Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Getting started with DCC: A Beginner's Guide
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 авг 2024
- Buy the Hornby DCC Select: www.hattons.co.uk/stocklist/10... (Affiliate)
Click the timestamps below to skip ahead:
1:20 - The science of DCC
10:25 - Getting started with DCC
14:26 - Using the Hornby DCC Select
16:08 - Decoder CVs
20:10 - Using Hornby Railmaster
28:45 - Mixing DC and DCC
Thanks for watching!
Email: samstrains@outlook.com
Facebook: samstrains
Twitter: samstrains
This is a beginner's guide, and a good one at that. One year ago when i started, it was this video i found and i started to learn about the different types of controllers, and dcc. Thank you Sam, you are a legend.
Thanks so much - really appreciate it, glad this was some help!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I'm not into this hobby but as an IT professional I was just curious how they achieved individual control without radio signals, and this video was perfect at explaining. Thank you for the content!
It's called Modulated DC. It is a straight DC voltage, example 15V, and a digital signal is injected on it. Just like Power Over Ethernet.
BUS connection m8
I'm an electrician and got to say, this is a really accurate and no faff explanation! Thanks 👍
Mike that's very kind of you to say - really glad to have this verified by an actual electrician - cheers mate!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Well this blew my brain apart, scared me away from DCC, I'm sticking with DC
haha sorry about that - I went of on a bit of a tangent! It's very straight forward for the most part, if you can make use of it! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
15v AC is nothing compare to 240v AC XDDDD
I used to watch you when i was yonger Leokin video
I was not expecting to see you here
Patch Savage you don’t even know me fool
Congratulations on 26K subscribers Sam. Great demo on DC verses DCC. I have DCC so already knew the basics but you explained it for others in a fantastic way to understand, well done.
Thanks very much Tim - glad you thought it was simple to understand.... I was worried I'd gone in a bit too deep!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
If anyone is confused.
The dc part in DCC has nothing to do with DC power.
DC is short for "Direct Current". (As in the electrons in a wire only go in one direction to transmit power. Rather than alternating their direction (Which is what AC power does *(Alternating* current)))
DCC stands for *"Digital Command* Control". As you send *commands* via *digital* signals to *control* your trains. And as Sam says, it actually uses a type of AC power.
Now understand DC to DCC power controller
Sam - you are the best on the internet. So impressive your range of knowledge and how much effort you put into your channel!
Thank you. This is the kind of video I've been after to explain DCC. Absolutely cracking.
That's great to hear mate - really glad you liked this! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Yes!
Yes e= mc squared
The Hornby Select and the Bachmann EZ-command are both excellent and good value for what they are intended for - learning about and running your first DCC layout. I learned all the basics with them and not at all complicated. Quite happy with my TTs sound loco's on my select even though the number of functions is limited. I then progressed to more expensive controllers and to changing CV values and the like. I have known people jump straight in with expensive DCC kit and then get bogged down, complaining its all too complicated and they are going back to DC! I found the opposite. Having started with simple DCC stuff - all that DC hassle with isolating track and the like seems way complicated to me!
I agree - they're a nice cheap way to get started for sure! I do think it pays to start simple, while you get the bug!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
No one said there would be math!
Lol
haha I know - sorry about that! I did it all for you though ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Tribal Typhoon no one said there wouldn't be 😂
Actually that isn’t maths but physics.
Excellent Video! Forgive me for the intrusion, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you heard the talk about - Januke Henatalie Formula (google it)? It is a good one off product for mastering DCC model railroads minus the hard work. Ive heard some great things about it and my old buddy Taylor finally got cool success with it.
Kudos for the video content! Apologies for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you heard the talk about - Januke Henatalie Formula (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now)? It is an awesome one off guide for dominating DCC model railroads minus the normal expense. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my cooworker at last got great success with it.
Sam it's not always easy to explain things and the more complex the subject the harder it gets, I have to say that you certainly have the knack of making things easy to understand while not being too heavy going, well done.
That's very kind of you to say Barry - really glad I made some sense! :D
Cheers mate,
Sam :)
A very clear and helpful guide to DCC. I am considering building a brand new layout and rolling stock from scratch, 40 yrs from my last, so it has to be DCC going forward. Cheers
Thanks so much Mike - all the best with that mate! :D
Happy New Year - Sam :)
A very nice explanation of DC vs DCC Sam really good job!
I wish your video was around to explain the elink/Railmaster system back when I got mine. Spent ages working it out myself.
I got mine as part of the Western Master set because the whole set only cost about 15 pounds more than buying the controller and software separately.
120 quid approx for the whole set here in Australia was a steal. Brand new with a cosmetically damaged box (Sticky tape pulled off and took some of the picture with it)
Keep up the great work!
Hey Gerry, really glad you liked it! Yeah the E-link took me a while to figure out too - but let's be honest, the software isn't very nicely designed!! Yeah they are great value though, that's very true!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Awesome vid Sam. I've been trying to get into DCC for ages. This is really helpful. :D
Thanks Ocean - that's lovely to hear, glad it helped! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
This, this and this! Spent way too long for looking for more than "you connect this wire here and that wire there..." type videos. This is spectacular and much appreciated.
Thanks so much Jason, really glad it was some use for you!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Many thanks, have just come across this video and a superb guide. I'm 54 and looking to retire in 5 years, I've still got my original analogue train sets from when I was 8, they are in superb condition. Over the last few years have purchased several 125's, 225's and a couple of locomotives from Ebay. I was wondering how I used these with the new Digital and your video explained it really well. Many thanks
Perfect timing Sam as I'm back in the Hobby again after a year break. :)
That's great to hear Kieren - hope you enjoy yourself! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very helpful! I've always been confused about DCC and whether it's worth it. Thanks mate😊
That's great to hear mate - glad this answered a few of your queries! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
An easy to follow session Sam, and ideal for the beginner...I have tried DCC but as I'm operating continual circuit running, it just wasn't worth the extra expense and hassle . One of the other issues you mention for DC operation, was the loss of power when the loco gets too far from the controller, and that's something I must attend to on my layout which is about 15' square....Thanks as always....Regards...Bob
Thanks a lot Robert - agreed, if that's all you want to do, then DC is the best option!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I haven't been into model trains for some decades now and I'm just trying to get back in to it. BOY have we come a long way since back in my day!
This is my kind of science lesson! 😂
Great video Sam! Congratulations on 26,000 Subs!
haha! Glad you didn't mind the science lesson xD
Thanks very much mate! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Congrats on 27500subs and I'm in Germany and it's to complicated to explain sam
30,991 now
35,842 now
@@SamsTrains what track are you using can you link it
I’ve started to watch stuff on eBay now! Another good video and I have to say your audio is excellent - very clear.
That's good to hear - hope you find some good stuff! And thanks very much - that's very kind of you to say,
Cheers,
Sam :)
Excellent stuff Sam. Electronics is my background, but DCC is new to me. You explained it very well - thank you!
Fantastic job covering the basics of DCC, and your presentation method was very effective and digestible. Great video!
Many thanks mate, really glad to hear that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The video I've been looking for! For a numpty like me, this is a perfect video for my brain!
haha that's awesome - really glad this was handy for you! :D
Cheers mate,
Sam :)
@@SamsTrains best get ready to spend some money this weekend at the NEC
2:53 One for the Best Bits reel!
haha! Absolutely!! ;D
Hi Sam, that shot of the shunter dragging the poor steam engine wad hilarious! The dc track voltage drop point was well made. BobUK.
haha!! Glad you liked that Bob, lol! ;D
Appreciate the kind words mate,
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I'm hoping to make a DCC layout sometime. This is by far the best explanation on what and how it works. How to set up and how to use it. It's all fantastic. Thank you Sam :)
That sounds great - really glad you found this helpful, much appreciated! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
50:50 on dc v dcc
And 100% would like weathering services
Yeah - I still find that DC is more fun at times! :D
I agree - that'd be awesome! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
DCC has been around since 1991, so it's been around for quite a while now. I couldn't recommend the Select. It doesn't work with some US manufactured controllers. Its functions are very limited. Most importantly it can't reset decoders back to their default settings.
The standard Hornby decoder has a low stall current and three important CVs aren't supported. You can buy decoders with a better spec. for less.
The eLink software seems to be a bit glitchy and looks a bit complicated to set up.
I use the Roco/Fleischmann Z21. Only takes a couple of minutes to set up. Takes more time getting out of the box than getting it running. :-) From what I've seen, the interface for the Z21 is much easier to use than the eLink. You can have up to ten smartphones or tablets connected. Don't have to buy a separate licence for each either. The app. is free.
Yes, the Z21 is more expensive than the Hornby DCC controllers, but I think the extra cost is worth it. After all, you expect to be using it for years. A cheaper option is the white z21 (small z) which you often find split from sets. It's fine for H0 and 00, but I'd recommend the black Z21 for smaller gauges as the voltage output is adjustable.
It certainly has! That's fair enough on the select - however, I can recommend it for beginners, as I said!
The Railmaster software is now much better since I did a wipe on the PC - and I must disagree that it's complicated to set up - it was actually extremely easy. I don't doubt that the Z21 is much better, but at double the price of the E-link system, I think Hornby still win on value for money - even with the extra £10 for handheld!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
'There is quite a process of getting all the drivers installed.' There are no drivers to install with the Z21. No com ports to worry about. The Roco software isn't glitchy at all. The Elink may be cheaper, but I think the extra price is well worth it. Maybe you could get the Z21 or the z21 and do a comparison? :-)
Great guide video. Good audio quality, clear, concise and to the point. Thank you.
Appreciate your kind words Craig, many thanks!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
You should be a university lecturer Sam. Very concise and to the point. Many thanks.
Very educational video,
Sam the science teacher! :)
Thanks Ryan!
Your welcome, Congrats on 26k!🎉
Thanks Sam, I'm just getting into this DCC stuff, and you made it very clear (except for the maths) clicking subscribe now:)
haha sorry about the maths Ian, but appreciate your kind words, thanks a lot for subscribing!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Great video Sam. I have just finished building quite a large DC layout, but with new DCC ready locos and have installed a bus wire under the board, and droppers to the rails at periodic intervals. So, I think I am ready to convert to DCC and I am planning to buy a Gaugemaster Prodigy controller and then will get the chips added to my locos. I can’t wait.
That sounds excellent Stewart - I bet you get some good performance with that setup! Good luck with the rest! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
A fine introduction. Good examples of running issues. Some relevant electrical principles. Product discussion. Thank you. I can see that I made the right decision to stick with DC for my small and simple layout, but now I can see many advantages of DCC.
Thanks a lot Crow - glad you thought this was good! Yes DC is still viable - I use it most of the time! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Now this has definitely opened my mind, but at the moment I will stick with DC
That's good to hear mate - nothing wrong with DC though - I use it most of the time!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam, that was an interesting little tutorial. Great work.
Thanks Rob - glad it was interesting for you!
Cheers,
Sam :)
The old 1979 Hornby Zero One DCC system used 18 Volts AC in the track.
I bought Zero One DDC system in 1980 and the first thing I noticed was that on the giant layout I had at the time, the speeds of the locos was consistent anywhere on the layout, unlike when it was running on a DC system (Triang Hornby RP14 and 3 x circuit controllers).
I've been using Hornby's Zero One DCC system ever since.
That's very interesting Andy - yes it's quite impressive what a few extra volts can do! So you still use it today?! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Well done. Thank you. Other than cost and for very small layouts, why would anyone not use DCC these days?
Thanks a lot mate! Yeah it's very impressive isn't it? I suppose some like the challenge and simplicity of DC!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam! Which kind of Controller do I need when I want to run DCC Sound locos?
Hey Kamil, you'll need a DCC controller capable of activating functions - most of them can! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam haven’t been here for long time but I’m back
Oh and this is Joand so
Welcome Back Joand so - lovely to see you again! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thank you Sam for that supper video ,it was very informative and very Helpfull as i have been thinking about now using DCC on my layout .
Sam I have not been watching your channel for a while I've just came back amazing
Great to see you Jamie - thanks for coming back! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains i only have a small hornby track i wish i had yours
Thanks so much sam
This really helped with DCC
Many thanks,
Zain XD
No problem at all mate - really glad it helps you! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Sam'sTrains thanks for the reply XD
WAIT THAT'S REAL LIFE SPENCER
YES IT IS!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Finally, clear introduction to DCC. Thank you!
Excellent video, love your accent, very helpful in explaining the ins and outs of DC and DCC. Cheers back at you!
Hey Sam, great intro to DCC. I’m very familiar with control electronics but new to rail modelling, and I had a host of questions most of which you answered here. Thanks a lot, this has been _really_ helpful 😃
@
That's great to hear John, really glad this was some help! Hope you have fun! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very good explanatory video, thanks. You may know this and just mis-spoke but voltage does not ‘run through the tracks’. Current does.
A very good video but realistically if I was a beginner to the hobby I'd be a little confused with all the data being shown. I think perhaps this could be split down a little more to help new people to the hobby especially describing resistance to track and the Rail Master DCC functional workings. However, overall a very interesting good video thanks.
Hey Sam, hi from British Columbia. Thanks a bunch for sharing your knowledge with us, very well done! I'm an old Brit, 72, retired (I think!), got out the old Hornby 00 DC layout which I got shipped out here in 1983 and have spent many winters being a kid again! Got some real gems, Hornby Mallard, Scotsman, Calledonian, Lord of the Isles, GW Paniers, some Limas, and a bunch more. Over the years I've picked up several N American locos, Alleghenny, Challenger, Mallets. Thing is they're all DC and I've been toying with the idea of going DCC but switching everything over would be super expensive and maybe not do-able with many of the 40+ year old locos... Having just listened to your vid I've pretty well decided that I'd be way better off to start from scratch and build a separate DCC layout. Many thanks for helping me make this decision. Subd.
P.S... Is Hornby still in England or have they gone to China?
Hey Roger, thanks so much for the comment - great to hear you were able to get your train stuff all the way over there! Sounds great anyway - good luck with the DCC stuff, enjoy! :D
Yes Hornby have been in China since the 1990s, with mixed results! ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The products are made in China but designs and planning is done over here in the UK
Hi Roger You sound like my Grandpa who is 80 and trying to combine his older trains collection from Hornby with the new one. Have fun warmest regards
Thanks that is a really helpful video. Like Mark below, I am restarting the hobby. I think that I will stick with DC for now. All my locos and 3 controllers are all DC.
I love that scene with the pug wheels spinning, looks like she's trying to escape the clutches of the gronk!
Many thanks Sam this has been a great help to a DCC virgin 👍
That's a pleasure mate, glad it was some help to you!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Excellent explanation and review Sam. Id definitely recommend the Gaugemaster Express dcc controller unit. From D Rails this is £138 and is a better unit than Hornby's Elite at nearly double the price. It has a 2amp output so theoretically capable of running 10 locos. You have full cv programming that you dont get with the Hornby Select at nearly the same price. The Express doesnt run dcc points or signals out of the box but most people power these separately from the controller.
Thanks a lot mate - glad you liked that! Duly noted on the Gaugemaster - I've heard that their stuff is very good!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
well that gave me a better idea of what is happening to my trains. Being a novice and new to DCC i have decided to stick to my DC trains. Maybe better with DCC but a little complicated if you have say 2x DC and 2x DCC. Thanks for explaining what happens when building tracks. Much appreciated.
Excellent. I am planning dcc layout and this vid has been the easiest one I have seen for explanation, Thank you.
That sounds fantastic Graham - hope it all goes well for you!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very good video, clear and concise, good camera angles. Best part,,, no crap, or, any music. Hallelujah
haha appreciate it mate, thanks very much! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Opinion from another discipline: For original DC systems, talk to a neighborly electronics technician or engineer about using a "star" to distribute your DC effectively. I did a quick search just now. Other railroaders like yourself are using that approach. I envision grounding one track and sending DC to the other WITHOUT causing shorts in overlapping or crossing tracks. Good luck. Regards.
Well, an interesting video I can recommand for those who wants to have an oveview of what DCC can do. I already knows lots of things explained here becaus I had bought DCC systems by the past and used them on my N trains before switching to OO, but it is always a good thing to look back at basics from time to time, anb I can recommand your video for that.
When I deciced to drop N and choose OO instead some monthes ago, I had also decided first to go full DC but, after having counted the number of wires required for my 4 points station with 2 passing loops and a freight track to switch on and off for realism of operations, I had seen that DCC, anyway, was not as expensive as you might think first when you take into account all the possibilities, and the greatest ease of use.
Anyway, I had bet on the wrong horse by using an NCE throttle, based on pure personnal considerations, and I will buy instead a Digitrax system. Meanwhile, for a bery basic but evolutive system, I can also recommand the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express. I have the original model branded MRC bought straight from the USA via Walthers, and it is a good basic system I keep for programming, test and elementary operation on some of my layout projects.
In short, goos presentation, thanks for the good job done !
Thanks very much for that Oliver, appreciated! That's true - DCC is quite affordable in small doses - sounds good!!
Glad you enjoyed it mate,
Cheers,
Sam :)
To employ a Red Dwarf analogy here: "I was with you, all the way up to SIMPLY" LOL.
Coming late to the party but this is an excellent explanation of the electrical side of DCC vs DC. Much appreciated!
Very good tutorial. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and your detailed information. It's exactly what I was looking for. I have a bachmann layout that I purchased several years ago, it has a track voltage of 16 VAC, I couldn't figure out how my train was running on AC while I knew that it has a DC motor.
The train has an RC Circuit in that it's got a NP Capacitor across each rail mounted to the locomotive frame.
The locomotive is hardwired and has no DCC Card, therefore it is not addressable. You've ironed out alot of questions about the the use of DCC and AC powered DC motor combinations.
Best Regards,
Cheers Colby, glad this was some help to you - enjoy yourself! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hey, nice job! Best and simplest explanation yet. I'm just getting started and was not sure what way to go. I was leaning towards DCC, after watching your video, I'm going to go the DCC route. Very helpful Thank you!
Great video. I am a Ham radio guy who has had to learn about series and parallel circuits until it does my nut 😂
It makes perfect sense now after your brill description. Thanks so much Sam yet again for a fab video. I have dc and dcc partially built so everything you put up on RUclips helps so much 👍
Hi Scott! Yes it is very confusing to start with - but with a good diagram, and some practice, it gets more straight forward!
Glad you liked this mate - really pleased that it helped you! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I’m new to the hobby and am going to take the DCC route. Thank you for the amazing content! 🖤😈
Nice overview. I picked up quite a bit of info (I learned a lot). Your efforts are producing genuine value. Keep up the good works.
Thanks for sharing...
That's great to hear - really glad to be of use! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
wow...a wee bit over my head, but i get the jist of it. I dont plan on having an ultra big layout, maybe 3 trains running at once. That simple dcc PP and decoders look about right for me. Thanx for the explanation, i'm saving this vid for reference.
Good video on the differences between DDc and DC.
Thanks a lot John! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Very informative. Just getting into model railroading. Stay Safe & God Bless!!
Hi Sam, Greetings from the Southern Riverina, NSW Australia. BTW tomorrow 25/1/2019 they predict we are going to get 48C!!. To be honest Sam. Like many I was a firm DC follower through many Gauges. However I had been doing G scale for about 13 years, which I have now sold and gone to ON30. I converted all the G scale to DCC with Sound. Now with ON30, some Locos I've bought already have DCC/Sound. A few I have converted myself. Seriously all you need is a decent( I use a Variable Heat) Soldering iron with a fine tip. For those that don't know a basic motion only decoder simply requires you to seperate the L/R pickups from the motor. From the decoder 2 wires to the contacts, 2 to the motor, and 2 for the forward light, one being a common, and 2 to the rear light. Sound decoders are basically 2 wires to the contacts, and if not included 2 wires to a speaker. It is that simple. I would recommend DCC to anyone, it's simpler, easier, and you can make it what you want. Lenz started DCC, and most other systems have used the same technology to produce their own Systems. However DCC systems are pretty much interchangeable. I use my Lenz with many different makes of Decoder. I also use the MRC 520 for return loops. I went for Lenz because they set the standard that the NMRA use now. Personally I believe it is more sensible to buy a better DCC system to start with. My 11year old DCC is still fully compatible with DCC today. A set like the LH100 is an investment, no idea what they cost over there. I bought mine from the USA where it's a lot cheaper. You give up your warranty, but I don't know of anyone who has had a problem that requires a return. I have a Lenz XPA which allows me to use a Cordless house phone to Control both function and Sound. I have 3 handsets on the system. I have also added Components to enable me to use the PC for both Programming and Control. Later this year I plan to use a Camera, and the equipement I have to allow anyone in any Country to be able to control a train on my railway.. How you use your DCC is up to you. me personally, All points are either Peco Smart switch, and Caboose Hobbies Ground throws. They do one with Contacts, that enable you to switch a live frog, and or colour light signals. You can DCC the smart switch too, but I have'nt as yet, because I like a more hands on control. You can add what ever controls on point's or signals that you want. However each requires a decoder, but is all connected to the track. Power is 5 amps, 6Max at 12V. I follow the KISS method myself. I have currently 2 blocks. each about 110ft ( 110 ft being 1 scale mile in ON30) Admittedly I only have a single track, with intermittent stations, sidings and return Loops each end ( MRC520s) . My programming track is attached to the main station, both rail;s insulated and control by a Double pole, double throw switch. Once programed Locos can be driven directly out onto the line. Once you set the address on the programing track every decoder I have allows you to adjust CVs anywhere on the railway. One Block has the command station, the other an LV102, wired to the Command station, with it's own power supply controls the other block. Apart from that no other insulated sidings etc. You don't need them. I could spend hours talking about it. Basically if you have the skill to switch on your PC and watch Sam's Trains, then you will have no problems with DCC. I have a simple operation running 2/3 trains, but my system allows for 999 trains. THe MRC DCC system is seriously worth looking at, and is perhaps one of the cheapest set ups. Just remember it's a one off purchase. One system will last you a life time. ( you can convert 21pin to 8 pin NMRA plug with a simple adapter)
I'd better add, the leaf is because I get Medicinal MJ because I'm a Terminally ill. I have issues gaining weight, even eating fatty food and chocolate which is a problem as I'm insulin dependant. My life is way more complicated than any DCC system
Greetings to you too Peter, thanks for the comment! I'm sure many will find that useful!
Very sorry to hear about your condition though - I hope you're doing okay,
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
This was tremendously helpful Sam. Thank you!
Thanks so much for including the math and calculations - I’d always wondered about this - I never got too far into model engines coz it suddenly went over-my-head when I was an enthusiastic sprog. Good to get this overview. The one thing I didn’t get was why track resistance is a factor in a DC track but not in a DCC track. Is this due to the difference between resistance and impedance? DC vs A.C.?
My pleasure mate, glad it was useful for you! Thanks for the kind words,
Cheers,
Sam :)
After buying lots of DC locos, some “DCC-ready,” I finally bought my first DCC kit from Bachmann, the “Digital Commander.” It came with a very rudimentary starter DCC controller and 2 DCC-fitted locos, but with no sound, so I bought an additional Bachmann SantaFe GP40, fitted with DCC and Sound. Bachmann’s guidance for teaming up locos is to set them to the same address. Is that the practice to use, even with more advanced DCC systems?
Hello, Sam. Here in America, almost all engines are DCC ready or equipped. Also, one of these days, I'm going to buy a 2 rail O scale engine and convert it to 3 rail operation, because that is what is most common in America.
Yeah absolutely - I've noticed that too about the American stuff! Ooh sounds fantastic - good luck with that mate! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Question: Since you can set Acceleration and de-acceleration, can you also set the top speed so the train don’t derail on turns?
Yes I believe some decoders may allow that!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Brilliantly helpful, thankyou for making this 👍👍
0:03 at this timestamp sam's really putting out a roar! XD
Excellent video. Coming back into the hobby after some decades away and this was very helpful. You have another subscriber to your channel.
Sam this is brilliant! A great tutorial to encourage anybody to try DCC. Great job, thank you.
That's lovely to hear Michael - really glad you liked it! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
By the was what does "Bob's your Uncle" imply ?
I have used maerklin digital system whith a pc and it was
a bit fiddley due to i had to use a interface between the pc and the lay out.
I could not use a usb conection but the older 232 zero modem conector on the pc.
Thanks for this great tutorial video.
Keep up the good work 👍👍👍🇸🇪
I am planning to do a Model Railway Layout sometime in the future, for once I leave my parents house. I watch the videos like on how you can DCC or DC your layout, from various people and also how to service your locos and maintain your track etc. I don’t want it to be to fancy or expensive, just something that I want to do for myself. Only a large table sized layout or whatever.
Hi Lewis, that's great to hear - good luck with the layout when you get started - you're doing the right thing by doing a lot of research first! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Being an electrical numpty like me, you lost me in the first five minutes, after 10 minutes I was getting headache but thanks for this as I know it will be always DC for me, one train at a time..
haha sorry about that - I think I got too carried away - didn't explain it very well either! DC is underrated - I love it too! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
As a dcc user I appreciate this.
There's another effect in play regarding maintaining constant speed on DCC. The loco is getting a message from the controller saying 'run at this speed' so it does. It's not until the available power drops below what is needed due to track resistance - or too many trains on the same power circuit - that the speed will start to fall off, as Sam shows. There is a way round it of course , both for DC and DCC - run heavy gauge copper wires around the track to feed power 'droppers' to several places on the track. Nickel silver is not the best conductor of electricity, copper is much better. But such a seperate feed system really only works on a permanent layout. Don't use a ring main power feed approach for DCC - it can cause timing problems with the control signals when they arrive at the loco. BobUK.
Thanks again Bob - yes that's absolutely right, if you have the means of the nice thick copper strips, that's probably the best way to fix the issue!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Really good informative video, perfect for anyone getting started with DCC.
PS congratulations on reaching 26,000 subscribers
Al.
Thanks very much Al, you're very kind! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Can we convert DC locomotives to DCC?
Do you recomend chanhing the old motors to the new ones on DCC ready?
Can you show the fittment of a decoder?
I have old DC locomotives and I want to DCC my entire track.
Pedro
Yeah you certainly can! Sometimes it's worth replacing the motors, but many of them will work fine on DC! I've never done a decoder fitting video, but I could do! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have 6 locomotives from the early 2000s all have been converted to DCC and work fine
Hey Sam, great insight into DCC, but I'll be sticking with the auld Gauge masters I feel!!
Thanks Terry! That's fair enough - those are very good! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hi,
Very well explained.
Could you make a video series of Lego trains and latest innovations of micro controllers telling if there is some advantage or not.Lego Powerup hub receivers. Sbrick plus secuencies for locomotives. 4Dbricks track control and lately Pfxbrick combination of locomotive control and doc track.
Can these Phyton programable devices be able to make a more realistic model of a train station layout?
Thanks very much mate! That sounds interesting - though I don't know much about Lego to be honest with you!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very interesting. I had heard there was some problems with the Hornby Select, in that it is not NMRA compliant and will not work with some chips. The E-Link and Railmaster would be my choice for a new user as long as you have a computer of course. I bought a netbook purely for controlling my engines via Railmaster and it works very well. Seemed a bit 'cranky' at the setup when it selects 'COM ports', but once it is on I have found it almost perfect. The issues I have had have been purely 'unable to locate DCC controller'. Unplugging and plugging back in cures that. For someone with a left/right tendancy like me it is ideal as you do not have any arrow or things to press, but 'buttons' that say 'Forward' or 'Reverse. The downside to using the E-Link is that there is no emergency stop button on it, there is one you can click one on the Railmaster window.. The trouble is that emergency stop is always used in an emergency and slamming a physical emergency stop button is fractions of a second quicker than using the mouse to click on the computer screen.
Hi Ian,
Yes I did find that with my original select controller - though the new ones should have the updated firmware, which (I think, and hope) has corrected the issues! Yeah for sure - the Railmaster software does work very well - I'm pretty happy with it now, having reinstalled it! This is true - the lack of proper emergency stop is a huge oversight in my opinion!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Instead of the Hornby Select, I much prefer the Digitrax Zephyr. It is about the same price, but has all the features of a top-end DCC system and has dozens of upgrades. You can add many different throttles (wired and wireless), control all your accessories and turnouts with stationary decoders, and even use old DC power packs as cheap throttles for locomotives! It does require a bit more of a learning curve, but basic functions are super easy.
Thanks for sharing Brian, I'll have to give that one a try! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam, really needed the info at the end about running dcc on a dc controller.
My wife bought me the Prince of Wales p2 you reviewed recently in 2024 and it does not run in the dc controller :(
I only have the one dcc train so I thought, can I de-chip the train and you state it can be so I think that's the route vs buying a very expensive dcc controller for the one train.
Do you have a video on how to do this or do I just need to pull the chip out of the train?
Thanks, Chris
For the UK version you showed here seems simple user to get you up and running pretty quick.
I like the other add on option of hooking it to a computer which is pretty neat.
I wish something like this is easy to use in the USA but I am still looking around as of yet.
I have a number of older stuff non-DCC but want to covert it to DCC with the chips and buy a DCC system to control it all.
Neat set up so far what I have seen yet.
Hi Sam, My loco runs on 9v dc. For the hornby dcc decoder 15 volts AC is given to the track. How my loco will get 9volts? Could you please clarify. Thanks!
Hi Sam, thanks for this really helpful video. I am new to this and I feel like my knowledge of wiring must be vastly inferior to any other modeller because even the "beginner" tutorials mostly go over my head. I really appreciate you giving some background to the concept.
I do have one question and it might be extremely stupid! I would like to power my points using DCC, however I have such a poor grasp of the electrical side of things that I am really not confident about wiring it all up myself.
My question is, can I just connect a point motor to a piece of Hornby power track fitted next to the point, and that way it is wired up to the DCC controller and close enough to connect the point motor? I realise the point motor would need to the surface mounted but this is not a problem as the point in question would be behind a backscene.
If this would not work, could you possibly give a brief explanation as to why, to hopefully enhance my limited understanding! Many thanks, and apologies if this is a stupid question.
Judging by marklin’s digital points, I think you’ll be fine as long as you have a decoder fitted to the point itself. Now I don’t know about other manufacturers that well, but marklin makes decoders for points that can be used with their controllers and are connected straight to the track.Also,I’m not sure that a marklin decoder will work with a controller made by another company, but since their systems support other “protocols”, I think you’ll be fine if you chose to go with marklin’s decoders (keep in mind they are expensive though). I know my advice isn’t the best, so please take it with a grain of salt 😅
If I have mix of older DC engines and DCC, can I switch controller to DC and then run only DC engines on the model?
I guess if I would use DC engines when using a DCC controller that would make them go at high constant speed?
Am a bit new to there things 😊
Brilliant video.. I've got a select and 4 dcc trains numbered 1 to 4. Can I run them all simultaneously on my track???
Very well explained and a good pace. Thanks, Ronn
Thanks very much Ronn, really glad it was helpful to you! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)