You are correct once again! But between you and me I could have put up a picture of her from a week ago and people would still know who she is. Glad you found the vid helpful :-)
@@classicmodeltrains LOL yes your are correct regarding Christie. I agree with Marc’s comments. This was the easiest video I have seen to understand not just DC vs DCC controls, but just wiring in general. It totally different to see how you approached wiring than reading or many others videos, very clear and understandable! Thanks again!
Recently became interested in trains and looking into the different scales, tracks, etc., to gain some good knowledge so I can make a good purchase. I had Lionel train sets growing up but I was much more interested in slot cars. This was back in the 60s and 70s. How I wish I held onto those items (along with my baseball cards) but I’m not alone. Anyway, this video popped up in my recommendations and it’s the first one from you. I’m 13 minutes in and I gotta say, you’re my kind of guy. I like your style and how you walked us through the DC/DCC wiring. I don’t fully understand what DCC gives you over DC, but I’m going to look into both and see which makes sense to me. I know DCC is newer, probably digital, and costs more. Not sure yet if I should just start with it but I’ll figure that out once I know what it can do vs DC. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks and that I’m looking forward to going through your content to see what I can learn. 👍
Thanks for following along and supporting my channel. All DCC adds is sound which becomes annoying after 15 minutes, and the ability to run more than 1 train at a time. If your just starting out it's better to cut your teeth with DC and learn wiring and track maintenance before hand. DCC is WAY HARDER to diagnose problems with than DC if you dont know what your doing.
I’m very happy you made this video Ron! A lot of people have made countless videos on this subject for years. But I managed to understand this much better than most of those. Magazine articles only go so far into describing this process and I’ve have always been somewhat stupid with electronics and track wiring side of things. But now I have a pretty good idea of what I want to put on my module set up and tracks. I’ll need to find a good solution to breaking the track up and getting it to stay together and good electrical plugs and stuff. But I’m glad I understand this now. A layout I bought some years ago was pretty much completed and had this exact system wired on it as well as so much more like a operational turn table I absolutely loved to use, it had a balloon loop and wired reverser, and just so much on a 13 1/2’ x 6 1/2’ sized layout. I got multiple pictures of it and wished I would have been able to keep it as it was a beautiful piece. But all good things came to an end and I certainly hope the new owner really loves it still. To my understanding it was taken to Utah and finished but uncertain as I lost contact with the new owner. Again, quite an amazing video and I’m thankful for it. I’ll use it to reference back to. And another great installment I enjoy watching! Thank you so much Ron!
Thanks so much once again for your kind words Marc. Glad I could help out it a way. Sounds like a pretty nice and big layout you had awhile ago. Too bad you lost contact with the new owner. Maybe someday you will see it again
Hi Ron, this is Ron in Arizona. Really enjoy your videos, I just joined our local club here in Sun City West, AZ. Trying to learn as much as possible and you are my #1 guy. Keep up the good work and look forward to your next one. Adios...
@@classicmodeltrains If me and my friends would have thought about doing this in the 70s and 80s....we had some steep hills around where I grew up. We probably would have done it with bog wheels, little red wagons and that thing called the green machine. Not sure how many of us would have made it to be an adult. Bad enough half of us thought we were Evel Knievel. LOL
Hey, Ron, enjoy your channel ..... always something to learn. 😎 I really like that you are not trying to show track wiring with a pencil tip soldering iron and that you are using a soldering station to control your heat. I use a 1/8" chisel; have for 40 years. The higher heat lets me get in, get hot, get soldered and get out without melting ties. KUDOS for you choice of tip!!!!! FWIW - I use "suitcase connectors" under for drop connections. No stripping, no soldering, no getting burned of ruined shirts, less than ½ the time per connection. Only "drawback" - in my experience, only one drop per connection. Also, since my layout is in a 14' x 24' room and is around the wall, I bought a mechanics creeper that folds up into a recliner position so I'm not having to scoot around the floor under the layout. And that is CHRISTIE 😜😜 you showed.
Hello Bill, Thanks for your kind words on my video's. Yup I agree with your soldering comments, Lots of heat, large tip, get in and get out :-). I work in the mechanic industry and the suitcase connectors are a big no-no. Plus for me, they cost more money than the little time it takes me to solder them. I like your creeper idea. I think I need one. Yup good ol Christie Brinkley.
Great video! Very clearly explained. Personally I use connectors under the layout because I hate soldering above my head. Nothing good can happen when the solder drops on you. LOL Looking forward to the video on the passenger car upgrades.
Fantastic video, Ron. The best I have ever viewed regarding wiring up drops, DC / DCC. Your layout is coming along wonderfully. 🚂 After this video, I can re-wire my own small layout and take the County mutual aid Fire Companies off of " standby alert of an impending General Alarm Blaze." They'll be relived. 👈🤣🚒
That new layout is looking good! I realized I can adapt that DPDT switch for my American Flyer layout, but use it for AC or DC power, then I can run both AC or DC locomotives on the outside loop of track! With the price of copper these days, extension cords seems to be a great way to go for bus wiring.
You can run AC flyer trains on DC current. The action cars like the brake man caboose and walking brakman car will be very quiet. The Flyer motors were universal AC or DC but never run the DC locomotives on AC or bad things will happen.
This is correct. I have the outside loop of my layout set up for DC so I can run my 332 DC. The inside loop is AC because I found that some of the reversers don't operate as well on DC. Being able to switch just gives more flexibility. Oh also the walking brakeman car will not work on DC.
Beautiful! This is essentially my approach: cab control with two different power sources (analog / digital). For me, each insulated (plastic joiner) block has a DPDT switch. I solder jumper wires bridging all metal conducting rail-joiner junctions. For safety, I put small blocks in certain places as spacers to separate power sources to permit both on layout at same time with spacer blocks set to center (off) position, which I think is heresy to some. I can live with the risk of crossing power sources (possible via operator error). Thanks for posting.
@@classicmodeltrains TY! Coming from you, with respect for your sense of humor, I take that as high praise! Long story, short, Traveling Wilburys were involved...
Hey Ron. Congratulations on your “Shout Out”! Well deserved. Nice to be recognized. Great idea repurposing the 14 gauge wire and doorbell/thermostat wire. Keeps things neat and clean. This weeks model is the beautiful Christie Brinkley!
What an absolutely amazing video! I am a newcomer in the hobby. Thank you for helping me understand this so I can start my layout wiring and thank you for helping keep this hobby alive!
YOU ARE THE MAN... This guy is sooooooooooooooo good at what he knows and does .. OH Man .. He tells it right out.... I love this DC wiring as its more of a challenge and is more exciting to do and achieve ...Love it and I love TYCO .. I dont care what they others say ,, Best loco I have is a MANTUA 2-8-2 Mikado .. Man that is a great simple down to earth engine with great pulling power and a simple 5 pole engine .... DC DC DC I love it
Very interesting video Ron. I’ve learned a couple of tricks watching your work. The DC and DCC schemes are very education: you made them as simple as possible. Congratulations for another great video my friend!
Great video Ron! This video will definitely help a lot of people who are not sure how to wire up a layout correctly. You crack me up with your comments, love your video's!!
The amazing thing is, I remember a time when Model Railroader used to talk about you know, upgrading couplers, and doing work here and there and how to do DCC from DC the things that you’re doing now online I remember Montero having a articles about it.
I’ve kinda been putting off wiring my layout. Only for two reasons. First: I’m kinda lazy, after working all day. When I get through the door at home, I usually just wanna vegatate and listen to videos and watch my locos pull some rolling stock around. Second: I’ve been trying to figure out the easiest way to wire the thing up. You have just shown me the easiest way! So, CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES AND 16oz. WOOBLE POPS TO YOU! Thanks dude!
YEA! Wobble Pops :-). Glad I was able to help a Feller out. It took me 3 weeks to get around to wiring it. It's just kind of a hassle getting up and down from the ground level.
Awesome video I've been an avid model train enthusiasts for most of my life and have always wanted to build a layout and because you simplify everything so the average person can understand I'll hopefully start building my layout thanks again for your videos
Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your channel - great content, excellent production values, and the humor is a real hoot. Looking forward to future videos...
I’m about half way into this project today. This video has been very very helpful. Can’t overstate how important it is to not remove the front truck. I put myself behind schedule with that oops. 😂it’s drying now. I think I’ll keep it fairly stock looking, but I can paint it up later if I want.
Great tutorial on wiring, and I love how you put a little comedy in there to give people a chuckle too! Some of that plastic dip paint on insulation would make those connections tidy and quick.
Glad you enjoyed it! The connections are tidy and quick. No real need to insulate them. Nothing too short out on. Plus if it comes time to add another drop in that same area one could quickly solder in another one :-) This is a technique I learned from an Old Timer at the local Club here in town.
I like that you are soldering the feeder to the main bus. A good solder joint will last forever. Great video. Thanks for sharing these tips. Stay safe - Larry
You and I have the same throttles of NCE PowerCab and the powerful and mighty MRC Control Master 20! However, I use the Atlas selectors to create blocks on the layout to cut sections off. The selectors makes it easier for wiring and gives great flexibility in both analog (DC) and DCC.
Good stuff Ron, I'll be mostly following your lead for the wiring but no DC on mine. I've got a separate test track for that since I do pretty much the same thing you do.
Greetings Charlie, Thanks for your compliments on my video. I do plan on installing blocks as you mentioned. DCC is so finicky on clean power I do not want to minimize my drops. One drop on every 36" flex track does not seem excessive to me. Terminal strips are expensive and suitcase connecters are the most evil thing created by mankind. I avoid them like the plague. Soldering is quite relaxing for me and is very inexpensive. Yup....Good Ol Christie (wolf whistle) Thanks for commenting :-)
Great video. cleared up a lot of confusion. Only had 1 question. I know if you are doing DC, you need to use insulated rail joiners between sections. If you are using DCC and a common power bus, do you need insulated rail joiners between sections that are connected to the common powered bus? Thanks
Insulated rail joiners are for building "blocks" or separated circuits for your locomotive to run inside of if you wish to run multiple locomotives on the same layout using DC control. With DCC you can run multiple loco's on the same loop so ultimately you do not break your loop up into sections. BUT.....Fellers will have isolated staging or yards that are insulated from the whole layout so you can turn the power off to these specific tracks. If the layout is very large then Fellers will break it up into districts run by seperate power supplies and insulated from each other for ease of short circuit identification.
I like and understand your method for DCC and DC. Total sense. My question is this: Would it make sense to divide the track into blocks by making your drops coincide with blocks using insulated rail joiners so with DC you could still run two trains? That may complicate things by adding a bunch of DPDT switches to the DC side and how it would effect the DCC switch over. Your way is super easy for one train DC and multiple trains DCC. Thanks for the video !
Hello Keith. Your statement is very true and doable even with DCC. A lot of large DCC layout do have blocks in them but there mainly used for short out protection and ease of diagnostics. This layout is a point to point so I really can only run 1 loco at a time.
A good idea Ron, remove your Engines from the track when soldering. Just to be safe. Also, like John Banicki suggested. Do your underside wiring Before (turn your module upside down), lot easier to work on and less solder in your eye.
Greetings Lynn. This layout is not module based. there aint any loco's or usually cars on the layout when I'm wiring it up for the first time (again) Also I have found if you have solder dripping off the joint, there is too much solder being used. But thank you for sharing some good tips that are useful !! :-)
I enjoyed the video. Have you thought about using suitcase connectors to connect the feeds to the bus under the layout? My layout is DC and has 13 blocks and 9 switches and only 4X8 The wire is 20 gauge. I’m pretty old and I’ve been toying with adding DCC to my layout but it might be too much work for me to do a complete rewire. Do you have blocks on your layout?
Suitcase connecters are the devil's spawn. Much cheaper and faster to solder. Guaranteed the connection won't fail from corrosion. I am running 12 gauge bus bar and 20 gauge drops. My main line has no blocks but the yard fingers will eventually have blocks to turn off the juice when something is parked in there. I can only pay attention to 1 train at a time so I have no need for blocks. You should not have to re-wire for DCC. Just leave all your blocks turned on. Down side is DCC is very finicky and difficult to trouble shoot. The learning curve is steep and frustrating. If you desire to learn it, it can be better than DC block control if you want to run more than one at a time. The sounds are neat but after awhile they get irritating and I end up turning off the sound. Thanks for your kind words on my Video Jim :-)
I only have a simple modular layout in my garage running DC. I think if you have a much more complex layout,then yes DCC would probably be best for you especially if you are running multiples and signals, crossings, lights all the bells and whistles (pun intended).
Hi Ron, I have watched a number of your videos, thank you. I'm getting ready to build my first layout (DC / DCC) and understood everything you said with the wiring, but I had only one question. You wired up the DPDT switch so either DC or DCC is supplying voltage to the tracks but in the end of the video you had two engines running at the same time, was that under DCC? Or did you have a DC and a DCC train running simultaneously? I was a little confused and maybe you cut the video in a way that led me to believe you had a DC and DCC at the same time. Also, what do you do for power to buildings and accessories? Do you run a separate independent supply and a buss for that? Also, since I'm so new, what do you power your turnouts with, the DC/DCC controller or a separate supply? Thanks
I can only run DC OR DCC. I cannot run both at the same time. I either had 2 DCC loco's running or 2 DC ones. Lighting and turnout power would come from separate buss lines and power supply correct My turnouts are manually operated with my finger. I do more modeling than operation so not a lot of switching is taking place
FYI, if you're soldering directly to the track pick up a pair of heat sink clamps, you can slap them on the rail and help protect the plastic ties from melting if you apply a bit too much heat.
Hi..Ralphy from Brooklyn NY here... bin chekin u out...like ur "keep it simple ways".. question: when i go out to home depot looking for the dp-dt switch, shud i b making sure of a certain amperage that the switch is designed for...Watchin u has encourged me to build it..jus curious about amperage concern when buying switch...Thx Ron😎👍
hi ron, i appreciate the idea of running dual power...i have dc now and wanted to switch, i just didnt know if it was possible without a complete rewire
Hi Ron, I wanna hook up my control master 20 to the aristocraft walk around controller. I tried the conventional route and it doesn't work. Any tips how I could do it? Thanks I'm advance
Hello Ted, I am not familiar with a Aristocraft walk around controller so I cant help ya there. My CM 2.0 has its own walk around corded controller that's proprietary to the base.
I've never used insulators after turnouts. Unless it's in a yard and I want to park a locomotive. With DCC you can park a loco anywhere at anytime is I guess I would say no insulators needed
12 or 14 gauge buss wire in copper is not very expensive. Never seen it in aluminum for that gauge size. Find old discarded extension cords and cut the outer jacket off and you have lots of good 14 gauge copper wire.
I put floors in my HO buildings. Made them stronger and you couldn't see the back door from the top floor windows. You could also do more detail inside if you wanted for the buildings that are close to the edge, so that the children can see things that look real.
Maybe use a spdt for your power switch hooked to the 110 outlet instead of 2 spst. Double protection to keep from supplying both sources at the same time
I am strictly a DC guy. DCC is way too expensive for an old retired guy with a fixed income. The switch is a double pole double throw. How much does it cost to get into DCC? Great tip for repurposing wire. Since I'm a Ham radio operator, I've repurposed house wiring (Romex) for ground wires and making antennae. When I had my old layout I used insulated rail joiners for setting up blocks which were controlled by a SPST switch. That way I could isolate different sections. Are your switches DCC friendly? I used to rewire switches to get power through the points. I just wish I'd made a schematic of how I wired them. Cheers from eastern TN
used DCC controllers run $75-$125. DCC no sound loco's can be picked up $35 and up. You can wire in a no sound DCC decoder for around $20 and up. My turnouts are DCC friendly yes.
DC is nice and simple. no sounds and one train at a time operation. DCC has sound, multiple loco operation at the same time and are quirky Pain in the arse to diagnose when something goes wrong.
On my N-Scale layout, I have a reversing loop of which loops around through a mine and back out again. At the beginning of this loop I have a right hand switch. The entrance to this loop from the mainline enters from the fixed end. Here is the problem. If I decide to take the right spur to go around the mine then there is no problem. All my engines do just fine with no problems. If I take the left-hand (straight ahead), portion of the switch to go to the mine and if I am running an engine of which has three-axled trucks (such as an EMD), on it there are no problems either. - But. - If I am running my two axle trucked GP-40 then going right (onto the spur), is no problem either. But, if I decide to take the left-hand (main straight ahead), and go left it immediately jumps the track and derails as it goes over the frog split (the plastic “X” part of the switch). Of all the switches upon my layout, this is the only switch I seem to have trouble with, with that GP-40. Short of replacing the whole switch, does anybody know why this happens and why only on that one particular locomotive engine. Or can they even give me a clue as to why this happens and how to cure it? - Just asking. P.S. - All my switches are manually operated by hand.
Christie Brinkley. This is the best explanation of how to wire up a layout i have seen or read! Thanks so much Ron!! A very big help!
You are correct once again! But between you and me I could have put up a picture of her from a week ago and people would still know who she is. Glad you found the vid helpful :-)
@@classicmodeltrains LOL yes your are correct regarding Christie. I agree with Marc’s comments. This was the easiest video I have seen to understand not just DC vs DCC controls, but just wiring in general. It totally different to see how you approached wiring than reading or many others videos, very clear and understandable! Thanks again!
I totally agree! I can remember that after watching only once.
Recently became interested in trains and looking into the different scales, tracks, etc., to gain some good knowledge so I can make a good purchase. I had Lionel train sets growing up but I was much more interested in slot cars. This was back in the 60s and 70s. How I wish I held onto those items (along with my baseball cards) but I’m not alone. Anyway, this video popped up in my recommendations and it’s the first one from you. I’m 13 minutes in and I gotta say, you’re my kind of guy. I like your style and how you walked us through the DC/DCC wiring. I don’t fully understand what DCC gives you over DC, but I’m going to look into both and see which makes sense to me. I know DCC is newer, probably digital, and costs more. Not sure yet if I should just start with it but I’ll figure that out once I know what it can do vs DC. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks and that I’m looking forward to going through your content to see what I can learn. 👍
Thanks for following along and supporting my channel. All DCC adds is sound which becomes annoying after 15 minutes, and the ability to run more than 1 train at a time. If your just starting out it's better to cut your teeth with DC and learn wiring and track maintenance before hand. DCC is WAY HARDER to diagnose problems with than DC if you dont know what your doing.
Good info, thank you.
I subscribed a couple weeks ago and I'm binge watching all your videos.These are all great. I don't even have a train set. 🤣🤣
Thank you Jack for subbing and supporting my channel. Do you plan on getting some trains to model?
I’m very happy you made this video Ron! A lot of people have made countless videos on this subject for years. But I managed to understand this much better than most of those. Magazine articles only go so far into describing this process and I’ve have always been somewhat stupid with electronics and track wiring side of things. But now I have a pretty good idea of what I want to put on my module set up and tracks. I’ll need to find a good solution to breaking the track up and getting it to stay together and good electrical plugs and stuff. But I’m glad I understand this now.
A layout I bought some years ago was pretty much completed and had this exact system wired on it as well as so much more like a operational turn table I absolutely loved to use, it had a balloon loop and wired reverser, and just so much on a 13 1/2’ x 6 1/2’ sized layout. I got multiple pictures of it and wished I would have been able to keep it as it was a beautiful piece. But all good things came to an end and I certainly hope the new owner really loves it still. To my understanding it was taken to Utah and finished but uncertain as I lost contact with the new owner.
Again, quite an amazing video and I’m thankful for it. I’ll use it to reference back to. And another great installment I enjoy watching! Thank you so much Ron!
Thanks so much once again for your kind words Marc. Glad I could help out it a way. Sounds like a pretty nice and big layout you had awhile ago. Too bad you lost contact with the new owner. Maybe someday you will see it again
Hi Ron, this is Ron in Arizona. Really enjoy your videos, I just joined our local club here in Sun City West, AZ. Trying to learn as much as possible and you are my #1 guy. Keep up the good work and look forward to your next one. Adios...
Thanks for watching and commenting there Mr Ron!
Like your down to earth explanations of everything!.😊
Thank you 😊
Excellent video of wiring. Staggered joins to the buss wires are essential... nobody likes shorts! ⚡⚡⚡
Thanks Ron!
You bet!
Thank you for sharing. Very nice.👍
Thanks for visiting
I've watched a few videos on this subject, I found yours the easiest to understand by far. Thank you!
Thank you! A few Fellers have commented the exact same thing :-)
Those guys with the Barbie Jeeps are nuts! I love watching that.
Rednecks know how to have fun!!!
@@classicmodeltrains If me and my friends would have thought about doing this in the 70s and 80s....we had some steep hills around where I grew up. We probably would have done it with bog wheels, little red wagons and that thing called the green machine. Not sure how many of us would have made it to be an adult. Bad enough half of us thought we were Evel Knievel. LOL
@@matchboxcustomsandrestos Green Machines were awesome!!
Wonderful work. Your videos keep getting better and better!
Thank you very much!
I learn a lot watching you, I think this is my favorite channel.👍
Happy to hear that!
Hey, Ron, enjoy your channel ..... always something to learn. 😎
I really like that you are not trying to show track wiring with a pencil tip soldering iron and that you are using a soldering station to control your heat. I use a 1/8" chisel; have for 40 years. The higher heat lets me get in, get hot, get soldered and get out without melting ties. KUDOS for you choice of tip!!!!!
FWIW - I use "suitcase connectors" under for drop connections. No stripping, no soldering, no getting burned of ruined shirts, less than ½ the time per connection. Only "drawback" - in my experience, only one drop per connection.
Also, since my layout is in a 14' x 24' room and is around the wall, I bought a mechanics creeper that folds up into a recliner position so I'm not having to scoot around the floor under the layout.
And that is CHRISTIE 😜😜 you showed.
Hello Bill, Thanks for your kind words on my video's. Yup I agree with your soldering comments, Lots of heat, large tip, get in and get out :-). I work in the mechanic industry and the suitcase connectors are a big no-no. Plus for me, they cost more money than the little time it takes me to solder them. I like your creeper idea. I think I need one. Yup good ol Christie Brinkley.
Great video! Very clearly explained. Personally I use connectors under the layout because I hate soldering above my head. Nothing good can happen when the solder drops on you. LOL Looking forward to the video on the passenger car upgrades.
Thanks! Ive found if solder is dripping there is too much being applied. Got quite a few passenger sets restorations in the tube.
Fantastic video, Ron. The best I have ever viewed regarding wiring up drops, DC / DCC. Your layout is coming along wonderfully. 🚂
After this video, I can re-wire my own small layout and take the County mutual aid Fire Companies off of " standby alert of an impending General Alarm Blaze."
They'll be relived. 👈🤣🚒
Glad you enjoyed it. Love the Fire Companies reference :-)
That new layout is looking good! I realized I can adapt that DPDT switch for my American Flyer layout, but use it for AC or DC power, then I can run both AC or DC locomotives on the outside loop of track! With the price of copper these days, extension cords seems to be a great way to go for bus wiring.
Yup the DPDT would fit your project just fine. I'm always finding broken extension cords people toss out. Save money here or there :-)
You can run AC flyer trains on DC current. The action cars like the brake man caboose and walking brakman car will be very quiet. The Flyer motors were universal AC or DC but never run the DC locomotives on AC or bad things will happen.
This is correct. I have the outside loop of my layout set up for DC so I can run my 332 DC. The inside loop is AC because I found that some of the reversers don't operate as well on DC. Being able to switch just gives more flexibility. Oh also the walking brakeman car will not work on DC.
Beautiful! This is essentially my approach: cab control with two different power sources (analog / digital). For me, each insulated (plastic joiner) block has a DPDT switch. I solder jumper wires bridging all metal conducting rail-joiner junctions. For safety, I put small blocks in certain places as spacers to separate power sources to permit both on layout at same time with spacer blocks set to center (off) position, which I think is heresy to some. I can live with the risk of crossing power sources (possible via operator error). Thanks for posting.
Love your user name :-)
@@classicmodeltrains TY! Coming from you, with respect for your sense of humor, I take that as high praise! Long story, short, Traveling Wilburys were involved...
Great video and wiring instruction. I enjoyed watching, thanks for sharing! 😀👍
Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
Hey Ron. Congratulations on your “Shout Out”! Well deserved. Nice to be recognized. Great idea repurposing the 14 gauge wire and doorbell/thermostat wire. Keeps things neat and clean. This weeks model is the beautiful Christie Brinkley!
Thank you and you are correct!
Well explained. Awesome.
Thank you
What an absolutely amazing video! I am a newcomer in the hobby. Thank you for helping me understand this so I can start my layout wiring and thank you for helping keep this hobby alive!
You are so welcome!
I rewatched this great video because I will be rebuilding my layout and wiring it for both DC & DCC. Excellent demonstration.
Rebuilding is a lot of fun! Putting in the options you missed on the last layout, making it bigger and better!!!
YOU ARE THE MAN... This guy is sooooooooooooooo good at what he knows and does .. OH Man .. He tells it right out.... I love this DC wiring as its more of a challenge and is more exciting to do and achieve ...Love it and I love TYCO .. I dont care what they others say ,, Best loco I have is a MANTUA 2-8-2 Mikado .. Man that is a great simple down to earth engine with great pulling power and a simple 5 pole engine .... DC DC DC I love it
Wow, thanks!
Very interesting video Ron. I’ve learned a couple of tricks watching your work. The DC and DCC schemes are very education: you made them as simple as possible. Congratulations for another great video my friend!
Thanks Regis!
Great video Ron! This video will definitely help a lot of people who are not sure how to wire up a layout correctly. You crack me up with your comments, love your video's!!
Glad it was helpful and thanks!!
Brilliant from David in the UK👍
Thanks David in the U.K. Coming at ya from Montana, USA :-)
The amazing thing is, I remember a time when Model Railroader used to talk about you know, upgrading couplers, and doing work here and there and how to do DCC from DC the things that you’re doing now online I remember Montero having a articles about it.
Yes the hobby has really evolved
I’ve kinda been putting off wiring my layout.
Only for two reasons.
First: I’m kinda lazy, after working all day. When I get through the door at home, I usually just wanna vegatate and listen to videos and watch my locos pull some rolling stock around.
Second: I’ve been trying to figure out the easiest way to wire the thing up.
You have just shown me the easiest way!
So, CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES AND 16oz. WOOBLE POPS TO YOU!
Thanks dude!
YEA! Wobble Pops :-). Glad I was able to help a Feller out. It took me 3 weeks to get around to wiring it. It's just kind of a hassle getting up and down from the ground level.
Great job Ron. Lookin good.
Thanks 👍
I really like your videos...some of the most entertaining and informative videos on RUclips!
I appreciate that!
Very good job on this video!
Thank you!
Best wiring video i have seen to get me started. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Rick
Awesome video I've been an avid model train enthusiasts for most of my life and have always wanted to build a layout and because you simplify everything so the average person can understand I'll hopefully start building my layout thanks again for your videos
Its Time to start Tim. If you build it, they will come!! :-)
Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your channel - great content, excellent production values, and the humor is a real hoot. Looking forward to future videos...
Thank you for your kind words
I’m about half way into this project today. This video has been very very helpful. Can’t overstate how important it is to not remove the front truck. I put myself behind schedule with that oops. 😂it’s drying now. I think I’ll keep it fairly stock looking, but I can paint it up later if I want.
:-)
Very clever! Thanks for sharing and remember, Model Railroading is Fun!
Glad you enjoyed it John!
Thanks for the video . Awesom. You answered all my questions in the video. Thanks great video!!!!
Thanks for your kind words. Glad this Vid helped you out :-)
Fantastic sir, great job on the thoroughness for the wiring too. Also spotted quite the peach of a switcher there also. Good looking rs model also
Thank you very much!
Thank you. That was the easiest, and BEST explanations I've encountered. 😁🏆 Tried to super thanks, but...
You're welcome Kevin! Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
Love the classic models. :D Congrats on the shout-out and thanks for the wiring ideas.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
Hello from the UK, Ron. Top class video and explanation. This one really hit the spot. :-)
Hello Back from Montana, USA. Glad you enjoyed my Video
Nice job. That's Christy Brinkley.
Thanks and YUP!
Great tutorial on wiring, and I love how you put a little comedy in there to give people a chuckle too! Some of that plastic dip paint on insulation would make those connections tidy and quick.
Glad you enjoyed it! The connections are tidy and quick. No real need to insulate them. Nothing too short out on. Plus if it comes time to add another drop in that same area one could quickly solder in another one :-) This is a technique I learned from an Old Timer at the local Club here in town.
Thank you. Helped me to decide on dcc, in addition to my exiting dc "stuff".
And your repair/ maintenence videos help too.
Great to hear!
Looks Amazing!!
Thanks!
Very interesting and I will apply what I have learned.
Thanks Ian!
Great video! New subscriber. No regrets. Super entertaining and informative. Well done. -Mark
Welcome aboard Mark! Thanks for your kind words and your sub!!
Awesome. First video I seen of your layout. Nice job.
Thanks!
Good video and that’s Christie Brinkley
Thank you and you are correct!
I like that you are soldering the feeder to the main bus. A good solder joint will last forever. Great video. Thanks for sharing these tips. Stay safe - Larry
Thanks Larry! learning to solder is useful in many ways. Glad you enjoyed my vid 👍
This a good show really enjoying it and your channel very very informative thank you
Glad you enjoy it!
Excellent video with great information! Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video Ron! Thanks a heap for showing us how to do it.
Glad to help
Thanks for the outlet idea!
Your welcome!
Great video. I just recently discovered your channel. I enjoy your sense of humor while presenting the topic. Well done. You have a new follower here.
Thank you for your kind words and supporting my channel :-)
Very nice video! So helpful for me :)
Glad it was helpful!
excelent job , wonderfull channel , congratulations
Thanks so much :-)
Ron you made my day.
Thanks :-)
Great video 👌
Thanks 👍
Great job
Thanks :-)
Great vidio and tips,subbed1
Thank you for the new Sub!!
Well Said and Explained Ron.
Thank you :-)
great vide.... helped me a bunch
Right on!
You and I have the same throttles of NCE PowerCab and the powerful and mighty MRC Control Master 20! However, I use the Atlas selectors to create blocks on the layout to cut sections off. The selectors makes it easier for wiring and gives great flexibility in both analog (DC) and DCC.
Right on! I have no blocks because I can only pay attention to one train at a time.
Good stuff Ron, I'll be mostly following your lead for the wiring but no DC on mine. I've got a separate test track for that since I do pretty much the same thing you do.
Thanks!
Hi Ron, just came upon your channel with this nice video and have a few comments...
At 2:40 you said less than (
Greetings Charlie, Thanks for your compliments on my video. I do plan on installing blocks as you mentioned. DCC is so finicky on clean power I do not want to minimize my drops. One drop on every 36" flex track does not seem excessive to me. Terminal strips are expensive and suitcase connecters are the most evil thing created by mankind. I avoid them like the plague. Soldering is quite relaxing for me and is very inexpensive. Yup....Good Ol Christie (wolf whistle) Thanks for commenting :-)
Great video. cleared up a lot of confusion. Only had 1 question. I know if you are doing DC, you need to use insulated rail joiners between sections. If you are using DCC and a common power bus, do you need insulated rail joiners between sections that are connected to the common powered bus?
Thanks
Insulated rail joiners are for building "blocks" or separated circuits for your locomotive to run inside of if you wish to run multiple locomotives on the same layout using DC control. With DCC you can run multiple loco's on the same loop so ultimately you do not break your loop up into sections. BUT.....Fellers will have isolated staging or yards that are insulated from the whole layout so you can turn the power off to these specific tracks. If the layout is very large then Fellers will break it up into districts run by seperate power supplies and insulated from each other for ease of short circuit identification.
Great video sir👍🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🙋
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video very helpful
Thanks for watching Michael :-)
I like and understand your method for DCC and DC. Total sense. My question is this: Would it make sense to divide the track into blocks by making your drops coincide with blocks using insulated rail joiners so with DC you could still run two trains? That may complicate things by adding a bunch of DPDT switches to the DC side and how it would effect the DCC switch over. Your way is super easy for one train DC and multiple trains DCC. Thanks for the video !
Hello Keith. Your statement is very true and doable even with DCC. A lot of large DCC layout do have blocks in them but there mainly used for short out protection and ease of diagnostics. This layout is a point to point so I really can only run 1 loco at a time.
A good idea Ron, remove your Engines from the track when soldering. Just to be safe. Also, like John Banicki suggested. Do your underside wiring Before (turn your module upside down), lot easier to work on and less solder in your eye.
Greetings Lynn. This layout is not module based. there aint any loco's or usually cars on the layout when I'm wiring it up for the first time (again) Also I have found if you have solder dripping off the joint, there is too much solder being used. But thank you for sharing some good tips that are useful !! :-)
I enjoyed the video. Have you thought about using suitcase connectors to connect the feeds to the bus under the layout?
My layout is DC and has 13 blocks and 9 switches and only 4X8 The wire is 20 gauge. I’m pretty old and I’ve been toying with adding DCC to my layout but it might be too much work for me to do a complete rewire. Do you have blocks on your layout?
Suitcase connecters are the devil's spawn. Much cheaper and faster to solder. Guaranteed the connection won't fail from corrosion. I am running 12 gauge bus bar and 20 gauge drops. My main line has no blocks but the yard fingers will eventually have blocks to turn off the juice when something is parked in there. I can only pay attention to 1 train at a time so I have no need for blocks. You should not have to re-wire for DCC. Just leave all your blocks turned on. Down side is DCC is very finicky and difficult to trouble shoot. The learning curve is steep and frustrating. If you desire to learn it, it can be better than DC block control if you want to run more than one at a time. The sounds are neat but after awhile they get irritating and I end up turning off the sound. Thanks for your kind words on my Video Jim :-)
I use the snap together track. I like the option of rearranging things. Also, I have had luck cleaning my track with an eraser.
Hello John, yes it is fun re-arranging the layout. Keeps things fresh and interesting.
I only have a simple modular layout in my garage running DC. I think if you have a much more complex layout,then yes DCC would probably be best for you especially if you are running multiples and signals, crossings, lights all the bells and whistles (pun intended).
Yup! DC does keep it simple.
Hi Ron, I have watched a number of your videos, thank you. I'm getting ready to build my first layout (DC / DCC) and understood everything you said with the wiring, but I had only one question. You wired up the DPDT switch so either DC or DCC is supplying voltage to the tracks but in the end of the video you had two engines running at the same time, was that under DCC? Or did you have a DC and a DCC train running simultaneously? I was a little confused and maybe you cut the video in a way that led me to believe you had a DC and DCC at the same time.
Also, what do you do for power to buildings and accessories? Do you run a separate independent supply and a buss for that? Also, since I'm so new, what do you power your turnouts with, the DC/DCC controller or a separate supply?
Thanks
I can only run DC OR DCC. I cannot run both at the same time. I either had 2 DCC loco's running or 2 DC ones. Lighting and turnout power would come from separate buss lines and power supply correct My turnouts are manually operated with my finger. I do more modeling than operation so not a lot of switching is taking place
FYI, if you're soldering directly to the track pick up a pair of heat sink clamps, you can slap them on the rail and help protect the plastic ties from melting if you apply a bit too much heat.
Ive heard of Fellers doing that. I have my iron set to very hot, so I can get in there and solder fast. I don't have any problems with melted ties.
I like that wire stripper, where did you get that from, and what kind of wire stripper is it exactly? I want to get one exactly like that.
Its a Klein KATAPULT 11063W. I think I ordered it from Amazon. Or I picked it up at a Electrical construction supply house here in town.
Hi..Ralphy from Brooklyn NY here... bin chekin u out...like ur "keep it simple ways".. question: when i go out to home depot looking for the dp-dt switch, shud i b making sure of a certain amperage that the switch is designed for...Watchin u has encourged me to build it..jus curious about amperage concern when buying switch...Thx Ron😎👍
I got the switches from a local parts store. Yes look for a switch rated at 10 amps or higher. All metal construction
Hey Ron, thx for quick response....ralphy😎
hi ron, i appreciate the idea of running dual power...i have dc now and wanted to switch, i just didnt know if it was possible without a complete rewire
Glad I could help
Nice Pink Drill, Ron,lol! Great video, Thanks for sharing!
I found pink tools never grow legs and walk away :-)
Excellent.
Many thanks!
Do you have a switch you recommend? I have been wanting to run both DC and DCC for my son and this solves the issue.
A dual throw dual pole "DPDT" toggle? I got mine at a auto parts store. I asked for a nice one not a cheapy.
Hi Ron, I wanna hook up my control master 20 to the aristocraft walk around controller. I tried the conventional route and it doesn't work. Any tips how I could do it? Thanks I'm advance
Hello Ted, I am not familiar with a Aristocraft walk around controller so I cant help ya there. My CM 2.0 has its own walk around corded controller that's proprietary to the base.
If you made a DCC layout .... Do you still need insulators after turn outs like a DC layout?
I've never used insulators after turnouts. Unless it's in a yard and I want to park a locomotive. With DCC you can park a loco anywhere at anytime is I guess I would say no insulators needed
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
Is it a problem to wire a layout with aluminum wire that is sold for cheaper at Amazon then copper wire, and could you make a video about that?
12 or 14 gauge buss wire in copper is not very expensive. Never seen it in aluminum for that gauge size. Find old discarded extension cords and cut the outer jacket off and you have lots of good 14 gauge copper wire.
I put floors in my HO buildings. Made them stronger and you couldn't see the back door from the top floor windows. You could also do more detail inside if you wanted for the buildings that are close to the edge, so that the children can see things that look real.
I do plan on doing that. Takes a lot of time. all my roofs are not glued down so I can still work on the interiors.
Maybe use a spdt for your power switch hooked to the 110 outlet instead of 2 spst. Double protection to keep from supplying both sources at the same time
Pretty good idea!
Neat!! Your doing well
Thanks!
I am strictly a DC guy. DCC is way too expensive for an old retired guy with a fixed income. The switch is a double pole double throw. How much does it cost to get into DCC? Great tip for repurposing wire. Since I'm a Ham radio operator, I've repurposed house wiring (Romex) for ground wires and making antennae. When I had my old layout I used insulated rail joiners for setting up blocks which were controlled by a SPST switch. That way I could isolate different sections. Are your switches DCC friendly? I used to rewire switches to get power through the points. I just wish I'd made a schematic of how I wired them. Cheers from eastern TN
used DCC controllers run $75-$125. DCC no sound loco's can be picked up $35 and up. You can wire in a no sound DCC decoder for around $20 and up. My turnouts are DCC friendly yes.
What size solder should I use?
It depends on what your soldering. Smaller the diameter is better for small jobs. The stuff I was using on the drops is 1/64"
24ga feeders to code 83 rail . Thanks @@classicmodeltrains
ty
Thanks
Classic model Christie Brinkley!
Yup
Mmm Christie, creep From NZ
Whazzup Rob 😊
Greetings Cameron! Christie Brinkley. (shwing!!)
Hi Ron
Would love to see you do one on how the meters work and wired in
I have the same control set up ,but no meters
Thanks
that video has already been made. here's the link ruclips.net/video/pHHfx6OZr2M/видео.html
Thanks Ron I’m also using the control master 20
So cool now just to pick up some gauges
Thanks, love your videos keep them coming
I am new again to Dc or Dcc ...Now let me get this straight Dcc is for trains with whistles, talks or makes train noses is that right?
DC is nice and simple. no sounds and one train at a time operation. DCC has sound, multiple loco operation at the same time and are quirky Pain in the arse to diagnose when something goes wrong.
Right ...Thanks always @@classicmodeltrains
Yes found more to read on RUclips/amazon
2:40 that's a 'greater than' symbol.
2>1 6
On my N-Scale layout, I have a reversing loop of which loops around through a mine and back out again. At the beginning of this loop I have a right hand switch. The entrance to this loop from the mainline enters from the fixed end. Here is the problem. If I decide to take the right spur to go around the mine then there is no problem. All my engines do just fine with no problems. If I take the left-hand (straight ahead), portion of the switch to go to the mine and if I am running an engine of which has three-axled trucks (such as an EMD), on it there are no problems either. - But. - If I am running my two axle trucked GP-40 then going right (onto the spur), is no problem either. But, if I decide to take the left-hand (main straight ahead), and go left it immediately jumps the track and derails as it goes over the frog split (the plastic “X” part of the switch). Of all the switches upon my layout, this is the only switch I seem to have trouble with, with that GP-40. Short of replacing the whole switch, does anybody know why this happens and why only on that one particular locomotive engine. Or can they even give me a clue as to why this happens and how to cure it? - Just asking.
P.S. - All my switches are manually operated by hand.
I would just swap out that switch and see if that solves the problem.
Christie B. model of the week
She sure is a cutie!!
No DCC! I run my trains. I don't try to mimic switch yards and coupling sessions.
I don't run DCC either, but I have the layout set up for it so I can fix them,. I like the simple DC
...so you don't use either dcc or dc? Then how do you run your trains? Every railroad needs a yard or siding of some sort.
@@crsrdash-840b5 I prefer DC. I have the ability to run DCC
@@classicmodeltrains Me too.
Yea, I bet your strictly DC layouts have great sound. Right?