This week’s popular “Why Didn’t You Just” comment is, why didn’t I buy 5/8-11 threaded rod as use that? Because: 1) I wanted something nicer than that 2) I like to make things. Which is, you know, the whole point of this whole thing.
When I needed a draw-bar for my lathe, I made one. My lathe has a tapered hole in the back, so I just made a taper-plug type things. Then I needed the other of M10 or M12 that I started with, and made another - which is a bit nicer, as I learned a little on doing the first one.
Ouch! I did say I cheated. And I like making things. Ones I can't buy cheaply. I'm running out of time, you see. Oh yes, and I have built and installed James' ELS. It's fantastic. Came up with a neat way of placing the motor and rotary encoder. BobUK.
Good video. After making my ER32 drawbar, I soon cut off the morse taper and shrink fit the body onto a flange mount. It didnt take long before I wanted an ER40 chuck and turned one. Recut the taper to reduce any runout.
nice work! collet chucks are very handy. I'd suggest trying to index it around in your spindle nose... i bet you'll find a position of least error. mark both parts for future reference. also check the squareness of your matings faces and the end (back) of your spindle.
I've also read, but not tried myself, that you can get a thou or two by gently rapping on the collet nut. I mean with a copper hammer, not quiet rhyming.
Hi Tony! I am wondering where everyone is on this young ladies channel. She is so good. Does she need to rebuild an old milling machine to get attention? I have no doubt she could. Quinn, you know what you have to do. I know. You have a day job, just like me. HEY, TONY! Where's that chainsaw Go Kart? ;-) Love to All!
I bought an ER32 collet closer off of AliExpress a few years back. It worked ok but had excessive runout. I recently splurged on a Taiwanese one (Ann-Way, I think). Much better, negligible runout. Mine is swapped between my mill and my lathe, and when holding a cutting tool in the mill, the cheaper holder was only cutting on one flute due to the runout. I just use a piece of threaded rod with a handwheel on the end as a drawbar, because I'm a heathen. I turned an aluminium collar the ID of the spindle bore and have it double-nutted partway down so the rod can't whip around. I'm not a fan of transmitting shock loads through the headstock bearings, so I cut a piece of PVC pipe and milled a couple of slots in it. This slips over the body of the chuck, and you close the nut against it, holding the chuck from turning using the spanner through the milled slots. Pops right out of the taper like Yahtzee.
Not sure what kind of carbide you're using, but a polished pcd insert for aluminum gets me absurdly good finishes in steel on a 7x14 lathe. They're cheap for what you get, around $5 a piece from eBay. It's ground super sharp which makes it easy to take accurate final passes on wet noodle machines. Likewise, ground inserts for aluminum give excellent finishes as well.
Just a suggestion. Go check your runout on the collet chuck again, then mark the position with a sharpie. Loosen the chuck and twist it 90°. See if the runout improves.
I was going to suggest this, just keep trying until you get the smallest error, then mark for future reference. I spent 2 days machining a lump of steel down to make my own ER32 chuck that bolts to the spindle nose, I don't think it's any more accurate then the ebay parts.
@@Thebowber Yes, I have made several ER chucks, different sizes, but now I have a new lathe and have to make some for a D1-5 spindle nose. Wish me luck, I doesn't have a mill to make the pins. I am imagining how I can make them with a 4 jaw.
Hi Quinn, I find your videos brilliant, your attention to detail and your explanations without taking a breath are 10 out of 10 and easy to understand, gives an old bloke like me confidence in attempting more jobs on my lathe, thank you, Cheers Al.
Hi Quinn, I had a similar chatter problem when trying to turn down a long steel shaft using a live center. I switched to a dead center and that solved the problem. My live center was a "high quality" Bison live center, so I was surprised but very glad to solve the problem so easily.
I like how you are down to earth and show some of the older methods. I hit hard times about a year ago and my dreams of a shop were put on hold. Now I'm currently hand fitting hardware store parts and 3d printed components to make a crank driven watchmakers lathe from one of those "modular Chinese lathe/mill/grinder/car buffer/can opener combos". Anyway, you show how you can use skill and patience to solve problems other people I have seen throw money at and go "eh, good enough".
So refreshing. A machinist who know her stuff and is awesomely articulate! I’ve been using ER collets in sizes 16, 32, 40 for many years and they are my go-to holders, even for drilling, tailstock tool holding, etc.. My Jacobs Chuck suffered from isolation and being ignored... I fabricated a drawbar and adapter for my MT5 spindle (~40 year old Maximat Super 11). And, yes, they are used in my Emco jr.-sized MT2 mill too using their standard MT2 holders. I’ve also brought a trick over from my wood lathe I fabricated both follow and steady rests from in-line skate wheels. Eliminates the problems when following or supporting unfinished materials yet nicely controls chatter. Sorry I can’t provide photos but everything is packed for an upcoming and very traumatic move...
I am a total noob beginner on the lathe. My Dad gave me an old hobby lathe to mess around with. Most of the things on your videos are well beyond me at this point, but I love watching what you are building and how you do the different operations... something mesmerizing about it. Thanks for the great videos! Love the humor you pop in there too! Bye by mild garbage steel... ;-)
That's right. I really hate having to put the 4 Jaw especially because it is so heavy and so much more trouble than the 3 jaw. the ER is the best but I have to make them now for my new lathe.
I have to say, you are one crafty machinist, well done, well represented, and a wonderful finish product. Your knowledge and thought to your work reminds me of Joe Pi who is a master at his craft.
I'm making an ER32 collet chuck for myself today, luckily I found a closer with a 1 inch (25mm) hole diameter straight shaft at the back so I can make a through hole chuck. Very important details and helpful tips in this video, thank you. I've learnt a lot from your videos.
Super video with great timing. I have been contemplating a collet chuck for a while and the information provided of the various types and advantages of each was just what I needed. Seeing a home brew solution is icing on the cake!
My used lathe (South Bend 9A) came with a ton of tooling, including a mystery draw bar that I couldn't figure out. It didn't fit any collets that could fit the lathe - it wasn't a tube so not for 3C, not the right threada for 3MT collets, not the right threads for R9 (not that an R9 could ever fit the lathe). No one on the South Bend FB groups could identify it. Total mystery.... until I just watched this video! The lathe also came with an ER32 collet chuck much like this, that fits the #3 Morse Taper in my spindle. I've never used it yet, so hadn't th ught about it. That's what the draw bar is for! Mystery revealed! All thanks to this channel. :)
I made an er32 chuck in about 3 hours for my logan. It helps to have a threaded spindle nose. and it really helps to have a toolpost grinder. I had ZERO measurable run-out.
For this type of work I start with centerless ground stock and then put the follower rest onto the ground stock, that way, I have absolutely no chatter and do a nice thread on the end.
@@DavidLindes Meh. Not sure I want to make ER collets. I have made several one-off "hold this thing that doesn't fit in anything". The reason I made the chuck for it is that I bought a full set from, I think 2 or 4mm up to 20mm, so I should be good for most things.
@@matspatpc cool cool, fair enough. I guess I just want to see All The Things getting made. And maybe do some of it myself, when I hopefully one day have a shop.
@@DavidLindes Sure. Maybe next time I can't hold some odd size in ER25, I'll make one - I don't have a full set of those, although so far I've not found something I can't hold with what I've got - and I haven't got an MT2 colllet chuck for ER32...
Interesting that you are doing this project. I have just purchased a set of ER40 collets with an R8 holder for my mill. I also purchased a Brown & Sharp #9 holder for my horizontal mill so all I have to do now is get the Morse 3 for the lathe and I will be making a draw bar for that. I do have a set of 3AT collets for the lathe that are through hole but they are limited to 1/2".
An excellent video as usual. I have one more ebay find you might enjoy. The "for aluminum" carbide inserts that are honed razor sharp and have loads of positive rake work wonders on our hobby sized lathes. I cut steel with them routinely and they are surprisingly tough.
@John Ghatti Sorry to be so slow, but I have been a bit swamped. I use several different ground "for aluminum" inserts and routinely use any of them on steel. Currently on hand I have: WCGT TCGT VCGT CCGT DCGT The high positive rake and razor sharp edges keep the cutting pressures low and the surface finishes smooth. Our small lower powered machines benefit greatly.
I actually tried to build a drawbar a few years ago. Seeing your design i think i know why project went off the rails, Plus i have learned a few things too. thanks for sharing
You will really like having a collet chuck. Quick and easy holding short parts even on threads. I ordered a collet chuck & collet set with my PM lathe. The chuck is the set-tru type and the 5C collets are very good. Using gage pins it gives better than .0005' total runout. I've only used the inside stop a few times but it works great, one of the advantages of the 5C. The disadvantage is how many collets it takes to make a complete set, but they get used on the tool grinder and spin index also. Thanks for the video.
Still really interesting videos. If it makes you feel any better, I can't get any kind of finish on cold rolled steel either, without aggressive cuts and my 14" lathe weighs 3500lbs. I think the issue has something to do with the grain structure of mild steel, but don't quote me on that. One solution is to do a finishing pass with a vertical shear cutter with a depth of cut around 0.001" or so.
I recently made a drawbar and one thing I added was a delrin doughnut, just slightly smaller than spindle bore, and a tight fit around the drawbar. Shoved it a few inches from the collet end. This way when inserting the bar it prevents the bar from dropping and scratching the spindle bore, and also centers it so it’s easy to find the thread in the back of the collet.
If you want a good finish with carbide when taking a light cut, try xxGT aluminium inserts. DCGT inserts have got me out of trouble a few times when I misjudged and only needed to take off a thin skim. You can't push these cutters hard and they wear out faster than inserts designed for steel but they get the job done. They are also fantastic on wood. I turn quite a few wooden parts and with DCGT inserts I hardly have to do any sanding to finish them.
I like your channel. In the past when I did not have thread gage wires readily available; I’ve resorted to using drill bits of the appropriate size (three of the same size). There are of course apps that you can get on your phone to do the math.
I used a piece of all thread, a spacer and a nut for my draw bar. Probably not the best way to do it but I needed a quick and dirty setup to get some parts done.
Hi Blondihacks, Wow, have just found your channel I will subscribe. Very well explained. You are a very good engineer. It is a pleasure to watch you work. Thank you, JACK (Catherines husband) from the UK!
Nice job on repurposing the collet holder. I bought what looks like the same set of ER32 collets a few months ago. All but mine has the MTS holder for my mini mill. Been wanting a cheap solution for my lathe to use the same collets. My lathe spindle is not tapered so have to buy a collet chuck.
Thank you quinn! I just came accross some old sb collets but finding the drawbar rig for a 11" series O is damn near impossible, this lays out a nice order of operations for me.
Your examination of different aspects of "shop stuff" is always very thurough this collet chuck on is probly real thought provoking at many skill levels. Real quick the things I learned was when my er40 was new (1/16" collets chuck $115 small block chevy piston crown adapter(free) ) It was self loosening constant tightning use no oil on the taper keep the threads clean and oiled it wears in as I used it and became more acurate as time went on and i use it all the time right now I'm friction driving some 3/4" shank 6mm weldon shank holders by a 6 mm dowel i set true to turn the shank so Its (there) dead nuts. and thats the kinda stuff I always gotta do those 5 6mm carbo nitride coated carbide endmills for $18 just to tasty to turn down and I dont want em' to crawl out so the set screw holders will be awesome ya keep it up your awesome! Oh ya I have sieg c6 type lathe I modified the gear change so the thread change and powerfeed are on "cassette's" Ya a real quick change gear box ha ha electronic lead is the modern cure cheap too!!
I have the same kind but ER40. I made a hollow drawbar out of 1" .. max OD that will fit through my spindle .. mechanical tubing. I attached some ends with one having the 5/8" 11 thread but with a .. I think .. a 7/16" hole through it so I can pass long work through it. The other end is set up so I can put a adjustable stop rod through it so I can make repeatable cuts when needed.
I added a rod holding system to one of these 4mt collet chucks, but it still did not hold stock true. The run out was about 0.005. The chuck in the Morse tape was concentric to 0.001 on the outside, but much farther out on the inside of the Morse taper cone. So I used the lathe to remove a few 0.001s parrelel to the inside of the cone. This was a great improvement and the runout is less than 0.001.
It has probably been mentioned before, but listening to your voice, I think I am listening to Martha Stewart......and I keep waiting for you to pull something out of the oven........this was a fantastic video and I plan on trying to make one of these myself.....thank you so much for making this......you are a wonderful presenter.........and very knowledgeable and talented......best wishes, Paul
I added an ER 40 collet chuck on my Sheldon 10X56 Lathe. Runout is identical to the spindle to my ability to measure it. This is a good project! It is amazing how good of quality we get for what we pay for Ebay items. I often go buy a missing die or tap, and also often start a thread single point and do my test fit with a die, after which I always find the nut fits.
@@ryanwicker4037 I think it came from Machifit or Drillpro via Banggood.com. Banggood is kinda the Amazon of China. I've gotten most of the tooling for my Grizzly lathe directly from China. Before the covid kicked in, it took about 7 - 12 days to arrive. It's taking much longer now days. Shipping is cheap. The stuff sold on Amazon is from the same sources, I bet.
It's a looong hole to drill but if you can get a hole through your drawbar you can put a depth stop bar through the hole which is super handy for repeatable setups.
I bought the Shars mt4 to ER40 collet chuck. After I put together my set-tru version I figured I'd never use my taper shank chuck. Today I spent time figuring out how to use the collet stop feature to turn washers. You can use a very small set screw to lock in the right length of socket head cap screw to make your stop, but you can also lightly face off the stop in place for thinner stuff like washers. I'm ordering some flat head screws for better support for stuff under 0.060" thick. My shars runs out well under 0.001" measured on gauge pin.
@@Blondihacks Give it a couple of tries. There is often a useful improvent to be gained by simply loosening and repositioning both the Morse taper shank and the collet in the collet holder. I use ER collets a lot for lathe and mill work and tool holding. Give it a jiggle about and you may well see some improvement to concentricity.
This is EXACTLY where I was going with my lathe! I have a larger 100 uear old beast thats off brandedness leaves me with few options for direct fit parts. Now I'll definitely add it to the cue of lathe specific lathe projects, need to make a new backing plate for the one and only chucking came with. Because the current plate is cracked around 2 bolt holes, and a protector to go over the spindle nose threads.
Rooting around in the stygian underworld that is the cupboard space under the 70 year old Boxford lathes at work, I found a couple of collet chuck sets; I keep meaning to drag them out and try them - this has inspired me to do just that!
My recent er32 Banggood videos.... a viewer commented that the ER nuts should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs, found info to support on the web, Oxtool comment tapping the ER nut with a hard plastic mallet while tightening to assist setting... will be releasing an update video shortly...nice set up on your lathe
Great video, I enjoyed it very much. I liked how you overcame all the little snags and limitations of your equipment. Look forward to the next one. ER collets are really popular in the UK. You can also improve concentricity of them by using a ball race closing nut. These are relatively cheap and incorporate a thrust bearing which enables you to tighten the collet down more. Tests show this positively affects concentricity.
Nice, Quinn. I just did something similar to that with an ER32 collet set I bought in China late last year. Really nicely made, 5um tolerance. 3mm-20mm continuous coverage in a metal case.
Got myself an er32 collet closer a couple days ago, probably same supplier, and nowIm here taking notes on how you did your drawbar haha thanks Quinn awesome vid!
I bought a er32 chuck from China that bolts onto my lathe plate which works well. This also allows a piece to feed through without a stop and also fits closer to the head. I guess you were just using the mt4 part you received instead of making a bolt on plate. Enjoy your videos very much and learn a lot for using my northern mill lathe combo for my garage projects!
I've had good results on troublesome cold-rolled using a KC732 type inserts. I can take light cuts at low SFM without getting that torn up finish. It's a TPG type insert with no chip breaker geometry. I think the neutral rake is what helps.
Simply brilliant ! (And Funny bits too) Lifting impression from internal thread in a small bore. Engineers Blue paste or equivalent and use a wooden match-stick to pick up the pitch. My tiny contribution 😊
Congrats on the new collet closer. I have a 5C chuck similar to Clough42's and I absolutely love having it. I have a D1-4 spindle and find myself switching between the 3 jaw and the collet chuck all of the time. I hope you enjoy your new acquisition as much as I have enjoyed mine.
I had made the stick in thinner material so that it acts as a spring. Then you do not have to tighten it so hard plus it is not so sensitive to heat. So I have it in my machine.
Im waiting for my mt3 er32 collet chuck with tang from ebay my grizzley 12x36 tail stock and dayton 20" drill press both have the same mt3 taper, (which i thought was cool) im hoping this will come in handy as i dont have a mill yet. And no i dont plan on doing any heavy duty milling on the drill press, but just incase i need to mill flats and minor things as i needed to in the past and couldnt, but this video made me feel better about my purchase! Thanks!
I would put an indicator on the nut side of the drawbar after ita tight and see what you get. I've had the threads pull the bar crooked and that gave me additional runout
Ive got a tip for you. My deburring lathe tool .using an half round file. On the flat side at the end Grind it removing about 1/8= to 1/4= leaving it sharp . turning it over grind half away leaving an arc or 30 degree tilting file to make the hook like on deburring cutters .I made one about forty years ago I used an 8* file. Doing lots of parts it works to file chamfer and hook to deburr holes. Ive never had to resharpen it. on a mill it works better then deburring tools
For the most part I prefer using college on my watchmakers lathe,although I have a good selection of chucks. Thanks I really enjoy watching your problem solving videos , stay safe.
Great work and really good demonstrations. I’m fascinated by how the thread is done on the large but don’t quite understand how the tool was aligned with the thread for subsequent passes because thought that you’d need to stop the lathe and back track it in reverse with the lead screw still engaged, but it looked like you were just hand cranking the tool back and then re-engaging the lead screw. Cheers
I bought two of these Chinese MT4-ER32 collet holders for my mill. The MT4 on the mill has less than 0.001mm runout. Both collet holders are all over the place (one has over 0.1mm runout..). I ended up buying a set of MT4 collets, these are almost perfect.
I have an ER32 collet chuck on my 7x12 lathe that I bought on Amazon for ~$100, built to register on the 100mm backing plate that my 3-jaw normally bolts to. Very happy with it, and only out by about 2 thou at the part
This week’s popular “Why Didn’t You Just” comment is, why didn’t I buy 5/8-11 threaded rod as use that? Because:
1) I wanted something nicer than that
2) I like to make things. Which is, you know, the whole point of this whole thing.
All-thread is for amateurs. I was yelling “make a draw bar!”. It turned out good!
@@wildin13 The ER closer nut thread is, but on the draw bar end it’s the Wild West. You can get all manner of posteriors on these things.
When I needed a draw-bar for my lathe, I made one. My lathe has a tapered hole in the back, so I just made a taper-plug type things.
Then I needed the other of M10 or M12 that I started with, and made another - which is a bit nicer, as I learned a little on doing the first one.
Ouch! I did say I cheated. And I like making things. Ones I can't buy cheaply. I'm running out of time, you see. Oh yes, and I have built and installed James' ELS. It's fantastic. Came up with a neat way of placing the motor and rotary encoder. BobUK.
Good video. After making my ER32 drawbar, I soon cut off the morse taper and shrink fit the body onto a flange mount. It didnt take long before I wanted an ER40 chuck and turned one. Recut the taper to reduce any runout.
nice work! collet chucks are very handy. I'd suggest trying to index it around in your spindle nose... i bet you'll find a position of least error. mark both parts for future reference. also check the squareness of your matings faces and the end (back) of your spindle.
@@theoriginalDirtybill And we need more humor on the machinist sites.lol
I've also read, but not tried myself, that you can get a thou or two by gently rapping on the collet nut. I mean with a copper hammer, not quiet rhyming.
Aaaah, i see another collaboration coming ...
love it!
Hi Tony! I am wondering where everyone is on this young ladies channel. She is so good. Does she need to rebuild an old milling machine to get attention? I have no doubt she could. Quinn, you know what you have to do. I know. You have a day job, just like me. HEY, TONY! Where's that chainsaw Go Kart? ;-) Love to All!
I bought an ER32 collet closer off of AliExpress a few years back. It worked ok but had excessive runout. I recently splurged on a Taiwanese one (Ann-Way, I think). Much better, negligible runout. Mine is swapped between my mill and my lathe, and when holding a cutting tool in the mill, the cheaper holder was only cutting on one flute due to the runout.
I just use a piece of threaded rod with a handwheel on the end as a drawbar, because I'm a heathen. I turned an aluminium collar the ID of the spindle bore and have it double-nutted partway down so the rod can't whip around. I'm not a fan of transmitting shock loads through the headstock bearings, so I cut a piece of PVC pipe and milled a couple of slots in it. This slips over the body of the chuck, and you close the nut against it, holding the chuck from turning using the spanner through the milled slots. Pops right out of the taper like Yahtzee.
I was really drawn into this project. Chuck this video into your top ten, and collet a winner. That's all I got.
Bar talk, with a spin.
Another great video, Quinn. I especially enjoyed the 'Sparkle Spanner'!
Send it to Bad Obsession to run through their cad plating rig
She has great terms that she uses. I loved the name too.
Not sure what kind of carbide you're using, but a polished pcd insert for aluminum gets me absurdly good finishes in steel on a 7x14 lathe. They're cheap for what you get, around $5 a piece from eBay. It's ground super sharp which makes it easy to take accurate final passes on wet noodle machines.
Likewise, ground inserts for aluminum give excellent finishes as well.
Just a suggestion. Go check your runout on the collet chuck again, then mark the position with a sharpie. Loosen the chuck and twist it 90°. See if the runout improves.
I was going to suggest this, just keep trying until you get the smallest error, then mark for future reference.
I spent 2 days machining a lump of steel down to make my own ER32 chuck that bolts to the spindle nose, I don't think it's any more accurate then the ebay parts.
Good idea!
@@Thebowber Yes, I have made several ER chucks, different sizes, but now I have a new lathe and have to make some for a D1-5 spindle nose. Wish me luck, I doesn't have a mill to make the pins. I am imagining how I can make them with a 4 jaw.
@@davidwillard7334 ??Who is offering excuses? You don't make any cents
It is amazing I've had a mill and a lathe for some 25 years now, but I still learn something every day. Thank you for excellent videos Quinn.
Thank you for the censorship at 7:40!
My mind goes straight to the gutter when watching machining vids!
:)
Oh, I was wondering wtf that digital blur was
Hi Quinn, I find your videos brilliant, your attention to detail and your explanations without taking a breath are 10 out of 10 and easy to understand, gives an old bloke like me confidence in attempting more jobs on my lathe, thank you, Cheers Al.
All that work you did on that steady rest payed off.
Such rest. So steady.
It did! That thing is a joy to use now
@@Blondihacks Now you need to do the same thing to the follower rest... ;)
Hi Quinn, I had a similar chatter problem when trying to turn down a long steel shaft using a live center. I switched to a dead center and that solved the problem. My live center was a "high quality" Bison live center, so I was surprised but very glad to solve the problem so easily.
I like how you are down to earth and show some of the older methods. I hit hard times about a year ago and my dreams of a shop were put on hold. Now I'm currently hand fitting hardware store parts and 3d printed components to make a crank driven watchmakers lathe from one of those "modular Chinese lathe/mill/grinder/car buffer/can opener combos". Anyway, you show how you can use skill and patience to solve problems other people I have seen throw money at and go "eh, good enough".
Great video. It took me a minute, and then had to go back to make sure I was seeing you bleep out the finger job, absolute gold!
Great new tool there Quinn. Good job and well done.
So refreshing. A machinist who know her stuff and is awesomely articulate! I’ve been using ER collets in sizes 16, 32, 40 for many years and they are my go-to holders, even for drilling, tailstock tool holding, etc.. My Jacobs Chuck suffered from isolation and being ignored... I fabricated a drawbar and adapter for my MT5 spindle (~40 year old Maximat Super 11). And, yes, they are used in my Emco jr.-sized MT2 mill too using their standard MT2 holders.
I’ve also brought a trick over from my wood lathe I fabricated both follow and steady rests from in-line skate wheels. Eliminates the problems when following or supporting unfinished materials yet nicely controls chatter. Sorry I can’t provide photos but everything is packed for an upcoming and very traumatic move...
I am a total noob beginner on the lathe. My Dad gave me an old hobby lathe to mess around with. Most of the things on your videos are well beyond me at this point, but I love watching what you are building and how you do the different operations... something mesmerizing about it. Thanks for the great videos! Love the humor you pop in there too! Bye by mild garbage steel... ;-)
I don’t know how you have lived this long with out one! They are awesome. I get grumpy when I have to put a chuck on my lathe.
That's right. I really hate having to put the 4 Jaw especially because it is so heavy and so much more trouble than the 3 jaw. the ER is the best but I have to make them now for my new lathe.
Watched a ton of machining videos awhile back and your explanation is as good as any. Bravo for leading us through your hack.
I have to say, you are one crafty machinist, well done, well represented, and a wonderful finish product. Your knowledge and thought to your work reminds me of Joe Pi who is a master at his craft.
Just had a 8x32 lathe delivered for my birthday and that make this very timely, thanks for your time😊
Nice job Quinn! I'm off to give that a go. That's part of the beauty of our machines - they can improve and repair themselves 😄
I'm making an ER32 collet chuck for myself today, luckily I found a closer with a 1 inch (25mm) hole diameter straight shaft at the back so I can make a through hole chuck. Very important details and helpful tips in this video, thank you. I've learnt a lot from your videos.
Super video with great timing. I have been contemplating a collet chuck for a while and the information provided of the various types and advantages of each was just what I needed. Seeing a home brew solution is icing on the cake!
There is a guy in New Joisey who made an excellent series on this.
I learn so much watching and listening to you. Thank you for posting your videos.
My used lathe (South Bend 9A) came with a ton of tooling, including a mystery draw bar that I couldn't figure out. It didn't fit any collets that could fit the lathe - it wasn't a tube so not for 3C, not the right threada for 3MT collets, not the right threads for R9 (not that an R9 could ever fit the lathe). No one on the South Bend FB groups could identify it. Total mystery.... until I just watched this video!
The lathe also came with an ER32 collet chuck much like this, that fits the #3 Morse Taper in my spindle. I've never used it yet, so hadn't th ught about it. That's what the draw bar is for! Mystery revealed! All thanks to this channel. :)
I made an er32 chuck in about 3 hours for my logan. It helps to have a threaded spindle nose. and it really helps to have a toolpost grinder. I had ZERO measurable run-out.
For this type of work I start with centerless ground stock and then put the follower rest onto the ground stock, that way, I have absolutely no chatter and do a nice thread on the end.
l love the way her vids start! l bought a red hf laithe, ive had their mill 4 years. A novice learning.
Nice project. I made an MT3 to ER32 chuck all from scratch, including the nut. More for the learning experience than the actual "better".
Now to make some collets, yeah? :)
@@DavidLindes Meh. Not sure I want to make ER collets. I have made several one-off "hold this thing that doesn't fit in anything".
The reason I made the chuck for it is that I bought a full set from, I think 2 or 4mm up to 20mm, so I should be good for most things.
@@matspatpc cool cool, fair enough. I guess I just want to see All The Things getting made. And maybe do some of it myself, when I hopefully one day have a shop.
@@DavidLindes Sure. Maybe next time I can't hold some odd size in ER25, I'll make one - I don't have a full set of those, although so far I've not found something I can't hold with what I've got - and I haven't got an MT2 colllet chuck for ER32...
Very polished presentation and I loved the build ood job . As for using endmills in the tailstock ...meh .. I use rotabroach and endmills 😁
Interesting that you are doing this project. I have just purchased a set of ER40 collets with an R8 holder for my mill. I also purchased a Brown & Sharp #9 holder for my horizontal mill so all I have to do now is get the Morse 3 for the lathe and I will be making a draw bar for that. I do have a set of 3AT collets for the lathe that are through hole but they are limited to 1/2".
An excellent video as usual. I have one more ebay find you might enjoy. The "for aluminum" carbide inserts that are honed razor sharp and have loads of positive rake work wonders on our hobby sized lathes. I cut steel with them routinely and they are surprisingly tough.
I know this is old but do you happen to have the insert number?
@John Ghatti Sorry to be so slow, but I have been a bit swamped. I use several different ground "for aluminum" inserts and routinely use any of them on steel. Currently on hand I have:
WCGT
TCGT
VCGT
CCGT
DCGT
The high positive rake and razor sharp edges keep the cutting pressures low and the surface finishes smooth. Our small lower powered machines benefit greatly.
I do love the sparkel spanner. Very well done...
Great video! I loved the subtle humor in the prussian blue segment.
I actually tried to build a drawbar a few years ago. Seeing your design i think i know why project went off the rails, Plus i have learned a few things too. thanks for sharing
You will really like having a collet chuck. Quick and easy holding short parts even on threads. I ordered a collet chuck & collet set with my PM lathe. The chuck is the set-tru type and the 5C collets are very good. Using gage pins it gives better than .0005' total runout. I've only used the inside stop a few times but it works great, one of the advantages of the 5C. The disadvantage is how many collets it takes to make a complete set, but they get used on the tool grinder and spin index also. Thanks for the video.
Still really interesting videos. If it makes you feel any better, I can't get any kind of finish on cold rolled steel either, without aggressive cuts and my 14" lathe weighs 3500lbs. I think the issue has something to do with the grain structure of mild steel, but don't quote me on that. One solution is to do a finishing pass with a vertical shear cutter with a depth of cut around 0.001" or so.
Really useful project, and great examples of turning ops and setups for us hobbyists. Another great video, Quinn!
How serendipitous! I have ER32 collets and diverse paraphernalia in the snail mail network. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Crap. Headed out to the shop to redo my drawbar now... because now I know a better way to do it! Thanks Q!
Thanks for another great video, Quinn.
Your comment on the carbide cutters was also very helpful.
Great video, Gwen. Many lathe operations very well demonstrated and explained. Thanks!
I recently made a drawbar and one thing I added was a delrin doughnut, just slightly smaller than spindle bore, and a tight fit around the drawbar. Shoved it a few inches from the collet end. This way when inserting the bar it prevents the bar from dropping and scratching the spindle bore, and also centers it so it’s easy to find the thread in the back of the collet.
Hi Quinn,
Nice work today... Thanks for sharing...
Take care
Paul,,
If you want a good finish with carbide when taking a light cut, try xxGT aluminium inserts. DCGT inserts have got me out of trouble a few times when I misjudged and only needed to take off a thin skim. You can't push these cutters hard and they wear out faster than inserts designed for steel but they get the job done. They are also fantastic on wood. I turn quite a few wooden parts and with DCGT inserts I hardly have to do any sanding to finish them.
Flat bottom holes, you make the rockin' world go 'round.
Nice shop Blondi..👍...good going all around too.
...youre one of my go to site for this kinda stuff...thanks!
Good purchase! Congratulations! Good luck!
I like your channel. In the past when I did not have thread gage wires readily available; I’ve resorted to using drill bits of the appropriate size (three of the same size). There are of course apps that you can get on your phone to do the math.
I used a piece of all thread, a spacer and a nut for my draw bar. Probably not the best way to do it but I needed a quick and dirty setup to get some parts done.
Hi Blondihacks, Wow, have just found your channel I will subscribe. Very well explained. You are a very good engineer. It is a pleasure to watch you work. Thank you, JACK (Catherines husband) from the UK!
Great addition to the shop Quinn.
Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK.
Nice job on repurposing the collet holder. I bought what looks like the same set of ER32 collets a few months ago. All but mine has the MTS holder for my mini mill. Been wanting a cheap solution for my lathe to use the same collets. My lathe spindle is not tapered so have to buy a collet chuck.
Thank you quinn! I just came accross some old sb collets but finding the drawbar rig for a 11" series O is damn near impossible, this lays out a nice order of operations for me.
@@davidwillard7334 im all ears brother, where would you suggest i look?
Your examination of different aspects of "shop stuff" is always very thurough this collet chuck on is probly real thought provoking at many skill levels. Real quick the things I learned was when my er40 was new (1/16" collets chuck $115 small block chevy piston crown adapter(free) ) It was self loosening constant tightning use no oil on the taper keep the threads clean and oiled it wears in as I used it and became more acurate as time went on and i use it all the time right now I'm friction driving some 3/4" shank 6mm weldon shank holders by a 6 mm dowel i set true to turn the shank so Its (there) dead nuts. and thats the kinda stuff I always gotta do those 5 6mm carbo nitride coated carbide endmills for $18 just to tasty to turn down and I dont want em' to crawl out so the set screw holders will be awesome ya keep it up your awesome! Oh ya I have sieg c6 type lathe I modified the gear change so the thread change and powerfeed are on "cassette's" Ya a real quick change gear box ha ha electronic lead is the modern cure cheap too!!
Great explanation on the ER collet Chuck. I am new to the lathe having just purchased a Harbor Freight 7 x 10. I want to get a Collet chuck.
Just found your channel! Love it. Love hearing you talk!
I have the same kind but ER40. I made a hollow drawbar out of 1" .. max OD that will fit through my spindle .. mechanical tubing. I attached some ends with one having the 5/8" 11 thread but with a .. I think .. a 7/16" hole through it so I can pass long work through it. The other end is set up so I can put a adjustable stop rod through it so I can make repeatable cuts when needed.
I added a rod holding system to one of these 4mt collet chucks, but it still did not hold stock true. The run out was about 0.005. The chuck in the Morse tape was concentric to 0.001 on the outside, but much farther out on the inside of the Morse taper cone. So I used the lathe to remove a few 0.001s parrelel to the inside of the cone. This was a great improvement and the runout is less than 0.001.
It has probably been mentioned before, but listening to your voice, I think I am listening to Martha Stewart......and I keep waiting for you to pull something out of the oven........this was a fantastic video and I plan on trying to make one of these myself.....thank you so much for making this......you are a wonderful presenter.........and very knowledgeable and talented......best wishes, Paul
I added an ER 40 collet chuck on my Sheldon 10X56 Lathe. Runout is identical to the spindle to my ability to measure it. This is a good project! It is amazing how good of quality we get for what we pay for Ebay items. I often go buy a missing die or tap, and also often start a thread single point and do my test fit with a die, after which I always find the nut fits.
I picked up an er32 chuck with a backing plate to do the same but allows you to use the through hole. Thanks for sharing!
I did the same for my Grizzly lathe. It screwed right on where the three and four jaw chucks attach.
Link??
@@ryanwicker4037 try searching Ebay for ER32 Lathe chuck tool holder. Both Quinn's version and the backing plate version will be listed.
@@ryanwicker4037 I think it came from Machifit or Drillpro via Banggood.com. Banggood is kinda the Amazon of China. I've gotten most of the tooling for my Grizzly lathe directly from China. Before the covid kicked in, it took about 7 - 12 days to arrive. It's taking much longer now days. Shipping is cheap. The stuff sold on Amazon is from the same sources, I bet.
It's a looong hole to drill but if you can get a hole through your drawbar you can put a depth stop bar through the hole which is super handy for repeatable setups.
Good idea! A threaded hole in the end of the drawbar would do nicely for that.
It's been a while...nice project. I love how you adapt on the fly.
it is also possible to get COLLET SET MK 3 / M12 if your clamp with that you have a smaller run out and plus you can have a fast changer
I bought the Shars mt4 to ER40 collet chuck. After I put together my set-tru version I figured I'd never use my taper shank chuck.
Today I spent time figuring out how to use the collet stop feature to turn washers. You can use a very small set screw to lock in the right length of socket head cap screw to make your stop, but you can also lightly face off the stop in place for thinner stuff like washers. I'm ordering some flat head screws for better support for stuff under 0.060" thick.
My shars runs out well under 0.001" measured on gauge pin.
I did the same thing but just used a long piece of M20 all-thread and made a washer. Works fine up to my max 2000rpm speed. (Morse taper 5 for mine).
Quinn, can you index the taper collet holder, and collet in a way to cancel some of the errors?
Yeah, I wonder if that final error was lucky, unlucky, or average.
Good question. Your thinking is where it should be as a machinist. Let’s wait for her reply.
I have read - some where about doing just that.
Yah, great idea. I should experiment with positions and mark the best one.
@@Blondihacks Give it a couple of tries. There is often a useful improvent to be gained by simply loosening and repositioning both the Morse taper shank and the collet in the collet holder. I use ER collets a lot for lathe and mill work and tool holding. Give it a jiggle about and you may well see some improvement to concentricity.
This is EXACTLY where I was going with my lathe! I have a larger 100 uear old beast thats off brandedness leaves me with few options for direct fit parts. Now I'll definitely add it to the cue of lathe specific lathe projects, need to make a new backing plate for the one and only chucking came with. Because the current plate is cracked around 2 bolt holes, and a protector to go over the spindle nose threads.
Rooting around in the stygian underworld that is the cupboard space under the 70 year old Boxford lathes at work, I found a couple of collet chuck sets; I keep meaning to drag them out and try them - this has inspired me to do just that!
I do love a good stygian underworld
My recent er32 Banggood videos.... a viewer commented that the ER nuts should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs, found info to support on the web, Oxtool comment tapping the ER nut with a hard plastic mallet while tightening to assist setting... will be releasing an update video shortly...nice set up on your lathe
I’ve used a very sharp pointed on my tool steal and adj. feed and speed
Great video, I enjoyed it very much. I liked how you overcame all the little snags and limitations of your equipment. Look forward to the next one. ER collets are really popular in the UK. You can also improve concentricity of them by using a ball race closing nut. These are relatively cheap and incorporate a thrust bearing which enables you to tighten the collet down more. Tests show this positively affects concentricity.
Nice, Quinn. I just did something similar to that with an ER32 collet set I bought in China late last year. Really nicely made, 5um tolerance. 3mm-20mm continuous coverage in a metal case.
Got myself an er32 collet closer a couple days ago, probably same supplier, and nowIm here taking notes on how you did your drawbar haha thanks Quinn awesome vid!
I bought a er32 chuck from China that bolts onto my lathe plate which works well. This also allows a piece to feed through without a stop and also fits closer to the head. I guess you were just using the mt4 part you received instead of making a bolt on plate. Enjoy your videos very much and learn a lot for using my northern mill lathe combo for my garage projects!
Link??
@@ryanwicker4037 I bought it on amazon. share.icloud.com/photos/09rAfMZLCnaB9pwuyMTEFnq5w Hope you can get to it.
Thanks! Looking for one that’ll mount to my hf mini lathe. Sucks they’re out of stock
I've had good results on troublesome cold-rolled using a KC732 type inserts. I can take light cuts at low SFM without getting that torn up finish. It's a TPG type insert with no chip breaker geometry. I think the neutral rake is what helps.
Simply brilliant ! (And Funny bits too) Lifting impression from internal thread in a small bore. Engineers Blue paste or equivalent and use a wooden match-stick to pick up the pitch. My tiny contribution 😊
Congrats on the new collet closer. I have a 5C chuck similar to Clough42's and I absolutely love having it. I have a D1-4 spindle and find myself switching between the 3 jaw and the collet chuck all of the time. I hope you enjoy your new acquisition as much as I have enjoyed mine.
I have a MT3 x ER 32 collet holder. I like it except for the short work piece. I used all thread but it works great.
Thanks
Impressed with how much you get out of your lathe. I’ve got 4 at work and struggle a little with them.
Sparkle Spanner! Very nice.
The lead damper to kill chatter is a really cool idea! I'd hose-clamped wood to things, but the lead's mass is way more effective.
I had made the stick in thinner material so that it acts as a spring. Then you do not have to tighten it so hard plus it is not so sensitive to heat. So I have it in my machine.
Im waiting for my mt3 er32 collet chuck with tang from ebay my grizzley 12x36 tail stock and dayton 20" drill press both have the same mt3 taper, (which i thought was cool) im hoping this will come in handy as i dont have a mill yet. And no i dont plan on doing any heavy duty milling on the drill press, but just incase i need to mill flats and minor things as i needed to in the past and couldnt, but this video made me feel better about my purchase! Thanks!
I would put an indicator on the nut side of the drawbar after ita tight and see what you get. I've had the threads pull the bar crooked and that gave me additional runout
7:50 made me chuckle. It’s the little things. 👌
I really like this video, it will become quite useful for me with my home lathe.
Tripod strikes are one of the hazards of RUclips machining.
God help us should tripods unionize 😱
@@danielfogli1760 I dunno... I’m working class, I think I’ll have to give worker solidarity to comrade tripod!
I think it would only raise the prices of tripods, not add any quality of life for them..
Nice very well explained going to make one for my collet holder and thanks for saving me money 👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
Well, this is just absolutely freaking brilliant. Why don't I ever think of this stuff?
Another great video! This is a great idea for a collet chuck solution that I might peruse.
Ive got a tip for you. My deburring lathe tool .using an half round file. On the flat side at the end Grind it removing about 1/8= to 1/4= leaving it sharp . turning it over grind half away leaving an arc or 30 degree tilting file to make the hook like on deburring cutters .I made one about forty years ago I used an 8* file. Doing lots of parts it works to file chamfer and hook to deburr holes.
Ive never had to resharpen it. on a mill it works better then deburring tools
Nice job Quinn!
For the most part I prefer using college on my watchmakers lathe,although I have a good selection of chucks. Thanks I really enjoy watching your problem solving videos , stay safe.
Great work and really good demonstrations. I’m fascinated by how the thread is done on the large but don’t quite understand how the tool was aligned with the thread for subsequent passes because thought that you’d need to stop the lathe and back track it in reverse with the lead screw still engaged, but it looked like you were just hand cranking the tool back and then re-engaging the lead screw. Cheers
Lathe. Stupid auto correct.
Have you ever tried turning towards the tailstock away from the Chuck? By magic it reduces chatter a lot.
I bought two of these Chinese MT4-ER32 collet holders for my mill. The MT4 on the mill has less than 0.001mm runout. Both collet holders are all over the place (one has over 0.1mm runout..).
I ended up buying a set of MT4 collets, these are almost perfect.
I have an ER32 collet chuck on my 7x12 lathe that I bought on Amazon for ~$100, built to register on the 100mm backing plate that my 3-jaw normally bolts to. Very happy with it, and only out by about 2 thou at the part