ME flex track laying tips | getting good trackwork | Model Railroad Hobbyist | MRH
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2014
- mrhmag.com - MRH columnist Charlie Comstock provides a number of great tips for laying MicroEngineering flex track. Part of the September 2014 issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine.
Хобби
Hi Charlie,
Just latched onto your RUclips video and I like the way you put the tips you offer over, nothing flash, nothing glitzy just plain old advice. Keep it up - good work.
I wish your video was the first tutorial I watched! Now, I am going to go back and fix the mistakes that I made, by not filing the ends of the rail to make a smooth connection. And, to work on my curves to make them smooth. Even though I have to go back and fix some things, I'm glad I saw your video. It will make my layout even better!
An extremely informative and well narrated video full of great tips which I will utilise, thank you. Your solder joints were extremely good, solder flowed well and left a neat compact joint. Will definitely be using the caulk versus track pins and will get a gauge as yours to complement my Tracksetta radii and straight gauges. Have loads of Peco code 100 flex track to lay and ballast.
I late to this chat, but I saw this video and compared it to other methods that I have seen and this one works great for me. I use Peco code 100 and 83 and it made laying track very easy. Why someone would think that this is ridiculous is beyond me. There is more than one way to skin a cat and there is more than one way to lay track. You use the method that best suits you and your railroad. Hey MRHM, thanks for the video and showing me this method, great idea even if your track is not as stiff as ME.
David Muse (WTCMRR)
Very nice soldering technique on those feeders. Thanks for sharing
I just love a good track video. You can't beat it!
I've laid flex track before, but not ME. This will be new to me so Thank you for the "How-To".
Thanks, Charlie.YES, I found your video useful, helpful. I have always been a spiker into spruce plywood. Trying to minimize noise on a rural highball section of rail on my new upper level, I am looking to alternate methods. I will be using cork, maybe with camper tape under it. Much appreciated, article & video. Cheers, G
Now I know were all the push pins have gone. Sanding is a must I use a rotey sander with shop vac attached. You must sand the cork. Love the soldering, I agree I solder all rail joiners. Now I know what those tools are in jar I have had for 20 years. I cut track with dremel cut off wheel. Stops most of the filing. I use track nails to hold track in place until I ballast, then go back and pul nails and fill holes. I have found that it makes it easier to make changes if things are not working the way I concieved them to happen. Great point about getting the ties right. Buy 3ft metal ruler from Lowes or Home Depot Charlie is 100% right you cannot get track stright without using a stright edge. So whats for dinner. THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS ON LAYING TRACK i have seen. will put it in my playlist.
Art, I think unless you a trying for irregular roadbed to simulate prototype lumpy track, a rotary sander is a mistake. It must be nearly impossible to sand cork smooth and flat with it. That's while I use such a long (16") sanding block - to keep the sanded cork from having ups and downs sanded into it.
@@BCSJRR Never had a mins problem. Use 80 grit and lean the sander all kind of ways takes all the ruff edges. Same tons of ballast.
Excellent tutorial
Thanks for taking the time to go about this in a common sense approach.
Great tips and tricks.
Nick Australia
that has been the most helpful video I have seen regarding laying track. this method also works well with the peco flexitrack only I use thin screws with oversize washers to fix the track in place until the caulk has cured. I personally cannot stand nail heads exposed on the top of sleepers. How often do you see a 9" disc on top of a sleeper every 9 yards or so on the real thing. it is horses for courses and for me this video was superb. thankyou for taking the time to post it.
Excellent video. I'm new to model railroading and I thought this video was very educational. Love MRH too.
Is good to see that the experts struggle a bit just like us LOL! Great how to video. The shot at the end shows how smooth the curve looks. RT
Very well done, with precise and clean results. Extra effort hiding feeders well worth it.
Thanks again for this video. It will be helpful for my use of ME Code 70 and 83 on cork.
Wow! Too many great tips to list. Excellent video, ty👍🏼
This was a very good tutorial and highly detailed. Thank you.
Excellent video. Thank you. I like the cans as weights.
Awesome video. I never thought about using that tool to help bend the curve. I'd love to see a video on how Charlie makes his turnouts.
My preferred method for roadbed is Double -sided foam mounting tape available in cheap shops. It's about 1.5 mm thick and about 16 mm wide. I lay two strips side by side and by running a sharp knife held at a 45 degree angle to the base board create the ballast profile.. As the protective covering tape is still on the tape till you are ready to lay the track, this bevelling is easier done after laying the track . It is necessary to be precise when laying the track in position as you only get one shot at it but it is not difficult to do if you start at one end and keeping the track elevated so as not to contact the tape before you are ready, guide the track into position with the other hand, running the tips of your index finger and thumb along the edges of the tape as a guide to centralise it. When in position ballast as usual. This Double-sided tape method eliminates glue spreading, pinning down or weighting down and waiting for cork to dry, eliminates sanding and clamping track down while waiting for its glue to dry. It also does not seem to be noisy and the only form of noise transference can be through the ballast. It has never failed even in frequent 40 degree c temperatures in my layout shed and most of it has been in use for over 20 years Hope this may be helpful.
Thanks, Charlie. I'm a newbie to ME flex track and this video is extremely helpful. Now to see if I can find that track alignment tool that seems to be out of production...
Darned good video and information. I don't have a track gauge but I'm going to get one right away. Has to be very helpful tool.
Just getting into model railroads again after decades long abscence, this has some great information on dealing with flex track, thanks!
really good work here, thank you for showing
Great technique 12:39 for soldering the rail joiners already install on the track and underneath. thanks.
Good video. I use basically, the same techniques with Atlas flex. However, as a guy with unsteady hands, I find it easier to solder the pieces of flex track, and the feeders, on the bench.
“Check the rail size” very good advice, as I recently made the mistake of using a section of code 40 it place of of code 55 on my N scale layout…
Very nice way of doing it. I like it.
Very useful. Thanks to teach us!
Very Helpful, I learned many new things. Thank you!
Thank you for such an informative video. I am in the planning stages of my layout and I will be sure to employ your techniques once I start building it. I do have one question though. Why do you use caulk instead of glue/ liquid nail when laying the track?
Very informative! Good job. Great tricks! I'm gonna have to get that handy dandy flex tool to help curve my track. I used old Atlas snap track for my layout. Mistake.
nice video , think id solder my wires to the rail joiners when the track isnt glued down , thanks for the tips
Very helpful, thank you!
Very informative video, thank you. I also see that you are a guitar player (and likely a good player). I too have both hobbies!
Very helpful video! Nice job. ;)
This is an incredibly helpful video. Thanks.
Great video!
Great video, a great way to cut rails is with a dog nail trimmer, it cuts all sides at the same time with no "point"
Hi. Thanks for an excellent video. As a beginner, I'm trying to discover the best way to solder droppers to track. Some solder to the bottom, and some to the outside, as you say, the ballast and the weathering hide a multitude of sins. I wonder how you introduce the replacement sleepers after the soldering is done? Does the dropper wire not adversely affect the sleepers when you re introduce them?
great advice on the alignment tool, ME flex track is a bear to shape by hand
Great Video Charlie !!! That is pretty much how I lay my track, only two things that I do different: 1. I use the clear DynaFlex, it goes on white so I can see where I am spreading it and dries clear. 2. I hyper elevate my curves on the main using narrow strips of blue painters tape under the outside rail. I start at the beginning of the curve with one layer and run it to the other end of the curve. I start each successive layer 4 inches in and and do the same on the other end until I have 5 layers. I model in N Scale so you would need more layers and maybe start each new layer a little farther in. The trains look great going around the curves !!! Ron Marsh has a great video on curve easements and Hyper Elevation on his RUclips Chanel, Ron’s Trains N Things.
Barry
Great video, Thanks. I would only add that after the track is where you like it I use push pins to hold it down and then add my cans. I'll put one or two pins in every 3 cans. Again, nice presentation and explanation as you go along. You didn't mention where you got your curving guide. Is it commercially available or did you make it?
nice touch to the feeders
Hi, Enjoyed your video. One question please...what do you suggest to fasten down flex track on benchwork that is 1/2 inch plywood with a 1 inch foam board on top. The track also has 1/8 inch cork roadbed. Where can I get the fasteners and what are the specs on them?
thanks
Bob
Well done. I have the ME weather code 83 and it is difficult to bend and also get a smooth curve.
Do you have any videos on laying a yard? The challenge is making a smooth transition from the main line roadbed height to the lower yard height. I am looking for ideas. I'll check your videos posted. Thanks and well done.
Thank you.
Great video very informative. Where did you find a track alignment tool ? Or did you make it yourself ? If so how and with what material did you use it with ?
That little tool is genius. I've always heard that ME track is really stiff. Have you tried the newer "American style" Peco code 83?
Outstanding video have added it to my playlist. This is one I will not have to do. Thank you.
arthurhouston3 you suck
I appreciate the video a lot. And I'll just need to make myself a little tool for curving the track. I'm looking for a demonstration of how to curve the track from the inside rather than the outside, such as when the track is turning a corner where two walls come together.
I think that this is a great video, chock full o' useful information, very well explained and demonstrated.. Thanks!
I'm going to be laying N scale ME track, but right onto the layout board, not on any raised roadbed. They say it's noisier, but I don't care about that. Any comments??
mikerossscuba, the cork roadbed makes the track look prototypical, and does dramatically reduce the noise when running your trains. For some of your sidings you can sand a ramp on the roadbed down to your base and lay that track directly on the plywood base for an even more realistic look !!!
Barry
Nice tips!!
Thank you for another perspective on track laying. I like your method of soldering the joiners and attaching power feeds underneath. One question - do you use ballast or paint to cover up the dry caulk marks? Regards, Angus.
+Angus Stewart (Waverley Cross) Ballast covers all sins (and funky cork...)
What do you do for replacing ties that you cut out under the joints? Or do you leave them out?
New to this. Kinda. My dad set up a board as a kid. Question- what are the feeder wires for? Is that to your /from your power supply? Or is it to pull power from the track to go to a light or some such?
I’m new at this. I’m just beginning to lay Atlas n-80 track. My cross overs have small gaps (1/16”) between the two #6 turn outs and the 5” straight through track. Question: are small gaps between pieces okay as long as I solder the rail joiners?? Thanks!
Several comments:
Finger nails - I bet the fellow is a finger-style acoustic guitar player. They tend to have longer nails on the picking hand to make up for not using a pick.
Soldering - heat itself isn't so much the enemy but dwell time on the joint. Use a hotter iron (not one of those old Weller guns) and a solder with a good flux (not the water soluble crap). Also in the MLR kit is a tool that will help keep rails in gauge when soldering. It's the one with two cut-outs on the sides.
Holding track down - if you don't have a bunch of cans of food use push pins with a long pointy end until either the caulk hardens or your done ballasting. Then delete the pins.
musicman8942 - You got it. Charlie is a *very good* acoustic guitar player and we've *never* seen him use a pick.
Cool. I can't do that as my nails are too brittle. Picks all the way except for sometimes on bass. I play acoustic as well as electric guitar & bass. And of course there's the trains :) HO and N
I finally found one of those track alignment tools on ebay! I was so excited I had to tell someone.
nice tutorial
I have always just used my finger to spread the sleepers (ties) although I've always used Peco track. Not sure if ME track is harder or not. Also did you put a transition curve in when you laid down the cork?
+Neale Beresford I haven't used Peco track so I can't comment there. Yes, I do use transition curves.
Berry good
If you want to pull the rails up how hard is it for it to release from the caulking or do you destroy the track??
I have had problems with the ME weather code 83 bending to a smooth curve....So thanks for the tip with the rail alignment tool...I thought it was only the weather track that was hard to bend...Apparently the unweatherd track does the same thing...
+Uptown Photography I've used ME weathered track in the past. Yes, while unweathered track takes some coaxing to get into position, the weathered track takes even more. I stopped using the weathered track, partly because of the additional coaxing required, and partly because of the extra prep work required to solder it. On the upside, it's easier to get a coat of paint to stick to the weathered rail, than the shinier unweathered rail.
Great video and explanation on laying flextrack. How much working time do you have with the caulk before the track is set? Again, thanks for the input - good info!
The cans can come off in an hour or so if you're in a hurry. But canned corn is relatively cheap so getting enough to weight down 30' of flex track would seem reasonable if you're in the major track work frenzy. I prefer to leave the cans on over night, but that's probably overkill. After two or three hours more time probably makes little difference.
Watching how you bend the rails, you would be a natural 45mm guy. The rail bender is just a bit more expensive, though.
Will the tool work with PECO Code 100 flex track? If so where do you buy that tool!
Charlie,
Two questions.
1) I noticed you soldered your feeder wires to the underside of the rail joiners. Nice idea. Got to try it. HOWEVER, wouldn't it be easier to prefab the joiner to the drop wire separately. Then do your rail to rail clean up. Connect both sets of track with the drop wired/joiners. Complete THAT solder joint. Drop your line through the road bed & make temporary trunk line wire connections?
It seems easier & safer to make the drop wire/joiner connections away from the layout. And done this way you can mass produce these connections on a lazy TV evening.
2) I know this video was shot & uploaded back in 2014 (this being 2019). About two weeks before this upload I found, while working in the U.K., GaugeMaster Track Underlayment. A foam core rolled track product, that is ballast in the factory to look prototypical. HOWEVER, in the molding process GaugeMaster molds in an indentation where modelers can push into place their trackage, even between the ties, for a job quickly & well done. I myself have been using it for these past five years. Pulling up my previous cork beds with each upgrade. Have you ever used GaugeMaster?
Good job even 5 years Down the Line.
SEE YA' DOWN THE LINE
Jim
Have you actually tried soldering the feeders to the bottom of the rails when the rails are in place? It's nowhere near as difficult as you think it is. One thing that I forgot in the video is to pre-tin then upper ends of the feeders before threading them in their holes and placing the track over them.
@@BCSJRR Yes I have solder hundreds of miles of "O", "HO". "OO", "ON30", "N", "G", & "S" Scale tracking over my 60+ years in the hobby. My recommendation of 2 years ago was intended as an easy, quick, and safe way to mass produce drop feeders. While avoiding melting commercially manufactured or scratch built plastic RxR ties. To answer your post I went back to find out why I even commented. And you included it here, in your reply, the cause. You failed to pre-tin your feeders. To date I still use off seasons time to mass produce layout elements I know I will use SOMEDAY. Hence my recommendation. It must go back to my old BOY SCOUT days to "BE PREPARED".
I feel like this would apply even with regular flex track. I see the ME Flex-Trak is bit more stiff but I will be modeling code 100 (chose it for price, and because once ballast is down black ties won't bug me, and it'll be painted as well) and I bought a bulk case of 100 pieces. I too will be running cork so this will help with securing track to the cork. Never even crossed my mind to sand it. Last time I did model railroading I was about 12 and had zero patience and a old 4x8 sheet on saw horses. This time around will be different. I saw you soldered the inside of the rails, and from my understanding that's a big no-no but I also see you had some very thin solder to work with. Do you have to touch up the inside of the rails?
I'm using thin electronics grade rosin core solder. Don't use any kind of plumbing solder or large diameter solder. It will take much longer to heat up. Not using rosin core solder will make it harder for the melted solder to flow into the joints and may result in lumps.
I see you are soldering the 2 3' sections Question are you soldering all the 6' sections together also and how far apart to you add feeders, Thanks
Charlie thank you. so informative. Can You adivse on brand of HO code 83 flex track? i,e, Atlas, ME, Peco Walthers, etc. and reasons why you use ME? I am preparing to buildHo layout and have differing opions given m e tha tI should use code 100 instead of code 83. I'm confused. Also, Some guys say they've had trouble with some Atlas turnouts vs. the Peco , ME or Walthers. Also, is it necessary to solder joints with flex track if using good track connectors and the track is fastened dow firmly? I'm new at all this. You thoughts would be very appreciated thanks so much. Andrew Walsh
I'm not that familiar with Peco track. The ME track has superior appearance to Atlas (finer details) and of late it costs less, too. Because the Atlas track wont hold a curve by itself, I don't recommend this method of gluing track in place for Atlas track.
Nice video. Is cutting off one tie from the end of each piece of flex about the max you should cut off?
There is no fixed rule for the number of ties to remove. When laying track on a curve the outer rail has longer to go than the inner rail and it may "fall behind". This can result in the rail ends of a piece of flex track not being exactly across from each other. Sometimes one tie off each end at a joint between two pieces of flex is plenty. Sometimes 3 or more may be needed.
Man ME track almost seems more work than it is work. It is nice that it holds it's shape though. I suppose fast tracks sweep sticks would make this track easier to work with. Great video!
James Smith
I bend my ME track slowly by hand like I did brass track with fiber ties way back in the 60s. I also use spikes instead of chalk.IMHO ME track isn't hard to work with and its not like the floppy Atlas flex track.
Where do you get that track alignment doohickey?
Question from the 1 minute video. You said, "Be sure you have the right size rail before you install it".
Would you explain further on make sure to have the right or wrong size rail?
What are the names of the different types and sizes?
How do you know you have the right type rail?
What are the different rail type names?
How do you specify the correct rail type when ordering the rail?
.
Bill R.
Model railroad rails come in different heights. These are identified as code 100, code 83, code 70 and code 55 in HO scale. Other scales have different sizes. The term "code" is just a non-obvious way of giving the rail height in thousandths of an inch. So code 83 rail is .083" tall while code 55 rail is .055" tall. I use the different heights to model the different sizes of rail used by the prototype. Interestingly, the prototype specifies rail by how much a yard (or is it foot) of rail weighs. In HO scale code 83 approximates typical mainline rail size,. Code 70 approximates siding rail size (often lighter weight than mainline rail) and code 55 approximates the even lighter rails used on spur tracks or in yard areas (where equipment moves relatively slowly.
Even though Im new, I noticed a couple of things. Arent you supposed to stagger the track cuts, especially in a curve? That would be stronger and prototypical. When soldering, shouldnt you only solder on the outsides of the rails?
Good observations. I've found that with ME track on a 40" radius with both rails soldered, staggering isn't required. Just make sure the joiners are soldered with the track straight - don't bend the track first, then solder the joints. It's extremely difficult to get a smooth joint through a curve if your solder afterward.
If you're not soldering the joiners then you'd be well advised to stagger the joints by a few ties.
When a rail joiner is soldered properly, most of the solder should be wicked up inside the rail joiner. If there's lost of solder left on top of the joiner, either you're using too much solder, you didn't heat the joint enough for the rail inside the joiner to get hot enough, or the rail wasn't clean so the solder wouldn't flow well under the joiner. After soldering the rail and joiner should look like they have a patina (thin layer) of *shiny* solder on them, but the gaps between the joiner and the rail(s) inside it should be filled with solder. Capillary action will suck the molten solder up inside the joiner if the pieces are clean and properly heated.
Charlie, I m a newbie to flextrack. I got a lot out of your tip video here. I have that tool from ME but would you also use a long template for the curves as well? Also: my PECO flex track seemed drastically INFERIOR to the Atlas brand in terms of the way it handled. As soon as I cut my Peco track the tiny molded plastic spikes had released the rail in the middle of the track on one side. There is NO way to remedy that except to try to push the rail down after smoothing out the tiny spikes with a file, then using rail spike and a Pin Vise. Ugly solution!
Same problem here with the rails coming out from under the ME spikes. I'm worried it's gonna take forever to build a minimum radius flex track curve. I may have to drive in scale spikes to keep the rails in gage
So basically you first glue the cork down how you want the track to run, sort of like a mock up travk then fit and cut the actual track on top of the cork?
Yes.
Another great video thanks! Does this mean we are getting closer to the sequel to Hot Train Alco Mania? I have almost worn out the first one..
Right now I'm trying to get the mainline completed. After that I'll be getting the layout ready for the 2015 Portland National convention. After that I'll drop from exhaustion for a month or two. After that, who knows?
BCSJRR Fair enough, make sure you squeeze some fun in there as well.
How do you get the correct track radius for multiple parallel flexi tracks going round a sharp corner?
I plot two parallel center lines for the curve using a trammel (a stick with a hole at one end I put a nail or a thumb tack through - this becomes the pivot point - and two other holes the radius of the two tracks away from the pivot hole - i put a pencil through these holes and sweep the trammel leaving a curved arc behind it).
Nice work sir. I find it easier, however, to solder the feeders on the bench before I put the track down. Doesn't mean it's a better way, just different. If your way works okay, so be it. "Different strokes for different folks"! ;-)
gerald stephens given the tweaking I'm doing for final alignment of the track, I'm concerned I'd have trouble getting the feeders and their holes to line up with each other.
Charlie
profanity described no mistake for tracks instilling layout...I learn it be prepare for layout. one thing that I see one video he adding a one yarn thread size or a 1/8 or 1/16 white thread rope in under the curve flex track around so little angle up on side a track or both track curve that is good idea? what do you thinks of this?
Sorry, I do not speak fluent gibberish. Wish I could help.
When working tracks take your time Build it with Pride.
I don't use that tool to form my curves.. I do it by hand. This skill I learned working with the old Atlas brass fiber tie track from the 50/ early 60s.
excellent instructional video I am sure it will help me when the time comes.. the tool in this video is no longer available
MICRO MARK Item #: 84114 is available 7 piece track shaping set 30.00
How do you get the precise soldering joints? I have tried to but i usually end up with a blob about 5mm in diameter on the rail
Peter Irving, There is more to good soldering than just putting flux on the joint heating it and adding solder. It starts with properly maintaining your soldering iron. Over the years I have become very frustrated with soldering irons !!! They work great when new but after a while they don’t heat the joint enough to properly melt the solder. I never thought about regular maintenance for my soldering irons, I just wiped them across a wet sponge and when that didn’t help any more I “cleaned” the tip with with some fine sandpaper until it was shiny again, after a couple times doing that the tip is DOA (Dead On Arrival) !!!
Well earlier this year Ron Marsh (Ron’s Trains N Things) posted a great Video on soldering and how to properly clean and maintain your soldering iron. I purchased the items that he used and got a new adjustable temperature soldering iron. WOW What A Difference, my tip is always ready to go and my soldering joints are way better than before. With this method you actually clean the tip every time you solder a joint, but it only takes a second or two.
Barry
I use Weller controlled heat soldering irons. They're a bit pricey but they do a great job and last a long time. Sounds like your iron isn't making good thermal contact with the joiner/rails. Have you tinned the tip of the iron? Are all surfaces you're soldering clean and shiny? Try practicing on some scraps of rail / track before working on track that's installed on your layout where it's harder to reach.
Where can I get a track alignment tool ?
Im kinda new so can uou please tell me what the feeder wires are for
Hi Levi,
Feeders serve two purposes:
The nickle silver rails are a moderately good conductor of electricity. But over a long distance their resistance adds up quickly and can cause a significant reduction in track voltage.
I run 12 ga stranded copper bus wires under the roadbed as track power bus wires and use the feeder wires to connect the track to the bus wires. EVERY piece of track on my layout is attached to the bus wires via soldered joints.
The 12 ga bus wires have very low resistance compared to the nickle silver rails. The network of bus wires below the roadbed connected to the rails means more of the DCC power can get to the trains.
Note: I use 12 ga bus wires because I have some long runs. If your runs are shorter you can use 14 ga or 16 ga bus wires. If you're building a 4x8 layout bus wires probably aren't necessary - just include a track power (feeder) wire between each rail segment and your power pack or DCC booster.
This brings up the second purpose for the feeder wires - I NEVER trust an unsoldered rail joiner to conduct track power over the long term. Each piece of track separated from others by unsoldered rail joiners gets its own set of feeder wires making the track power wiring extremely reliable.
This may seem like overkill but my layout hasn't had intermittent electrical problems in the track since I started construction back in early 2004.
While an unsoldered rail joiner may appear to work fine when it's installed, over time and especially after painting the rails (a nice rusty color), adding scenery near the track, or ballasting the track, connection through the rail joiner can become intermittent and result in no power in a piece of track. When this happens intermittently it can be really frustrating trying to locate the problem.
The feeder wires solve this issue.
Does this answer your question?
Charlie
It looks great with the caulk, but why use that over nailing the track down? It looks like a lot more work.
Nails can easily be pressed in too far, causing the ties to bow slightly and tighten the gauge. Plus with caulk, the track can be removed later if needed for any track realignments. Getting the track down without bowing the ties using nails is actually more work. Finally, it looks better. Nailheads are unsightly and out-of-scale - more appropriate only for hidden track or toy train layouts.
Unless you're using scale size spikes (from the proto87 store), spikes driven by hand tend to be too large. If you're driving Atlas track nails through the holes in the center of the ties, you'll have an unsightly blob that will look like someone cut the last 2" off a watermelon, painted it black, and set it on a tie. Cameras will REALLY show this - if you ever in your wildest dreams plan to photograph your layout from a scale person's eye height, do NOT use the track nails. They'll be obvious eye sores in your photos. That said, I DO use track nails and Atlas code 83 flex track in my hidden staging tracks - you're correct that track will go down much faster that way. But for appearance, gluing down ME flex track is close to tops - at least in my opinion. Btw, if you're laying Atlas flex track, most of the stuff you'll see in this video will not apply. Atlas track doesn't need to be coaxed into shape.
what if you decide to redo your track now that it's glued to the cork track will be junk instead of tacking track down
It's possible, with extreme care to get the track up. But most of the time you're right, pull the rails out of the ties and use them for scratchbuilding turnouts or crossings.
It helps emphasize that one should know with certainty where the tracks should go before laying track.
On the other hand, I've been known to mockup the track in a town using Atlas flex and track nails. Then when I'm sure I know what I want, I pull that up and do it properly. I much prefer the appearance of ME track compared with Atlas.
But this method of track laying is not good for experimenting!
What's the shaping tool called and where can I get one?
Unfortunately the company that made them has called it quits and I don't know where you can buy one. You might find one at a swap meet if you keep your eyes peeled for it. I think you should be able to make one yourself though. A band saw will be needed. unless you are very steady with a hand saw... If you don't have a band saw, see if one of your friends has one. Cut a piece of hardwood stock to be about 2" long. Then mark it where the rails will go (according to you gauge). You might be able to use carbon paper place on the track with the carbon side up, then press your block down on the carbon paper to leave a couple of lines on the wood. Now stand the wood on it's end and carefully cut a small slot at one of the rail marks. Even more carefully, repeat, cutting a slot where the other rail will go. Check to see if it fits moderately tightly on a piece of ME flex track. If so you're done. If its really loose, you'll need to start over. If it's really tight go back to the band saw and carefully enlarge one or both of the slots. This tool isn't used to set track gauge so the slots don't need to perfectly match your NMRA gauge. A little slop is needed to get the tool around a curve. Hardwood is needed instead of softwood so the tool doesn't quickly wear out from rubbing it back and forth over your track.
This is a nice video. don't get upset, but what do i need feeder wires for?
Feeder wires on each section of track makes power delivery much more consistent. Connecting them to significantly larger bus wires underneath the layout also helps to ensure the power level is more consistent across the layout, especially for bigger layouts.
@@pathvalleyrailroad9277 Path is correct on both points. I use 12 gauge bus wires under the layout. To avoid confusion the track power bus wires are color coded the same as the feeder wires.
I would have soldered the wires to the joiners while the track was still up and free. Seems like it would have been easier
It would easier at first. But with the track not being in place, the precise location of the joiner (once track is aligned) is not known. Having the wires already soldered would make final track alignment considerably more difficult.
How you make soldering look so easy my soldering just runs of can never get it to stick
I use electronics grade thin rosin core solder and a Weller controlled heat soldering iron and make sure the tip is clean and tinned before starting on a joint.
Do you not replace the ties you cut out?
I have a central vac system. If an intact ME flex tie gets in it, it can plug it up. So I try to always snip any removed ties in half to prevent that.
Once the track has been tested sufficiently and is ready for paint / weathering I replace the missing ties with pieces cut from Mt Albert HO scale bulk tie stock (you can get it on the Fast Tracks website in the USA - handlaidtrack.com). I glue the pieces in place with yellow glue then the track is ready for painting.
If I added these replacement ties right away it would make track work repairs more difficult if it should turnout out they are needed.
Very nice. Will the same techniques work for n scale flex?
+Patricia Palm-Principe It should work fine with ME N-scale track - but I've not laid any N-scale flex track since the early 70's so I can't speak from direct experience.
BCSJRR im also laying ME code 70 flex track in n scale thanks for the tutorial
Yes I have been working with N Gauge Flex Track for almost 40 years and Charlie’s method will work, if you work with Atlas Flex Track you won’t necessarily need the alignment tool but I do everything the same.
Any updates?
What so that track alignment tool called and where did you get it?
Sadly the company that made these has closed its doors and the tool is no longer commercially available (as far as I know anyway...). You can make your own with a piece of wood and hacksaw. Just cut two parallel slots in the top of a small piece of wood so that the railheads fit in the slots.
MLR Manufacturing is the maker, but the owner has retired and these are no longer being made. Many sources are sold out now. Try googling MLR track tool, and good luck. They're almost gone at this point.
Can you send me a link to find the track alignment tool?
whats the name of that5 tool?
Where do you get that tool for curving the track?
It's no longer available. But you can easily make your own from a piece of 1x2. Just cut some saw kerfs into it at HO gauge and you're good to go. If you have a table saw, it will take you just a few minutes to make it. If you don't have a table saw, time to make friends with a neighbor or fellow modeler who does!
@@MRhobbyist Or get a piece of .060" styrene about 1.7" long (for HO scale) and glue some other pieces on top to leave a couple of slots that match your track gauge.