I’m 68 years old and starting a new layout adventure in an apartment. I’ve built many layouts over the years (since 10 years old) and have acquired considerable experience. Watching your videos has helped me to realize that I still have much to learn and benefit from. Charlie, you have become my newest mentor, you are the man. I will do what I can to support your efforts as you further develop your current project. Thank you so very much. Tim
My childhood model railway constructed by my dad was made totally with flexible track so he could create the exact track plan desired. When building Ewood I bought some flexible track to try the same method ..sadly it didn't go well and I reverted to the standard pieces. Dad was a design engineer and a perfectionist..I'm not .RIP dad Ewood Railway was not at your standard but you'd have loved it. Thankyou for this video it's bought back memories.
When I get a large enough house to set up a layout, probably based on Merthyr Tredegar and Abergavenny Railway, but would require Coal Tanks, Super Ds (does anybody sell these) and Pannier Tanks; and Bristol LS and KSW buses, and if I ever manage to sweep Zoe off her feet, I hope she is understanding.
I enjoy your videos immensely. One recommendation regarding cutting wood boards: Cut on a sacrificial insulation foam board. You don't have any tear out or breakage like you will by using saw horses.
Useful video. In my experience, staggering the track joints is absolutely the best way to go. No kinks or doglegs, and because of the staggered joint, the sleepers are retained. Brilliant.
Well Mr Jones, if I were you I would buy a lottery ticket for having two Hattons 66s without any issues :) Have 5 now and all running well but not without having to do work on all of them.
Thanks Charlie.There is a third method; I hate to mention it as it is a bit of a bear. That being said: it does solve some problems. I have tried this only with code 100. The idea is to totally remove the rails and pre-curve them under the heads of three small flat-headed nails pushed into a bit of scrap timber. My timber is a shelf offcut from the bin at the local hardware. The nails are in a flattish triangle, the outer ones about 2" apart, the third being central but offset vertically about 1/4". Thread the rail through with the base captive under the nail heads, and pull. Experiment. It is the same principle as rollers, and has the same problems at the ends; simply form the ends by hand and gentle pliers. Then re-thread the rails. It works brilliantly, and if you lay the rail on a flat surface after bending, you will find it is flat. By that I mean it has bent on its vertical axis, rather than distorted following the easiest axis. Don't forget transition radii. This system has worked well in my waterlogged, natural scenery growing environment. Do you know if that 'underlay' powders over time, as does foam? Lastly, an unhelpful suggestion. Your back scenery has cows or sheep or something. Why not arrange them in a not too obvious BR configuration. Always encourage a smile. The idea is not original. Keep teaching us.
Many thanks, Peter, for such an interesting suggestion. However, I really can’t see me trying yourtrack laying method. I shall see if I can make a farm animal configuration.😉 Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes: on the track I thought it completing the record - I do try. And do rearrange the livestock: we have to make an effort not to be too serious. All the best to you Charlie.
A method I used in a similar situation, laying multiple parallel tracks around a corner with a filler like yours: I cut an extra piece of plywood to fill in the corner temporarily to set the center of the various radii. Swinging an arc equal to the radius of the proposed end of the incoming run, and intersecting that arc with the planned start of the continuing run, I established the center point. With a nail in the center point, I was then able to scribe the inside edge of each curve at the sleeper ends at the desired radii. (I used the inside sleeper ends as being the easiest to see from my position.) I held the track in position using 2" foam nails (with the TEE end), allowing me to pick up the track sufficient to place the glues, then slid the track right back down the nails, checking to see that the sleeper ends were in the proper position. After the glue dried, it was very easy to pull the nails. It was necessary to weigh down the track so the glue could properly take. Also, I glued the track in position from the largest radius inwards, just for convenience. I left the filler [piece of ;plywood in place until the area was done just to be able to crosscheck right before and after gluing.
Charlie, I’m just running through some of your earlier videos and I note that you have mentioned the main use of the Golden Valley guides … It is possible to place all three of the pips in a single track to create a custom ‘Traksetta’ for any radius.
Bought 4 Hattons 66's. 3 DCC and 1 Sound. 1 DCC model dead on arrival. Returned it to store, they "serviced" it and and sent it back. It ran for 20 minutes before stopping again. Sent it back to Hattons where they refunded me. Other three works brilliantly. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas
Hello Charlie. I thoroughly enjoyed your flexi track tutorials on PECO TV. Ive had a bit of an up and down relationship with model railroading. Ever since my first visit to a hobby shop back in South Africa where I grew up and saw my first Loco which was Rivorossi steam loco. The detail and the running captured back then. Now at 53 Ive collected sold off several locos and even a DCC system. for many reasons I never found myself having the space to have a layout that really wanted. That is now changing. My first love of model railroading was American freight and the locomotives but being quite a stickler for detail trying to make sure I got it right was becoming an issue, not being an American and never been to the States I found myself asking more questions and getting a little disheartened. Then I started seeing the Class 66 Freightliner locos here in the UK. Now that circumstances are changing for me it seems sticking with local is a far better idea. I would like to go current modern British freight with more focus on that over passenger rail. However a passenger train or two of course would be in the plan but a bit later. Ideally Id like more a mountain terrain for my layout than urban. Id appreciate your advice on where to start and go about getting into modern UK freight model railway. DCC is of course the way id go with NCE Power cab which i still have. Im looking at a 3.5m x 2.5m Garden office fully insulated.
Very timely video Charlie. Since I have over 50 feet of O-16-5 Peco track climbing and looping I have ordered the Piko screws as an added measure of track security. I have been using a small half inch Truss head screw for now. I had it in mind to just have extra ballast at the screw locations to hide those heads. The Piko screws will be a better fit for this layout and disappear. I am still tweaking my track, marking locations that need attention so I can go back later and spend time working on those spots. When I modeled in N scale I always laid my flex track curves first so that there would be no joiners/fish plates at the mid point of the curve. I then added the rest of the layout track after the curves were in place. The thing is that a meter of flex track doesn't cover as much scale distance in the larger scales as it does in N scale, thus making it more difficult to do. I did not see a link for those track gauges you are using to equally parallel your tracks. I think those would work well when layout a yard, especially if the yard curves. I will look into those.
Charlie, you said, "I watch a lot of videos ...". Well, I also watch other 'model railway' channels but yours is the only one that 'provokes' me into leaving comments! (That's a compliment!) 1. Piko Track Screws: Good Tip. Their advantages are well known among my fellow modellers here in CH, but previous mentions of them to my British friends have always resulted in them giving me that 'he's become a foreigner' look! (By the way, Piko's "A-Gleis" Sectional Track joins well to Peco/Hornby, offers an alternative geometry and points which accommodate older TriAng course wheel flanges.) 2. Good Tip about how to avoid 'dog'legs' on flex track curves, I now challenge you to do it with Insulated Joiners ...🙂 3. You've used 'Setrack' track spacing for your curves, as you did on the Helix, but, you laid out the entrance point work to the Fiddle Yard at 'Steamline' spacing. Please show in a future video how you are smoothly transitioning between the two. Merry Christmas!
Very impressive sweeping curves Charlie. Will never complain about just two double track loops again! Very useful tip to avoid doglegs on curves, much better than hiding them in tunnels!
That little track spacer guide is pretty darn nice. Seeing the way you staggered the joins is really good. I never thought of that and that will get rid of that dreaded space where flexi's join that has no sleepers. Thank you for such an in depth and educational video. I really do appreciate it.
13:00 I have to say I've extensively used those miniature screws (mine are Jouef branded) since... the early 70s (call that the (maybe one and only) silver lining of being 71 and counting) on my main H0 layout and never regretted it. Discreet, nifty, not damaging whatsoever the tracks and points - and ttackbed - and what's more important easily allowing repairs, amends, rectifications an even total replanning of the track layout.👍🤗
Very informative video Charlie , what I would have given to have this 40 years ago when my Dad and I were trying to build our garage layout. Always enjoy these so thanks.
As an old railroad track surveyor, I might comment that it appears that at about 21:00, where you are preparing to fix the curve between the two gauges, that the track has chorded or straightened out slightly. I would suggest the use of a third gauge right at the proposed fixing site, or at least mark it while the gauge is at that point before moving the gauge beyond. Also, are you providing any spiral transitions in and out of the curves. It appears that the third track is self-spiraling on (my) left end, which might give a better ride, especially on the tighter radii. Using set track, that would necessitate a flex track for the transitions, say 20-30 cm. When superelevating the curves, doing so in the length of the spiral gives a much more pleasant curve. ON prototype lines, spirals are laid out using all sorts of formuli and tables, but the eyeball would suffice as a good survey party for us.
Wowzers Charlie you have some track down there What a cracking little tool that golden Valley tool is. Excellent as usual clear and precise for us sausage fingers to learn from
From your recommendation, I managed to buy a pair of the gauges from Golden Valley Hobbies - and they have saved me so much time!! Also good for parallel tracks too. So thanks very much!
Another option, using AnyRail software, is that you can print out your detailed plan at full scale. This can be placed on the baseboards to lay the track. If you have a complicated track plan it is an excellent guide. I got help from Drew Fermor, who designed and helped me lay the track using this method. As it prints to full size, it makes the positioning of track, including points, very accurate. Yes, you do use lots of A4 paper but the printing is in black and white and not too costly on ink. The track laying is the most important part and this method allows for accurate long, gentle curves. Sorry if this has already been mentioned Charlie.
Great informative and instructional video as per your usual standard. Nicely demonstrated laying of track, I use the staggered fishplates on curves and straights, using a two playing cards to put expansion gap between tracks. The other thing I do, is to cut one chair at a joint, to allow the fishplates to slide over the sleeper. This strengthens the joint and leaves no gaps that need additional sleepers installing after. It should be noted, that care should be taken when pinning the centre of the track, not too fasten down too much, this will tend to distort the gauge of the rail. Look forward to your next video. All the best to you and yours for Christmas & New Year.. 🎅 x The Bigfella x
Hi Charlie, I wish I had known about those Piko screws when I was laying the track on my 8' x 4' main layout, still never mind my track is down but some will be coming up as I have decided to change it a bit. Your good lady is an absolute treasure, the main reason I've been sent out into the garden is due to my wife not being as amenable. Never mind. Keep up the good work Charlie as we can all learn from watching other people's videos, I know I am. Best wishes for the coming "Festive season" and I am sure all your followers will wish the same.
Think my Hattons 66 is a nice looking model and runs fine. However the downsides are the detailing is so delicate and removing the body is a task on its own without breaking the piping details. The rotating axle boxes drop out and I had 2 come off uopn opening the box.
Hi Charlie, I started following you before I even had my loft fully boarded, I really like your videos as I always learn a lot, and as my wife has commented, “you don’t have a boring voice”. I do have a DCC layout in my loft now and I thoroughly enjoy running the trains and changing the track (several times). I think it’s great that you leave your mistakes in, it proves your human.
Thanks for the great tip on the flexible track tool from Golden Valley Hobbies! This is just what I need and have ordered an N gauge version for when I start laying my own track. Cheers!
Another excellent video Charlie. I have the Rocket but did have issues to start with. One of the wire between loco and tender broke as the tender is not permanently fixed but I was able to re-solder it, luckily I work in electronics so I’m used to such fiddly jobs. To stop the tender from parting the locomotive I have use a small piece of wire sleeving on the pin to hold the drawbar in place. The second problem was it didn’t run. I could hear the motor working but it wasn’t engaging the wheels, a small bit of pressure on top with finger allowed movement. The was a bit of a downer moment as I thought it would have to go back and I knew getting it replaced was unlikely. I inspected it closely and found two black tabs under the boiler that looked a bit out of place and was able to prise them out which fully engaged the motor. It now works beautifully, linking the train together can be a bit of a bugger at first.
Hi Charlie, another fact finding video (wish I had seen these before I built my storage yard) with hard to reach hidden in tunnel sections I soldered the lengths of flex track together and used tracksetta with Peco pins. Because my layout is in the loft I found leaving a 2mm gap every 2.5 metres allows for any expansion/contractions and the sound of the rolling stock passing these gaps adds to the realistic value. To ensure Santa sent me the items I wished for, I ordered items and my wife wrapped and hide them up (don't tell the Grand children) Merry Christmas to you and your family and remember stay safe...
Thanks Charlie, I have only found your video's since last thursday's zoom meeting, I only recently started to use RUclips when I added a few of my own videos. I now have a lot to watch and have picked up some good tips from you already. Cheers John
I don't know if you are aware but peco also do a pin or nail similar to the Hornby one. I do use the pin or nail by peco thats like the Hornby one for my track. I mainly use peco code 100 Streamline track.
A big thank you sir for not just a good model RR education but for keeping me sane last spring. Weekly videos were a god send during lock down. Have a wonderful holiday.
Excellent video, for learning how to lay track accurately. Talking of videos, have you also see seen Susan's video at Milden Hall, which shows you how to create loads for wagons, and Susan uses a handy looking picture frame cutting tool, to enable foam board to fit snugly in to the open wagons?
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. when you said about Susan’s video, do you mean Susanna‘s video? She really is a gifted modeller who really deserves a better following. Regards Charlie
well done charlie, never considered overlapping flex track allways something to learn. keep doing what you do. regards sam woodward. ps having fun learning how to use any rail .
Looks great Charlie, I have used all three of the fixing hardware you demonstrated but settled for Peco and Piko. Regarding the joining of the rails I have found it challenging to say the least and have made far too many cuts in attempts to matchup the rails. It was suggested that I solder lengths of track together and I did that wherever possible in the limited space I have but that certainly helped. Those jigs you are using for the curves look really useful and would have saved me a lot of grief had I known about them and it would have allowed me to possibly get more track in and I might just reconsider what I have. I never thought of using those Hornby curved tracks but it might have made things easier. Once again, thanks for inspiring and sharing.best regards
Hi Charlie well you’ve done it again another great video you mentioned about the hornby awards ahead of your upcoming Christmas episode regarding hornby locos I have owned them since I was about 5 years old I think I am about your age I have sound in my hornby diesel and steam locos but when you said about other locomotives I have also got 4 Bachmann locos 2 class 57’s 1 class 150 all dcc but my latest addition is a bachmann class 158 the new tooling version in east midland trains livery with cab lights and interior lighting as standard I live about a couple of hundred metres from the east midland trains mainline so I had to have one bought the new kind of Bachmann zimo plux 22 chip and it is amazing I think it is the best train on Beighton Parkway next to my class 43 hst I think this 158 just edges in front I think it came on sale earlier this year I don’t know when they did the awards but I would have liked it to be in the top 10 running pardon the pun before I purchased it from Rails Of Sheffield I asked Richard from new junction what he thought and he agreed that it was stunning and said he was saving up for one anyway great watch about flexi track laying keep safe Best wishes Kev
Whoa, you have a first aid kit and fire extinguisher among your recommended equipment. Maybe I should reconsider this hobby .... Seriously though, another great video. I am getting back into the hobby after an extended hiatus, and am enjoying my relatively simple oval, so now I am of course planning an empire. Your videos are a great source of information, and I am furiously noting down every new tip and gadget. Thanks again. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and stay safe.
Nice one Charlie, I think taking your time helps to make thinks look good as well as being functional, and of course my mantra is 'if it looks right it is right' and that trackwork looks right for sure. regards Gareth
Not sure how I came across your channel Charlie, but I am glad I did. I have only watched two of the videos so far, but they are very informative and you have a good presentation style. You can count me as a subscriber now.
Charlie, I have to thank you for this great video. I saved it all year knowing that it would come in handy when it came time to setup my layout for Christmas and I can tell you that it took me half as long this time to lay twice the amount of track! Fantastic job here. I did use the Piko track screws, which for me were a godsend as well. Thank you!
hi charlie what a great vlog very interesting andgood advice and tips the technolagy has come a long way in the years since i had my early model thank you your advice has been so good and it has made me even more keen to build a model again once again i thank you for your advice and expertiance in the great work / love of model railways
Fascinating as always Charlie, I bought a tracksetta 42” radius piece after seeing you use them on your layout. Fantastic simple piece of kit that has made a previously horrible bend on my layout a much smoother and accurate curve. I’m modelling New Zealand Railways in S scale (1:64) and the largest wagon is 39cm. It didn’t like the previous rough attempt at going around a hand/eye judged curve, however now it goes through no trouble. Cheers!
Hi Charlie great video your fiddle yard will be amazing when its finished. You mentioned the Hornby princess. I have two of them and they both perform fantastically well had them for 6 months or so. Great model. Can't wait for your next video
Interesting as ever Charlie. I would certainly recommend using the "staggered" rail joints for curved track in fiddle yards, as it reduces the strain and distortion at the actual joints. They use this arrangement on the prototype on North American railroads. However, for curved track in scenic areas, I'd still have the two rail joints opposite each other, as this looks more prototypical for British track.
Thanks again Charlie for another interesting video. I never thought of threading the track a couple of inches into the next piece of track, which is an excellent tip. I have managed to dig the track into my finger when trying to move it along providing me with bloody track. Now I use pliers or Spencer Wells artery forceps to move the track along to prevent injury. The track does look good.
Another useful how to, you mentioned how much track you used, it never ceases to amaze me how much track we all use. My current layout is in a 9ft x 10ft room at the moment it has two continuous running lines, a six road fiddle yard and a small goods yard and engine shed and I have used about 60 yards of track. It will hopefully next year be moving into my converted hayloft which is 10m x 5m so goodness knows how much track I'll need for that. On the subject of locos I am hoping in the new year to purchase a Dapol Western with sound so I'll let you know how I get on. Merry Christmas and all the best for the new year let's hope it's better then 2020.
Yes Phil, it’s as if there is a track eating pixie on my layout. Good luck with the western, I have two with sound and they are just brilliant. Regards Charlie
The amount of track soon mounts up! When you showed the still of the underlay I briefly thought bl*%*y hell, then realised you'd taken the picture in the shop! Phew!!! ;-) A pretty comprehensive video on keeping your curves parallel and unkinked. I can't comment on the top three locos of the year as, being a DC chap, I don't really have an interest in new releases and, being frugal and from north of the border (nuff said) the money they want for them is more than my self-imposed budget!
Enjoy the videos. A lot of good tips picked up, as my son and I have been building our first layout. You were kind enough to give me a few pointers through Facebook a few months back, so thanks for that. We have an old Lima 125 set, which still runs well, and I see a fan of 125s. Which is the best of those you've seen or own? Looking forward to seeing the completed helix and yards running. Best Chris
Hi Chris, it’s great to have you on board. I must confess that the latest Hornby 125 is a stunning locomotive in various colour schemes. I hope that helps, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Very useful video. I have now purchased some track screws for my layout. I was looking with interest at the track setting guides from Golden Valley Hobbies when I remembered I had already purchased a Proses N Scale Adjustable Parallel Track Tool (Pk2). I've not tried them yet.
it would also be helpful to show others how you can use the flex track holder tools to get a really smooth custom radius curve that is not available in the tracksetta range
Hi Charlie, That was a very interesting way of laying flexi-track and creating curves. As with most jobs there is often other ways to get the same result you achieved. I will try to tell you how I created curves using flexi-track. Nine times out of ten the curve will commence following a straight section of track. Attach the track which you wish to curve into the end of the straight section and using the tools you have gently tease the track to create the desired radius. As you rightly pointed out the rail on the outside will end up longer than the inside rail. Well I simply mark the outside rail so it is in line with the inside track and with my trusty track cutters I then snip off the "over run" of the top rail and file off any rough bits, job done. If you have any more curves to make then maybe my way might be of some help. Cheers Greg
Hi Charlie, I look forward to your videos as they are always interesting and informative. I've seen many different ways of joining flexible track on curves, staggering the joint looks like it gives excellent results and aids removing the "dog leg" from the joint. I usually remove about 6 inches (150mm) of sleepers and then bend the exposed track to the desired radius to remove the natural spring of the nickel silver track. I usually cut the last half inch (13mm) off as it's difficult to form the curve right to the end of the track. Next time I lay flexible track with a joint on the curve I will also stagger the joint. Regards, David.
As I intend to use as much of the flexible track I have those gauges and track setters are just what I need. Thank you charlie for this video. Q. I am going to have a raised section of track around the Perimeter of my main two boards and the added extension boards. How short can I make the risers (3%) to come level with a Hornby viaduct and make sure my older collection of mainly Triang and Triang Hornby steam and diesel locos can still climb them? Some of the steamers do have Magderhesion. Martin. (Thailand)
Sorry Martin but that’s up to you to do some trials. I think the best thing to do is to set up a 3% climb and see if your locos can make it. Steam locos are really the problem area, not the diesels. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for some great track laying tips. I’ve certainly learnt something today ,hopefully it will help me lay my N gauge track better...or not as the case may be.
Laying flexi track I think has to be my least favorite task on my model railway, it just makes me want to fall asleep, so I give you credit for making a video about my least favorite task and managing to keep me nodding off, unfortunately the Dog however... he's out cold, we can't win them all. 👍 😅
First off a "thank you" and stay safe. You've made me a regular visitor through your careful planning and stable camera work. Here's the question: Why Copydex? It seems expensive, at least on my side of the Atlantic. If you share it's attractive characteristics , perhaps I can find something cheaper, here.
Hi, The only similar product I can find stateside is woodland scenics track bed glue. It also seems to be a rubber-based glue compound. Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie, The Hornby Rocket is absolutely fantastic. For such a small, light weight locomotive it purrs along and more then capable pulling 6 carriages. Perhaps next week you could share your favourite part of the layout so far? Love your videos by the way. I’ve been busy putting lots of your tips and how to’s into practise. Wishing you and your family a very Merry Christmas.
Hi Charlie, good video all my track is PECO flexi i have 2 cross overs, [new] the points are old HORNBY with top mounted motors [12] i bought them 35 years ago second hand and they still work well, stay safe Happy Christmas to you and yours all the best TONY [GRIFFIN STATION].
Once again Charlie another great video to watch whilst having to adjust my layout again very good advice. I just wish i had started with peco track and not hornby when i started and i had known that the loco's i was buying would struggle with small radius curves hence me having to relay track. I would love to see train automation using jmri as i don;t think i can afford the bigger systems. I'm also very lucky to have a swmbo who let me have the whole loft for my layout which she sometimes helps with the scenics.
Thank you Charlie for the plug, I've certainly had more veiws and a few more subscribers. Glad to see the track put to good use. I have the hornby rocket and have to say it's amazing, not only in detail but its size. Something that small shouldn't work. I will put up a video of it soon. I'm ballasting at the moment. Your layout is looking great, enjoying the vids regard Jim
Interesting way to use the spacer tools; the demo for the Prosers version has all three green bits in the same track, so you can keep a constant radius. Hence an alternative to the tracksetta, but with one tool for all of the different radius curves. I like your use, which is ideal for your staging yard configuration, but you may wish to use them in the Prosers fashion for curves (including progressive starts) later. Happy Christmas to you. And already missing the show in two weeks!
Excellent video, I’ve given thought to the subject of joining track on the curve and like you soldered the fishplates. Regarding rail expansion to me cut the track in the centre of a run and as you say stagger the joint. Droppers either side of the cut gives continuity. I’m in the process of creating blocks in existing track work and have found some disc cutters on evil bay for the Dremel with a thickness of only 0.6mm. Should do the job ok I reckon.
A Great Deal of People Are Building their Layout one way or Another and I wish All Model Railroaders Good Luck👍👍👍👍.
Thanks EP, it’s a fascinating hobby. However, can prove to be rather expensive! Regards, Charlie
But it’s Worth it.
I’m 68 years old and starting a new layout adventure in an apartment. I’ve built many layouts over the years (since 10 years old) and have acquired considerable experience. Watching your videos has helped me to realize that I still have much to learn and benefit from. Charlie, you have become my newest mentor, you are the man. I will do what I can to support your efforts as you further develop your current project. Thank you so very much. Tim
Thanks Tim, for such a heartwarming comment. Good luck with your project, regards, Charlie
My childhood model railway constructed by my dad was made totally with flexible track so he could create the exact track plan desired. When building Ewood I bought some flexible track to try the same method ..sadly it didn't go well and I reverted to the standard pieces. Dad was a design engineer and a perfectionist..I'm not .RIP dad Ewood Railway was not at your standard but you'd have loved it.
Thankyou for this video it's bought back memories.
What a heart warming comment. Although I'm sure you'd crack it in time.
Stay safe. Regards Charlie
I agree with Robin Holland, I too would like to meet the lady who gave you such a long leash around the house.😁
I'm sorry but Margaret is camera shy!
😆😆😆😆😆😆 👍
When I get a large enough house to set up a layout, probably based on Merthyr Tredegar and Abergavenny Railway, but would require Coal Tanks, Super Ds (does anybody sell these) and Pannier Tanks; and Bristol LS and KSW buses, and if I ever manage to sweep Zoe off her feet, I hope she is understanding.
You do an incredible job of explaining problems and solutions to using flexible track. I need to watch more of your videos!
ThanksJon, I’m so pleased that you find the channel useful. Regards, Charlie.
DOING RAILPLANNING INTO A REAL
ART - PRACTICALITY AND FUNCTIONALTY IN ONE SWIFT WORK!
WELL DONE!
Thank you Carl, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
I enjoy your videos immensely. One recommendation regarding cutting wood boards: Cut on a sacrificial insulation foam board. You don't have any tear out or breakage like you will by using saw horses.
Thanks, Dutchman, all advice is much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Im not even a train enthusiast and I found this so interesting. I want to see those trains running round this set-up. GREAT WORK!
Thank you very much Al, I’m so happy that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
I have no idea why this was in my recommended videos while watching a guy repair 8-bit computers but I fully watched it anyway. Oddly relaxing.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Terkzorr. Regards Charlie
Useful video.
In my experience, staggering the track joints is absolutely the best way to go. No kinks or doglegs, and because of the staggered joint, the sleepers are retained.
Brilliant.
Thanks Andrew, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Thanks, Charlie. I don’t know why I didn’t think of staggering rail joins before.
It wasn’t my discovery either.
Bought 2 hattons class 66's, No issues with them, Beautiful models and run like a dream :)
Is that the latest version of the class 66, or the earlier one?
Well Mr Jones, if I were you I would buy a lottery ticket for having two Hattons 66s without any issues :) Have 5 now and all running well but not without having to do work on all of them.
@@ChadwickModelRailway latest, bought first day the sale started, 0 issues with them
Thanks Charlie.There is a third method; I hate to mention it as it is a bit of a bear. That being said: it does solve some problems. I have tried this only with code 100. The idea is to totally remove the rails and pre-curve them under the heads of three small flat-headed nails pushed into a bit of scrap timber. My timber is a shelf offcut from the bin at the local hardware. The nails are in a flattish triangle, the outer ones about 2" apart, the third being central but offset vertically about 1/4". Thread the rail through with the base captive under the nail heads, and pull. Experiment. It is the same principle as rollers, and has the same problems at the ends; simply form the ends by hand and gentle pliers. Then re-thread the rails. It works brilliantly, and if you lay the rail on a flat surface after bending, you will find it is flat. By that I mean it has bent on its vertical axis, rather than distorted following the easiest axis. Don't forget transition radii. This system has worked well in my waterlogged, natural scenery growing environment.
Do you know if that 'underlay' powders over time, as does foam?
Lastly, an unhelpful suggestion. Your back scenery has cows or sheep or something. Why not arrange them in a not too obvious BR configuration. Always encourage a smile. The idea is not original.
Keep teaching us.
Many thanks, Peter, for such an interesting suggestion. However, I really can’t see me trying yourtrack laying method. I shall see if I can make a farm animal configuration.😉
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes: on the track I thought it completing the record - I do try. And do rearrange the livestock: we have to make an effort not to be too serious.
All the best to you Charlie.
Hi Charlie, this video is driving a lot of traffic to my most popular video! I don't know why, but it's helping me a lot. Thanks! 😊😊👍
It’s great that we can help each other.
A method I used in a similar situation, laying multiple parallel tracks around a corner with a filler like yours: I cut an extra piece of plywood to fill in the corner temporarily to set the center of the various radii. Swinging an arc equal to the radius of the proposed end of the incoming run, and intersecting that arc with the planned start of the continuing run, I established the center point. With a nail in the center point, I was then able to scribe the inside edge of each curve at the sleeper ends at the desired radii. (I used the inside sleeper ends as being the easiest to see from my position.)
I held the track in position using 2" foam nails (with the TEE end), allowing me to pick up the track sufficient to place the glues, then slid the track right back down the nails, checking to see that the sleeper ends were in the proper position. After the glue dried, it was very easy to pull the nails. It was necessary to weigh down the track so the glue could properly take. Also, I glued the track in position from the largest radius inwards, just for convenience. I left the filler [piece of ;plywood in place until the area was done just to be able to crosscheck right before and after gluing.
Great methodology Jack. Certainly to be considered for future building. Regards, Charlie
Charlie, I’m just running through some of your earlier videos and I note that you have mentioned the main use of the Golden Valley guides … It is possible to place all three of the pips in a single track to create a custom ‘Traksetta’ for any radius.
Yes Rob, I have done this on several occasions. Regards Charlie
Bought 4 Hattons 66's. 3 DCC and 1 Sound. 1 DCC model dead on arrival. Returned it to store, they "serviced" it and and sent it back. It ran for 20 minutes before stopping again. Sent it back to Hattons where they refunded me. Other three works brilliantly. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas
Thanks DP, that’s just the type of comment that I’m after.
Hello Charlie. I thoroughly enjoyed your flexi track tutorials on PECO TV. Ive had a bit of an up and down relationship with model railroading. Ever since my first visit to a hobby shop back in South Africa where I grew up and saw my first Loco which was Rivorossi steam loco. The detail and the running captured back then. Now at 53 Ive collected sold off several locos and even a DCC system. for many reasons I never found myself having the space to have a layout that really wanted. That is now changing. My first love of model railroading was American freight and the locomotives but being quite a stickler for detail trying to make sure I got it right was becoming an issue, not being an American and never been to the States I found myself asking more questions and getting a little disheartened. Then I started seeing the Class 66 Freightliner locos here in the UK. Now that circumstances are changing for me it seems sticking with local is a far better idea. I would like to go current modern British freight with more focus on that over passenger rail. However a passenger train or two of course would be in the plan but a bit later. Ideally Id like more a mountain terrain for my layout than urban. Id appreciate your advice on where to start and go about getting into modern UK freight model railway. DCC is of course the way id go with NCE Power cab which i still have. Im looking at a 3.5m x 2.5m Garden office fully insulated.
Hi Mike,
Let’s take this off line.
Please email me at
chadwickmodelrailway@gmail. com
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you Charlie. Email sent.
Very timely video Charlie. Since I have over 50 feet of O-16-5 Peco track climbing and looping I have ordered the Piko screws as an added measure of track security. I have been using a small half inch Truss head screw for now. I had it in mind to just have extra ballast at the screw locations to hide those heads. The Piko screws will be a better fit for this layout and disappear. I am still tweaking my track, marking locations that need attention so I can go back later and spend time working on those spots.
When I modeled in N scale I always laid my flex track curves first so that there would be no joiners/fish plates at the mid point of the curve. I then added the rest of the layout track after the curves were in place. The thing is that a meter of flex track doesn't cover as much scale distance in the larger scales as it does in N scale, thus making it more difficult to do.
I did not see a link for those track gauges you are using to equally parallel your tracks. I think those would work well when layout a yard, especially if the yard curves. I will look into those.
An excellent comment and the track guides are available from DCC Train Automation.
Charlie, you said, "I watch a lot of videos ...". Well, I also watch other 'model railway' channels but yours is the only one that 'provokes' me into leaving comments! (That's a compliment!)
1. Piko Track Screws: Good Tip.
Their advantages are well known among my fellow modellers here in CH, but previous mentions of them to my British friends have always resulted in them giving me that 'he's become a foreigner' look! (By the way, Piko's "A-Gleis" Sectional Track joins well to Peco/Hornby, offers an alternative geometry and points which accommodate older TriAng course wheel flanges.)
2. Good Tip about how to avoid 'dog'legs' on flex track curves, I now challenge you to do it with Insulated Joiners ...🙂
3. You've used 'Setrack' track spacing for your curves, as you did on the Helix, but, you laid out the entrance point work to the Fiddle Yard at 'Steamline' spacing.
Please show in a future video how you are smoothly transitioning between the two.
Merry Christmas!
Hi Brian, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel. I will show the fiddle yard as the tracks expand to Set Track distances. Regards Charlie
Very impressive sweeping curves Charlie. Will never complain about just two double track loops again! Very useful tip to avoid doglegs on curves, much better than hiding them in tunnels!
Thanks John, you're to kind.
That little track spacer guide is pretty darn nice. Seeing the way you staggered the joins is really good. I never thought of that and that will get rid of that dreaded space where flexi's join that has no sleepers.
Thank you for such an in depth and educational video. I really do appreciate it.
What a heartwarming comment Brendan, regards Charlie
13:00 I have to say I've extensively used those miniature screws (mine are Jouef branded) since... the early 70s (call that the (maybe one and only) silver lining of being 71 and counting) on my main H0 layout and never regretted it. Discreet, nifty, not damaging whatsoever the tracks and points - and ttackbed - and what's more important easily allowing repairs, amends, rectifications an even total replanning of the track layout.👍🤗
Yes Jane you’re dead right.They make it so much easier to carry out modifications.
Very informative video Charlie , what I would have given to have this 40 years ago when my Dad and I were trying to build our garage layout. Always enjoy these so thanks.
That’s very kind of you to say so Jack. Those happier times and their memories are so precious. Regards Charlie
As an old railroad track surveyor, I might comment that it appears that at about 21:00, where you are preparing to fix the curve between the two gauges, that the track has chorded or straightened out slightly. I would suggest the use of a third gauge right at the proposed fixing site, or at least mark it while the gauge is at that point before moving the gauge beyond.
Also, are you providing any spiral transitions in and out of the curves. It appears that the third track is self-spiraling on (my) left end, which might give a better ride, especially on the tighter radii. Using set track, that would necessitate a flex track for the transitions, say 20-30 cm. When superelevating the curves, doing so in the length of the spiral gives a much more pleasant curve. ON prototype lines, spirals are laid out using all sorts of formuli and tables, but the eyeball would suffice as a good survey party for us.
Excellent comment, Jack, and well worth considering on future builds. Regards, Charlie
These videos are really good. Some great ideas for building a model railway and avoiding mistakes.
Glad you like them Richard.
Wowzers Charlie you have some track down there
What a cracking little tool that golden Valley tool is.
Excellent as usual clear and precise for us sausage fingers to learn from
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting David, regards Charlie
Coming along nicely. Still plenty to keep you out of harm’s way for the Winter! Have a great Christmas and stay safe. Roy.
Thanks Roy, have a great Christmas and stay safe mate. Regards Charlie
I buy M1.4 x 10mm screws from a well known auction site for £5 per 1000 screws which is a lot cheaper than buying the Piko branded ones
Thanks Ian, I shall check it out.
Great video as usual. Given me confidence to have a go with flexible track as I'm fitting a turntable with limited space.
You can do it Chris, it's easier than you think.
From your recommendation, I managed to buy a pair of the gauges from Golden Valley Hobbies - and they have saved me so much time!! Also good for parallel tracks too. So thanks very much!
Glad you like them Ian, they will last forever.
A
Another option, using AnyRail software, is that you can print out your detailed plan at full scale. This can be placed on the baseboards to lay the track. If you have a complicated track plan it is an excellent guide. I got help from Drew Fermor, who designed and helped me lay the track using this method. As it prints to full size, it makes the positioning of track, including points, very accurate. Yes, you do use lots of A4 paper but the printing is in black and white and not too costly on ink. The track laying is the most important part and this method allows for accurate long, gentle curves. Sorry if this has already been mentioned Charlie.
Not at all FHR. It's a useful tip. Regards Charlie
Great informative and instructional video as per your usual standard.
Nicely demonstrated laying of track, I use the staggered fishplates on curves and straights, using a two playing cards to put expansion gap between tracks.
The other thing I do, is to cut one chair at a joint, to allow the fishplates to slide over the sleeper.
This strengthens the joint and leaves no gaps that need additional sleepers installing after.
It should be noted, that care should be taken when pinning the centre of the track, not too fasten down too much, this will tend to distort the gauge of the rail.
Look forward to your next video.
All the best to you and yours for Christmas & New Year.. 🎅
x The Bigfella x
A very useful comment big fella. Have a great Christmas and best wishes for 2021, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I wish I had known about those Piko screws when I was laying the track on my 8' x 4' main layout, still never mind my track is down but some will be coming up as I have decided to change it a bit.
Your good lady is an absolute treasure, the main reason I've been sent out into the garden is due to my wife not being as amenable. Never mind.
Keep up the good work Charlie as we can all learn from watching other people's videos, I know I am.
Best wishes for the coming "Festive season" and I am sure all your followers will wish the same.
What a heartwarming comment Peter.
Do stay safe and have a great Christmas.
Regards Charlie.
Great update Charlie.
Thanks Jim, regards Charlie
Think my Hattons 66 is a nice looking model and runs fine. However the downsides are the detailing is so delicate and removing the body is a task on its own without breaking the piping details. The rotating axle boxes drop out and I had 2 come off uopn opening the box.
Thanks James, that’s exactly the detail that I’m looking for.
Hi Charlie, I started following you before I even had my loft fully boarded, I really like your videos as I always learn a lot, and as my wife has commented, “you don’t have a boring voice”. I do have a DCC layout in my loft now and I thoroughly enjoy running the trains and changing the track (several times). I think it’s great that you leave your mistakes in, it proves your human.
What a heartwarming comment Barry. Regards Charlie.
Thanks for the great tip on the flexible track tool from Golden Valley Hobbies! This is just what I need and have ordered an N gauge version for when I start laying my own track. Cheers!
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful.
Another excellent video Charlie.
I have the Rocket but did have issues to start with. One of the wire between loco and tender broke as the tender is not permanently fixed but I was able to re-solder it, luckily I work in electronics so I’m used to such fiddly jobs. To stop the tender from parting the locomotive I have use a small piece of wire sleeving on the pin to hold the drawbar in place. The second problem was it didn’t run. I could hear the motor working but it wasn’t engaging the wheels, a small bit of pressure on top with finger allowed movement. The was a bit of a downer moment as I thought it would have to go back and I knew getting it replaced was unlikely. I inspected it closely and found two black tabs under the boiler that looked a bit out of place and was able to prise them out which fully engaged the motor. It now works beautifully, linking the train together can be a bit of a bugger at first.
A great comment Rob. Two cables came off mine! So demoralised.
Thank you Charlie!
You’re most welcome John. Regards Charlie
Fantastic video!!!!! Thank you.
You’re most welcome, mate Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, another fact finding video (wish I had seen these before I built my storage yard) with hard to reach hidden in tunnel sections I soldered the lengths of flex track together and used tracksetta with Peco pins. Because my layout is in the loft I found leaving a 2mm gap every 2.5 metres allows for any expansion/contractions and the sound of the rolling stock passing these gaps adds to the realistic value.
To ensure Santa sent me the items I wished for, I ordered items and my wife wrapped and hide them up (don't tell the Grand children) Merry Christmas to you and your family and remember stay safe...
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Barry. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, I have only found your video's since last thursday's zoom meeting, I only recently started to use RUclips when I added a few of my own videos. I now have a lot to watch and have picked up some good tips from you already. Cheers John
It’s great to have you onboard John.
What’s the name of your channel?
Regards Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway It is just called John Dedman, Started in 2018, did not realise it was that long ago.
Regards John
Great stuff John. Subscribed.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie
I don't know if you are aware but peco also do a pin or nail similar to the Hornby one. I do use the pin or nail by peco thats like the Hornby one for my track. I mainly use peco code 100 Streamline track.
I did cover it in the video Matthew.
A big thank you sir for not just a good model RR education but for keeping me sane last spring. Weekly videos were a god send during lock down. Have a wonderful holiday.
What a heart warming comment HD. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Excellent video, for learning how to lay track accurately. Talking of videos, have you also see seen Susan's video at Milden Hall, which shows you how to create loads for wagons, and Susan uses a handy looking picture frame cutting tool, to enable foam board to fit snugly in to the open wagons?
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. when you said about Susan’s video, do you mean Susanna‘s video? She really is a gifted modeller who really deserves a better following. Regards Charlie
Yet again another great video, the tip for avoiding dig legs was very interesting, thank you again Charlie
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Thomas. Regards Charlie
Please forgive the Crabtree comment I meant dog leg
well done charlie, never considered overlapping flex track allways something to learn. keep doing what you do. regards sam woodward. ps having fun learning how to use any rail .
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Sam. Stay safe and have a great Christmas, regards Charlie
merry christmas to you and your family charlie looking forward to future vidios regards sam
Looks great Charlie, I have used all three of the fixing hardware you demonstrated but settled for Peco and Piko. Regarding the joining of the rails I have found it challenging to say the least and have made far too many cuts in attempts to matchup the rails.
It was suggested that I solder lengths of track together and I did that wherever possible in the limited space I have but that certainly helped.
Those jigs you are using for the curves look really useful and would have saved me a lot of grief had I known about them and it would have allowed me to possibly get more track in and I might just reconsider what I have.
I never thought of using those Hornby curved tracks but it might have made things easier.
Once again, thanks for inspiring and sharing.best regards
Charlie, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie well you’ve done it again another great video you mentioned about the hornby awards ahead of your upcoming Christmas episode regarding hornby locos I have owned them since I was about 5 years old I think I am about your age I have sound in my hornby diesel and steam locos but when you said about other locomotives I have also got 4 Bachmann locos 2 class 57’s 1 class 150 all dcc but my latest addition is a bachmann class 158 the new tooling version in east midland trains livery with cab lights and interior lighting as standard I live about a couple of hundred metres from the east midland trains mainline so I had to have one bought the new kind of Bachmann zimo plux 22 chip and it is amazing I think it is the best train on Beighton Parkway next to my class 43 hst I think this 158 just edges in front I think it came on sale earlier this year I don’t know when they did the awards but I would have liked it to be in the top 10 running pardon the pun before I purchased it from Rails Of Sheffield I asked Richard from new junction what he thought and he agreed that it was stunning and said he was saving up for one anyway great watch about flexi track laying keep safe
Best wishes
Kev
What a heart warming comment Kevin. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Found it all now thanks
Great.
Both Hattons 66’s with sound have performed beautifully, next job is to order the track spacers Thanks for another brilliant video.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it David.
Whoa, you have a first aid kit and fire extinguisher among your recommended equipment. Maybe I should reconsider this hobby ....
Seriously though, another great video. I am getting back into the hobby after an extended hiatus, and am enjoying my relatively simple oval, so now I am of course planning an empire. Your videos are a great source of information, and I am furiously noting down every new tip and gadget. Thanks again. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and stay safe.
That’s very kind of you to say so Ray.
Thanks for a good video. Wish I had seen these Tracksetta templates before I built my layout! But so, so expensive.........
But they do so help you to produce better track laying Paul.
Very informative as usual. Excellent
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Gordon. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
learning a lot , thankyou !! merry christmas
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ron.
Charlie, once again your video's are extremely informative and helpful. Thanks again for all you do, love me some Chadwick Model Railway!
Thanks Jeff, I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting. Regards Charlie
Nice one Charlie, I think taking your time helps to make thinks look good as well as being functional, and of course my mantra is 'if it looks right it is right' and that trackwork looks right for sure. regards Gareth
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Gareth.
Not sure how I came across your channel Charlie, but I am glad I did. I have only watched two of the videos so far, but they are very informative and you have a good presentation style. You can count me as a subscriber now.
Welcome aboard David. Regards Charlie
Nice video Charlie! Nice tool very nice to have, layout looking good!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it manny fernandez. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Charlie, I have to thank you for this great video. I saved it all year knowing that it would come in handy when it came time to setup my layout for Christmas and I can tell you that it took me half as long this time to lay twice the amount of track! Fantastic job here. I did use the Piko track screws, which for me were a godsend as well.
Thank you!
I’m so pleased that the video was useful John. Good luck, regards Charlie
hi charlie what a great vlog very interesting andgood advice and tips the technolagy has come a long way in the years since i had my early model thank you your advice has been so good and it has made me even more keen to build a model again once again i thank you for your advice and expertiance in the great work / love of model railways
Thanks RM1000, for such a heartwarming comment. Regards i
Fascinating as always Charlie, I bought a tracksetta 42” radius piece after seeing you use them on your layout. Fantastic simple piece of kit that has made a previously horrible bend on my layout a much smoother and accurate curve. I’m modelling New Zealand Railways in S scale (1:64) and the largest wagon is 39cm. It didn’t like the previous rough attempt at going around a hand/eye judged curve, however now it goes through no trouble. Cheers!
That’s great news Scott, I’m so pleased that you have found my advice is useful. Regards Charlie
Charlie Bishop changing his mind?? Never lol. Great stuff as always mate. Hope you are keeping well
What a heart warming comment mate.
Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie great video your fiddle yard will be amazing when its finished. You mentioned the Hornby princess. I have two of them and they both perform fantastically well had them for 6 months or so. Great model. Can't wait for your next video
Hi Matt, thanks for the info regarding the princess, that’s just the info that I’m after. Regards Charlie
Thank you for tips.
Very helpful
Thanks Gary, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
Interesting as ever Charlie.
I would certainly recommend using the "staggered" rail joints for curved track in fiddle yards, as it reduces the strain and distortion at the actual joints. They use this arrangement on the prototype on North American railroads. However, for curved track in scenic areas, I'd still have the two rail joints opposite each other, as this looks more prototypical for British track.
Thanks Peter, that’s an interesting fact. Regards Charlie
Thanks again Charlie for another interesting video. I never thought of threading the track a couple of inches into the next piece of track, which is an excellent tip. I have managed to dig the track into my finger when trying to move it along providing me with bloody track. Now I use pliers or Spencer Wells artery forceps to move the track along to prevent injury. The track does look good.
Don, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Brilliant video Charlie. A very Merry Christmas to you and looking forward to the next installment at Chadwick.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Ian. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Another useful how to, you mentioned how much track you used, it never ceases to amaze me how much track we all use. My current layout is in a 9ft x 10ft room at the moment it has two continuous running lines, a six road fiddle yard and a small goods yard and engine shed and I have used about 60 yards of track. It will hopefully next year be moving into my converted hayloft which is 10m x 5m so goodness knows how much track I'll need for that. On the subject of locos I am hoping in the new year to purchase a Dapol Western with sound so I'll let you know how I get on. Merry Christmas and all the best for the new year let's hope it's better then 2020.
Yes Phil, it’s as if there is a track eating pixie on my layout. Good luck with the western, I have two with sound and they are just brilliant. Regards Charlie
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
Thanks BVR, and the same to you and yours. Regards Charlie
The amount of track soon mounts up! When you showed the still of the underlay I briefly thought bl*%*y hell, then realised you'd taken the picture in the shop! Phew!!! ;-) A pretty comprehensive video on keeping your curves parallel and unkinked.
I can't comment on the top three locos of the year as, being a DC chap, I don't really have an interest in new releases and, being frugal and from north of the border (nuff said) the money they want for them is more than my self-imposed budget!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Davie. Have a great Christmas, regards Charlie
Enjoy the videos. A lot of good tips picked up, as my son and I have been building our first layout. You were kind enough to give me a few pointers through Facebook a few months back, so thanks for that. We have an old Lima 125 set, which still runs well, and I see a fan of 125s. Which is the best of those you've seen or own? Looking forward to seeing the completed helix and yards running. Best Chris
Hi Chris, it’s great to have you on board. I must confess that the latest Hornby 125 is a stunning locomotive in various colour schemes. I hope that helps, regards Charlie
Golden Valley has the tool back in stock as of today (Jan 30). Just bought mine. Thanks again for the tips, Charlie!
You’re most welcome Chris.
Excellent video Charlie with some great tips, thank you.
You’re most welcome Philip. Regards Charlie
I have two Hornsby class 66s and TTS fitted they run great.
Great news MB.
Hi Charlie. Very useful video. I have now purchased some track screws for my layout. I was looking with interest at the track setting guides from Golden Valley Hobbies when I remembered I had already purchased a Proses N Scale Adjustable Parallel Track Tool (Pk2). I've not tried them yet.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Paul.
Another great informative video Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Simon. Regards Charlie
Nine beautifully parallel curved lines is a great accomplishment!
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
it would also be helpful to show others how you can use the flex track holder tools to get a really smooth custom radius curve that is not available in the tracksetta range
Hi Charlie, That was a very interesting way of laying flexi-track and creating curves. As with most jobs there is often other ways to get the same result you achieved. I will try to tell you how I created curves using flexi-track. Nine times out of ten the curve will commence following a straight section of track. Attach the track which you wish to curve into the end of the straight section and using the tools you have gently tease the track to create the desired radius. As you rightly pointed out the rail on the outside will end up longer than the inside rail. Well I simply mark the outside rail so it is in line with the inside track and with my trusty track cutters I then snip off the "over run" of the top rail and file off any rough bits, job done. If you have any more curves to make then maybe my way might be of some help. Cheers Greg
It’s great to share our techniques Greg.
Regards Charlie.
Great video. Alot of use full tips thanks. Merry Christmas to you and all.
Thanks Peter, you’re too kind.
Hi Charlie, I look forward to your videos as they are always interesting and informative. I've seen many different ways of joining flexible track on curves, staggering the joint looks like it gives excellent results and aids removing the "dog leg" from the joint. I usually remove about 6 inches (150mm) of sleepers and then bend the exposed track to the desired radius to remove the natural spring of the nickel silver track. I usually cut the last half inch (13mm) off as it's difficult to form the curve right to the end of the track. Next time I lay flexible track with a joint on the curve I will also stagger the joint. Regards, David.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it David.
Stay safe. Regards Charlie
James Goodall and Sarah, both are Hattons class 66 with sound. Excellent.
Thanks Sam. Regards Charlie
As I intend to use as much of the flexible track I have those gauges and track setters are just what I need. Thank you charlie for this video. Q. I am going to have a raised section of track around the Perimeter of my main two boards and the added extension boards. How short can I make the risers (3%) to come level with a Hornby viaduct and make sure my older collection of mainly Triang and Triang Hornby steam and diesel locos can still climb them? Some of the steamers do have Magderhesion. Martin. (Thailand)
Sorry Martin but that’s up to you to do some trials. I think the best thing to do is to set up a 3% climb and see if your locos can make it. Steam locos are really the problem area, not the diesels. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for some great track laying tips. I’ve certainly learnt something today ,hopefully it will help me lay my N gauge track better...or not as the case may be.
Thanks Ron, regards Charlie
Very informative. I'm hoping to start on my layout within the next month so the helps a lot.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Tyler
Laying flexi track I think has to be my least favorite task on my model railway, it just makes me want to fall asleep, so I give you credit for making a video about my least favorite task and managing to keep me nodding off, unfortunately the Dog however... he's out cold, we can't win them all. 👍 😅
Perhaps you need to look at this video as a sedative, also avoid taking sleeping tablets!
Merry Christmas to my model railroad professor! Thanks for all your great videos throughout the year!
And I do love the Tracksetta tools!
You’re too kind Craig. Have a great Christmas regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie!
You’re most welcome Warren.
First off a "thank you" and stay safe. You've made me a regular visitor through your careful planning and stable camera work.
Here's the question: Why Copydex? It seems expensive, at least on my side of the Atlantic. If you share it's attractive characteristics , perhaps I can find something cheaper, here.
Hi, The only similar product I can find stateside is woodland scenics track bed glue. It also seems to be a rubber-based glue compound. Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie,
The Hornby Rocket is absolutely fantastic. For such a small, light weight locomotive it purrs along and more then capable pulling 6 carriages.
Perhaps next week you could share your favourite part of the layout so far?
Love your videos by the way. I’ve been busy putting lots of your tips and how to’s into practise.
Wishing you and your family a very Merry Christmas.
Thanks Richard, great comment . Regards Charlie
I bought one of the new princess royals, great loco, I’ve not had any issues and it’s now one of my go to locos
Thanks for the feedback Luke.
Thanks for the feedback Luke.
Hi Charlie, good video all my track is PECO flexi i have 2 cross overs, [new] the points are old HORNBY with top mounted motors [12] i bought them 35 years ago second hand and they still work well, stay safe Happy Christmas to you and yours all the best TONY [GRIFFIN STATION].
Tony, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
I bought the hattons class 66 not so long ago, runs perfect but one of the axle boxes fell of after 2 minutes of getting out the box
Just the type of info that I'm after Josh, regards Charlie
Once again Charlie another great video to watch whilst having to adjust my layout again very good advice.
I just wish i had started with peco track and not hornby when i started and i had known that the loco's i was buying would struggle with small radius curves hence me having to relay track.
I would love to see train automation using jmri as i don;t think i can afford the bigger systems.
I'm also very lucky to have a swmbo who let me have the whole loft for my layout which she sometimes helps with the scenics.
Sadly I don’t use JMRI. However there are lots of videos on RUclips to help. Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie for the plug, I've certainly had more veiws and a few more subscribers. Glad to see the track put to good use. I have the hornby rocket and have to say it's amazing, not only in detail but its size. Something that small shouldn't work. I will put up a video of it soon. I'm ballasting at the moment. Your layout is looking great, enjoying the vids regard Jim
Thanks Jim and I’m pleased that you have acquired a few more subscribers.
Interesting way to use the spacer tools; the demo for the Prosers version has all three green bits in the same track, so you can keep a constant radius. Hence an alternative to the tracksetta, but with one tool for all of the different radius curves. I like your use, which is ideal for your staging yard configuration, but you may wish to use them in the Prosers fashion for curves (including progressive starts) later.
Happy Christmas to you. And already missing the show in two weeks!
Thanks for the info Tom. I shall explain the tool's other use.
Regards Charlie
Couldn't help but notice the "triangular" hillside scenery. I have the same problem coming up soon. Have you made a video featuring it Charlie?
Sorry JR, but I haven’t. It’s made of sculpted polystyrene.
Regards Charlie
Excellent video, I’ve given thought to the subject of joining track on the curve and like you soldered the fishplates. Regarding rail expansion to me cut the track in the centre of a run and as you say stagger the joint. Droppers either side of the cut gives continuity. I’m in the process of creating blocks in existing track work and have found some disc cutters on evil bay for the Dremel with a thickness of only 0.6mm. Should do the job ok I reckon.
I think that you're right Roy. Regards Charlie
Great good, keep it coming👍
Thanks Miguel and best wishes for 2021
Another great video Charlie, I find them very helpful so thank you very much.
Glad you like them Rob. Regards charlie