Tony, just wanted to drop by and say thanks. I'd consider myself a fairly experienced hobby machinist, but after watching this video on carbide tips, I went into the shop and raised my spindle speeds and cut depths considerably. Holy heck. I can't believe the results. Now running 3 x faster and taking cuts 4 x deeper. Instead of swarf, I'm now covered in 1" long chips. I'm now taking 40 thou at 1250 rpm. You Sir are a legend.
Your depth of cut should normally be a minimum the same as your nose radius, and a true bare minimum of 2/3 your nose radius. So if you were using a "08" nose (1/32") then 40 thousandths is good, and a typical minimum of .032" depth. Hopefully if you were only taking .010" cuts before you were using an 04 (1/64) nose, since the absolutely minimum of that is a 10 thou cut. Those are just the general rules for proper chipping and surface finish, but also require a proper feed rate and RPM top go with them. The maximum depth depends on the insert type, how much HP the machine has, and how rigid the machine is. A CNMG type has the largest depth of cut (.667 * length of insert edge), next is a TNMG and DNMG (.5 * edge length). WNMG is usually the smallest maximum depth of cut insert type (.25 * length to the middle point of the edge), but the tradeoff is it can be used for both turning and facing and has 6 cutting sides per insert.
@@LordSaliss i wish I knew what those words meant. I have a little mini lathe. Im here to figure out what the different tooling is used and how its used. Think im already ar a disadvantage. My motor burned up so I put on a ½ hp motor from a whole house fan. Only have high and low. With no idea as to the rpm.
@@kathleenrobertpogue6818 Highly recommend picking up an old treadmill or stairstepper for cheap. Durable strong motors in those things, and can be had for sometimes less than $50, especially if you find a damaged one with a good motor
I came here with two big questions. #1 How to distinguish carbide inserts via taste-test, and #2 where DOES he get his nails done. You answered NEITHER. 10/10 will watch again.
Cook your carbide in the sous vide at 66C for an hour then finish with a quick sear in a hot pan. Really brings out the flavor and reduces the brittleness caused by sauteing.
I'm in training for a machinist, got hired on an operator at a company and they are slowly training me. I've learned more knowledge from your videos then I have on the job. I can't say how thankful I am that you put so much time and effort into these videos.
Eh, I'm gonna try to get the local men's shed to buy one, then I can use it. That or work at the local machinists, but I dunno if they do much manual work
I keep coming back through these videos year after year. The knowledge is great, the humor is right up my alley, editing is tight, and the music is always a nice fit. They're just a joy to watch. I've gotten an interest in CNC and robotics thanks to channels like this. Thank you Tony!
I watched this video a year ago, and now I had to come back after finally buying my first lathe. This has been a great refresher for what I think I need to start with for tooling.
I've got to agree with you there. Both have the capacity to make me spit out the coffee. Thankfully I'm mostly viewing them on a tablet, more coffee proof!
@@FatLava AvE = Arduino vs Evil (Evil because of the Evil smoke monster of burning/smoldering chips and integrated circuits) He is Uncle Bumblefuck. You can't miss his channel, it's literally AvE (unfortunately I don't know how to easily insert the link from my phone). Both ToT and AvE are my favorite channels and always watch their vidjeos. Hopefully you will enjoy and learn some things as I did. Keep your stick in a vice...
1 Carbon Steels Carbon steels have been used since the 1880s for cutting tools. However carbon steels start to soften at a temperature of about 180oC. This limitation means that such tools are rarely used for metal cutting operations. Plain carbon steel tools, containing about 0.9% carbon and about 1% manganese, hardened to about 62 Rc, are widely used for woodworking and they can be used in a router to machine aluminium sheet up to about 3mm thick. 2 High Speed Steel (HSS) HSS tools are so named because they were developed to cut at higher speeds. Developed around 1900 HSS are the most highly alloyed tool steels. The tungsten (T series) were developed first and typically contain 12 - 18% tungsten, plus about 4% chromium and 1 - 5% vanadium. Most grades contain about 0.5% molybdenum and most grades contain 4 - 12% cobalt. It was soon discovered that molybdenum (smaller proportions)could be substituted for most of the tungsten resulting in a more economical formulation which had better abrasion resistance than the T series and undergoes less distortion during heat treatment. Consequently about 95% of all HSS tools are made from M series grades. These contain 5 - 10% molybdenum, 1.5 - 10% tungsten, 1 - 4% vanadium, 4% Chromium and many grades contain 5 - 10% cobalt. HSS tools are tough and suitable for interrupted cutting and are used to manufacture tools of complex shape such as drills, reamers, taps, dies and gear cutters. Tools may also be coated to improve wear resistance. HSS accounts for the largest tonnage of tool materials currently used. Typical cutting speeds: 10 - 60 m/min. 3 Cast Cobalt Alloys Introduced in early 1900s these alloys have compositions of about 40 - 55% cobalt, 30% chromium and 10 - 20% tungsten and are not heat treatable. Maximum hardness values of 55 - 64 Rc. They have good wear resistance but are not as tough as HSS but can be used at somewhat higher speeds than HSS. Now only in limited use. 4 Carbides Also known as cemented carbides or sintered carbides were introduced in the 1930s and have high hardness over a wide range of temperatures, high thermal conductivity, high Young's modulus making them effective tool and die materials for a range of applications. The two groups used for machining are tungsten carbide and titanium carbide, both types may be coated or uncoated. Tungsten carbide particles (1 to 5 micro-m) are are bonded together in a cobalt matrix using powder metallurgy. The powder is pressed and sintered to the required insert shape. titanium and niobium carbides may also be included to impart special properties. A wide range of grades are available for different applications. Sintered carbide tips are the dominant type of material used in metal cutting. The proportion of cobalt (the usual matrix material) present has a significant effect on the properties of carbide tools. 3 - 6% matrix of cobalt gives greater hardness while 6 - 15% matrix of cobalt gives a greater toughness while decreasing the hardness, wear resistance and strength. Tungsten carbide tools are commonly used for machining steels, cast irons and abrasive non-ferrous materials. Titanium carbide has a higher wear resistance than tungsten but is not as tough. With a nickel-molybdenum alloy as the matrix, TiC is suitable for machining at higher speeds than those which can be used for tungsten carbide. Typical cutting speeds are: 30 - 150 m/min or 100 - 250 when coated. 5 Coatings Coatings are frequently applied to carbide tool tips to improve tool life or to enable higher cutting speeds. Coated tips typically have lives 10 times greater than uncoated tips. Common coating materials include titanium nitride, titanium carbide and aluminium oxide, usually 2 - 15 micro-m thick. Often several different layers may be applied, one on top of another, depending upon the intended application of the tip. The techniques used for applying coatings include chemical vapour deposition (CVD) plasma assisted CVD and physical vapour deposition (PVD). Diamond coatings are also in use and being further developed. 6 Cermets Developed in the 1960s, these typically contain 70% aluminium oxide and 30% titanium carbide. Some formulation contain molybdenum carbide, niobium carbide and tantalum carbide. Their performance is between those of carbides and ceramics and coatings seem to offer few benefits. Typical cutting speeds: 150 - 350 m/min. 7 Ceramics - Alumina Introduced in the early 1950s, two classes are used for cutting tools: fine grained high purity aluminium oxide (Al2O3) and silicon nitride (Si3N4) are pressed into insert tip shapes and sintered at high temperatures. Additions of titanium carbide and zirconium oxide (ZrO2) may be made to improve properties. But while ZrO2 improves the fracture toughness, it reduces the hardness and thermal conductivity. Silicon carbide (SiC) whiskers may be added to give better toughness and improved thermal shock resistance. The tips have high abrasion resistance and hot hardness and their superior chemical stability compared to HSS and carbides means they are less likely to adhere to the metals during cutting and consequently have a lower tendency to form a built up edge. Their main weakness is low toughness and negative rake angles are often used to avoid chipping due to their low tensile strengths. Stiff machine tools and work set ups should be used when machining with ceramic tips as otherwise vibration is likely to lead to premature failure of the tip. Typical cutting speeds: 150 - 650 m/min. Silicon Nitride In the 1970s a tool material based on silicon nitride was developed, these may also contain aluminium oxide, yttrium oxide and titanium carbide. SiN has an affinity for iron and is not suitable for machining steels. A specific type is 'Sialon', containing the elements: silicon, aluminium, oxygen and nitrogen. This has higher thermal shock resistance than silicon nitride and is recommended for machining cast irons and nickel based superalloys at intermediate cutting speeds. 8 Cubic Boron Nitride (cBN) Introduced in the early 1960s, this is the second hardest material available after diamond. cBN tools may be used either in the form of small solid tips or or as a 0.5 to 1 mm thick layer of of polycrystalline boron nitride sintered onto a carbide substrate under pressure. In the latter case the carbide provides shock resistance and the cBN layer provides very high wear resistance and cutting edge strength. Cubic boron nitride is the standard choice for machining alloy and tool steels with a hardness of 50 Rc or higher. Typical cutting speeds: 30 - 310 m/min. 9 Diamond The hardest known substance is diamond. Although single crystal diamond has been used as a tool, they are brittle and need to be mounted at the correct crystal orientation to obtain optimal tool life. Single crystal diamond tools have been mainly replaced by polycrystalline diamond (PCD). This consists of very small synthetic crystals fused by a high temperature high pressure process to a thickness of between 0.5 and 1mm and bonded to a carbide substrate. The result is similar to cBN tools. The random orientation of the diamond crystals prevents the propagation of cracks, improving toughness. Because of its reactivity, PCD is not suitable for machining plain carbon steels or nickel, titanium and cobalt based alloys. PCD is most suited to light uninterrupted finishing cuts at almost any speed and is mainly used for very high speed machining of aluminium - silicon alloys, composites and other non - metallic materials. Typical cutting speeds: 200 - 2000 m/min. 10 Other Materials To improve the toughness of tools, developments are being carried out with whisker reinforcement, such as silicon nitride reinforced with silicon carbide whiskers.
The knowledge gained from your inputs are so thorough & simply compiled that even the basic students would easily understand. A great compilation on the modern tooling materials and highly appreciated.
I don't even have a cordless drill at home. I am however a german industrial mechanic and find it interesting how much you can still teach me. Not that I wouldn't have learned what you're teaching at some point in my apprenticeship, BUT you manage to explain concepts way easier or refresh my memory on stuff. Thank you
I am planning on doing some research on tool making, lathe work and so on and so forth. RUclips recommended this and I am so grateful! Thank you, very helpful!!!
You are awesome. I love your sense of humor, and the cutaways are outstanding. I believe you, and Jimmy Diresta, have taught me more than any other RUclipsrs! Take that as high praise, please.
I started a hobby that required making things out of steel. I started with spinning the work in a drill press and grinding on it with a rotary tool. Since then I have purchased a cheap little Harbor Freight metal lathe. With a 25% coupon they can be had for about $430. AND THEN...HURRAY the fun begins.
Tony fantastic job again! I did want to add that the coating in the inserts I sent you is PVD rather than the TICN coating you have been running . The coating as amazing , it is what provides the cutting surface. I like to think of it as a layer of magic. This provides a very sharp cutting edge and why your part was cool when you where done. I have seen a significant drop in power needed to use the newer PVD tooling. Again love what you are doing for the Hobby people, keep up the great work!
Here is an article that tells a small amount about the coatings. This stuff can get a little overwhelming quickly. www.productionmachining.com/articles/a-guide-to-insert-coating-processes-and-materials
Yes, it is a process and how they apply. The PVD coating is all they tell us :) The formula as that link showed is not the same for all of brands. I have found that Seco has worked the best for us here. The speeds are amazing for the new carbide. The new tools will allow for 1700 - 1900 FPM . We can't run that fast on most of the parts we make but in testing DNMG tooling with a nice sharp tip and a low feed chip breaker have allowed us to make some amazing parts on small lathes. We where doing Tops at cabin Fever in PA. The people asked me how I polished them, I had to cut one to show we where not doing anything. I don't know the formula of the coating but I can tell you that it works and it is scale able down to a 500W spindle.
I found this channel maybe a month ago and have been watching the back catalog. More people need to find this channel. 193k subscribers November 2017. Nothing to sneeze at but it deserves more. Full of knowledge and entertaining.
Fabulous presentation - especially for those like myself still harbouring a myriad of questions - many of which you answered. A serious expression of my sincere gratitude is hence forth given!
Dude! You are an excellent instructor and this compliment comes from a retired instructor though not in machining. We just obtained a mini-lathe as a hobby and are learning a lot and having a lot of fun and we'll be watching you. Thanks for the video!
I started lathe work with carbide tooling, couldn't figure out why the parting tool kept breaking so I got frustrated, ran it dry and reefed on it. Cleanest parting cut I ever saw
@@orionfleming6783 Try running the parting tool upside down on the opposite side of the work. That helps with the "flexible" tool posts of cheap tiny lathes.
Hi Tony, Thank you for all the things I never knew. I did a 5 year apprentice in production engineering sitting in a class with a lot of Rolls Royce and British Aerospace workers and we never covered any of this stuff. I feel like I'm getting a whole new education. Many thanks.
I've been a fan for a long time, and I just circled back and found this video. I find you're approach hilarious and learned a few things along the way. Much better idea on why I never get chip breakers to work right.. That was a very useful explanation of the high points of carbide.
TOT: you are a brave soul to tackle carbide tooling as a topic, there are sooooooooooooooooooooo many variables, not the least of which is many home shop lathes are of a vintage and or style not really meant to take advantage of the benefits of carbide which in turn (ha, ha?) means increasing those variables at least several exponential levels.
Good video Tony ! You have a great way of helping so many of us out here sort through the maze without feeling like we are alone ! Gotta say that I was in the beginning stages of withdrawal when I seen the notification for your new video, but feeling a lot better now ! ;-) Thanks for sharing and take care.
"Tooling for our machines that we need to cut raw materials into scrap metal *beep* into parts for our projects" I laugh because it's painfully true too many times
I started butchering - I mean cutting metal two years ago when I retired. I bought and broke loads of cheap inserts and holders until I realised that I was cutting too little too slow. When I upped the game - WOW! Like you said, I also started buying better quality tooling. Its a steep learning curve - in fact I feel like I'm rolling backwards downhill some days. But I am finally getting results. One discovery recently was the highly polished inserts for aluminium alloys - brilliant. However use of inserts has also forced me to learn how to grind HSS for special jobs. Great vids Tony - keep em coming!
As someone who has just recently got into machining and making videos on RUclips your videos really help. Very informative with proper dad jokes dropped in brilliant 👍
You've got to pick through a lot of garbage on RUclips to find the hidden treasures like this channel, limitless knowledge and exceptional content 👍💯 Very very appreciated
If you plan on grinding your own carbide tooling, just know usually the component that holds carbide particles together is cobalt and its not the best thing to inhale. So use precautions like respirator etc. I'm sure Tony just forgot to mention this.
@Dennis Young better safe than sorry. You would need a continuous stream of coolant around and over the entire surface to minimize the risk of breathable particles flying about.
Another great video Tony! One thing that keeps coming up on hobby forums for people with smaller lathes is they always say they can not remove much material on them because they are not heavy enough and/or don't have enough horse power. I have an old Craftsman 12" lathe, and find that for the most part, if you use it like it was designed, using a lantern tool holder, HSS and the proper high positive rake, you can peel off much larger amounts than using a quick change toolpost and insert tooling. Now I will say I also do not use the lantern very often, and use insert tooling, but because of the higher speeds and feeds required, as you pointed out, I typically use HSS inserts from Arthur R. Warner in my holders. They cut much better at lower speeds, and you can keep them sharp with honing. Keep up the great work, love watching and learning!
I'm an aerospace R&D turn crank by trade that works short run and prototype for a mom and pop job shop... and I must say everytime I watch a TOT video, whether I've seen it before or not, by the end I always want to kick on the power to the garage and make something I don't need for something I don't have! When a "hobby" machinist can rekindle the joy of machining in someone that's saying something! Tony, like most of the comments affirm I too, tend to stop what ever I'm doing when a new video hits (usually at work), develop an emergency blader issue, and bail out of sight for twenty or so minutes. I personally enjoy your longer videos. Keep it up man.. tho old, crotchety kats like me that are out there need you to remind us why we chose this method of meditation I the first place!!
One very smart , talented , creative , and funny guy. I have always enjoyed every time he post for benefit of others. Come to think of it as youtube community goes we are blessed with many talented and creative people who take the time to share with others . I fir one appreciate them all even the canucks
Having just ordered my first set of carbide-insert cutting tools (the cheap ones off Ebay) for my new mini-lathe, this video was exactly what I needed to understand what I'm getting into. When I worked at a machine shop back in the 80's, we had HSS and brazed carbide - no inserts for us. As a hobbyist who doesn't have a grinder yet, the inserts are a great option to have.
Grinding hss is nutritious for toolroom penny. Once you get to see the result of eyeballing radii yo kinda get to feel what your machine is able to do. Dont avoid learning the craft, because it will come back to bite you.
I totally love carbide endmills. Carbide tools on the mill don't bend as much and also last long, even in the home shop.... that is unless you use carbide on a lathe like mine, the one that stops as the belt slips, welding the fractured carbide bits to the work. Oh, the joys.
I have a very old South Bend lathe with a flat belt drive. I replaced the old leather belt with a more modern stronger and tougher one but it slipped more, making it harder (read slower) to get any work done. What I eventually did was buy some 3M Scotch rubber electrical tape (3/4" wide) and I wrapped two layers on each pulley on the drive and the lathe head...so six surfaces in all and PRESTO!!I can now take bigger cuts and the lathe is quieter, no click click as the belt goes around. I have to change the rubber about once a year....the tape is not crazy expensive and the roll lasts me a few years. Try it, it works great. NOTE: I do not mean the typical black vinyl electrical tape.....you have to get the rubber stuff....it sticks to itself but is not "sticky" per se.
Just discovered your channel; fantastic. Really love the way you make your videos so entertaining while at the same time making them so informative. Excellent stuff, thank you.
Im not into this thing, i don't do nothing with steel, carbide or any of it. But somehow i enjoy and love your videos. You making stuff and talking about things is calming and relieves stress for me. Thank you
That CCMT insert actually has 4 cutting edges. There are holders available that utilize the other two edges. If using a cnmg insert, you end up with 8 edges. They also make holders with various entry angles too, to really make use of the strength available in the "other two" edges on the 80 degree diamond inserts.
Yep, the shop I used to work in we used the other 2 edges in milling heads, so once we chewed up the 2 fine points on the lathe, they went in a bucket by the mill to be used there. Got a lot of use out of them.
I happen to have an exam about cutting tools next week and I don't feel guilty about watching this video while I should be studying. Good vid kind sir.
Not owning a lathe, nor a milling machine, I had no practical reason to watch this. However, it caught my attention and it was fascinating. Really nice style, Tony, and I learned a lot. Thanks.
Carbide is a sintered product. Manufactured using high temperatures and pressures. It is generally unaffected by exposure to high temperatures. And can with stand high pressures as long as it isn't applied as a shock.
Fantastic video, I am envious of your machining + video making. I will have to rewatch a couple of times to pick up all the info - I am overstimmed right now. Thank you.
Im in my vocational training as a Mechatronic right now here in germany and before it started, and i watched your videos like 2 years bevore it started. Now im just sitting at home watching those Videos in my freetime, realising how much i love metalwork 😁💕😊😊
Tony, if you had been a school teacher, I may have gone on to get a doctorate or two. Very informative and as usual, well presented. Your time, much appreciated.
Slightly off topic but I'd like to mention that the Chinese haven't yet found a way to mix the lead/butter mixture into carbide endmills like they have with their pot metal... I mean "steel"
Tony thanks for giving people who don't normally use carbide some very useful tips such as either flood or no coolant and running higher surface speeds than they might do now. I was always taught positive rake for aluminium and cast iron. The turning tools I believe use tip pressure generally to melt the material and sweep it away.
04-03-02, or more commonly 432, is hands down the most popular (ie easiest and cheapest to find used) size, so that 848 is just silly big. Hobbyists should be in the 332 size area really, especially if buying new (20% costs savings over 432). The W and S are popular, but the C shape rules, since the 80 degree diamond gives you 4 cutting corners. Don't bother buying new anything not rocking that N for zero relief, since you double your cutting surfaces and besides your tool holder gets you the relief. Buying used, try sticking to the 432 if costs are a big issue. Or just go silly with the variety if the prices are good, and you're just curious.
The audience that would most benefit from this video is the exact combination of select but non-trivial that pretty much defines the greatest potential of the internet as a whole.
My new milling machine is on it's way to being delivered to me and I've been contemplating on taking some machining classes, UNTIL i stumbled upon this channel😂 Thanks for all of this valuable information sir!👍👍👍👍👍
I have a 6" Craftsman Atlas lathe on my sailboat. Getting geared up to cruise the world and came here with tons of questions about what type cutting tools I should be taking with me. All of my questions were just answered! Thanks!!!
problem I got with these chip break tests people keep doing is that the diameter keeps changing but speed and depth of cut remains the same. it is the material removal rate that dictates the chips. all insert tooling guys include that spec on their inserts, then you just calculate proper feed and speed for the diameter of the cut you are doing, using maths somehow.
pontusieg, what you're referring to is surface speed. In order to maintain a specific surface speed, as the diameter decreases, the rpm needs to increase. Depending on the grade of insert and the material to be machined, I use the formula: 315 (pi) × cutting speed in m/min ÷ diameter in mm= rpm. So... 315×180=56700, then 56700÷200=283.5 rpm. 180m/min being a conservative, continuous cutting speed in 4140 steels. its a bit late, but i hope this helps.
I'd say it is actually pretty apt. When you're talking about something as in-depth as machining, 30 minutes spent talking about something as general as carbide tools, that is a pretty brief chat. I bet Tony, or any machinist, could spend hours talking more at-length about even just one type of carbide tool.
I'm a machinist by profession. I didn't watch the entire video. 30 minutes IS a "brief chat" on the subject of carbide cutting tools. If you don't have 30 minutes to spend learning about it, then you probably don't need to be anywhere near a machine tool either.
Great video Tony. I have a 1947 Logan 820 I restored. It has a 10" swing with 24" between center and it only has a 1/2 HP motor (the original 1947 motor!). After I saw this video I had to try the WNMG. The problem was, even the smallest version of this insert have holders with a 3/4" shank. So I bought the 3/4" and milled it down to 1/2". I used the insert at 1450 RPM with a 1-1/2" bar and was able to take up to about .080" a pass. It was most definitely pushing the limits of my lathe but it and .050" would be a more logical depth of cut. Anyway, if I need to tale off a lot of metal this is now my go to insert, I love it. Just a side note, a friend of mine runs a machine shop told me that I would probable would not be able to do this with a South Bend or Atlas or many other older small lathes. He said the fact that Logan has a ball bearings spindle instead of sleeve bearings makes it do much better with carbide inserts.
Yes, that works to get cheap tool steel, but this is not high speed steel. It will anneal and soften at a relatively low temperature. Also, lots of files are case hardened, so you may get an unevenly hardened tool unless you anneal/reharden the tool after you've ground it.
Hi Tony, this is Old Bob. excellent and very useful presentation. camera work equally great with machining. I like carbide inserts and the fact that their edge finishing has a bit more tangential aproach to the work as HSS has. Sometimes I feel that as HSS ground it's only scraping off material instead of "peeling" it off. Being from old school I used to the tangent type of "grinding tools". It could also be mentioned that carbide tools cannot take vibrations, a specially on cheap mini mills.
THANK YOU for the explanation. Got a new to me old lathe with these kinds of tools and I had no idea where to start. I've run my Rockwell 14" 3hp since I was 8 (26years) with nearly all of the other tooling, now I am getting ready to turn my American Pacemaker 16"x54" on for the first time and have a better understanding of these 'weird' tools.
I believe it's because it's not as sharp as hss, and therefore needs a higher surface speed to give a good finish. As for why higher surface speed gives a better surface finish, i have no idea, but i'd like to know if someone else does.
It burnishes the surface (melts it a bit) because the carbide is not super sharp at the cutting edge. HSS shears the metal away so the sharper it gets the less tearing and the better the finish.
It doesn't require high speeds. It simply has the capability to run much faster than hss. The higher cutting speeds are to take advantage of its high temperature hardness
Hey buddy. I commented a few months ago about how you reminded me of my grandfather. Anyways, I'm still watching your show and I just couldn't feel more at home when I listen to you talk about this "boring" stuff. That's what my girlfriend say's, ha. Not boring at all. I recognize a smart person from a mile away and It's not wonder I found your channel. Big fan - Corbin.
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Tony, just wanted to drop by and say thanks. I'd consider myself a fairly experienced hobby machinist, but after watching this video on carbide tips, I went into the shop and raised my spindle speeds and cut depths considerably. Holy heck. I can't believe the results. Now running 3 x faster and taking cuts 4 x deeper. Instead of swarf, I'm now covered in 1" long chips. I'm now taking 40 thou at 1250 rpm. You Sir are a legend.
Your depth of cut should normally be a minimum the same as your nose radius, and a true bare minimum of 2/3 your nose radius. So if you were using a "08" nose (1/32") then 40 thousandths is good, and a typical minimum of .032" depth. Hopefully if you were only taking .010" cuts before you were using an 04 (1/64) nose, since the absolutely minimum of that is a 10 thou cut. Those are just the general rules for proper chipping and surface finish, but also require a proper feed rate and RPM top go with them.
The maximum depth depends on the insert type, how much HP the machine has, and how rigid the machine is. A CNMG type has the largest depth of cut (.667 * length of insert edge), next is a TNMG and DNMG (.5 * edge length). WNMG is usually the smallest maximum depth of cut insert type (.25 * length to the middle point of the edge), but the tradeoff is it can be used for both turning and facing and has 6 cutting sides per insert.
@@LordSaliss i wish I knew what those words meant. I have a little mini lathe. Im here to figure out what the different tooling is used and how its used. Think im already ar a disadvantage. My motor burned up so I put on a ½ hp motor from a whole house fan. Only have high and low. With no idea as to the rpm.
@@kathleenrobertpogue6818 Highly recommend picking up an old treadmill or stairstepper for cheap. Durable strong motors in those things, and can be had for sometimes less than $50, especially if you find a damaged one with a good motor
I came here with two big questions. #1 How to distinguish carbide inserts via taste-test, and #2 where DOES he get his nails done. You answered NEITHER.
10/10 will watch again.
Carbide is significantly heavier than HSS, also isn't very magnetic
+Jake Scollay: "Carbide is significantly heavier than HSS, also isn't very magnetic"
And it tastes like chicken.
Cook your carbide in the sous vide at 66C for an hour then finish with a quick sear in a hot pan. Really brings out the flavor and reduces the brittleness caused by sauteing.
Both nails and carbide are done "a la dente" and remember the water should be as salty as the Mediterranean. Hence biting both; rather salty.
Brad Gefroh you checked out the wrong video,dumb ass!don't blame anybody but yurself,you×:-'ing moron!
I'm in training for a machinist, got hired on an operator at a company and they are slowly training me. I've learned more knowledge from your videos then I have on the job. I can't say how thankful I am that you put so much time and effort into these videos.
There are better videos and machinist.
@@stretchhfab7315 Could you list a couple please.
@@stretchhfab7315 Yes there are! But what does that have to do with what he said?
On the job training sucks because they are only going to teach you what they need you to know.
@@andy1way Advanced innovations, max grant, Matty's workshop, there all good you will find the ones you like but Tony is good also Cheers
I don't own a lathe.
WHY AM I WATCHING THIS
10/10
@ChrisHallett83
**cries in poor.. (latheless)**
Because some of us are touched by the machine spirit.
@@AMRAMRS this is currently happening to me
Eh, I'm gonna try to get the local men's shed to buy one, then I can use it. That or work at the local machinists, but I dunno if they do much manual work
I have been for 3 hours...AVSL, Joe...all the bunch but no torno at all
I keep coming back through these videos year after year. The knowledge is great, the humor is right up my alley, editing is tight, and the music is always a nice fit. They're just a joy to watch. I've gotten an interest in CNC and robotics thanks to channels like this. Thank you Tony!
The quality of your videos is just amazing Tony, your channel really is one of the gems of yt!
I watched this video a year ago, and now I had to come back after finally buying my first lathe. This has been a great refresher for what I think I need to start with for tooling.
Oh yeah! And here I am, also joining the club with one :p
The difference between TOT and AVE? Tony conceals his lunacy and then springs it on you, while AVE flaunts it from every angle simultaneously
There is some good staff ruclips.net/video/NDIsw2G6hZc/видео.html
I've got to agree with you there. Both have the capacity to make me spit out the coffee. Thankfully I'm mostly viewing them on a tablet, more coffee proof!
Ave sucks
@@BikingVikingHH who is ave/ what does it stand for ?
@@FatLava
AvE = Arduino vs Evil (Evil because of the Evil smoke monster of burning/smoldering chips and integrated circuits)
He is Uncle Bumblefuck. You can't miss his channel, it's literally AvE (unfortunately I don't know how to easily insert the link from my phone).
Both ToT and AvE are my favorite channels and always watch their vidjeos.
Hopefully you will enjoy and learn some things as I did.
Keep your stick in a vice...
1 Carbon Steels
Carbon steels have been used since the 1880s for cutting tools. However carbon steels start to soften at a temperature of about 180oC. This limitation means that such tools are rarely used for metal cutting operations. Plain carbon steel tools, containing about 0.9% carbon and about 1% manganese, hardened to about 62 Rc, are widely used for woodworking and they can be used in a router to machine aluminium sheet up to about 3mm thick.
2 High Speed Steel (HSS)
HSS tools are so named because they were developed to cut at higher speeds. Developed around 1900 HSS are the most highly alloyed tool steels. The tungsten (T series) were developed first and typically contain 12 - 18% tungsten, plus about 4% chromium and 1 - 5% vanadium. Most grades contain about 0.5% molybdenum and most grades contain 4 - 12% cobalt.
It was soon discovered that molybdenum (smaller proportions)could be substituted for most of the tungsten resulting in a more economical formulation which had better abrasion resistance than the T series and undergoes less distortion during heat treatment. Consequently about 95% of all HSS tools are made from M series grades. These contain 5 - 10% molybdenum, 1.5 - 10% tungsten, 1 - 4% vanadium, 4% Chromium and many grades contain 5 - 10% cobalt.
HSS tools are tough and suitable for interrupted cutting and are used to manufacture tools of complex shape such as drills, reamers, taps, dies and gear cutters. Tools may also be coated to improve wear resistance. HSS accounts for the largest tonnage of tool materials currently used. Typical cutting speeds: 10 - 60 m/min.
3 Cast Cobalt Alloys
Introduced in early 1900s these alloys have compositions of about 40 - 55% cobalt, 30% chromium and 10 - 20% tungsten and are not heat treatable. Maximum hardness values of 55 - 64 Rc. They have good wear resistance but are not as tough as HSS but can be used at somewhat higher speeds than HSS. Now only in limited use.
4 Carbides
Also known as cemented carbides or sintered carbides were introduced in the 1930s and have high hardness over a wide range of temperatures, high thermal conductivity, high Young's modulus making them effective tool and die materials for a range of applications.
The two groups used for machining are tungsten carbide and titanium carbide, both types may be coated or uncoated.
Tungsten carbide particles (1 to 5 micro-m) are are bonded together in a cobalt matrix using powder metallurgy. The powder is pressed and sintered to the required insert shape. titanium and niobium carbides may also be included to impart special properties.
A wide range of grades are available for different applications.
Sintered carbide tips are the dominant type of material used in metal cutting.
The proportion of cobalt (the usual matrix material) present has a significant effect on the properties of carbide tools. 3 - 6% matrix of cobalt gives greater hardness while 6 - 15% matrix of cobalt gives a greater toughness while decreasing the hardness, wear resistance and strength. Tungsten carbide tools are commonly used for machining steels, cast irons and abrasive non-ferrous materials.
Titanium carbide has a higher wear resistance than tungsten but is not as tough. With a nickel-molybdenum alloy as the matrix, TiC is suitable for machining at higher speeds than those which can be used for tungsten carbide. Typical cutting speeds are: 30 - 150 m/min or 100 - 250 when coated.
5 Coatings
Coatings are frequently applied to carbide tool tips to improve tool life or to enable higher cutting speeds. Coated tips typically have lives 10 times greater than uncoated tips. Common coating materials include titanium nitride, titanium carbide and aluminium oxide, usually 2 - 15 micro-m thick. Often several different layers may be applied, one on top of another, depending upon the intended application of the tip. The techniques used for applying coatings include chemical vapour deposition (CVD) plasma assisted CVD and physical vapour deposition (PVD).
Diamond coatings are also in use and being further developed.
6 Cermets
Developed in the 1960s, these typically contain 70% aluminium oxide and 30% titanium carbide. Some formulation contain molybdenum carbide, niobium carbide and tantalum carbide. Their performance is between those of carbides and ceramics and coatings seem to offer few benefits. Typical cutting speeds: 150 - 350 m/min.
7 Ceramics -
Alumina
Introduced in the early 1950s, two classes are used for cutting tools: fine grained high purity aluminium oxide (Al2O3) and silicon nitride (Si3N4) are pressed into insert tip shapes and sintered at high temperatures. Additions of titanium carbide and zirconium oxide (ZrO2) may be made to improve properties. But while ZrO2 improves the fracture toughness, it reduces the hardness and thermal conductivity. Silicon carbide (SiC) whiskers may be added to give better toughness and improved thermal shock resistance.
The tips have high abrasion resistance and hot hardness and their superior chemical stability compared to HSS and carbides means they are less likely to adhere to the metals during cutting and consequently have a lower tendency to form a built up edge. Their main weakness is low toughness and negative rake angles are often used to avoid chipping due to their low tensile strengths. Stiff machine tools and work set ups should be used when machining with ceramic tips as otherwise vibration is likely to lead to premature failure of the tip. Typical cutting speeds: 150 - 650 m/min.
Silicon Nitride
In the 1970s a tool material based on silicon nitride was developed, these may also contain aluminium oxide, yttrium oxide and titanium carbide. SiN has an affinity for iron and is not suitable for machining steels. A specific type is 'Sialon', containing the elements: silicon, aluminium, oxygen and nitrogen. This has higher thermal shock resistance than silicon nitride and is recommended for machining cast irons and nickel based superalloys at intermediate cutting speeds.
8 Cubic Boron Nitride (cBN)
Introduced in the early 1960s, this is the second hardest material available after diamond. cBN tools may be used either in the form of small solid tips or or as a 0.5 to 1 mm thick layer of of polycrystalline boron nitride sintered onto a carbide substrate under pressure. In the latter case the carbide provides shock resistance and the cBN layer provides very high wear resistance and cutting edge strength. Cubic boron nitride is the standard choice for machining alloy and tool steels with a hardness of 50 Rc or higher. Typical cutting speeds: 30 - 310 m/min.
9 Diamond
The hardest known substance is diamond. Although single crystal diamond has been used as a tool, they are brittle and need to be mounted at the correct crystal orientation to obtain optimal tool life. Single crystal diamond tools have been mainly replaced by polycrystalline diamond (PCD). This consists of very small synthetic crystals fused by a high temperature high pressure process to a thickness of between 0.5 and 1mm and bonded to a carbide substrate. The result is similar to cBN tools. The random orientation of the diamond crystals prevents the propagation of cracks, improving toughness.
Because of its reactivity, PCD is not suitable for machining plain carbon steels or nickel, titanium and cobalt based alloys.
PCD is most suited to light uninterrupted finishing cuts at almost any speed and is mainly used for very high speed machining of aluminium - silicon alloys, composites and other non - metallic materials. Typical cutting speeds: 200 - 2000 m/min.
10 Other Materials
To improve the toughness of tools, developments are being carried out with whisker reinforcement, such as silicon nitride reinforced with silicon carbide whiskers.
The knowledge gained from your inputs are so thorough & simply compiled that even the basic students would easily understand.
A great compilation on the modern tooling materials and highly appreciated.
Was this Google paste
I was not prepared for the commitment required to read this whole post....
Great information, but YT comments are a bugger to format when pasted into MS Word. :-(
@@TrevorDennis100 paste to notepad 1st then copy the notepad to Word (the format will be nicer)
Top video mate,all the little touches are noticed and not wasted! You always raise a smile along side relevant information.
I don't even have a cordless drill at home.
I am however a german industrial mechanic and find it interesting how much you can still teach me. Not that I wouldn't have learned what you're teaching at some point in my apprenticeship, BUT you manage to explain concepts way easier or refresh my memory on stuff.
Thank you
I'd like to let you know I always go to your videos first when I see them in my subscription feed :) cheers!
Seraph Same here :)
+1
Seraph always got a good feeling thats its going to be a 20 minplus video with this channel
Me too ^^
Its like Christmas when Tony and Stefan publish a new video on the same day :-)
I am planning on doing some research on tool making, lathe work and so on and so forth. RUclips recommended this and I am so grateful! Thank you, very helpful!!!
Hey, Tony, I'm not a machinist, far from it, I'm more of an IT guy, but still, I absolutely love your videos. Keep them coming, man! :)
I saw the title and thought this wasn't for me, but your delivery style and subject knowledge are mesmerising, thanks Tony!
*I wish every tech video was in the format quality editing a humor as this guy. Even if you don't like the subject you still would like these videos.*
You are awesome. I love your sense of humor, and the cutaways are outstanding. I believe you, and Jimmy Diresta, have taught me more than any other RUclipsrs! Take that as high praise, please.
i've never even used a mill or lathe before, and i can't stop watching this channel. lol
never used? I've never even been near one!
Do. it will change your life...and the balance in your bank account.
yeah, especially the bank balance lol
Seriously I'm a wood worker (luthier) though I could get a lathe, just can justify it, not yet anyway lol. But I love this channel.
I started a hobby that required making things out of steel. I started with spinning the work in a drill press and grinding on it with a rotary tool. Since then I have purchased a cheap little Harbor Freight metal lathe. With a 25% coupon they can be had for about $430. AND THEN...HURRAY the fun begins.
I love all the time you spend editing little flourishes and jokes into your videos, really puts them in a league of their own. Thanks Tony!
It must be in the water, his vids have that Italian art film feel...
Tony fantastic job again! I did want to add that the coating in the inserts I sent you is PVD rather than the TICN coating you have been running . The coating as amazing , it is what provides the cutting surface. I like to think of it as a layer of magic. This provides a very sharp cutting edge and why your part was cool when you where done. I have seen a significant drop in power needed to use the newer PVD tooling. Again love what you are doing for the Hobby people, keep up the great work!
Here is an article that tells a small amount about the coatings. This stuff can get a little overwhelming quickly.
www.productionmachining.com/articles/a-guide-to-insert-coating-processes-and-materials
Yes, it is a process and how they apply. The PVD coating is all they tell us :) The formula as that link showed is not the same for all of brands. I have found that Seco has worked the best for us here. The speeds are amazing for the new carbide. The new tools will allow for 1700 - 1900 FPM . We can't run that fast on most of the parts we make but in testing DNMG tooling with a nice sharp tip and a low feed chip breaker have allowed us to make some amazing parts on small lathes. We where doing Tops at cabin Fever in PA. The people asked me how I polished them, I had to cut one to show we where not doing anything. I don't know the formula of the coating but I can tell you that it works and it is scale able down to a 500W spindle.
I found this channel maybe a month ago and have been watching the back catalog. More people need to find this channel. 193k subscribers November 2017. Nothing to sneeze at but it deserves more. Full of knowledge and entertaining.
Easiest thing to make in any shop is a broken end mill or bit.
There is some good staff ruclips.net/video/NDIsw2G6hZc/видео.html
Or mill vice
lol
When you get really good, like me, you can turn aluminum and steel stock into scrap.
@Dennis Young I like to turn small broken carbide into spade bits - good for drilling out other broken (HSS) stuff if it's not too deep.
Fabulous presentation - especially for those like myself still harbouring a myriad of questions - many of which you answered. A serious expression of my sincere gratitude is hence forth given!
Well, I'm exhausted. Nine more times, and I might retain all of this. Great video, massive amount of information. Thanks
Dude! You are an excellent instructor and this compliment comes from a retired instructor though not in machining. We just obtained a mini-lathe as a hobby and are learning a lot and having a lot of fun and we'll be watching you. Thanks for the video!
I started lathe work with carbide tooling, couldn't figure out why the parting tool kept breaking so I got frustrated, ran it dry and reefed on it. Cleanest parting cut I ever saw
I can never get my parting tool to work worth anything, will give that a try.
@Current Batches my lathe is just a smithy, and I run into chattering problems a lot with it because it is so light.
Truth. The box does say up to .01 per rev
@@orionfleming6783 Try running the parting tool upside down on the opposite side of the work. That helps with the "flexible" tool posts of cheap tiny lathes.
Making sure you're cutting below center can help.
Old Tony...l listen and realise hell I know all this stuff, but you are the voice in my head! Love your work!
Hi Tony,
Thank you for all the things I never knew. I did a 5 year apprentice in production engineering sitting in a class with a lot of Rolls Royce and British Aerospace workers and we never covered any of this stuff.
I feel like I'm getting a whole new education. Many thanks.
I've been a fan for a long time, and I just circled back and found this video. I find you're approach hilarious and learned a few things along the way. Much better idea on why I never get chip breakers to work right.. That was a very useful explanation of the high points of carbide.
TOT: you are a brave soul to tackle carbide tooling as a topic, there are sooooooooooooooooooooo many variables, not the least of which is many home shop lathes are of a vintage and or style not really meant to take advantage of the benefits of carbide which in turn (ha, ha?) means increasing those variables at least several exponential levels.
Thanks Russ.. and yes, these sorts of videos aren't easy to make. :)
Good video Tony ! You have a great way of helping so many of us out here sort through the maze without feeling like we are alone !
Gotta say that I was in the beginning stages of withdrawal when I seen the notification for your new video, but feeling a lot better now ! ;-)
Thanks for sharing and take care.
"Tooling for our machines that we need to cut raw materials into scrap metal *beep* into parts for our projects" I laugh because it's painfully true too many times
I started butchering - I mean cutting metal two years ago when I retired. I bought and broke loads of cheap inserts and holders until I realised that I was cutting too little too slow. When I upped the game - WOW! Like you said, I also started buying better quality tooling. Its a steep learning curve - in fact I feel like I'm rolling backwards downhill some days. But I am finally getting results. One discovery recently was the highly polished inserts for aluminium alloys - brilliant. However use of inserts has also forced me to learn how to grind HSS for special jobs. Great vids Tony - keep em coming!
As someone who has just recently got into machining and making videos on RUclips your videos really help. Very informative with proper dad jokes dropped in brilliant 👍
You've got to pick through a lot of garbage on RUclips to find the hidden treasures like this channel, limitless knowledge and exceptional content 👍💯 Very very appreciated
If you plan on grinding your own carbide tooling, just know usually the component that holds carbide particles together is cobalt and its not the best thing to inhale. So use precautions like respirator etc. I'm sure Tony just forgot to mention this.
Yes! Good point. I mentioned that in the boring head video but this would've been a fine place to bring it up again.
@Dennis Young better safe than sorry. You would need a continuous stream of coolant around and over the entire surface to minimize the risk of breathable particles flying about.
@@eccomi21 even then not worth it. Best to be kept safely locked away from the world. In today’s world danger lurks everywhere.
Wow I can't believe this came out 7 years ago, time flies when you're having fun.
Another great video Tony! One thing that keeps coming up on hobby forums for people with smaller lathes is they always say they can not remove much material on them because they are not heavy enough and/or don't have enough horse power. I have an old Craftsman 12" lathe, and find that for the most part, if you use it like it was designed, using a lantern tool holder, HSS and the proper high positive rake, you can peel off much larger amounts than using a quick change toolpost and insert tooling. Now I will say I also do not use the lantern very often, and use insert tooling, but because of the higher speeds and feeds required, as you pointed out, I typically use HSS inserts from Arthur R. Warner in my holders. They cut much better at lower speeds, and you can keep them sharp with honing. Keep up the great work, love watching and learning!
I have to get up at 3:00 tomorrow morning but that's somehow not stopping me from watching this. Well done sir
Absolutely the first video I check in my feed.
It's amazing how much information can be cram packed into a short video! Well Done!
haha oh man that turning metal into scrap really got me good, so accurate.
I'm an aerospace R&D turn crank by trade that works short run and prototype for a mom and pop job shop... and I must say everytime I watch a TOT video, whether I've seen it before or not, by the end I always want to kick on the power to the garage and make something I don't need for something I don't have! When a "hobby" machinist can rekindle the joy of machining in someone that's saying something!
Tony, like most of the comments affirm I too, tend to stop what ever I'm doing when a new video hits (usually at work), develop an emergency blader issue, and bail out of sight for twenty or so minutes. I personally enjoy your longer videos. Keep it up man.. tho old, crotchety kats like me that are out there need you to remind us why we chose this method of meditation I the first place!!
Thanks for showing how you've been getting those perfectly smooth pans :D. It looks incredibly good.
One very smart , talented , creative , and funny guy. I have always enjoyed every time he post for benefit of others. Come to think of it as youtube community goes we are blessed with many talented and creative people who take the time to share with others . I fir one appreciate them all even the canucks
"I'm really happy with how that turned out" I see what you did there!
Finally a decent video on this subject. Thank you. Now I know HSS is still the right thing for me at this time. Your channel rocks!
Thanks Dale!
This is so interesting to me, a guy that never seen a lathe in person :)
Having just ordered my first set of carbide-insert cutting tools (the cheap ones off Ebay) for my new mini-lathe, this video was exactly what I needed to understand what I'm getting into. When I worked at a machine shop back in the 80's, we had HSS and brazed carbide - no inserts for us. As a hobbyist who doesn't have a grinder yet, the inserts are a great option to have.
Grinding hss is nutritious for toolroom penny. Once you get to see the result of eyeballing radii yo kinda get to feel what your machine is able to do.
Dont avoid learning the craft, because it will come back to bite you.
I totally love carbide endmills.
Carbide tools on the mill don't bend as much and also last long, even in the home shop.... that is unless you use carbide on a lathe like mine, the one that stops as the belt slips, welding the fractured carbide bits to the work. Oh, the joys.
I have a very old South Bend lathe with a flat belt drive. I replaced the old leather belt with a more modern stronger and tougher one but it slipped more, making it harder (read slower) to get any work done. What I eventually did was buy some 3M Scotch rubber electrical tape (3/4" wide) and I wrapped two layers on each pulley on the drive and the lathe head...so six surfaces in all and PRESTO!!I can now take bigger cuts and the lathe is quieter, no click click as the belt goes around. I have to change the rubber about once a year....the tape is not crazy expensive and the roll lasts me a few years. Try it, it works great. NOTE: I do not mean the typical black vinyl electrical tape.....you have to get the rubber stuff....it sticks to itself but is not "sticky" per se.
Just discovered your channel; fantastic. Really love the way you make your videos so entertaining while at the same time making them so informative. Excellent stuff, thank you.
Exciting is taking the RPM limit off a Mazak QT20 while it's doing facing. As the radius approaches zero, RPM approaches infinity.
Every time I watch one of your videos, even an old one, I get that feeling I haven't had since Christmas morning when I was a kid.
Another excellent video Tony!
Im not into this thing, i don't do nothing with steel, carbide or any of it. But somehow i enjoy and love your videos. You making stuff and talking about things is calming and relieves stress for me. Thank you
That CCMT insert actually has 4 cutting edges. There are holders available that utilize the other two edges. If using a cnmg insert, you end up with 8 edges. They also make holders with various entry angles too, to really make use of the strength available in the "other two" edges on the 80 degree diamond inserts.
Yep, the shop I used to work in we used the other 2 edges in milling heads, so once we chewed up the 2 fine points on the lathe, they went in a bucket by the mill to be used there. Got a lot of use out of them.
There is some good staff ruclips.net/video/NDIsw2G6hZc/видео.html
I happen to have an exam about cutting tools next week and I don't feel guilty about watching this video while I should be studying. Good vid kind sir.
>Brief
>28:08
You're my kind of guy.
Thank you so much This Old Tony!!!! You explain more in 20-ish minutes then I have found on the web and two days being a newbie.
Fookin' brilliant, mate. The cookie gag gets me every time!
Not owning a lathe, nor a milling machine, I had no practical reason to watch this. However, it caught my attention and it was fascinating. Really nice style, Tony, and I learned a lot. Thanks.
Carbide
Hay, what? Skip brazed carbide? :o
Stefan Gotteswinter a
Der Wissenskiosk What?
Carbide is a sintered product. Manufactured using high temperatures and pressures. It is generally unaffected by exposure to high temperatures. And can with stand high pressures as long as it isn't applied as a shock.
Or as long as the shock doesn't dynamically exceed it's integrity.
Clear and straightforward videos. I’ve retained more in one of your videos 20 minutes before bed last night. Than hours on other people videos. 👍
27:36 "Im really happy with how that turned out"
Nice video!
"Turning raw materials into scrap metal"..
I don't own a lathe and I'm liking this video.
Such a good teacher. Thank you in 2020,Tony.
Oh god you made a video about carbide.....now AvE will start lubing his hand and tighten the vice.
Then we can watch CARBIDE INSERTION ALL LONG!
carbide inserption
AvE is life
ave is great but at least tony knows how to focus a camera XD
That's a viSe, folks.
Fantastic video, I am envious of your machining + video making. I will have to rewatch a couple of times to pick up all the info - I am overstimmed right now. Thank you.
Your videos are preciooooous to me...precious.
Im in my vocational training as a Mechatronic right now here in germany and before it started, and i watched your videos like 2 years bevore it started. Now im just sitting at home watching those Videos in my freetime, realising how much i love metalwork 😁💕😊😊
"Man, I really like Old Tony's teaching style!" - me talking to my dog
dg diggz smart dog ya got there!🤣
His teaching is a little ruff.
27:36 "Im really happy with how that turned out"
Tony, if you had been a school teacher, I may have gone on to get a doctorate or two.
Very informative and as usual, well presented. Your time, much appreciated.
Slightly off topic but I'd like to mention that the Chinese haven't yet found a way to mix the lead/butter mixture into carbide endmills like they have with their pot metal... I mean "steel"
Tony thanks for giving people who don't normally use carbide some very useful tips such as either flood or no coolant and running higher surface speeds than they might do now. I was always taught positive rake for aluminium and cast iron. The turning tools I believe use tip pressure generally to melt the material and sweep it away.
04-03-02, or more commonly 432, is hands down the most popular (ie easiest and cheapest to find used) size, so that 848 is just silly big.
Hobbyists should be in the 332 size area really, especially if buying new (20% costs savings over 432).
The W and S are popular, but the C shape rules, since the 80 degree diamond gives you 4 cutting corners. Don't bother buying new anything not rocking that N for zero relief, since you double your cutting surfaces and besides your tool holder gets you the relief.
Buying used, try sticking to the 432 if costs are a big issue. Or just go silly with the variety if the prices are good, and you're just curious.
The audience that would most benefit from this video is the exact combination of select but non-trivial that pretty much defines the greatest potential of the internet as a whole.
Thank you for a wealth of information.
My new milling machine is on it's way to being delivered to me and I've been contemplating on taking some machining classes, UNTIL i stumbled upon this channel😂 Thanks for all of this valuable information sir!👍👍👍👍👍
"I don't know if you can see that" his most used phrase :)
Amazing to see how this is done. Man, Tony, you are doing every aspect of these vids up right! Thanks for all of this. I am Subscribed!
How do you know he wasn't sitting down the whole time? are you so priviledges as to be his neigbour with the great cryogenic storage options?
Nice video!
I have a 6" Craftsman Atlas lathe on my sailboat. Getting geared up to cruise the world and came here with tons of questions about what type cutting tools I should be taking with me. All of my questions were just answered! Thanks!!!
A very interesting video personally I enjoy the mathematics of HSS but when I feel lazy I use carbide.
Are you making/creating something or just goofing around with tools for the fun of it?
I tend to build model steam engines.
Great video- I always wondered what WNMG stood for and you answered it perfectly. So much to learn...
problem I got with these chip break tests people keep doing is that the diameter keeps changing but speed and depth of cut remains the same. it is the material removal rate that dictates the chips. all insert tooling guys include that spec on their inserts, then you just calculate proper feed and speed for the diameter of the cut you are doing, using maths somehow.
pontusieg t
pontusieg, what you're referring to is surface speed. In order to maintain a specific surface speed, as the diameter decreases, the rpm needs to increase. Depending on the grade of insert and the material to be machined, I use the formula: 315 (pi) × cutting speed in m/min ÷ diameter in mm= rpm. So... 315×180=56700, then 56700÷200=283.5 rpm.
180m/min being a conservative, continuous cutting speed in 4140 steels. its a bit late, but i hope this helps.
There will never be a time when this channel doesn't put a smile on my face. Plus it's useful and inspired me to learn machining
"A brief chat"...
*video is 30 minutes long*
Gabe Sewell thats the joke
Yea thanks
You can talk for days about carbide and still not even be close to an expert
I'd say it is actually pretty apt. When you're talking about something as in-depth as machining, 30 minutes spent talking about something as general as carbide tools, that is a pretty brief chat. I bet Tony, or any machinist, could spend hours talking more at-length about even just one type of carbide tool.
I'm a machinist by profession. I didn't watch the entire video. 30 minutes IS a "brief chat" on the subject of carbide cutting tools. If you don't have 30 minutes to spend learning about it, then you probably don't need to be anywhere near a machine tool either.
Great video Tony. I have a 1947 Logan 820 I restored. It has a 10" swing with 24" between center and it only has a 1/2 HP motor (the original 1947 motor!). After I saw this video I had to try the WNMG. The problem was, even the smallest version of this insert have holders with a 3/4" shank. So I bought the 3/4" and milled it down to 1/2". I used the insert at 1450 RPM with a 1-1/2" bar and was able to take up to about .080" a pass. It was most definitely pushing the limits of my lathe but it and .050" would be a more logical depth of cut. Anyway, if I need to tale off a lot of metal this is now my go to insert, I love it. Just a side note, a friend of mine runs a machine shop told me that I would probable would not be able to do this with a South Bend or Atlas or many other older small lathes. He said the fact that Logan has a ball bearings spindle instead of sleeve bearings makes it do much better with carbide inserts.
I go to yard sales and markets and buy old and broken files.
Its the cheapest way to get tool steel for making lathe tools
Yes, that works to get cheap tool steel, but this is not high speed steel. It will anneal and soften at a relatively low temperature. Also, lots of files are case hardened, so you may get an unevenly hardened tool unless you anneal/reharden the tool after you've ground it.
Hi Tony, this is Old Bob. excellent and very useful presentation. camera work equally great with machining. I like carbide inserts and the fact that their edge finishing has a bit more tangential aproach to the work as HSS has. Sometimes I feel that as HSS ground it's only scraping off material instead of "peeling" it off. Being from old school I used to the tangent type of "grinding tools". It could also be mentioned that carbide tools cannot take vibrations, a specially on cheap mini mills.
So, where do you get your nails done? I have subscribed in anticipation.
This is quickly becoming my favorite channel! Awesome work on the videos
Anyone ever notticed the grinding wheel brand is "This Old Tony"? 😂😂
this old tony on grinder: *CONFIRMED*
The green silicon carbide one is of the "Subscribe" brand. Lol.
Kevin Nealon's Subliminal Man would be proud.
There are small text based messages in all of his videos, little Easter eggs, there is at least one “subscribe” in every video.
Abraham that is awesome, subliminal messaging in every vid! Guys a frickin’ genius!🤣
THANK YOU for the explanation. Got a new to me old lathe with these kinds of tools and I had no idea where to start. I've run my Rockwell 14" 3hp since I was 8 (26years) with nearly all of the other tooling, now I am getting ready to turn my American Pacemaker 16"x54" on for the first time and have a better understanding of these 'weird' tools.
BTW, don't you think for one second that I can't compete with you on broken endmill prroduction. I 'm very impressive.
It's hard not to pick up a lot of great insights here, thanks for sharing and making these great videos.
Very informative! Thanks, Old Tony :D
Why is it that carbide likes to be run fast?
I believe it's because it's not as sharp as hss, and therefore needs a higher surface speed to give a good finish. As for why higher surface speed gives a better surface finish, i have no idea, but i'd like to know if someone else does.
It burnishes the surface (melts it a bit) because the carbide is not super sharp at the cutting edge. HSS shears the metal away so the sharper it gets the less tearing and the better the finish.
DrKnow65 That's not what burnishing is, but I wouldn't be surprised at all if the tool burnishes the work
It doesn't require high speeds. It simply has the capability to run much faster than hss. The higher cutting speeds are to take advantage of its high temperature hardness
chris0tube inserts yes, but not carbide in terms of the material itself
Hey buddy. I commented a few months ago about how you reminded me of my grandfather. Anyways, I'm still watching your show and I just couldn't feel more at home when I listen to you talk about this "boring" stuff. That's what my girlfriend say's, ha. Not boring at all. I recognize a smart person from a mile away and It's not wonder I found your channel. Big fan - Corbin.
I almost spit out my chocolate chip cookie while watching
I quite enjoy your stream-of-conscience-like ramblings. Excellent.
will enough duct tape, and superglue fix a broken insert?
If it breaks, just use the new edge you just got as a cutting edge. lmao