Hey everyone- since a lot of people seem to be losing sleep over it, no the pinion is not hardened or some fancy alloy that is going to be hurt by heating it. My Chinese lathe is honoured that you all think so highly of its components, but you can count on one hand the parts in these machines that are hardened or any alloy that would mind a little heat. So let’s not bother typing that any more. Now you can get some rest, finally! Also a lot of people saying the shear pin on the leadscrew didn’t do its job. Well, that isn’t that shear pin’s job. That shear pin is to save the leadscrew if you crash with the half nut engaged. It has a 4:1 (plus the rack) mechanical advantage over the pinion and there’s six gears and shafts between the two. That pin ain’t gonna shear from the power feed. This lathe SHOULD have a shear pin on that pinion. That would be nice. But it isn’t that existing shear pin’s fault. If it would was weak enough to shear from that pinion at the other end of a 4:1 gearbox, you couldn’t cut threads with it. It would shear from the force of the half nut pushing hard through a 13 tpi thread. So feel free to complain that there should be a SECOND shear pin here, but don’t blame that one. It’s doing its job by not shearing here. 😉
I also bought a Chinese 6125 lathe, the DC motor will becoming weaker some years later and you have to replace a better AC motor. Maybe I will buy a big second industry lathe.
Hey heads up, the shoulder of the pinion took a slight deformation where you applied the percussive maintenance with your precision impact device. Looks like it may create a wear spot on the cast iron case and pull the pinion out ever so slightly which could affect alignment. It may end up wearing itself some clearance, but just in case you didn't notice it. It can be seen clearly at 13:02 in the video. My 14 year old pointed it out to me. I love to sit down with my 10 and 14 (soon to be 15) year old girls and watch your videos, it inspires the hell out of them. I mean, I tell them all the time they can do this kind of stuff, but Dad is just Dad, I am supposed to say that, and they help me often in the garage/shop. But seeing you doing this work, your openness and honesty in your approach really speaks to them, thanks for putting out this content, it is much appreciated.
I pulled my first commercial lathe out of a green bin, my kids in grade school. That's been almost forty years, and five or six lathes later. I just sold my "extra bridgeport" a couple months ago, my daughter put it on facebook, you meet the nicest people, selling old machine tools, and buying them. It's always nice when one can tear it apart, and make it better than it was before.
We have been there. Keep the faith, you are not alone. I took the pinion out, cut the shaft off, drilled a hole through the pinion and replaced the shaft with a straight bit of ms. Just used the compound for turning. It worked fine as well.
Quinn, in my opinion, this is one of your very best videos, especially for a newbie like myself. I'm bound to make more mistakes than you and this video encourages me to dig into the nitty gritty to solve and fix the problem. Just brilliant!
Oh, flashbacks! A few years ago, I bought an older lathe. The bronze nut for the cross slide/feed had worn out almost completely. All the shavings had ended up in the gearbox...
I just had a thought of a helpful tip: Hot glue the roll pin perpendicular to a screwdriver or scrap of metal. Use it as a skinny helper to position the pin in those tight quarters. Once you get it started just break off the hot glue.
Hi Quinn I just found you channel, and you are completely awesome!!!!! I am a hobby machinist, I have learned so much in just the short time I’ve been watching your channel. Years ago I got a 13/40 lathe for 50 bucks. I had to go through it and clean it up ways where lightly cover in powdery rust(no pitting). I used electrolysis to clean a lot of the parts, polished the ways with ultra fine diamond hone. Got it dialed in, started it up and found that the carriage had been crashed like yours. The same part was bent. I drilled it and used drill rod turned to correct diameter and pinned just like you said. Been working for 15 years now. I love being able to make or build what I need. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it’s nice to learn new things. Take care and God bless you and yours.
Reminded me of pulling the main cam/bull gear assembly out of a much abused & misassembled 1875 platen press. Beautiful old machine, over 100 years old. Did get it fixed but it was quite a puzzle getting the beast to run smooth again. (Nothing’s more fun than running a treadle powered cast iron beast. And yes, I had the same pin problems.)
I don't have machine tools myself, and what I do in my father's shop isn't within tolerances to qualify for the term "machining." Nevertheless I learn so much from these videos - like tapping in the alignment pins before tightening the bolts. These kind of attention to detail things can make a huge difference even for my not-precision projects.
Roll pin pro tip: Grind down the tipmost tip of your pin punch to fit *inside* the roll pin, this makes it nigh-impossible to drop on installation because you can pinch the pin between the punch and your finger instead of having to aim two separate bits AND hit it with a hammer
What impresses me is that you've had this lathe for how many years before you managed to do this? I was replacing this very same part within like, a month of owning the machine lol. So, ya know, well done on that. Side note, my "shear pin" was literally just a rough ground piece of steel. So quality is apparently a moving target with chinese machines... 😂 Edit, slide hammer works great on taper pins. They're cheap, in case you ever see one at a yard sale for a buck or something, pick it up just in case maybe. Edit Edit, I must have fished that roll pin out 7 or 8 times. It was a gas watching you go through this and reliving my own drama. What a pleasure, thanks for sharing this!
I did break the lead screw nut on my cross slide in the first two months (crashed it into the inner stop), but I didn’t have a YT channel at the time. 😁
I'm curious if the small runout would be visible as a pattern in a light finish cut. Basically, the carriage accelerates (by minuscule amount) every two turns of the handwheel and decelerates (averages out) th next two turns.
“with a little deduction and not forcing anything…” Well that’s just not the way I work - picture Homer Simpson... Excellent tips, of course. Excellent content, as usual. Cheers & thanks!
you did a nice job fixing his, but I would have thought the shear pin should have broken the keep this from happening. Maybe you should reduce the pin diameter at the shear point
So sorry you crashed your lathe but I wish you would have done it 6 months ago because I crashed mine and your video would have helped me greatly. I had to fumble through the disassembly and replacement of the pinion gear on my own, and I’m not near the machinist or mechanic you are. Precision Matthews does sell the pinion gear and it was not too expensive as I recall but you have to drill the hole for the role pin into the new pinion gear and it has to be EXACTLY in the correct location on the pinion gear.
Did something "similar" on a 3d printer, but with electricity and the magic smoke. The mainboard on the printer still works, but only if I cut the USB voltage from my control computer. I've now got a new mainboard in stock ready to go just in case I do anything else stupid.
Yes it's a shear pin. Interesting that it didn't break when it crashed. Could try replace it with aluminum for safety, but then there's the risk it will break too soon.
Ohh, to me it happend the same. But my maschine is a little bit different in construction. I replaced it with a complete new shaft. The old one was gummy steal.
She'll probably just turn a new pinion on the lath... doh! Glad you're back in business. You may need a backup lathe for repairing your lathe! ... Oh who am I kidding, you would have chucked the pinion in the mill and turned it holding a tool in the vice.
It almost came to that. If straightening hadn’t worked, I would have put the bent one back in, made a new shaft, then took it apart again and put the new one in. 😅
Hey Quinn, Great vid. I did a similar thing under power feed, my lathe is probably the same as yours only badged differently. Probably only had the lathe a few weeks so bit green tried to get a bit to close to the chuck panicked and well crashed my nice new lathe :( It was the same part as yours, I did try heating the part but didn't have any decent source of heat ended up buying new one, cost me 58 fookin £ :( My lathe did not have the brass sheer pin, it was steel!!! I have a ton of that oil mat stuff (work for a ferry company on the Mersey) Nuff rant. TFS, GB :)
Great video! I've been think about getting this lathe from PM. Would you still recommend it or go with something different? How easy would it be to get a replacement part in case you were not able to fix it?
it seems like it would make sense to full insert the taper pins before tightening the bolts down as they should be there to correctly align the bolts? also instead of tapping directly on the taper pins screw in the bolt to be more gentle on the pins when tapping. I just worry that you might hurt the threads and make removal harder next time.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nothing wrong with this method. I just wanted to suggest a nice easy lathe project. Not sure how well known they are as far as tools go, with a few different attachments (various thread sizes for example) they can be really useful. Sometimes its really helpful to be able to tappy-tap-tap instead of gradually build up the force. If you use them to remove dowel pins you do that first, before undoing the bolts. Probably not worth buying for most people, but simple to make out of some random bits of steel.
Awkward tension pins/roll pins. Take a piece of wire (I use stainless tig welding wire) Put it through the hole that the pin is to go through. Slide the pin down the wire to begin seating in the hole. Use a punch to start the pin. Remove wire and complete reseating of the pin.
@@Blondihacks I have used a magnet have several few look like a old tv antenna they extend out have sever different sizes tips ..could also have got down in the oil bath I think not sure how tight the room you had ,, great video ,, did you get the spare part ordered yet ??? I have a mini mill/drill press I need to find the wire diagram for it wires come apart don't know where they go ,, unit from the slow boat area ..you did great on the repair see you in the next video ..
Great repair. An alternate method of straightening is to heat the part and then put a wet rag on the high spot which will pull it back toward straight. Keep on keeping on.
bent a axle on my 4 wheeler 15 years ago .. priced a new one said I would try and fix this 1st ,, they told me and other people said do NOT heat it ,, it was hardened ,, I have a cheap pipe bender with the dies and a jack in it .. rolled the axle on a flat surface marked the bend .. put it in the bender and rolled it again checking and marking the spot repeated 3 or 4 times ..reinstalled tested ok .. just have to know what your heating is not hardened or you have to get it re hardened
Another great video. I’m pleased you managed to straighten the part ok. Probably better tolerance than when new🤣 If you ever have to straighten anything like that again I recommend cutting a radius in the end of a cold chisel. Not to try to cut the part but to be able to direct the impact pressure to exactly the right spot. The same thing is employed to straighten crankshafts. There are some great RUclips videos of this process. Take care and stay safe.
I have succesfully straightened round items in the following way: first I machined aluminum half-rings, with the ring outer diameter double (or so) the outer diameter of the axle. (The rings were made with internal diameter to match the outer diameter of the axle that needed straightening, and then I sawed the rings in half.) The half-rings allowed me to exert a lot of force, without risking damage to the surface of the axle. I used a setup with three half-rings. I clamped the assembly in a vise with wide enough jaws, with the middle half ring set to push at the spot along the axle where it had been bent. So one jaw of the vise was pushing only the outer ends of the (short) axle, and the other jaw was pushing only the one half-ring at the spot where the bend had occurred. I supported the axle, so I could back off the jaws without the axle sliding down. With the jaws hardly pushing I slowly rotated the axle to feel where it was binding a little. At the orientation where the axle was binding the most I turned up the force of the vise, and then I backed off again. If I could feel no reduction of the bend then I would try again, turning up to a little more force, each time backing off again, and then rotating the axle to feel if there was still an orientation where it was binding a little. That way I was able to straighten that axle back to a point where I could roll it over a surface plate and I could no longer see any wobble.
Quinn, you nailed it, I love repairing more than the oh sh#$%. Good thing for you you were dealing with parts easy to see and feel. Unfortunately last night I was repositioning my $100.00 indicator on my mill to set up my rotary table and accidentally knocked it off on to the concrete. Well didn't work when I picked it up. Rest of the evening spent digging out watchmakers screwdrivers and doing an autopsy on said instrument, smallest screwdrivers I had, akin to working on fleas balls. Had to disassemble the Guage and found the tiny clock arm mechanism knocked out of its groove. Removed it slid it back in place, worked perfect. So never give up no matter what. I'm 71 years old but still figure difficulties out. Hang in there girl, you are brilliant.
Nice job Quinn, we have straighten a few shafts between two Vee blocks and using the arbor press . I realize your shaft is very small but I am always amazed at the memory metal has. some times you give the handle (its long) a tug and the shaft springs back . Your patience and approach to problem solving is inspirational ... Pete M
Trick I learned from my dad a long time ago: if you've got a roll-pin to insert in an awkward spot, a matchstick/toothpick will give you some extra surface to hold on to to get it started in the hole.
Supporting the leadscrew with a machinist jack for tapping out the tapered shear pin is a great idea and convinces me it's time to make some machinist jacks.
Quinn, I love watching your videos because your a down to earth person (not afraid to make mistakes). It's great to see the repair of equipment at times and also all of your projects.
I tuned in expecting a replacement and got a repair. I’m impressed. That was even better than the other two Canadian versions of Crash, one by David Cronenberg and the other by Paul Haggis.
This gives me hope and encouragement to try to fix the rod for my power feed on my tiny unimat. The I tried to "fix" it by buying a replacement (ebay, all parts are vintage and have quirks). I have a "better" rod but it is just bent in a different places. I now have two so I can pick one to try to fix.
It's good to see manufactures are still protecting consumers interest by making sure a pricy precision ground and hobbed part fails before the inexpensive bog standard shear pin needs replaced!
I don't think there is a world where the shear pin on the lead screw would break before anything in the apron would fail. It's there to protect the lead screw itself. Also some guy called Don Not told me that this ain't the most pricey machine in the world. I ain't judging Quinn, I'm sure this is a very useful and durable piece of machinery when used properly.
@@Shit_I_Missed. I take it you never had a Clausing, LaBlonde or Elliot Cardiff Major. We have broken shear pins on the lead and/or power feed shafts on all of them. (Pushing too heavy a cut) The pins are made of brass and/or aluminum at very specific diameters for a reason, you know. Just ALWAYS either use a factory pin or an exact shop made duplicate,,,including the alloy and they will do their job.
@@mathewmolk2089 Perhaps I misunderstood how the power was being transferred on this machine. I assumed it was going through the worm gear on the apron into the gears inside the apron which then bent the drive pinion. As Blonde said, the shear pin on the worm gear would be intended to save the half-nut if that is what was driving into the stalk. I guess the half-nut is also in the apron, but that's not what I intended to include.
In that application, the Starrett framing hammer is referred to in industry as a 16 oz. precision alignment probe, or a tactical lateral impact enhancement device.
Intrusting. look at you lathe . i say that because i own a Colchester , master graduate lath. One hounded & 50 yeas old . it as the same arrangement as your lath. But for the trends on the drive shaft it as the key groove the lenth of the shaft . New models we fitted with leaded screw. as a separate . add in the 50's on I'm explaining this because you've given me an idea. a sliding thread to rotate & give me a stat t & end point. when signal pint Threading & I can then fit & ues a trading diel.. in closing i will just point out that as with your siystom the carriage is driven by the rack in my case it is that what drives the thread cutting. too But it as no trading dial to ues it i would time 3 pints on the lath Whit a marker. ONE [ the chuck] Two the [ drive shaft] & Three [the saddle] . Now i have a way to have a trading dial. {thank you for having you accident} there is always a silver lining if we look for it , Les Thompson England . glad you got it fixed . XXX
Love your vids! I was a machinist in a refinery for years, now retired and missing machining! I don’t want this to sound bad, certainly not my intentions but I love to see a woman doing this kind of work in a previously male dominated trade, good for you! Keep up the great work! Plus, you’ve got me thinking about getting a hobby lathe and possibly a mill after I finish my Charger project.
I'm working hard to not retire, I worked twenty years at a small machine shop with a woman who did very fine work, and "worked straight up, with the guys" a real peer, in every way. I spent two decades in the marines, and it was good to find "peers" there as well. It's also a challenge for a man to work in a woman's venue, I worked many years on assembly lines, on the side, in female dominated work. We each have our own ways, and learn across the gap, I think.
Would you consider making a replacement part like that, with the repaired part back in place? I am curious how deep the Hobby goes. I enjoy all your videos, and your sense of humor. Thank you for sharing.
One slip and down the hole we fall It seems to take no time at all A momentary lapse of reason That binds a life for a life The one regret you will never forget There'll be no sleep in here tonight
On EMCO lathes (made in Austria) the leadscrew is attached to the gear by a simple 3mm aluminium pin. if something crashes it cuts itself acting as a fuse. I crashed 3 or 4 times without any damage, just the pin to be replaced.
Nice job Quinn, great vid!!! I have a 17" X 60" South Bend Turnado that needs new clutch plate, could we schedule a service call? LOL Thanks for sharing the repair with us.
A design flaw in the the lathe, why didn't the lead screw brass shear pin, shear? It would have saved you a lot of trouble if it did what it was suppose to do. At least you did a good repair and it only cost you your time and a bit of oxyacetylene gas.
For small engine oil changes, I bought one of those suction oil removers. It may not get 100%, but the ease factor so I actually change oil more often I hope makes up for that.
I bought a little Atlas lathe years ago at an estate sale that had a similar problem with it I paid $10 for it because the carriage wouldn't move but somebody had crashed it while it was in feed and did quite the number on it thank goodness there were still parts at that time available mid-90s ALL HAIL QUINN!!! Not only Machinist,, but up-and-coming machine maintenance mechanic..😸😼👑
When I have to take apart something oily I copy the manual pages then with one of those $10 laminators put each in plastic. Nice to work with and don’t have to worry about ruining the original manual. Bought one of those Bridgeport rebuild guides and laminated the whole thing.
Did you look at the rack gear inn the location where the pinion was bent. In shops I have worked in. There were guys that drilled with large drills in the tool post. Generally when this kind of thing happened the rack gear could also be damaged. Just a thought.
Nothing more satisfying than a successful repair. Got a couple questions. 1) how heavy was that casting and lead screw? You didn't seem to struggle with it at all. You're either really strong (which honestly wouldn't surprise me) or it's lighter than it looks. 2) why is over filling the oil bad? I don't doubt that it is, but I like to understand why things are a certain way instead of just accepting.
Awesome vid, as always 🙂 I was surprised you didn't have a dowel extractor, they are a great fairly simple turning project that maybe your viewers would enjoy / benefit from you making. I know you'd do it in a inspirational can do kinda way 🙂
Awesome video and a good result. One way I have used to straighten things is to put it in a hydraulic press, and use a dial indicator to measure the deflection.
Love your videos, as well as, your sense of humor. I’m always impressed at your level of mechanical understanding. I’m an amateur machinist and have learned a lot from you. I also find your voice soothing, very easy to listen to.
![Yailin La Mas Viral, @kreizyk.official - Dale 2 (Remix) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JaYHBzgqz94/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey everyone- since a lot of people seem to be losing sleep over it, no the pinion is not hardened or some fancy alloy that is going to be hurt by heating it. My Chinese lathe is honoured that you all think so highly of its components, but you can count on one hand the parts in these machines that are hardened or any alloy that would mind a little heat. So let’s not bother typing that any more. Now you can get some rest, finally!
Also a lot of people saying the shear pin on the leadscrew didn’t do its job. Well, that isn’t that shear pin’s job. That shear pin is to save the leadscrew if you crash with the half nut engaged. It has a 4:1 (plus the rack) mechanical advantage over the pinion and there’s six gears and shafts between the two. That pin ain’t gonna shear from the power feed. This lathe SHOULD have a shear pin on that pinion. That would be nice. But it isn’t that existing shear pin’s fault. If it would was weak enough to shear from that pinion at the other end of a 4:1 gearbox, you couldn’t cut threads with it. It would shear from the force of the half nut pushing hard through a 13 tpi thread. So feel free to complain that there should be a SECOND shear pin here, but don’t blame that one. It’s doing its job by not shearing here. 😉
.....and if it was hardened, it wouldn't have bent in the first place!! Another interesting and informative video Quinn, Thanks!
LoL 😆
I also bought a Chinese 6125 lathe, the DC motor will becoming weaker some years later and you have to replace a better AC motor. Maybe I will buy a big second industry lathe.
@@mwakelin if it was hardened it may have stripped teeth of gears .
Hey heads up, the shoulder of the pinion took a slight deformation where you applied the percussive maintenance with your precision impact device. Looks like it may create a wear spot on the cast iron case and pull the pinion out ever so slightly which could affect alignment. It may end up wearing itself some clearance, but just in case you didn't notice it.
It can be seen clearly at 13:02 in the video. My 14 year old pointed it out to me. I love to sit down with my 10 and 14 (soon to be 15) year old girls and watch your videos, it inspires the hell out of them. I mean, I tell them all the time they can do this kind of stuff, but Dad is just Dad, I am supposed to say that, and they help me often in the garage/shop. But seeing you doing this work, your openness and honesty in your approach really speaks to them, thanks for putting out this content, it is much appreciated.
As soon as you found the issue, I thought, "ok, just make a replacement with the lathe", and then I learned how people end up with multiple lathes. 😁
I only have 7 😆
I pulled my first commercial lathe out of a green bin, my kids in grade school. That's been almost forty years, and five or six lathes later. I just sold my "extra bridgeport" a couple months ago, my daughter put it on facebook, you meet the nicest people, selling old machine tools, and buying them. It's always nice when one can tear it apart, and make it better than it was before.
We have been there. Keep the faith, you are not alone. I took the pinion out, cut the shaft off, drilled a hole through the pinion and replaced the shaft with a straight bit of ms. Just used the compound for turning. It worked fine as well.
Using the compound to do the turning is a great workaround. Will remember that!
Quinn, in my opinion, this is one of your very best videos, especially for a newbie like myself. I'm bound to make more mistakes than you and this video encourages me to dig into the nitty gritty to solve and fix the problem. Just brilliant!
Oh, flashbacks! A few years ago, I bought an older lathe. The bronze nut for the cross slide/feed had worn out almost completely. All the shavings had ended up in the gearbox...
I just had a thought of a helpful tip: Hot glue the roll pin perpendicular to a screwdriver or scrap of metal. Use it as a skinny helper to position the pin in those tight quarters. Once you get it started just break off the hot glue.
Those Knipex compound-leverage channel-lock pliers are the absolute business, aren't they? Not a cheap tool, but really worth the price.
Best hand tool I own, honestly. Love them
Those Knippers! Two in my bug out pouch and one in the main toolbox. Use the heck out of them. Love em. Money well spent.
@@somebodyelse6673 "stong enough to damage themselves" really seems like a feature, not a bug.
Quinn, to remove tapered pins with threads, you need a slide hammer... works like a charm. and likewise to reinstall em...
So tell me, what don't you know? You impress me with each video I watch.
Hi Quinn I just found you channel, and you are completely awesome!!!!! I am a hobby machinist, I have learned so much in just the short time I’ve been watching your channel. Years ago I got a 13/40 lathe for 50 bucks. I had to go through it and clean it up ways where lightly cover in powdery rust(no pitting). I used electrolysis to clean a lot of the parts, polished the ways with ultra fine diamond hone. Got it dialed in, started it up and found that the carriage had been crashed like yours. The same part was bent. I drilled it and used drill rod turned to correct diameter and pinned just like you said. Been working for 15 years now. I love being able to make or build what I need. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it’s nice to learn new things. Take care and God bless you and yours.
Great job! I use the pulling bolt threaded into the taper pin to tap the pin in fully and then fully tighten
Reminded me of pulling the main cam/bull gear assembly out of a much abused & misassembled 1875 platen press. Beautiful old machine, over 100 years old. Did get it fixed but it was quite a puzzle getting the beast to run smooth again. (Nothing’s more fun than running a treadle powered cast iron beast. And yes, I had the same pin problems.)
That was awesome! I knew you could do it Quinn! And I'm sorry I laughed a lot when you tried to fit the pillow block again hahaha 🤣
I don't have machine tools myself, and what I do in my father's shop isn't within tolerances to qualify for the term "machining." Nevertheless I learn so much from these videos - like tapping in the alignment pins before tightening the bolts. These kind of attention to detail things can make a huge difference even for my not-precision projects.
Brass taper pins are commonly used in Horology.
Done and done.
And with only one single and one double imperial fist shake.
Excellent.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Roll pin pro tip:
Grind down the tipmost tip of your pin punch to fit *inside* the roll pin, this makes it nigh-impossible to drop on installation because you can pinch the pin between the punch and your finger instead of having to aim two separate bits AND hit it with a hammer
Thanks for sharing!
Great Job, keep learning.
I learn something every time....
What impresses me is that you've had this lathe for how many years before you managed to do this? I was replacing this very same part within like, a month of owning the machine lol. So, ya know, well done on that. Side note, my "shear pin" was literally just a rough ground piece of steel. So quality is apparently a moving target with chinese machines... 😂 Edit, slide hammer works great on taper pins. They're cheap, in case you ever see one at a yard sale for a buck or something, pick it up just in case maybe. Edit Edit, I must have fished that roll pin out 7 or 8 times. It was a gas watching you go through this and reliving my own drama. What a pleasure, thanks for sharing this!
I did break the lead screw nut on my cross slide in the first two months (crashed it into the inner stop), but I didn’t have a YT channel at the time. 😁
Funny thought. The part might have had worse runout from the factory to begin with 🤣
Ahh pig mats the saviour of our machine shop floor many times.... especially when someone left the tap on while filling coolant barrels with water
Very informative and helpful, I have a similar lathe and will have to replace my slightly bent leadscrew soon. Thanks.
This was helpful to watch. One day soon I need to tear apart the apron on my BD920 and fix why my power cross feed is not working.
Nice repair!
I'm curious if the small runout would be visible as a pattern in a light finish cut. Basically, the carriage accelerates (by minuscule amount) every two turns of the handwheel and decelerates (averages out) th next two turns.
“with a little deduction and not forcing anything…” Well that’s just not the way I work - picture Homer Simpson... Excellent tips, of course. Excellent content, as usual. Cheers & thanks!
another enjoyable video
Thanks!
Great job! Glad it went so smoothly for you.
Hey Quinn! Do you know anyone on the YT that went full Robrenz on their cheap lathe and made it super precise (and posted the process here)?
Google "polishing a turd". You'll find a lifetime supply.😇🙂😜🤪🤣🙃💩
Good job.
you did a nice job fixing his, but I would have thought the shear pin should have broken the keep this from happening. Maybe you should reduce the pin diameter at the shear point
That’s only Canadian left if we’re facing South.
I lol'd multiple times, and I learned something. I wish you were my shop teacher. Oh wait, you are!! Thank you!!
So sorry you crashed your lathe but I wish you would have done it 6 months ago because I crashed mine and your video would have helped me greatly. I had to fumble through the disassembly and replacement of the pinion gear on my own, and I’m not near the machinist or mechanic you are. Precision Matthews does sell the pinion gear and it was not too expensive as I recall but you have to drill the hole for the role pin into the new pinion gear and it has to be EXACTLY in the correct location on the pinion gear.
Did something "similar" on a 3d printer, but with electricity and the magic smoke. The mainboard on the printer still works, but only if I cut the USB voltage from my control computer. I've now got a new mainboard in stock ready to go just in case I do anything else stupid.
Yes it's a shear pin. Interesting that it didn't break when it crashed. Could try replace it with aluminum for safety, but then there's the risk it will break too soon.
Lovely work. Two comments, one simple and one potentially not. 1) Drain valve (you're welcome) :) 2) Torque limiter. That got ya thinkin? Best wishes
Ohh, to me it happend the same. But my maschine is a little bit different in construction. I replaced it with a complete new shaft. The old one was gummy steal.
"Canadian Left" . "Imperial Fist Shake"... ha love it !
well done
Is the remaining pinion runout enough to cause variable mesh and variable backlash with the pinion?
Not just any old packer!!
"percussive maintenance"... 🔨
YEA!
She'll probably just turn a new pinion on the lath... doh! Glad you're back in business. You may need a backup lathe for repairing your lathe! ... Oh who am I kidding, you would have chucked the pinion in the mill and turned it holding a tool in the vice.
It almost came to that. If straightening hadn’t worked, I would have put the bent one back in, made a new shaft, then took it apart again and put the new one in. 😅
I really REALLY enjoy your videos….. that is all
Nice fix. I would order the replacement gear, if you have it, you will never need it. If you don’t have it, you will need it four sure…
I have the same problem, the beam is out, but where can i buy those spare part?
What’s the red pliers you are using Quinn?
So you can remove the gearbox knobs with the machine running at low speed?!?
Apparently 😂
Canadian left! 😂🤣😂🤣🥰
Hey Quinn, Great vid.
I did a similar thing under power feed, my lathe is probably the same as yours only badged differently. Probably only had the lathe a few weeks so bit green tried to get a bit to close to the chuck panicked and well crashed my nice new lathe :( It was the same part as yours, I did try heating the part but didn't have any decent source of heat ended up buying new one, cost me 58 fookin £ :( My lathe did not have the brass sheer pin, it was steel!!! I have a ton of that oil mat stuff (work for a ferry company on the Mersey) Nuff rant. TFS, GB :)
Great video! I've been think about getting this lathe from PM. Would you still recommend it or go with something different? How easy would it be to get a replacement part in case you were not able to fix it?
👍👍.
Good job! Thanks for the look.
it seems like it would make sense to full insert the taper pins before tightening the bolts down as they should be there to correctly align the bolts? also instead of tapping directly on the taper pins screw in the bolt to be more gentle on the pins when tapping. I just worry that you might hurt the threads and make removal harder next time.
Next project: fabricating a slide hammer. Its a hammer for pulling, works great for dowel pins like this. Its actually nice of them to use this type.
I think her method worked well.
Pulled carburetor jets the same way. Taped non metering area with a 4-40 tap.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nothing wrong with this method. I just wanted to suggest a nice easy lathe project. Not sure how well known they are as far as tools go, with a few different attachments (various thread sizes for example) they can be really useful.
Sometimes its really helpful to be able to tappy-tap-tap instead of gradually build up the force.
If you use them to remove dowel pins you do that first, before undoing the bolts.
Probably not worth buying for most people, but simple to make out of some random bits of steel.
@@dans_Learning_Curve both work, but I see the point, some people like having the right tool, ya know?
ah yes the slide hammer its got me in trouble many times being my goto. lol
I was thinking slide hammer too, but what she did was brilliant. One of those why didn't I think of it moments.
Awkward tension pins/roll pins.
Take a piece of wire (I use stainless tig welding wire)
Put it through the hole that the pin is to go through.
Slide the pin down the wire to begin seating in the hole.
Use a punch to start the pin.
Remove wire and complete reseating of the pin.
Good tip!
Ill second on good tip! I deal with those pins fairly often and will make good use of that suggestion.
@@Blondihacks I have used a magnet have several few look like a old tv antenna they extend out have sever different sizes tips ..could also have got down in the oil bath I think not sure how tight the room you had ,, great video ,, did you get the spare part ordered yet ??? I have a mini mill/drill press I need to find the wire diagram for it wires come apart don't know where they go ,, unit from the slow boat area ..you did great on the repair see you in the next video ..
Great repair. An alternate method of straightening is to heat the part and then put a wet rag on the high spot which will pull it back toward straight. Keep on keeping on.
For a master class on straightening check out Kieth Fenner's videos.
@@markbernier8434
Thanks for suggesting Keith Fenner's video on shaft straightening. It is quite an interesting and effective technique.
bent a axle on my 4 wheeler 15 years ago .. priced a new one said I would try and fix this 1st ,, they told me and other people said do NOT heat it ,, it was hardened ,, I have a cheap pipe bender with the dies and a jack in it .. rolled the axle on a flat surface marked the bend .. put it in the bender and rolled it again checking and marking the spot repeated 3 or 4 times ..reinstalled tested ok .. just have to know what your heating is not hardened or you have to get it re hardened
Another great video. I’m pleased you managed to straighten the part ok. Probably better tolerance than when new🤣 If you ever have to straighten anything like that again I recommend cutting a radius in the end of a cold chisel. Not to try to cut the part but to be able to direct the impact pressure to exactly the right spot. The same thing is employed to straighten crankshafts. There are some great RUclips videos of this process. Take care and stay safe.
Good idea! I actually have a dull chisel I could have used
I have succesfully straightened round items in the following way: first I machined aluminum half-rings, with the ring outer diameter double (or so) the outer diameter of the axle. (The rings were made with internal diameter to match the outer diameter of the axle that needed straightening, and then I sawed the rings in half.) The half-rings allowed me to exert a lot of force, without risking damage to the surface of the axle. I used a setup with three half-rings. I clamped the assembly in a vise with wide enough jaws, with the middle half ring set to push at the spot along the axle where it had been bent. So one jaw of the vise was pushing only the outer ends of the (short) axle, and the other jaw was pushing only the one half-ring at the spot where the bend had occurred. I supported the axle, so I could back off the jaws without the axle sliding down. With the jaws hardly pushing I slowly rotated the axle to feel where it was binding a little. At the orientation where the axle was binding the most I turned up the force of the vise, and then I backed off again. If I could feel no reduction of the bend then I would try again, turning up to a little more force, each time backing off again, and then rotating the axle to feel if there was still an orientation where it was binding a little. That way I was able to straighten that axle back to a point where I could roll it over a surface plate and I could no longer see any wobble.
Quinn, you nailed it, I love repairing more than the oh sh#$%. Good thing for you you were dealing with parts easy to see and feel. Unfortunately last night I was repositioning my $100.00 indicator on my mill to set up my rotary table and accidentally knocked it off on to the concrete. Well didn't work when I picked it up. Rest of the evening spent digging out watchmakers screwdrivers and doing an autopsy on said instrument, smallest screwdrivers I had, akin to working on fleas balls. Had to disassemble the Guage and found the tiny clock arm mechanism knocked out of its groove. Removed it slid it back in place, worked perfect. So never give up no matter what. I'm 71 years old but still figure difficulties out. Hang in there girl, you are brilliant.
Nice job Quinn, we have straighten a few shafts between two Vee blocks and using the arbor press . I realize your shaft is very small but I am always amazed at the memory metal has. some times you give the handle (its long) a tug and the shaft springs back . Your patience and approach to problem solving is inspirational ... Pete M
That stuff about different oils was REALLY fascinating! Thanks...
Trick I learned from my dad a long time ago: if you've got a roll-pin to insert in an awkward spot, a matchstick/toothpick will give you some extra surface to hold on to to get it started in the hole.
put the rollpin in the gear outside the apron much easier
Supporting the leadscrew with a machinist jack for tapping out the tapered shear pin is a great idea and convinces me it's time to make some machinist jacks.
availed crashing the dam Lath we have all done it . been there got the shirt ,
Quinn, I love watching your videos because your a down to earth person (not afraid to make mistakes). It's great to see the repair of equipment at times and also all of your projects.
I love watching the mistakes and how to fix them. Always fascinating to see how other people approach problems.
Exactly this - it's great to see people who are humble about what they do.
I tuned in expecting a replacement and got a repair. I’m impressed. That was even better than the other two Canadian versions of Crash, one by David Cronenberg and the other by Paul Haggis.
This is one of your best voice-overs ever with your "adult language" intermission and your imperial fist shakes. Excellent!
This gives me hope and encouragement to try to fix the rod for my power feed on my tiny unimat. The I tried to "fix" it by buying a replacement (ebay, all parts are vintage and have quirks). I have a "better" rod but it is just bent in a different places. I now have two so I can pick one to try to fix.
It's good to see manufactures are still protecting consumers interest by making sure a pricy precision ground and hobbed part fails before the inexpensive bog standard shear pin needs replaced!
I don't think there is a world where the shear pin on the lead screw would break before anything in the apron would fail. It's there to protect the lead screw itself. Also some guy called Don Not told me that this ain't the most pricey machine in the world. I ain't judging Quinn, I'm sure this is a very useful and durable piece of machinery when used properly.
@@Shit_I_Missed. I take it you never had a Clausing, LaBlonde or Elliot Cardiff Major. We have broken shear pins on the lead and/or power feed shafts on all of them. (Pushing too heavy a cut) The pins are made of brass and/or aluminum at very specific diameters for a reason, you know. Just ALWAYS either use a factory pin or an exact shop made duplicate,,,including the alloy and they will do their job.
@@mathewmolk2089 Perhaps I misunderstood how the power was being transferred on this machine. I assumed it was going through the worm gear on the apron into the gears inside the apron which then bent the drive pinion. As Blonde said, the shear pin on the worm gear would be intended to save the half-nut if that is what was driving into the stalk. I guess the half-nut is also in the apron, but that's not what I intended to include.
In that application, the Starrett framing hammer is referred to in industry as a 16 oz. precision alignment probe, or a tactical lateral impact enhancement device.
Great job there. If ordering a pinion also consider ordering a couple of shear pins;
lg
I wonder if the brass safety pin is too big ? Pretty sure my friend said the 10" southbend I have uses catgut?? No not sprocket...
Great job.
Nice repair.
Great content.
I also liked your line boring solution.
Thank you, EM.
Intrusting. look at you lathe . i say that because i own a Colchester , master graduate lath. One hounded & 50 yeas old . it as the same arrangement as your lath. But for the trends on the drive shaft it as the key groove the lenth of the shaft . New models we fitted with leaded screw. as a separate . add in the 50's on I'm explaining this because you've given me an idea. a sliding thread to rotate & give me a stat t & end point. when signal pint Threading & I can then fit & ues a trading diel..
in closing i will just point out that as with your siystom the carriage is driven by the rack in my case it is that what drives the thread cutting. too But it as no trading dial to ues it i would time 3 pints on the lath Whit a marker. ONE [ the chuck] Two the [ drive shaft] & Three [the saddle] . Now i have a way to have a trading dial.
{thank you for having you accident} there is always a silver lining if we look for it ,
Les Thompson England . glad you got it fixed . XXX
Love your vids! I was a machinist in a refinery for years, now retired and missing machining! I don’t want this to sound bad, certainly not my intentions but I love to see a woman doing this kind of work in a previously male dominated trade, good for you! Keep up the great work! Plus, you’ve got me thinking about getting a hobby lathe and possibly a mill after I finish my Charger project.
I'm working hard to not retire, I worked twenty years at a small machine shop with a woman who did very fine work, and "worked straight up, with the guys" a real peer, in every way. I spent two decades in the marines, and it was good to find "peers" there as well. It's also a challenge for a man to work in a woman's venue, I worked many years on assembly lines, on the side, in female dominated work. We each have our own ways, and learn across the gap, I think.
She's a alphabet person
@@AnnaBelle-sp9kq Uh,,,, well some people are good at letters and some at numbers!
@@turbobus6731 lol maybe you don't get it. Quinn is a he/she
@@AnnaBelle-sp9kq oh,,,, well,,,,, everybody has to be something!
What's blue and grey and sticky?
Not your lathe carriage anymore!
Would you consider making a replacement part like that, with the repaired part back in place? I am curious how deep the Hobby goes. I enjoy all your videos, and your sense of humor. Thank you for sharing.
One slip and down the hole we fall
It seems to take no time at all
A momentary lapse of reason
That binds a life for a life
The one regret you will never forget
There'll be no sleep in here tonight
On EMCO lathes (made in Austria) the leadscrew is attached to the gear by a simple 3mm aluminium pin. if something crashes it cuts itself acting as a fuse.
I crashed 3 or 4 times without any damage, just the pin to be replaced.
Projects are fulfilling in their own right, but there's something about maintenance that really seems to scratch a certain itch!
good repair good result...now just don't go on another.....Bender :D
You continue to amaze me. Your mechanical ability and knowledge rival anyone. You are also a talented entertainer.
Nice job Quinn, great vid!!! I have a 17" X 60" South Bend Turnado that needs new clutch plate, could we schedule a service call? LOL Thanks for sharing the repair with us.
A design flaw in the the lathe, why didn't the lead screw brass shear pin, shear? It would have saved you a lot of trouble if it did what it was suppose to do. At least you did a good repair and it only cost you your time and a bit of oxyacetylene gas.
Great job Quinn! It never fails, when I crash a machine I need that machine to make the part to fix it.
Ain’t that the truth!
For small engine oil changes, I bought one of those suction oil removers. It may not get 100%, but the ease factor so I actually change oil more often I hope makes up for that.
I inadvertently learned that a very slightly loose drill bit will pull out your average roll pin.
Machinist: How to grab and pull this thing?
Drill bit: Hold my beer
I bought a little Atlas lathe years ago at an estate sale that had a similar problem with it I paid $10 for it because the carriage wouldn't move but somebody had crashed it while it was in feed and did quite the number on it thank goodness there were still parts at that time available mid-90s ALL HAIL QUINN!!!
Not only Machinist,, but up-and-coming machine maintenance mechanic..😸😼👑
When I have to take apart something oily I copy the manual pages then with one of those $10 laminators put each in plastic. Nice to work with and don’t have to worry about ruining the original manual. Bought one of those Bridgeport rebuild guides and laminated the whole thing.
Never trust a manual that doesn't have greasy finger prints on it.
"So, i'll put it between centers on what remains of my lathe here...." 🤣
You could use a bearing bump tool like used in Clough42 latest video @13:42 to repair this shaft
ruclips.net/video/-q1HeWBlrxY/видео.html
Did you look at the rack gear inn the location where the pinion was bent. In shops I have worked in. There were guys that drilled with large drills in the tool post. Generally when this kind of thing happened the rack gear could also be damaged. Just a thought.
Nothing more satisfying than a successful repair. Got a couple questions.
1) how heavy was that casting and lead screw? You didn't seem to struggle with it at all. You're either really strong (which honestly wouldn't surprise me) or it's lighter than it looks.
2) why is over filling the oil bad? I don't doubt that it is, but I like to understand why things are a certain way instead of just accepting.
Awesome vid, as always 🙂 I was surprised you didn't have a dowel extractor, they are a great fairly simple turning project that maybe your viewers would enjoy / benefit from you making. I know you'd do it in a inspirational can do kinda way 🙂
Awesome video and a good result. One way I have used to straighten things is to put it in a hydraulic press, and use a dial indicator to measure the deflection.
This video is so strange to watch because of the bizarre way that you Canadians pronounce the word filet 😛
Love your videos, as well as, your sense of humor. I’m always impressed at your level of mechanical understanding. I’m an amateur machinist and have learned a lot from you. I also find your voice soothing, very easy to listen to.