for me.
Have you thought about making a cheap "mounting bed" for your lathe out of reinforced concrete, or maybe a granite counter off-cut? Several channels show that when doing that to their smaller lathes, it helps with rigidity, and changes the mechanical harmonics of the system so that finish usually improves.
7:50 made me chuckle. It’s the little things. 👌
Public Safety Comment: Quinn and This Old Tony went to the same "Blur the Saucy Bits Out" training academy. (purely to protect the innocent amongst us of course)
my tender modesty was grateful for the pixellation but there was much polishing of shafts and other such indelicacies that maybe needed bleeping out x excellent work!!!
Are you people series you need to get a grip it's metal work for god sake if people's minds want think sexual things they have a serious problem.
I enjoy watching your videos, and seeing how you approach different tasks and problems. Your results are always impressive.
Many times I have supported a workpiece close to the end with only the steady rest. I would use a dial indicator to adjust the steady rest jaws to minimize or even eliminate runout. For a few light passes on a thread like you needed this would be a snap. Not as accurate as staying in centers, but very workable.
Have you considered using some ground high positive inserts for aluminum on the mild steel? They actually work well, but the edge doesn't last as long. You can also buy HSS inserts to go in your holder. I think at least a couple companies market them to owners of hobby type lathes. Then again, you can always grind your own HSS bits and not worry about the insert holders.
Thanks for all you do.
That helps, thanks. I will need to make a drawbar for the same need, but will use stock of the same dia. than the taper thread - here I have to pay dearly for leaded steel. Speaking of threads, you have been even lucky getting it as an UNC when the vendor did not specify. It should be M16 x 1.5 to the rest of the world.
Nice job on repurposing the collet holder. I bought what looks like the same set of ER32 collets a few months ago. All but mine has the MTS holder for my mini mill. Been wanting a cheap solution for my lathe to use the same collets. My lathe spindle is not tapered so have to buy a collet chuck.
Great skills, your video is excellent. Instead of sawing the part to check the thread with a nut, the threads could also be measured with thread wires and a micrometer. In the end your solution worked and ended up with a great looking part.
Very nice work. As a hobbyist, I wish I had half your knowledge on the lathe.
Yes, I'd say that's quite a bit nicer than a piece of allthread.
Thank you for making this video i need some inspirations for my mt3 er32 collet chuck. Thanks again
Everything is coming up Millhouse!
Using thread measuring wires would have allowed you to measure the 3/8" threads without breaking down your setup and they are not very expensive.
If only I had them at the time
@@Blondihacks I can send you a set if you want some.
@@bobbob8229 Interesting, had never head of them before
Even without owning a lathe or mill, your videos are fascinating. One question though. Are you able to tell anything about steel by touching it?
I love your video's! Your humor is the best! 😂❤
What a nice video! Loved it all the way.
Great job
BLASPHEMY! I myself have a recycle bin for large scrap pieces. BTW, I have found that if you try rotating either the morse taper or the collet or both, you can sometimes reduce the runout.
iam about to do this i got lucky my lath has 5mt and came with a 5 to 3mt sleve . and my mill i run a er32 in 3mt with 1/2 inch bsw drawbar saves me a lot of work .... i will use 1/2 inch theaded rod and collar on the back weld some nuts on for the hammer [cheap ]
Excellent video and goes on the To Do list!
Nice work! Have you had better luck using boring bars with boring bar holders rather than the standard holders?
How does an end mill know it's not spinning, the work is? Mine never complain. Lol
what a great idea:)
The great thing about being an impetuous, lazy, hobby machinist is that I AM THE ERROR - when I buy cheap eBay stuff, it doesn't make my work obviously worse. If I ever do manage to achieve your levels of accuracy, then I'll either have to fix the junk, or throw it out and buy expensive precision things. Everything has hidden drawbacks, even good practice.
Great content!!
Very nice video.
Quinn,nice weld , my problem is the lathe I have has a tiny head shaft! can you say abut 3/8 th inch?btw lms has the chuck back plate on back order til the end of Dec. !! whats a girl to do?
18:45 that's one incredibly aluminium-looking (contiguous) chip coming from what's supposed to be mild steel. Is that due to it just being garbage steel?
No, that’s quality tool steel. It doesn’t break a chip if you don’t push it hard enough.
My mistake - I somehow managed to swap the two bars in my mind. Time for me to rewatch and pay better attention this time.
Where is the violin now?
Not sure what kind of carbide you're using, but a polished pcd insert for aluminum gets me absurdly good finishes in steel on a 7x14 lathe. They're cheap for what you get, around $5 a piece from eBay. It's ground super sharp which makes it easy to take accurate final passes on wet noodle machines.
Likewise, ground inserts for aluminum give excellent finishes as well.
"hitting the small boss with a hammer" Practical and stress-relieving
I see what you did there;)
I occasionally wanted to hit my boss with a hammer but always managed to resist. Then I retired. Now I'd better not even think of bringing hammers and bosses in close proximity.
Thank you for the censorship at 7:40!
My mind goes straight to the gutter when watching machining vids!
:)
Oh, I was wondering wtf that digital blur was
Just a suggestion. Go check your runout on the collet chuck again, then mark the position with a sharpie. Loosen the chuck and twist it 90°. See if the runout improves.
I was going to suggest this, just keep trying until you get the smallest error, then mark for future reference.
I spent 2 days machining a lump of steel down to make my own ER32 chuck that bolts to the spindle nose, I don't think it's any more accurate then the ebay parts.
Good idea!
@@Thebowber Yes, I have made several ER chucks, different sizes, but now I have a new lathe and have to make some for a D1-5 spindle nose. Wish me luck, I doesn't have a mill to make the pins. I am imagining how I can make them with a 4 jaw.
@@davidwillard7334 ??Who is offering excuses? You don't make any cents
I blew milk out of my nose at the pixelated 'Prussian Blue' scene. LOL! Note to self: Don't watch Quinn during dinner...
I saw that but could not figure out why she was pixilating it. Is it naughty? I loves porn.
Quinn, can you index the taper collet holder, and collet in a way to cancel some of the errors?
Yeah, I wonder if that final error was lucky, unlucky, or average.
Good question. Your thinking is where it should be as a machinist. Let’s wait for her reply.
I have read - some where about doing just that.
Yah, great idea. I should experiment with positions and mark the best one.
@@Blondihacks Give it a couple of tries. There is often a useful improvent to be gained by simply loosening and repositioning both the Morse taper shank and the collet in the collet holder. I use ER collets a lot for lathe and mill work and tool holding. Give it a jiggle about and you may well see some improvement to concentricity.
change gear montage que benny hill music
Crap. Headed out to the shop to redo my drawbar now... because now I know a better way to do it! Thanks Q!
All that work you did on that steady rest payed off.
Such rest. So steady.
It did! That thing is a joy to use now
@@Blondihacks Now you need to do the same thing to the follower rest... ;)
"Sparkle Spanner" needs her name engraved and some bling.
If only she had a hand engraver watch her videos.......hint hint*cough* collab *cough* instagram.com/ubdrmade
Letter dies...
@@GunFunZS Letter dies look kind of industrial and I'm not sure that's in keeping with Sparkle Spanner's whole aesthetic
@@PKMartin it is with diy machine shops.
bedAzzle...
"Chattertown," that brings back memories.
Chipps, Inc., right?
Quinn: “So I’m just going to face off the end....
Me: as is tr...
Quinn: ....
Me: ok then. As you were...
I did the same thing!
I bought an ER32 collet closer off of AliExpress a few years back. It worked ok but had excessive runout. I recently splurged on a Taiwanese one (Ann-Way, I think). Much better, negligible runout. Mine is swapped between my mill and my lathe, and when holding a cutting tool in the mill, the cheaper holder was only cutting on one flute due to the runout.
I just use a piece of threaded rod with a handwheel on the end as a drawbar, because I'm a heathen. I turned an aluminium collar the ID of the spindle bore and have it double-nutted partway down so the rod can't whip around. I'm not a fan of transmitting shock loads through the headstock bearings, so I cut a piece of PVC pipe and milled a couple of slots in it. This slips over the body of the chuck, and you close the nut against it, holding the chuck from turning using the spanner through the milled slots. Pops right out of the taper like Yahtzee.
Just found the channel. Checking out the comment rules and I have an real bone to pick. Sorry to be the one to bring it up.. but .. here we go.
I searched all over your channel and I didn't see ANYTHING about an annual Firefly-themed barbecue. If I am missing it please let me know. Otherwise I think this situation needs corrected.
Sorry for the dumb joke. Love the content.
Next time you need a simple spanner like that, get in touch and I will cut one FOC on my laser. I've made quite a few for friends and customers.
One of these days I'm gonna take a BIG girl cut . I mean it , I will .
I like your channel. In the past when I did not have thread gage wires readily available; I’ve resorted to using drill bits of the appropriate size (three of the same size). There are of course apps that you can get on your phone to do the math.
if you have a faceplate an you can use with collet, it will act like a flywheel and with it the process will work much better than collet itself
An excellent video as usual. I have one more ebay find you might enjoy. The "for aluminum" carbide inserts that are honed razor sharp and have loads of positive rake work wonders on our hobby sized lathes. I cut steel with them routinely and they are surprisingly tough.
I know this is old but do you happen to have the insert number?
@John Ghatti Sorry to be so slow, but I have been a bit swamped. I use several different ground "for aluminum" inserts and routinely use any of them on steel. Currently on hand I have:
WCGT
TCGT
VCGT
CCGT
DCGT
The high positive rake and razor sharp edges keep the cutting pressures low and the surface finishes smooth. Our small lower powered machines benefit greatly.
Huh, James sent me, but let's be honest I was just waiting for his video to finish..:p
Hi Quinn,
Nice work today... Thanks for sharing...
Take care
Paul,,
24:27 "...put the spindle bore cap on the end there, put the nut on there, then you put the lime in the coconut and drink it both up."
Nice very well explained going to make one for my collet holder and thanks for saving me money 👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
Quinn , Hope all is well , Robin R called and he wants to know if you will make one for him ???? F.Y.I every 4.5 inch grinder(that I own ) and all the attachments are 5/8-11 one day that may be useful to you (i think ) Thank you for taking the time to make these videos... Pete M
cool video, I got directed here from MrCrispin. Subscribed
I did the same thing but just used a long piece of M20 all-thread and made a washer. Works fine up to my max 2000rpm speed. (Morse taper 5 for mine).
8:30 - the thread in that collet chuck is m16 x 2mm pitch, m16 = 5/8(ish ) and 2mm pitch = 12.7tpi. So it is not m18 and it is not 11tpi. Love your videos though, I think you could have easily made that chuck body and just bought the closing ring and collets.
It says 5/8 right on it and my 11tpi would not have fit otherwise
Great new tool there Quinn. Good job and well done.
Bahahaha, 7:40 pixelated machinist pron! Lol a whole new series of unnecessary censorship will follow on youtube machining and metalworking videos.
@@johnwhauserman pron is a pretty well recognized intentional misspelling, but Im sure you knew that.
7:48. Great pixelation censoring Love your sense of humour! Thanks for the video!
15:23 Is this a 40k reference!? The Mechanicum will be furious!
I don’t know how you have lived this long with out one! They are awesome. I get grumpy when I have to put a chuck on my lathe.
That's right. I really hate having to put the 4 Jaw especially because it is so heavy and so much more trouble than the 3 jaw. the ER is the best but I have to make them now for my new lathe.
How serendipitous! I have ER32 collets and diverse paraphernalia in the snail mail network. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Enjoy this as well as the steam engine series. Keep’em coming. Thanks you
Hi Quinn, I had a similar chatter problem when trying to turn down a long steel shaft using a live center. I switched to a dead center and that solved the problem. My live center was a "high quality" Bison live center, so I was surprised but very glad to solve the problem so easily.
Appreciate the mosaics during the explicit parts of the video, lol.
Flat bottom holes, you make the rockin' world go 'round.
Great vids! Thanks! If you want to get fancy, and retain more through capacity, turn and thread the outside of the end of the taper, and make a through bore draw bar ;)
Still really interesting videos. If it makes you feel any better, I can't get any kind of finish on cold rolled steel either, without aggressive cuts and my 14" lathe weighs 3500lbs. I think the issue has something to do with the grain structure of mild steel, but don't quote me on that. One solution is to do a finishing pass with a vertical shear cutter with a depth of cut around 0.001" or so.
Very polished presentation and I loved the build ood job . As for using endmills in the tailstock ...meh .. I use rotabroach and endmills 😁
The lead damper to kill chatter is a really cool idea! I'd hose-clamped wood to things, but the lead's mass is way more effective.
Nice job Quinn! I'm off to give that a go. That's part of the beauty of our machines - they can improve and repair themselves 😄
Thank you for repeatedly featuring the difficulties of turning mild steel to reassure me that I don't suck at using a lathe. I have some lengths of garbage hot-rolled steel from Lowes that I use to make mandrills and other things, and turning that stuff is a NIGHTMARE.
Big box hot roll is the worst
Have you ever tried turning towards the tailstock away from the Chuck? By magic it reduces chatter a lot.
I'm getting fed up with makers saying "Cheap Chinese crap"
It's cheap because they are mass produced. Do yourself a favour and throw out everything you have that's made is China. See what you are left with!
Really love the channel by the way 😀
Now now, while eBay can supply the finest Chinesium, it's reputation isn't entirety undeserved as the bottom of the barrel is more often than not sub par - and not in a good way. The real problem is missmatched expectations with respect to cost/quality imho.
sad but truefor now but...maybe that change?
To be honest a lot of crap comes out of China. But that's not because it's from China, it's because that's what people pay for. You can get almost any quality of product made in China, but basic economics still applies, crap is cheaper than quality if everything else is equal. And for what it's worth people have been conditioned to think of China as being cheap rather than being known for quality so we (I almost wrote "they", but hey, I've fallen for the same fallacy more than once) balk at the thought of paying for quality when shopping for Chinese products. So why are we surprised that so much of the Chinese products we see everyday isn't top quality?
But then a company like Apple sells products made in China at very high prices and no one thinks it's strange, because Apple... Still that new $1200 iPhone was made in China. Now like me you might not like Apple, their policies or products, but you can't really complain about the manufacturing quality. That manufacturing is all done in China, while the design with it strengths and faults was done in the USA.
So you can get quality product, even excellent quality, from China. You just have to pay for it. Another question is if you want to buy from China. There is the question of the sate of the Chinese government. The CCP isn't really making a lot of friends in the US and Europe at the moment.
And Taiwanese, Japanese, German and other more expensive products aren't mass produced? Economies of scale only go so far, when you start scraping the very bottom of the barrel, odds are, you might feel it. The items could be suffering from missing production steps, missing quality control, fundamental design issues... or they could just turn out to be perfectly adequate if you're lucky.
i came hear from clough42 love both channels
Good job Quinn to start with I didn't understand what you were doing, but as you went on it became obvious it was also a good test for your lathe which was good for me as mine is very similar to yours. One thing I noticed when you were cutting out the " Sparkle wrench ", I noticed that you have a scissor lift did you use that to lift your lathe onto the bench? Good vlog as usual from your mate down under John
I used an engine hoist
😯You forgot the "as is tradition"..🤣
I made an er32 chuck in about 3 hours for my logan. It helps to have a threaded spindle nose. and it really helps to have a toolpost grinder. I had ZERO measurable run-out.
I'm addicted to your channel. How did you know, once the taper is initially seated, how far the draw bar would travel to lock?
Good question! That’s easy- it basically doesn’t move at all. You’re tightening, but nothing is really moving. I left 100 thou in there and it was plenty.
It is amazing I've had a mill and a lathe for some 25 years now, but I still learn something every day. Thank you for excellent videos Quinn.
For through hole with long work, make up a draw tube. I have a similar setup for my small lathe (yard sale find) and used 4130 steel tube (McMaster). For your setup, I would use 0.120 wall tube. A bit thin at the thread root (nominal 0.060 on the nominal 0.060 thread root depth), but the load on the drawbar shouldn't be that high anyway so as long at the thread isn't a sharp root, its fine. A stepped bushing at the outboard end similar to your setup to hold the tube centered in the spindle. This gives 3/8 diameter through. When dealing with stock larger than this, most often, it is short parts or the 6jaw or 4jaw are a better choice anyway.
You might have to kiss a few frogs before you find a prince - my experience of Chinese collet holders is mixed - My first ER11 collet holder had ~0.2mm (1µ Furlong) of runout: ruclips.net/video/taIvlIXsqGM/видео.html (The second one I got from a different seller was absolutely spot-on. It's pot luck...)
I hit subscribe as soon as I saw the Upside down backwards threading. There are graduate apprentices at my work who still won't touch that.
I can’t be the only subscriber that thinks about the character “Tuco” in the Clint Eastwood western classic “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly”, where Tuco refers to Clint Eastwood’s character as “Blondie”? I’m always running around the shop now shouting “Blondieeeeeeee”