A nicely presented, designed and implemented project - you will never regret the time and effort you expended on this self-act! A real boon. I made one similar but when I converted my mill to CNC I then made a control box which could be used to drive any of the 3 axis stepper motors - constant torque at any speed - a great improvement!
Not only does it show all your skills & abilities it is also one of the best videos & explanations of how to overcome one's problems. I'm gona update my mill now. Thanks for the info.
Agree. Another idea would be a spring that keeps the motor disengaged requiring operator input. Your suggestion is preferable while mine is a bit easier and cheaper albeit more of a pain long term.
i would put an endstopon each site configuered as an NC and then put the power on there so that if it hits the end it shuts the power down to the circuit, in the end it is just a security option, normally you standing besides it when working on it but it can happen that you are looking at something else the longer you use the feature
I was thinking the same thing. My shop bought power feed has a 2 way switch and 2 end stops. And when the switch touches one of the end stop it stops the motor.
Hi Phil, I used your idea to build my powerfeed, but I made some adaptations and it worked perfectly, thanks for the idea, of all it is one of the simplest and most functional.
Absolutely excellent!! Very impressive! This is some top notch quality engineuity! It looks so good and professional. The average person would without question think that was a factory component. This project is definitely something to be proud of!
I like your videos a great deal. Not only are your projects worthy, your approach to them is admirable. What's more you have good sense in what I believe are called production values. Thank you.
Excellent video... I have watched at least 50 videos trying to find the information you give in this video.. I wanted to use this same type of setup utilizing a windshield wiper motor on my metal lathe feed, this answered "every" concern and question I had and gave me some great design ideas to boot.
simple and cheap, your going to put the shops out of business if you keep giving us these ideas, also well explained with proper video footage explaining the whole process. Loved it.
Some detents on the shafts and a spring plunger replacing one of those socket screws that engages with the slots seem like a nice way to lock this assembly into engaged/disengaged positions
Very neat work. With a coat of paint on those chip guards it would pretty much look like a manufacturers option. I built something similar for my little antique lathe. I used a 12v car wiper motor that seems to be happy enough running at 18v (It's been running this voltage for over a year now and hasn't burnt out/caught fire yet. :) ). I didn't bother with a clutch as I can just twist it's adjuster 3 or 4 turns to slacken off and remove it's toothed drive belt. I used a wiper motor because they have 2 sets of windings in them for high and low speeds. Coupled with the PWM speed controller it gives me a brilliant feed speed range. One idea I had, that you might find useful, was to extend the direction switches wires and run them through the "Normally closed" side of a couple microswitches. With some mounting brackets you could use them as limit switches that only break the circuit for feeding in that direction (ie, you can still reverse the feed direction and back the bed away from the triggered switch using the powered feed). In your case it would prevent any chance of running out of bed travel and stalling your motor. In my case I want to do it to help me stop trashing ceramic cutter inserts. If I'm turning a long bar at a VERY slow feed, I'm not adverse to wandering a little way away from my lathe to do something else for a couple of minutes. Sometimes I've got distracted and had to jump back to the lathe when I've heard that familiar Click click click CLACK CRUNCH" sound of lathe tool hitting chuck Jaws !!! :D
Great design Phil, it's the most practical X axis feed I've seen so far - simple but solid and compact. I used the same motor by the look of it, 24V 45W 220 RPM , on a Z axis feed for my mini mill and it works fine for travel and 'mill turning'. Thanks for sharing, Mike
Very nicely done, I did much the same thirty years ago, getting into my own shop and not able to afford to buy the professional setup. I really like the "clutch" connect/disconnect. That's almost as easy to use as the designed for power feed. Thanks for sharing this!
Great video, as usual! I don't know why, but no matter how bad my day is, I can watch one of your project vids & the troubles of the day just seem to disappear. No matter how many times I watch one of your vids, I always learn something. Keep posting them, I'm gonna keep watching them! 😃👍
Your stuff is always so interesting and cool. I bought an Opti BF20 mill this year. I need a power feed and you have given me a lot of inspiration. Great content Phil. Dan from Australia.
I really like this project as it covers different areas of manufacturing from mechanical to electrical work. The workflow is presented in a very calm way. I just enjoyed watching the video. Thanks for the effort.The only idea that came to my mind when watching the final operation was that it might be wise to install the limit switches so that the motor will stop automatically when the end position is reached.
This was really awesome to watch . I recently aquired a lathe that has no cross feed and i think of implementing something similar . Well done ! It was carried out with great prescision and care to work just awesome .
A nice solution to your problem It turned out very good, you could also add some limit switches to it as well. I might do something similar to my mill having seen your video. Thanks.
Awesome design! I would change out the screw in the motor sliding mechanism, with a ballbearing, a spring and a grubscrew. and make two divots in the slot at each end of the sliding part, for that satisfying snap-action ;)
Nicely done! If you add another power feed to one of the other axis, check out the motors that are used to move electric seats. They cost about $12 to $15 USD and are very similar to the wind shield wiper motors. I think I'm going to be adapting some of your ideas to my mill, Thanks.
tip: to make the display even easier to read, add a smoked piece of acrylic (like from a dead alarm clock) such that the display sections that are off don't show up as 'white' to your eye. Increases contrast a tonne.
I did the same thing on my 1936 atlas 10d lathe which was made without a power cross feed. i i used 12v wiper motor (free) and 6 amp pwm with reverse (less than $10.00}, cheap and works great, good vid thanx
Very enjoyable to watch. Was just asking myself how one would somehow insert the turbo switch somewhere into the PWM circuit when you came up with the solution of bypassing the potentiometer. Brilliant idea, and ex post so simple and obvious..
I borrowed you design and built something similar for my Benchmaster mill. I used a Bodine gear drive. it works great and has really been an arm saver. Thanks.
Just a transverse feed motor and a tool feed motor and then adding a CNC controller can make it into a brilliant mill. Excellent video, thanks. (Although they would need to be a bit more upscale than wiper motors) ;)
Very nice. Probably It will be more ergonomic if you put a connecting bar under the table (if possible) to be able to engage and disengage the motor from the side of the handwheel.
Hi Phil, Very nice work, I have the factory power feed on my SX4 which has developed an intermittent fault.....sometimes it doesn’t work, other times it’s fine.....problem is the fault is getting more frequent, now there is a solution! Cheers
I've been thinking about making my own drive but was stuck on the clutch mechanism, thanks to you I now know how easy to do it. Just like you have. I hope you don't mind me using your idea.. Cheers.
Hi Philly, great video. I love your calm and down to earth comments, which take into account that most of your viewers probably don't have a workshop (yet). So I really appreciate how you break down the process for noobs. On that note: I'd like to know more about how you measure the cuts at the mill. Like, how do you reference a certain point or plane once the part is on the mill? Thanks a lot, this is top quality content. I became a patreon, because the entertainment and educational value of your videos should be rewarded.
Hey, thanks for the support! As for your question, you can kind of think as the mill table as a coordinate system. You usually start by picking a "zero point", which can be anything, but for square/rectangular parts, people will usually use one of the corners of the part as their zero. Then you zero out your measuring system, the old school ways is to use the dials on the handwheels which are marked according to how far the table moves in relation to how you turn the handwheel. So for example if one rotation of the handwheel moves the table by 10mm, then you know that a half rotation would be 5mm and so on. You can zero these dials at any position and then look at the scale and/or count the rotations to move the table to a defined position. As you can imagine this requires a lot of time, skill and patience, so nowadays most modern machines have what's called a digital readout which does all this work for you. It just shows you the coordinates on a digital display by measuring where the table moves. So in this case, you would zero out the DRO when your corner is directly under the spindle (there's tools to determine this, called edge finders, which can use to "touch off" on the part). Then all your coordinates show 0 and now if you wanted to drill a hole, let's say, 20mm from the edge, you'd just move that axis until the display says 20mm and that's it. Of course things get more complex depending on what you do but that's the basic concept. Same thing for the lathe, except here it's the tool that moves instead of the workpiece, but you measure it the same way.
Outstanding! I've been looking for guidance in making a power feed for my Benchmaster mill. This, with minor modifications, would work very well for me. Thank you for the excellent video.
Nice, clean upgrade without commercial extras that most hobby users never use. Have seeen that some react on your gloves. Me too, but I,d never use medical/nitrit gloves as their fingertips very easily get winded around rotating components( thankfully I reached the STOP button in time). Best regards.
Hi Phil, just found your channel through a recommendation from one of my subscribers. Excellent job, I will be adding power feed to my X axis soon so I may follow this route. Well done. Subbed. Cheers, Jon
Very well built 👍😁👍. Thanks for the explanation. I've been looking into steppers as well as these but it's difficult to know if they'll have enough torque for my needs. Great video man, you've got my sub for sure 😊. Cheers!
Phil, great video as always. What about using a solenoid to engage and disengage the drive motor? Electronic door lock, (DC) fuel cutoff solenoid,(AC) or through shaft solenoid would work perfectly I believe. Anyway, just a suggestion to an already great build.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
MOST people don't learn from their own mistakes, and virtually never learn from the mistakes of others.
Nice video.
Excellent result Phil. I love the clutch mechanism. Nice and simple, but it works great.
Brilliant ! You have a very effective presentation style; your unhidden “learning opportunities” are hugely valuable to many. Great work.
A nicely presented, designed and implemented project - you will never regret the time and effort you expended on this self-act! A real boon. I made one similar but when I converted my mill to CNC I then made a control box which could be used to drive any of the 3 axis stepper motors - constant torque at any speed - a great improvement!
Very clever and efficient design! Simple, effective, low-cost and reasonable reliability. Another great build, Phil.
Nice clever solid design man......you never dissapoint.......lovin the keyway broach. Congratulations on the new place look forward to seeing it
Incredibly nice integration of the powerfeed whilst maintaining the original function, great job!
This is Absolutely the slickest diy build i've seen for this application!!!!
Not only does it show all your skills & abilities it is also one of the best videos & explanations of how to overcome one's problems. I'm gona update my mill now. Thanks for the info.
Saturday morning breakfast watching yet another therapeutic video from Mr Vandelay of beautiful engineering and inspirational talent...great stuff!
awesome job, just need to add some end stops, these could be added to the directional switch circuit to cut power when it reaches the end of travel.
Agree. Another idea would be a spring that keeps the motor disengaged requiring operator input. Your suggestion is preferable while mine is a bit easier and cheaper albeit more of a pain long term.
i would put an endstopon each site configuered as an NC and then put the power on there so that if it hits the end it shuts the power down to the circuit, in the end it is just a security option, normally you standing besides it when working on it but it can happen that you are looking at something else the longer you use the feature
I was thinking the same thing. My shop bought power feed has a 2 way switch and 2 end stops. And when the switch touches one of the end stop it stops the motor.
Hi Phil, I used your idea to build my powerfeed, but I made some adaptations and it worked perfectly, thanks for the idea, of all it is one of the simplest and most functional.
Absolutely excellent!! Very impressive! This is some top notch quality engineuity! It looks so good and professional. The average person would without question think that was a factory component. This project is definitely something to be proud of!
Outstanding. Rapids and all, well done sir.
First class work and video , you have a talent, no none stop talking, just to the point well done.
Wow, great build in all aspects. Great design, great fab, great fit and finish, very nice!
I like your videos a great deal. Not only are your projects worthy, your approach to them is admirable. What's more you have good sense in what I believe are called production values. Thank you.
That was excellent work. People like the idea of wiper motors. I made two videos of them and one of them was my most popular video.
Excellent video... I have watched at least 50 videos trying to find the information you give in this video..
I wanted to use this same type of setup utilizing a windshield wiper motor on my metal lathe feed, this answered "every" concern and question I had and gave me some great design ideas to boot.
simple and cheap, your going to put the shops out of business if you keep giving us these ideas, also well explained with proper video footage explaining the whole process. Loved it.
Very well done from start to finish. You are gifted.
Some detents on the shafts and a spring plunger replacing one of those socket screws that engages with the slots seem like a nice way to lock this assembly into engaged/disengaged positions
Very neat work. With a coat of paint on those chip guards it would pretty much look like a manufacturers option.
I built something similar for my little antique lathe. I used a 12v car wiper motor that seems to be happy enough running at 18v (It's been running this voltage for over a year now and hasn't burnt out/caught fire yet. :) ). I didn't bother with a clutch as I can just twist it's adjuster 3 or 4 turns to slacken off and remove it's toothed drive belt. I used a wiper motor because they have 2 sets of windings in them for high and low speeds. Coupled with the PWM speed controller it gives me a brilliant feed speed range.
One idea I had, that you might find useful, was to extend the direction switches wires and run them through the "Normally closed" side of a couple microswitches. With some mounting brackets you could use them as limit switches that only break the circuit for feeding in that direction (ie, you can still reverse the feed direction and back the bed away from the triggered switch using the powered feed). In your case it would prevent any chance of running out of bed travel and stalling your motor. In my case I want to do it to help me stop trashing ceramic cutter inserts. If I'm turning a long bar at a VERY slow feed, I'm not adverse to wandering a little way away from my lathe to do something else for a couple of minutes. Sometimes I've got distracted and had to jump back to the lathe when I've heard that familiar Click click click CLACK CRUNCH" sound of lathe tool hitting chuck Jaws !!! :D
What an excellent video. It's so useful to hear your thinking as you design it. Really excellent.
Nice upgrade, good design, professional workmanship, great video! Thumbs up!
Very elegant design. Thank you for taking the time to make a video.
What an outstanding video and build. Your amazing and must stay awake most nights thinking about things to build,
CAD program and all. Loved it Phil.
Definitely one my favorite designs for this I've seen!
Great design Phil, it's the most practical X axis feed I've seen so far - simple but solid and compact. I used the same motor by the look of it, 24V 45W 220 RPM , on a Z axis feed for my mini mill and it works fine for travel and 'mill turning'.
Thanks for sharing, Mike
Very nicely done, I did much the same thirty years ago, getting into my own shop and not able to afford to buy the professional setup. I really like the "clutch" connect/disconnect. That's almost as easy to use as the designed for power feed. Thanks for sharing this!
Great video, as usual! I don't know why, but no matter how bad my day is, I can watch one of your project vids & the troubles of the day just seem to disappear. No matter how many times I watch one of your vids, I always learn something. Keep posting them, I'm gonna keep watching them!
😃👍
Neat project and outstanding CGI and matching transitions.
This is exactly what I want to do to my mill. Thank you for such a professional looking and functional build.
Hi Phil,
A good design and well implemented.
Take care
Paul,,
Your stuff is always so interesting and cool. I bought an Opti BF20 mill this year. I need a power feed and you have given me a lot of inspiration. Great content Phil. Dan from Australia.
I used a cordless drill - the clutch is adjustable. 2speed too!
There’s only one word to describe this mate absolutely brilliant😀😀👍
You are awesome. Just purchased my first small mill. Great idea. 💡 thanks
Now you’re just showing off.
Well done sir.
I really like this project as it covers different areas of manufacturing from mechanical to electrical work. The workflow is presented in a very calm way. I just enjoyed watching the video. Thanks for the effort.The only idea that came to my mind when watching the final operation was that it might be wise to install the limit switches so that the motor will stop automatically when the end position is reached.
awesome work, your stuff always turns out so polished-looking.
Hi folks. I've been researching this topic and this is one of the simplest and best implemented self build designs I have come across. BobUK.
This was really awesome to watch . I recently aquired a lathe that has no cross feed and i think of implementing something similar . Well done ! It was carried out with great prescision and care to work just awesome .
Dude that is so professional, great job!
Thank you for such a professional looking and functional build.
A nice solution to your problem It turned out very good, you could also add some limit switches to it as well. I might do something similar to my mill having seen your video. Thanks.
"You would think I'd learn from my mistakes... *part flies off into the workshop*"
We've all been there. More than once :)
It is kinda fun watching parts fly from the lathe at crazy speeds.
Super simple and so elegant! Thanks for sharing!
Satisfying watch. Well executed design and build.
An incredibly elegant design, expertly accomplished. Thank you for showing your work. 👏👏👍😀
Good job.
Should hold hex collet block with the flats against the vise jaws though. Gripping on the points allows it to come loose.
You are a true artist sir! Very nice job!
Simplest conversion I have seen to date. Good job.
Very nice, simple and robust looking
Brilliant, Phil, well done!!
Genius design.
I'm going to shamelessly copy it
Nice build and great video! I think NC switches for limiting table travel would be a good idea.
Awesome design! I would change out the screw in the motor sliding mechanism, with a ballbearing, a spring and a grubscrew. and make two divots in the slot at each end of the sliding part, for that satisfying snap-action ;)
detent!!
Super clean and well done. I'll be copieing this one.
absolutely brilliant, loved every bit of this.
Nicely done! If you add another power feed to one of the other axis, check out the motors that are used to move electric seats. They cost about $12 to $15 USD and are very similar to the wind shield wiper motors. I think I'm going to be adapting some of your ideas to my mill, Thanks.
Better than the ones you can buy and will last longer, great job
tip: to make the display even easier to read, add a smoked piece of acrylic (like from a dead alarm clock) such that the display sections that are off don't show up as 'white' to your eye. Increases contrast a tonne.
I did the same thing on my 1936 atlas 10d lathe which was made without a power cross feed.
i i used 12v wiper motor (free) and 6 amp pwm with reverse (less than $10.00}, cheap and works great, good vid thanx
Very nicely done! Been wanting to do this on my mill for a while
Excellent design and build!!
Very enjoyable to watch. Was just asking myself how one would somehow insert the turbo switch somewhere into the PWM circuit when you came up with the solution of bypassing the potentiometer. Brilliant idea, and ex post so simple and obvious..
Great work, Phil.
I borrowed you design and built something similar for my Benchmaster mill. I used a Bodine gear drive. it works great and has really been an arm saver. Thanks.
Great build Phil! Love the simple in/out configuration you devised.
Thanks for sharing, Cheers
Very nice work. I like a solution for a problem and unique as well. Brilliant.
Nice build. Very clean and professional. My only comment would be to add some limit switches for both ends of travel.
Absolutely - those worm drives have massive torque and would destroy the gears if not stopped.
Cool Phil.. I like the rubber swarf mats..
Just a transverse feed motor and a tool feed motor and then adding a CNC controller can make it into a brilliant mill. Excellent video, thanks. (Although they would need to be a bit more upscale than wiper motors) ;)
Nice plan and execution. Inspire one of the next project. Could be perfect including two travel limit switches.
Sehr gut gemacht, ich werde Deine Ausführung übernehmen. Danke für die klasse Erklärung.
Very nice. Probably It will be more ergonomic if you put a connecting bar under the table (if possible) to be able to engage and disengage the motor from the side of the handwheel.
Nice job!!! Very professional.
This is the best powerfeed build I have seen so far! Doesn't look that expensive as well.
Hi Phil,
Very nice work, I have the factory power feed on my SX4 which has developed an intermittent fault.....sometimes it doesn’t work, other times it’s fine.....problem is the fault is getting more frequent, now there is a solution! Cheers
I've been thinking about making my own drive but was stuck on the clutch mechanism, thanks to you I now know how easy to do it. Just like you have. I hope you don't mind me using your idea..
Cheers.
Sure you can use it, that's why I showed it 🙂
Innovative design, excellent solution and great addition to the shop.
New subscriber. Thanks for sharing.
Best regards from the UK. John.
Great video, very informative. I'm very impressed with your design and workmanship. Thanks for sharing with us. Dan
Hi Philly, great video. I love your calm and down to earth comments, which take into account that most of your viewers probably don't have a workshop (yet). So I really appreciate how you break down the process for noobs. On that note: I'd like to know more about how you measure the cuts at the mill. Like, how do you reference a certain point or plane once the part is on the mill?
Thanks a lot, this is top quality content. I became a patreon, because the entertainment and educational value of your videos should be rewarded.
Hey, thanks for the support! As for your question, you can kind of think as the mill table as a coordinate system. You usually start by picking a "zero point", which can be anything, but for square/rectangular parts, people will usually use one of the corners of the part as their zero. Then you zero out your measuring system, the old school ways is to use the dials on the handwheels which are marked according to how far the table moves in relation to how you turn the handwheel. So for example if one rotation of the handwheel moves the table by 10mm, then you know that a half rotation would be 5mm and so on. You can zero these dials at any position and then look at the scale and/or count the rotations to move the table to a defined position. As you can imagine this requires a lot of time, skill and patience, so nowadays most modern machines have what's called a digital readout which does all this work for you. It just shows you the coordinates on a digital display by measuring where the table moves. So in this case, you would zero out the DRO when your corner is directly under the spindle (there's tools to determine this, called edge finders, which can use to "touch off" on the part). Then all your coordinates show 0 and now if you wanted to drill a hole, let's say, 20mm from the edge, you'd just move that axis until the display says 20mm and that's it. Of course things get more complex depending on what you do but that's the basic concept. Same thing for the lathe, except here it's the tool that moves instead of the workpiece, but you measure it the same way.
Super! Really nice work!
Very clean and impressive install!
Outstanding! I've been looking for guidance in making a power feed for my Benchmaster mill. This, with minor modifications, would work very well for me. Thank you for the excellent video.
"Imma do something simple"
*whips out 3d model of entire tool*
I came here to say this
the more time you spend designing the less time you spend making it
@@rafaelguimaraes1057 Yep and less stuff goes into the scrap bin!
The return is the satisfaction gained
@@PhilVandelay no such a thing as a “scrap bin” for me. It’s called the “future useful smaller parts bin”
Nice, clean upgrade without commercial extras that most hobby users never use. Have seeen that some react on your gloves. Me too, but I,d never use medical/nitrit gloves as their fingertips very easily get winded around rotating components( thankfully I reached the STOP button in time). Best regards.
Nice... everything you make is 1st class
I am going to build this. Thank you for your great video.
Hi Phil, just found your channel through a recommendation from one of my subscribers. Excellent job, I will be adding power feed to my X axis soon so I may follow this route. Well done. Subbed. Cheers, Jon
Very well built 👍😁👍. Thanks for the explanation. I've been looking into steppers as well as these but it's difficult to know if they'll have enough torque for my needs.
Great video man, you've got my sub for sure 😊.
Cheers!
Good work. We featured this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Really nice and clean solution!
Awesome bro outstanding work 👍
И не важно на каком языке мы говорим, главное что мы "технари" из одного "теста". Респект от души Бро, ты делаешь крутые вещи!!!
Artem(?) The Google Translate app on my iPhone allowed me to decipher your comment. Well said, Techie.
Nice job well thought out and executed
Cheers Phil from OZ
Phil, great video as always. What about using a solenoid to engage and disengage the drive motor? Electronic door lock, (DC) fuel cutoff solenoid,(AC) or through shaft solenoid would work perfectly I believe. Anyway, just a suggestion to an already great build.
Very nice. Works great.