I'm 55 and I am finally coming to plan and build my first and possibly only layout. It's a simple Bredon style on a 7ft X 4ft board from Peco's trackplans book; heavy on scenics, light, as possible on the overly technical stuff! But your How To vids are absolutely brilliant for showing a complete novice railway modeller like me, how to get on and start building my railway. Thank you indeed for sharing your knowledge in a friendly and highly informative way. I really enjoy your beautiful layout.
Just in midst of laying own an n gauge track at the ripe old age of 70! Your confident, informative and pleasant style of presentation is exceptional? I was a barrister for 40 years and know something about presenting a case in court! Keep up the good work!
One more techinique you might add, especially where you don't want ballast by the points, simply paint the cork roadbed. I took some ballast I was to be using to Home Depot (here in the US, but any paint store can do this), and after picking some likely color sample cards, sprinkled ballast on them, picked the particular sample cards that best matched the two colors of ballast I would be using, and had the store mix a quart (approximately a litre) of each in latex flat paint. After ballasting, if there were any "holidays" they just didn't show. But especially around points I could minimize the amount of ballast being used and still look good.
Thanks for this. I paint the glue on the sides of the track and put ballast on and then leave it. No need to pull it off of the tops of the ties as there is no glue there. I even tape off the road bed where I don't want ballast and it gives a good line. Then in the morning (next day or when ever you get back to the layout) yoi can brush the loose ballast up on the rail and basically spread it. Adding more where it needs it and then I wet the area with wet water and with a very small bottle I drip very delute glue on the track and around the turnouts. The extra ballast will fall out over the taped area and make it look softer as the real RR would look.
So life like it even has that sound where each wheel hits the gap between the two sections much like i hear when a train crosses the kingsferry bridge near where i live :). I have to say your attention to detail is amazing throughout!
note if your ballasting points keep the glue away from the control rods only do the sides,the sleepers, behind the points, and the frogs keep the glue 1 cm (2 feet in the International system 1 Centimeter is the Brit system) away from the points or they will be welded shut and you have to start from scratch with a new turnout. if ballast gets near the points or in the flangeways use a micro brush to remove it or vacuum it out. when your done assemble a MOW train in the yard and have one car with a cleaning block underneath to remove grit from the railheads.
I’ve been ballasting track today but left out the points for another day , basically through being a tad worried. But I definitely like your way . Thank you .
Thanks for showing how to ballast a point. So few people show this process. I will keep this for future reference when I start to ballast my own layout Thanks for sharing. Randy
Had a go today...waiting for it to dry...had an idea about how to get less glue on the sleepers etc when using neat pva...I used the little glue pipet you get with flat pack furniture to pop a dab in an then spread with a brush!
i like the finish very much, and of course there is no right or wrong way this is art after all. I do find however from watching a few vids now on ballasting model rails, in my opinion, i prefer the ones where they apply the ballast dry, distribute it into the sleppers etc with a dry paint brush - then with a syrindge drop watered down wood glue into the ballast. but thats just what is appealing to me. everyone has there own way and i enjoyed your techniques also. wish i had the space for 00 im N
You're braver than me...I would have to leave quite a gap around the tie bar. Wouldn't want ballast dropping down into the point motor. But your railway does look great.
You make it look easy! I'm really not looking forward to this job but this does give me a bit more confidence to give it a go. One thing I wondered - would it be easier to water down the pva, so that it will flow into the sleeper gaps on its own? Might cut down the risk of getting glue on switch rails. Anyway thanks again for the vid, really helpful.
I must thin my glue a lot more than I see on the videos as the glue I use just is sucked up and does not stay on top. The dry ballast is like rock though. This is good and saves money. Woodland Scenic is good but thin Elmers glue is as good and is less money. I even sypray it and clean the sprayer good after.
Time to learn how to hand build your own points? Before Concrete sleepered points, points were designed to fit the available space, so unlike the model world they didn't have small, medium & large. Each point was therefore a unique item. A handbuilt point of 5ft radius takes me 2 hours to build and costs around £4-£5 in parts (2020 prices). I don't use any complex tools , only copperclad sleeper strip and code 75 Bullhead rail, (from SMP Marcway in Sheffield) a fine, angled tip Antex XS25 modellers soldering iron. A couple of large but very fine files. 3 roll gauges (to hold rail in place while I solder it), and a number of my own "Tracksetta" tools as I make points between 5ft radii & 7ft 6in radii for exhibition layouts. Lastly a mini-drill with carbonundrum discs to cut the rail (NEVER use "rail cutting snipers" these items are blunt when you buy them and simply pinch the rail end). Building you own points basically means you can make any size you like, as per the real world, and save a fortune !
And again an outstanding tut! Camera's always on the right spot, clear explanations & pleasant sonorous voice! It's prob. the best of ur vidz so far... 1c more I'm on t edge of my seat waitin' 4 the next one. =) Little drop of bitterness: After the new point (heading tow. the tunnel) where it is attached to the existing track it's little "bumpy" as u can see on the first drive by lookin' at the upper back of the waggons. Might be because of the connection to the already curved track!? ^^
H. L. Wyatt Hello, I am fascinated by your superb weathering of rolling stock and scenery, I know that it would be a fiddly job in doing rails and points but rails even when new are rusty as are the chairs, the point check rails and wing rails are both not weathered, otherwise your layout is just great.
Rather than using a track rubber to clean the top of the track, try a piece of hardboard, matt side down, does not leave fine scratch marks that pick up dirt.
I usually paint the base plate grey, take some clear double sided sticky tape there, leaving a gap for the moving sleeper of course, put the turnout into position and sprinkle ballast on the tape. Faster, easier, safer. Fair to say though I have N gaube so the gaps between the sleepers are smaller and the ballast is finer. Might deliver not that satisfying results in 00.
An excellent video. like the "speeded up" bit on what would otherwise be a long drawn out process. did you find you had any problems with ballast falling in the hole where you store the stock under the board?
thanks for this video! my layout used to have nice ballasted areas then when there were points UGLY there was just these patches at points where is didnt ballast now i can thanks To you :)
I paint the roadbed in the same colour as the rest of the ballast, but I never ever ballast near the moving parts of the points, not a lot of people do.
good job mate.there are alot of people out there that are unsure how to do this but not any more. the curve in the new point is certainly not as noticeable as the last and its amazing how much difference a change this small makes to a layout. what are you doing with the gap in the base board in front of that point?
Fantastic tutorials these. I watched your other ballasting video earlier and would like to ask, why the different technique? Because of the moving parts?
Really finding your techniques for everything interesting. i'm hoping to start my railway soon as my baseboard is on order, so within the next couple of weeks starts the fun. What do you use underneath the track as it looks slightly higher than the rest of the board?
Хобби
I'm 55 and I am finally coming to plan and build my first and possibly only layout. It's a simple Bredon style on a 7ft X 4ft board from Peco's trackplans book; heavy on scenics, light, as possible on the overly technical stuff! But your How To vids are absolutely brilliant for showing a complete novice railway modeller like me, how to get on and start building my railway. Thank you indeed for sharing your knowledge in a friendly and highly informative way. I really enjoy your beautiful layout.
Just in midst of laying own an n gauge track at the ripe old age of 70! Your confident, informative and pleasant style of presentation is exceptional? I was a barrister for 40 years and know something about presenting a case in court! Keep up the good work!
One more techinique you might add, especially where you don't want ballast by the points, simply paint the cork roadbed. I took some ballast I was to be using to Home Depot (here in the US, but any paint store can do this), and after picking some likely color sample cards, sprinkled ballast on them, picked the particular sample cards that best matched the two colors of ballast I would be using, and had the store mix a quart (approximately a litre) of each in latex flat paint. After ballasting, if there were any "holidays" they just didn't show. But especially around points I could minimize the amount of ballast being used and still look good.
Just getting started in the hobby but this video is exceptional. Your narrative of actions being taken is very easy to follow.
blaiseduff Is your layout DCC?
Isaac Swartz g
Thanks for this. I paint the glue on the sides of the track and put ballast on and then leave it. No need to pull it off of the tops of the ties as there is no glue there. I even tape off the road bed where I don't want ballast and it gives a good line. Then in the morning (next day or when ever you get back to the layout) yoi can brush the loose ballast up on the rail and basically spread it. Adding more where it needs it and then I wet the area with wet water and with a very small bottle I drip very delute glue on the track and around the turnouts. The extra ballast will fall out over the taped area and make it look softer as the real RR would look.
Thank you for taking the time in preparing this video. It was well done and I learned a lot from watching.
So life like it even has that sound where each wheel hits the gap between the two sections much like i hear when a train crosses the kingsferry bridge near where i live :). I have to say your attention to detail is amazing throughout!
Just starting again after a few decades break. That was so well done and helpful. Thank-you.
note if your ballasting points keep the glue away from the control rods only do the sides,the sleepers, behind the points, and the frogs keep the glue 1 cm (2 feet in the International system 1 Centimeter is the Brit system) away from the points or they will be welded shut and you have to start from scratch with a new turnout. if ballast gets near the points or in the flangeways use a micro brush to remove it or vacuum it out. when your done assemble a MOW train in the yard and have one car with a cleaning block underneath to remove grit from the railheads.
I’ve been ballasting track today but left out the points for another day , basically through being a tad worried. But I definitely like your way . Thank you .
Good video Richard. I'll certainly remember your techniques of track laying. Thanks 👍
Thanks for showing how to ballast a point. So few people show this process. I will keep this for future reference when I start to ballast my own layout Thanks for sharing. Randy
Had a go today...waiting for it to dry...had an idea about how to get less glue on the sleepers etc when using neat pva...I used the little glue pipet you get with flat pack furniture to pop a dab in an then spread with a brush!
i like the finish very much, and of course there is no right or wrong way this is art after all. I do find however from watching a few vids now on ballasting model rails, in my opinion, i prefer the ones where they apply the ballast dry, distribute it into the sleppers etc with a dry paint brush - then with a syrindge drop watered down wood glue into the ballast. but thats just what is appealing to me. everyone has there own way and i enjoyed your techniques also. wish i had the space for 00 im N
Totally agree with your remark about the mainline point, tight turns bug me too.
This was the best thing I could have ever found for my model Railway thank goddess I'm just starting to lay track
I have just ordered new tracks Peco code75.I´m glad that you are happy with yours tracks from Peco.I shall use Tortoise motor for my new turnouts.
Excellant video, just ready to start the ballasting now. Thank you.
Excellent video I'm now ready to try on my layout an l of a layout 12' x 12'. this series has been very helpful to me but i am in my second childhood.
You're braver than me...I would have to leave quite a gap around the tie bar. Wouldn't want ballast dropping down into the point motor. But your railway does look great.
Some great ideas in this video and the production quality is excellent. Well done.
Brilliant how to! Shall be using it for my c&l finescale points
You make it look easy! I'm really not looking forward to this job but this does give me a bit more confidence to give it a go. One thing I wondered - would it be easier to water down the pva, so that it will flow into the sleeper gaps on its own? Might cut down the risk of getting glue on switch rails. Anyway thanks again for the vid, really helpful.
Yeah, most people use a 50-50mix of PCs and water, with a drop of washing up liquid too
Great alternative to spraying loose ballast with glue mix. I'll give your method a try.
I must thin my glue a lot more than I see on the videos as the glue I use just is sucked up and does not stay on top. The dry ballast is like rock though. This is good and saves money. Woodland Scenic is good but thin Elmers glue is as good and is less money. I even sypray it and clean the sprayer good after.
On the railway cribs with stretcher bars should have no ballast 50mm below the stretcher bar so the points move freely in snow conditions
Time to learn how to hand build your own points? Before Concrete sleepered points, points were designed to fit the available space, so unlike the model world they didn't have small, medium & large. Each point was therefore a unique item. A handbuilt point of 5ft radius takes me 2 hours to build and costs around £4-£5 in parts (2020 prices). I don't use any complex tools , only copperclad sleeper strip and code 75 Bullhead rail, (from SMP Marcway in Sheffield) a fine, angled tip Antex XS25 modellers soldering iron. A couple of large but very fine files. 3 roll gauges (to hold rail in place while I solder it), and a number of my own "Tracksetta" tools as I make points between 5ft radii & 7ft 6in radii for exhibition layouts. Lastly a mini-drill with carbonundrum discs to cut the rail (NEVER use "rail cutting snipers" these items are blunt when you buy them and simply pinch the rail end). Building you own points basically means you can make any size you like, as per the real world, and save a fortune !
And again an outstanding tut! Camera's always on the right spot, clear explanations & pleasant sonorous voice! It's prob. the best of ur vidz so far...
1c more I'm on t edge of my seat waitin' 4 the next one. =)
Little drop of bitterness: After the new point (heading tow. the tunnel) where it is attached to the existing track it's little "bumpy" as u can see on the first drive by lookin' at the upper back of the waggons.
Might be because of the connection to the already curved track!? ^^
Extremely good job of ballasting!
H. L. Wyatt
Hello, I am fascinated by your superb weathering of rolling stock and scenery, I know that it would be a fiddly job in doing rails and points but rails even when new are rusty as are the chairs, the point check rails and wing rails are both not weathered, otherwise your layout is just great.
I have just nearly completed my n gauge railroad. and you have been very helpful. are you considering putting a video of your final layout.
Thanks for sharing this, Ive always dreaded ballasting points!
Rather than using a track rubber to clean the top of the track, try a piece of hardboard, matt side down, does not leave fine scratch marks that pick up dirt.
Very nice....liked the remnants of the Kay-dee couplings at 15:03
Thanks, I put a thin piece of cork under the track to give a slightly raised profile.
I usually paint the base plate grey, take some clear double sided sticky tape there, leaving a gap for the moving sleeper of course, put the turnout into position and sprinkle ballast on the tape. Faster, easier, safer. Fair to say though I have N gaube so the gaps between the sleepers are smaller and the ballast is finer. Might deliver not that satisfying results in 00.
Just done 1 point as a try out, yep bloody scary.Richard 🇳🇿
A very good and informative video very well done and videoed.
nice Howto tips. I will use this method when I do Mine. Thanks for shearing
I think you need to use a little bit more glue. Some parts will go a little bit green, but weathering will fix that.
Yes, cab lights can be turned off and on by the dcc controller.
love all your videos great work
That was great! The fast motion was very cool.
Requires a bit of patience and understanding how the switch works. Thanks for showing.
Might be an idea to trim the ends of the tie bar to remove the 'nodules' on the ends for better realism.
good video I am new to the hobby and I'm in the middle of buying all parts to build the hornby track mat
That's a very nice passenger train.
Excellent video - well done
I spotted some lineside fencing you have used, what brand is it? Great vid, very helpful!
Great vid, helps a lot of first timers, cheers.
Mine is about 20mm, but it does change in a few places.
A superb turorial as always, Liked and Faved 5*
I am surprised you didn't cut the ends off the throw rod and trim the two long sleepers back. Good video though. It is the scary bit for many.
Theres an option in sony vegas that allows you to speed up clips of film. I use that rather than time lapse.
Thank you. Best regards.
Another great video and good tips
I solder wiring to it, but I don't solder it together as the track needs room to expand and contract as the temperature changes.
I use Peco code 100 which has been fantastic. Code 75 is very good, if I was to build another layout I would use code 75.
The automatic captions are hilarious!! :)
thanks for the idea mr everard! certainly useful for my tmd layout!
An excellent video. like the "speeded up" bit on what would otherwise be a long drawn out process. did you find you had any problems with ballast falling in the hole where you store the stock under the board?
another epic video , youre channel has actually got some of the best vids on youtube :D
This video is a great help to me so thanks for making it, can you tell me what tools I need to start ballasting and when I can get them ?
Brilliant video, i will be using the tutorial, do you use just PVA glue? not glue and water?
Just pva glue when i'm using the brush. I water it down when using the dropper.
thanks for this video! my layout used to have nice ballasted areas then when there were points UGLY there was just these patches at points where is didnt ballast now i can thanks To you :)
Excellent Job.
All the tools you need can be seen in the video. Most hobby shops should have them.
@ 14:42 i hope they put an ESR on due to the wet beds on those switches ! lol, really helpful video.
Excellent!
great video !, btw nice to see the slewing went well !
I paint the roadbed in the same colour as the rest of the ballast, but I never ever ballast near the moving parts of the points, not a lot of people do.
I use woodland scenics medium blend.
good job mate.there are alot of people out there that are unsure how to do this but not any more.
the curve in the new point is certainly not as noticeable as the last and its amazing how much difference a change this small makes to a layout.
what are you doing with the gap in the base board in front of that point?
Great Video
I use woodland scenics medium grey ballast.
Another useful how to.. Thanks a lot..
Thanks so much. This will help me out a lot!
hey railroader! cool video and thx for showing HOW TO stuf fon youtube. how do you weather the rails without weathering the hole ballast? thx dude
Its woodland scenics medium grey. I get it from hobbycraft.
I use a screwdriver to remove all the pins before lifting the track.
Thanks. A great tutorial.
Nicely filmed!
Fantastic tutorials these. I watched your other ballasting video earlier and would like to ask, why the different technique? Because of the moving parts?
really usefull video EverardJunction really help me when i was doing my ballasting :)
Very good this video. Do you have a video with the painting of the lines? Thanks.
Well done.
Awsome, best ballasting vid ever, Thanks
Thanks Simon
How Far Should The Ballast Go out to from the outside rail to make it look realistic. And Also Nice Tutorials
those trains sound so realistic. (to scale)
Good job!
Great video! Thanks!
Can do if you don't want to ballast it.
The vacuum cleaner is not very powerful and the ballast is glued down. Only loose stuff that hasn't glued gets sucked up.
Yes, the moving parts mean you have to be more careful.
I use a panasonic HDC-SD60 for all my filming on the layout.
Really finding your techniques for everything interesting. i'm hoping to start my railway soon as my baseboard is on order, so within the next couple of weeks starts the fun. What do you use underneath the track as it looks slightly higher than the rest of the board?
Fair enough, but bear in mind that the track will be uneven when pinned on top of a ballasted surface.
Excellent tutorial as always.
STEVIE B (Stroley International).