so my trick for 01 is get it screaming hot (to the point where its non-magnetic) then quench in canola oil preheated to about 150f. after straight into temper at 425f for 2 hours twice with a cool down cycle in between. usually end up somewhere around high 50's on hrc scale. hope this helps in thr future. been loving all your videos. thanks for sharing your experience.
As others gave mentioned, you experienced decarb on the surface of the part which is why you were getting softer readings than anticipated. You can do an argon purge as others have suggested but you will blow through TONS of argon extremely quickly. A better alternative, and what is common in the knife making community is to seal the part in a stainless steel foil envelope and stick a 1"x1" piece if paper inside to consume any oxygen left inside the envelope when it ignites at high temperature. I'd also suggest using an air quenched steel like D2 rather than oil quenching. Air quenched steels experience significantly less warping and still hit 60+ HRC no problems.
Hey that is exactly what I do! I heat treat my (very clean/almost sterile) 17-4 and Maraging parts in stainless envelopes with a piece of paper. The heat tint is always a uniform gold and polishes up nice. Regarding his material choice I agree with an air hardening steel. We convinced one of our customers, huge aero company btw, to mainly design tooling with A2 in mind. It is incredibly stable and has minimal dimensional change post HT.
Can't he just use CO2? Dry ice is cheap after all and he doesn't need high pressures, all he needs is for the furnace atmosphere to be purged off oxygen Or would that introduce LOTS of carbon on the surface making it brittle
thats right air quenched steels tend to have less warps. I remember HT my first knifes in D2 with a VERY thin edge like 0.1mm, (by my misteke, knife edge schould be about 1.5-2mm thick on HT) i was sure that there are gonna be some serious waves in the edge but there was none and i was happily suprised.
I wasn't gonna say anything bc I figured it was for workload/flow reasons, but Im SO glad to see the voiceover style making more of a comeback. I love hearing your real-time riffs and all, but it just didn't really feel like that buttery smooth Inheritance Machining video without the narration. I love the balance of it in this video specifically.
Completely agree. Voiceover narration really makes many videos better IMO. Some people don't like it but for those there are other channels, and some creators make a second channel for an ASMR no voiceover version of the same video.
I'm a knife maker. Your softness could be a layer of decarb from all the heating cycles. Also you can sometimes straighten things in the temper if you make a jig and slightly over correct in the temper cycles.
I have seen drawings of "quench press" components for bevel gears. I guess when they got heat treated they went wavy or something bad, hence the need to make a couple of pieces of steel to help the gear stay in shape during quenching.
@@fletchro789 for my knives it's as simple as a couple pieces of round stock tacked to a piece of flat stock and a c clamp. The whole thing goes right into the temper oven.
I've seen Alec Steele do a clamped temper and hardening where the end product is clamped in between 2 plates of steel . Id say he should try the stainless and clamp it when he tries again
I'm sure I speak for all of us in saying "when you have to do it again we want a video of it!" also I got a kick at how you custom built that beautiful oven and then still jerryrig it for the main task you built it for, what a hoot. (though if you told someone you had just bought the thing somewhere they would believe you, the quality of that thing looks great on video at least)
You definitely have decarb on the surface, which is why it's measuring soft. If you measure the faces you ground after hardening, you should find they are harder than what you previously measured. Next time coat it with an anti scale compound, or rig up argon to flow through the kiln to protect the steel every time you heat it up.
Just wrapping it in steel foil would probably be enough to avoid decarburizing. With a little bit of something to burn off what little oxygen is in the steel envelope. I have a feeling that the argon flow is the more fun solution, tho! :P
I am not a professional heat treat guy but when they tried to teach us in college, we would wrap critical parts in stainless steel foil before putting them in the oven. This limits the oxygen that can access the part to cause surface damage and creates a carbon rich environment around the part to limit how much carbon leaches out of the part while it gets up to temperature.
Make sure you get actual heat treating oil like parks 50. Canola oil is not a proper alternative. Different steels also need different speed ratings for the oil, but most should work fine with the one mentioned. I'd recommend the book by Dr Larrin Thomas on heat treatment.
Well, I mean, if you want peak absolute performance, heat treating oils are needed, but it should not return 40HRC after heat treatment, something really did go really wrong.
You have no idea how helpful it is to see an actually experienced machinist making dumb mistakes. Gives me the motivation to keep going with my projects
Totally agree. I'm in the middle of some motorbike projects and it's absolutely full of frustrating mistakes.... But seeing his approaches to mistakes really does inspire me to find other ways to either make something or rig something to make something work
... As an electronics guy - confirm with an gun that someone isn't lying to you (your temperature measurement for the oven). You could also have temperature drift and issues whether your not heat treating consistently as well as you think.
I'm so glad that you've came back to voiceovers. I really find your vids extremely calming and you are one of few that can do it (looking at NileRed and Blacktail studio)
@Nathan_Whaley-g8m Not sure why a cross slide lead screw for a manually operated lathe would need to be hardened. Sure it would be nice, but not necessary.
@@owngamesgamer4030Thanks I learned a new word. Had to look up Chatoyancy. But apparently that describes the band you see moving on a surface when you rotate it away from you. These are simply u-shaped milling or burnishing marks that rusted to look like wood grain.
A few remarks with you bendy issue: You can straighten steels immediately (10 seconds) after hardening, you should also keep them in a fixture until they are at room temp. So the process would be heat treat until quench, then out from the oil when they are at about 200°C, then into a straightening jig until they are cool (Time window for this is ~5 seconds after quench to ~40 seconds after quench for the straightening attempt, after that it has to be left to cool down to room temperature without any further straightening), then temper. I would highly recommend tempering with the jig, the jig can also be used to correct warps in the shaft during the tempering process by shimming and bending the shaft on the jig during tempering.
I really love how your Videos are history that is being completed on our eyes. Most channels just do random builds, your channel shows an adventure towards completing one big build.
This is your best video. The engineering process is not easy nor does one regularly get it right the first time. I love that you are forced to compromise on what you want vs what your limitations will allow you to have. Thank you for making this video and if you are forced to do it again, please post the video so we can continue to learn with you.
Also coming from a knifemakers background if you are heat treating something that large in oil you need to be using a commercial heat treatment oil. You can get away with smaller parts in cooking oil but will get inconsistent results with larger items in cooking oil. Order some parks 50 or AAA from a knife supply company.
Your kilns controller is a decent one, but it does need the calibration subroutine running a half dozen times once installed to get it calibrated correctly for temperature. That's likely why you're seeing results of low hardness, get a cheap IR thermometer (mine was about 40 i think and can read upto 900c, very accurately which is a bit surprising given the cost) to verify the temperature
After tempering you have a few minutes gap whean you can bend back the part. You can also do some kind of a form to keep the part as straight as you can while tempering and it should technically stay like that.
Glad it managed to work out despite the hassle it's been. For the warping, I think there are really only a few things you might be able to do to prevent the issue. Annealing and/or stress relieving before starting the process should help, but the biggest thing I could think of is to have some sort of fixture to hold the shaft in position as the grain structure forms. That would ideally be something you can set the shaft in as it is quenched, but if you're fast you might also be able to clamp the part immediately after the quench while the crystalline structure starts to form. That's easier said than done though.
Hi Brandon at 14:58 the bronze looks like that because it is continuosly extrusion cast. A ram pushes an amount of bronze into a cooling die, allows it to chill a bit, and then forces more molten metal in. normally the extrusion is round , this bar looks like it was milled to rectangular shape. At 00:27 no wise man has ever said let the scale fix it. In a CNC machine ballscrew for example .001" of backlash is considered broken.
After challenges you're supposed to completely "win" in the end! That's basic to crafting the narrative. Thanks for showing reality. A refreshing change and I'm sure helpful for all of those who try and fail to replicate what many on RUclips appear to do. And obviously a fine choice as it works well for BlackTail Studios too! Winning is good, but so is humility. Combining the two is even better. Also valuable is knowing when something is "good enough".
I love this channel. I stumbled upon it the day before I had nose surgery about a year ago. The day after, my grandma passed away. This channel helped me through some pretty hard times emotionally. Thank you for all you do.
Should have shown what the backlash was before incase someone didnt remember. I do and your new part might be bent like an old man's spine but at least there isn't any backlash. One hell of a part to make, I thought about making a new one for my lathe after watching your first video showing how bad yours was and checking mine but the last couple of videos have steered me to just bite the bullet and buy a new one for my lathe ( I'm still able to find them for my shop's lathe 😀) and saving myself several headaches. Love your work I'm glad you decided to record them and post them all for us to learn and enjoy.
1) Add a gas purge to your kiln, just a stainless tube coming in from the outside to slowly pump in argon so the scale buildup is smaller and also lower decarb. 2) "Wood grain" on the stock comes from the process of manufacturing, where they aren't making the profile continous, but in sections, so they extrude a part, add more metal and extrude a bit more, each stop makes a visible boundary
Tempering doesn't remove bowing on it's own. It relieves the stress and makes it warp however it is going to warp. That is when you fix it, then harden it If you decide to do something like this again consider encasing the part and surrounding it with charcoal, or an inert gas like Argon to avoid scaling. If the part is not getting as hard as it should be, consider case hardening.
I just wanted to say thank you for this entire channel - you've convinced me to learn manual drafting and it's easily become one of my favorite hobbies to plan things out on paper before going to a manual mill / lathe. It's been a much more enjoyable experience to have an extended vacation from my entirely digital life into a series of "no screens around" types of hobbies.
I agree, manual drafting is fun. I have an old Popular Mechanics book, by William F Willard, that is a very good home practice book, "The Art of Mechanical Drawing".
Consider yourself fortunate for having a video reference of the nuances of the experience, who’s shelf life will surely have expired, by the time you have to do this again…
I think I've figured it out. This channel is superslowmat Similar to superfastmat, but if he took the meds, lived a slower paced life and had a loving wife.
Brandon - you are one patient dude! I'm so glad that you FINALLY made an acceptable leadscrew, after so many heart-wrenching setbacks. Just goes to show how persistence pays off!
If you redo that part, please make a video about it. The level of precision that you typically go for makes it feel like this is an incomplete job. BTW, where is the box of shame?
Always switch off the main power switch before you reach into the furnace.If an SSR fails ( they almost never fail both at once ) and becomes permanently closed (the probability of that happening is not high, but also not zero), the coils will be connected to one phase until you switch off the main power switch. Nice video as always :)
I would also recommend using A2 tool steel in the future for other parts like this (requiring lots of dimensional stability after heat treat). You just take it out of the oven and let it cool to room temp (no quenching) before tempering, so there's very little internal stress. This project is an unbelievable PITA and I commend you sticking to it for us!
If it does happen again please make another video about it. This is not boring at all in fact I think videos that show huge mistakes and every single thing that was done to make the mistake and resolve it is incredibly valuable an entertaining and I'll watch every single one of them multiple times.
This shows, never give up when you start a project. You made up your mind before starting it and you where shure you could make it. Great work and thank you for all the great videos. It makes me believe more in my self that I can do it when I start a project. Thanks.
IIRC there is an old writers rule, that once you get published, you can start playing fast and loose with grammar and structure. (Think Tennessee Williams) Applying this adage to machining, I'd say once this lead screw goes kaput, you could just order a length of ground leadscrew, and then machine and pin/loctite the drive/gear portion of the leadscrew in place. You have earned an easy button sir.
Brandon, we need more videos, the sheer joy in watching your interesting machining mistakes is fabulous. It's like tuning in and watching an apprentice looking for the left-handed micrometer or a bucket of steam. Please include your lovely wife in all the vids from now on, she is so funny, it's like she is your forman criticizing your work she is a content machine. Don't give up you do somethings very nice and I always check your channel to see if there are any new side projects.
Just perfect. Friday evening, hard week at work behind, free weekend ahead, just finished sauna session, few after sauna beers done and feeling a little tipsy. Now some good food, more beer and 20min of soothing content. Just how i like to spend my friday evening.
Thank you Brandon !! You made my day with this one. I had thee most difficult time making my lead-screw for my lathe and it was so satisfying seeing you maneuvering through the exact same challenges I went through. I felt like such a backyard shade tree bubba after my experience. But seeing you make yours, and the amount of respect I have for you and your machining capabilities makes me feel like a normal human again. Glad to see you got results. And don’t worry man, when you do go back and remake it We will certainly be here to watch it. And If I know you at all, you will be revisiting this process soon enough.. lol We taking bets on how many nights you lose sleep over it until the decision is made.. haha 🤣 Cheers 🍻
When this one wears out, would starting with a MUCH larger diameter bar (with enough excess length so you can use the follower rest through the entire threading/machining length without risking hitting the live center) and stress relieving it, heat treating it and annealing it BEFORE you start machining it to size and cutting the threads be more likely to result in a properly hardened and STRAIGHT Lead Screw? I know machining a hardened bar would be harder because you can't take heavy cuts, but if it's big enough, you can just machine out any bowing that happened in the Tempering Process... Either that or when you Heat Treat and Temper the next one, do it with your oven on it's feet and use a full length V-Brick to support it's entire length instead of 2 or 3 small V-bricks that just support the ends and middle, that should (I theory) prevent it from resembling a Banana after cooking it on it's side like the first one did...
I discovered your channel from your kiln video and have binged nearly your whole back catalog in the weeks since. It was exciting to see this project conclude so well.
I worked on something similar last year, had so many problems it was driving me nuts! But that's just how it is, just keep on truckin' and the reward is knowledge you will never forget. Just imagine how they figured out heat treatment way back in Babylonian times!
I had to make a part once. Actually 7 times. Blew right past 3rd times a charm and like Forrest Gump, "I just kept on going" Sometimes one must fail in the most miserable and annoying ways to succeed. Remember, it's NOT what you've done. It's what you've seen done. We have seen you do a lot. I don't mean that in a condescending way at all. You have shared your failures and shortcomings freely with us all. Trust me someone will have seen something in one or more of your videos and will say "I saw that guy do that once(okay maybe twice) and it worked for him, maybe THAT will work for what I need to do. Without failure there would be no success. Where's the fun in that?
i have no idea why the brass looked like wood BUT i can try speculate i feel like the saw they used was dull adding periodic marks on the surfice creating chatoyancy which very often shows up on wood
Its from the way the brass is made to shape, its extruded brass, when they make it, the cylinder that pushes the metal through the form operates periodically, allowing it to cool, then hot when the die gets filled with molten metal.
If you normalize steel just leave it in the oven, turn it off and walk away for the day and let it slowly cool down in the oven. The second you pull it out when its hot it can slightly case harden and can cause warps. Fixing warps with a tempering cycle works pretty good if you have a decent fixture to clamp it under some preload. Doing 2 1 hour tempering cycles gives the option to change preloads and bend it back straight. Had a 30 cm knife that had almost 10mm of bow in it, was dead straight again after 2 tempering cycles under preload.
Welcome back. I am interested in a lot of things, also on RUclips but I am always looking forward to your work - not only interesting but also funny and entertaining.
Have lots of 3D printers and - boy do I have experience with this. You can completely take the force impact out of the leadscrew wobble by letting it float on 2 times 2 times 2 steel balls on magnets. (1 Set for the screw, 1 set for the anti backlash). Alternatively you can just use 9mm GT2 timing belts - you can use them like pully thus doubeling both precision and stiffness. However on closer inspection they have stiffness and precion problems on extemely large distances.
You said you wouldn't make a new video about it if you happen to need to make a new one, but please do! It's so interesting to see the progress and get updates on how things are working, like when you modify or make a new tool. A short analysis about why is also very interesting, like if it's because it's not hard enough! Thanks for the video, I've been so curious about the progress :D
I don't think I'd ever have the patience to be a machinist. Having to start over, and redo everything up to that point to correct a mistake, would dishearten me to the point of giving up :
Hey man, don't worry. It works fine, even if it's not perfect. We both know you'll pick that project back up in the future and are gonna nail it with hardness. We all learn along different projects
Congratulations! This is such a milestone in a project like that! I was REALLY surprised that amount of runout didn't impact how the handle felt throughout the whole length of travel! You've endured the unendurable!
If it breaks I better see another video about it. I found your channel a few weeks ago and I cannot get enough. I have been watching every single video.
It looked like wood because of the manufacturing process. It’s a continuous casting. Molten is poured in the top of the mold and the billet slowly comes out the bottom.
Ive taken apart machines before... Not all shafts are hardened, a lathe leadscrew can also just be made of some chrome-moly steel without tempering. In a hobby shop it will still last a lifetime. Did you support the material when it was all chucked up in the lathe? Like with bushings or a spider? Tht would help a lot to not machine a bow in it or get non concentric features when chucked at different lengths. But if you got a working part, all is well ...
Embracing imferpection is one of the easiest lessons to throw around in theory, and by far the hardest to actually do. I've been attempting to actually do it for years myself. It takes an almost jedi-like level of inner don't-give-a-f to actually let yourself do an intentionally half assed job.
Lol, i remake all my leadscrews dude. But i got my steady and follow rests working when i bought it. "Didnt have any guts just the frames" Now hardening them? Now thats next level:)
Keep your butt happy with up to 47% off your favorite Ridge products at ridge.com/inheritance
Love your videos man!
You shaking your butt wasn't on my 2024 bingo card
You know what could solve the warpage issues? Magic Nut the thing with some loctite lol.
so my trick for 01 is get it screaming hot (to the point where its non-magnetic) then quench in canola oil preheated to about 150f. after straight into temper at 425f for 2 hours twice with a cool down cycle in between. usually end up somewhere around high 50's on hrc scale. hope this helps in thr future. been loving all your videos. thanks for sharing your experience.
I’m pretty straight but that’s a great butt.
It's normal for the shaft to sometimes not get hard. It happens to everyone man.
also, a slight bend is beautiful and natural
😄
LOL...how to wipe/clean round machined parts and not look weird.
It may be short! But it sure is skinny!
They have pills for that sort of thing.
As others gave mentioned, you experienced decarb on the surface of the part which is why you were getting softer readings than anticipated. You can do an argon purge as others have suggested but you will blow through TONS of argon extremely quickly. A better alternative, and what is common in the knife making community is to seal the part in a stainless steel foil envelope and stick a 1"x1" piece if paper inside to consume any oxygen left inside the envelope when it ignites at high temperature.
I'd also suggest using an air quenched steel like D2 rather than oil quenching. Air quenched steels experience significantly less warping and still hit 60+ HRC no problems.
Hey that is exactly what I do! I heat treat my (very clean/almost sterile) 17-4 and Maraging parts in stainless envelopes with a piece of paper. The heat tint is always a uniform gold and polishes up nice.
Regarding his material choice I agree with an air hardening steel. We convinced one of our customers, huge aero company btw, to mainly design tooling with A2 in mind. It is incredibly stable and has minimal dimensional change post HT.
Can't he just use CO2? Dry ice is cheap after all and he doesn't need high pressures, all he needs is for the furnace atmosphere to be purged off oxygen
Or would that introduce LOTS of carbon on the surface making it brittle
thats right air quenched steels tend to have less warps. I remember HT my first knifes in D2 with a VERY thin edge like 0.1mm, (by my misteke, knife edge schould be about 1.5-2mm thick on HT) i was sure that there are gonna be some serious waves in the edge but there was none and i was happily suprised.
Very true. A2 would be a much better choice.
Very insightful! Thank you good sir!
I know that you prefer the new live story telling style from the recent videos but damn am I so happy to see the old editing style back thank you
🙏
Yeah me too, I can enjoy both but the old style ist what made me fall in love with the channel
100% agree with this
I wasn't gonna say anything bc I figured it was for workload/flow reasons, but Im SO glad to see the voiceover style making more of a comeback. I love hearing your real-time riffs and all, but it just didn't really feel like that buttery smooth Inheritance Machining video without the narration. I love the balance of it in this video specifically.
🙏
Completely agree. Voiceover narration really makes many videos better IMO. Some people don't like it but for those there are other channels, and some creators make a second channel for an ASMR no voiceover version of the same video.
I'm a knife maker. Your softness could be a layer of decarb from all the heating cycles. Also you can sometimes straighten things in the temper if you make a jig and slightly over correct in the temper cycles.
Exactly what I was thinking. although, straightening a round object surely isnt easy!
I have seen drawings of "quench press" components for bevel gears. I guess when they got heat treated they went wavy or something bad, hence the need to make a couple of pieces of steel to help the gear stay in shape during quenching.
@@fletchro789 for my knives it's as simple as a couple pieces of round stock tacked to a piece of flat stock and a c clamp. The whole thing goes right into the temper oven.
I've seen Alec Steele do a clamped temper and hardening where the end product is clamped in between 2 plates of steel . Id say he should try the stainless and clamp it when he tries again
I'm sure I speak for all of us in saying "when you have to do it again we want a video of it!"
also I got a kick at how you custom built that beautiful oven and then still jerryrig it for the main task you built it for, what a hoot.
(though if you told someone you had just bought the thing somewhere they would believe you, the quality of that thing looks great on video at least)
You definitely have decarb on the surface, which is why it's measuring soft. If you measure the faces you ground after hardening, you should find they are harder than what you previously measured. Next time coat it with an anti scale compound, or rig up argon to flow through the kiln to protect the steel every time you heat it up.
Just wrapping it in steel foil would probably be enough to avoid decarburizing. With a little bit of something to burn off what little oxygen is in the steel envelope.
I have a feeling that the argon flow is the more fun solution, tho! :P
I'm reminded of This Old Tony's foray into a heat treatment oven, and he bought a simple kit that allowed the flow of argon into his oven.
I am not a professional heat treat guy but when they tried to teach us in college, we would wrap critical parts in stainless steel foil before putting them in the oven. This limits the oxygen that can access the part to cause surface damage and creates a carbon rich environment around the part to limit how much carbon leaches out of the part while it gets up to temperature.
Make sure you get actual heat treating oil like parks 50. Canola oil is not a proper alternative. Different steels also need different speed ratings for the oil, but most should work fine with the one mentioned. I'd recommend the book by Dr Larrin Thomas on heat treatment.
Well, I mean, if you want peak absolute performance, heat treating oils are needed, but it should not return 40HRC after heat treatment, something really did go really wrong.
@@blovarsk1069Probably just decarb, should be hard under the surface, which is pointless in this case...
@@LSknivesofficial Good point, this part should benefit from "case hardening" if anything. But since it's a hobby shop, I doubt it needs that even.
You have no idea how helpful it is to see an actually experienced machinist making dumb mistakes. Gives me the motivation to keep going with my projects
It's the ones that make the "dumb mistakes" that become "experienced".
Totally agree. I'm in the middle of some motorbike projects and it's absolutely full of frustrating mistakes.... But seeing his approaches to mistakes really does inspire me to find other ways to either make something or rig something to make something work
... As an electronics guy - confirm with an gun that someone isn't lying to you (your temperature measurement for the oven). You could also have temperature drift and issues whether your not heat treating consistently as well as you think.
"Enough foreplay, let's put it in" .... I'm definitely going to use that line with my lady tonight
14:00 "Literally post quench the shaft just isn't getting hard" lmao.
make sure you polish that shaft before putting it in
@@iuliancalin22 I wouldn't use diamond paste.
"If i have a shaft that's bent, it damn well be hard."
I'm so glad that you've came back to voiceovers. I really find your vids extremely calming and you are one of few that can do it (looking at NileRed and Blacktail studio)
🙏
Second this
Too funny. I was just redoing the exact same part. Only ran into your video by chance, wasn't looking lol
Do yourself a favor and don't try and harden it.
@Nathan_Whaley-g8m Not sure why a cross slide lead screw for a manually operated lathe would need to be hardened. Sure it would be nice, but not necessary.
@@BillyBob-si2db I probably should have mentioned in the video but the original screw was at ~HRC50 so I was aiming for that. Poorly I might add haha
@InheritanceMachining Your videos are awesome, and you do a fantastic job. Keep it up.
Google knows ooooooooo
It’s gotta be said: This is one of the best channels on RUclips. It is criminal that the sub count ends in a K and not an M
Me: That's some interesting looking wood.
"Someone, please tell me why that looks like wood."
Oh
i legit thought it was a pen turning blank at first
same
same all the chatoyancy just tricks the shit out of your brain
@@owngamesgamer4030Thanks I learned a new word. Had to look up Chatoyancy. But apparently that describes the band you see moving on a surface when you rotate it away from you. These are simply u-shaped milling or burnishing marks that rusted to look like wood grain.
A few remarks with you bendy issue: You can straighten steels immediately (10 seconds) after hardening, you should also keep them in a fixture until they are at room temp.
So the process would be heat treat until quench,
then out from the oil when they are at about 200°C,
then into a straightening jig until they are cool (Time window for this is ~5 seconds after quench to ~40 seconds after quench for the straightening attempt, after that it has to be left to cool down to room temperature without any further straightening),
then temper.
I would highly recommend tempering with the jig, the jig can also be used to correct warps in the shaft during the tempering process by shimming and bending the shaft on the jig during tempering.
I really love how your Videos are history that is being completed on our eyes. Most channels just do random builds, your channel shows an adventure towards completing one big build.
"I did not ask you for your guidance, I asked you for an audience."
That cracked me up harder than I've laughed in quite a while.
This is your best video. The engineering process is not easy nor does one regularly get it right the first time. I love that you are forced to compromise on what you want vs what your limitations will allow you to have. Thank you for making this video and if you are forced to do it again, please post the video so we can continue to learn with you.
i presonnaly like watching the redoing of the same part with an improved process each time,its like watching learning happen
Also coming from a knifemakers background if you are heat treating something that large in oil you need to be using a commercial heat treatment oil. You can get away with smaller parts in cooking oil but will get inconsistent results with larger items in cooking oil. Order some parks 50 or AAA from a knife supply company.
Your kilns controller is a decent one, but it does need the calibration subroutine running a half dozen times once installed to get it calibrated correctly for temperature. That's likely why you're seeing results of low hardness, get a cheap IR thermometer (mine was about 40 i think and can read upto 900c, very accurately which is a bit surprising given the cost) to verify the temperature
After tempering you have a few minutes gap whean you can bend back the part. You can also do some kind of a form to keep the part as straight as you can while tempering and it should technically stay like that.
What happens with the steel after a few minutes?
@@CandidZulu its not gonna be as "bendable" and just might crack.
As others have said, shim tempering your part would likely remove some of your bow and is a technique commonly used in the knife industry
Glad it managed to work out despite the hassle it's been. For the warping, I think there are really only a few things you might be able to do to prevent the issue. Annealing and/or stress relieving before starting the process should help, but the biggest thing I could think of is to have some sort of fixture to hold the shaft in position as the grain structure forms. That would ideally be something you can set the shaft in as it is quenched, but if you're fast you might also be able to clamp the part immediately after the quench while the crystalline structure starts to form. That's easier said than done though.
Hi Brandon at 14:58 the bronze looks like that because it is continuosly extrusion cast. A ram pushes an amount of bronze into a cooling die,
allows it to chill a bit, and then forces more molten metal in. normally the extrusion is round , this bar looks like it was milled to rectangular shape.
At 00:27 no wise man has ever said let the scale fix it. In a CNC machine ballscrew for example .001" of backlash is considered broken.
I did not know this!
After challenges you're supposed to completely "win" in the end! That's basic to crafting the narrative. Thanks for showing reality. A refreshing change and I'm sure helpful for all of those who try and fail to replicate what many on RUclips appear to do. And obviously a fine choice as it works well for BlackTail Studios too! Winning is good, but so is humility. Combining the two is even better. Also valuable is knowing when something is "good enough".
Don’t worry I would still watch you make another one
next time he would probably make a totally new cross-slide, can choose any thread he wants, maybe with 2 "simpler" shafts (if that is possible)
I love this channel. I stumbled upon it the day before I had nose surgery about a year ago. The day after, my grandma passed away. This channel helped me through some pretty hard times emotionally. Thank you for all you do.
Should have shown what the backlash was before incase someone didnt remember. I do and your new part might be bent like an old man's spine but at least there isn't any backlash. One hell of a part to make, I thought about making a new one for my lathe after watching your first video showing how bad yours was and checking mine but the last couple of videos have steered me to just bite the bullet and buy a new one for my lathe ( I'm still able to find them for my shop's lathe 😀) and saving myself several headaches. Love your work I'm glad you decided to record them and post them all for us to learn and enjoy.
1) Add a gas purge to your kiln, just a stainless tube coming in from the outside to slowly pump in argon so the scale buildup is smaller and also lower decarb.
2) "Wood grain" on the stock comes from the process of manufacturing, where they aren't making the profile continous, but in sections, so they extrude a part, add more metal and extrude a bit more, each stop makes a visible boundary
Welcome to my world. I work with machines so old I have to make the replacement parts so I'm used to seeing this kind of work done.
Congratulations and best regards 😊.
Yeah...machines so old, you aren't in posession of them, you are only the current User...
Yes, the long music intro is backkk
Tempering doesn't remove bowing on it's own. It relieves the stress and makes it warp however it is going to warp. That is when you fix it, then harden it
If you decide to do something like this again consider encasing the part and surrounding it with charcoal, or an inert gas like Argon to avoid scaling. If the part is not getting as hard as it should be, consider case hardening.
I just wanted to say thank you for this entire channel - you've convinced me to learn manual drafting and it's easily become one of my favorite hobbies to plan things out on paper before going to a manual mill / lathe. It's been a much more enjoyable experience to have an extended vacation from my entirely digital life into a series of "no screens around" types of hobbies.
I agree, manual drafting is fun. I have an old Popular Mechanics book, by William F Willard, that is a very good home practice book, "The Art of Mechanical Drawing".
Consider yourself fortunate for having a video reference of the nuances of the experience, who’s shelf life will surely have expired, by the time you have to do this again…
Man I love your content. The great editing, your humour and seeing you overcome challenges as I strive to do as a machinist as well, I love it!
I think I've figured it out.
This channel is superslowmat
Similar to superfastmat, but if he took the meds, lived a slower paced life and had a loving wife.
Brandon - you are one patient dude! I'm so glad that you FINALLY made an acceptable leadscrew, after so many heart-wrenching setbacks. Just goes to show how persistence pays off!
Often, it's not about it making sense (practically, economically, temporally) to do something, it's about how doing it makes you feel.
This Lead screw "side project" is an absolut fever dream
I'm here for the struggle and the learning so I would be interested to see how you finally make a new lead screw when it comes to it.
If you redo that part, please make a video about it. The level of precision that you typically go for makes it feel like this is an incomplete job. BTW, where is the box of shame?
Always switch off the main power switch before you reach into the furnace.If an SSR fails ( they almost never fail both at once ) and becomes permanently closed (the probability of that happening is not high, but also not zero), the coils will be connected to one phase until you switch off the main power switch. Nice video as always :)
I would also recommend using A2 tool steel in the future for other parts like this (requiring lots of dimensional stability after heat treat). You just take it out of the oven and let it cool to room temp (no quenching) before tempering, so there's very little internal stress.
This project is an unbelievable PITA and I commend you sticking to it for us!
I'm laughing out loud watching you make your own gear cutters from scratch yet you can't be bothered to use a funnel to pour the oil in that tube LMAO
You were rapidly reaching, in southern parlance, "Bless [his] heart" levels of oof in that video.
Lord have mercy...
If it does happen again please make another video about it. This is not boring at all in fact I think videos that show huge mistakes and every single thing that was done to make the mistake and resolve it is incredibly valuable an entertaining and I'll watch every single one of them multiple times.
This shows, never give up when you start a project. You made up your mind before starting it and you where shure you could make it. Great work and thank you for all the great videos. It makes me believe more in my self that I can do it when I start a project. Thanks.
IIRC there is an old writers rule, that once you get published, you can start playing fast and loose with grammar and structure. (Think Tennessee Williams) Applying this adage to machining, I'd say once this lead screw goes kaput, you could just order a length of ground leadscrew, and then machine and pin/loctite the drive/gear portion of the leadscrew in place. You have earned an easy button sir.
Brandon, we need more videos, the sheer joy in watching your interesting machining mistakes is fabulous. It's like tuning in and watching an apprentice looking for the left-handed micrometer or a bucket of steam. Please include your lovely wife in all the vids from now on, she is so funny, it's like she is your forman criticizing your work she is a content machine. Don't give up you do somethings very nice and I always check your channel to see if there are any new side projects.
Your frustration is palpable and contagious. Nice work and perseverance.
Thank you for showing your mistakes. I have always appreciated it. It has helped me a lot with my negative attitude when I scrap parts.
Just perfect. Friday evening, hard week at work behind, free weekend ahead, just finished sauna session, few after sauna beers done and feeling a little tipsy. Now some good food, more beer and 20min of soothing content. Just how i like to spend my friday evening.
You make me feel better about how much I redo in my shop. Thank you for doing what you do and posting how you post.
I kind of missed the older format of your videos, and I am glad to see it coming back here!
Thank you Brandon !!
You made my day with this one. I had thee most difficult time making my lead-screw for my lathe and it was so satisfying seeing you maneuvering through the exact same challenges I went through. I felt like such a backyard shade tree bubba after my experience. But seeing you make yours, and the amount of respect I have for you and your machining capabilities makes me feel like a normal human again. Glad to see you got results.
And don’t worry man, when you do go back and remake it We will certainly be here to watch it. And If I know you at all, you will be revisiting this process soon enough.. lol
We taking bets on how many nights you lose sleep over it until the decision is made..
haha 🤣
Cheers 🍻
Mistakes are just an opportunity for additional content
When this one wears out, would starting with a MUCH larger diameter bar (with enough excess length so you can use the follower rest through the entire threading/machining length without risking hitting the live center) and stress relieving it, heat treating it and annealing it BEFORE you start machining it to size and cutting the threads be more likely to result in a properly hardened and STRAIGHT Lead Screw?
I know machining a hardened bar would be harder because you can't take heavy cuts, but if it's big enough, you can just machine out any bowing that happened in the Tempering Process...
Either that or when you Heat Treat and Temper the next one, do it with your oven on it's feet and use a full length V-Brick to support it's entire length instead of 2 or 3 small V-bricks that just support the ends and middle, that should (I theory) prevent it from resembling a Banana after cooking it on it's side like the first one did...
This is the best day ever, you had finally restored the lathe, while Curtis from cutting edge engineering made a fantastic welding station.
Your ads are my favorite of any channel. The videos as a whole are what I look forward to most on RUclips.
It's so satisfying seeing all the previous episodes tools being used to finish this
I discovered your channel from your kiln video and have binged nearly your whole back catalog in the weeks since. It was exciting to see this project conclude so well.
I worked on something similar last year, had so many problems it was driving me nuts! But that's just how it is, just keep on truckin' and the reward is knowledge you will never forget. Just imagine how they figured out heat treatment way back in Babylonian times!
end of a saga, I enjoyed the heck out of all the side projects leading up to the final leed screw.
I had to make a part once. Actually 7 times. Blew right past 3rd times a charm and like Forrest Gump, "I just kept on going" Sometimes one must fail in the most miserable and annoying ways to succeed. Remember, it's NOT what you've done. It's what you've seen done. We have seen you do a lot. I don't mean that in a condescending way at all. You have shared your failures and shortcomings freely with us all. Trust me someone will have seen something in one or more of your videos and will say "I saw that guy do that once(okay maybe twice) and it worked for him, maybe THAT will work for what I need to do. Without failure there would be no success. Where's the fun in that?
i have no idea why the brass looked like wood
BUT i can try speculate
i feel like the saw they used was dull adding periodic marks on the surfice creating chatoyancy which very often shows up on wood
Its from the way the brass is made to shape, its extruded brass, when they make it, the cylinder that pushes the metal through the form operates periodically, allowing it to cool, then hot when the die gets filled with molten metal.
If you normalize steel just leave it in the oven, turn it off and walk away for the day and let it slowly cool down in the oven.
The second you pull it out when its hot it can slightly case harden and can cause warps.
Fixing warps with a tempering cycle works pretty good if you have a decent fixture to clamp it under some preload.
Doing 2 1 hour tempering cycles gives the option to change preloads and bend it back straight.
Had a 30 cm knife that had almost 10mm of bow in it, was dead straight again after 2 tempering cycles under preload.
Welcome back. I am interested in a lot of things, also on RUclips but I am always looking forward to your work - not only interesting but also funny and entertaining.
"On the next one, we're just going to take care of it offscreen. MOVIE MAGIC!!"
i used to make them all the time for portable boring bars, some were 12' long, 1144 stress proof material works perfect
Have lots of 3D printers and - boy do I have experience with this. You can completely take the force impact out of the leadscrew wobble by letting it float on 2 times 2 times 2 steel balls on magnets. (1 Set for the screw, 1 set for the anti backlash). Alternatively you can just use 9mm GT2 timing belts - you can use them like pully thus doubeling both precision and stiffness. However on closer inspection they have stiffness and precion problems on extemely large distances.
You said you wouldn't make a new video about it if you happen to need to make a new one, but please do! It's so interesting to see the progress and get updates on how things are working, like when you modify or make a new tool. A short analysis about why is also very interesting, like if it's because it's not hard enough! Thanks for the video, I've been so curious about the progress :D
THE MUSIC IS BACK!!!!! MY ASMR is off the charts this morning.
I don't think I'd ever have the patience to be a machinist. Having to start over, and redo everything up to that point to correct a mistake, would dishearten me to the point of giving up :
And then some of the materials, like that high carbon steel shaft, cost a fortune.
When I see that you drop a video, I truly get excited. You have created something really special here.
Practice makes perfect, they say…
"I did a whole lot of nothing". This project almost drove this man to the point of no return of insanity. 😤😤😤😤
Hey man, don't worry. It works fine, even if it's not perfect. We both know you'll pick that project back up in the future and are gonna nail it with hardness. We all learn along different projects
The amounts of patience and perseverance.....STOP SHOWING OF DUDE!!!
This is the one I've been patiently waiting for! Finish it!
Congratulations! This is such a milestone in a project like that! I was REALLY surprised that amount of runout didn't impact how the handle felt throughout the whole length of travel!
You've endured the unendurable!
If it breaks I better see another video about it. I found your channel a few weeks ago and I cannot get enough. I have been watching every single video.
Can we have an Inheritance Wife and Wife Made Here collab? Maybe drinking rose and roasting the men's videos? They are ruthless. It's why we love 'em.
I’m realizing that pain is much more relatable.
Is this the Déjà-vu of the Déjà-vu? If so, as allways, intersting... Well, promises promises... - but most positive learning-curve out of errors ...
It looked like wood because of the manufacturing process. It’s a continuous casting. Molten is poured in the top of the mold and the billet slowly comes out the bottom.
even through all this madness, frustrating setbacks and acking work ,the work is done ! celebration is in order ,enjoy your success
So much effort and pain. I feel for you. Thanks for sharing this.
Two thumbs up for your patience and perseverance .
It’s absolutely amazing that you can do with the lathe
Ive taken apart machines before... Not all shafts are hardened, a lathe leadscrew can also just be made of some chrome-moly steel without tempering. In a hobby shop it will still last a lifetime.
Did you support the material when it was all chucked up in the lathe? Like with bushings or a spider? Tht would help a lot to not machine a bow in it or get non concentric features when chucked at different lengths. But if you got a working part, all is well ...
Embracing imferpection is one of the easiest lessons to throw around in theory, and by far the hardest to actually do.
I've been attempting to actually do it for years myself. It takes an almost jedi-like level of inner don't-give-a-f to actually let yourself do an intentionally half assed job.
Can we get the wife's commentary as she was editing your ridge wallet section? haha
“Making mistakes custom features“ is the most honest take I’ve heard in months lol
I enjoy the stories of your trials and tribulations because it mirrors my own experiences. Keep up the great content.
Lol, i remake all my leadscrews dude. But i got my steady and follow rests working when i bought it. "Didnt have any guts just the frames" Now hardening them? Now thats next level:)
Dont take that the wrong way, its a compliment. I love to turn acme threads and you're a real machinist for doing so:)
Very inspiring sir! Love your process and included struggles! Thank you looking forward to your next project!