Charlie, thanks for all the time you have given to this channel. I get tickled at some of your wording . Yes I am a yank , and get most of them. My layout is forever changing and my daughter and I love this hobby. We cannot have anything permanent, moving in two years. In closing thanks for serving , even over here one vet appreciates another.
You have some really great videos that everyone should watch no matter how many years one has been model railroading' It never hurts to see how the other guy does something as it may be better or faster than the way you have done it for years. Thanks for your videos even after 60 years of model Railroading I like to learn new ways of working on my hobby.
I’m Ron. Silly spellcheck signed me off as “Erer”. Ha. I need to be more careful before I send. I start to ballast today. I’ll use the “Charlie Method”!
I have only been building model railways for about 1 year and only just got around to ballasting my layout in December. I took the advice to build a practice board, this gave me the confidence to start on the main layout. I have looked at many videos on how to ballast but this was the best by far. I used all the advice and I am very happy with the results it has given me. Thank you for this great video. I will always the Chadwick videos first.
Feeling inspired. Been down to Monk Bar Model Shop today in York and bought loads of basic stuff, ballast, paint greenery etc with a view to having a go at my first landscape scene with my old Hornby track from 50 years ago. Thank you for such simple effective techniques and videos.
What a great video, for those new to the hobby, or even for some that have been doing it for years, the information put across in this video could save someone a lot of time and frustration. Great that people like Charlie are willing to spread some tricks of the trade, so to speak.
Another nicely done and informative video Charlie. Your contributions to the hobby are very much appreciated. I'm a big fan of your channel because you post your less than perfect efforts, right along with the successful things. This has taught me to lose my fear of making mistakes. Cheers!
Brilliant. I thought once he uses the vacuum cleaner he would muck it all up. Wife's tight to the rescue. I will heed your advise and check all my track and points before I lay the ballast. Thank you. A day is not wasted if you can have a cup of tea, and learn something. 👍
Great! Even though you made this a year ago it’s a very informative video, just about to ballast so this will be very useful. I have decided to lay large sheet dense styrene foam 30mm thick over my entire base boards to reduce noise, I have one long incline from one level to another that I didn’t foam and it is twice as loud, so the sheet foam works reasonably well. Thanks Leigh.
Thanks Daniel, now can you help me? I need the name of a couple of popular Facebook railroad modelling sites in the US to spread my wings. Do you know any?
I used this same method 45 years ago when ballasting my HO gauge track and later when compacting roadbed on a 16 inch gauge line I poured many gallons of slightly soapy water down the middle of the rails. The water soaked in immediately and we didn't have to tamp any of the fill to get it packed. Works great.
I used plasticard to reduce the size of my applicator's center slot, thus limiting flow. Doing this might nigate the need to vacuum. It makes ballasting way quicker. Masking tape also works. Excellent channel. Keep up the good work.
Hi Charlie, The old school method for sound deadening was placing Homosote (a papier-mâché type produce made from recycled paper that is compressed under high temperature, high pressure and held together with an adhesive) on top of the plywood sub base. The cork roadbed was then placed on top of the Homosote. Your method of ballasting is very similar to mine, except I do use 50% IPA as a wetting agent. I believe the surface tension of IPA is less than water, allowing the glue to thoroughly penetrate the ballast. I use a 3:1 mixture of water and PVA (Good Old Elmer's White Glue), I've found this formula still holds the ballast very well and reduces the amount of glue needed for the job. I am fortunate, in my area we have a model railway company that produces actual scale sized ballast made from the same ballast as used on the prototype railways. For years I used Woodland Scenics ballast (I still use all of their other products) but was not 100% satisfied with the appearance. Since switching to real ballast, I doubt I'd ever switch back to Woodland Scenics clay ballast. Note, this is just my personal opinion and should not be viewed as a negative response toward Woodland Scenics great selection of of model railroad products. Cheers, Rich S.
Hi Charlie, I was going to do a video about the noise issue as I've been doing some experiments for some time now using an app on my phone that measures in decibels. I have some interesting ISO-rubber sheets to try out soon (we use them to sound proof new build houses close to Heathrow Airport). As with any isolating membrane the soundproofing must cover the entire area affected by noise. You're absolutely correct about the ballast propagating the vibrations through to the baseboards and also the track pins will do this albeit on a smaller scale. The only way to completely isolate the track and ballast is to lay the cork wider so the ballast is isolated too. A big difference in noise reduction can be achieved, when ballasting between two tracks, by allowing the cork to run across the full width of both without a break through the middle. You can chamfer the edges to allow the ballast to cover the cork without having too much touching the base. A more expensive, but much more effective, way is to apply an underlayer of cork to a larger area where track is to be laid and then continue as normal. The thickness of the cork will also play a part; the thicker, the better. It's a difficult one to deal with if the track has already been laid as the rumble comes from the entire woodwork, legs and all. If you have any plastercloth scenery like hills and tunnels they'll also become amplifiers. The only way is to damp the vibrations at source. I hope this is helpful, Charlie, and thanks for another great video. All the best...Tom
Thanks Charlie I watch a lot of your videos not only for the great info you impart but I like the way you present the subject with light humour. I have been dabbling with Model Railroads for the past 60years and still call myself a beginner. As I am in Australia without You Tube it would be considerably harder to get decent information. So keep it up keep the videos coming
Great idea Charlie and something I will replicate myself. Rather than just making a program track, do it with style! There are alot of ballast types, colors, sizes and so on as well which i need to research on so I enjoyed watching your feedback and commenting on the prototype of ballasting. Using the vacuum cleaner is a genius idea! All the best, Clint
Charlie, My benchwork consists of 1/2 inch plywood, then 1 inch of extruded foam board, followed by Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, and then the track. My locos run very smooth and quiet. The track is pinned and the pins are 1 inch and do not make it down to the plywood layer. I have no issues with humming etc. I mentioned prior that the roadbed is foam tacked to the foam layer, and the pins are held tightly by going into this foam layer smear. Regards, Bob
I have used 4" wide strips of old tire inner tubes as a base for the cork, track and ballast. If you are using foam board, use the inner tube strips on the top surface and put a coat of automotive undercoat on the bottom side of the foam board.
I'm not a railway modeller but I do like good examples of the art. I'm new to this channel and I was immediatey impressed by your attention to detail. Especially how that approach applies to everything; not just the railway itself, but the camerawork and production. To me your railway is art but the audio-visual is science. Every aspect of your work is admirable from lighting and sound, to sharpness and editing. Overall I like your consistency. Your presentation is down to earth and yet epitomises good preparation, skill and experience. Thank you - I could watch for hours!
Just latched onto your video's and I'm very impressed. I like the presentation, clean and easy to understand. One thing I would like covered is signaling. The basic amateur, like me, comes up with a track plan and can't wait to have trains running, but what about signals i.e. what goes where and is correct for my track layout. If you could look at that aspect I'm sure you would get a big response.Best Rgds, Ozzie Dave - Ex Pom
Hi Charlie, another great video as always! I would love it if you could do a video on signals. This is an area that I find very daunting, as my new layout is set in the mid sixties, and am unsure which type of signals to use? I also really struggle to understand where signals should be placed on the layout and which ones go where! I know this is a massive subject, but it seems there are limited videos on railway signals on RUclips most likely as it is all rather complicated, if you could offer a beginners guide this would be most helpful Not only to me but all your subscribers, as I’m sure I’m not the only one! Many thanks, keep up the great work! Peter
I second this request, an idiots guide to early/mid 20th century signalling would be (as the Pickwick, Owl and Waverley pens) a boon and a blessing to men.
Great stuff Charlie. I was one of many that asked how you do the ballasting and it's great to see. You mentioned that this piece of track would be used for programming - would you be able to do a video explaining how you would go about wiring a short piece of single track like this under DCC conditions.
Some good ideas there. I always recommend trying something new on a short piece of track, so if it goes wrong, you have not ruined anything. You did this but did not mention it.
Charlie, Very nicely done. I tried the vacuum trick and it works, another satisfied customer, thank you. I find I pre-paint the track with Tamiya spray matt brown paint, it's touch dry in 15 mins. I then remove the paint from the railhead before glueing down.I use the i.pa. and water method. Also big " Ups" to you on joining the Mckinley Railway Team. Cheers, Chris Perry.
Hi Charlie, I've laid some of mine straight onto 5mm foam solid floor underlay and it seems to absorb a lot of the noise. Once ballasted you wouldn't know any difference.
Greetings from West Virginia. Homasote, a paper based product similar to the wood based MDF, is used by some for sound deadening, but I don't like working with the stuff. I do my track ballasting like yours except for using Woodland Scenics foam ballast and add the granular over it. Have found for me it is the best method, but may give the thin cork a try - looks very nice. Gives a very solid base.
Charlie,I really enjoyed watching this video and like the method you displayed. What company make the ballast spreader you are using in the video? Never thought I would see someone suck up ballast before gluing and get away with not bring everything up, nice job. Thanks so much for sharing you method and ideas. Cheers!! Muse
Excellent as ever, concise, informative and watchable. FYI, for sound proofing instead of cork underlay, I’ve been using two layers of 3mm closed cell dense foam, one layer covers entire baseboard second layer under the track. That way the ballast PVA mix never comes into contact with the wooden baseboard top. Important not to accidentally cut through the lower layer of foam when cutting the upper layer as this could create a sound bridge allowing pva into the slice in the lower foam.
@@ChadwickModelRailway @@ChadwickModelRailway www.efoam.co.uk/closed-cell-polyethylene-foam.php#sheet1 I used their black 3mm stuff with adhesive backing. Pics here before ballasting: www.derg.ie/albums/gort/DSC_1607.jpg www.derg.ie/albums/gort/GortMontage01.jpg The 6mm total thickness of the double layer is perfect for track pins to just make contact with the play baseboard surface and can be pushed in by hand using edge of wire cutters. Dave McCabe of WMRC gave me the tip a few years ago. I hoping to rebel and reballast my main layout using the same stuff.
I learned a lot from the video. When I was little,we had a small layout and the tracks were only tacked down on top of felt.lol.noisy to. I have only recently gotten back into the hobby and want to “model” the Southwest United States. Question for you.do you think gluing strips of yoga mat under the platform where the tracks are will deaden the sound?
T Hi Charlie. I’m about to start from scratch at age 60. I’m getting a shed to build in and i haven’t built a model railway since I was a kid. So only childish memories but still had my layout untill I was 17, then discovered motorcycles and girls.. BIG MISTAKE. Should have stayed with the railway. Is it to late for me now?? My eyesight has deteriorated and my fingers feel like sausages but I’d love to just immerse myself into this hobby again.. do people of my age start from scratch? And do you read any magazines that would help me ?? Phil
phil3380 hi Phil, I am in the same boat as you. (I should I say train) Similar age and similar experience. Charlie’s fantastic videos are going to be a great help.
Charlie, if you think about it you have created a sound board similar to a violin. Irrespective of the methods used, the structure will amplify the sound. To deaden the sound I have used to good effect the sound deadening material from the automotive field. It was quite cheap and was glued to the underside of the board. Works really well.
Hi Charlie, thank you for sharing your skills and techniques. And I admire your presenting style as well. I never tried ballasting when I last was into RM aged 14 so this was a really helpful guide! All the best, Jon Roach
Hi Charlie, even though there’s lots of videos and regular updates, for me there’s a set of core videos to refer to and this is one of them. Painting and ballasting raises many questions, some videos have the paint being removed from the rail tops as it’s applied, some have painting with the ballast in situ. This (method in your video) for me is the most straightforward way, all paint, all PVA on first, then all removed from the tops in one action. Makes perfect sense. Agree on the availability of sleeper grime. I’ve just taken some cans but in many places it’s out of stock and as you say you have to take the courier option as Royal Mail won’t transport it. I agree with the airbrush reference too, I’m certainly not going to buy one and learn how to use it when I only need it once. Once I’ve painted the track, that’s going to be it. Got my tools and materials, the only thing I forgot to order was a couple of track rubbers. Oooops……
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie, I don’t like to double post replies but for anyone looking who hasn’t used Sleeper Grime your advice on spraying outdoors is very prudent. The stuff absolutely reeks! Even after twelve hours and with an open window the upstairs of my house is still very heavy with it. I didn’t worry about the overspray as I have no scenics down at the moment and my track was secured in place…..but my oh my : 0
It looks bloody good! Thank you so much for all you are doing on your site with so many ideas and tips. I just retired from teaching and am diving into planning my train hobby full stream. Keep it up, mate! Ed L from Iowa, USA.
Add foam to the top of your support board, as dissimilar materials cancel out sound transmission. I’ve done this on my N-Scale layout and it dramatically lowered the sound drumming. Pre-painting your track prior to laying is one of the best options.
Hi Charlie, Another hit I think - as good a demo of ballasting as you could wish for. All tips gratefully received. You started the demo with some information about sound transmission into the baseboard. You never mentioned Sundaela board. I know it is expensive but it is light weight and very good at reducing noise. I have always been very happy with the results. It is also a recycled material and could be recycled at the end of life - a plus these days.
I'm actually doing ballasting again myself at the moment, and have just watched this video again Charlie, so as to recap on your methods, which are pretty good really. `I especially like the teaspoon tapping and vacuuming, the latter of which is pretty brave. I use 1/8" (3mm) high cork from Charles Cantrell which comes in a roll. The only problem with it, is that it's not chamfered at the edges. So I've started to put a silicone sealant along the edges of the cork and wipe it with a 45 degree cut piece of old credit card, then generously sprinkle the ballast on that, and press it into the sealant so that it sticks, I have to do no more than a yard at a time because otherwise the sealant goes off. If any ballast is missing it can be added later when the track centre and sleepers either side are ballasted and stuck with 50/50% PVA and water. Hope this might help others, who use the same cork as I do.
Hi Charlie. I'm a builder that uses sound proofing boards with sound proofing adhesive. Trust me, egg boxes does NOT work, it's an old myth so don't waste your time. I find that foam track bed is the best answer after lots of experiments. Love your vids. Regards, Rick Bulldog of Digon Alley Station. Yes I'm a Harry Potter fan !!!!
I have to say that although I model O scale, 3 rail, I thoroughly enjoy your videos and I do learn quite a bit of technique that is applicable to any scale. So thank you again Charlie!
Hi Charlie; great video no ballasting! Here is what i do for noise counseling. I use foam board. Blue or pink, whichever you prefer. I laid the sub road bed, on my layout it's 3quarter inc pylewood, then the foamboard, topped off with the cork roadbed. I tried this on my fourth HO scale layout, and I was amazed at how much of the noise was cancelled. And it seem that the trains run smoother. I wood recommend this process. It's an expensive way to get the best results, however it really does the job. I reallly love your videos!!!😊
Good morning, Charlie. Thanks for a straight forward approach to ballasting the track. Since I'm a "follower the recipe" person, I like to do it step by step and your approach fits that regiment. This approach that you use gives me the confidence to ballast successfully. Thanks. - Dean from Minnesota
Similar ballast spreaders are available in the USA from Bachman on Amazon for about $20. I 've found that a layer of cork roadbed under the ties helps considerably with noise. The new standard in America is to glue the cork to the plywood and track to the cork with a thin layer of latex acrylic caulking compound. This leaves no nails (pins) to transmit noise into the plywood. We use diluted Elmer's glue for the gluing medium, similar to the glue you use, which dries rock hard and transmits noise itself. Here the glue comes in smaller bottles with a relatively small hole in addition to gallon bottles. I use one of the smaller bottles to apply the glue. It gives control similar to the pipette. Some have advocated using diluted artist's matte medium for ballast glue because it dries more flexible and doesn't transmit noise as well. It is far more expensive than the glue here. I've done short sections this way but can't really tell the difference. The methods I use are exactly the same. I've also used this method to glue down scenery items like rip rap and loose rock in a quarry or along the base of a cliff.
Hi Chad i use to use 3 mm cork and I found that a cardboard with the corrugated between works real good and of coarse and about the same thickness. which has air space to damp down the sound.
Great job charlie the way you ballasted the track is exactly the way i do it too and i find no problems at all and it looks good and it's quicker than other methods i find to you have made another great video with how to steps easy to understand and straight forward thanks again all the best john from rugby .
Hi, Charlie. Another great "how to" in your series. Thanks for posting. You mention the 'traditional' method of applying ballast to the track, and others may be interested in learning another reason it seems to be going out of fashion. One of my former workmates was building a model of somewhere on the Swiss Metre Gauge system, and he'd reached the ballasting stage. He came in one morning, slumped into a chair - not his - and declared he'd had a disaster the previous night. We all thought the cooker, freezer or television had died, but it was far more improtant to him than that! This ballast is dusty stuff, and he'd obviously not been using a mask. He'd not yet got to the point of gluing it down, either, and this dust had made him sneeze. He couldn't wait to finish his shift, so he could go home and start again. So, folks, don't wear a mask only when spraying paint, use one when ballasting, too!!! Cheers!
Like the idea of vacuuming the ballast before gluing it down. Wouldn't have thought of that but it seems to work well - will have to give it a try. Thanks for sharing Charlie! Best, John
Hi Charlie. Another excellent video. A bit of humour always helps. I have yet to build my layout. Spending 6 months a year in Cyprus sort of hampers my garage conversion work. Probably finish it at the same time that Brexit happens! What I have read is that Copydex is the stuff to use as it dries as a 'flexible' layer. Another thought that I had on the noise front is to cover virtually my whole baseboard in cork sheet then put the cork strips down to go under the track on top of this.. The ballast will then be glued onto the top of the main cork sheet and not direct onto the plywood baseboard. This is only a theory :) Keep them coming. Cheers. Pete
Morning Pete, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the latest upload. Your point on a cork base layer is very interesting. I’m pretty sure that I’ll do that on future scenic sections. I’m going to use 3mm cork across the fiddle yard so it will be interesting to note the noise without ballast applied. Regards Charlie.
Kia ora ,Charlie, On the subject of track noise,modellers can use the IKEA carpet felt which is rubberised (recommended by Martin/Marklin of Sweden) I also use the rubber shelf liners in various colours. This holds ballast well,and can be built up in layers. Easy to cut,has mesh patterns and cheap in large rolls from discount stores/$2 shops etc (in New Zealand) Hope this helps.
I've just started building an N gauge layout and ballasting has been a big fear of mine. After watching this video and ordering the right bits for the job I'm feeling a lot better about the task. Thank you for the tips! I'll be sure to check out more of your videos.
A cheap way to lay a lot of ballast in a large area such as a marshalling yard is to buy an A1 sheet of foam card and remove the top layer to expose the foam. The texture of the foam has a ballast look to it and if you give it a coat of paint similar to the ballast you can save a lot of ballast by just liberally sprinkling some ballast on top. It is particularly useful if you are using Kato pre-ballasted track as it is easy to cut and shape and is the same thickness.
@@ChadwickModelRailway nope, its pretty solid stuff and the painted gives it some extra integrity once it dries. Oh, and another cheap way to make large ballasted areas is to use coarse sheets of sandpaper that you can also paint, although they are much better for roads and car parks.
![KAYTRANADA - Witchy (feat. Childish Gambino) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jGK3YVmGZ3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
My grandfather used to say "There is more than one way to skin a cat - but no way to do it so the cat will like it"
Nice saying Dale.
My grandad used to say There's more than one way to kill a cat than choking it with cream
I must be the only one who loved the noise of trains rumbling along as a child. I always wanted it louder !
Each to our own Mr D
Charlie, thanks for all the time you have given to this channel. I get tickled at some of your wording . Yes I am a yank , and get most of them. My layout is forever changing and my daughter and I love this hobby. We cannot have anything permanent, moving in two years. In closing thanks for serving , even over here one vet appreciates another.
What a heart warming comment Benjamin. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
You have some really great videos that everyone should watch no matter how many years one has been model railroading'
It never hurts to see how the other guy does something as it may be better or faster than the way you have done it for years.
Thanks for your videos even after 60 years of model Railroading I like to learn new ways of working on my hobby.
Thank you. It’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
So simple, Charlie - thank you! You've just taken the mystique out of ballasting. Great presenting style!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Richard.
Cheers from Tennessee. Great video, Charlie! Thanks from a dedicated O Gauge 3-Railer.
Erer.
It’s great to have you onboard Erer.
I’m Ron. Silly spellcheck signed me off as “Erer”. Ha. I need to be more careful before I send. I start to ballast today. I’ll use the “Charlie Method”!
One of the best videos I have seen on track laying. Excellent
Thanks David, you’re too kind, regards Charlie
I have only been building model railways for about 1 year and only just got around to ballasting my layout in December. I took the advice to build a practice board, this gave me the confidence to start on the main layout. I have looked at many videos on how to ballast but this was the best by far. I used all the advice and I am very happy with the results it has given me. Thank you for this great video. I will always the Chadwick videos first.
Thanks David, that’s very reassuring of you. Regards Charlie
Feeling inspired. Been down to Monk Bar Model Shop today in York and bought loads of basic stuff, ballast, paint greenery etc with a view to having a go at my first landscape scene with my old Hornby track from 50 years ago. Thank you for such simple effective techniques and videos.
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful Andrea.
One of the best ballast techniques explained and demoed, so well detailed to appreciate the exact how!
Thanks Josef, i’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate.
Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie! Thanks for taking your time to share with us beginners, how we can do things smarter and better. I can't wait to give this a try.
Kenny, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and hopefully you have subscribed too
Thanks Charlie! You have confirmed that I have done it correctly!
That’s great news David, regards Charlie
What a great video, for those new to the hobby, or even for some that have been doing it for years, the information put across in this video could save someone a lot of time and frustration. Great that people like Charlie are willing to spread some tricks of the trade, so to speak.
Thanks Steve you’re too kind
Thnanks, Charlie, for your clear and easy-looking ballasting, plus weathering the track. I shall follow your instructions on my new layout!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Elizabeth and hopefully you’ve subscribed too.
Just found your channel yesterday. Even as an American modeler these are great tips for modeling!
It's great to have you onboard buddy.
Model Railroads. The magic of thinking small. Nice detail and speed.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Edward.
Another nicely done and informative video Charlie. Your contributions to the
hobby are very much appreciated. I'm a big fan of your channel because you
post your less than perfect efforts, right along with the successful things. This
has taught me to lose my fear of making mistakes. Cheers!
None of us are perfect David and I do so like honesty.
Wonderful video! Well done! I feel much better about ballasting my N scale layout. Thanks again!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Conrad.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Look forward to seeing more videos. Thanks again. Conrad in Atlanta, Ga. Supervisor of the Stone Mountain Railroad
The vacuum cleaner tip is legendary! Cheers Charlie..!
Thanks X1
Brilliant. I thought once he uses the vacuum cleaner he would muck it all up. Wife's tight to the rescue. I will heed your advise and check all my track and points before I lay the ballast. Thank you. A day is not wasted if you can have a cup of tea, and learn something. 👍
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you found a video useful. Regards Charlie
Great! Even though you made this a year ago it’s a very informative video, just about to ballast so this will be very useful. I have decided to lay large sheet dense styrene foam 30mm thick over my entire base boards to reduce noise, I have one long incline from one level to another that I didn’t foam and it is twice as loud, so the sheet foam works reasonably well. Thanks Leigh.
Leigh I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Your videos are VERY informative,I have been out of the hobby for 25 years so I need a refresher,thanks.
Thanks Daniel, now can you help me?
I need the name of a couple of popular Facebook railroad modelling sites in the US to spread my wings.
Do you know any?
Brilliant vid Charlie. I love your sense of humour too.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
I used this same method 45 years ago when ballasting my HO gauge track and later when compacting roadbed on a 16 inch gauge line I poured many gallons of slightly soapy water down the middle of the rails. The water soaked in immediately and we didn't have to tamp any of the fill to get it packed. Works great.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Harold. This technique is older than I thought.
I used plasticard to reduce the size of my applicator's center slot, thus limiting flow. Doing this might nigate the need to vacuum. It makes ballasting way quicker. Masking tape also works. Excellent channel. Keep up the good work.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Paul.
Thanks for this. As a newbie I found it very informative.
Glad it was helpful Derek.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, The old school method for sound deadening was placing Homosote (a papier-mâché type produce made from recycled paper that is compressed under high temperature, high pressure and held together with an adhesive) on top of the plywood sub base. The cork roadbed was then placed on top of the Homosote. Your method of ballasting is very similar to mine, except I do use 50% IPA as a wetting agent. I believe the surface tension of IPA is less than water, allowing the glue to thoroughly penetrate the ballast. I use a 3:1 mixture of water and PVA (Good Old Elmer's White Glue), I've found this formula still holds the ballast very well and reduces the amount of glue needed for the job. I am fortunate, in my area we have a model railway company that produces actual scale sized ballast made from the same ballast as used on the prototype railways. For years I used Woodland Scenics ballast (I still use all of their other products) but was not 100% satisfied with the appearance. Since switching to real ballast, I doubt I'd ever switch back to Woodland Scenics clay ballast. Note, this is just my personal opinion and should not be viewed as a negative response toward Woodland Scenics great selection of of model railroad products. Cheers, Rich S.
Thanks Rich for such an interesting response. By using IPA I imaging that it will dry out quicker too.
I also use Homasot. I have had no problems with it. I use 6-32 beval screws to fasten to the 1/2 inch plywood- no glue.
I though you were making several mistakes but... now that it is done I am impressed. Good work and great teaching.
Thanks Doc, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie, I was going to do a video about the noise issue as I've been doing some experiments for some time now using an app on my phone that measures in decibels. I have some interesting ISO-rubber sheets to try out soon (we use them to sound proof new build houses close to Heathrow Airport). As with any isolating membrane the soundproofing must cover the entire area affected by noise. You're absolutely correct about the ballast propagating the vibrations through to the baseboards and also the track pins will do this albeit on a smaller scale. The only way to completely isolate the track and ballast is to lay the cork wider so the ballast is isolated too. A big difference in noise reduction can be achieved, when ballasting between two tracks, by allowing the cork to run across the full width of both without a break through the middle. You can chamfer the edges to allow the ballast to cover the cork without having too much touching the base. A more expensive, but much more effective, way is to apply an underlayer of cork to a larger area where track is to be laid and then continue as normal. The thickness of the cork will also play a part; the thicker, the better. It's a difficult one to deal with if the track has already been laid as the rumble comes from the entire woodwork, legs and all. If you have any plastercloth scenery like hills and tunnels they'll also become amplifiers. The only way is to damp the vibrations at source. I hope this is helpful, Charlie, and thanks for another great video. All the best...Tom
Hi Tom, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. I will in time do some experiments on various materials. The ISO sheets sound intriguing.
Thanks Charlie I watch a lot of your videos not only for the great info you impart but I like the way you present the subject with light humour. I have been dabbling with Model Railroads for the past 60years and still call myself a beginner. As I am in Australia without You Tube it would be considerably harder to get decent information. So keep it up keep the videos coming
What a heartwarming comment Neil, you’re too kind mate.
Hey Charlie, This is a very interesting, informative and easy to follow video - that is perfect for beginners like me!
Many Thanks!!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Clive.
Learning a bit from your videos
I’m glad to help Stewart.
Regards Charlie
Great idea Charlie and something I will replicate myself. Rather than just making a program track, do it with style! There are alot of ballast types, colors, sizes and so on as well which i need to research on so I enjoyed watching your feedback and commenting on the prototype of ballasting. Using the vacuum cleaner is a genius idea! All the best, Clint
Hi Clint, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Best tool since the invention of sliced bread. Great tip & good stuff.
So true.
Charlie,
My benchwork consists of 1/2 inch plywood, then 1 inch of extruded foam board, followed by Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, and then the track. My locos run very smooth and quiet. The track is pinned and the pins are 1 inch and do not make it down to the plywood layer. I have no issues with humming etc. I mentioned prior that the roadbed is foam tacked to the foam layer, and the pins are held tightly by going into this foam layer smear. Regards,
Bob
Clearly a successful strategy Robert
So glad I found this, It has really helped me to use my ballast hopper.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Darron
I wish I knew about these methods when I was ballasting my track. It's all done now. Anyway, if I need to re- ballast I can use this method.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John
I have used 4" wide strips of old tire inner tubes as a base for the cork, track and ballast. If you are using foam board, use the inner tube strips on the top surface and put a coat of automotive undercoat on the bottom side of the foam board.
Now there is an interesting alternative Randy.
Regards, Charlie
Thank you, Charlie. Great vid, well-presented. You have a new subscriber!
I’m so pleased to have you onboard Bill.
I'm not a railway modeller but I do like good examples of the art. I'm new to this channel and I was immediatey impressed by your attention to detail. Especially how that approach applies to everything; not just the railway itself, but the camerawork and production. To me your railway is art but the audio-visual is science. Every aspect of your work is admirable from lighting and sound, to sharpness and editing. Overall I like your consistency. Your presentation is down to earth and yet epitomises good preparation, skill and experience. Thank you - I could watch for hours!
What a heartwarming comment John, and that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie
Just latched onto your video's and I'm very impressed. I like the presentation, clean and easy to understand. One thing I would like covered is signaling. The basic amateur, like me, comes up with a track plan and can't wait to have trains running, but what about signals i.e. what goes where and is correct for my track layout. If you could look at that aspect I'm sure you would get a big response.Best Rgds, Ozzie Dave - Ex Pom
A good idea for a future video Dave and I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos.
Thank you for sharing
My pleasure BT.
Hi Charlie, another great video as always! I would love it if you could do a video on signals. This is an area that I find very daunting, as my new layout is set in the mid sixties, and am unsure which type of signals to use? I also really struggle to understand where signals should be placed on the layout and which ones go where! I know this is a massive subject, but it seems there are limited videos on railway signals on RUclips most likely as it is all rather complicated, if you could offer a beginners guide this would be most helpful Not only to me but all your subscribers, as I’m sure I’m not the only one! Many thanks, keep up the great work! Peter
An interesting point Peter which I'll certainly look into.
I second this request, an idiots guide to early/mid 20th century signalling would be (as the Pickwick, Owl and Waverley pens) a boon and a blessing to men.
You’re not the first to mention it Peter but no promises just yet.
Fantastic presentation. Fits the bill for me and I am passing it on to others.
Thanks Bob and I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Great stuff Charlie. I was one of many that asked how you do the ballasting and it's great to see. You mentioned that this piece of track would be used for programming - would you be able to do a video explaining how you would go about wiring a short piece of single track like this under DCC conditions.
I’ll add it to the list mate.
This is a great video. Currently building a small layout with my son, it's our first time and your videos are making it so much more enjoyable for us.
What a great father and son bonding exercise Luke. I wish you well. Regards Charlie
Some good ideas there. I always recommend trying something new on a short piece of track, so if it goes wrong, you have not ruined anything. You did this but did not mention it.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Rip72.
Very helpful l have done all my balist now it is easy when you know how 😊
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful Joe. Regards, Charlie
Why am I watching this, I don't even have a model train set.
Because Joshua, you will build one in the future, hopefully.
Charlie, Very nicely done. I tried the vacuum trick and it works, another satisfied customer, thank you. I find I pre-paint the track with Tamiya spray matt brown paint, it's touch dry in 15 mins. I then remove the paint from the railhead before glueing down.I use the i.pa. and water method. Also big " Ups" to you on joining the Mckinley Railway Team. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris. McKinley is a true monster.
Hi Charlie, I've laid some of mine straight onto 5mm foam solid floor underlay and it seems to absorb a lot of the noise. Once ballasted you wouldn't know any difference.
Good idea Chris.
@@ChadwickModelRailway awesome.
Greetings from West Virginia. Homasote, a paper based product similar to the wood based MDF, is used by some for sound deadening, but I don't like working with the stuff. I do my track ballasting like yours except for using Woodland Scenics foam ballast and add the granular over it. Have found for me it is the best method, but may give the thin cork a try - looks very nice. Gives a very solid base.
I'm so pleased that you found it useful CT.
Charlie,I really enjoyed watching this video and like the method you displayed. What company make the ballast spreader you are using in the video? Never thought I would see someone suck up ballast before gluing and get away with not bring everything up, nice job. Thanks so much for sharing you method and ideas. Cheers!!
Muse
Check out the “Show More” tab for details.
Excellent as ever, concise, informative and watchable. FYI, for sound proofing instead of cork underlay, I’ve been using two layers of 3mm closed cell dense foam, one layer covers entire baseboard second layer under the track. That way the ballast PVA mix never comes into contact with the wooden baseboard top. Important not to accidentally cut through the lower layer of foam when cutting the upper layer as this could create a sound bridge allowing pva into the slice in the lower foam.
Very interesting Noel.
Where did you get the 3mm foam from?
@@ChadwickModelRailway @@ChadwickModelRailway www.efoam.co.uk/closed-cell-polyethylene-foam.php#sheet1 I used their black 3mm stuff with adhesive backing. Pics here before ballasting: www.derg.ie/albums/gort/DSC_1607.jpg
www.derg.ie/albums/gort/GortMontage01.jpg
The 6mm total thickness of the double layer is perfect for track pins to just make contact with the play baseboard surface and can be pushed in by hand using edge of wire cutters. Dave McCabe of WMRC gave me the tip a few years ago. I hoping to rebel and reballast my main layout using the same stuff.
I learned a lot from the video.
When I was little,we had a small layout and the tracks were only tacked down on top of felt.lol.noisy to.
I have only recently gotten back into the hobby and want to “model” the Southwest United States.
Question for you.do you think gluing strips of yoga mat under the platform where the tracks are will deaden the sound?
I’ve no idea John but it might be a bit thick. I’ve gone for Woodland Scenics track bed.
Chadwick Model Railway what about under the plywood.sideview= yoga mat,plywood,roadbed,track.
Really appreciate the video. To the point and easy to follow. Thank you
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and found it useful.
T
Hi Charlie. I’m about to start from scratch at age 60. I’m getting a shed to build in and i haven’t built a model railway since I was a kid. So only childish memories but still had my layout untill I was 17, then discovered motorcycles and girls.. BIG MISTAKE. Should have stayed with the railway.
Is it to late for me now?? My eyesight has deteriorated and my fingers feel like sausages but I’d love to just immerse myself into this hobby again.. do people of my age start from scratch? And do you read any magazines that would help me ??
Phil
Phil, the world is your oyster.
Lots of research and attend loads of shows.
Sheer excitement awaits you.
Don’t build a small shed!
phil3380 hi Phil, I am in the same boat as you. (I should I say train) Similar age and similar experience. Charlie’s fantastic videos are going to be a great help.
Charlie, if you think about it you have created a sound board similar to a violin. Irrespective of the methods used, the structure will amplify the sound. To deaden the sound I have used to good effect the sound deadening material from the automotive field. It was quite cheap and was glued to the underside of the board. Works really well.
I think that you’re dead right.
Did you buy it from Halfords?
Hi Charlie, I bought the sound deadening material from my local car spares shop. It is the thick felt type about 20mm thick.
Just an FYI, you “can” get a airbrushe system cheaper than most engines.
A fair point Roger.
Hi Charlie, thank you for sharing your skills and techniques. And I admire your presenting style as well. I never tried ballasting when I last was into RM aged 14 so this was a really helpful guide! All the best, Jon Roach
ThanksJon, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Good luck with your project, regards Charlie.
I am a bit odd when it comes to noise. I like having a loud layout.
We all have our own opinions mate and yours aren’t wrong.
I probably wouldn't mind the noise much, railways are loud anyway, especially if you add DCC sound
Thanks so much! I’m just starting the ballasting on my railroad and this video was extremely helpful because I had no clue how to do it!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jonah.
Charlie, a very well crafted presentation! From California, USA
Thanks Stew. I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, even though there’s lots of videos and regular updates, for me there’s a set of core videos to refer to and this is one of them. Painting and ballasting raises many questions, some videos have the paint being removed from the rail tops as it’s applied, some have painting with the ballast in situ. This (method in your video) for me is the most straightforward way, all paint, all PVA on first, then all removed from the tops in one action. Makes perfect sense.
Agree on the availability of sleeper grime. I’ve just taken some cans but in many places it’s out of stock and as you say you have to take the courier option as Royal Mail won’t transport it. I agree with the airbrush reference too, I’m certainly not going to buy one and learn how to use it when I only need it once. Once I’ve painted the track, that’s going to be it. Got my tools and materials, the only thing I forgot to order was a couple of track rubbers. Oooops……
Thanks, Captain. Pub watch, for such a levelheaded and sensible comment. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie, I don’t like to double post replies but for anyone looking who hasn’t used Sleeper Grime your advice on spraying outdoors is very prudent. The stuff absolutely reeks! Even after twelve hours and with an open window the upstairs of my house is still very heavy with it. I didn’t worry about the overspray as I have no scenics down at the moment and my track was secured in place…..but my oh my : 0
Charlie, thanks for a very helpful video and speed ballast just what I needed. Most useful and practical. Thanks, again. - Dean from Minnesota USA
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dean.
It looks bloody good! Thank you so much for all you are doing on your site with so many ideas and tips. I just retired from teaching and am diving into planning my train hobby full stream. Keep it up, mate! Ed L from Iowa, USA.
Thanks Ed, I’m so pleased that you find my video Channel interesting.
Stay safe , regards, Charlie
I am new to modelling & this video made a lot of sense. thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it UD
Very informative video thanks for sharing your knowledge cheers.
Thanks Kevin, you’re most welcome.
Really interesting - some great tips - my favourite of all was the vacuuming up through the tights!
Sometimes Gordon, the simplest way is the best. Regards Charlie
thank, you for you're video.
I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting Gerland. Regards, Charlie.
Add foam to the top of your support board, as dissimilar materials cancel out sound transmission. I’ve done this on my N-Scale layout and it dramatically lowered the sound drumming.
Pre-painting your track prior to laying is one of the best options.
Excellent suggestions ANR.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, Another hit I think - as good a demo of ballasting as you could wish for. All tips gratefully received. You started the demo with some information about sound transmission into the baseboard. You never mentioned Sundaela board. I know it is expensive but it is light weight and very good at reducing noise. I have always been very happy with the results. It is also a recycled material and could be recycled at the end of life - a plus these days.
It just needs decent support Graham, or it will soon sag (a bit like us)!
Regards Charlie
I'm actually doing ballasting again myself at the moment, and have just watched this video again Charlie, so as to recap on your methods, which are pretty good really. `I especially like the teaspoon tapping and vacuuming, the latter of which is pretty brave. I use 1/8" (3mm) high cork from Charles Cantrell which comes in a roll. The only problem with it, is that it's not chamfered at the edges. So I've started to put a silicone sealant along the edges of the cork and wipe it with a 45 degree cut piece of old credit card, then generously sprinkle the ballast on that, and press it into the sealant so that it sticks, I have to do no more than a yard at a time because otherwise the sealant goes off. If any ballast is missing it can be added later when the track centre and sleepers either side are ballasted and stuck with 50/50% PVA and water. Hope this might help others, who use the same cork as I do.
That really is an excellent tip. I had never thought of using sealant. Regards, Charlie
Nice discussion. Well illustrated. Thanks.
Thanks Austin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Thanks so much. Will keep an open eye for the ballast hopper. Have done quite a lot of ballasting, but your approach is worth the try.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Graham.
Hi Charlie. I'm a builder that uses sound proofing boards with sound proofing adhesive. Trust me, egg boxes does NOT work, it's an old myth so don't waste your time. I find that foam track bed is the best answer after lots of experiments. Love your vids. Regards, Rick Bulldog of Digon Alley Station. Yes I'm a Harry Potter fan !!!!
Thanks Richard, that’s most useful mate.
Excellent. Taking lots of notes in readiness for my layout later this year. Good hints and tips. Look forward to more
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it TV
@@ChadwickModelRailway not a problem at all. Must pull my finger out
I have to say that although I model O scale, 3 rail, I thoroughly enjoy your videos and I do learn quite a bit of technique that is applicable to any scale.
So thank you again Charlie!
I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting John. Regards Charlie
A very clear and useful video. Thanks.
Thanks Rich, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Hi Charlie; great video no ballasting! Here is what i do for noise counseling. I use foam board. Blue or pink, whichever you prefer. I laid the sub road bed, on my layout it's 3quarter inc pylewood, then the foamboard, topped off with the cork roadbed. I tried this on my fourth HO scale layout, and I was amazed at how much of the noise was cancelled. And it seem that the trains run smoother. I wood recommend this process. It's an expensive way to get the best results, however it really does the job. I reallly love your videos!!!😊
Thanks for the advice Clarence, you’re not the first to mention that.
Good morning, Charlie. Thanks for a straight forward approach to ballasting the track. Since I'm a "follower the recipe" person, I like to do it step by step and your approach fits that regiment. This approach that you use gives me the confidence to ballast successfully. Thanks. - Dean from Minnesota
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dean.
so precision vacuuming is a new skill we all have to learn. lol.. looks great. and easy. oh and fast
I still find it incredible myself!
Thats brilliant thankyou.
Thanks Tony, so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Similar ballast spreaders are available in the USA from Bachman on Amazon for about $20.
I 've found that a layer of cork roadbed under the ties helps considerably with noise.
The new standard in America is to glue the cork to the plywood and track to the cork with a thin layer of latex acrylic caulking compound. This leaves no nails (pins) to transmit noise into the plywood.
We use diluted Elmer's glue for the gluing medium, similar to the glue you use, which dries rock hard and transmits noise itself.
Here the glue comes in smaller bottles with a relatively small hole in addition to gallon bottles. I use one of the smaller bottles to apply the glue. It gives control similar to the pipette.
Some have advocated using diluted artist's matte medium for ballast glue because it dries more flexible and doesn't transmit noise as well. It is far more expensive than the glue here. I've done short sections this way but can't really tell the difference.
The methods I use are exactly the same. I've also used this method to glue down scenery items like rip rap and loose rock in a quarry or along the base of a cliff.
Thanks BL, for such a detailed response. Regards Charlie
Hi Chad i use to use 3 mm cork and I found that a cardboard with the corrugated between works real good and of coarse and about the same thickness. which has air space to damp down the sound.
Thanks Rodney, a good tip.
Great job charlie the way you ballasted the track is exactly the way i do it too and i find no problems at all and it looks good and it's quicker than other methods i find to you have made another great video with how to steps easy to understand and straight forward thanks again all the best john from rugby .
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video John.
Hi, Charlie.
Another great "how to" in your series. Thanks for posting. You mention the 'traditional' method of applying ballast to the track, and others may be interested in learning another reason it seems to be going out of fashion. One of my former workmates was building a model of somewhere on the Swiss Metre Gauge system, and he'd reached the ballasting stage. He came in one morning, slumped into a chair - not his - and declared he'd had a disaster the previous night. We all thought the cooker, freezer or television had died, but it was far more improtant to him than that! This ballast is dusty stuff, and he'd obviously not been using a mask. He'd not yet got to the point of gluing it down, either, and this dust had made him sneeze. He couldn't wait to finish his shift, so he could go home and start again. So, folks, don't wear a mask only when spraying paint, use one when ballasting, too!!!
Cheers!
A great point Peter. I’ve heard that natural ballast can be dusty but I have never used it.
Like the idea of vacuuming the ballast before gluing it down. Wouldn't have thought of that but it seems to work well - will have to give it a try. Thanks for sharing Charlie! Best, John
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John
Nice easy explanation of a subject a lot of newcomers hate. Well done Charlie, top job..Chris
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris
Thanks Charlie for great and very informative videos. Lots of great advice. Greetings meanwhile from Canada
Thanks BJ, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Thanks Charlie , I will be Ballasting tomorrow , 👍👍👍
And good luck with it David. Regards Charlie
Just about to start building a model railway in the loft.... This video was very helpful, thank you.
loungelizards1 I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Another excellent video. A bit of humour always helps. I have yet to build my layout. Spending 6 months a year in Cyprus sort of hampers my garage conversion work. Probably finish it at the same time that Brexit happens! What I have read is that Copydex is the stuff to use as it dries as a 'flexible' layer. Another thought that I had on the noise front is to cover virtually my whole baseboard in cork sheet then put the cork strips down to go under the track on top of this.. The ballast will then be glued onto the top of the main cork sheet and not direct onto the plywood baseboard. This is only a theory :) Keep them coming. Cheers. Pete
Morning Pete, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the latest upload.
Your point on a cork base layer is very interesting. I’m pretty sure that I’ll do that on future scenic sections. I’m going to use 3mm cork across the fiddle yard so it will be interesting to note the noise without ballast applied.
Regards Charlie.
Kia ora ,Charlie, On the subject of track noise,modellers can use the IKEA carpet felt which is rubberised (recommended by Martin/Marklin of Sweden) I also use the rubber shelf liners in various colours. This holds ballast well,and can be built up in layers. Easy to cut,has mesh patterns and cheap in large rolls from discount stores/$2 shops etc (in New Zealand) Hope this helps.
Thanks Simon, I’ll certainly check out Marklins video if I can find it, he has so many. Do you know the title?
Hi again ,Charlie. greetings from Levin ,NZ. Martins video is reduce track noise low cost .@@ChadwickModelRailway
Great video. Thanks for the beginners angle on all of this which I have found really useful.
Thanks Richard, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I've just started building an N gauge layout and ballasting has been a big fear of mine. After watching this video and ordering the right bits for the job I'm feeling a lot better about the task. Thank you for the tips!
I'll be sure to check out more of your videos.
That’s very kind of you to say so mate. Regards Charlie
On the network, the red/pink ballast comes from near Loughborough, and the blue ballast comes from Porthmadog in Wales.
Thanks Ashley, great info.
Regards Charlie
A cheap way to lay a lot of ballast in a large area such as a marshalling yard is to buy an A1 sheet of foam card and remove the top layer to expose the foam. The texture of the foam has a ballast look to it and if you give it a coat of paint similar to the ballast you can save a lot of ballast by just liberally sprinkling some ballast on top. It is particularly useful if you are using Kato pre-ballasted track as it is easy to cut and shape and is the same thickness.
An interesting point Tsu, does the foam not deteriorate or time?
@@ChadwickModelRailway nope, its pretty solid stuff and the painted gives it some extra integrity once it dries. Oh, and another cheap way to make large ballasted areas is to use coarse sheets of sandpaper that you can also paint, although they are much better for roads and car parks.
Great video. Your reminder to paint the track before ballasting will save me much headache!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it C K