That was going to be question as well; use a compass on the center mark to get a circle, find the appropriate depth, and then run the bandsaw down the length a bunch of times until it's just outside dimension. I'm a big fan of "use the most efficient tool as long as possible," but not sure if it would be as accurate in the end if it weren't done her way.
since the covers were back to back, when Quinn tapped the decorative cover threads the one on the bottom got an Australian thread--these kind of fine details are important to get right. Most people wouldn't have bothered with Australian threading one of them up-side-down because of course you won't be able to tell in the finished project, but this attention to detail is what separates Quinn from the mass of machinists;p
I could perfectly live just watching you, This Old Tony and Adam Savage (in no particular order). This kind of content you all make makes me happy for multiple reasons, and I'm not even a machinist. Thanks Quinn!
Great video. Terrific project. I’m making a steam engine model from Stuart. I think engine building is the best work for me as a hobby machinist. Regardless of what machining job is actually in progress at the moment, when someone asks what I use my home metal shop for, I answer: “I make model engines” . Way better than, “I’m making corner filing jigs for no project I can imagine yet, but I have always wanted them and I had the materials in my stock.” Civilians are usually quite satisfied with that answer. I am super glad you chose this project - a full locomotive will remain my great white whale. I may yet try one before I die. Or shortly after. Watching you on this project is a terrific primer.
Hi Quinn, it’s looking really nice. I can’t wait to see it running. I need to go back and see how you made your Boiler. I wish I could make a Steam Engine to drive a Boat. Just a 16’ Flat Bottom Boat. I think it would be great to go Steaming around on the Lake. I have no idea what size Steam Engine that would take though. Looking forward to the next Video. Great Job so far on the Locomotive.😁👍👍
You did not make an error in the last video, it was an engineered design choice to allow indexing of the steam chest to prevent inadvertently interchanging of the steam chests. ( And I thought I would never use my engineering reports again). Great video. I watch every one.
I feel that as a toolmaker, two parts are *almost* identical, but one has a locating pin .050" to the right from the other to prevent the operators that are setting up the dies from assembling them wrong during changeovers.
An idea for an interesting transition shot occurred to me when you were putting that second piece into the lathe to turn the boss, it would start with spinning up the part, then fade into the shot of the part spinning down having finished being machined. You may need to apply a mask below the chuck between the two shots to hide the change in the chips and anything else that might have changed in the background, so that might make it a little work, but I think that could be an interesting effect.
The amount of work going into your locomotive is astonishing. Every step is tedious and has to be very accurate because of the scale. Can't imagine the full-size version being within a 16th of an inch. You're working within a thousandth of an inch just to keep it in scale. You would have been a super machinist in 1910. Great video, Quinn. Love your work and Chanel.
Quinn, you could have made the steam chest according to the original print and, after finishing, then trimmed the outside edge to your new dimension. A lot less thinking and checking when machining.
I've heard large steam power turbines refer to their control manifold as a 'steam chest' as well. Turbines don't have any valve timing like pistons though, they just use a valve in the steam chest as a throttle valve
Yep, the steam chest is just an area where the steam is gathered into the machine before distribution to the working areas. In a large turbine plant the steam chest is that part that contains the throttle valve up to the 1st stage nozzle inlets. It gets confusing. In recip steam engines the chest almost always contains the valving. This model uses outside admission slide valve which means it functions as Quin describes. The picture of the "modern" steam engine, though, has an inside admission piston valve (there were rarely inside admission slide valves) so the operation is the same only significantly different. Poppet valve engines have both a steam chest and an exhaust chest. Lots of rabbit holes to explore.
I was just watching Keith Rucker's back catalogue and came across the rebuild of the Vulcan 0-4-0 at the museum he is part of. I was so pleased to be able to explain (in detail) to my partner why it had a flat top box above the cylinder rather that a cylindrical object. I was a bit disappointed in the lukewarm response🤷
if the covers dont seal, you might not even need to machine them down, might be able to get away with lapping them down with sandpaper. Though I suppose, any excuse to use the mill is a good one, haha
@@marcusrauch4223 All in good time my precious, all in good time. Some bosses you want to stick in a box, then put that box in another box, then mail it to yourself and when it gets to you smash it flat with a mallet.
Really enjoy your channel. So clearly explained. I wonder why you don't use a shop vac to collect shavings? Blowing or brushing them off seems to be just another step. Thanks.
When I heard "got a lot of milling to do now, so while that's running let me tell you a little about..." I was 100% expecting a sponsor read, really broke my brain for a second.
Was watching a vid the other day and they started talking about cooking in a way that sounded exactly like one of those ads for hello fresh or factor or whatever, only for them to say "which is why i'm so glad i have friends who know how to cook better than i do" and it gave me mental whiplash
You said radii! Hallelujah! I’m so tired of sitting here screaming at the screen “the multiple of radius is NOT radiuses”! Thank goodness there is someone else out there that knows
Nice! It's always very satisfying to watch your videos. And I am glad to see that "Because Shut Up, that's why..." has become a thing. I laughed just reading it in the comments. Love it! Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
When I look at how clean and centered that mill press spins… then I look at my clapped out Wen drill press chuck dance the fandango I have serious envy. Of course I know it’s a cheap drill press and it works well enough for what I’m doing; my trailer lights really don’t care if they are a few tens of thousands off and some decorative black smithing is a whole other ball game. This all said I am putting in a new floor in my work garage (gravel out, level cement in!) and in a few short years I’m migrating to machining as part of my 20 year retirement plan to work on steam rail roads
is spool valve another term for a piston valve, or are they something different? i've only ever heard of piston valve when it comes to steam engines, spool valve is a completely new one to me
They are double-acting two stroke engines. Each side of the piston has intake/power and exhaust strokes, but as an external combustion engine there is no compression needed
Every stroke is a power stroke. So a two cylinder steam engine has the same number of power strokes per rotation as a V8 gasoline engine. Steam is extremely efficient.
FWIW, double acting Diesel engines have been constructed. Those engines too, used a "locked" piston rod, sealing gland, and cross head. For a deep dive into steam engine theory, check out Rankine cycle.
@@Blondihacks In some ways! In the efficiency trials run by various small gauge loco clubs you're doing well to get above 2%. Steam doesn't scale down well. So stoked to have this series, which started a couple of months after I bought Kozo's book.
@@mhagnew Those are kind of tricky, I doubt they would have had the ongoing investments to keep the whole thing Theseusing along for their original purpose, facilitating profits. Even assuming technology stopped after the A-3 hit the market, eventually the added labor of disassembly, inspection, remachining, and replacement, would justify buying a new one instead. The steam locomotives still in service today can't be replaced because their value is in being historic.
4:30 - interrupted cut. Would it have been easier to chop a cube off each end with the bandsaw to remove a chunk so the lathe tool wouldn't have to do all that work?
I was listening to a steam engine audiobook for reasons, and they mentioned how the nut that compressed the packing material around the shaft could be tightened and loosened to change the level of play that the shaft had as it moved through the cylinder. Is that something you lose when you move to O-rings? Does it not really matter?
I suspect, but cannot proove, that a well cut O-ring groove and ring would provide better sealing and less friction than a stuffing box, while being less tolerant of wear (which you can take up with the gland nut on a stuffing box). The exact width and depth of an O-ring groove is super important as it decides the crush on the shaft.
Hey Quinn, question for you. Do you find it's necessary to have drills that are ground specifically for brass, or do you just use the standard drills for it?
Drills are fairly inaccurate for hole size anyway, so I don't think it would require different cutting geometry as long as it still makes a hole. If it needs to be precise, you can always ream or bore it, but I think any drill will at least make a hole in it
@@joshclark44 If the drill point is ground correctly, and it's running true, it will drill quite close to size, and not wander. Keep feedrate conservative, and use cutting oil.
Hi Quinn! When you made the boiler, you were very careful to avoid brass getting in contact with steam, since the steam might leach the zinc out of the brass. Is that not an issue for the steam that reaches the steambox? Just asking for my own education, I have no clue about steam engines and first heart about dezincification from you.
Also surprised by the brass plate covers in a live steam assembly. Dezincification is a real thing so I’m wondering if it was just a mistake (and it’s actually bronze plate) or whether the valve gear application allows brass perhaps because of the way it would fail is more controlled. I was also curious as to whether a bandsaw reduction around the gland, or perhaps even a trapanning operation might have been worthwhile (the saw being the fastest method to remove material). There would still have been a lot of interrupted cut; but perhaps fewer hones.
If I had to guess, it is because the boiler is under high pressure all the time (you get what I mean), while the steam chests are under lower pressure, and only when the locomotive is moving.
None of my business I'm sure, but just curious, do you still work in the tech industry or is you tube your day job these days? I always enjoy and learn from your videos!
0:34 Drawing Copyright 2021? Did past Quinn already know present Quinn will blow the dimension, but thought it would be funny just to be quiet and watch? 😂
Guess she printed that at the same time as the other drawing with a past date, she said she forgot to update the template at that time, so, same problem here.
arouynd 5:20 long interrupted cut. Could one have made it easier for the tool by cutting away bulk of the material first? be it on bandsaw or other methods
Hi Quinn, love your videos and have been watching for over 3 years now. It was interesting to see how much the countersink bit deflected on the first hole in the cover when the video was at normal speed. Keep up the great work. Cheers Doc from downunder. :)
Excellent presentation. Thank you. You used the end mill to create flat spots so that you could center punch and then drill. Why not just just use the end mill and drill the needed hole? This is pretty soft material with a fairly short drill path.
That's only really a concern on parts that are directly connected to or in the boiler. In this case though it's case of old naming conventions confusing things but they'll be bronze as brass doesn't work well in cylinders as it is a horrendous bearing surface
@@gherkinisgreat - For the cylinders themselves, she said they were cast bronze, so my question is just about the steam chest and steam chest cover made in this video. The steam chest has live steam in it, at similair pressures/temps as the boiler. So wouldn't dezincification still be an issue? Why would brass be bad in the boiler but ok in the steam chest? This is a genuine question, I don't know much about this and want to learn. As to nomenclature, the steam chest and cover both look like brass to me in the video, based on the color, but sure, they could actually be bronze. But Quinn said "brass", at least for the cover, and she doesn't usually use the terms interchangeably. If this is actually bronze, maybe she'll let us know.
9:58 - yup, I get it. And I'm sure it is. I hope you're able to take breaks sometimes (even if you do so by just pre-prepping videos and releasing them on a schedule, instead of producing them week by week).
Hi Quinn, awsome job!! But one thing that the video leaves me wonder is the use of brass for a part that will be in contact with hot steam instead of bronze. I heard somewherr (May be on your channel), that the zinc in the brass, gets corroded when exposed to hot steam, making the parts fail, while the tin in the bronze is not affected.
My OCD on screw heads not being aligned has been triggered. I continue to really enjoy this series and hope to have a windfall one day where I can set up a mini machine shop to play along.
I saw the restoration of a classic wooden speed boat and all the screw heads on the hull planking were clocked in the same directiion as a fine detail.
Never did any real machining besides of playing with a small Proxxon lathe for less than an hour total, so not qualified to give any wanted or unwanted advice, but watched dozens of your videos including both beginners series .. Couldn't that first punchmark be done on the mill, too? With edge finding, DRO and a center drill? Just to know if I sometimes in the (probably quite far) future do find the space and time to get some machine tools. My feeling is "this is good enough, and takes 10% of the time and no additional mill setup". Or is there another reason?
Great work, really starting to come along. I just hate to see all that shiny brass covered up. But that’s just me… Perhaps next video close with showing the boiler in place too
Hi Quinn, when you center something in the four jaw chuck, I often (but not always) see you checking the angle as well. For the steam chests you didn't. How do you decide whether that step is neccessary? Thanks for the great videos!
I was wondering this. Ultimately it comes down to how reliably does your 4-jaw clamp a part straight, and how accurate does it need to be. Here she's got some nicely squared stock with a decent length of flat material up against the jaws of the chuck. Using copper soft jaws will allow for a little bit of movement though. If it's off at all then the outcome will be a boss and bore that aren't quite coaxial with the cylinder bore. To a certain extent that can be compensated by some flex in the linkages. I'm guessing she didn't check here because she knows it's going to be good enough from experience. If in doubt always worth checking though. . The usual technique of dialing in separately near the chuck wouldn't work here because she's centered on a punch mark, but could have done with an indicator attached to the carriage and moving it up and down a face to ensure no movement.
I've been wondering if there were any reasonable way to detect the issue with the cylinder castings and offset the bore? How would you even know to check for it? If you had a time machine maybe?
I've got a feeling that the phrase "The surface looks good enough so I think it will be ok." is an ominous one. The maybe after assembly we'll be revisiting for a skim cut.
I may be the only one curious about this, but how heavy is it getting? It's probably the old man in me who wants to feel the heft of something everytime I add a bit more bulk to it. Maybe you could weigh it after 5 to 10 videos and give us an update.
Was there some reason (besides "because shut up") that you didn't bandsaw off a big chunk before doing that long interrupted cut?
That was my question too.
Mine, too.
That was going to be question as well; use a compass on the center mark to get a circle, find the appropriate depth, and then run the bandsaw down the length a bunch of times until it's just outside dimension. I'm a big fan of "use the most efficient tool as long as possible," but not sure if it would be as accurate in the end if it weren't done her way.
Or just cut the bulk out with two cuts removing the whole corner leaving enough to face and turn the boss.
My question three!
since the covers were back to back, when Quinn tapped the decorative cover threads the one on the bottom got an Australian thread--these kind of fine details are important to get right. Most people wouldn't have bothered with Australian threading one of them up-side-down because of course you won't be able to tell in the finished project, but this attention to detail is what separates Quinn from the mass of machinists;p
I could perfectly live just watching you, This Old Tony and Adam Savage (in no particular order).
This kind of content you all make makes me happy for multiple reasons, and I'm not even a machinist. Thanks Quinn!
What a pleasure it is to watch this! Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise, Quinn.
Thanks
You are really good at this. Really looking forward to the finished product :D
Great video. Terrific project. I’m making a steam engine model from Stuart. I think engine building is the best work for me as a hobby machinist.
Regardless of what machining job is actually in progress at the moment, when someone asks what I use my home metal shop for, I answer: “I make model engines” . Way better than, “I’m making corner filing jigs for no project I can imagine yet, but I have always wanted them and I had the materials in my stock.”
Civilians are usually quite satisfied with that answer.
I am super glad you chose this project - a full locomotive will remain my great white whale. I may yet try one before I die. Or shortly after. Watching you on this project is a terrific primer.
Good commentary about the valve. Thanks for sharing.
You do some beautiful work, Quinn, and this is perhaps the best yet.
A very satisfying episode. TIL the sliding valve thingy in the steam box is what makes the classic choo choo noise.
Hi Quinn, it’s looking really nice. I can’t wait to see it running. I need to go back and see how you made your Boiler. I wish I could make a Steam Engine to drive a Boat. Just a 16’ Flat Bottom Boat. I think it would be great to go Steaming around on the Lake. I have no idea what size Steam Engine that would take though. Looking forward to the next Video. Great Job so far on the Locomotive.😁👍👍
Beautiful work, as always. 🙂
Splendid work, Quinn!
Another fine presentation.
You did not make an error in the last video, it was an engineered design choice to allow indexing of the steam chest to prevent inadvertently interchanging of the steam chests. ( And I thought I would never use my engineering reports again). Great video. I watch every one.
I feel that as a toolmaker, two parts are *almost* identical, but one has a locating pin .050" to the right from the other to prevent the operators that are setting up the dies from assembling them wrong during changeovers.
Hmmm... I don't remember seeing this Saturday... I mean... Yay! It's Blondihacks time!!!
An idea for an interesting transition shot occurred to me when you were putting that second piece into the lathe to turn the boss, it would start with spinning up the part, then fade into the shot of the part spinning down having finished being machined. You may need to apply a mask below the chuck between the two shots to hide the change in the chips and anything else that might have changed in the background, so that might make it a little work, but I think that could be an interesting effect.
Feel free to add in shop safety wisdom bits, like using a pusher for the bandsaw or good tool etiquette.
Quinn: “I am reasonably happy with that…” Dead nuts-zero: “Jeeze, thanks…”😅
The amount of work going into your locomotive is astonishing. Every step is tedious and has to be very accurate because of the scale. Can't imagine the full-size version being within a 16th of an inch. You're working within a thousandth of an inch just to keep it in scale. You would have been a super machinist in 1910. Great video, Quinn. Love your work and Chanel.
"Measured with tape, marked with chalk, cut with a torch" as the saying went when it came to cheap locomotive frames back in the day lol
Wow, those 22 minutes just flew by.
I've got your 22 minutes right here. Good vid Q. Thanks.
16:40 not only is it the perfect thickness for the job, it is also the "only" piece for the job 😂
Quinn, you could have made the steam chest according to the original print and, after finishing, then trimmed the outside edge to your new dimension. A lot less thinking and checking when machining.
Doh!
I've heard large steam power turbines refer to their control manifold as a 'steam chest' as well. Turbines don't have any valve timing like pistons though, they just use a valve in the steam chest as a throttle valve
Yep, the steam chest is just an area where the steam is gathered into the machine before distribution to the working areas. In a large turbine plant the steam chest is that part that contains the throttle valve up to the 1st stage nozzle inlets. It gets confusing.
In recip steam engines the chest almost always contains the valving. This model uses outside admission slide valve which means it functions as Quin describes. The picture of the "modern" steam engine, though, has an inside admission piston valve (there were rarely inside admission slide valves) so the operation is the same only significantly different. Poppet valve engines have both a steam chest and an exhaust chest. Lots of rabbit holes to explore.
Thank you
i like your teachings keep it up. i wish i could been there
I was just watching Keith Rucker's back catalogue and came across the rebuild of the Vulcan 0-4-0 at the museum he is part of. I was so pleased to be able to explain (in detail) to my partner why it had a flat top box above the cylinder rather that a cylindrical object. I was a bit disappointed in the lukewarm response🤷
Great session, as usual! Cheers!
Nice bit of handiwork as always.
if the covers dont seal, you might not even need to machine them down, might be able to get away with lapping them down with sandpaper. Though I suppose, any excuse to use the mill is a good one, haha
Thanks Quinn
another great saturday night video
I tells ya... over the years I've had a LOT of bosses I wanted to spin up on a lathe! While sticking something sharp into 'em.
Thankfully I only had teachers like this so far.
😂😂😂😂
@@marcusrauch4223
School prepares you for real life…
Which _also_ sucks.
@@marcusrauch4223
All in good time my precious, all in good time. Some bosses you want to stick in a box, then put that box in another box, then mail it to yourself and when it gets to you smash it flat with a mallet.
Really enjoy your channel. So clearly explained. I wonder why you don't use a shop vac to collect shavings? Blowing or brushing them off seems to be just another step. Thanks.
Quin talk about living on the edge. very good tips and tricks and things i would not of though of.
Great video Quinn , thank you for posting , I look forward to Saturday
that fit on the gauge pin in the piston bore was *pop* noice
When I heard "got a lot of milling to do now, so while that's running let me tell you a little about..." I was 100% expecting a sponsor read, really broke my brain for a second.
Was watching a vid the other day and they started talking about cooking in a way that sounded exactly like one of those ads for hello fresh or factor or whatever, only for them to say "which is why i'm so glad i have friends who know how to cook better than i do" and it gave me mental whiplash
Great video Quin, could you on the next steam engine video mention how many real hours you have in the built to that point?
Beautyful! Love your channel!
Fir the sealing surfaces of the cover plates, would it work to give them a few passes on a diamond stone?
Fantastic
You said radii! Hallelujah! I’m so tired of sitting here screaming at the screen “the multiple of radius is NOT radiuses”! Thank goodness there is someone else out there that knows
This is absolutely lovely! I am enjoying each episode.
So.... When do you start producing of a PRR K4? 😊
Nice!
It's always very satisfying to watch your videos.
And I am glad to see that "Because Shut Up, that's why..." has become a thing.
I laughed just reading it in the comments.
Love it!
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
When I look at how clean and centered that mill press spins… then I look at my clapped out Wen drill press chuck dance the fandango I have serious envy.
Of course I know it’s a cheap drill press and it works well enough for what I’m doing; my trailer lights really don’t care if they are a few tens of thousands off and some decorative black smithing is a whole other ball game.
This all said I am putting in a new floor in my work garage (gravel out, level cement in!) and in a few short years I’m migrating to machining as part of my 20 year retirement plan to work on steam rail roads
Nice! Very nice! Thanks!
is spool valve another term for a piston valve, or are they something different? i've only ever heard of piston valve when it comes to steam engines, spool valve is a completely new one to me
So steam engines are half stroke? Or single double stroke?
They are double-acting two stroke engines. Each side of the piston has intake/power and exhaust strokes, but as an external combustion engine there is no compression needed
Every stroke is a power stroke. So a two cylinder steam engine has the same number of power strokes per rotation as a V8 gasoline engine. Steam is extremely efficient.
FWIW, double acting Diesel engines have been constructed. Those engines too, used a "locked" piston rod, sealing gland, and cross head. For a deep dive into steam engine theory, check out Rankine cycle.
@@Blondihacks In some ways! In the efficiency trials run by various small gauge loco clubs you're doing well to get above 2%. Steam doesn't scale down well. So stoked to have this series, which started a couple of months after I bought Kozo's book.
I'm reminded of the still life by the classical Viennese artist, Swarfini, "Hole with Funny Angle"
What's a typical working lifespan for a steam engine like on the A-3 Switcher like?
They're very rebuildable. There are certainly 100+ yo locos still pulling people around today, though definitely not on their original boilers.
@@mhagnew Those are kind of tricky, I doubt they would have had the ongoing investments to keep the whole thing Theseusing along for their original purpose, facilitating profits. Even assuming technology stopped after the A-3 hit the market, eventually the added labor of disassembly, inspection, remachining, and replacement, would justify buying a new one instead. The steam locomotives still in service today can't be replaced because their value is in being historic.
I might not be the smartest, but I did not see the steam inlet passages into the steam chests?
4:30 - interrupted cut.
Would it have been easier to chop a cube off each end with the bandsaw to remove a chunk so the lathe tool wouldn't have to do all that work?
oh, asked and answered - maybe I should read the comments before posting.
Anyway, the algorithm might like it.
I was listening to a steam engine audiobook for reasons, and they mentioned how the nut that compressed the packing material around the shaft could be tightened and loosened to change the level of play that the shaft had as it moved through the cylinder. Is that something you lose when you move to O-rings? Does it not really matter?
I suspect, but cannot proove, that a well cut O-ring groove and ring would provide better sealing and less friction than a stuffing box, while being less tolerant of wear (which you can take up with the gland nut on a stuffing box). The exact width and depth of an O-ring groove is super important as it decides the crush on the shaft.
Is it possible to do an interrupted trepanning operation?
I had wondered the same, although it would require grinding a custom tool.
Brilliant as always, can't wait for next Sunday morning
They look outstanding! Running gear is really coming together now. This is a fantastic project Q
I love these videos. They are super satisfying to watch. I love you too. ❤❤❤😊 your friend from Connecticut
Hey Quinn, question for you. Do you find it's necessary to have drills that are ground specifically for brass, or do you just use the standard drills for it?
Drills are fairly inaccurate for hole size anyway, so I don't think it would require different cutting geometry as long as it still makes a hole. If it needs to be precise, you can always ream or bore it, but I think any drill will at least make a hole in it
@@joshclark44 If the drill point is ground correctly, and it's running true, it will drill quite close to size, and not wander. Keep feedrate conservative, and use cutting oil.
Hi Quinn! When you made the boiler, you were very careful to avoid brass getting in contact with steam, since the steam might leach the zinc out of the brass. Is that not an issue for the steam that reaches the steambox? Just asking for my own education, I have no clue about steam engines and first heart about dezincification from you.
As my understanding is yea brass will weaken over time due to that but I'm sure someone will know more than me m8
@@carlweatherley4883isn’t it phosphor bronze?
@@jc52984 not to sure m8 I was replying to the comment on brass
Also surprised by the brass plate covers in a live steam assembly. Dezincification is a real thing so I’m wondering if it was just a mistake (and it’s actually bronze plate) or whether the valve gear application allows brass perhaps because of the way it would fail is more controlled.
I was also curious as to whether a bandsaw reduction around the gland, or perhaps even a trapanning operation might have been worthwhile (the saw being the fastest method to remove material). There would still have been a lot of interrupted cut; but perhaps fewer hones.
If I had to guess, it is because the boiler is under high pressure all the time (you get what I mean), while the steam chests are under lower pressure, and only when the locomotive is moving.
None of my business I'm sure, but just curious, do you still work in the tech industry or is you tube your day job these days? I always enjoy and learn from your videos!
I think she's indicated in prior vids that she's gone full time YT/Patreon now. Good on her, and I'm a patron.
Nice job Blondie, good filming. Cheers from Sweden 🇸🇪
I'm getting back into machining after many years away. We have the same benchtop milling machine, it's great to see what you accomplish with it.
Looking studly
Is it ok to call a rectangle a square? Or is that a machining term not necessarily meaning a square square? Asking for a friend 😔
It's a case of making something square, ie at right angles and straight not necessarily a square shape
A square is just a special case of a rectangle, where all the sides are the same length.
Great video Quinn, the cylinders assemblies are looking beautiful.
A beautiful set of steam chests for your engine! Masterfully done, Quinn. 🙂
0:34 Drawing Copyright 2021? Did past Quinn already know present Quinn will blow the dimension, but thought it would be funny just to be quiet and watch? 😂
Probably didn't update the title block
Guess she printed that at the same time as the other drawing with a past date, she said she forgot to update the template at that time, so, same problem here.
@@JoshuaNicoll right....but now the flux capacitor thingy and the likes buzz just disappears in a puff of superheated cutting oil..
arouynd 5:20 long interrupted cut. Could one have made it easier for the tool by cutting away bulk of the material first? be it on bandsaw or other methods
Hi Quinn, love your videos and have been watching for over 3 years now. It was interesting to see how much the countersink bit deflected on the first hole in the cover when the video was at normal speed. Keep up the great work. Cheers Doc from downunder. :)
Just commenting to feed the algorithm Quinn. Best Wishes to You, Your Family and Friends...
Excellent presentation. Thank you. You used the end mill to create flat spots so that you could center punch and then drill. Why not just just use the end mill and drill the needed hole? This is pretty soft material with a fairly short drill path.
Wrong size
👍
Was this brass or bronze? I thought brass wasn't ok to use with steam due to zinc leaching?
That's only really a concern on parts that are directly connected to or in the boiler. In this case though it's case of old naming conventions confusing things but they'll be bronze as brass doesn't work well in cylinders as it is a horrendous bearing surface
@@gherkinisgreat - For the cylinders themselves, she said they were cast bronze, so my question is just about the steam chest and steam chest cover made in this video.
The steam chest has live steam in it, at similair pressures/temps as the boiler. So wouldn't dezincification still be an issue? Why would brass be bad in the boiler but ok in the steam chest? This is a genuine question, I don't know much about this and want to learn.
As to nomenclature, the steam chest and cover both look like brass to me in the video, based on the color, but sure, they could actually be bronze. But Quinn said "brass", at least for the cover, and she doesn't usually use the terms interchangeably. If this is actually bronze, maybe she'll let us know.
kool
9:58 - yup, I get it. And I'm sure it is. I hope you're able to take breaks sometimes (even if you do so by just pre-prepping videos and releasing them on a schedule, instead of producing them week by week).
Seeing people hold and machine things that are not round or eccentric in the lathe gives my brain the happy juice
Something, something shut up, thats why. Wonderful video Quinn, thanks, helps a lot!
Hi Quinn, awsome job!! But one thing that the video leaves me wonder is the use of brass for a part that will be in contact with hot steam instead of bronze. I heard somewherr (May be on your channel), that the zinc in the brass, gets corroded when exposed to hot steam, making the parts fail, while the tin in the bronze is not affected.
Only for boilers
@@Blondihacks Thank you!!!
👍😎
❤️🔥
Any day now someone will make a CNC controlled punch that uses a camera to automatically punch where two scribe lines cross.
The "eyecrometer" is working perfectly! 👍😁
My OCD on screw heads not being aligned has been triggered. I continue to really enjoy this series and hope to have a windfall one day where I can set up a mini machine shop to play along.
I saw the restoration of a classic wooden speed boat and all the screw heads on the hull planking were clocked in the same directiion as a fine detail.
Seems a shame to powder coat all that shiny brass. 😮
Never did any real machining besides of playing with a small Proxxon lathe for less than an hour total, so not qualified to give any wanted or unwanted advice, but watched dozens of your videos including both beginners series ..
Couldn't that first punchmark be done on the mill, too? With edge finding, DRO and a center drill? Just to know if I sometimes in the (probably quite far) future do find the space and time to get some machine tools.
My feeling is "this is good enough, and takes 10% of the time and no additional mill setup". Or is there another reason?
Loving the 'eyecrometer'.
Great work, really starting to come along. I just hate to see all that shiny brass covered up.
But that’s just me…
Perhaps next video close with showing the boiler in place too
Hi Quinn, when you center something in the four jaw chuck, I often (but not always) see you checking the angle as well. For the steam chests you didn't. How do you decide whether that step is neccessary?
Thanks for the great videos!
I was wondering this. Ultimately it comes down to how reliably does your 4-jaw clamp a part straight, and how accurate does it need to be. Here she's got some nicely squared stock with a decent length of flat material up against the jaws of the chuck. Using copper soft jaws will allow for a little bit of movement though. If it's off at all then the outcome will be a boss and bore that aren't quite coaxial with the cylinder bore. To a certain extent that can be compensated by some flex in the linkages. I'm guessing she didn't check here because she knows it's going to be good enough from experience.
If in doubt always worth checking though. . The usual technique of dialing in separately near the chuck wouldn't work here because she's centered on a punch mark, but could have done with an indicator attached to the carriage and moving it up and down a face to ensure no movement.
You are so inspiring!
One sayi g o heard a qhile ago is that Slide valves wear in, where as spool valves wear out.
I've been wondering if there were any reasonable way to detect the issue with the cylinder castings and offset the bore? How would you even know to check for it? If you had a time machine maybe?
Watching you Eyecrometer spot was like watching all that wildly offcentre universe going round the pole star.
I've got a feeling that the phrase "The surface looks good enough so I think it will be ok." is an ominous one. The maybe after assembly we'll be revisiting for a skim cut.
18:00 is when she says this
3:30 - You know you were being accurate when you have to center punch your center punch when center punching your drill.
2:25 intolerance with the dimensions….😂😂
What size vice you use on your mill ??
I think your copyright is a couple years out of date.
I may be the only one curious about this, but how heavy is it getting? It's probably the old man in me who wants to feel the heft of something everytime I add a bit more bulk to it. Maybe you could weigh it after 5 to 10 videos and give us an update.
Good video Blondihacks