Kawasaki makes great products. Went to the Arctic with the Mrs. on a KLR 650. We then rode it into the states. Three years later we shipped it to Europe and rode all over the continent and the UK before shipping it home. When we arrived in Calgary my daughter met us at the airport with our sons van. The van didn't make past Air Canada cargo and had to be towed. I unbolted the KLR from the shipping crate reattached the battery and rode home. We still have it. Its ten years old this year.
Thank you for the video, I am getting ready to put my Artic-Cat v-twin back together, it has been two years tore down sitting in my shed. Lack of money😜. I thought I had all the parts ready but one last check reveled that they sent me the wrong size piston. Still waiting. Your video was a great refresher since it has been so long ago that I took it apart. Once again thanks. Hope you had a great ride on your trip. Keep up the good work. Glenn from Perham Maine. 🇺🇸
Great video. You guys always seem to be having so much fun. Quick note regarding ring end-gap. I was always taught to measure the gap at the bottom of piston travel, where the least wear takes place because of lower combustion temps etc., which is probably where end gap would be least. ...I know, ...just saying. Thanks again :)
Phillip Cortez I should have stressed more that you have to be extremely careful when honing that you don't take much off at all but is acceptable to hone the cylinders. There are a few forums debating the issue (tried to add the link but didn't work, but google "honing Kawasaki nickel cylinders" and the consensus is a crass hatch is needed. I also called the Kawi dealer I got the parts from and they also said to hone it. Yamaha's are different due to piston rock which wears the nikasil. The rock is due to a small skirt on a large piston so there is no room to hone it. Thanks for the input!
+Phillip Cortez without breaking it in, I had 60 and 70 psi of compression. To seat the rings, peg it as soon as it starts and put it under load as soon as you can. I didn't check it again after but I gave it a good beating up North so if it comes back, I will check it again and see if compression went up at all. Thanks for the input!
you're sharp an thanks for the videos. I took my 750 brute to the shop they rebuilt the carb and it still won't start I paid them $350 thinking about doing what you did on the vid. how much did you spend on parts and machining if any?
Yeah the are like the only people in town they call their prices just never had time or confidence to take on a mechanical project this size I'm not a mechanic so really don't know much about motors but after watching I think I will give it a shot and I will buy a compression tester.
+Phillip Cortez I really appreciate that. I will see what I can do its an 07 I don't want to scrap it. it started to bog down then died when I tried to get it started again never did fire up even after the new carb job. going to see if it's worth digging into. with the prices I'm getting from the local shop it's never going to happen
Keep an eye on the front diffs on the brutes. I have a buddy with a 650 who put 3 in and another friend with a 750 had a toonie sized hole in the top. Took the plug out and 3 drop of water came out. All bearings destroyed. Rusty gears. Blasted brakeklean through the diffs sunroof and mud, water, grass came out the drain. We cut a circle out of my old jetta's hood and jb welded it over the hole. Filled the entire diff with grease from a grease gun and took it for a 45k rip the next day. Just waiting for it to grenade and hes gonna rebuild it.
hows the quad doing since the rebuild? im doing my first rebuild of top end. got the heads done at shop and new pistons and vlaves and seals. when i got it was bad off. my buddy rebuilt top end first time. but it started to over heat and blow white clouds constantly. im hoping that it was just air bubble last time that caused it to over heat..... also already replaced waterpump before last rebuild. maybe cylinder gasket leaked antifreeze with oil.... basically got almost 5 grand in this and havent been able to ride it yet... but if it works after i put together then its worth it.... just making sure i do everything as close to specs as possible.
You should not be able to bend a compression ring. When twisted, it should snap.When the ring bends, it has been overheated. When overheated, it loses it's tension and that reduces compression.
I just installed a head on my engine the other day and I think you switched the torque numbers on the rocker case. The four center bolts with washers are 78 inch pounds, and 5, 6, and the perimeter bolts are 87 inch pounds.
It's took me awhile to rebuild mine, but I've forgot where the black ground wire hooks to the motor, do you remember where you hooked your ground wire to your motor, sorry for the inconvenience but it would be a great help as I can't find anything that list where to ground the geound wire on the motor, and I want to put it back where it come from the factory, thank you for your time and thanks for the vid, very helpful in my rebuild, God bless
Hey love the vid very helpful. Question, how can I go about refilling my coolant without removing the front rack and all. My guess is a long hose to reach under to the rad?? Please help.
how often you guys come to parry sound ? I live here and do lots of riding usually 5-10 bikes we should meet up I can show you guys some fun trails lol
Hello DG,.,.I'm about to work my front head just as you did- only question I have is - What kind of honing tool should I use to hone my front cyl ? or at least which one u used? I'm all set at this point, just need a lil bit of guidance as for the honing tool- thanks for your video- really detailed and practical.
I always use a ball Hone, ive built a lot of engines from gocart race engines to 800hp big block chevys and ive used both types and I prefer a ball hone and I use deisel fuel with a oil in it as my lube for the hone
I take it Kawasaki's are typically loud engines? I did a top end rebuild on my Kawasaki and runs great now. But the engine is much louder than before. All sorts of metallic sounds, but runs good and no smoke. everything is also done to spec, in accordance with the service Manual. My 2013 Honda purrs like a kitten though. I enjoy your vids man!
Chris Meyer lol it’s totally fine to turn it counterclockwise, when you put a ski doo in reverse it turns off and starts back up spinning the motor in the opposite direction
was there special fluid you needed for the transmission side of the rebuild. currently rebuilding my 700 prairie. looks like its about the same process
I bought a brute force that had got water in the motor the first time the guy took it out. it only has 50 hours on it. He never got it running again after drowning it out. He just changed the oil and parked it up. It sat up for a while and now while when I got it and the motor was locked up. I am going to pull the motor out and do a rebuild following your video here. What should i wash the bottom end of the motor out with to ensure that it is clean.
You will most likely have to go more in depth than I went by splitting the bottom case. I have had good luck using a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf in cylinders to unlock engines. I would still disassemble everything and use a degreaser like varsol and brake clean to clean everything
It was locked up when i got it but i have since unlocked it. But when you would crank it excessive amounts of oil would come out the crank case vent tube. So i took the motor out the of the bike and have it on a table in the shop. What could I wash the inside of the block out with to make sure it is clean. I dont want to split the case unless I have too. The motor only has 5o hours on it I paid 450 bucks for it with nice wheels and tires and winch did I get a good deal
You got a great deal but Its worth to split the bottom end. Take a good look at the bearings and crank. All the work you do could be for nothing if there is crap that gets into the wrong places. Its never fun having it blow in the middle of a trail and having to need a tow.
I have a 04 Kawasaki prairie 700,,,which is basically same motor...I have basically rebuilt the entire bike...everything except the motor, which still runs fine...but it is next...I did learn something from ya though, and I wondered why my rocker boxes were weeping so bad...they don't make gaskets for them?? Crazy!! Love how you covered all the important steps and ring end gap, which most people don't cover...nice job....looking forward to watching some more of your vids...
Just did the timing in mine did everything to spec exhaust is sucking in air and intake is exhaust thru the carb, re timed it and same thing any ideas?
For a 650 90o V twin, it sounds shit. I've had 2 Suzuki 650S and they sounded the bollocks! Especially with an aftermarket exhaust (which was stubby n straight through 😊). You need to build an exhaust n have it straight through. The pipes need to be bigger and you could even make a dual exhaust. Straight out of the block 👍🏻 There are 2 sounds I love. A 90o V8. And MOSTLY, a 90o V twin 😍
Nice vid., Rich - thanks.. A few questions/comments.. How come you did not mic the cylinder to see if it needed boring? I was always taught to wash the cylinder with soap and water and a brush multiple times to remove all of the microscopic hone grit. I did not see you make much of an effort there other than wiping it down. WHY DON'T YOU WEAR NITRILE GLOVES? It pains me to see you constantly spraying brake-kleen and all those other chemicals on your hands!
How did you clean your gasket surfaces? Like for the head. My gaskets are old and baked onto my surfaces. Really tough to get it smooth. Btw what's that spray called you were using for your gaskets?
I have a problem with my 750, it is creating a bunch of crankcase pressure thats not getting relieved. ( blowing out oil seal on the clutch side of motor) could you help me with figuring out where the breather tube for the crankcase is at? I'm used to sport quads that have them in the wide open but Im having trouble looking around the plastics and everything to see one
Unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer, its a good general rule of thumb. I just did a Rotax sea doo engine and the gaps are set by a detent in the piston grove. With the pin facing 12 and 6 oclock, the gaps were at 2 and 4 oclock
+DEBOSS GARAGE cool! I have 9,750 miles on mine and I think the valves are shot too. Where are you located? If you're close enough, I'd drop it off to you if you wanted the work? Or, I will have to watch these two videos a couple dozen times and attempt it myself!😮
+DEBOSS GARAGE darn it! I was hoping you were closer. You do a great job and take care in what you do. It's hard to find anyone around here that I would trust to do it. There isn't even that many guys in Utah that know anything about Kawies.
NP. Our yearly camping trip is coming up again. I am picking up the Brute next week and rebuilding the carbs. It seemed to bog down on the bottom end so I want that taken care of before I go. Look for the videos coming in a few weeks. Good luck with your build!
Never use blue RTV on the head it's for water pumps it's not oil or fuel resistant and it will eat it and get down into your engine! Use the ultra black it's Oil and Fuel resistant!
Would you mind throwing out some numbers if you don't mind me asking ? Sorry but you could really short cut me on a possible Frankenstein here asking $2500. Tie Rods, Seat, Battery, Reg, Exhaust and I'm already at a 1000 bucks over asking before the engine running issues and trashed plastics, its been beached so I'm concerend for the worst with sand in the valves and venturi, without a tear down. Thanks Canada
Wayne Swicegood bullshit. Kawi is the best commercial zero turn motor. I would know I work on them daily. I’ve replaced many more Briggs and probably a few more kohlers than I have Kawis. Valve issues are pretty rare on a kawi other than the common .005” adjustment. In fact Kohler and Briggs certainly has the most issues with valves. I have seen many loose valve seats, worn rocker arms and pivots and bent pushrods as well as a bad cam on Briggs. Kohler commands constantly have terrible lifter tick that is sometimes fixed and sometimes not with a new set of hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters was a good idea but poorly executed as I’ve even seen command EFI engines that are only a few years old have lifter tick so bad it sounded like a rod knock or some other kind of rap. New lifters thankfully fixed that one. And the dumbest valve issue I’ve ever seen is on a EFI Kohler (aegis series If I remember correctly), a very “high end” (expensive) engine. One of the valves became so loose that the rocker arm fell off. The cylinder stopped firing and the EFI kept spraying fuel into the cylinder, washing away all the oil and severely scoring the cylinder wall. Totaling out a 2015 zero turn, customer was disgusted and took business elsewhere. I can say with confidence any of the commercial duty Kawasaki engines are the best on the zero turn market.
I've got a fd620d replacing the cam was plastic, while a part I'll go ahead & do rebuild the upper end , on my encore proline , Kawasaki v twin water cooled , you'll never find a better engine ,no argument , fact , hell u made a blade out of a plastic 55 gallon drum trash can ,& push snow ,v cut tractor tires & chains for winter , motor takes care of me !
Kawasaki makes great products. Went to the Arctic with the Mrs. on a KLR 650. We then rode it into the states. Three years later we shipped it to Europe and rode all over the continent and the UK before shipping it home. When we arrived in Calgary my daughter met us at the airport with our sons van. The van didn't make past Air Canada cargo and had to be towed. I unbolted the KLR from the shipping crate reattached the battery and rode home. We still have it. Its ten years old this year.
I'm a fan of the break in.
This is the first set of videos I watched from Rich.
Thank you for the video, I am getting ready to put my Artic-Cat v-twin back together, it has been two years tore down sitting in my shed. Lack of money😜. I thought I had all the parts ready but one last check reveled that they sent me the wrong size piston. Still waiting. Your video was a great refresher since it has been so long ago that I took it apart. Once again thanks. Hope you had a great ride on your trip. Keep up the good work.
Glenn from Perham Maine. 🇺🇸
Awesome demonstration! I like the fact that you include proper torque values. That's always important! This video inspired me to wanna rebuild mine!
It should be checked if the torque values are for clean and dry threads or lightly oiled. Will make a difference.
if you go by the torque settings in manual. should you have dry or lightly oiled?
at 14:40. wouldn't the weights open up at higher rpm due to centrifugal force, like a chainsaw clutch ?
Directions "To Seat Rings, run engine with light load for 1-2 hours"
Rich "Wide Open Throttle Wheelies for 1-2 Hours"
She good to go.
Great video. You guys always seem to be having so much fun. Quick note regarding ring end-gap. I was always taught to measure the gap at the bottom of piston travel, where the least wear takes place because of lower combustion temps etc., which is probably where end gap would be least. ...I know, ...just saying. Thanks again :)
Make sure not to hone nikasil plated cylinders! Common on high performance motorcross engines 4 stroke and 2 stroke
I second that
Phillip Cortez I should have stressed more that you have to be extremely careful when honing that you don't take much off at all but is acceptable to hone the cylinders. There are a few forums debating the issue (tried to add the link but didn't work, but google "honing Kawasaki nickel cylinders" and the consensus is a crass hatch is needed. I also called the Kawi dealer I got the parts from and they also said to hone it. Yamaha's are different due to piston rock which wears the nikasil. The rock is due to a small skirt on a large piston so there is no room to hone it. Thanks for the input!
+Phillip Cortez
without breaking it in, I had 60 and 70 psi of compression. To seat the rings, peg it as soon as it starts and put it under load as soon as you can. I didn't check it again after but I gave it a good beating up North so if it comes back, I will check it again and see if compression went up at all. Thanks for the input!
you're sharp an thanks for the videos. I took my 750 brute to the shop they rebuilt the carb and it still won't start I paid them $350 thinking about doing what you did on the vid. how much did you spend on parts and machining if any?
Yeah the are like the only people in town they call their prices just never had time or confidence to take on a mechanical project this size I'm not a mechanic so really don't know much about motors but after watching I think I will give it a shot and I will buy a compression tester.
+Phillip Cortez I really appreciate that. I will see what I can do its an 07 I don't want to scrap it. it started to bog down then died when I tried to get it started again never did fire up even after the new carb job. going to see if it's worth digging into. with the prices I'm getting from the local shop it's never going to happen
+Phillip Cortez thanks man I think I have enough info to start Ima get on it!
Keep an eye on the front diffs on the brutes. I have a buddy with a 650 who put 3 in and another friend with a 750 had a toonie sized hole in the top. Took the plug out and 3 drop of water came out. All bearings destroyed. Rusty gears. Blasted brakeklean through the diffs sunroof and mud, water, grass came out the drain. We cut a circle out of my old jetta's hood and jb welded it over the hole. Filled the entire diff with grease from a grease gun and took it for a 45k rip the next day. Just waiting for it to grenade and hes gonna rebuild it.
The name of the show needs to be changed to Deboss Open Heart Surgery. Mesmerizing.
Crosshatch gives a grippy surface that the oil rings can deposit oil on, and a glassed bore will not hold a film!
This is not correct for a Nickel ceramic coating(Nikasil) designed to supply a hard, wear-resistant coating on an aluminium surface.
Fresh hone, new rings first start up doing top speed and wheelie hahaha
hows the quad doing since the rebuild? im doing my first rebuild of top end. got the heads done at shop and new pistons and vlaves and seals. when i got it was bad off. my buddy rebuilt top end first time. but it started to over heat and blow white clouds constantly. im hoping that it was just air bubble last time that caused it to over heat..... also already replaced waterpump before last rebuild. maybe cylinder gasket leaked antifreeze with oil.... basically got almost 5 grand in this and havent been able to ride it yet... but if it works after i put together then its worth it.... just making sure i do everything as close to specs as possible.
great video! . I have a 2002 prairie 650and there gears seems to not work.. it moves freely.. any clue as to what is causing this?
You should not be able to bend a compression ring. When twisted, it should snap.When the ring bends, it has been overheated. When overheated, it loses it's tension and that reduces compression.
I thought that was weird too. Probably why this engine died to begin with. Workhorse atvs like this are often neglected.
Oh man I have to do this to my quad
Sure wish I was a mechanic lol I’m a plumber….
This vids gonna help alot
I just installed a head on my engine the other day and I think you switched the torque numbers on the rocker case. The four center bolts with washers are 78 inch pounds, and 5, 6, and the perimeter bolts are 87 inch pounds.
she wont last with those torque values backwords!! 9 inch pounds shes gonna blow!!
It's took me awhile to rebuild mine, but I've forgot where the black ground wire hooks to the motor, do you remember where you hooked your ground wire to your motor, sorry for the inconvenience but it would be a great help as I can't find anything that list where to ground the geound wire on the motor, and I want to put it back where it come from the factory, thank you for your time and thanks for the vid, very helpful in my rebuild, God bless
I love the way Canadians say out
it varies depending where you are
Great video man love quads
Great Video man ! Very helpful !
Hey love the vid very helpful. Question, how can I go about refilling my coolant without removing the front rack and all. My guess is a long hose to reach under to the rad?? Please help.
I just drilled a hole and now have access
Fan for life. Great video
how often you guys come to parry sound ? I live here and do lots of riding usually 5-10 bikes we should meet up I can show you guys some fun trails lol
Love the zip-tie stitch on the plastics, is that a factory option, lol.
I did my 650i in frame, it was painful! I wish i had it on the bench. Good vid!
I'm doing it in frame now. You are correct that it is a bitch. Especially timing the front cylinder.
Dude, you are a machine.
Is the valve clearance same with 840cc kit? Thx u for vid
you need some LED light bars on that thing
Made it look easy
Good video. However I like Big singles. Easy to work on, cost less $$$.
Nice video but that timing chain has seen better days
Hello . What brand do you recommend for piston rings and head gaskets? Thanks
My favorite for gaskets is copper spray..... Ive reused many gaskets with a good ol spray of copper
Which honing stones did you use? Diamond?
Do both pistons face the front of the engine? Like the arrow or the f?
Hello DG,.,.I'm about to work my front head just as you did- only question I have is - What kind of honing tool should I use to hone my front cyl ? or at least which one u used? I'm all set at this point, just need a lil bit of guidance as for the honing tool- thanks for your video- really detailed and practical.
I always use a ball Hone, ive built a lot of engines from gocart race engines to 800hp big block chevys and ive used both types and I prefer a ball hone and I use deisel fuel with a oil in it as my lube for the hone
I take it Kawasaki's are typically loud engines? I did a top end rebuild on my Kawasaki and runs great now. But the engine is much louder than before. All sorts of metallic sounds, but runs good and no smoke. everything is also done to spec, in accordance with the service Manual. My 2013 Honda purrs like a kitten though. I enjoy your vids man!
if its engine noise and not exhaust noise you could try using a thicker oil to quiet it down
Did you have the oil drain plug chased or re-tapped?
+rover215 Yes, I ran a tap in there and it is holding well
please tell me you didn't just wide open throttle that thing with fresh rings? you need to heat cycle the rings to allow them to seat properly.
whats the brand of red tack gasket spray? looks like permatec
great video, you are the MAN!!!!!!! but dont forget to mention never turn crank counterclockwise
Chris Meyer lol it’s totally fine to turn it counterclockwise, when you put a ski doo in reverse it turns off and starts back up spinning the motor in the opposite direction
Hey I have 2006 brute 750 the oem rings they sent me are 1/2 to big…did you have this issue on this build
So on the front cylinder did you point the arrow up? When I took mine apart it was arrowed down. Not sure what way to put it back.
Excuse me, I have a question. My ATV BRUTE FORCE 750 has fuel leaking out of the exhaust and apparently it is leaking into the oil.
Bad ass man
How did you know so much having never rebuilt one before?
What shop did you take your to get honed? I live south of perry sound
How u bleed coolant before running engine?
What brand of rebuild kit did you use and were us satisfied with it
I used OEM from Kawasaki. Don't mess around with Ebay aftermarket
very nice vid by the way
какой пробег был на квадроцикле, уж больно сильно изношены клапана
How many hours where on this engine?
Is that the engine timing 12:54 - 13:19 ?
was there special fluid you needed for the transmission side of the rebuild. currently rebuilding my 700 prairie. looks like its about the same process
Transmission and engine are all in one case on these motors...so, in other words, the engine and transmission are bathed in the same fluid...
👊
I bought a brute force that had got water in the motor the first time the guy took it out. it only has 50 hours on it. He never got it running again after drowning it out. He just changed the oil and parked it up. It sat up for a while and now while when I got it and the motor was locked up. I am going to pull the motor out and do a rebuild following your video here. What should i wash the bottom end of the motor out with to ensure that it is clean.
You will most likely have to go more in depth than I went by splitting the bottom case. I have had good luck using a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf in cylinders to unlock engines. I would still disassemble everything and use a degreaser like varsol and brake clean to clean everything
It was locked up when i got it but i have since unlocked it. But when you would crank it excessive amounts of oil would come out the crank case vent tube. So i took the motor out the of the bike and have it on a table in the shop. What could I wash the inside of the block out with to make sure it is clean. I dont want to split the case unless I have too. The motor only has 5o hours on it I paid 450 bucks for it with nice wheels and tires and winch did I get a good deal
You got a great deal but Its worth to split the bottom end. Take a good look at the bearings and crank. All the work you do could be for nothing if there is crap that gets into the wrong places. Its never fun having it blow in the middle of a trail and having to need a tow.
is it much more complicated to split the case
So do you buy a new timing chain or use the old one.
Nice video brother....how is that motor running to date??
Great! Took it up North again but blew the exhaust. Replaced that and it ran even better
I have a 04 Kawasaki prairie 700,,,which is basically same motor...I have basically rebuilt the entire bike...everything except the motor, which still runs fine...but it is next...I did learn something from ya though, and I wondered why my rocker boxes were weeping so bad...they don't make gaskets for them?? Crazy!! Love how you covered all the important steps and ring end gap, which most people don't cover...nice job....looking forward to watching some more of your vids...
those ring gaps you states ,,were those stock Kawasaki pistons or aftermarket,,like weisco
OEM kawasaki
Just did the timing in mine did everything to spec exhaust is sucking in air and intake is exhaust thru the carb, re timed it and same thing any ideas?
1:20 Yeah I dont have those tools either Rich :/
For a 650 90o V twin, it sounds shit. I've had 2 Suzuki 650S and they sounded the bollocks! Especially with an aftermarket exhaust (which was stubby n straight through 😊).
You need to build an exhaust n have it straight through. The pipes need to be bigger and you could even make a dual exhaust. Straight out of the block 👍🏻
There are 2 sounds I love. A 90o V8. And MOSTLY, a 90o V twin 😍
Nice vid., Rich - thanks.. A few questions/comments..
How come you did not mic the cylinder to see if it needed boring?
I was always taught to wash the cylinder with soap and water and a brush multiple times to remove all of the microscopic hone grit. I did not see you make much of an effort there other than wiping it down.
WHY DON'T YOU WEAR NITRILE GLOVES? It pains me to see you constantly spraying brake-kleen and all those other chemicals on your hands!
How did you clean your gasket surfaces? Like for the head. My gaskets are old and baked onto my surfaces. Really tough to get it smooth. Btw what's that spray called you were using for your gaskets?
i use a razor blade and brake cleaner. seems to work well for me
Might need a new belt, by the way it would not pull a wheelie. That or the driver wasn’t giving it enough gas of course.
can you adjust the valves before installation
You can but it's easier with head on n timing belt on so you can turn crank instead of trying to keep da cam from moving during adjustment
I have a problem with my 750, it is creating a bunch of crankcase pressure thats not getting relieved. ( blowing out oil seal on the clutch side of motor) could you help me with figuring out where the breather tube for the crankcase is at? I'm used to sport quads that have them in the wide open but Im having trouble looking around the plastics and everything to see one
sounds like you have bad rings giving too much blowby to the crankcase
Are putting the ring gaps on the piston the same for every 4 stroke four wheeler?
Unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer, its a good general rule of thumb. I just did a Rotax sea doo engine and the gaps are set by a detent in the piston grove. With the pin facing 12 and 6 oclock, the gaps were at 2 and 4 oclock
Oh okay. 10-4. I'm looking to rebuild a Kawasaki Mojave and just going over everything
Those timing chains look fucked
what would a fair price be for rebuilding the top end on a klf 220?
11$ plus tax unless the customer is native than its just 11$
@@AndrewBrowner 😂🤣 i can't stop laughing thank you. 😆😆
how many miles were on that Brute when the intake valves toasted?
I think about 5000 km, but it had a HAAAAAARD life. The owner and I both beat the living tar out of it.
+DEBOSS GARAGE cool! I have 9,750 miles on mine and I think the valves are shot too.
Where are you located? If you're close enough, I'd drop it off to you if you wanted the work? Or, I will have to watch these two videos a couple dozen times and attempt it myself!😮
I'm in Dunnville Ontario Canada. If you are from Utah, I don't think its going to work out....
+DEBOSS GARAGE darn it! I was hoping you were closer. You do a great job and take care in what you do. It's hard to find anyone around here that I would trust to do it. There isn't even that many guys in Utah that know anything about Kawies.
NP. Our yearly camping trip is coming up again. I am picking up the Brute next week and rebuilding the carbs. It seemed to bog down on the bottom end so I want that taken care of before I go. Look for the videos coming in a few weeks. Good luck with your build!
What is your # so I can call you ab a 750 bruit force
Can you give me a ball park figure on the head job per head?
I think the total bill was 150 per head (Canadian)
i have a kawasaki 2005 kvf650d and it dosent whats to turn on what can i do?
seriously thats your question?
with the info given id suggest put it on kijiji as slightly used asking 100$ or two cases of beer
What caused the dead cylinder.
my guess is the warn valve , reducing the valve lash to a negative clearance thereby holding the exhaust valve open
hone with grease ? i use diesel fuel . huh ,,,may try it .
Цепи грм как армотура стоят износ 200% а он кольца меняет.
Your wore a helmet while driving the tractor but no helmet on the quad
Never use blue RTV on the head it's for water pumps it's not oil or fuel resistant and it will eat it and get down into your engine! Use the ultra black it's Oil and Fuel resistant!
Sooo, basically this motor has a variably timed camshaft... vtec yo
Ball hone works much better. I live in Vermont and the trail system is not very good. You ever let outsiders ride with you?
Would you mind throwing out some numbers if you don't mind me asking ?
Sorry but you could really short cut me on a possible Frankenstein here asking $2500.
Tie Rods, Seat, Battery, Reg, Exhaust and I'm already at a 1000 bucks over asking before the engine running issues and trashed plastics, its been beached so I'm concerend for the worst with sand in the valves and venturi, without a tear down.
Thanks Canada
Kawasucki small engines are notorious for valve issues. Highly overrated small engines especially in the commercial zero turn market.
Wayne Swicegood bullshit. Kawi is the best commercial zero turn motor. I would know I work on them daily. I’ve replaced many more Briggs and probably a few more kohlers than I have Kawis. Valve issues are pretty rare on a kawi other than the common .005” adjustment. In fact Kohler and Briggs certainly has the most issues with valves. I have seen many loose valve seats, worn rocker arms and pivots and bent pushrods as well as a bad cam on Briggs. Kohler commands constantly have terrible lifter tick that is sometimes fixed and sometimes not with a new set of hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters was a good idea but poorly executed as I’ve even seen command EFI engines that are only a few years old have lifter tick so bad it sounded like a rod knock or some other kind of rap. New lifters thankfully fixed that one. And the dumbest valve issue I’ve ever seen is on a EFI Kohler (aegis series If I remember correctly), a very “high end” (expensive) engine. One of the valves became so loose that the rocker arm fell off. The cylinder stopped firing and the EFI kept spraying fuel into the cylinder, washing away all the oil and severely scoring the cylinder wall. Totaling out a 2015 zero turn, customer was disgusted and took business elsewhere. I can say with confidence any of the commercial duty Kawasaki engines are the best on the zero turn market.
I've got a fd620d replacing the cam was plastic, while a part I'll go ahead & do rebuild the upper end , on my encore proline , Kawasaki v twin water cooled , you'll never find a better engine ,no argument , fact , hell u made a blade out of a plastic 55 gallon drum trash can ,& push snow ,v cut tractor tires & chains for winter , motor takes care of me !