And so they ought to be, Mitutoyo calipers have to be the best money can buy. I’ve used cheap copies for years and having saved up enough for a real set, I am stunned at how good they are, truly worth every cent, thank you so much
@@firstmkb I always assumed if you are holding it up against the wall of a hole, it's to make sure you are at the very bottom of the hole if there is a small radius at the bottom of the hole, but that's just my assumption, I am a machinist but I never inquired into it.🍻
No exaggeration, this is the best "shop advice" video I have ever seen! You not only identify the great tools, but demonstrate what makes them so useful without wasting my time. Many thanks!
'"I know where it is so I am not constantly running around the shop looking for where I put the tool. Ok I don't always put it back on the rack so I do actually spend a lot of time looking around the shop". This is exactly what I do and this comment was priceless. Great videos.
i own a digital caliper for about 30 years and now in 2021 you tell me that step-trick,holy cow,you never get to old to learn something .Had to go to my workshop at 10pm to check that :)
I find a camera (phone one will do) is handy when disassembling things so that you can put things back together the right way by referring to your pictures if necessary. Also - a glass syringe. Glass syringes and a thick gauge needle (say 19 gauge or less - lower number = bigger needle) is really handy for flushing chips out of tapped holes where cutting oil tends to hold the chips in place. The rubber pistons in plastic syringes will swell up in solvent and make them unusable, plus glass ones clean out much easier. You can squirt solvent down blind tapped holes or any similar tight spot with quite a bit of pressure to flush gunk out.
Great video. For those paying attention, it's also a lesson of knowing where you can spend less on a good enough tool and where you shouldn't. You've got a Harbor Freight bandsaw and tool cabinets which are prefectly good for their purpose. You aren't the first one I've heard talk about the Noga indicator holders being far better than the imitators. The Knipex plier wrenches are seriously amazing. Well worth not busting your knuckles with a crescent wrench again. This is a case where you'll want the name brand ones. All the cheaper knock-offs of Knipex pliers I've seen are universally horrible.
Yes, I used all of the afore mentioned tools when I was working, but to add a few, A good 6" rule, a good scriber, a bevel edged solid square and layout dye. The shop could always use more tools and a few that I would customize or make, like vise parallels. jaw stops, copper chuck jaw pads. the list is endless, but I respect your top ten. We all take different approaches to the work.
Thanks James, a few of these are now on my shopping list. I'll add a few I found I used daily when I was a full-time tool maker - a surface plate, a 3" smooth jaw precision ground machinist's vice (Palmgren), a big wall chart of Decimal - Fraction and Drill and Thread sizes (mine includes the weird British stuff like BA and BSP, I think it was from Dormer or maybe Sheffield) a $10 solar powered scientific calculator, 0.5mm mechanical pencil and a 8-1/2 x 11" pad of paper (not post-its; no adhesive), a carbide pocket scribe with a magnet on the end (a great "pick up tools dropped in the ways" tool, and "is it magnetic or ferrous?" detector), a small pocket flat blade screwdriver like the ones often given away as promotional items, and a quality set of micro-cut jeweler's and riffling files. Edit - and a 2" machinist's square....
This video brought back many memories. I served a 4 year apprenticeship to become a Machinist with the AEC (Atomic Energy Commission) and one of the first projects that I did on my own was to build a 2 piece set of 1-2-3 Blocks. Roughed them, drilled and tapped them, squared them up, heat treated them to 60 Rockwell and finish them on a surface grinder. They were within .0002 of size and square all over. I carried those blocks around with me for 20 years and lost them when my machinist tool box was stolen, along with ten thousand dollars worth of Machinist tools. I missed those blocks more than anything else. Sentimental, you know?
I did the very same thing at my Boeing 4 year apprenticeship (started 1952) lost one, block but still have the other, havent used my machinist tools for 50 years.
Is _swearing_ a tool? 'Cuz I often use that as the second tool, after I misuse the first. It makes me feel better. It doesn't usually stop the bleeding, however.
Something that DOES stop the bleeding (for small nicks that don't warrant bandaging) is a styptic pencil. Yes, the exact one used for shaving nicks. Couple of bucks, toss it in your toolbox miscellaneous drawer, and stop bleeding on your drawings, books, and parts.
No, just like grimacing and sticking your tongue out the side of your mouth, swearing is a technique that takes a bit of time to master. Once you get it right, you may not even need a tool to get to the bleeding part.
As a german, I can confirm Knipex is good. They really are the pinnacle of pliermaking. They also offer small electronic sidecutters with magnetized jaws. They catch all the pieces of legs, and are really nice.
@@LambertZero Good stuff uses copper, but cheap resistors off eBay (good enough for my hobbyist projects), some pin headers and IC legs (ofc not all, but the ones I use) uses something magnetic. Maybe nickel? And electronics components are the most international things I can think of, so that would be universal to cheap components.
I have to say, one of my favourite tools I use everyday is my 6" pocket rule. I actually have 2 of them, one with and one without the end hook. Extremely handy
Yep, I have one I acquired with a used set of old tools at a garage sale that is about an inch wide - because besides one side having engraved (not printed) fractional inch and mm scales, the other side has tenths and hundredths of an inch scales. It also has a micro-printed decimal-fraction-mm conversion chart on one side and a letter and number drill table on the other. It was made by Craftsman, and sadly I've never seen another like it.
I just ordered the deburring kit for my 3d printed molds. I’ve been trying to clean up the recessed holes and this will solve that problem, thank you for taking the time to make this video.
1-2-3 blocks are great tools. I made mine in high school, a copy of the Moore tools version, and use then almost every day. Made from CRS and still accurate after 32 years.
An exceptionally well presented video. Not just the selection of tools, but ready examples showing how specific features are used and why it's important. Thank you!
Excellent video & list. Thank you! I appreciate the vise rollerbearing mod. I'll be doing that! Ordering some bifocal safety glasses, deburrer, and t-handle hex drives now! Interesting to note how much more expensive things have gotten in 2 years! The H-F band saw is now 350 and they now do 10% discounts at the holidays, not 20-25%
I have a Belsaw stand mounted belt sander with 1" sanding belts. I couldn't live without it. Bought it in the 1970's and have not done anything to it except regular maintenance and belt changes. I even grind lathe tool bits on it from time to time.
For # 11 I had a 1 1/2" X 3" cutoff of unhardened Vega tool steel about 7/8 " thick ground flat on the bottom drilled with the tap drill and nominal hole diameters to provide a guide for hand held drilling and tapping for 56 years. Still have it but in hind sight I should have made a hardened bench block with the same features.
If you have the extra money I would choose a JET bandsaw, I toiled with the $200 version for years and when I switched locations I popped the extra bucks and I'm glad I did, the extra wide blade, extra size along with extra rigidity is a blessing. I also opt for the calipers with carbide jaws, both inner and outer, these act as indestructible scribers. Good video, I see way too many people using a hand hacksaw when they could save a s-load of time buying a chaep cutoff saw.
Wow, that was one of the best tool videos I've ever seen. I'm a 40 year woodworker and in retirement am playing with metal much more, I have a good south bend 8" lathe, a Chinese mill. and I have the same band saw now. Looks like I have to order a couple more things now. thanks for doing this.
Thank you for your top10 tools. My most used tool is a 22 x 66" movable work table I made from a miscut 1-1/8" plate. Four 800lb capacity casters 2 moveable 2 fixed [lockable] , rolls reasonably easy. 5" vice attached and 4 holes @ 4-1/2" diameter near each corner. I thought they would not be used very often but they are very usefull, especially with my mag-drill. work table has a shelf about 12" above the floor where I keep usable scraps of material. Now I have to think of tool #2 thru 10. Thanks again for a very pleasant video.
I have the exact same 6 1/2" Wilton vise and used your tip by adding a roller thrust bearing and washers. Much improved, smoother to operate and takes less energy to get a good clamp. Thank you Sir...
used to carry 6" Knipex, 6" LED flashlight, and standard Allen wrench set on the job when doing Tool & Die or running Metal treatment / Ecoat paint systems, able to fix most issues without getting the big roll around drawer chest
If you also do any glueing, those unused HF band saw blades can be cut to short lengths, and fitted into a slit in the end of a dowel for a handle, they make a very good glue spreader.
Oh yes, you know the good stuff. 5:35 Those Knipex pliers are best adjustable wrench alternative. Also handy for doing small bending etc. As an industrial mechanic I quite often carry small ones with me as they can extend to fairly beefy bolt sizes and cover mm and inch stuff mixes like for instance pneumatic connectors etc. The best pliers to own in addition to more damaging Knipex pipe pliers.
Great vid! I watched it during a coffee break from the workshop. I did not know about the caliper step measuring trick. Just went back out there and sure enough mine do that too (I guess they all do). So that was a great tip, thanks!
Great channel. I need to get the Noga tooling but most important the bi-focal safety glasses. My most useful tool in the shop is paper and pencil. Sorry, not sexy but I used it for calculations, simulate part fitments etc. Yes, I need to move to CAD but my workflow is still significantly paper and pencil
Whoa!! Can confirm on those Starret Saw Blades. I had bought one after watching your video as a spare since my existing blade was still working. Well, the existing blade broke today (they were a bosch replacement of the original already), and I replaced them with the Starret. WOW! That blade cut thru 6061 1" square stock 3 times faster than my old blade! Definitely worth the extra money for them!!
I had too smile straight away... as I just bought the same bandsaw but it’s branded SABER here in Australia. I made a the top plate for vertical use, that you can still use horizontal. Definitely a worthy upgrade if your switching back and forth all day. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀😎🤓
my top ten tools [1] starrett 150 mm thin ruller [2] starrett scriber [3] Alpen brand drills [4] Rhome vice [5] tap set with tap size drills [6] deep hole marker [7] 1 2 3 blocks [8] knippex and japanese enigeer brand pliers [9] scotchbrite sanding discs [10] Bahco allen keys
I am a hobbyist and motorcycle restorer: I, too, use all ten of those items as well a quality 4" square. Great video and am a new subscriber! Rick from Canada😎
My number one tool in the shop is the Bausch &Lomb loupe that clips on to my eyeglasses and swing out of my line of sight.They feature 20mm glass lenses.They come in single and dual lenses.Mine comes with a 5X and 3X.Combined 8X.They are so light,I sometimes forget I am wearing them until I notice people giving me weird looks.That’s when I stare at them and say,”resistance is futile,you will be assimilated.”
Found a couple items to put on the wish list. Thanks! I picked up some cheap calipers several years ago on an impulse purchase having never used them before. They quickly became my #1 measuring tool to reach for.
One of my tips is to take a piece of 2x2x.250 aluminum angle, and cut to pieces to be the same length as your vise jaws. Then clamp both into the vise jaws so they are in the jaws one one side, and laying over the top of the jaws on the other side. I use a large dead-blow hammer to "persuade" the corners of the angle down over the jaws, then my letter punch set to mark them "Front" and "Rear" so I know which jaws they are registered to. They're invaluable for clamping anything you don't want marred, they're inexpensive, and the faces are easily freshened in the mill or just replace if they get too worn.
Many people do not know about the step feature on the calipers because that feature is not on all calipers. It was advertised on the Mitutoyo Diamond Verniers that I bought in 1970. I had the only set in the shop with that feature. This set of vernier calipers is STILL my “go to” set. Not as easy to read as the digital ones I have, nor as easy to read as the dial set either. However, this set has NEVER skipped a cog as have the dial set, and they have never had a dead battery either. After 50+ years I trust them. Oh, lest I forget, this set has a .050 vernier rather than the .025 that plagues many verniers.
6 inch Scale/ 1 inch mic / 6 inch caliper/ Allen wrenches/ files/ toolmakers vice / square/ oil stone /rubber mallet/ tenths indicator/..safety glasses / parallels set 12 total.....thanks .good video....
1-2-3 blocks are indispensable in woodworking as well. A pair of them, plus a set of aluminum/brass gauges (1/16 through 1") and feeler gauges, make for great setup devices with table saw and router cuts. Much easier than trying to get a ruler or tape measure to register properly and more accurate. I even have a pair of 2-3-4 blocks when I need something even larger to setup off of. Gets me everything from .001" to 8+" of cut setup capacity.
As someone mentioned below, Mitutoyo offers solar powered calipers. Yes they cost a bit more but even with Mitutoyo's normal very good battery life I'm more than happy I bought mine. Buying or even shop making a designed for the job foot to add to the right hand end of a set of calipers while using the depth function is well worth it. Besides my 123 blocks, I also bought a set of 246 blocks for all the same reasons the 123's are so handy. Between the two sets I have a fairly accurate method of checking between 1"- 18" and pretty much anything in between using a gauge block set in addition to them. Thanks for showing that Nogaflex James, that's one model I hadn't known about. I bought the large print edition of Machinery's Handbook and also the CD they offer. Plan for the future because at a certain point for all of us there going to be non optional. My most used shop tool? A large button and display calculator.
I actually use my safety reading glasses more than my regular reading glasses now, and I bought them in different strengths because they're cheap enough. I don't like bifocals or progressives as much as the full lens types. I get a huge clear area that I can see.
You left out your apron. Having big pockets to put tools in is the only thing that keeps me from having to look around the shop to figure out where I put something down.
Very well thought out. I hope I find this video when I finally are ready to invest. Not to say these are overly expensive but my small hut of building things is very chaotic and way too many cheap tools that are also needed and the good instruments would lay in the rubble of all of the other toys.
As a hobby machinist, diamond files & grinding bits. They make qwuik work of sharpening cutters from HSS to Tungsten-carbide. At work, it's usually more profitable to use inserts & replace them when the coating is worn.
The first and most important tool in the Tool and Die shop is a good coffee cup. Insulated with a lid so you don't get chips, grinder dust or EDM oil in the coffee.
@@mpetersen6 Indeed, however, I can't read scales or mikes without my readers! The only option to avoid forever changing my safetys out for readers was to have the reading prescription put into the lower portion. I can't tell you how pleased I was to find out that this was possible :~D
Awesome, you made me discover THE thing that I didn't know I would need but now I know it's imperative for everything I'll craft and build: the *_bifocal_* protective glasses! Thank you sir, subscibed
I would love to see more from you regarding electronics. That electronics troubleshooting video you made with one of the most helpful I’ve seen on RUclips. Would love to see about your electronics tools, equipment, and troubleshooting stuff.
A Treasure trove of Great Info. Thanks so much. I considered my Mitutoyo calipers a Huge step up from the inexpensive piece that I suffered with for sometime. The only caveat I have is that repeatability of a measurement becomes better with the higher priced item. I originally purchased at the low end and repeat measurements were a real nose-bleed with considerable variance depending on the point between the jaws where the measurement was made. As always with tools....you get what you pay for, right?😂
In all 10 items that you mentioned, the 2x3 blocks, big yeah 👍. When I finally move forward, the bandsaw will be the choice. Very inexpensive, the ability to part something. And that was my problematic situation, without a huge investment, thanks for your video!!
I have about half of the tools from your top 10 list and in the coming weeks I will be completing the top 10. One tool though that is really useful for me is a variable speed Dremel. I never knew how indispensable it would become for me until I bought one, now I can't get along without it.
James, that was a great video. I used your link to McMaster Carr to get to thrust bearings for my Wilton vise. My Wilton is a 1950's model that I purchased on an I-beam stand for $15.00 Different thrust bearing, but you clarified the need for a spacer, ( it's nice to have no surprises) after adding 5/64" of bearing. I made a spacer (or washer) out of 1/8" aluminum and it works like a dream. Man, it works great! Thanks big time!! I'd add a pic but I don't know how...
Concerning 1,2,3 blocks, many of mine have enlarged holes done to get the job done. I just carbide the hole at the time I need what I need, they still work as intended also.
GREAT Vid!! give us a part two, maybe with a beginner hand book choice.. Having a dremel with the boys that suit you is also quite handy i think.. pen size torch quite handy, pen size hobby blade quite handy. that’s me!
Regarding the Hard Freight bandsaw. I purchased mine three years ago this saw has seen flat bar, lots of round or rectangle tubing, angel iron and I'm talking a lot of cuts on the same Harbor Freight saw blade with out touching the spare.
Ik you’ve probably been doing this a long time but just a few tips as a machinist myself, when you deburr, it’s better to angle it 30 degrees from one flat surface than go back and deburr 30 degrees from the opposite surface since there’s two edges.
Aaaanndd the number one most-used tool in my shop is.... my wallet... hahaha... but seriously, great video, and I think I learned at least eight things I can put to use. Which will probably end up exercising my number one tool.. doh!
My hands will appreciate a good deburring tool, and the thrust washer on vice is good but only in clean workshops otherwise on some vices you can add deep grove ball bearing to each end of the lead screw
Great list, I totally concur! Not sure about a thrust bearing on the Wilton. If you ever have to crank it hard, something has to give in those tiny needle bearings. They will either be crushed or embed themselves in the washer. Me, I would make sure my factory thrust washer is thick, precision, and well hardened and replace if necessary. The extra force needed will be negligible.
So many possibilities with this setup. First thing I thought of when watching you disengage the half nuts at the end of the cut was "why not just stop the servo?" Then I thought "why not reverse the servo to get ready for the next cut?" Then I realized that you would have an indexing problem if you ever lost track of the pulses and direction. solvable I think...but pretty cool project. Very robust set of skills you employ....
Thanks! What you suggest is possible, but it requires additional hardware, like a linear scale on the carriage, and you have to start accounting for acceleration and backlash. It starts to become a CNC conversion at some point. I am deliberately keeping it simple. It's still a manual lathe and works like a manual lathe, except you don't have to deal with change gears.
Great list 👍🏻 my favorite tool I can’t live without is sleep! As a graveyard worker, if I haven’t slept well before going to the garage-DANGER! That’s where I’m gonna make mistakes and probably ruin parts 😖
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
We're happy to see your Mitutoyo caliper made your top ten list. Great tips on usage as well!
And so they ought to be, Mitutoyo calipers have to be the best money can buy. I’ve used cheap copies for years and having saved up enough for a real set, I am stunned at how good they are, truly worth every cent, thank you so much
They're all I ever buy! In fact I just dropped mine recently and need to order some new ones! It happens.....
Can you tell me why the depth rod has a notch out of it?
Great products, thanks!
@@firstmkb I always assumed if you are holding it up against the wall of a hole, it's to make sure you are at the very bottom of the hole if there is a small radius at the bottom of the hole, but that's just my assumption, I am a machinist but I never inquired into it.🍻
@@skylark4901 great answer. Totally obvious to me after you explained it!
No exaggeration, this is the best "shop advice" video I have ever seen! You not only identify the great tools, but demonstrate what makes them so useful without wasting my time. Many thanks!
You said what I was thinking but better. Cheers.
'"I know where it is so I am not constantly running around the shop looking for where I put the tool. Ok I don't always put it back on the rack so I do actually spend a lot of time looking around the shop". This is exactly what I do and this comment was priceless. Great videos.
i own a digital caliper for about 30 years and now in 2021 you tell me that step-trick,holy cow,you never get to old to learn something .Had to go to my workshop at 10pm to check that :)
I thought I was alone in learning this!
Old dog with a new trick, had to go try it out!
Now subscribed to learn more wee tricks and hints
There's actually a surprising number of folks that don't know that. And almost, but not quite, as useful as the depth pin...
If it makes you feel better, I have only known that trick for about 12 months and I am 55 now.
@@harveysmith100 so you learned it at 54,so did i :)
@@chevyfahrer What did we do before You Tube?
I find a camera (phone one will do) is handy when disassembling things so that you can put things back together the right way by referring to your pictures if necessary.
Also - a glass syringe. Glass syringes and a thick gauge needle (say 19 gauge or less - lower number = bigger needle) is really handy for flushing chips out of tapped holes where cutting oil tends to hold the chips in place. The rubber pistons in plastic syringes will swell up in solvent and make them unusable, plus glass ones clean out much easier. You can squirt solvent down blind tapped holes or any similar tight spot with quite a bit of pressure to flush gunk out.
Wow! This presenter is SO CLEAR and helpful. Both camera and communication skills are superb! Thank you!
Your slight amount of sarcasm and humbleness keep me coming back.
Good job man 👊
Great video. For those paying attention, it's also a lesson of knowing where you can spend less on a good enough tool and where you shouldn't. You've got a Harbor Freight bandsaw and tool cabinets which are prefectly good for their purpose. You aren't the first one I've heard talk about the Noga indicator holders being far better than the imitators. The Knipex plier wrenches are seriously amazing. Well worth not busting your knuckles with a crescent wrench again. This is a case where you'll want the name brand ones. All the cheaper knock-offs of Knipex pliers I've seen are universally horrible.
Yes, I used all of the afore mentioned tools when I was working, but to add a few, A good 6" rule, a good scriber, a bevel edged solid square and layout dye. The shop could always use more tools and a few that I would customize or make, like vise parallels. jaw stops, copper chuck jaw pads. the list is endless, but I respect your top ten. We all take different approaches to the work.
Thanks James, a few of these are now on my shopping list. I'll add a few I found I used daily when I was a full-time tool maker - a surface plate, a 3" smooth jaw precision ground machinist's vice (Palmgren), a big wall chart of Decimal - Fraction and Drill and Thread sizes (mine includes the weird British stuff like BA and BSP, I think it was from Dormer or maybe Sheffield) a $10 solar powered scientific calculator, 0.5mm mechanical pencil and a 8-1/2 x 11" pad of paper (not post-its; no adhesive), a carbide pocket scribe with a magnet on the end (a great "pick up tools dropped in the ways" tool, and "is it magnetic or ferrous?" detector), a small pocket flat blade screwdriver like the ones often given away as promotional items, and a quality set of micro-cut jeweler's and riffling files. Edit - and a 2" machinist's square....
This video brought back many memories. I served a 4 year apprenticeship to become a Machinist with the AEC (Atomic Energy Commission) and one of the first projects that I did on my own was to build a 2 piece set of 1-2-3 Blocks. Roughed them, drilled and tapped them, squared them up, heat treated them to 60 Rockwell and finish them on a surface grinder. They were within .0002 of size and square all over. I carried those blocks around with me for 20 years and lost them when my machinist tool box was stolen, along with ten thousand dollars worth of Machinist tools. I missed those blocks more than anything else. Sentimental, you know?
Hey Joe, I'm just starting out, I have a bench top mill. Can you recommend what brand of 123 blocks i should buy?
I did the very same thing at my Boeing 4 year apprenticeship (started 1952) lost one, block but still have the other, havent used my machinist tools for 50 years.
safety glass bifocals have changed my life in the shop. they are very convenient and work well for me.
Really like your selection. "Money spent on quality tools is NEVER wasted."
Is _swearing_ a tool? 'Cuz I often use that as the second tool, after I misuse the first. It makes me feel better. It doesn't usually stop the bleeding, however.
Something that DOES stop the bleeding (for small nicks that don't warrant bandaging) is a styptic pencil. Yes, the exact one used for shaving nicks. Couple of bucks, toss it in your toolbox miscellaneous drawer, and stop bleeding on your drawings, books, and parts.
Duct Tape.
As the medics in my tank battalion used to say, "rub some dirt in it; everything stops bleeding eventually"
and why is it that non-swearing words DON'T make us feel better? Swearing is weird, but I'm stuck with my potty mouth. ^_^
No, just like grimacing and sticking your tongue out the side of your mouth, swearing is a technique that takes a bit of time to master. Once you get it right, you may not even need a tool to get to the bleeding part.
As a german, I can confirm Knipex is good. They really are the pinnacle of pliermaking. They also offer small electronic sidecutters with magnetized jaws. They catch all the pieces of legs, and are really nice.
Do they make leads on electronics components out of steel in Germany? Here they are made of copper.
@@LambertZero Good stuff uses copper, but cheap resistors off eBay (good enough for my hobbyist projects), some pin headers and IC legs (ofc not all, but the ones I use) uses something magnetic. Maybe nickel?
And electronics components are the most international things I can think of, so that would be universal to cheap components.
@@vincentguttmann2231 Yeah, nickel, that's cheap. :-)
I love those pliers. If they ever run an 80% off sale, I'm getting some.
@@Bob_Adkins You could be waiting a while! Next lifetime maybe.
I have to say, one of my favourite tools I use everyday is my 6" pocket rule. I actually have 2 of them, one with and one without the end hook. Extremely handy
Yep, I have one I acquired with a used set of old tools at a garage sale that is about an inch wide - because besides one side having engraved (not printed) fractional inch and mm scales, the other side has tenths and hundredths of an inch scales. It also has a micro-printed decimal-fraction-mm conversion chart on one side and a letter and number drill table on the other. It was made by Craftsman, and sadly I've never seen another like it.
I just ordered the deburring kit for my 3d printed molds. I’ve been trying to clean up the recessed holes and this will solve that problem, thank you for taking the time to make this video.
1-2-3 blocks are great tools. I made mine in high school, a copy of the Moore tools version, and use then almost every day. Made from CRS and still accurate after 32 years.
You forgot to mention your broom/shopvac. Your shop always looks so clean!
It's becoming clear I need to do a sequel. Lots of great comments about tools I missed.
An exceptionally well presented video. Not just the selection of tools, but ready examples showing how specific features are used and why it's important. Thank you!
The trick with using the 123 block as a surface gauge is super cool, definitely going to use that one!
It's weird how I can use things everyday that people don't know but people show me new things everyday. 😀. I hope this made sense.ta.
Excellent video & list. Thank you!
I appreciate the vise rollerbearing mod. I'll be doing that!
Ordering some bifocal safety glasses, deburrer, and t-handle hex drives now!
Interesting to note how much more expensive things have gotten in 2 years! The H-F band saw is now 350 and they now do 10% discounts at the holidays, not 20-25%
You use them all everyday , amazing how new they all look
I have a Belsaw stand mounted belt sander with 1" sanding belts. I couldn't live without it. Bought it in the 1970's and have not done anything to it except regular maintenance and belt changes. I even grind lathe tool bits on it from time to time.
For # 11 I had a 1 1/2" X 3" cutoff of unhardened Vega tool steel about 7/8 " thick ground flat on the bottom drilled with the tap drill and nominal hole diameters to provide a guide for hand held drilling and tapping for 56 years. Still have it but in hind sight I should have made a hardened bench block with the same features.
If you have the extra money I would choose a JET bandsaw, I toiled with the $200 version for years and when I switched locations I popped the extra bucks and I'm glad
I did, the extra wide blade, extra size along with extra rigidity is a blessing. I also opt for the calipers with carbide jaws, both inner and outer, these act as indestructible
scribers. Good video, I see way too many people using a hand hacksaw when they could save a s-load of time buying a chaep cutoff saw.
Great vid. For everyone's knowledge, Mitutoyo is pronounced "meets toyo" I am learning from a life-long machinist at my job.
Wow, that was one of the best tool videos I've ever seen. I'm a 40 year woodworker and in retirement am playing with metal much more, I have a good south bend 8" lathe, a Chinese mill. and I have the same band saw now. Looks like I have to order a couple more things now. thanks for doing this.
those Knipex pliers are invaluable, By far one of my happiest buys. I hope more channels do videos like these!
Of all the videos on YT for 'helpful' hints, this one tops them all for shop recommendations. Vid well done!
Your videos have helped me so very much, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thank you for your top10 tools. My most used tool is a 22 x 66" movable work table I made from a miscut 1-1/8" plate.
Four 800lb capacity casters 2 moveable 2 fixed [lockable] , rolls reasonably easy. 5" vice attached and 4 holes @ 4-1/2" diameter near each corner. I thought they would not be used very often but they are very usefull, especially with my mag-drill. work table has a shelf about 12" above the floor where I keep usable scraps of material. Now I have to think of tool #2 thru 10.
Thanks again for a very pleasant video.
I see an inspiring, beautiful and disciplined working order and I am fascinated
I have the exact same 6 1/2" Wilton vise and used your tip by adding a roller thrust bearing and washers. Much improved, smoother to operate and takes less energy to get a good clamp. Thank you Sir...
The same principle of replacing screw friction with clamping force by using a thrust bearing also applies to collet chucks with a bearing nose.
used to carry 6" Knipex, 6" LED flashlight, and standard Allen wrench set on the job when doing Tool & Die or running Metal treatment / Ecoat paint systems, able to fix most issues without getting the big roll around drawer chest
Noga base totally upped my game...expensive but worth it hands down.
If you also do any glueing, those unused HF band saw blades can be cut to short lengths, and fitted into a slit in the end of a dowel for a handle, they make a very good glue spreader.
Oh yes, you know the good stuff. 5:35 Those Knipex pliers are best adjustable wrench alternative. Also handy for doing small bending etc. As an industrial mechanic I quite often carry small ones with me as they can extend to fairly beefy bolt sizes and cover mm and inch stuff mixes like for instance pneumatic connectors etc. The best pliers to own in addition to more damaging Knipex pipe pliers.
I never knew about the step measuring trick. I'm gonna use that from now on. Thank you.
Great vid! I watched it during a coffee break from the workshop. I did not know about the caliper step measuring trick. Just went back out there and sure enough mine do that too (I guess they all do). So that was a great tip, thanks!
Band saw, totally agree, very simple very useful
Need to get some of those grips
Calpiers, use it on everything
Great channel. I need to get the Noga tooling but most important the bi-focal safety glasses. My most useful tool in the shop is paper and pencil. Sorry, not sexy but I used it for calculations, simulate part fitments etc. Yes, I need to move to CAD but my workflow is still significantly paper and pencil
Thanks for taking the time.
Whoa!! Can confirm on those Starret Saw Blades. I had bought one after watching your video as a spare since my existing blade was still working. Well, the existing blade broke today (they were a bosch replacement of the original already), and I replaced them with the Starret. WOW! That blade cut thru 6061 1" square stock 3 times faster than my old blade! Definitely worth the extra money for them!!
I had too smile straight away... as I just bought the same bandsaw but it’s branded SABER here in Australia.
I made a the top plate for vertical use, that you can still use horizontal.
Definitely a worthy upgrade if your switching back and forth all day.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀😎🤓
It's on my list of things to make.
my top ten tools
[1] starrett 150 mm thin ruller
[2] starrett scriber
[3] Alpen brand drills
[4] Rhome vice
[5] tap set with tap size drills
[6] deep hole marker
[7] 1 2 3 blocks
[8] knippex and japanese enigeer brand pliers
[9] scotchbrite sanding discs
[10] Bahco allen keys
I am a hobbyist and motorcycle restorer: I, too, use all ten of those items as well a quality 4" square. Great video and am a new subscriber!
Rick from Canada😎
My number one tool in the shop is the Bausch &Lomb loupe that clips on to my eyeglasses and swing out of my line of sight.They feature 20mm glass lenses.They come in single and dual lenses.Mine comes with a 5X and 3X.Combined 8X.They are so light,I sometimes forget I am wearing them until I notice people giving me weird looks.That’s when I stare at them and say,”resistance is futile,you will be assimilated.”
James,
In every video you make, your shop is always clean, neat, and VERY well organised 👌
Regards
Robert
Keep in mind I choose where I position and point the cameras.
Found a couple items to put on the wish list. Thanks!
I picked up some cheap calipers several years ago on an impulse purchase having never used them before. They quickly became my #1 measuring tool to reach for.
Thanks! Love this kind of content--I was actually just starting a search for a good vice... 😂
One of my tips is to take a piece of 2x2x.250 aluminum angle, and cut to pieces to be the same length as your vise jaws.
Then clamp both into the vise jaws so they are in the jaws one one side, and laying over the top of the jaws on the other side.
I use a large dead-blow hammer to "persuade" the corners of the angle down over the jaws, then my letter punch set to mark them "Front" and "Rear" so I know which jaws they are registered to.
They're invaluable for clamping anything you don't want marred, they're inexpensive, and the faces are easily freshened in the mill or just replace if they get too worn.
One tool that I use in every project is an optical center punch.
Many people do not know about the step feature on the calipers because that feature is not on all calipers. It was advertised on the Mitutoyo Diamond Verniers that I bought in 1970. I had the only set in the shop with that feature. This set of vernier calipers is STILL my “go to” set. Not as easy to read as the digital ones I have, nor as easy to read as the dial set either. However, this set has NEVER skipped a cog as have the dial set, and they have never had a dead battery either. After 50+ years I trust them. Oh, lest I forget, this set has a .050 vernier rather than the .025 that plagues many verniers.
6 inch Scale/ 1 inch mic / 6 inch caliper/ Allen wrenches/ files/ toolmakers vice / square/ oil stone /rubber mallet/ tenths indicator/..safety glasses / parallels set 12 total.....thanks .good video....
Congratulations this video got me to subscribe. You are now on the list of favorite youtube machinists with HAAS, Titans of CNC and NYC CNC
The digital caliper trick on 22:00 is new to me and will be very usefull, thank you,, great video!
Thanks for your shop tour. Lots of cool tools.
You are a trip. Paraphrase: “If I don’t have to be precise - if I’m only working within a few thousandths of an inch, I can just use the calipers.”
The Knipex pliers set and the Allen wrenches have bee on my Amazon wishlist for sometime. Guess I’m going to have breakdown purchase them for myself.
1-2-3 blocks are indispensable in woodworking as well. A pair of them, plus a set of aluminum/brass gauges (1/16 through 1") and feeler gauges, make for great setup devices with table saw and router cuts. Much easier than trying to get a ruler or tape measure to register properly and more accurate. I even have a pair of 2-3-4 blocks when I need something even larger to setup off of. Gets me everything from .001" to 8+" of cut setup capacity.
As someone mentioned below, Mitutoyo offers solar powered calipers. Yes they cost a bit more but even with Mitutoyo's normal very good battery life I'm more than happy I bought mine. Buying or even shop making a designed for the job foot to add to the right hand end of a set of calipers while using the depth function is well worth it. Besides my 123 blocks, I also bought a set of 246 blocks for all the same reasons the 123's are so handy. Between the two sets I have a fairly accurate method of checking between 1"- 18" and pretty much anything in between using a gauge block set in addition to them. Thanks for showing that Nogaflex James, that's one model I hadn't known about. I bought the large print edition of Machinery's Handbook and also the CD they offer. Plan for the future because at a certain point for all of us there going to be non optional. My most used shop tool? A large button and display calculator.
Nice. I also have a comically large calculator and 2-4-6 blocks. Both are great.
There is quite a few things I didn’t know about. Thanks
As others have said, the vernier depth technique is a great tip. I didn’t know that one.
Thanks for the knipex hint, didn't know about those they look good. I'm ordering them now.
I actually use my safety reading glasses more than my regular reading glasses now, and I bought them in different strengths because they're cheap enough. I don't like bifocals or progressives as much as the full lens types. I get a huge clear area that I can see.
You left out your apron. Having big pockets to put tools in is the only thing that keeps me from having to look around the shop to figure out where I put something down.
Very well thought out. I hope I find this video when I finally are ready to invest. Not to say these are overly expensive but my small hut of building things is very chaotic and way too many cheap tools that are also needed and the good instruments would lay in the rubble of all of the other toys.
As a hobby machinist, diamond files & grinding bits. They make qwuik work of sharpening cutters from HSS to Tungsten-carbide.
At work, it's usually more profitable to use inserts & replace them when the coating is worn.
I know some people regrind carbide inserts, too. Personally, I usually break them before they wear.
The first and most important tool in the Tool and Die shop is a good coffee cup. Insulated with a lid so you don't get chips, grinder dust or EDM oil in the coffee.
My safetly glasses are also bifocal, however, they have my mid-range and reading prescriptions. Not cheap but worth every penny!
I've had mid range safety glasses and they really work well when running a machine.
@@mpetersen6 Indeed, however, I can't read scales or mikes without my readers! The only option to avoid forever changing my safetys out for readers was to have the reading prescription put into the lower portion. I can't tell you how pleased I was to find out that this was possible :~D
@@TheOwlman I couldn't run machines with my regular perscrip or the bifocals or do other work in the shop.
Awesome, you made me discover THE thing that I didn't know I would need but now I know it's imperative for everything I'll craft and build: the *_bifocal_* protective glasses! Thank you sir, subscibed
I would love to see more from you regarding electronics. That electronics troubleshooting video you made with one of the most helpful I’ve seen on RUclips. Would love to see about your electronics tools, equipment, and troubleshooting stuff.
Cool. I've got something coming up real soon.
A Treasure trove of Great Info. Thanks so much. I considered my Mitutoyo calipers a Huge step up from the inexpensive piece that I suffered with for sometime. The only caveat I have is that repeatability of a measurement becomes better with the higher priced item. I originally purchased at the low end and repeat measurements were a real nose-bleed with considerable variance depending on the point between the jaws where the measurement was made. As always with tools....you get what you pay for, right?😂
In all 10 items that you mentioned, the 2x3 blocks, big yeah 👍. When I finally move forward, the bandsaw will be the choice. Very inexpensive, the ability to part something. And that was my problematic situation, without a huge investment, thanks for your video!!
I have about half of the tools from your top 10 list and in the coming weeks I will be completing the top 10.
One tool though that is really useful for me is a variable speed Dremel.
I never knew how indispensable it would become for me until I bought one, now I can't get along without it.
James, that was a great video. I used your link to McMaster Carr to get to thrust bearings for my Wilton vise. My Wilton is a 1950's model that I purchased on an I-beam stand for $15.00 Different thrust bearing, but you clarified the need for a spacer, ( it's nice to have no surprises) after adding 5/64" of bearing. I made a spacer (or washer) out of 1/8" aluminum and it works like a dream. Man, it works great! Thanks big time!! I'd add a pic but I don't know how...
Concerning 1,2,3 blocks, many of mine have enlarged holes done to get the job done. I just carbide the hole at the time I need what I need, they still work as intended also.
The tool grinder I use a lot. But know and the advantages of repeating constants with cutting edges.
Do you have a video on how to clean your shop? I see that you've mastered the art.
Great tools for every day in shop. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome top ten, I really enjoyed learning about the bifocal safety glasses.
GREAT Vid!!
give us a part two, maybe with a beginner hand book choice..
Having a dremel with the boys that suit you is also quite handy i think..
pen size torch quite handy,
pen size hobby blade quite handy.
that’s me!
I like to make a set of mild steel flat jaws for my vises. They are soft enough to hold things firmly and don't leave apprentice marks on parts.
Good idea. We usually think of copper or aluminum, but depending on what you're gripping, mild steel could be a good option.
Regarding the Hard Freight bandsaw. I purchased mine three years ago this saw has seen flat bar, lots of round or rectangle tubing, angel iron and I'm talking a lot of cuts on the same Harbor Freight saw blade with out touching the spare.
Ik you’ve probably been doing this a long time but just a few tips as a machinist myself, when you deburr, it’s better to angle it 30 degrees from one flat surface than go back and deburr 30 degrees from the opposite surface since there’s two edges.
Thank you. Step measurment with caliber was new :)
Had to give a like for the caliper trick alone, never knew that. Thanks 👍🏻
This was really helpful, will be making some purchases to make my life easier! Thank you!!
Great info very useful. Thank you you are very thorough and thoughtful.
No.0 ... Apron !
Good, crispy presentation!
Was expecting a machinist ruler to be #1 - sure is for me.
Aaaanndd the number one most-used tool in my shop is.... my wallet... hahaha... but seriously, great video, and I think I learned at least eight things I can put to use. Which will probably end up exercising my number one tool.. doh!
*ding* this
Didn’t make it through the video before ordering a Kipinx plier.
My hands will appreciate a good deburring tool, and the thrust washer on vice is good but only in clean workshops otherwise on some vices you can add deep grove ball bearing to each end of the lead screw
Great list, I totally concur! Not sure about a thrust bearing on the Wilton. If you ever have to crank it hard, something has to give in those tiny needle bearings. They will either be crushed or embed themselves in the washer. Me, I would make sure my factory thrust washer is thick, precision, and well hardened and replace if necessary. The extra force needed will be negligible.
The force difference is significant, which is why I did it. The bearing assembly is rated for 12,000lbs static thrust, so it should be fine.
So many possibilities with this setup. First thing I thought of when watching you disengage the half nuts at the end of the cut was "why not just stop the servo?" Then I thought "why not reverse the servo to get ready for the next cut?" Then I realized that you would have an indexing problem if you ever lost track of the pulses and direction. solvable I think...but pretty cool project. Very robust set of skills you employ....
Thanks! What you suggest is possible, but it requires additional hardware, like a linear scale on the carriage, and you have to start accounting for acceleration and backlash. It starts to become a CNC conversion at some point. I am deliberately keeping it simple. It's still a manual lathe and works like a manual lathe, except you don't have to deal with change gears.
I don't necessarily like the rotary hand deburring tools, but there are ones that attach to drills called a zero flute countersink, which I love
Yeah, those are good, too. It does mean you have to keep a drill motor handy.
Great list 👍🏻 my favorite tool I can’t live without is sleep! As a graveyard worker, if I haven’t slept well before going to the garage-DANGER! That’s where I’m gonna make mistakes and probably ruin parts 😖
Nice, interesting, informative, well done video.
Love Noga products.