Hi Quinn! 😊 I'm looking for other machinist RUclips channels run by women, since I only know of you. I thought maybe you would know some? I'm not really trusting the search function and algorithms here on RUclips to find exactly what I'm looking for. There are so many talented female makers and woodworkers on here, but so far, I've only found one (yours!) who's main focus is machining. Thank you so much for all the great build series and lessons on technique! Really appreciate it
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I have a particular application for what you just taught me in this video! I'm in the middle of a vacation trip now, but as soon as I'm back home, I'm going to practice the techniques you've described here, and I will be a better machinist as a result! Video saved!
Btw, I just tried to do a search to see whether or not there are other videos or articles on line about this topic, and I couldn't find any! Idk if I used the right search words or not, but all I could find was information concerning creating threads in a hole.
Hi 👋 👋 👋 👋 Quin hay I've been thinking about buying a metal lathe and a milling machine. I was thinking about the milling machine 1st because I'm thinking about doing valve guides in a small block Chevy and also cutting into the head to enlarge the valve springs seats. As well I'm looking at your milling machine I'm wondering if it would be large enough to do what I want to. Hope you can stear me in the right direction.
I've tried this vise alignment method many times over the last couple of years but can't seem to get it to work. My normal alignment time is about 2 hours. When alignment does occur it seems to come out of nowhere and I don't even know what I did to make it happen. However, after 2 hours, I'll take it.
You would be correct, completely underrated the whole tapping process... the why and how eluded me. Thank you for your clear and concise explanation of it.
Having been a machinist for 40-plus years I've been using these techniques for a long time but until now never understood why they work. We just did them. We would just see some older guy doing them and follow their lead not bothering to ask why. Good job with the explanations. Very easy to follow what you were saying.
Yes! There are so many simple techniques to learn, and, thank you for explaining the principles! -and giving us the vocabulary. Impact force. I had never thought of the concentration of energy through the application of short duration as opposed to a constant effort. It is obvious, after it's explained and demonstrated! I will now have to learn to dial in my vise, as you have shown! Again, as always, thank you for being such a generous Quinn!
when i was in high school i took a machine shop class, we used hammers that had lead faces on them for tapping in vices and material. Lead is extremely soft and heavy, so a lot of force was not required. the best part is we made a mold so that when they wore out or started to mushroom out, we could unscrew them and the melt the lead down again, pour it in the mold, then drill and tap new threads in it and then reattach it to the hammer. me made most of the faces out of old tire weights.
@oldmaninthecave I've heard both. First time I heard "suicide nuts" was when I worked at a tire shop where a guy had his knock-off adapters on the wrong side of the car when he brought them in. The shop old guy started yelling at the guy due to the risk of the nuts coming off that way.
@@oldmaninthecave I restore old cars as a hobby. mainly Second Gen Camaros. but I do love the classic European cars, like the 1957 Mercedese SL300 gullwing, Farrari GT 250 Berlinetta, and British cars, like the MG's, Asten Martin, and Jaguar's the XKE are particular favorites of mine. Harry Haga (the designer of the first and second gen camaros) used a lot of Eruopean Design cues for designing it. in particular the long hood and short rear deck of the Jaguar XKE. also, the 1970-73 Camaro with the Rally Sport option package has split front bumpers like the XKE, 250 GT, and Asten Martin DB5. You can also see the fastback and rear hip influence from the Farrari 250 in the second gen Camaro as well. I always had a thing for Knock Off wire spoke wheels. I have some pictures of an early second gen Camaro prototype with Knock Off wheels. Of course, GM being run by the Bean Counters, they said no to real knock off wire wheels. but they did offer a hub cap that was a wire wheel look-a-like. Anyway, back to the subject of Lead Hammers, I have a couple that i use on a regular basis, mainly for assembling thing that require a tight fit, but not marring the finish. they are also useful for seating thrust bearing on a small or big block Chevy. they also make a good piston install tool for driving the piston out of the ring compressor and into the block. I hold the head of the hammer in my had and use the handle to tap the piston in. the added weight from the lead makes it very easy.
14:00 on the subject of hammering with the indicator engaged: Couldn't you just slightly move the indicator needle out of the way with your finger? Or is that a big no no for some reason?
Absolutely fascinating video. I own NONE of the machines that you have, and know abolutely nothing of the stuff that you do- I drive a desk in a bank to earn my crust and pay my mortgage and feed what's left of my family (kids are at Uni, they're fine)- I stumbled upon your channel 2, maybe 3 years ago, love the mechanical stuff (steam engines and such), but this particular video explains so much, even if I will never use the info- Thank you!
Wow thanks for that tappy tap tap lesson Ms Blondy. I won't be thinking of sheep tonight.😂😂😂 Just kidding. I appreciate the way you explain in such detail everything you do. I also like the fact that you show us when a mistake, an error, a moment of lost concentration is made. For example, were you thinking about that open cupboard, screaming, close me, close me please, I feel exposed when you made that error? 🤭
Some useful advice here Quinn. Thank you. I use a hammer with a hard rubber face on one side when I tram the vice. I know there's some bounce, but no danger of damage. I see you put a block of wood against your vice. Cheers Nobby
As a novice, I haven't had to think about these items, yet! It's so obvious AFTER you explain it -- but I'm sure I would have overlooked the "offset" pivot technology many-a-time before figuring it out! Thanks! Not as FUN learning it the EASY way -- but definitely will save future frustration!
Cool topic, very helpful for visualizing what's happening. This is another one of those things that seems trivial until you actually have to do it yourself; this is a nice reference!
Quinn, Thank you for your time an an unload of knowledge for a bonehead. I need to watch this several times. Play a panio? The more you practice the better you get. Pulling my vise off and doing it. Whoo too. Thanks again Quinn your the beat teacher. Joel
After learning how to tap things in on a machining course and being surprised about the precision achieveable with impulse force I've found many other applications. The most notable win is against the temperature control for the shower head - just with a finger, but tappy-tap-tap is the way to get the temperature you desire.
This is an excellent video. Something after nearly 50 years of machining (and teaching) I’ve never heard of before! One question: what do you mean by the term “delta“?
Mentioning "impulse" sent me down an internet rabbit hole. Did you know that the rate of change of acceleration is called "jerk"? Me too, but I didn't know that the rate of change of jerk is "snap", followed by "crackle" and "pop". Probably not what you intended to teach me, but thanks :)
I prefer using deadblow hammers with replaceable plastic heads to tap down parts. Less bounce to the hammer, less tendency for part bounce. I prefer the Lixie brand, I have light aluminum and heavy cast heads in 1" and 1.5" sizes.
Hi blondie my lathe arrived the other day and finally got it set up its a CT500 , i did some test cuts as well as had to use the mill to make a riser for the tool post but on the lathe i had 8 & 3/4 inch long aluminium stock that i had cast myself at 55mm thick the part i turned down was 184mm long but on the tail stock end 39.02mm but on the chuck end 38.5mm so its not very long seeming i have a 500mm between centers, any ideas on what to look for to narrow down the problem as i can see anything moving in the wrong direction
A light bulb just went on.....Thank you so so so much. I was ready to throw my vice into the pit of never-ending darkness because I was trying to set up my vice and every time, well we will not enter the colorful words that were spoken. You are my "Heroine" ! ! ! Thank you again Quinn for making a novice like me finally understand. Your Queen of the Shop ....
You might want to try making a hammer head out of lead. Lead has absolutely no bounce and being heavier it takes only a very subtle "tap" and being soft it won't mar your work. Sure, it will distort faster but if you take it easy on them they'll last for quite a while. And when they get really ratty, they're easy to make and you can use the lead over again to make another head.
That explanation of the offset-problem was really helpful, I always fall for that because the damn vise mounts are never in the same plane as the fixed jaw. Somehow, in my head I was always thinking it was pivoting somewhere like 2/3 of the way down the length of the jaw. Thank you.
When I have a student who is too enthusiastic with the hammer I demonstrate tapping in a vice by gently slapping it with my hands. They usually get the point.
Instead of hammering on the back of the park could you set up a jig and put a push block against it to push it forward the five and a half thousand that should be a lot better on the indicator I would imagine
I have a bunch of different hammers in my tool box several of them I made, from a little one barely 6 oz with steel face and a brass face up to a 2 lb brass hammer made from a piece of 2 inch square bell brass
I've had something very similar happen in university systems, not something I wrote , but there uphill battle to get management to engage with the use was a hell of a headache.
Try doing that and then take your hand off the tip - without taping or moving anything else and see where the needle rests the 2nd time around. But I also tried your suggested methods years ago - without success. Also need really small fingers/really delicate touch - small fingers I don't have but sometimes OK with the touch. Retired machinist in Land Down Under.
@@bobhudson6659 when I'm in my shop, i can put the finger on the DTI and it will not move, and will stay put at it's current reading (0.01mm and 1/10th DTI). finger on/off doesn't change the reading. hence it it a great way to damped the impulse from the hammer
1/2 an hour on hitting things with a hammer???
Worth every second👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Your skin and hands are quite clean for a machinist ! Teasing aside, your lessons are absolutely deep and complete, leaving no question unanswered.
Hi Quinn! 😊
I'm looking for other machinist RUclips channels run by women, since I only know of you. I thought maybe you would know some? I'm not really trusting the search function and algorithms here on RUclips to find exactly what I'm looking for. There are so many talented female makers and woodworkers on here, but so far, I've only found one (yours!) who's main focus is machining. Thank you so much for all the great build series and lessons on technique! Really appreciate it
Well worth watching. I wondered why my parallels would often slip out while milling and my results were never quite as square as they should be.
Excellent presentation. Well done!
Gütentight. The first word i learned in my life. Kudos from good old Germany.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I have a particular application for what you just taught me in this video! I'm in the middle of a vacation trip now, but as soon as I'm back home, I'm going to practice the techniques you've described here, and I will be a better machinist as a result! Video saved!
Btw, I just tried to do a search to see whether or not there are other videos or articles on line about this topic, and I couldn't find any! Idk if I used the right search words or not, but all I could find was information concerning creating threads in a hole.
I looked for this video when I started machining a year ago or so and couldn’t find one. Thanks!
Learning a lot from you videos
Fantastic explanation of the tapping in process thank you for the education Cheers.
This is a really great video. ❤
Hi Quinn, Well explained thank you. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Quinn
This is awesome. Two things indicated in one week!
Tappe-tap-tap explained well.
Hi 👋 👋 👋 👋 Quin hay I've been thinking about buying a metal lathe and a milling machine. I was thinking about the milling machine 1st because I'm thinking about doing valve guides in a small block Chevy and also cutting into the head to enlarge the valve springs seats. As well I'm looking at your milling machine I'm wondering if it would be large enough to do what I want to. Hope you can stear me in the right direction.
I've tried this vise alignment method many times over the last couple of years but can't seem to get it to work. My normal alignment time is about 2 hours. When alignment does occur it seems to come out of nowhere and I don't even know what I did to make it happen. However, after 2 hours, I'll take it.
I wich i coud do this at work but the door needs to be closed in order to move the macine or i needd 2 hands to press the button
Got to say that right there was pretty neat
Thor surely could learn something from you, I know I did ⚒
👍👍
Trivia : Google Brumagem screwdriver
With proper skill and application even a hammer is a precision instrument
There’s a traditionalist somewhere saying “These people have no idea what I can do with the proper size rock”
Jeremy Clarkson is nodding his head somewhere 😂
Even the biggest of hammers on the smallest of parts with the proper skill is a precision instrument/tool.
With proper skill and application, even a precision instrument is a hammer.
You know, I can't knock your observation, you hit that one right on the head and drove home your point.
Quinn, you are truly a gifted teacher. I've enjoyed all of your videos over the years, but your "Skills" videos are a particular favorite.
You would be correct, completely underrated the whole tapping process... the why and how eluded me. Thank you for your clear and concise explanation of it.
German torque is fine but if you pull too hard you get Russian torque - Brokenoff.
Wow!! That was an amazing amount of tapping without making a single threaded hole!!
Having been a machinist for 40-plus years I've been using these techniques for a long time but until now never understood why they work. We just did them. We would just see some older guy doing them and follow their lead not bothering to ask why. Good job with the explanations. Very easy to follow what you were saying.
I am german and a car mechanic. I can indeed confirm that "a Gütentight" is the DIN standard in germany along with "knall fest die scheiße"
I would rather propose "sitzt, passt, wackelt und hat Luft"
@@TheCarrotOverlord du meinst: Nach fest kommt ganz fest. Und nach ganz fest kommt ab.
Nach fest kommt kaput. After tight it’s broken.
Yes! There are so many simple techniques to learn, and, thank you for explaining the principles! -and giving us the vocabulary. Impact force. I had never thought of the concentration of energy through the application of short duration as opposed to a constant effort. It is obvious, after it's explained and demonstrated!
I will now have to learn to dial in my vise, as you have shown!
Again, as always, thank you for being such a generous Quinn!
when i was in high school i took a machine shop class, we used hammers that had lead faces on them for tapping in vices and material. Lead is extremely soft and heavy, so a lot of force was not required. the best part is we made a mold so that when they wore out or started to mushroom out, we could unscrew them and the melt the lead down again, pour it in the mold, then drill and tap new threads in it and then reattach it to the hammer. me made most of the faces out of old tire weights.
A very good method.If you want a harder face, you can also drop a blob of a harder metal such as copper or bronze or steel or titanium in the mold.
Knock off or knockoff nut - a winged nut to hold the wheels on
@oldmaninthecave I've heard both. First time I heard "suicide nuts" was when I worked at a tire shop where a guy had his knock-off adapters on the wrong side of the car when he brought them in. The shop old guy started yelling at the guy due to the risk of the nuts coming off that way.
@@oldmaninthecave I restore old cars as a hobby. mainly Second Gen Camaros. but I do love the classic European cars, like the 1957 Mercedese SL300 gullwing, Farrari GT 250 Berlinetta, and British cars, like the MG's, Asten Martin, and Jaguar's the XKE are particular favorites of mine. Harry Haga (the designer of the first and second gen camaros) used a lot of Eruopean Design cues for designing it. in particular the long hood and short rear deck of the Jaguar XKE. also, the 1970-73 Camaro with the Rally Sport option package has split front bumpers like the XKE, 250 GT, and Asten Martin DB5. You can also see the fastback and rear hip influence from the Farrari 250 in the second gen Camaro as well. I always had a thing for Knock Off wire spoke wheels. I have some pictures of an early second gen Camaro prototype with Knock Off wheels. Of course, GM being run by the Bean Counters, they said no to real knock off wire wheels. but they did offer a hub cap that was a wire wheel look-a-like. Anyway, back to the subject of Lead Hammers, I have a couple that i use on a regular basis, mainly for assembling thing that require a tight fit, but not marring the finish. they are also useful for seating thrust bearing on a small or big block Chevy. they also make a good piston install tool for driving the piston out of the ring compressor and into the block. I hold the head of the hammer in my had and use the handle to tap the piston in. the added weight from the lead makes it very easy.
Great video! I love how you explain things - you break it down so clearly and simply. Thanks for taking the time and sharing this video with us.
I've been wondering about this since your early beginner videos.. thanks for doing a deep dive!
The power feed vice tapping method still has me stumped...
14:00 on the subject of hammering with the indicator engaged:
Couldn't you just slightly move the indicator needle out of the way with your finger? Or is that a big no no for some reason?
Shouldn't this video be 6 seconds long?!
.
.
.
.
.
Your content is excellent!
I've tried a bunch of different hammers, but nothing seems to work as well as the good old traditional lead hammer.
Absolutely fascinating video. I own NONE of the machines that you have, and know abolutely nothing of the stuff that you do- I drive a desk in a bank to earn my crust and pay my mortgage and feed what's left of my family (kids are at Uni, they're fine)- I stumbled upon your channel 2, maybe 3 years ago, love the mechanical stuff (steam engines and such), but this particular video explains so much, even if I will never use the info- Thank you!
Wow thanks for that tappy tap tap lesson Ms Blondy. I won't be thinking of sheep tonight.😂😂😂
Just kidding. I appreciate the way you explain in such detail everything you do. I also like the fact that you show us when a mistake, an error, a moment of lost concentration is made. For example, were you thinking about that open cupboard, screaming, close me, close me please, I feel exposed when you made that error? 🤭
“I now have a square face and square sides…”
But do you have square pants? 😂
I always enjoy the basics lessons you show. I always pick up something new.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
And I thought it was just a question of tappy-tap-tap.
Nice instruction. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Can you say awesome video? I mean really!
Some useful advice here Quinn. Thank you. I use a hammer with a hard rubber face on one side when I tram the vice. I know there's some bounce, but no danger of damage. I see you put a block of wood against your vice. Cheers Nobby
Gütentight ist wirklich richtig lustig.. :D :D :D
As a novice, I haven't had to think about these items, yet! It's so obvious AFTER you explain it -- but I'm sure I would have overlooked the "offset" pivot technology many-a-time before figuring it out! Thanks! Not as FUN learning it the EASY way -- but definitely will save future frustration!
Brilliant - VERY well explained, Thank You
6 seconds but 30 minutes 43 seconds?? foreshadowing quinn enjoymentage
Cool topic, very helpful for visualizing what's happening. This is another one of those things that seems trivial until you actually have to do it yourself; this is a nice reference!
This was so instructive! You are an excellent teacher! Please keep up the good work!
Excellent video! Very informative.
And if all else fails.....get a bigger hammer. 🤣
Quinn, Thank you for your time an an unload of knowledge for a bonehead. I need to watch this several times. Play a panio? The more you practice the better you get. Pulling my vise off and doing it. Whoo too. Thanks again Quinn your the beat teacher. Joel
So, those 1-2-3 blocks…
Shouldn’t they be called:
1-3-5 blocks?
Just wondering…
You just answered a question I always wanted to ask but was afraid to, snug then tap. Makes so much sense once you explain it this way...
After learning how to tap things in on a machining course and being surprised about the precision achieveable with impulse force I've found many other applications. The most notable win is against the temperature control for the shower head - just with a finger, but tappy-tap-tap is the way to get the temperature you desire.
This is an excellent video. Something after nearly 50 years of machining (and teaching) I’ve never heard of before!
One question: what do you mean by the term “delta“?
Mentioning "impulse" sent me down an internet rabbit hole. Did you know that the rate of change of acceleration is called "jerk"? Me too, but I didn't know that the rate of change of jerk is "snap", followed by "crackle" and "pop".
Probably not what you intended to teach me, but thanks :)
I prefer using deadblow hammers with replaceable plastic heads to tap down parts. Less bounce to the hammer, less tendency for part bounce. I prefer the Lixie brand, I have light aluminum and heavy cast heads in 1" and 1.5" sizes.
Definitely helpful, thanks a lot, Quinn.
23:55 "This method only works ahead of time." I wish I had known this 60 years ago on SO MANY topics!
Very informative and well said.
Hi blondie my lathe arrived the other day and finally got it set up its a CT500 , i did some test cuts as well as had to use the mill to make a riser for the tool post but on the lathe i had 8 & 3/4 inch long aluminium stock that i had cast myself at 55mm thick the part i turned down was 184mm long but on the tail stock end 39.02mm but on the chuck end 38.5mm so its not very long seeming i have a 500mm between centers, any ideas on what to look for to narrow down the problem as i can see anything moving in the wrong direction
good teachers are rare to find, good job, well done, thenks
A light bulb just went on.....Thank you so so so much. I was ready to throw my vice into the pit of never-ending darkness because I was trying to set up my vice and every time, well we will not enter the colorful words that were spoken. You are my "Heroine" ! ! ! Thank you again Quinn for making a novice like me finally understand. Your Queen of the Shop ....
Whenever I'm watching a video where someone else is machining something and they don't say they're tappy-tap-tapping it in, I'm always disappointed.
You might want to try making a hammer head out of lead. Lead has absolutely no bounce and being heavier it takes only a very subtle "tap" and being soft it won't mar your work. Sure, it will distort faster but if you take it easy on them they'll last for quite a while. And when they get really ratty, they're easy to make and you can use the lead over again to make another head.
Well Done Quinn, but what if you don't have power feed.
I am totally Tapped out from watching this video. 😄😁
I will put a lot of brain power into and do some very sketchy things to avoid removing my vice. Good vid.
The vice alinement was new to me , as you said expertly moving a part in you
Hand gives you an idea of the different angles it creates . THANK YOU .
That explanation of the offset-problem was really helpful, I always fall for that because the damn vise mounts are never in the same plane as the fixed jaw. Somehow, in my head I was always thinking it was pivoting somewhere like 2/3 of the way down the length of the jaw. Thank you.
I love your contributions, thanks friend
When I have a student who is too enthusiastic with the hammer I demonstrate tapping in a vice by gently slapping it with my hands. They usually get the point.
Instead of hammering on the back of the park could you set up a jig and put a push block against it to push it forward the five and a half thousand that should be a lot better on the indicator I would imagine
There's nothing a hammer can't fix
If you can't fix it then your hammer is too small !
And what a hammer won't fix needs ducttape...
I have a bunch of different hammers in my tool box several of them I made, from a little one barely 6 oz with steel face and a brass face up to a 2 lb brass hammer made from a piece of 2 inch square bell brass
Must have misunderstood the process, when does your tag team partner jump over the rope and switch with you?
Great video Quinn. The timing is perfect since my lathe and mill will be arriving in a couple months.
Question about the lathe tapping: if a "light" tap moves the part, is it possible that the cutting forces will move the part out of alignment?
I wonder if anyone ever puts a 1 2 3 block in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Is it Fenner that has that gnarly lead hammerface, or Tubalcain?
I've had something very similar happen in university systems, not something I wrote , but there uphill battle to get management to engage with the use was a hell of a headache.
Is it safe to assume the jaw lift part is irrelevant with an anglock vice? To a degree?
I feel like I can do it myself while not even having a mill! I might just buy a vise to do this!
You exorcised a lot a ghosts from a lot a shops today, mine too, Thanks
Thank you, you explained that in way that's easy to understand
as a suggestion, if you put your finger on the DTI tip, you can dampen the hammer impact on the dti
Try doing that and then take your hand off the tip - without taping or moving anything else and see where the needle rests the 2nd time around. But I also tried your suggested methods years ago - without success. Also need really small fingers/really delicate touch - small fingers I don't have but sometimes OK with the touch. Retired machinist in Land Down Under.
@@bobhudson6659 when I'm in my shop, i can put the finger on the DTI and it will not move, and will stay put at it's current reading (0.01mm and 1/10th DTI). finger on/off doesn't change the reading. hence it it a great way to damped the impulse from the hammer
according to AvE that's a swing press
what is "tapping in"? I'm only familiar with tappy-tap-tapping in
I appreciate the attention to details.
The devil resides there, I've heard.
30 mins on how to use a hammer? Worth every second! I saw lots of things I've been doing wrong, and how to rectify/avoid them in future.
how can a three letter word have so may different meanings
Amazing video thankyou
Hammer = Percussive Persuasion Device. 😄
Nicely done
You forgot Newtons 2nd and 3rd laws lol
What a great video on tap, tap, tapping! Thanks!
SALUT
MERCI POUR TOUT
DU CANADA QC
And I thought this was going to be about breaking chips and ... taps.
So, tapping in is internal threads and tapping out is external threads, right? LOL