More Easy Improvements For Your Lathe and Mill

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  • Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
  • Quinn over at Blondihacks recently showed some modifications she made to her hobby lathe and mill. Here's my list of favorite mods and tweaks I've done on my own machine. If you haven't seen Quinn's video, check it out, too: • Easy Improvements For ...
    Lathe VFD Upgrade: • Lathe Variable Speed U...
    Lathe Electronic Leadscrew: • Lathe Electronic Leads...
    Chuck Key Holder: www.thingivers...
    Mill Enclosure: www.thingivers...
    2L Coolant Bottle Adapter: www.thingivers...
    *This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
    Shars AXA Quick Change Tool Post Set (eBay*): ebay.to/2SWkUQZ
    CRC SL2512 Soluble Oil (Amazon*): amzn.to/2qhWswk
    ER20 TTS Clone Toolholders (eBay*): ebay.to/2srqwaa
    Noga MC1700 Mini-Cool Kit (Amazon*): amzn.to/2qgemiM

Комментарии • 274

  • @donwright3427
    @donwright3427 4 года назад +3

    I use my 70 yr old Atlas lathe nearly every day and my mill is not much newer but with patience and a lot of skill and knowledge gained over many years I get good results. It just takes longer than using new machinery.

    • @shiro-r4m
      @shiro-r4m 4 года назад

      It's about knowing the limitations of your machine and daring to experiment to get to know the boundaries.
      I have a European Mondiale lathe that's also around 70 years old but boy can she take a cut.
      Plain bearings like in our machines are not designed to spin very fast but they are capable of taking higher loads than comparable sized roller bearings.
      The most important factor in these old machines is smart choices in tooling and workholding. High speed steel tools with a polished and agressive chip breaker can take mighty depths of cut at low feeds. I use indexable carbide too for tough materials and to get a nice surface finish but I'm at risk of slipping the belt if I run them too hard.
      For workholding, few things have the gripping power of a 4-jaw. I wish I had a collet chuck setup to try, that would be sweet I think

    • @donwright3427
      @donwright3427 4 года назад

      @@shiro-r4m Most of my work is in Stainless Steel .Belt slippage is an issue so I don't like that as it's a pain to dismantle the headstock to replace the belt.I tried on of those belts made of links and rivets but it slipped awfully.

  • @erik....
    @erik.... 4 года назад +57

    You can have a NO switch in the key holder in series with the start button that prevents you from starting the machine if the key is not in there.

    • @andrewdoherty8847
      @andrewdoherty8847 3 года назад +2

      NO switch, catch the key with your teeth.
      Seriously there is no more interesting time than testing ones reflexes with a missile at 2' (60cm). A magnet switch is a sealed alternative.

    • @typhoon2827
      @typhoon2827 2 года назад

      I've got two chuck keys...

    • @leslierhorer1412
      @leslierhorer1412 2 года назад +1

      @@typhoon2827 I have three.

    • @dave_ecclectic
      @dave_ecclectic Год назад

      You could also make a self-ejecting key, although this could be annoying for some.

  • @TacoJoe
    @TacoJoe 4 года назад

    Big thumbs up to the lathe spider - will be fabricating one of those 👍🏻

    • @TacoJoe
      @TacoJoe 4 года назад

      Great video James / you are an engineer that gets the job done / you do great work! - I especially like the jack screws for leveling /setup of your lathe- done right / you are inspiring me to similar content on my channel 👍🏻 / not sure I can match the production quality though -haha / keep it up!

  • @TAWPTool
    @TAWPTool 4 года назад +2

    Outstanding video James! I'll be using some of those same mods. Very helpful. Thanks for sharing!

  • @stephanc7192
    @stephanc7192 4 года назад

    Great video
    Thanks a lot

  • @dave_ecclectic
    @dave_ecclectic Год назад

    5:54
    I don't understand why people go to the extant to modify a wrench when they could simply add an actual nutted handle, like the one that locks the QCTP.
    Drill a hole and thread it in a chunk of stock. (Shape for ascetics).
    Drill an angled hole and thread it in the above stock. (Place stock in place to find location of handle.
    Make a handle of your choice, thread it into the above stock. (Shape for ascetics).

    • @huntereakright8988
      @huntereakright8988 Год назад

      ya, idk why anyone would wanna modify anything instead of buying something from a manufacturer

  • @kurtbilinski1723
    @kurtbilinski1723 3 года назад

    You forgot to comment on your shop apron!

  • @HanstheTraffer
    @HanstheTraffer 4 года назад

    It appears that your tail stock anti-rotation screw was not properly made in the factory. Even my little Harbor freight 7x10 has a screw with the threads turned off of the tip.

    • @georgefarsley950
      @georgefarsley950 4 года назад

      The screw with the threads turned off the tip is called a “half dog point screw”

  • @joell439
    @joell439 4 года назад

    👍😎👍

  • @Blondihacks
    @Blondihacks 4 года назад +70

    Awesome tips! I will be doing many of these now. 😀 Thanks for the shout out too! “I don’t remember what was in this bottle” slayed me. 🤣

    • @routercnc9517
      @routercnc9517 4 года назад +6

      Probably Pepsi, not sure

    • @gvet47
      @gvet47 4 года назад +4

      @@routercnc9517 Mountain Dew and it even can be used as the cutting fluid! 😉

    • @gvet47
      @gvet47 4 года назад +4

      I made a lathe bed chip guard but then had to modify it again as I could not set my home made carriage stop.

  • @PeregrineBF
    @PeregrineBF 4 года назад +9

    Given you have a VFD and the ELS, you should get a DRO. But also hook the sensors of the DRO to the for the crossfeed position to the VFD, so that the RPM will increase to keep constant tool surface speed when cutting narrower diameters. Of course you'd have to set offsets and such, but it substantially improves surface finish when facing or turning part features with widely varying diameters.

  • @peteromoe4667
    @peteromoe4667 4 года назад +13

    The best modification in my shop, is yours ELS system. 👍🏻

  • @billsmith5166
    @billsmith5166 4 года назад +39

    I always write the original contents of a bottle on it's side in really big red letters. It's never once been of any help at all.

    • @somebodyelse6673
      @somebodyelse6673 4 года назад +3

      Well, somebody has to prop up the big red sharpie market...

    • @TheBsavage
      @TheBsavage 3 года назад

      Why hasn't this labelling helped? I label everything. I even label the labels. It's redundant, but self-referencing.

  • @dalekify
    @dalekify 4 года назад +7

    Fanta! He doesn't know what was originally in that Coca-Cola bottle.
    I'm not certain, but I reckon that it might have been Fanta.

  • @rogue277
    @rogue277 3 года назад +4

    Dang, finally someone that gets it right about 'leveling'. Every guide says it has to be level (wrt gravity), but that's BS like you said. All that matters is the bed isn't twisted

  • @usethenoodle
    @usethenoodle 3 года назад +6

    I award you and Quinn with gold stars for teaching.

  • @MaraD98
    @MaraD98 4 года назад +8

    When I converted my PM25-MV to CNC, I found that tramming the spindle with regard to the table wasn't enough to produce good parts. I found that the column itself wasn't square to the table and as the head went up and down instead of the quill, the cutter was being shifted left/right and forwards/backwards resulting in oblong holes while drilling. So I created a column shim plate out of some cold rolled steel. I used a magnetic chuck to keep the steel as flat a possible while I faced it. I tried a couple of other ways to hold down the steel plate, however I found the cold rolled steel tended to warp pretty bad and I couldn't get the constant taper I needed. I used various stainless steel shims under the corners of the magnetic chuck to get the exact angles I needed (sorry but I don't own a double hinged magnetic sine plate to have done this properly). Now that the column shim plate is installed, there is no shift in X or Y axis when the head moves up and down the column, and the drilled holes are no longer elongated.

    • @pilgrimm23
      @pilgrimm23 4 года назад

      same with my Precision Mathews. Column was not quite straight.

    • @pauldavidson6321
      @pauldavidson6321 4 года назад

      I normally use cold rolled a fair bit thicker than the finished size and machine both sides to remove the surface which has a lot of tension and then machine to size .that eliminated the warping.

  • @brianwolfgram6063
    @brianwolfgram6063 3 года назад +2

    Crazy helpful video bro, but I think your 2L bottle originally had Coca Cola in it. 😂

  • @greybeard3759
    @greybeard3759 4 года назад +6

    Two things on my small lathe that were just annoying; the noisy chip panel behind the lathe and the tail stock lock.
    Automotive sound deadener on the backside of the panel cured the oil canning sound.
    The tail stock lock bugged me because it took about a full turn to unlock and have the lock plate under the ways clear enough to slide smoothly. A compression spring of sufficient length placed around the locking stud between the bottom of the tail stock and the locking plate pushes things apart with a 1/4 turn and solves that problem.

    • @amftpt
      @amftpt 4 года назад

      I'm going to add that spring to the tail stock clamp first thing tomorrow. Good idea, thanks.

    • @zacharykuhn3261
      @zacharykuhn3261 4 года назад +1

      @@amftpt I'd also recommend a cam-lock tailstock lock. Basically, you take the nut off your lock, and replace it with a piece of round stock tapped the same thread pitch. Cross drill the round stock, then drill a hole through your tailstock at the height of that cross drilled hole. Put a piece of steel bar through with an eccentric cam on the end, and attach a handle so you can rotate it. Bam. Super fast lock/unlock on your tailstock. It takes maybe a few hours to make and makes it an actual pleasure when you have reason to move your tailstock. I think the one extra step I did was a pressed brass bushing insert in the hole in my tailstock web.

  • @vahpr
    @vahpr 4 года назад +3

    Great tips James, thanks for sharing. I modeled and 3D printed lathe tool holders (similar to your chuck key holder) which hook to the backsplash. They don’t slide around, look pretty cool and are super handy. Used the same idea on the Tormach enclosure for hanging the vise handle and dead blow. And 3D printer numerous adapters for the dust collection system where nothing stock seems to fit together. Is there anything the 3D printer can’t do? 😀

  • @craigs5212
    @craigs5212 4 года назад +4

    Nice looking shop. On your lathe make a larger size nut for the tail stock and the tool post wrench will fit the tail stock as well.

  • @bobuk5722
    @bobuk5722 4 года назад +4

    I agree with Peter below. The ELS is really good. Amazing range of feed and thread pitches in both metric and imperial and very easy to use. BobUK

    • @ObviousSchism
      @ObviousSchism 4 года назад

      @Barry Manilowa Robert Hawtin could edit his post to say "I agree with Peter below (if sorted by date) or Peter above (if sorted by popularity)..."
      But there may be other Peters over the coming years who also post responses regarding the ELS, so Robert would have to edit his post again in order to be clear about which Peter he is referring to. However, I believe that there is a time limit for editing a post, so it may be that we just have to accept that Robert's post can never be truly accurate ever again.

  • @ctdbass
    @ctdbass 2 года назад +1

    I laughed WAY too hard at you "not remembering" what was originally in the Coca-Cola bottle 🤣

  • @Nour--
    @Nour-- 4 года назад +7

    "Welcome to Clough42" 😁
    "I'm James" 😡

    • @MrPatdeeee
      @MrPatdeeee 4 года назад +3

      I am pat ("pat WHO?")
      "James" (talents beyond one could describe)

  • @tecnobs3d
    @tecnobs3d 4 года назад +8

    Re the chuck key holder, add more security by adding switch connected to VFD enable. If key in place = OK // if not = NO GO
    Cheers from Sweden
    Bengt

    • @frijoli9579
      @frijoli9579 4 года назад +1

      There are many times when I jog or spin up the machine while holding the chuck key. Your idea is great for people that don't operate lathes often/regularly but having to put the key back every time I want to start the lathe would never work for me.

    • @reiniertl
      @reiniertl 3 года назад

      @@frijoli9579 That's until you forget to take it and it ruins your day or worse.

  • @thomasrupp8118
    @thomasrupp8118 Месяц назад

    As for the coolant, I always hated the soluble oil/water emulsion. It tends to form some mould, starts to smell non-appetizing after a while and being water-based causes rust. If you don't run production but only manufacture the odd small part ( as I do in my gunsmith's workshop), there's another solution (literally). Mix neat soluble cutting oil 1/10 with meths (that's methylated spirits, not the drug stuff), put it in a spray bottle, and there you go. Spray on your part and cutting tool. Works like a dream. Due to the evaporation of the spirits it cools well. Leaves only oil as a residue. The spray bottle's pump lever hooks nicely onto the chip tray, so the bottle is always handy. If you don't like the smell of the boiled spirit, try some cheap, high octane whiskey or grain liquor for the mix.
    If you want to go super safe with the lathe chuck-key, add a microswitch into the chuck-key- holder, so the machine will only start when the key is at home.

  • @mlt3258
    @mlt3258 Год назад

    Suggestion for spider. Take .25 x .75 (& 1 & 1.25 & so on) by 6-8" long. Bend at 120 degree, then weld same stock (1/2 OAL) weld on at 120 degree. Mill / grind parallel. Put that behind your part. It will spin, but can not fall out.

  • @derfnoname8570
    @derfnoname8570 4 года назад +1

    You chat about your RPM meter and your electronic lead screw system, where can I see these projects?
    Fred Madsen

  • @typhoon2827
    @typhoon2827 2 года назад

    I'm guessing machinists protected their ways loooooong before even Stephan's grandpa was conceived. Machining existed before the internet. Who knew?

  • @chuckhuff7123
    @chuckhuff7123 Год назад

    You know you can go out and buy wrenches anywhere, standard and metric. So why are you buying them online and waiting to get them? You're paying too much for them to😢.😮anyway.

  • @brandontscheschlog
    @brandontscheschlog 4 года назад +1

    Cool mods. The bed adjustment system is cool but your loosing a lot of rigidity. I have a comparable lathe and tried this same similar setup and found that the bed would twist a few thou with very minimal pressure. Just traversing the carriage from one end to the threw it out .003". I fixed this by mounted it to a 3/4" steel plate spanning from one end of the bed to the other and used machine epoxy to level it. Try putting a dial indicator from the bed to the table and watch how much flex is actually occurring. Thanks for posting! I enjoy your content.

  • @TheBsavage
    @TheBsavage 3 года назад

    I painted my chuck key fluorescent orange and then put a little holder near the lathe's warning stickers. Thus my brain has become conditioned to seeing orange in a single spot. If there's orange anywhere but that one spot, like on the chuck because the key is stuck in there, something is amiss. Now if someone could only invent a key that is as strong as steel, yet soft as foam. "How do you know leaving parallels in the lathe chuck and then spinning it up is a bad idea?" I'm not suggesting I'm a sheep blindly following orders by asking you this question, nor am I suggesting that I think the reason is a mystery. IMO the answer is a "duh." It's the same answer why you don't leave the chuck key in the chuck: it hurts when it's propelled through your body by the lathe. Plus the parallel will get soiled by blood, tissue, bone, & possibly brain on its journey to the far side of the work-room through your head..The most significant your video is doing for me is making me want a bigger, better lathe. Now if only I had the money. It's too bad they pay for blood anymore. I could sell mine for cash if it wasn't so cruddy that nobody'd want it. If you don't trust your air ratchet you need a new air ratchet. You spend enough on that electronic threading lead-screw. Air-tools are dirt-cheap by comparison.

  • @erickvond6825
    @erickvond6825 2 года назад

    Funny that you mentioned Blondie Hacks because I found your channel through her's. Good times...

  • @CapnCrusty
    @CapnCrusty 4 года назад +2

    I used a 1L PE squeeze bottle for my reservoir and I just cut the feed tubing and pushed it onto the dispenser nozzle and it works fine. I didn't like the sloppy mess in my table after a milling job so I took the right end plate off the table, drilled and threaded a through hole at the table floor level and installed brass tube fittings so that I could add a return tube back to my reservoir, mounted below the table. I tilted my mill slightly so that everything runs to the hole and the liquid clears by gravity alone after a job. A piece of filter material in the return tube blocks any metal bits from getting back into the reservoir. This worked well too but I've since upgraded to a mister with an independent fluid valve and I reduce my coolant flow so that no liquid builds up in the table but my tools stay cool to the touch and the return system now stays mostly dry.

  • @chuckhuff7123
    @chuckhuff7123 Год назад

    Grand you, these small lathes and mini mills are cheaper to buy than the industrial counterpart larger lathes. But we still are paying a large amount of money on some of these Chinese made machines. That being said, they need to be made to work correctly from the factory. If not, send them back to China! That's the 😮 those people over there know their making inferior workmanship on their machines 😮. Ether makes a machine that works right, or let someone else who can.😮

  • @waynep343
    @waynep343 4 года назад +1

    at 8:33 your dog tip cap screw for the tail stock spindle. you may want to cut another half thread off and under cut the dog tip slightly so the dog tip rides just barely inside the keyway..not at the top surface of the keyway.. so it can't raise a burr as you exert torque on the spindle with big drills..
    at 6:34 your tool post top nut.. machine a taller version. like a coupling nut. machine off all but the bottom inch of hex.. where the wrench will live.. the upper part is smooth so you can lift the wrench without it coming all the way off to get a new grab on the nut.. but.. create this new nut tall enough that you can create a cap nut to go in that has a hex or double D shape on the flange OD.. and a drilled and tapped hole for some kind of camera mount.. easily allowing you to mount a camera on top of the tool post. one might modify a air hose quck connect plug to screw into the top of the nut.. and a plug for the end of the coupler to mount a camera bracket on... allowing a crazy quick disconnect camera mount that won't obstruct the wrench removal for more than 2 seconds. might need to look at Double hex drivers and a double hex bolt to fit in the coupler so you can index the coupler on the double hex bit on the top of the plug.. so it does not swivel.. you could also.. change one coupler ball to a larger diameter.. and dimple the groove on the plug.. so you could index the camera angle in a second by pulling the collar up.
    on your mill quill bolt. create a broach to punch a 8mm square hole thru some grade 8 nuts. so you are not wearing the tips of the square drive.. but the cheap grade 8 nuts using a conventional socket.. or even an adapter you make to live on the quill bolt top.. when i have a bunch of holes to tap in hard places.. i drive a properly sized hex nut on my tap square drive ends so i can get a better bite on it with a wrench. i used to fix cars a lot. i.imgur.com/Vv09FT1.jpg

  • @millomweb
    @millomweb 3 года назад

    Easy improvements for you lathe & mill....
    Like most of us, I don't have a 3D printer in my pocket ! - so that's a terrible start for 'easy' !

  • @wk7060
    @wk7060 7 месяцев назад +1

    Really like your chuck spider.

  • @TimmyKlankey
    @TimmyKlankey 8 месяцев назад

    Just started watching your stuff, awesome. Trying to start my own little hobby set up, any suggestions on how well you like your mill?

  • @Levisgil47
    @Levisgil47 Год назад

    Hello,
    Are you somtimes missing having a bigger spindle bore for you work?
    Thanks for your video

  • @SunsetWingman
    @SunsetWingman 2 года назад

    When you say MIC 6 tooling plate, it makes me wish there was a video just going over some common grades of tooling metals I'm going to come across so I don't look like an idiot at the metal yard when they ask me what I want.

  • @thomashouben3177
    @thomashouben3177 7 месяцев назад

    Which holder/quick changer do you use here?
    Seems like a useful addition...

  • @accuratealloys
    @accuratealloys 3 года назад +1

    Maybe Grizzly should incorporate these common sense modifications into their products.

  • @richardpetrovic8941
    @richardpetrovic8941 7 месяцев назад

    how many parallel plate you have 😂 I never need something like that - exist easiest method, thing about it

  • @tomsmith3045
    @tomsmith3045 Год назад +1

    I love these ideas. Only think I'd change, is if you're not sure if your cnc mill is going to launch a part or tool out, maybe swap out the coraplast and shower curtain for some 1/8" polycarbonate. Quite a bit more expensive, but also much more likely to catch a flying metal part.

  • @ligius3
    @ligius3 4 года назад +2

    How do you know it's a bad thing to leave a parallel inside the chuck and spin it up?

    • @bobuk5722
      @bobuk5722 4 года назад

      Ligius Ah ha! James left an example of what happened in one of his videos ..... BobUK

  • @peirob
    @peirob 4 года назад +1

    As always James, outstanding video. What’s funny is that most of your improvements are also mine. I started with a lathe way cover made of leather (inspired by Stefan Gotteswinter) and I moved to two branded sheets of metal overlaping. I also have the habit to hook systematically the chuck key on a plastic (PMMA) support bolted on the lathe structure. I would really appreciate some protection around my small Sixis S101 mill, however, there are cranks everywhere (it is not CNCed) and the few attempts to install screens where not successful at all. I also made a spindle block, but I shall confess that your project was my source of inspiration 😀 many thanks.

  • @jerryjordan1448
    @jerryjordan1448 Год назад

    I hope that this text finds you Question I have look for the motor that was installed on the 602 lathe they informed me that this motor was discontinued.
    Is there any other place were I can get this motor or one like it thanks.

  • @tobiasripper4124
    @tobiasripper4124 4 года назад +1

    if i had a shop i'd be using all of these tips. but hey! many ppl start a shop with no tips whatsoever. im lucky to have learned so many things before hand!

  • @windsoruk
    @windsoruk 4 года назад +2

    Love the key holder! I'll remix for my lathe which has a larger 'turn over' at the top of the chip guard.

  • @korhankor5
    @korhankor5 Год назад

    4:32 Do you have diagram (draw) of the lathe spider ? I will print it on 3D printer

  • @eemonster
    @eemonster 2 года назад

    u should implement dithering on lead screw control box

  • @mxcollin95
    @mxcollin95 4 года назад +1

    This is the first video I’ve seen of yours and really enjoyed seeing your improvements. 👍

  • @HouseMadeUS
    @HouseMadeUS 4 года назад

    I'm restoring an old Logan 400 lathe and I have dreams of buying the lathe you have. Glad I found your channel. Cheers!

  • @rogerprice735
    @rogerprice735 Год назад

    What vfd system did you use want to do this to my pm1022

  • @5tr41ghtGuy
    @5tr41ghtGuy 4 года назад +1

    I also have a G0602, so I've run into the same issues as you. Something you didn't mention is the clamp ring at the base of the compound; it is very flimsy, and the main culprit of chatter or worse when machining steel. You can realize a lot of improvement by simply using the clamp ring spun 180 degrees, but you won't be able to see the protractor. I have designed and built a new clamp ring which is much stiffer while still allowing a clear view of the protractor. It is stiff enough that I can part off steel using a 1/8" parting blade with no chatter at all.

    • @arborvitian
      @arborvitian 4 года назад

      I have a six-bolt mod on mine, and my gibs cranked down (I need to drill and tap a couple holes for locks like the mill table uses), but I'm still fighting major chatter problems parting off steel. I broke three HSS blades and 7 carbide tips, all making one single cut.

  • @stefanmedlicott4948
    @stefanmedlicott4948 2 года назад

    Great tips. Now you got me thinking…….

  • @HanstheTraffer
    @HanstheTraffer 4 года назад +1

    Are you familiar with Dan Gelbart's videos? He has some really unique and ingenious ideas and mods for his machinery. Truly an amazing guy. Built his own precision lathe with air bearings.

    • @xenonram
      @xenonram 4 года назад

      @Barry Manilowa is got a lot of money, but he's definitely not a billionaire.

    • @HanstheTraffer
      @HanstheTraffer 4 года назад +1

      @Barry Manilowa Envy much?

  • @FlickFreaks
    @FlickFreaks 2 года назад

    I’ve had a G0602 for several years now. I’m very glad I found your channel.

  • @prodigy750
    @prodigy750 3 года назад

    I’d imagine Coke was in the bottle originally lol

  • @guitarchitectural
    @guitarchitectural 2 года назад

    do you have any material that goes over your lathe stand construction? I'm a woodworker dipping my toes into machine work and the grizzly lathe is the first thing I'm getting - i was hoping I could make a stand out of doubled-up 3/4" plywood and fill it with drawers. Would love some details on how you built your bench! (and also, would you change anything - more space in front, or behind, etc)

    • @Clough42
      @Clough42  2 года назад

      The construction is similar to the miter bench featured on The New Yankee Workshop several decades ago. It's a 3/4" plywood cabinet carcass, with a half-lapped grid of 2x4's on top, a sheet of 3/4" plywood, and a sheet of 1/4" Masonite hardboard, wrapped with oak edging.

  • @sonogenio
    @sonogenio Год назад

    Veramente complimenti 😳 bye bye Deaf Italy Turin 👍

  • @HasanRedzicHaskoscustoms
    @HasanRedzicHaskoscustoms 4 года назад +1

    I like how he looks like he spaces out while talking lol... but love the channel. Keep the videos coming

  • @anrmanufacturingltd4436
    @anrmanufacturingltd4436 4 года назад +1

    Some great advice, thanks for sharing.

  • @stevewhite315
    @stevewhite315 3 года назад

    When you say spider can never come out....

  • @Deadwindshadow
    @Deadwindshadow 2 года назад

    How did you get such a nice/shiny finish on that 3D print?

  • @robertpeters9438
    @robertpeters9438 3 месяца назад

    Make a chuck key holder that detects a magnet glued to your lathe key so that the lathe has an interlock requiring the key to be sensed before spinning up!

    • @robertpeters9438
      @robertpeters9438 3 месяца назад

      It can be a magnetic microswitch or more exotic like a hall sensor and circuit.

  • @lesthompson5907
    @lesthompson5907 4 года назад +1

    is it ready for sail yet t& how much ? Les England .

  • @HowToRestoration
    @HowToRestoration Год назад

    Nice my bro

  • @dondavis4920
    @dondavis4920 Год назад

    I AM IN THE PROCESS OF ASSEMBLING AN ELS ON MY MINI LATHE. ON MY ELS BOOST V2.1 MFG 9/2019 THE 8 PIN U2 I THINK IT IS CALLED DCRON IS MISSING. IT SEEMS TO BE ON ALL OF THE ONES I SEE PICTURED? IS THIS IMPORTANT? THANKS DON DAVIS

    • @Clough42
      @Clough42  Год назад

      There should be a card in the package explaining the missing chip. It isn't used, so it won't affect operation.

  • @witzed1
    @witzed1 3 года назад

    I have a question that is never addressed. When the lathe is originally delivered or when modifications (line the levelers) are made how is the machine moved for access? These are heavy machines so how are these assaults on gravity accomplished? Even dissembling the machine leaves the ways intact and have to be the heaviest part.

    • @Clough42
      @Clough42  3 года назад +1

      I lifted it with a hydraulic engine hoist (www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html), a load leveler (www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html) and a couple of straps (www.harborfreight.com/6-12-ft-2000-lbs-capacity-lifting-sling-60609.html). I wrapped one strap around the spindle, behind the chuck, and the other around the tailstock end of the frame, looping it through the frame in a way it couldn't slide. I had to wrap the straps around multiple times to make it hang close to level. If you do this, make sure to use wood blocks as needed to keep the straps from bending the leadscrew.

  • @FunctionalPrintFriday
    @FunctionalPrintFriday Год назад

    Love that 3-d printed 2-liter cap for coolant.

  • @R2_D3
    @R2_D3 4 года назад +1

    @17:55 Uhmmm Coca Cola? LoL

  • @johnnycab8986
    @johnnycab8986 3 года назад

    Hi Clough42, did you check the runout on the Ebay ER20 collets? Do you think 0.002 runout is ok for manual and CNC on a small machine like the PM25 or G704 (I bought 10 of them, 5 of them are 0.001" or less runout, I'm wondering if I should return the ones that are 0.002" - 0.0025" runout.

  • @ronburr5937
    @ronburr5937 10 месяцев назад

    What kind of lathe do you have?

  • @BuildSomethingAuto
    @BuildSomethingAuto 2 года назад

    Oh man that 3D printed chuck key holder is brilliant. I'm going to have to steal that. Right now I just have a 2x4 sitting on the front of the lathe with a bunch of holes drilled in it holding my chuck keys and wrenches and so forth much less elegant 🤣

  • @JonathanBydendyk
    @JonathanBydendyk 2 года назад

    Great channel, subscribed.

  • @pilgrimm23
    @pilgrimm23 4 года назад

    thank you, great tips. I also have a G0602 but my chuck holder is on the front. I did not buy the stand rather I put mine on an old Craftsman cabinet I have. I had a plywood flat the lathe sits on and, on the edge of that, I screwed down an extremely flat box end 3/4 hex wrench I found at a flea market. Cut off all but the end then drill two holes. its a good sold steel holder for the chuck key. now your under chuck chip tray I am about to build just like you have out of a old microwave casing. FINE TIPS> Keep'em coming!!

  • @ramsay19481
    @ramsay19481 4 года назад

    Chuck Key Basic Rule of Thumb... If your hand is NOT on it, it does NOT belong in the chuck........

  • @mttr4003
    @mttr4003 2 года назад

    Love your channel James up here in the great white north.
    Slightly off subject but I have a CX706 lathe and having issue with the always apron leaking oil. I can't seem to find were the leak is coming from but there is always some drops on the bottom of the apron. Wonder if you had an issue with that or anyone else on this channel might have a solution.
    Again great channel learn a lot for it.

  • @firearmsstudent
    @firearmsstudent 4 года назад +1

    LOL I'll tell all of my enemies :D Good video!

  • @1352cc
    @1352cc Год назад

    Great videos! I am late getting to them. Curious what your opinion is on the lathe and that size after years of use? Thinking about a PM1022 or something of similar size.

  • @terryhillyer529
    @terryhillyer529 4 года назад

    You said that a 12 point 6mm socket fit over the G0704 8mm square head drawbar. Did you mean to say a 12 point 9mm socket? I have a Craftsman 43367 offset ratchet (combo 9mm and 10mm) that I bought years specifically for the G0704. I probably paid about $10 for it, but I’m not even sure this Craftsman tool is even available even more. Harbor Freight 68833 is a four piece metric offset wrench set for $9.99

  • @mpetersen6
    @mpetersen6 3 года назад

    You miss one on the lathe. If you have a gear head lathe it's easy to take out one of the top cover screws and take yourself to the home depot, Lowe's or wherever and pick up an el cheapo LED desk lamp. And the do what you have to go to to mount the light. Even in a well lit shop you will find that often your head will be casting a shadow right where you need to see. A second one is if you are doing really small work. Say you are an HO scale model Railroader. And you are into scratch building locomotives or any other activity that involves cutting small diameters or fine pitch treads is some sort of magnifier. I've seen from the ones you wear to full blown optical ones. But something.
    The chip cover on the carriage. I think it's better to have the outside go up than down.

  • @briangc1972
    @briangc1972 3 года назад

    @14:40 There are 8 pt sockets readily available for square nuts. You don't need to keep using that loose fitting 12 pt socket. Buy the correct tool for the job.

  • @andrewdoherty8847
    @andrewdoherty8847 Год назад

    I bought a German branded drill/mill that everyone has. I built a steel stand with a deck lean left to right, to drain the coolant.
    Some drawers from stock were fitted into the base for tooling.
    At someone's suggestion the vice is mounted at the left end. I am this moment modifying a trailer hitch. I was able to use either the vice or the top without shifting anything. In due course (haven't we heard that before) I will add a backbar to the rear of the table so that the vice will be automatically square on when remounting.
    Because my shop is very dusty (working on reducing that to just dusty!) I put a roof on my box. That keeps the machine clean.

  • @brittonstudios
    @brittonstudios 3 года назад

    hey @clough42, I tested a 6mm 12pt on a Grizzly Mill per the tip at @14:30 and It seems a 9mm works, not a 6mm for the 8mm square. Can you make a note so that others can order the correct one? Thanks for the tips!

  • @garystone9086
    @garystone9086 3 года назад

    Great video! I hope you meant a 9mm 12 point socket would fit the 8mm drawbar on the G0759. I’m sure the 6mm won’t fit.

  • @userwl2850
    @userwl2850 4 года назад

    At 16.00 that's a great idea. First time I've seen it.

  • @paulkupperman7049
    @paulkupperman7049 Год назад

    I'm a little behind the times, since I just found the channel, but I had a thought while watching the tool post grinder series. How about a hook/holder for your air ratchet on the front of the mill enclosure? That would keep you from having to go down to the floor for it. One for the air gun might be handy as well, and maybe even the vice handle.

  • @diepurpledino
    @diepurpledino 4 года назад

    Coroplast has gone up a bit, bought a 10pk of black & white special order from HD for like $110. Closest equivalent now is $155/10pk. Bought it for a Hackaday Prize entry project heat exchanger but all those remnants are going to be put to use now!

  • @ChrisSudlik
    @ChrisSudlik 2 года назад

    my college shop had chuck keys with springs so they physically could not be left in the chuck. Which I thought was brilliant and super cool, except the chuck for one of them had a spring that was WAY too strong and despite being a bit of a gym rat at the time I could not tighten or loosen the chuck because I couldn't compress the spring enough

  • @rubendiaz363
    @rubendiaz363 3 года назад

    THANK YOU Sir for sharing your knowledge and tips! NOW, I need to start figuring out how to operate my used mill and lathe... LOL

  • @howardhiggins9641
    @howardhiggins9641 3 года назад

    I really like the chuck spider.
    Not that people wouldn't notice, but that is a 12 point box end wrench and not a 6 point for the tool post holder..
    I like the way your feet actually bolted into the underside of the tail stock. The 5" Emco-Maier I had 20 years ago only attached to the chip pan, which was just not rigid enough.

  • @danielschibel7549
    @danielschibel7549 4 года назад

    I have a 5c indexer head that all of a sudden got really tight to index around. I watched a couple videos on here but they didn't cover my issue. I took it apart using some of the guidance on here, then got to the point on how to get the main indexer head out, but no luck. It just showed the fella with it all apart, cleaned and ready to go back together. I made sure that all the 24 set screws were not causing the problem, cleaned everything. I just can't separate the plate from the internal sleeve that holds the collet. If I can get that apart for cleaning, then I'm sure it will take care of the problems. I noticed on some newer china brands have an extra hole drilled in the side with grease/oil fitting. Is this something that you can help with? Is the plate pressed fit or tapered? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am enjoying your professional presentation.

  • @jakespede8522
    @jakespede8522 2 года назад

    Most Excellent!! I just acquired the same mill and was going to bolt it to the floor....But not no more. Thanks again for show the easy improvements are a lot of just common sense events.

  • @incubatork
    @incubatork 4 года назад

    The square nut on the drawbar on my METRIC mill is 3/8, I had some old worn out 3/8 sockets so I cut of the socket parts from 2 and welded the 3/8 drive squares together cutoff to cuttoff and now i use a 3/8 drive butterfly air wrench to tighten/slacken the drawbar.

  • @Tensquaremetreworkshop
    @Tensquaremetreworkshop 4 года назад

    Chuck key- I just put an old magnet on the frame. Another for the tailstock chuck key.

  • @melgross
    @melgross 3 года назад

    One way to straighten out a small piece in the chuck is to put a drill chuck in the tail stock. Bring the tail stock close. Put the part in the lathe chuck and tighten very slightly, just enough to hold it. Then bring the jaws of the drill chuck inside the chuck. Bring the chuck to the work and using the tail stock hand wheel, push the part into the lathe chuck until it’s where you need it. As long as the part is somewhere close to parallel, the works very well. Then just tighten the lathe chuck.
    Alternatively, you can get a Morse taper and make a large flat and put it on the end. Make it perpendicular to the work, and you can use that for larger pieces.
    This isn’t absolutely perfect, but for most work, it’s more than good enough. But for really precise work I have a tool with replaceable parallels of different depths that fit into the lathe chuck will keep the part accurate to 0.001”. But it’s mostly not needed.
    Smart idea with the spindle lock, but never forget when it’s locked! Maybe something that will slip or break away if the motor is mistakenly turned on.

  • @jsteifel
    @jsteifel 4 года назад

    funny, I made this bottle I shaped it this way so.... very funny. pretty dry sense of humor.