The day I added a 2x72" belt sander was the day I realized it was destined to be the most important tool in my shop. Perhaps not a first purchase, but I built one for about $500. Years of use now, I highly recommend it as a support tool!
Amen to that, and I can't imagine a better tool for grinding cutters than one that is designed to put a razor's edge on heat-treated knives. You could even make a jig to do all kinds of grinding profiles perfectly and consistently.
not everyone requires the devils bean to function. some of us are quite ok with some caffeinated drink (like coca cola, or another coke producer since coca cola has something against me because of my skin colour) or some energy drink ... or we just sleep enough. either way, no reason to drink that bitter, shitty tasting devils diarrhea or even become addicted to it.
@@russellstarr9111 It's the devilswork! these are corrupted cocoa beans, nothing more. and instead of one day being made into delicious chocolate, they have to suffer, be cast into fire, tortured and crushed between stones and then finally boiled as a beansoup as well. don't ask me what they did to deserve this fate, though ...
Re: unattended machines, the horizontal bandsaw (blue-green) in our shop caught fire one day... smoke from the motor, then flames by the time we sprinted to unplug it! So, yeah, don’t run out to Dunks after starting a cut...
After I bought my Bridgeport a year ago, I asked my machinist buddy if there was any point in keeping my floor mount drill press around, since the BP should be able to do everything the drill press could. He said yes absolutely, use the comparatively "disposable" drill press for hogging out big holes in nasty steel rather than risking breaking Bridgeport parts doing a lot of routine fabrication tasks.
Many of my wood turning friends run the lathe or drill press too fast for drilling, especially with large Forstner bits. It is common for such folks to have Forstner bits with blue teeth due to overheating. The folks also do not appreciate that the blue means they have lost the temper. They just apply more pressure or speed the next time and wonder why the bit is not drilling well. Good video. Dave.
If the Forstner bits are made of high speed steel, they did not loose temper cutting wood, even if the tips are blue. HHS takes 1500+ degrees F to anneal.
Most of my turning friends have cheap import Forstner bits like my set. The set did not state HSS, so I expect it is e.g., O1 or some other alloy which will lose its temper. HSS is preferred but a lot more expensive. Dave.
Not just woodworkers - I've seen lots of overheated cutting tools in machine shops, too. One guy correctly switched down to the low speed range on a Bridgeport mill, but failed to notice that reversed the spindle rotation. Black and blue 1-1/4" end mill and vast smoke clouds yes, material removal - not so much. The welders in particular always seemed to be completely oblivious of proper drill speeds, to them it's faster is better, even with ear splitting chatter. One of my pet peeves (and one reason why I had my own guarded private stash of cutting tools for when the shop's are all burnt and I don't have time to wait for new tools) is when operators don't know when stainless steels have work hardened and they just keep trying to push through, changing out and destroying cutter after cutter....
Thanks for the side bar on surface speed and its effect on drill speed. I wish you'd do a video just on this so I could share it with my jeweler friends who don't believe it and think they should always drill at the highest speed possible for _reasons_ which make opposite sense to reality. OR some of them think you should always drill at the slowest speed possible to avoid burning bits and on small bits which don't go very far in one revolution end up running _under_ the right speed by quite a bit. Hopefully you'll include the feeds part of speeds and feeds and talk about how fast to bring the spindle down.
Blondihacks, not quite sure how long I have been a loyal viewer of your channel but every video has been worth the wait! Love your humor. Don't overlook the importance of the lowly (really not so lowly) vice!
Agreed, I have a 3-1/2" Craftsman (USA made) and a 4-1/2" Wilton bullet (made in 73) that is like new and still wanting another vise. I am looking at the Doyle 4" sold at HF which is made with 60K ductile iron like the older Wiltons are made of and if caught on sale can be had for around $100 US. Also a decent set of aluminum jaw inserts is very handy to have with them for holding round stock or holding something without marring it.
@@MegaLostOne Clough42 had a nice tip on putting thrust bearing on Wilton vise. Easy mod and makes a difference. I think the video was something like top ten tools.
No single vice can do everything you need, but most of us don't have room on our benches for more than one, if we even have room for that. A neat trick that I've seen on a few benches was where a receiver hitch was mounted under the front or side of the bench (usually with a leg or support under it), then multiple vices, grinders, small anvils, etc would be mounted onto quarter inch thick plates and welded to hitch stubs. Let's you change out the location of your vice and tooling quick and easy, and you can usually get to it on three sides. A nice addition is if you have the room, is to weld a heavy pipe into a tire rim and put another hitch mount on the top. See that setup for vices and grinders a lot.
@@richardmorton1310 Wilton changed their design over the years and some of them didn't use a thrust washer for pulling the movable jaw in, my vise is one of them and since it uses the yoke over the screw as the thrust washer I cannot put a thrust bearing in mine for that but thanks for the tip.
@@rallen7660 I actually should have typed my reply differently. I have the Craftsman and while it is a nice vise it's a cast iron and not a ductile iron so I plan to replace the Craftsman with the Doyle vise when I catch it on sale. The ductile iron vises are a lot stronger than the cast iron vises.
That had me remember they had to shoot a bottle of acetylene that was burning some years ago. It was in a small city close to me, so they had to evacuate people from a radius of about half a km from the bottle. Beeing outside the sniper had a clear shot at it. A acetylene bottle in a burning building is on another level of dangerous, as I'm sure you learned about.
@@johnnyjames7139 I bought one of those a few years ago and it works great but the MAP bottles cost $50 each. I recently priced an oxy-acc kit and it was $1,200 with bottles. That means after 22 bottle of MAP gas, you've bought an oxy-acc kit but you don't have an oxy-acc kit. The question is how long will it take to go through 22 bottles? I've been through 7 or 8 so far.
I used to work for a company that went out to clean up derailments. We cut up rail cars with propane & oxygen torches. Way cheaper than using acetylene. The only disadvantage was it took longer to start a cut. Once started it cut just as fast. Big torches! I kind of think that once the cut is stated much of the fuel comes from burning the iron with the oxygen. Can anyone confirm that?
Last year I purchased a Cuttermaster grinder with a radius attachment. It is great to sharpen end mills and even ball nose end mills. It can sharpen several other tool cutters as well. Love watching your videos !!
Woodworker here, on the note about the drill press also being a press. I was clamping some sheets of 1/2 inch plywood together to make a thicker sheet for a router table (overkill, whatever). It was about 18x24 inches. After applying glue. I was able to get clamps around the sides, but not in the middle. Aside from filling a buckets with water and grabbing every piece of iron in the house to use gravity (and only getting 60-100 pounds depending on how hard I scrounged around), I decided to use the drill press. I put the work on the table, loosened the chuck to the point that the jaws retracted inside, cranked the quill down on the work and strapped a single 15 weight to the quill handle. This was when I was just starting out and didn't realize clamping cauls where a thing. But hey, it worked out.
Quinn, I would recommend instead of a dedicated bench grinder, to get one that has a bench grinder on one side and a 2 inch belt sander on the other. I use the belt sander way more than the grinder side of mine to clean up parts and to do some shaping as well.
Get a cordless angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, and wire brush. It’s a little more primitive than a bandsaw (and messier), but still extremely flexible and fast.
"High speed stealing..." I love it. Between you and James on Clough42 I find myself, watching and enjoying, more than the other channels that I subscribe to by a wide margin. Some time back I made an Excell spreadsheet that had an entry for each material with a surface feet per minute column. From that I had a place for a diameter then the calculation gave me a rpm recommendation. Works for turning and for drilling. I can't seem to keep charts handy and always have a computer nearby. I love (really, really enjoy) your videos. I especially like the variety of subjects and that you show mistakes (failures) along with successes. From my perspective, this is an outstanding method for teaching. Keep up the great work!
I once had a lovely home office 15 * 12 foot loft conversion. Now I have 4 feet in a corner because it has become my wifes' sewing room. Where else could she store the 2 sewing machines, 2 sergers, 2 coverstitch machines, 2 dress dummies, a sewing table and a wardrobe full of her fabric stash. The thread storage takes up a cubic yard. When I do get my hobby machine shop I am going to put 6 different types of boimetric locks on it to stop her from stealing that space as well. So thank you Blondihacks - in the first minute you triggered me into the hell that has become my home office..... Oh by the way I work at home all the time programming ........
Thanks for the tour. With the 6*4 bandsaw you may find that the upper blade guide actually has two threaded holes that you can put the tightening knob in so you can get the guide a couple of inches closer to the work. I found out by mistake when I unscrewed the knob right out. Also on mine the plate (angle bracket) that supports the spring adjusting screw where it joins the adjusting rod was installed 180 degrees the wrong way. This meant that you used half the thread of the screw before there was any tension on the spring that controls feed rate. I reversed the plate and now can get the saw to point of balance which gives you the full range of feed rate available. This is handy for set up some times to so you don't need a third hand to hold the saw up.
I primarily do woodworking, but I picked up a portable bandsaw frame recently and I will be getting a cordless bandsaw to go in it. The table is a genius idea
I started years ago with a 4x6 saw, a grinder with a wire wheel opposite the grinder, a few vises, some files, a hand drill and a drill press and a torch. Acquiring a mill and a lathe and all the fittings, and taking courses in how to run them *and weld dollowed by a welder) came years later. :)
A few other options for torches: if you just need to heat and solder/braze, an air-acetylene torch works very well. They are usually aimed at plumbers for soldering copper water pipe, but they work very well for all sort of metalwork that doesn't need welding temperatures. Another good option is Oxy-MAPP (or whatever the MAPP alternative is these days). This doesn't get quite as hot as Oxy-Acetylene, so not great for welding, but it's much hotter than Propane or MAPP alone. It's especially great for large-scale heating since you aren't limited by the 1/10 rule. This lets you run a big rosebud off fairly small tanks.
Another great video! Your knowledge is phenomenal as is your willingness to share with us, the uninformed masses. Great stuff. I've been binge watching your videos and see no reason to quit now.
The naval fleet is a great analogy. The lathe is the battleship, the mill is the aircraft carrier, the tool and/or d-bit grinders are the munitions re-supply vessels. The bank account is the congressional naval budget committee.
Had no idea about the 1:10 rule but thanx for telling me Im using a very small set cause I don't need it often ...thank god for hardening I've got a big (well compared to others..ca. 50x50x50cm) electrical oven for heat treating specially build... One important thing nobody told me was the grinding stuff ...it's bad for the other machines so I have two separate rooms now one for grinding and the dirty works and the main work shops for turning,milling and so on...😇😎
The other big bonus to the band saw is you get to keep the drops instead of turning them into chips. Im in the commercial millwork business and the band saw is a money maker in the shop. Instead of planing off stock to chips in the dumpster your re-sawing usable material off the blank.
I totally agree about the Mig welder wire. Having been a Nuclear certified welder for Tig and Stick, which I can now do both at home, I end up most times using my Hobart 140 Mig. I only use the flux core and never have had a problem with penetration or appearance of the weld .
'Hope something was useful in this video?' They're priceless!! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to share your knowledge in such a crystal-clear, extensive, and informed way. I'm the despised (?) woodworker with a large shop being more and more tickled by machining perspectives. I know you made these videos for me, and I do appreciate them more than you could even imagine. They're a real treat. Greetings from France.
Besides the big boy tools, the one that gets the most use in my shop is a rechargable angle grinder. Great for both cutting and grinding/sanding jobs. Mine is a Makita with brushless motor.
Maybe not for everyone but a good belt grinder is a tool I am not willing to live without. Can save tons of time on non critical features or for prepping stock for welding
Nice video. Support of support. A Scotch Brite deburring wheel on a bench grinder is an incredible thing. I use a big mig welder but stay with two small tanks. That way it still fits under a bench, when you run out you swap and refill at your convenience plus easy to handle and fits in a car. A wall mount garage vacuum like a VacuMaid is incredible to have, with the addition of a shield it'll keep you from having to move your cutter grinder. Chips and debris are easily dealt with. Use a remote on the outlet so you can keep the vacuum out of the way.
about 2 yrs ago now, i had been saving up and finally bought my Jet HVBS 712 horizontal/vertical metal cutting bandsaw and it changed my life and my productivity probably quadrupled from cutting allllllll metal for any project with a low end chop saw. one of my fav pieces of equipment in my shop.
I got myself a porta bandsaw last week for my bday. What a life changer that is compared to the old hacksaw. It’s actually so fast, I almost feel I’m not getting much use out of it, because every time I need it, it gets the job done in mere seconds. Those cuts used to take 10+ minutes. It’s almost anti climactic, in a way…. In a good way.
Oxypropane works for everything except welding. I use it for cutting, heating, and brazing. The reason it doesn't work for welding is it's very hard to get a neutral flame otherwise it would work for welding too.
The chemistry of the oxygen acetylene flame has a two stage burning process that consumes the ambient oxygen in the atmosphere, correctly adjusted it will give a "neutral " flame, the only flame that can be used for fusion welding. Ray.
Good video. Adding to the need of bench grinders. You can buy all sorts of different wheels(buffing,wire, diffrent grits,drill bit sharpening attachments etc.) The low horsepower bench grinder I have,used to be just for tungsten sharpening for welding. Now I have buffer wheels on it for small parts that I don’t trust the big bench grinder with. Thanks for the video!
One of the best investments I ever made was floor standing drill press. Mine only goes down to 200 RPM, but it goes up to 3600 RPM. Drilling those tiny little holes with a hand held drill motor usually ends up with a broken bit. Another great investment was the combo belt/ disc sander. It's great for removing the burrs after using the bandsaw for those fabrication needs.
With a little thought and fabrication, you can add a third stepped pulley between the motor and spindle pulley, using two belts to slow down the spindle speed. The setup was commercially available 80ish years ago and still may be. JIM
Great video, Quinn 😊. I literally sold my baby (1966, Chevy Bel Air) to buy my oxy/acetylene tanks and torch set. When you need it you reeeally need it! 🤣. That goes for all of those tools. I initially bought a cold cut saw, but without buying a bunch of expensive blades for different materials it's just not nearly as versatile as my old bandsaw. It mostly just sits on the floor however, super great for cutting tubing for for fabrication as it's just soooo fast 😁. Being a person with a shop in perpetual evolution I can relate to all of this. Welding bench will be next for me... if I can dig it out of the snowbank to continue that particular build 😏. Cheers!
Great shop run through and Thank You Thank you for talking about drill speed. It is amazing how many people don’t know or don’t agree with the larger the drill size bit the slower the speed must be ran. So many people burn the ends, dull or break their drills and always blame the drill as being cheap junk, saying they should have paid more. Just because drills especially older cord electric drills run at high speed does not mean you should use all of it.
This may not be relevant to this video, but perhaps it’s entertaining. In college I worked summers in the in-house machine shop at a large paper mill. More than once we drilled four inch holes with a very large drill press. Ran so slow you could easily count the revolutions. We also had huge lathes for resurfacing large paper machine rollers (12 ft diameter 40 feet long kinda big). You climbed a ladder and sat in a chair at the control station on the carriage head. You road the carriage while machining. Could set it up and start a pass, climb down and go get lunch and be back before a single pass was complete.
I just found your videos today and have been binging while enjoying my covid! I am a retired educator of 30 years, and I am really impressed with the care and clarity that you put into your work. Also, I love how you focus on how to get it done with hobby level equipment. brava :)
On the subject of surface grinders, yes 99% of them are big and pricey, thankfully, if your lucky you can find a smaller bench top one like I just have! They may look small, but boi are they heavy and SOLID! So if you can can find one of these, I’d highly recommend the investment as you get all of the benefits of a surface grinder, but not the drawbacks of big floor footprint or often massive price tag!
Such a great video… just moved shops to my big shed and we’ll see if I can squeeze some more cool tools in there! Maybe i might get a bandsaw next… it would be nice to stop cutting 4 in. Stainless with a hacksaw..
I've had one of the 4X6 bandsaws for 25? years. The basic machine is OK, but as with so many Chinese ... cheap, many things will need some adjusting, modifying. Once that is done they work quite well. Lots of videos. I got lucky and was given an old Italian, much abused, industrial cold saw. What a difference! Much faster, beautifully smooth cuts. Heavy vice, blade turns away from the fence so parts fall free and never jamb into the fence slot. I'm using steel blades.
This is a great list, except now I have to buy another portable bandsaw to setup as a vertical. I have a 4x6, and you're exactly right about how miserable it is in the vertical orientation. One thing I'd add to the list, if people want to do precision work in steel, is getting a TIG setup. They only need one kind of gas for everything, and the learning curve for ferrous metals isn't that high. Yes, they're slow, but the prices have come down quite a bit for import inverters. Suggest one that does ac/dc with HF start and runs on 220v.
Quinn, GREAT work - as always!! Three questions: 1) where would you recommend your viewers look for those ‘surface speed charts for drills’? B) what is that contraption on the stud to the right of your drill press, with what appears to be a DeStaCo clamp attached? III) in your lovely discussion of how oxy/acetylene can give you “that finger of God heat” you mention the ‘bomb in the room’ issue of acetylene and not exceeding the capability of 1/10 of capacity of tank per hour… how would an old white-haired humble weekend warrior do that math? I’ve known since I was knee-high to a grasshopper that there was liquid acetone lurking in there - and why - but no one ever bothered to ‘splain how to know how close one might get to dancing with the devil… Always like your vids, ALWAYS like your humor, huge THANK YOU for helping me get thru the pandemic!
Another thing to think about when outfitting a shop is the size of tools you need to compliment each other. Your tool set seems to be very well suited to the work you do. I've seen others who have a Sherline lathe and a full sized Mill. They do not play well together. One has to think about moving parts from machine to machine and if the work envelope of one machine will not hold what the previous machine worked on then things are difficult. Keep up the good work. lg no neat sig line
on the subject of the mig ... you can get a gas/gasless welder where you change the polarity when using gas etc ... a good all rounder as you can run flux core when space is a concern but gas when you want a high quality weld (as a hobbyist)
Another stellar video Quinn! I just ordered the Grizzly G0516 7" x 12" metal cutting bandsaw...you're helping me to quit "over think" things when I "need" a tool or machine and just buy the darn thing, it's not like I won't use it! Life's too short...and, every year that goes by, it's getting shorter. Always look forward to your enjoyable videos, love your dry humor too, thanks again!
Got a small tank of shielding gas for my little Hobart MIG welder. They don't have to be huge. (And, wow, what a difference it made - my only prior experience with welding had been with the flux-core wire that had come with the machine.)
Additionally, you can weld mild steel with CO2 shield gas instead of Argon, it's somewhat cheaper and a 5kg bottle of CO2 lasts way way longer than a 5 liter Argon bottle.
If it's total versatility at the least cost is what you are after an AC/DC buzz box will outshine all other processes hands down, Tere is even stick aluminum..The skill level is quite a bit higher, but practice makes perfect.
I discovered your channel recently and I love how down to Earth you are and how on point you make your videos. I binge watched many of them and I learned a lot. I make my living with my small metal workshop and you gave me lots of information that will make my life easier. Thank you!
Quinn. Moving heavy things. I have an Excel/Optimum 260kg mill on a 90 kg cabinet base. I got some high quality lockable professional ball bearing castors and the results are night and day different from the usual run of the things. Expensive, yes, but really worth it. You do need a smooth hard floor though.
I really enjoy your channel. You have got me to get back into using my metal working shop....Dusted off my lathe and gave it a bunch of necessary attention. Now to the OTHER tools. One of the most necessary "tools" or rather additions is CASTERS on everything. I even have my 20 ton press on casters. My lathe is on a heavy base and on casters. Yes it does have a flat bed. In a small shop having everything on casters allows for maximum flexability. Another very useful tools it a conversion chart on the wall. I consult mine all the time and having it where you can just quickly look at it saves a ton of time. Love you videos and keep up the great work!!!!
Today i learned something new.. I have used oxyacetylen welders Since i was 15 and totally missed that there is a limitaton of how much gas you can drain out before it becomes a safety issue.. I guess i have to go and read some more about it.. Btw you have an awesome RUclips channel👍
my day job is boilers and chillers. with that out of the way i can say that i have most of the tools you call extra and i haven't picked up my milling machine yet. i have been doing every thing i can with the other tools and now i find i need milling machines.
A portable band saw with a stand is probably one of the most used tools in my garage. I have a full size mill, an atlas lathe and wish I had bought a portaband sooner.
Another lovely video. Cute tool and cutter grinder. My biggest tool by weight is probably the 1959 year K.O. Lee Aberdeen T&C grinder. Just watched my first Stefan Gotteswinter video: so soothing for this career T&C guy! Top notch content, Quinn Dunki.
Once purchased, the bench grinder could also be made into a belt and/or disk sander, along with buffing, tool cutting/sharpening, wirebrushing, deburring, etc. Really all a bench grinder really is, is a dual shaft induction motor with a bunch of attachments to put on. What those attachments look like is really not limited to anything once it arrives in the workshop. :)
And I have yet to see ANYONE on youtube properly use a hack saw. 40 to 60 strokes a minute and use the entire blade. Feet at sholder width with you toes on the plane of the cut. = First week apprentice stuff. With the proper blade and technique you can give the angle grinder boys a run for their money on a 1/2" grade 3 bolt in a vise. ,,,, And cut square and to length too and handle the part you cut off too without dunking it in water first.
I'm a hacksaw fan too. I find I can get pretty decent speeds. One thing which helps is WD40 as a lubricant, liberally applied to the blade and cut. Makes the sawing much easier and faster. But I do like my bandsaw for straight cuts and mitres. They're much neater.
Thank you for the tip about drill press speeds. So far I was more into woodworking and my drilling speed indeed was too high (however I had no clue about this). When I adjusted drill press for a lower speed and less pressure I started to get nice long spiral shavings and the "right" feeling while drilling. It so much better now! I am happy happy!
As far as I know Drill Presses come in two varieties, Metal or wood. The wood drill presses usually cannot run slow enough for large drills with out overheating the drill and dulling it. I think most wood drill presses run at about 700 RPM thereabouts. Metal band saws will run at about 300 RPM or slower. Also, most Metal Drill Presses I have seen use three drive pulleys to obtain the slower speeds. So, if you see a Drill Press with only one drive belt and two drive pulleys it probably is for wood working or very small drills (3'16" or less) be sure you get the right tool for the job.
snow.... or a bag of ice. cold is as good to have as a tool as heat, as in a torch. and a band saw is a must!! it makes cutting angles sooo much easier. and you can make one cut and get several parts.... I love my cheap harbor freight bandsaw. also, if you are playing around making crucible steel, the chips that come off the bandsaw are perfect for making steel.
I do quite a bit of shed hackery, machining and fabrication, and one thing I couldn't be without is my 72 x 2 inch belt grinder. I hate my pillar drill, hardly ever use it, do everything on the mill if possible
There are helical attachments for D-bit grinders. Great for touching up flutes. They cam as you extend what could be considered a spindle. Some attachments just handle a set flute count.
For all my tools that I don't use very often I fabricate a steel stand on casters so I can wheel it into the middle of the room then back into the corner when finished. If its something like a flypress that needs to be a bit more rigid just bolt a lump of steel to the floor that you can then bolt your tables to.
OMG, THANK YOU for the Elephant joke reference! I tend to use that exact same analogy frequently at work, and the Venezuelan/American Chief Developer always looks at me like I’ve had a little stroke.
Totally agree about having both a cutoff bandsaw and a porta-band on a stand. Have both at the day job and use them constantly. Price for a small vertical metal cutting bandsaw was just prohibitive.
I really need to upgrade my old Harbor Freight bench top drill press. Mine's got a weird quirk that I have to put the belt on the higher speed pulley settings to get any appreciable torque at the quill. That sounds backwards, but the problem is the belt can't get any bite in the smaller pulley wheels at the motor end. As you can imagine this is less than ideal for drilling steel and a near-disaster for 1" and up hole saws.
Thank you for all your videos! You are an excellent mentor! For non-powered tools, your future video, Vises, my oldest tool is a 150+ years old vise. Files? 4 drawers in two toolboxes of mine, are used to organize all my files. Belt sanders. -and regarding hot joining, Soft solder, Hard solder, Brazing? Abrasives? Again, thanks! Thank you for the jokes too!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
"how big of a mill can I squeeze into my husbands sewing room" - love it
I hope you know that that's a reference to someone
Hands down the funniest thing i have heard on ANY metal-working video 😂😂😂
- making lunch
- making enemies
lol. I love your humor!
The day I added a 2x72" belt sander was the day I realized it was destined to be the most important tool in my shop. Perhaps not a first purchase, but I built one for about $500. Years of use now, I highly recommend it as a support tool!
Amen to that, and I can't imagine a better tool for grinding cutters than one that is designed to put a razor's edge on heat-treated knives. You could even make a jig to do all kinds of grinding profiles perfectly and consistently.
"Even the lightbulb is junk..."
BaHaHaHa... pure gold, right there.
Primary machines covered, secondary machines covered and still no coffee machine on the list.
Thank you Quinn, you rock!
Electricity is assumed. So is coffee.
Electricity to run the machines and tools, and coffee to run the operator.
not everyone requires the devils bean to function. some of us are quite ok with some caffeinated drink (like coca cola, or another coke producer since coca cola has something against me because of my skin colour) or some energy drink ... or we just sleep enough.
either way, no reason to drink that bitter, shitty tasting devils diarrhea or even become addicted to it.
Why does coffee smell so good and taste so bad?
@@russellstarr9111 It's the devilswork!
these are corrupted cocoa beans, nothing more. and instead of one day being made into delicious chocolate, they have to suffer, be cast into fire, tortured and crushed between stones and then finally boiled as a beansoup as well.
don't ask me what they did to deserve this fate, though ...
I prefer my caffeine carbonated. Coffee 🤢
Re: unattended machines, the horizontal bandsaw (blue-green) in our shop caught fire one day... smoke from the motor, then flames by the time we sprinted to unplug it! So, yeah, don’t run out to Dunks after starting a cut...
After I bought my Bridgeport a year ago, I asked my machinist buddy if there was any point in keeping my floor mount drill press around, since the BP should be able to do everything the drill press could. He said yes absolutely, use the comparatively "disposable" drill press for hogging out big holes in nasty steel rather than risking breaking Bridgeport parts doing a lot of routine fabrication tasks.
Many of my wood turning friends run the lathe or drill press too fast for drilling, especially with large Forstner bits. It is common for such folks to have Forstner bits with blue teeth due to overheating. The folks also do not appreciate that the blue means they have lost the temper. They just apply more pressure or speed the next time and wonder why the bit is not drilling well.
Good video.
Dave.
When I lose my temper my colour doesn’t change much but the air around me tends to turn a little blue.
If the Forstner bits are made of high speed steel, they did not loose temper cutting wood, even if the tips are blue. HHS takes 1500+ degrees F to anneal.
Most of my turning friends have cheap import Forstner bits like my set. The set did not state HSS, so I expect it is e.g., O1 or some other alloy which will lose its temper. HSS is preferred but a lot more expensive.
Dave.
@@Self_Evident What causes the blue discoloration, then? The properties of the steel cutting edges have certainly changed from overheating.
Not just woodworkers - I've seen lots of overheated cutting tools in machine shops, too. One guy correctly switched down to the low speed range on a Bridgeport mill, but failed to notice that reversed the spindle rotation. Black and blue 1-1/4" end mill and vast smoke clouds yes, material removal - not so much. The welders in particular always seemed to be completely oblivious of proper drill speeds, to them it's faster is better, even with ear splitting chatter. One of my pet peeves (and one reason why I had my own guarded private stash of cutting tools for when the shop's are all burnt and I don't have time to wait for new tools) is when operators don't know when stainless steels have work hardened and they just keep trying to push through, changing out and destroying cutter after cutter....
Thanks for the side bar on surface speed and its effect on drill speed. I wish you'd do a video just on this so I could share it with my jeweler friends who don't believe it and think they should always drill at the highest speed possible for _reasons_ which make opposite sense to reality. OR some of them think you should always drill at the slowest speed possible to avoid burning bits and on small bits which don't go very far in one revolution end up running _under_ the right speed by quite a bit. Hopefully you'll include the feeds part of speeds and feeds and talk about how fast to bring the spindle down.
“That lazy machinist” is/was a tech college teacher and has some good videos on feeds and speeds
That's probably because they use very small drills most of the time. The smaller the drill the higher the RPM required.
As a jeweler, i'll tell you right now. speed is important. Slow tiny bits are broken tiny bits.
The context matters I guess, bigger tools likely require totally different rules to follow than super tiny tools.
@@Frostfly Yep I second that, many people thing that metal is metal not always the case precious metals have their own characteristics.
The narrative on all these videos is so amazing! Thank you
Blondihacks, not quite sure how long I have been a loyal viewer of your channel but every video has been worth the wait! Love your humor. Don't overlook the importance of the lowly (really not so lowly) vice!
Agreed, I have a 3-1/2" Craftsman (USA made) and a 4-1/2" Wilton bullet (made in 73) that is like new and still wanting another vise. I am looking at the Doyle 4" sold at HF which is made with 60K ductile iron like the older Wiltons are made of and if caught on sale can be had for around $100 US. Also a decent set of aluminum jaw inserts is very handy to have with them for holding round stock or holding something without marring it.
@@MegaLostOne Clough42 had a nice tip on putting thrust bearing on Wilton vise. Easy mod and makes a difference. I think the video was something like top ten tools.
No single vice can do everything you need, but most of us don't have room on our benches for more than one, if we even have room for that. A neat trick that I've seen on a few benches was where a receiver hitch was mounted under the front or side of the bench (usually with a leg or support under it), then multiple vices, grinders, small anvils, etc would be mounted onto quarter inch thick plates and welded to hitch stubs. Let's you change out the location of your vice and tooling quick and easy, and you can usually get to it on three sides.
A nice addition is if you have the room, is to weld a heavy pipe into a tire rim and put another hitch mount on the top. See that setup for vices and grinders a lot.
@@richardmorton1310 Wilton changed their design over the years and some of them didn't use a thrust washer for pulling the movable jaw in, my vise is one of them and since it uses the yoke over the screw as the thrust washer I cannot put a thrust bearing in mine for that but thanks for the tip.
@@rallen7660 I actually should have typed my reply differently. I have the Craftsman and while it is a nice vise it's a cast iron and not a ductile iron so I plan to replace the Craftsman with the Doyle vise when I catch it on sale. The ductile iron vises are a lot stronger than the cast iron vises.
Years ago when I took a welding certification course, the more I learned about the safety issues of acetylene, the more desirable propane became.
That had me remember they had to shoot a bottle of acetylene that was burning some years ago.
It was in a small city close to me, so they had to evacuate people from a radius of about half a km from the bottle.
Beeing outside the sniper had a clear shot at it.
A acetylene bottle in a burning building is on another level of dangerous, as I'm sure you learned about.
Just respect it..
I use " turbo torch" with MAP gas. All the heat that I have ever needed.
@@johnnyjames7139 I bought one of those a few years ago and it works great but the MAP bottles cost $50 each. I recently priced an oxy-acc kit and it was $1,200 with bottles. That means after 22 bottle of MAP gas, you've bought an oxy-acc kit but you don't have an oxy-acc kit. The question is how long will it take to go through 22 bottles? I've been through 7 or 8 so far.
I used to work for a company that went out to clean up derailments. We cut up rail cars with propane & oxygen torches. Way cheaper than using acetylene. The only disadvantage was it took longer to start a cut. Once started it cut just as fast. Big torches! I kind of think that once the cut is stated much of the fuel comes from burning the iron with the oxygen. Can anyone confirm that?
Last year I purchased a Cuttermaster grinder with a radius attachment. It is great to sharpen end mills and even ball nose end mills. It can sharpen several other tool cutters as well. Love watching your videos !!
Woodworker here, on the note about the drill press also being a press. I was clamping some sheets of 1/2 inch plywood together to make a thicker sheet for a router table (overkill, whatever). It was about 18x24 inches. After applying glue. I was able to get clamps around the sides, but not in the middle. Aside from filling a buckets with water and grabbing every piece of iron in the house to use gravity (and only getting 60-100 pounds depending on how hard I scrounged around), I decided to use the drill press. I put the work on the table, loosened the chuck to the point that the jaws retracted inside, cranked the quill down on the work and strapped a single 15 weight to the quill handle.
This was when I was just starting out and didn't realize clamping cauls where a thing. But hey, it worked out.
Ideally, take the chuck out. Saves you damage on the chuck, and it spreads the pressure better.
"My husband's sewing room" - just awesome :)
Red gas bottle is really interested in what you're saying. Your channel is brilliant - quite addicted to it - learning so much!
Quinn, I would recommend instead of a dedicated bench grinder, to get one that has a bench grinder on one side and a 2 inch belt sander on the other. I use the belt sander way more than the grinder side of mine to clean up parts and to do some shaping as well.
Perhaps it's taken for granted...but an angle grinder is the first and most basic extra tool for any hobbyist. Great as usual Quinn
Get two or three so you don't have to swap the different types of disks
Get a cordless angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, and wire brush. It’s a little more primitive than a bandsaw (and messier), but still extremely flexible and fast.
"High speed stealing..." I love it.
Between you and James on Clough42 I find myself, watching and enjoying, more than the other channels that I subscribe to by a wide margin.
Some time back I made an Excell spreadsheet that had an entry for each material with a surface feet per minute column. From that I had a place for a diameter then the calculation gave me a rpm recommendation. Works for turning and for drilling. I can't seem to keep charts handy and always have a computer nearby.
I love (really, really enjoy) your videos. I especially like the variety of subjects and that you show mistakes (failures) along with successes. From my perspective, this is an outstanding method for teaching. Keep up the great work!
Can you share the spreadsheet?
I once had a lovely home office 15 * 12 foot loft conversion. Now I have 4 feet in a corner because it has become my wifes' sewing room. Where else could she store the 2 sewing machines, 2 sergers, 2 coverstitch machines, 2 dress dummies, a sewing table and a wardrobe full of her fabric stash. The thread storage takes up a cubic yard. When I do get my hobby machine shop I am going to put 6 different types of boimetric locks on it to stop her from stealing that space as well. So thank you Blondihacks - in the first minute you triggered me into the hell that has become my home office..... Oh by the way I work at home all the time programming ........
One day you'll get there John! I believe in you!
@@ChristopherHallett Yeah, I did that. Wound up moving into a smaller place. Sadness.
Could get into Man Sewing like marine rescue harnesses. Horse Blankets.
Thanks for the tour. With the 6*4 bandsaw you may find that the upper blade guide actually has two threaded holes that you can put the tightening knob in so you can get the guide a couple of inches closer to the work. I found out by mistake when I unscrewed the knob right out. Also on mine the plate (angle bracket) that supports the spring adjusting screw where it joins the adjusting rod was installed 180 degrees the wrong way. This meant that you used half the thread of the screw before there was any tension on the spring that controls feed rate. I reversed the plate and now can get the saw to point of balance which gives you the full range of feed rate available. This is handy for set up some times to so you don't need a third hand to hold the saw up.
Ohhh really! I will look at that right away
I primarily do woodworking, but I picked up a portable bandsaw frame recently and I will be getting a cordless bandsaw to go in it. The table is a genius idea
I started years ago with a 4x6 saw, a grinder with a wire wheel opposite the grinder, a few vises, some files, a hand drill and a drill press and a torch. Acquiring a mill and a lathe and all the fittings, and taking courses in how to run them *and weld dollowed by a welder) came years later. :)
A few other options for torches: if you just need to heat and solder/braze, an air-acetylene torch works very well. They are usually aimed at plumbers for soldering copper water pipe, but they work very well for all sort of metalwork that doesn't need welding temperatures.
Another good option is Oxy-MAPP (or whatever the MAPP alternative is these days). This doesn't get quite as hot as Oxy-Acetylene, so not great for welding, but it's much hotter than Propane or MAPP alone. It's especially great for large-scale heating since you aren't limited by the 1/10 rule. This lets you run a big rosebud off fairly small tanks.
Another great video! Your knowledge is phenomenal as is your willingness to share with us, the uninformed masses. Great stuff. I've been binge watching your videos and see no reason to quit now.
The naval fleet is a great analogy. The lathe is the battleship, the mill is the aircraft carrier, the tool and/or d-bit grinders are the munitions re-supply vessels. The bank account is the congressional naval budget committee.
Had no idea about the 1:10 rule but thanx for telling me Im using a very small set cause I don't need it often ...thank god for hardening I've got a big (well compared to others..ca. 50x50x50cm) electrical oven for heat treating specially build...
One important thing nobody told me was the grinding stuff ...it's bad for the other machines so I have two separate rooms now one for grinding and the dirty works and the main work shops for turning,milling and so on...😇😎
The other big bonus to the band saw is you get to keep the drops instead of turning them into chips. Im in the commercial millwork business and the band saw is a money maker in the shop. Instead of planing off stock to chips in the dumpster your re-sawing usable material off the blank.
what drops do you mean? I don't really get what you mean
@@julianbinder2371 the offcuts from bandsawing are all still usable materail rathet thanilling it away as chips
@@fpoastro ah thanks
I liked your drill bit speed rant, very much needed
A hacksaw builds character.
I totally agree about the Mig welder wire.
Having been a Nuclear certified welder for Tig and Stick, which I can now do both at home, I end up most times using my Hobart 140 Mig. I only use the flux core and never have had a problem with penetration or appearance of the weld .
'Hope something was useful in this video?' They're priceless!! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to share your knowledge in such a crystal-clear, extensive, and informed way. I'm the despised (?) woodworker with a large shop being more and more tickled by machining perspectives. I know you made these videos for me, and I do appreciate them more than you could even imagine. They're a real treat. Greetings from France.
The Best intro words you have ever used.....Well done Quinn.
Thanks for this. My stepdad (R.I.P.) had all these tools for all the same reasons, but you explain it better. Cheers!
Besides the big boy tools, the one that gets the most use in my shop is a rechargable angle grinder. Great for both cutting and grinding/sanding jobs. Mine is a Makita with brushless motor.
Maybe not for everyone but a good belt grinder is a tool I am not willing to live without. Can save tons of time on non critical features or for prepping stock for welding
Nice video. Support of support.
A Scotch Brite deburring wheel on a bench grinder is an incredible thing. I use a big mig welder but stay with two small tanks. That way it still fits under a bench, when you run out you swap and refill at your convenience plus easy to handle and fits in a car. A wall mount garage vacuum like a VacuMaid is incredible to have, with the addition of a shield it'll keep you from having to move your cutter grinder. Chips and debris are easily dealt with. Use a remote on the outlet so you can keep the vacuum out of the way.
I learned something about settling tanks today, thanks
about 2 yrs ago now, i had been saving up and finally bought my Jet HVBS 712 horizontal/vertical metal cutting bandsaw and it changed my life and my productivity probably quadrupled from cutting allllllll metal for any project with a low end chop saw. one of my fav pieces of equipment in my shop.
I got myself a porta bandsaw last week for my bday. What a life changer that is compared to the old hacksaw. It’s actually so fast, I almost feel I’m not getting much use out of it, because every time I need it, it gets the job done in mere seconds. Those cuts used to take 10+ minutes. It’s almost anti climactic, in a way…. In a good way.
Oxypropane works for everything except welding. I use it for cutting, heating, and brazing. The reason it doesn't work for welding is it's very hard to get a neutral flame otherwise it would work for welding too.
welds ok i started 40 odd yrs ago spent many hours welding cars back together
@@ivorjones6618 How do you get a neutral flame?
The chemistry of the oxygen acetylene flame has a two stage burning process that consumes the ambient oxygen in the atmosphere, correctly adjusted it will give a "neutral " flame, the only flame that can be used for fusion welding. Ray.
Good video. Adding to the need of bench grinders. You can buy all sorts of different wheels(buffing,wire, diffrent grits,drill bit sharpening attachments etc.) The low horsepower bench grinder I have,used to be just for tungsten sharpening for welding. Now I have buffer wheels on it for small parts that I don’t trust the big bench grinder with. Thanks for the video!
One of the best investments I ever made was floor standing drill press. Mine only goes down to 200 RPM, but it goes up to 3600 RPM. Drilling those tiny little holes with a hand held drill motor usually ends up with a broken bit. Another great investment was the combo belt/ disc sander. It's great for removing the burrs after using the bandsaw for those fabrication needs.
With a little thought and fabrication, you can add a third stepped pulley between the motor and spindle pulley, using two belts to slow down the spindle speed.
The setup was commercially available 80ish years ago and still may be.
JIM
@@jimc4731 Mine already has three pulley setup.
One support tool I would suggest adding before a d bit grinder would be an arbor press.
Very true. Arbour presses are great
For those considering a wire welder, one option for shielding gas is pure co2. It's a low pressure bottle, and cheaper to buy than c25 gas.
The drawback to straight CO2 is it cools the weld much faster and can cause problems with drawing.
Great video, Quinn 😊. I literally sold my baby (1966, Chevy Bel Air) to buy my oxy/acetylene tanks and torch set. When you need it you reeeally need it! 🤣. That goes for all of those tools. I initially bought a cold cut saw, but without buying a bunch of expensive blades for different materials it's just not nearly as versatile as my old bandsaw. It mostly just sits on the floor however, super great for cutting tubing for for fabrication as it's just soooo fast 😁. Being a person with a shop in perpetual evolution I can relate to all of this. Welding bench will be next for me... if I can dig it out of the snowbank to continue that particular build 😏.
Cheers!
Great shop run through and Thank You Thank you for talking about drill speed. It is amazing how many people don’t know or don’t agree with the larger the drill size bit the slower the speed must be ran. So many people burn the ends, dull or break their drills and always blame the drill as being cheap junk, saying they should have paid more. Just because drills especially older cord electric drills run at high speed does not mean you should use all of it.
"High speed stealing" is called "High Speed Trading" on wall street...
Love your channel!
This may not be relevant to this video, but perhaps it’s entertaining. In college I worked summers in the in-house machine shop at a large paper mill. More than once we drilled four inch holes with a very large drill press. Ran so slow you could easily count the revolutions. We also had huge lathes for resurfacing large paper machine rollers (12 ft diameter 40 feet long kinda big). You climbed a ladder and sat in a chair at the control station on the carriage head. You road the carriage while machining. Could set it up and start a pass, climb down and go get lunch and be back before a single pass was complete.
I just found your videos today and have been binging while enjoying my covid! I am a retired educator of 30 years, and I am really impressed with the care and clarity that you put into your work. Also, I love how you focus on how to get it done with hobby level equipment. brava :)
On the subject of surface grinders, yes 99% of them are big and pricey, thankfully, if your lucky you can find a smaller bench top one like I just have! They may look small, but boi are they heavy and SOLID! So if you can can find one of these, I’d highly recommend the investment as you get all of the benefits of a surface grinder, but not the drawbacks of big floor footprint or often massive price tag!
What kind is it? I’ve never seen a small bench top surface grinder. I’m very interested.
I wish this had been the first video I saw when I started as a hobby machinist. Even now, 3 years in, it's still very useful. Thanks!!👍👍👍
Great video Quinn. Personnally I'd start with stick welding rather than MIG, but can't argue too much...
Such a great video… just moved shops to my big shed and we’ll see if I can squeeze some more cool tools in there! Maybe i might get a bandsaw next… it would be nice to stop cutting 4 in. Stainless with a hacksaw..
I've had one of the 4X6 bandsaws for 25? years. The basic machine is OK, but as with so many Chinese ... cheap, many things will need some adjusting, modifying. Once that is done they work quite well. Lots of videos. I got lucky and was given an old Italian, much abused, industrial cold saw. What a difference! Much faster, beautifully smooth cuts. Heavy vice, blade turns away from the fence so parts fall free and never jamb into the fence slot. I'm using steel blades.
@@larryschweitzer4904 Well, thanks... Ill have to be on the lookout for nicer ones on facebook marketplace!
The hand shots are channeling This Old Tony 🤪
This is a great list, except now I have to buy another portable bandsaw to setup as a vertical. I have a 4x6, and you're exactly right about how miserable it is in the vertical orientation. One thing I'd add to the list, if people want to do precision work in steel, is getting a TIG setup. They only need one kind of gas for everything, and the learning curve for ferrous metals isn't that high. Yes, they're slow, but the prices have come down quite a bit for import inverters. Suggest one that does ac/dc with HF start and runs on 220v.
Thanks, very helpful! Clear, straightforward, and no BS. Love it!
Quinn, GREAT work - as always!!
Three questions:
1) where would you recommend your viewers look for those ‘surface speed charts for drills’?
B) what is that contraption on the stud to the right of your drill press, with what appears to be a DeStaCo clamp attached?
III) in your lovely discussion of how oxy/acetylene can give you “that finger of God heat” you mention the ‘bomb in the room’ issue of acetylene and not exceeding the capability of 1/10 of capacity of tank per hour… how would an old white-haired humble weekend warrior do that math? I’ve known since I was knee-high to a grasshopper that there was liquid acetone lurking in there - and why - but no one ever bothered to ‘splain how to know how close one might get to dancing with the devil…
Always like your vids, ALWAYS like your humor, huge THANK YOU for helping me get thru the pandemic!
Love your 24 Hour Le'Mons sticker. Those races are awesome
Another thing to think about when outfitting a shop is the size of tools you need to compliment each other. Your tool set seems to be very well suited to the work you do. I've seen others who have a Sherline lathe and a full sized Mill. They do not play well together. One has to think about moving parts from machine to machine and if the work envelope of one machine will not hold what the previous machine worked on then things are difficult.
Keep up the good work.
lg
no neat sig line
on the subject of the mig ... you can get a gas/gasless welder where you change the polarity when using gas etc ... a good all rounder as you can run flux core when space is a concern but gas when you want a high quality weld (as a hobbyist)
The single advantage to flux core is the ability to weld outdoors in the wind.
Another stellar video Quinn! I just ordered the Grizzly G0516 7" x 12" metal cutting bandsaw...you're helping me to quit "over think" things when I "need" a tool or machine and just buy the darn thing, it's not like I won't use it! Life's too short...and, every year that goes by, it's getting shorter. Always look forward to your enjoyable videos, love your dry humor too, thanks again!
Got a small tank of shielding gas for my little Hobart MIG welder. They don't have to be huge. (And, wow, what a difference it made - my only prior experience with welding had been with the flux-core wire that had come with the machine.)
Additionally, you can weld mild steel with CO2 shield gas instead of Argon, it's somewhat cheaper and a 5kg bottle of CO2 lasts way way longer than a 5 liter Argon bottle.
If it's total versatility at the least cost is what you are after an AC/DC buzz box will outshine all other processes hands down, Tere is even stick aluminum..The skill level is quite a bit higher, but practice makes perfect.
I discovered your channel recently and I love how down to Earth you are and how on point you make your videos. I binge watched many of them and I learned a lot. I make my living with my small metal workshop and you gave me lots of information that will make my life easier. Thank you!
Quinn. Moving heavy things. I have an Excel/Optimum 260kg mill on a 90 kg cabinet base. I got some high quality lockable professional ball bearing castors and the results are night and day different from the usual run of the things. Expensive, yes, but really worth it. You do need a smooth hard floor though.
Thank you as always for the continuing education. Give Sprocket some pats for us, ok?
I really enjoy your channel. You have got me to get back into using my metal working shop....Dusted off my lathe and gave it a bunch of necessary attention. Now to the OTHER tools. One of the most necessary "tools" or rather additions is CASTERS on everything. I even have my 20 ton press on casters. My lathe is on a heavy base and on casters. Yes it does have a flat bed. In a small shop having everything on casters allows for maximum flexability. Another very useful tools it a conversion chart on the wall. I consult mine all the time and having it where you can just quickly look at it saves a ton of time. Love you videos and keep up the great work!!!!
Today i learned something new.. I have used oxyacetylen welders Since i was 15 and totally missed that there is a limitaton of how much gas you can drain out before it becomes a safety issue.. I guess i have to go and read some more about it.. Btw you have an awesome RUclips channel👍
Honestly BH you do know your stuff. Enjoyable video.
my day job is boilers and chillers. with that out of the way i can say that i have most of the tools you call extra and i haven't picked up my milling machine yet. i have been doing every thing i can with the other tools and now i find i need milling machines.
As someone who works on a cars in the rust belt. The gas ax is a invaluable tool
Nice tool guide video Quinn.
A portable band saw with a stand is probably one of the most used tools in my garage. I have a full size mill, an atlas lathe and wish I had bought a portaband sooner.
Another lovely video. Cute tool and cutter grinder. My biggest tool by weight is probably the 1959 year K.O. Lee Aberdeen T&C grinder. Just watched my first Stefan Gotteswinter video: so soothing for this career T&C guy! Top notch content, Quinn Dunki.
Once purchased, the bench grinder could also be made into a belt and/or disk sander, along with buffing, tool cutting/sharpening, wirebrushing, deburring, etc. Really all a bench grinder really is, is a dual shaft induction motor with a bunch of attachments to put on. What those attachments look like is really not limited to anything once it arrives in the workshop. :)
As a dedicated hacksaw enthusiast I feel personally attacked :) Great video as always, Cheers
As an angle grinder enthousiast, I'm amazed at the level of patience and zen that hacksaw users must have.
And I have yet to see ANYONE on youtube properly use a hack saw. 40 to 60 strokes a minute and use the entire blade. Feet at sholder width with you toes on the plane of the cut. = First week apprentice stuff.
With the proper blade and technique you can give the angle grinder boys a run for their money on a 1/2" grade 3 bolt in a vise. ,,,, And cut square and to length too and handle the part you cut off too without dunking it in water first.
I'm a hacksaw fan too. I find I can get pretty decent speeds. One thing which helps is WD40 as a lubricant, liberally applied to the blade and cut. Makes the sawing much easier and faster. But I do like my bandsaw for straight cuts and mitres. They're much neater.
lol. "How big of mill can I squeeze in my husband’s sewing room before he notices" lol
Killing wasp and shooing solicitors for the torch set up killed me. I laughed to hard
Thank you for the tip about drill press speeds. So far I was more into woodworking and my drilling speed indeed was too high (however I had no clue about this). When I adjusted drill press for a lower speed and less pressure I started to get nice long spiral shavings and the "right" feeling while drilling. It so much better now! I am happy happy!
Tip, watch for electronically controlled drill presses. A discouraging number start at 600 rpm and go up from there.
As a former destroyer sailor, thanks for that intro. ❤️
You have accomplished a solid tool inventory for yourself.
As far as I know Drill Presses come in two varieties, Metal or wood. The wood drill presses usually cannot run slow enough for large drills with out overheating the drill and dulling it. I think most wood drill presses run at about 700 RPM thereabouts. Metal band saws will run at about 300 RPM or slower. Also, most Metal Drill Presses I have seen use three drive pulleys to obtain the slower speeds. So, if you see a Drill Press with only one drive belt and two drive pulleys it probably is for wood working or very small drills (3'16" or less) be sure you get the right tool for the job.
Quin, Could you do a video explaining what type of grinding wheel to use on what type of metal. And are the colors of wheels standardized?
You could build sheet metal shielding box around your grinder and keep chips off the lath.
snow.... or a bag of ice. cold is as good to have as a tool as heat, as in a torch.
and a band saw is a must!! it makes cutting angles sooo much easier. and you can make one cut and get several parts.... I love my cheap harbor freight bandsaw. also, if you are playing around making crucible steel, the chips that come off the bandsaw are perfect for making steel.
I do quite a bit of shed hackery, machining and fabrication, and one thing I couldn't be without is my 72 x 2 inch belt grinder. I hate my pillar drill, hardly ever use it, do everything on the mill if possible
As always a good job explaining home hobby 101.
There are helical attachments for D-bit grinders. Great for touching up flutes. They cam as you extend what could be considered a spindle. Some attachments just handle a set flute count.
For all my tools that I don't use very often I fabricate a steel stand on casters so I can wheel it into the middle of the room then back into the corner when finished. If its something like a flypress that needs to be a bit more rigid just bolt a lump of steel to the floor that you can then bolt your tables to.
All good stuff. I disagree on the torch. I sold mine and go with plasma for cutting. And propane for heating.
OMG, THANK YOU for the Elephant joke reference!
I tend to use that exact same analogy frequently at work, and the Venezuelan/American Chief Developer always looks at me like I’ve had a little stroke.
Totally agree about having both a cutoff bandsaw and a porta-band on a stand. Have both at the day job and use them constantly. Price for a small vertical metal cutting bandsaw was just prohibitive.
@ 12:28 - Atom reference! +100 points!
I really need to upgrade my old Harbor Freight bench top drill press. Mine's got a weird quirk that I have to put the belt on the higher speed pulley settings to get any appreciable torque at the quill. That sounds backwards, but the problem is the belt can't get any bite in the smaller pulley wheels at the motor end. As you can imagine this is less than ideal for drilling steel and a near-disaster for 1" and up hole saws.
I am nearly there. I don't have a torch, thanks for the idea of starting with propane.
Great informative video, my drill press is now 40+ years old, it has just started cutting oval holes "might be time for some new bearings"
Two seconds in and I get my laugh! I mean it, high point of my week.
Thank you for all your videos! You are an excellent mentor!
For non-powered tools, your future video, Vises, my oldest tool is a 150+ years old vise. Files? 4 drawers in two toolboxes of mine, are used to organize all my files. Belt sanders. -and regarding hot joining, Soft solder, Hard solder, Brazing? Abrasives?
Again, thanks! Thank you for the jokes too!
Your list in the description is epic