Sam, set the speed from 28 speed steps to 128 speed steps. There’s a button at the bottom of the controller that reads “28/128” press it and you’ll get more control over acceleration and deceleration and a far smoother transition between speed steps. Also, NCE makes an interface with your computer, and it works a treat when programming your locos. It’s WAY easier than trying to do things manually.
@@ianjeffery3762 I have a Dynamis unit, so I'm not familiar with the Powercab. I didn't want the tether of a wire. Do you need to use a USB to get 128 speed steps with this unit?
There are only TWO types of anything - the BEST and all the rest. It's why Iv'e been an NCE Power Cab user for 8 years. And why Sam's Trains is my 'go to' resource for all things on rails. Thanks for ALL you do and share.
For what it is worth, NCE systems are rock solid durable in my experience. I know three guys who have NCE Powercab systems, all three systems I helped wire up for them. All three guys are elderly and their hands not as steady as they used to be. No matter how many times they drop the handheld, no matter how many times they short circuit their tracks, those NCE systems just keep working flawlessly.
I realise this video is nearly a year old, but just want to say how helpful it is. I bought a whole heap of (mostly second hand) railway stuff four years ago with retirement looming, but one of the new things I bought included this controller, which has been sitting in its box ever since. I was nervous about the complexities of setting up DCC, and you've just shown me how easy it will be. Looking forward to getting it up and running. Also, as a Kiwi, in Aotearoa New Zealand, I love your low-key and matter of fact presentation without the OTT style some go in for. Subscribed!
I’ve had a Power cab for over a year now and it’s brilliant. Completely agree with the review, it’s easy to use, totally reliable and flexible for layout functions. I’ve just started using it to control cobalt point motors and I still can’t believe how easy and convenient it is to use. It has certainly enhanced the usability of the layout and made it more fun to operate which as you say is entirely the point of the hobby.
Just purchased one. Very impressed, like you. Got three locos up and running within an hour or two. So yes. It a recommend. Also like you, had issues with the Hornby controllers even sending the Elite DCC back as it did not send power to the track - from new.
Hi Sam, glad you like the NCE controller. When I left the Hornby Select behind around 7 years ago, it was a natural choice, having so many recommendations from clubs and individuals. It says something that one of our local hobby shops in Perth, Western Australia would not support any Bachman DCC loco run using a Hornby system....Wow! I've recently got the computer USB interface that works well, and a second simpler handset so two of us can run trains at the same time. Cheers, Angus.
Congratulations on the new controller. I think you are really going to like this one.i ts not an intuitive system but the manual covers nearly everything, and is not hard to understand. This is the system I use and have found it to be quite robust. I'll warn you now, over time, it will help you find every single bad spot in your track work, especially running sound equipped locos, as the sound will cut out at every dead spot. This is a good thing though as it will help make your track work much better in the long run. You've got a good system there, enjoy the heck out of it.
Ive had the NCE Pro-cab for the last 14 years, ( basically the same as a Power cab just with a booster). Superb controller and never had an issue with any of it. What I do like is that you can use the controller with one hand (unlike some out there), leaving your other hand free for uncoupling etc.
@@SamsTrains Powercab & Powerpro are not new systems at all, but neither is the set of NMRA DCC standards that it works with. They are reliable & still sell well so NCE have felt no need to change it. This means you can plug your handset into somebody else's Powercab/Procab system without any issues & there are loads of modellers using them. This is when you'll need the curly cable included in the pack.
I too bought one of these and was very happy with it. I eventually bought the full Z21 so that I could have a seperate programming track, but really the z21 starter is more than adequate. I even linked it via WiFi to JMRI , just for the hell of it. z21 really is the bees knees.
The DCC controller is terrific for switching (shunting) and you can have meets between the switching and another locomotive even to the extent you can run two otherwise mis matched locomotives together provided you’re careful. Once you get comfortable with the unit there’s a lot you can do.
The club I'm a member of uses digitrax which I always found to be not user friendly, and when I got into dcc I started with a bachmann ez command because it was cheap and it sounds like it was a little more reliable that the hornby options but still pretty cheap and nasty. One of the other members of my club said they used NCE at home so I found the powercab after my ez command stopped working, that was about 4 years ago. It's been by far the best dcc system I've ever used, good quality, reliable and user friendly. Glad you can run your dcc locos again Sam!
Have you tried the'WFD-30 NCE CAB BUS WIFI INTERFACE' , it just plugs in to the powercab and sets up a wifi hub that allows control of trains with a mobile phone app. I use Enginedriver
I abandoned my Hornby system about a year and a half ago for the same reasons you did. I switched to the Gaugemaster Prodigy system which I find does everything I need it to. I usually program the acceleration and deceleration CVs on my locos to 0 as they are mostly small shunters and doing this helps to minimise how much they stall or cut out on on points or dirty track. Thanks for the wonderful video.
As someone now wanting to make the jump from DC and not knowing where to start, this video was perfection. Thanks Sam, you’ve hit the nail on the head as always 👍
Bought an NCE Powercab many years ago at my first train show (where it was on special). Never regretted it. The ability to reset errant decoders alone is worth the cost. It can also be kept current by purchasing firmware upgrade chips.
This has made a welcome addition to your list of very useful reviews. I purchased a NCE Power Cab Starter Kit ( It was actually bought in error because I didn't read the Ebay listing correctly, so I have a spare ProCab controller, but it won't go to waste, I have plans to expand to the layout) I haven't set-up my outfit yet because I have work to do on my track - I want to make sure I have no connection problems before I get started. I am pleased that NCE seems to be a user friendly system - I takes me a while to understand things (not thick just an age thing haha) Will you possibly think about do a few 'HOW TO's to help people like me to make more sense of DCC in a fairly simply way. Cheers George
All I can say about the DCC NCE Power Cab controller is that it is a pretty good controller to use Sam. Plus, it is easy to program anything in the new controller which you have.
You can't go wrong with the Power Cab. I bought mine in 2009 and it is still going strong. I added the RB02 and a wireless ProCab a few months later and love the wireless functionality. I have tried several other brands too, NCE is my favourite and most used. I boosted the power to 5 Amps with the Bachman DCC 5 amp Booster which is enough to run over a dozen trains at once. Have fun with your new equipment Sam. Great review.
You won't be disappointed with this Sam. Never had a problem with mine. For my shunting layout just use the Power Cab and for the large layout have upgraded to the SB5. Using the Power Cab just as a throttle with the SB5 system.
Sam, just to say that I called NCE in USA to find out at what level they recommend the need for the 5 amp power pack. Basically there is no limit on track length of number of accessories, the Power Cab will run 4 locos concurrently. Great company with only 10 employees, spoke to Ed, their technical guy, very helpful
Welcome to the NCE club Sam! A little fun thing I did was I changed the "option" button to allow me to get to F10-F28. That's what I found is the best setting for that button. Also if you wish to run bigger locos or even three big locos at once I recommend getting the NCE SB5. It gives up to 5 Amps of power and removes the need for the Power Cab to be plugged in at all times, that's more needed for a larger layout with the need for walking around. I needed the SB5 so I could run my MTH Big Boy and another loco as the Big Boy would suck up all allocated 1.5 amps of the Power Cab, that's with all lights and smoke turned on. I no longer have the engine but it still helps keep power to the track no problem. Have fun with the new throttle, James. :)
I never used E-Link so cannot compare. I did have a Select, but only for a few days before I wanted more & chose a Powercab. It was a major upgrade. Glad to hear you like the Powercab. It is a great starter system & very upgradeable. You can get add-ons for it (computer interface, more power, separate program track) so you only buy what you need & do not need to pay for anything you do not want. Nothing gets wasted & if you do end up with the 'do everything' system, you will not pay significantly more than what you would have done to buy the flagship system in the first place. A word of caution about the momentum button: I can't remember the detail but it does change some settings which will affect sounds on Loksound decoders. The 'coasting' sound on early Hornby (pre-TTS) Duchesses & Princesses was lost when using this. A factory reset & manual programming of acceleration/deceleration cured it. The manual is very detailed. Some would argue too detailed because many things are hard to find. The system is capable of so much that it needs a detailed manual to describe it all. I have seen it mentioned elsewhere that the Option button can be programmed to make functions 0-28 more easily accessible. The Option button's default is to set speed to 0. It can be set for a lot of things. These & how to change it are detailed in the manual. I find the time in the top right of the display rather useless. It can instead be made to show how much current the layout is drawing. I am sure you will find this a useful feature.
Very nice and watchable review - I didn't expect to be entertained by something this technical, but watched it right through to the end. Nice to look at all the things in the box - I do wish smartphones came with the sort of operating manual that this had! Looking over the comments, I'm struck by how helpful the modelling community are - lots of really useful tips.
haha thanks Rick - very glad to hear that! I agree - phone manufacturers assume everyone knows what they're doing already, but sometimes it's nice to have a manual! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You can't go far wrong with the NCE Power Cab. I started with that before moving on to the Power Pro. There are some issues with NCE that you might be interested in - not least that you need a circuit breaker. Lots of advantages. The NCE bus can easily provide for automation of signals, points and even controlling locos. I particularly like how conventional control panels can be wired into the NCE DCC system. It is also easy to use WiFi and radio throttles. You've got a great starter set which can so easily be upgraded. If you're at Ally Pally in March - feel free to come and chat / see / play with my NCE system on BNSF Horsethief Bridge. Word of warning though - do fit a circuit breaker. Kevin at Coastal DCC will advise (I use Tam Valley).
I heard good things about the Powercab too, so I bought one after using Hornby units and had a bad experience. The unit I bought new was faulty and the (well known) model shop was extremely patronising in their response, so I got my money back and cancelled all my pre-orders with them. The manager apologised to be fair and said he hoped he could win my custom back in the future. I bought the Gaugemaster Prodigy and it has been fab. I realise I was just unlucky but it turned out well for me with the Gaugemaster.
Had one of these for a few years now and I had to have it re-chipped to the latest spec. Sent it to NCE in America and they were brilliant. I have since purchased the SB5 which ups it to 5amps and allows you to control more trains. I think you will enjoy your experience. Frank
Hi Sam good vid and review as usual. After returning to the hobby after 30 years and going down the DC route, I got interested in DCC after visiting a local exhibition. I decided to take the plunge with half a dozen cheap decoders off eBay and a second hand Select. (The hard wiring of some old Triang /Hornby locos was fun and rewarding when they ran!). I became hooked on DCC, sold my Select and bought a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance. It does all that the NCE does and double heading is just the best fun. The great advantage of the Prodigy is of course that it's lifetime guarentee, if it fails Gaugemaster repair it FOC.
Hi Sam , definitely a great buy. Yes they are expensive but they don’t need replacement bits, you can expand at your will and when you have the funds. As an alternative, the Gaugemaster one looks exactly the same. But the one you have is great. I never went dcc because of the cost of chipping all the locomotives I had, but now they are gone, if I start again, I will start small and get a dcc controller like yours and chip the locomotives. Have fun , but remember that there are more modellers who don’t run dcc . That’s why your channel is so good. Keep the faith for non dcc, but enjoy DCC as an alternative. 🎉
Hi Sam, It's a pity that you had bad experiences with Hornby controllers. I have the Elite and I also use Railmaster software on my PC and on my iPad.I have had them from their introduction and I use any manufacturers' decoders. I have over 350 dcc powered locos both silent and with sound and I have never had any problems at all. I see from relevant forums that others have not been so lucky. In order to avoid problems I make sure that locomotives are properly run-in and serviced and then I programme the decoder off the locomotive using a test PCB (ESU- Profi-Pruftand). Careful Installation and insulation is also important. I have converted Ringfield motors to VCR recorder motors with hard-wired decoders with success and also split-chassis models ((a bit more complicated!). Ail have worked perfectly. with the Hornby system. Good track continuity is also vital to assist in reliable running. Keep up the good work.
Sam, might you ever consider building a new MRR by attaching horizontals and frame work to those angled yellow rafters where you still could have some benchwork run between and to behind them for staging or tunneling around; essentially the way you have those blue tool benches and vise, now. Why not put them elsewhere and instead have the layout up there.. It would be a tad narrower layout than the one you now have on the carpet..But, at least you could stand up and have trackage 4-5 feet high, above the floor.. You'd merely first attach 1x3 or 1x4 horizontals to the rafters to support vertical risers and 3/8" to 1/2" plywood, and/or foam to them for your base, your track design atop that... I say this as you are such a pleasant and knowledgeable host of your videos and so wanted to return a bit of an idea back at ya.. M, Los Angeles, Ca. PS. I'm sure by now you're completely enjoying your PowerCab.. I've same one.. Be a bit easy going on the speed wheel as bearing down on it can ruin the decoder (or whatever it is) on its shaft where you'll then need a new wheel from NCE. You still can run trains via the 4 buttons surrounding it. Also, the screws which hold the Cab shell (not crab shell !) together can easily strip the plastic threads..So don't over tighten them if you do open the shell...
I've been using the NCE PowerCab for 3 years and love it, being so intuitive to set up and configure on the fly. I run 3 HO locomotives concurrently without issue and create a Consist of several locos with ease. Before purchasing the NCE system, I considered Digitrax Zephyr but prefer the handset design and flexibility of the PowerCab to a fixed station controller.
As a Hornby Elite user, I'm more than tempted by this: my Hornby does weird things at times, and I've been getting fed up with my trains suddenly accelerating when I was trying to stop at a station. Your explanation was very good, thank you.
Decent overview here Sam, seen quite a few people use this controller and I think when I start getting into dcc this may be the controller I go for, another one I may go for is the gaugemaster prodigy as that for me would be a good beginners controller.
@@SamsTrains I have the NCE and recently purchased a Gaugemaster Prodigy 2 due to it's higher amperage. I ended up selling the Gaugemaster and buying a DCC Alpha booster for the NCE instead, the NCE is a much better user experience
I’ve been building my layout for the last year with Hornby products and it’s happily running on DC but I’m ready to switch to DCC before I expand it further. After looking at various controllers and not wanting to go with Hornby, I thought the NCE Power Cab was the way to go. Your video has convinced me to buy one. I am in Oz and I can pick one up for just under $400. Thanks Sam and your videos have been very helpful.
Hey Sam, guess you’ve discovered DCC properly (apologies for sounding patronising…not my intent). I’ve been DCC for 20 years and have Roco Z21 which is marvellous and might be worth you reviewing. NCE has a great reputation so you can’t go far wrong. Hornby kind of invented DCC with Zero 1 back in the late ‘70s but it was the German and American manufacturers who really made it happen including setting NMRA standards with which Hornby weren’t compatible when they relaunched their DCC offering. My journey with DCC started with Lenz (excellent) through Fleischmann Twin Centre to ESU Ecos arriving at app based Z21 which is so simple yet sophisticated it’s ridiculous. Enjoy NCE 😄
Hi Sam, I believe the Power Track you are using is a DC one using them for DCC can cause issues with some locos or Decoders. Although these do work most of the time the DCC power track has Green Buttons on the top so you might wanna give that some consideration. Cheers, Michael.
Hi Michael - those DC power tracks just have a capacitor in parallel with the two rails... and I've never known that to cause any problems! The capacitor is not necessary on DCC, but I can't imagine it causing any problems... and indeed it doesn't on this system! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, I am impressed by the capabilities of your DCC loco. I never invested in DCC as I felt the track based control solution was not the way to go and there seemed to be too many boxes and fiddly bits to get it to work - plus this is an area crying out for standards to apply and Hornby went their own way in the beginning which was a very poor decision. However Hornby have just announced HM7000 with train control via Bluetooth using an app on a phone. I believe this is the better design solution and matches real life more closely so I will be trying it out when it's available in the spring. Hopefully you will be able to review it as well to compare with the older traditional DCC control methods. Great video and very timely.
The Hornby elink is far more reliable now than it used to be. I still use it as my main DCC control. The software interface is very last century and a bit limiting but it's a darned good option at the price bracket. I'm setting up an arduino based system using DCC++EX to replace it in the longer term as it allows for far more flexibility. Great for tinkerers, you'd probably like it Sam, but not for out-of-the-box easy running. I have used NCE before at a local model rail club and they seem pretty bulletproof.
Sam, it's great to see a video on DCC from you. The NCE Power Cab was one of my two options for getting into DCC a couple of years ago and is very popular in the US. Due to personal taste (I prefer a knob for speed control) I went with a Digitrax Zepher which is another all-in-one starter solution. My layout is very small and is all shunting at low speeds. The DCC has made a world of difference for me, primarily due to improved slow speed operation, greatly reduced motor hum, and having full and dimmable headlights at all speeds. Sound is also nice, but is secondary for me. Again, thanks for this review. Cheers from Wisconsin!
If you ever want to go into the high end dcc shenanigans, I highly recommend ESU Loksound. I'm American but these German Decoders are the best of the best in terms of functionality and customization, due in large part to the optional Lokprogrammer
As luck would have it I recently bought one of these and then frightened myself by reading through the manual,so your overview was not only timely but very reassuring for this nervous ninny. I shall be in the shed tomorrow and plugging it in! Thanks Sam.
Yes, the NCE is a nice system, but I use the MRC Elite Wireless system (discontinued and no longer sold, unfortunately) and I like it very much. I prefer the MRC system because the speed control is a knob, not a thumbwheel or pushbuttons, and it's wireless out of the box.. A lot of people don't like MRC because it's proprietary, but I've had no problems because of that. But I'm sure you'll love your NCE controller -- it's a really well-made product, too! Though if I was gonna go with the NCE system, I'd have chosen the Pro Cab version rather than the Power Cab. The Power Cab is called that because the controller does everything including power the track. The Pro Cab system is a more flexible DCC system with a central control unit that powers the track, and the controllers all just communicate with the control unit.
I use the Gaugemaster Prodigy presently but it’s ten years old and I’m looking for a controller that will operate signals and points as well. I am seriously considering the Powercab as my next upgrade as it offers more options when operating a layout so thanks for a great review.
Hi Sam, for once I totally agree with your review. I have used a Powercab for years now, and can't fault it. A couple of things I would suggest though if your interested, firstly I always use mine set to 128 speed steps, it gives you much finer speed control. Also "EXPN" button shows you exactly what functions you have active at any one time. The packaging is very "1990's" as you said, it's an American system, say no more, but it's a disguise to stop the rest of the world seeing how great a system it really is..........One other thing, it's worth buying a USB interface and setting up your laptop with JMRI, which is free too, and allows you to change your decoder settings on the laptop instead of trying to use the NCE Powerface screen, it's just much easier. One last thing, I saw a comment here saying you need a 5A booster for a layout the size of yours, that's not strictly true, it all depends on the number of locos your running at any one time..............Two or three is fine with the Powercab as you have it, it's something like a 1.5A power output. I run three sound locos on my layout, which is bigger than yours with no issue. Great stuff and all the best Dave.
I thin this is one of your best video. I have been using the Powercab for about 2 years and find it great, i have added an additional cab so my grand son can operate with me. I was especially pleased in learning 2 major features from you video - tHANK YOU.
I’m relatively new to the hobby and having researched controllers purchased the NCE PowerCab and not regretted my choice. I not convinced the manual is that intuitive but have picked up a lot of its operation via RUclips (surprise surprise!). The other major benefit is that the NCE PowerCab is extremely compatible with a lot of the DCC Concept products (not least the Cobalt turnout motor). This ensures wiring is kept to a minimum and reduces complexity.
Sam, I have just spent a fortune on Z21 black. I àint tried it yet. Do you or any of ur followers recommend it, or have I just wasted my money. I hated the ELINK from hornby. Cheers. Keep the vids coming.
I have had the NCE PowerCab for about 9 years and never had any issues apart from the occasional broken wire from continual flexing of the cable at the handset end. I also have the cab06 additional control handset which makes running 2 trains at once a bit easier. One thing I do recommend is getting the 'auto sw' and having a separate section of track for programming your locomotives. The menu on the cab will guide you though using the auto sw instead of 'programming on the main'. It's far safer to do this than risk a reprogram of everything that is on your layout. You will hear the module click when activated. Another tip ir to buy a few handset holders and have them placed at strategic points around your layout so you can safely stow the powercab and save it from falling. There are loads of videos around on this system, it's reliable, easy to use and extremely popular. Check your cab is the current version which I believe is v1.3. If its an older version then it's an easy DIY upgrade, once again check RUclips.
I use a Digitrax Zephyr DCS52 controller. I use a WIFI add on and WIThrottle iPhone app to control the command station. It works very well and the iPhone interface shows lot of information. Recently I have installed Soundtraxx Blunami decoders in some locos and control them with the Blunami iPhone app. Both systems work together. Blunami uses the tracks only for power not commands. My club uses NCE for a very large N scale layout. I am happy you are satisfied with your new system.
Another great video. Thanks Sam. I have been resistant to move to DCC. But this video seems to be changing my mind. It will be interesting to see how it does in the long term and with any new DCC fitted engines which you might review. Thanks
One thing you can do, not sure if it was mentioned in the pamphlet, is that you can use multiple of those ethernet outlets around the layout hooked up with the remote and base unit so that way you can control the layout from multiple areas well only having to use one remote and when the remote is unplugged to move it to a different outlet. The engines will still run.
Hi Sam, Great video but I feel the need to defend Hornby (for once) I've been using the elink for a few years and have never had a problem with it. I do have a dedicated railway room mini pc that I don't use for much else but I find the elink and Railmaster are particularly good for programming the entire layout remotely, I construct programs that will set multiple trains off from different lines at individual times, stop and start at stations, change signals and points and make station announcements. My joy is programming my layout to operate fully automatically, which is what I think Railmaster is really for, not for just operating one or two locos. The graphical interface it uses by having the layout mapped on the computer screen also makes it very useful and the same when programming decoders (I have had a few different types and it has had no problem with any, I even had it operating DCC Concepts point motors long before it was supposed to recognise them) I have also used it with my phone and while this is a bit naff, it does do a good enough job. I previously was n gauge but am currently changing to 00, again Railmaster has provision for both. Keep up the good work Sam, maybe you should do some decoder reviews or possibly accessories like point motors?
Good vid Sam, I have one that I have had for years no issues. I got mine after watching you use the Hornby one. I was between the digi trax and this one but glad I went this way. It’s good for custom cv setting in different locomotives and getting crawls going.
Not a DCC user, but I sometimes think about going for it. From talking to exhibitors at model railway exhibitions on my visits to the UK, I got the impression that many very capable railway modellers like the NCE Power Cab.
Fabulous layout , just got one from a friend of mine using it with Murphy Models Irish Locos standard Lok Decoder. One loco has stopped responding but the NCE works quite well .
I’ve just recently bought the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express after dipping my toe in the DCC world with a Bachmann set. The E-Z controller was quite good but very limited. I also looked at getting the Powercab. Both the Powercab and Prodigy controllers seem to be low in stock everywhere. I managed to get my Prodigy from a local model shop. It was the only one left. It’s very easy to use. I managed to get two of my secondhand loco’s that had hardwired decoders in them working again just by reprogramming the CV8 setting. I guess you get what you pay for? You did very well getting yours for that price!
Congrats on entering the world of (enjoyable) DCC. I use Märklins MS2 controller which supports its native MFX protocol but also supports DCC protocol. Pros of the MS2/MS3: 1. A bigger screen with all menus and 8 functions clearly visible in full 2. Intuitive controls make for simple operation 3. Locos are accessible through a controller-side database and quick access list 4. It can be upgraded to the newer version through software which is continually updated 5. You can connect 2 of them togeather on the same power box, using the hub you can connect 10 of them for controlling up to 100 trains individually! 6. Multiple language availability through menu settings Cons of the MS2/MS3: 1. It supplies 18V to the track not making it suitable for all models or systems 2. The speed wheel also changes direction by pressing it, sometimes causing accidental stopping/reversing 3. No ability to change sound parameters 4. Emergency stop is directly above the speed wheel which can cause accidental power cutoff to the entire layout 5. A limited number of locos in the quick access list (10 on the MS2, 20 on the MS3) requiring frequent swapping from the database 6. Access of additional loco functions beond the default 8 require a convoluted button combination
Hi Sam, I have used two DCC controllers - a Fleischman Multimaus which I found incredibly difficult to use. Couldn't get more than one loco running, partly because I could not get it to change the loco address. Very user hostile. The second one uses a Raspberry Pi and is called PiSprog. This has been much better, and I have managed to reprogram a number of locos. Decoder support seems excellent. You can control locos from the computer screen or a smartphone or tablet. I still haven't managed to get more than one loco running at a time.
Wife bought me the BLI Greenbriar Express. I only had a DC layout. So I figured a Bachmann E-Z Command Plus as my first DCC. Still learning 2 weeks later. Still haven't figured out to get smoke working again. Added smoke fluid. Manual says F7 key. I tried the #7 on the green, blue, & red function settings. two function keys cause the locomotive to freak out. I'm guessing some kind of error. I should have bought the one you are featuring.
There are additional throttles with knobs. I recommend expanding with the SB5 then I only use the power cab for programming? Some are potentiometers so if you select another loco the speed will be applied. The encoder versions don't apply the speed instantly and respect the current speed of the loco. I've had one for ages and think it's great. You can reprogram all the buttons and actually add a "shift" key? It's only fault .... availability seems to be a struggle.
I have had exactly the same experience as Sam. I had a hornby select, which was prone to failure and then I had an élite which ultimately died but not before causing many problems - all related to software. I then bought an NCE Power cab and its mostly good - no real complaints. Except I have since added a cab5 - which does my head in as locos behave quite differently depending on which controller im using (example different running lights illuminate and the loco moves (or doesnt) differently too . I recommend a power supply upgrade to power cab to 5 amp.
Nice, you can run your sound-fitted steamies again. You've waited too long for this. However, do ensure that you take the time to get to know your gadget. The more you know about the different functions, the better you'll become at operating your sound-fitted steamies. I'm looking forward to seeing Maude running, I've missed her. Also, here's a tip about crawling with model steamies: on-track, run the model in for 30 minutes in each direction first. That's how you get a good crawl later.😉
Excellent video Sam. I also have one of these system and also love it. My advice to take it to the next level would be to get NCE's USB adapter and plug it into your PC and use JMRI. This will allow you to use your tablet and phone to control 4 trains at once using a JMRI based app. I use this for my N-scale layout, its very convenient.
Sam, Wow... Congratulations! (Note the square section on the back of the controller held in by screws... it's convertible to wireless.) I have the NCE Powercab and SB5... Ethernet cable can be bought in greater lengths... that'll allow you also to 'go the distance' instead of leashed at six to eight feet/two to three meters. I wanted to keep this comment simple... "Good Show!" John BC, Canada
Welcome back to the DCC land. I went for the Sig-naTrak Ace 2 which has a nice colour touch screen that shows plenty of information including the ability to name your locos, up to 9999 of them and 2024 accessories. They are now in the process of creating an upgraded version the Ace 3. It can also have up to 4 controller handsets plugged in plus a 5th control via its touch screen as well as a recall function via next and pre buttons.
I'm in the process of building my first end to end O gauge layout. Running a couple of shunting locos...if this works on O gauge it will suit me down to the ground....thanks for the video Sam...👍
I don't remember where I first saw the Powercab, but it's the only DCC controller I've used since I started my N scale layout a few years ago. I've not had many problems with it in that time besides a few wonky decoders. I have digitrax, TCS, NCE, and Bachmann decoders in my engines and I have almost 20 engines stored in the powercab. I have found that occasionally some of the decoders will stop working after a while of not using the engine, even if the lights and sound work, the motor wont go. Reprogramming always fixes it though, which I usually do by setting CV8 to 8 and then using Use Program Track to check the decoder and set the address (don't do this with more than one engine on track). Other than than that it's been great. Very fast short detection which usually doesn't require a restart, super quick at everything as you have shown, and just simple to get started with. Of course you can dig pretty deep into the settings and really customize things if you want to, even setting each individual CV value for all of your programmed engines without having to stop any operations (Even while that same engine is running!)
For the wiring things: you need 6 wires for the signal generator (i.e. running with the PowerCab as the only control unit), or 4 for additional controllers. What the mounting plate thing does is basically route the DCC wires from the handset to the tracks. The only issue with these is that the internal protocol is incompatible with the continental / NMRA standards (that do use the same pin setup and so on)
Can recommend picking up a budget RJ crimping kit with cable tester for repairing or making up new 6 wire PowerCab leads. Can cost as little as buying the replacement cable new.
Glad you like the Power Cab! I have one for the handful of DCC locomotives I have but my layout is still very much under construction with no track laid yet. I can’t wait to use it again! The first few times we tried it out, it was fantastic.
Hi Sam, thank you for this hands-on review of the Power Cab. Now that you are back into reviewing DCC systems, have you considered the Digikeijs DR5000 controller? I've been using it for a few years now and I am quite happy with it. Yes, it is more on the geeky side to do the initial set up (you need to plug it into your computer and an Internet connection), but once done, it can be used as a standalone controller. It has it's own built in Wifi router, so you can control your trains with your phone/tablet through the (free) Roco Z21 app. You can include pictures of your locomotives, so you do not have to remember each address, and all the functions are right on front of you through clear icons. When you have friends over, they can also connect to your controller and run the trains from their own phone/tablet. Keep up the nice videos! Thank you
I’ve been struggling with a Bachmann starter set controller, and been considering this one. Now I will buy one from TrainWorld at USD$195. Thanks for reviewing this!
I believe the decoder is an offer from dcc concepts if you get it direct from them, I recently went from hornby controllers to Power Cab and must say it’s a world of difference, be wary to pay attention which address you’ve activated long or short… spent a long time testing track and trains to find out I just needed to use the correct address
Changing points and signals is possible too with the power cab and the macro facility is brilliant for route setting. Had mine for ten years and most happy with it.
granted its more complicated..but you want to look into a Z21 DCC control system..its hornby elite but with decent engineering behind and the option to use a handset similar to a powercab
Sam I have used the NCE system since 2001 and have had no problems. I have two Power pro's and a number of Power Cabs and would certainly recommend it to anyone.
I had a elite that was given to me about 13 months ago then I was just running trains and everything just stopped and the controller stopped responding I unplugged it and unplugged all the wires to track and it showed error and my nce powercab arrived a few days ago no faults at all with it it’s great.
My experience of DCC has mostly been with the Hornby Select, and it does the job, but barely. I’m really tied about what to switch to, because I’d like the option of using a computer interface, especially for any later automation etc, but not be forced to use it all the time. Part of me likes the Z21 or Digikeijs, which seem to give that option. I wasn’t convinced by the look of the NCE.
I switched from Hornby Elite to the Z21 a few years ago and have not regretted the decision. The ability to use iPad and iPhones for control is brilliant. Function control is so straightforward and the layout room can make quite a racket when running 3 or more sound fitted locos.
Hi Sam, now you need to demonstrate running double headers and driving locos up to couple with other locos on the same track.... all things you cant do as well with DC. It would also be great to see if there is any difference in the control of some locos between DC and DCC, where you reviewed the crawl to be poor. I have a Lenz system and I would say it is equally good as the Power Cab, similar to use, the handset is a little smaller with Lenz with a separate box for the power controller, there is a handset variant with a knob on it. Regards Andrew
Consider this…. The design of NCE was so advanced compared to everything else back in the 90s that it still holds up today! Things like advanced consisting and programming on the main and Duplex radio communications have all been there from the start! The big fad now is WiFi throttles, but as you experienced with the Hornby decoders, WiFi introduces all the problems with bandwidth in your home to your trains. I much prefer the command going from my hand to my command station to my train. Quick with little chance of confusion and delay… 😉
Sam, set the speed from 28 speed steps to 128 speed steps. There’s a button at the bottom of the controller that reads “28/128” press it and you’ll get more control over acceleration and deceleration and a far smoother transition between speed steps. Also, NCE makes an interface with your computer, and it works a treat when programming your locos. It’s WAY easier than trying to do things manually.
Yeah he definitely needs the 128 speed setting active
@@Decrepit_biker if you can find a usb interface for sale in the uk 😞
@@ianjeffery3762 I have a Dynamis unit, so I'm not familiar with the Powercab. I didn't want the tether of a wire.
Do you need to use a USB to get 128 speed steps with this unit?
@@Decrepit_biker No. The USB interface is for using your computer to control the system.
Thanks Owen - yes I've been doing that and it is much better! I'll have to try this via PC too, that does sound great! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
There are only TWO types of anything - the BEST and all the rest. It's why Iv'e been an NCE Power Cab user for 8 years. And why Sam's Trains is my 'go to' resource for all things on rails. Thanks for ALL you do and share.
For what it is worth, NCE systems are rock solid durable in my experience. I know three guys who have NCE Powercab systems, all three systems I helped wire up for them. All three guys are elderly and their hands not as steady as they used to be. No matter how many times they drop the handheld, no matter how many times they short circuit their tracks, those NCE systems just keep working flawlessly.
I realise this video is nearly a year old, but just want to say how helpful it is. I bought a whole heap of (mostly second hand) railway stuff four years ago with retirement looming, but one of the new things I bought included this controller, which has been sitting in its box ever since. I was nervous about the complexities of setting up DCC, and you've just shown me how easy it will be. Looking forward to getting it up and running. Also, as a Kiwi, in Aotearoa New Zealand, I love your low-key and matter of fact presentation without the OTT style some go in for. Subscribed!
I’ve had a Power cab for over a year now and it’s brilliant. Completely agree with the review, it’s easy to use, totally reliable and flexible for layout functions. I’ve just started using it to control cobalt point motors and I still can’t believe how easy and convenient it is to use. It has certainly enhanced the usability of the layout and made it more fun to operate which as you say is entirely the point of the hobby.
Thanks Callum - yeah really good bit of kit for the price isn't it? Very very convenient!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Just purchased one. Very impressed, like you. Got three locos up and running within an hour or two. So yes. It a recommend. Also like you, had issues with the Hornby controllers even sending the Elite DCC back as it did not send power to the track - from new.
Hi Sam, glad you like the NCE controller. When I left the Hornby Select behind around 7 years ago, it was a natural choice, having so many recommendations from clubs and individuals. It says something that one of our local hobby shops in Perth, Western Australia would not support any Bachman DCC loco run using a Hornby system....Wow! I've recently got the computer USB interface that works well, and a second simpler handset so two of us can run trains at the same time.
Cheers, Angus.
Congratulations on the new controller. I think you are really going to like this one.i ts not an intuitive system but the manual covers nearly everything, and is not hard to understand. This is the system I use and have found it to be quite robust. I'll warn you now, over time, it will help you find every single bad spot in your track work, especially running sound equipped locos, as the sound will cut out at every dead spot. This is a good thing though as it will help make your track work much better in the long run. You've got a good system there, enjoy the heck out of it.
Ive had the NCE Pro-cab for the last 14 years, ( basically the same as a Power cab just with a booster). Superb controller and never had an issue with any of it. What I do like is that you can use the controller with one hand (unlike some out there), leaving your other hand free for uncoupling etc.
Blimey they've been around a while then! That's true - you totally can use it with one hand!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Powercab & Powerpro are not new systems at all, but neither is the set of NMRA DCC standards that it works with. They are reliable & still sell well so NCE have felt no need to change it.
This means you can plug your handset into somebody else's Powercab/Procab system without any issues & there are loads of modellers using them. This is when you'll need the curly cable included in the pack.
I use the "Z21 Start" with "Muilltimaus" from Roco, amazing control+central
I too bought one of these and was very happy with it. I eventually bought the full Z21 so that I could have a seperate programming track, but really the z21 starter is more than adequate. I even linked it via WiFi to JMRI , just for the hell of it. z21 really is the bees knees.
The DCC controller is terrific for switching (shunting) and you can have meets between the switching and another locomotive even to the extent you can run two otherwise mis matched locomotives together provided you’re careful. Once you get comfortable with the unit there’s a lot you can do.
Thanks a lot for sharing - yes I was looking through the manual - quite a lot of cool stuff you can do with it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The club I'm a member of uses digitrax which I always found to be not user friendly, and when I got into dcc I started with a bachmann ez command because it was cheap and it sounds like it was a little more reliable that the hornby options but still pretty cheap and nasty. One of the other members of my club said they used NCE at home so I found the powercab after my ez command stopped working, that was about 4 years ago. It's been by far the best dcc system I've ever used, good quality, reliable and user friendly. Glad you can run your dcc locos again Sam!
Have you tried the'WFD-30 NCE CAB BUS WIFI INTERFACE' , it just plugs in to the powercab and sets up a wifi hub that allows control of trains with a mobile phone app. I use Enginedriver
I abandoned my Hornby system about a year and a half ago for the same reasons you did.
I switched to the Gaugemaster Prodigy system which I find does everything I need it to.
I usually program the acceleration and deceleration CVs on my locos to 0 as they are mostly small shunters and doing this helps to minimise how much they stall or cut out on on points or dirty track. Thanks for the wonderful video.
As someone now wanting to make the jump from DC and not knowing where to start, this video was perfection. Thanks Sam, you’ve hit the nail on the head as always 👍
Bought an NCE Powercab many years ago at my first train show (where it was on special). Never regretted it. The ability to reset errant decoders alone is worth the cost. It can also be kept current by purchasing firmware upgrade chips.
This has made a welcome addition to your list of very useful reviews. I purchased a NCE Power Cab Starter Kit ( It was actually bought in error because I didn't read the Ebay listing correctly, so I have a spare ProCab controller, but it won't go to waste, I have plans to expand to the layout) I haven't set-up my outfit yet because I have work to do on my track - I want to make sure I have no connection problems before I get started. I am pleased that NCE seems to be a user friendly system - I takes me a while to understand things (not thick just an age thing haha) Will you possibly think about do a few 'HOW TO's to help people like me to make more sense of DCC in a fairly simply way. Cheers George
All I can say about the DCC NCE Power Cab controller is that it is a pretty good controller to use Sam. Plus, it is easy to program anything in the new controller which you have.
Yes it certainly is - to change CVs was very easy when I tried it, for sure!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You can't go wrong with the Power Cab. I bought mine in 2009 and it is still going strong. I added the RB02 and a wireless ProCab a few months later and love the wireless functionality. I have tried several other brands too, NCE is my favourite and most used.
I boosted the power to 5 Amps with the Bachman DCC 5 amp Booster which is enough to run over a dozen trains at once.
Have fun with your new equipment Sam. Great review.
You won't be disappointed with this Sam. Never had a problem with mine. For my shunting layout just use the Power Cab and for the large layout have upgraded to the SB5. Using the Power Cab just as a throttle with the SB5 system.
Thanks Ainsty - definitely not disappointed, it's been perfect right from the start... never had an issue yet!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam, just to say that I called NCE in USA to find out at what level they recommend the need for the 5 amp power pack.
Basically there is no limit on track length of number of accessories, the Power Cab will run 4 locos concurrently.
Great company with only 10 employees, spoke to Ed, their technical guy, very helpful
I have had one of these for about 9 years. It’s brilliant, intuitive and has never missed a beat. Simply the best value for money around.
Exciting to see you get a proper dcc controller, can’t wait to see more dcc videos
Thanks David! Yes this will allow me to review more DCC locos now :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Welcome to the NCE club Sam!
A little fun thing I did was I changed the "option" button to allow me to get to F10-F28. That's what I found is the best setting for that button.
Also if you wish to run bigger locos or even three big locos at once I recommend getting the NCE SB5. It gives up to 5 Amps of power and removes the need for the Power Cab to be plugged in at all times, that's more needed for a larger layout with the need for walking around. I needed the SB5 so I could run my MTH Big Boy and another loco as the Big Boy would suck up all allocated 1.5 amps of the Power Cab, that's with all lights and smoke turned on. I no longer have the engine but it still helps keep power to the track no problem.
Have fun with the new throttle, James. :)
I never used E-Link so cannot compare. I did have a Select, but only for a few days before I wanted more & chose a Powercab. It was a major upgrade.
Glad to hear you like the Powercab. It is a great starter system & very upgradeable. You can get add-ons for it (computer interface, more power, separate program track) so you only buy what you need & do not need to pay for anything you do not want. Nothing gets wasted & if you do end up with the 'do everything' system, you will not pay significantly more than what you would have done to buy the flagship system in the first place.
A word of caution about the momentum button: I can't remember the detail but it does change some settings which will affect sounds on Loksound decoders. The 'coasting' sound on early Hornby (pre-TTS) Duchesses & Princesses was lost when using this. A factory reset & manual programming of acceleration/deceleration cured it.
The manual is very detailed. Some would argue too detailed because many things are hard to find. The system is capable of so much that it needs a detailed manual to describe it all.
I have seen it mentioned elsewhere that the Option button can be programmed to make functions 0-28 more easily accessible. The Option button's default is to set speed to 0. It can be set for a lot of things. These & how to change it are detailed in the manual.
I find the time in the top right of the display rather useless. It can instead be made to show how much current the layout is drawing. I am sure you will find this a useful feature.
Very nice and watchable review - I didn't expect to be entertained by something this technical, but watched it right through to the end. Nice to look at all the things in the box - I do wish smartphones came with the sort of operating manual that this had! Looking over the comments, I'm struck by how helpful the modelling community are - lots of really useful tips.
haha thanks Rick - very glad to hear that! I agree - phone manufacturers assume everyone knows what they're doing already, but sometimes it's nice to have a manual!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You can't go far wrong with the NCE Power Cab. I started with that before moving on to the Power Pro. There are some issues with NCE that you might be interested in - not least that you need a circuit breaker. Lots of advantages. The NCE bus can easily provide for automation of signals, points and even controlling locos. I particularly like how conventional control panels can be wired into the NCE DCC system. It is also easy to use WiFi and radio throttles. You've got a great starter set which can so easily be upgraded. If you're at Ally Pally in March - feel free to come and chat / see / play with my NCE system on BNSF Horsethief Bridge. Word of warning though - do fit a circuit breaker. Kevin at Coastal DCC will advise (I use Tam Valley).
Some say if you plug the coiled cable into your home phone line you can speak directly to the fat controller.
I heard good things about the Powercab too, so I bought one after using Hornby units and had a bad experience. The unit I bought new was faulty and the (well known) model shop was extremely patronising in their response, so I got my money back and cancelled all my pre-orders with them. The manager apologised to be fair and said he hoped he could win my custom back in the future. I bought the Gaugemaster Prodigy and it has been fab. I realise I was just unlucky but it turned out well for me with the Gaugemaster.
Had one of these for a few years now and I had to have it re-chipped to the latest spec. Sent it to NCE in America and they were brilliant. I have since purchased the SB5 which ups it to 5amps and allows you to control more trains. I think you will enjoy your experience. Frank
Hi Sam good vid and review as usual. After returning to the hobby after 30 years and going down the DC route, I got interested in DCC after visiting a local exhibition. I decided to take the plunge with half a dozen cheap decoders off eBay and a second hand Select. (The hard wiring of some old Triang /Hornby locos was fun and rewarding when they ran!). I became hooked on DCC, sold my Select and bought a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance. It does all that the NCE does and double heading is just the best fun. The great advantage of the Prodigy is of course that it's lifetime guarentee, if it fails Gaugemaster repair it FOC.
Thanks for this. I had a Bachmann EZ Command which lasted six months and your video is great for choosing a new controller that is not Bachmann.
Hi Sam , definitely a great buy. Yes they are expensive but they don’t need replacement bits, you can expand at your will and when you have the funds. As an alternative, the Gaugemaster one looks exactly the same. But the one you have is great. I never went dcc because of the cost of chipping all the locomotives I had, but now they are gone, if I start again, I will start small and get a dcc controller like yours and chip the locomotives. Have fun , but remember that there are more modellers who don’t run dcc . That’s why your channel is so good. Keep the faith for non dcc, but enjoy DCC as an alternative. 🎉
Hi Sam, It's a pity that you had bad experiences with Hornby controllers. I have the Elite and I also use Railmaster software on my PC and on my iPad.I have had them from their introduction and I use any manufacturers' decoders. I have over 350 dcc powered locos both silent and with sound and I have never had any problems at all. I see from relevant forums that others have not been so lucky. In order to avoid problems I make sure that locomotives are properly run-in and serviced and then I programme the decoder off the locomotive using a test PCB (ESU- Profi-Pruftand). Careful Installation and insulation is also important. I have converted Ringfield motors to VCR recorder motors with hard-wired decoders with success and also split-chassis models ((a bit more complicated!). Ail have worked perfectly. with the Hornby system. Good track continuity is also vital to assist in reliable running. Keep up the good work.
I totally agree with you.,
Sam,
might you ever consider building a new MRR by attaching horizontals and frame work to those angled yellow rafters where you still could have some benchwork run between and to behind them for staging or tunneling around; essentially the way you have those blue tool benches and vise, now. Why not put them elsewhere and instead have the layout up there..
It would be a tad narrower layout than the one you now have on the carpet..But, at least you could stand up and have trackage 4-5 feet high, above the floor..
You'd merely first attach 1x3 or 1x4 horizontals to the rafters to support vertical risers and 3/8" to 1/2" plywood, and/or foam to them for your base, your track design atop that...
I say this as you are such a pleasant and knowledgeable host of your videos and so wanted to return a bit of an idea back at ya..
M, Los Angeles, Ca.
PS.
I'm sure by now you're completely enjoying your PowerCab.. I've same one..
Be a bit easy going on the speed wheel as bearing down on it can ruin the decoder (or whatever it is) on its shaft where you'll then need a new wheel from NCE. You still can run trains via the 4 buttons surrounding it. Also, the screws which hold the Cab shell (not crab shell !) together can easily strip the plastic threads..So don't over tighten them if you do open the shell...
I've been using the NCE PowerCab for 3 years and love it, being so intuitive to set up and configure on the fly. I run 3 HO locomotives concurrently without issue and create a Consist of several locos with ease. Before purchasing the NCE system, I considered Digitrax Zephyr but prefer the handset design and flexibility of the PowerCab to a fixed station controller.
As a Hornby Elite user, I'm more than tempted by this: my Hornby does weird things at times, and I've been getting fed up with my trains suddenly accelerating when I was trying to stop at a station. Your explanation was very good, thank you.
I love my NCE gear, and am looking into getting a Wifitrax panel to add wifi throttles...
Decent overview here Sam, seen quite a few people use this controller and I think when I start getting into dcc this may be the controller I go for, another one I may go for is the gaugemaster prodigy as that for me would be a good beginners controller.
Thanks a lot David - it was a toss-up for me between this and the Gaugemaster, which I know is also good!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The Prodigy is a great system too, you wouldn't be disappointed with it.
@@SamsTrains I have the NCE and recently purchased a Gaugemaster Prodigy 2 due to it's higher amperage. I ended up selling the Gaugemaster and buying a DCC Alpha booster for the NCE instead, the NCE is a much better user experience
I’ve been building my layout for the last year with Hornby products and it’s happily running on DC but I’m ready to switch to DCC before I expand it further. After looking at various controllers and not wanting to go with Hornby, I thought the NCE Power Cab was the way to go. Your video has convinced me to buy one. I am in Oz and I can pick one up for just under $400. Thanks Sam and your videos have been very helpful.
Hope you enjoy DCC with the Power Cab... i love mine, as well as a cab06 and SB5.... next I'm looking into adding Wifitrax...
Hey Sam, guess you’ve discovered DCC properly (apologies for sounding patronising…not my intent). I’ve been DCC for 20 years and have Roco Z21 which is marvellous and might be worth you reviewing. NCE has a great reputation so you can’t go far wrong. Hornby kind of invented DCC with Zero 1 back in the late ‘70s but it was the German and American manufacturers who really made it happen including setting NMRA standards with which Hornby weren’t compatible when they relaunched their DCC offering.
My journey with DCC started with Lenz (excellent) through Fleischmann Twin Centre to ESU Ecos arriving at app based Z21 which is so simple yet sophisticated it’s ridiculous.
Enjoy NCE 😄
Hi Sam,
I believe the Power Track you are using is a DC one using them for DCC can cause issues with some locos or Decoders. Although these do work most of the time the DCC power track has Green Buttons on the top so you might wanna give that some consideration.
Cheers,
Michael.
Hi Michael - those DC power tracks just have a capacitor in parallel with the two rails... and I've never known that to cause any problems! The capacitor is not necessary on DCC, but I can't imagine it causing any problems... and indeed it doesn't on this system!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, I am impressed by the capabilities of your DCC loco. I never invested in DCC as I felt the track based control solution was not the way to go and there seemed to be too many boxes and fiddly bits to get it to work - plus this is an area crying out for standards to apply and Hornby went their own way in the beginning which was a very poor decision. However Hornby have just announced HM7000 with train control via Bluetooth using an app on a phone. I believe this is the better design solution and matches real life more closely so I will be trying it out when it's available in the spring. Hopefully you will be able to review it as well to compare with the older traditional DCC control methods. Great video and very timely.
Thank you for making this much simpler. I watched a few videos before and was very confused until you pointed out how much simpler it can be. Thanks
The Hornby elink is far more reliable now than it used to be. I still use it as my main DCC control.
The software interface is very last century and a bit limiting but it's a darned good option at the price bracket.
I'm setting up an arduino based system using DCC++EX to replace it in the longer term as it allows for far more flexibility.
Great for tinkerers, you'd probably like it Sam, but not for out-of-the-box easy running.
I have used NCE before at a local model rail club and they seem pretty bulletproof.
Sam, it's great to see a video on DCC from you. The NCE Power Cab was one of my two options for getting into DCC a couple of years ago and is very popular in the US. Due to personal taste (I prefer a knob for speed control) I went with a Digitrax Zepher which is another all-in-one starter solution. My layout is very small and is all shunting at low speeds. The DCC has made a world of difference for me, primarily due to improved slow speed operation, greatly reduced motor hum, and having full and dimmable headlights at all speeds. Sound is also nice, but is secondary for me. Again, thanks for this review. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Thanks Andrew - glad to hear you found a controller that worked for you - I've heard good things about Digitrax too!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
If you ever want to go into the high end dcc shenanigans, I highly recommend ESU Loksound. I'm American but these German Decoders are the best of the best in terms of functionality and customization, due in large part to the optional Lokprogrammer
As luck would have it I recently bought one of these and then frightened myself by reading through the manual,so your overview was not only timely but very reassuring for this nervous ninny. I shall be in the shed tomorrow and plugging it in! Thanks Sam.
The manual is huge. The system does a lot though & it needs a huge manual to cover it all.
Looks good Sam. Will you be testing the new Hornby bluetooth system? Or anybody else's when they catch up with more modern tech
Yes, the NCE is a nice system, but I use the MRC Elite Wireless system (discontinued and no longer sold, unfortunately) and I like it very much.
I prefer the MRC system because the speed control is a knob, not a thumbwheel or pushbuttons, and it's wireless out of the box..
A lot of people don't like MRC because it's proprietary, but I've had no problems because of that.
But I'm sure you'll love your NCE controller -- it's a really well-made product, too!
Though if I was gonna go with the NCE system, I'd have chosen the Pro Cab version rather than the Power Cab.
The Power Cab is called that because the controller does everything including power the track.
The Pro Cab system is a more flexible DCC system with a central control unit that powers the track, and the controllers all just communicate with the control unit.
I use the Gaugemaster Prodigy presently but it’s ten years old and I’m looking for a controller that will operate signals and points as well. I am seriously considering the Powercab as my next upgrade as it offers more options when operating a layout so thanks for a great review.
Hi Sam, for once I totally agree with your review. I have used a Powercab for years now, and can't fault it. A couple of things I would suggest though if your interested, firstly I always use mine set to 128 speed steps, it gives you much finer speed control. Also "EXPN" button shows you exactly what functions you have active at any one time. The packaging is very "1990's" as you said, it's an American system, say no more, but it's a disguise to stop the rest of the world seeing how great a system it really is..........One other thing, it's worth buying a USB interface and setting up your laptop with JMRI, which is free too, and allows you to change your decoder settings on the laptop instead of trying to use the NCE Powerface screen, it's just much easier. One last thing, I saw a comment here saying you need a 5A booster for a layout the size of yours, that's not strictly true, it all depends on the number of locos your running at any one time..............Two or three is fine with the Powercab as you have it, it's something like a 1.5A power output. I run three sound locos on my layout, which is bigger than yours with no issue. Great stuff and all the best Dave.
I thin this is one of your best video. I have been using the Powercab for about 2 years and find it great, i have added an additional cab so my grand son can operate with me. I was especially pleased in learning 2 major features from you video - tHANK YOU.
I’m relatively new to the hobby and having researched controllers purchased the NCE PowerCab and not regretted my choice. I not convinced the manual is that intuitive but have picked up a lot of its operation via RUclips (surprise surprise!). The other major benefit is that the NCE PowerCab is extremely compatible with a lot of the DCC Concept products (not least the Cobalt turnout motor). This ensures wiring is kept to a minimum and reduces complexity.
Thanks for sharing Steve - that's great to hear - no regrets from me either!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam, I have just spent a fortune on Z21 black. I àint tried it yet. Do you or any of ur followers recommend it, or have I just wasted my money. I hated the ELINK from hornby. Cheers. Keep the vids coming.
I use one after having a hornby select for ages and it's a great bit of kit. I hope this is the beginning of more dcc loco reviews too
Just ordered my Power Cab and eagerly awaiting delivery. As a DCC 'virgin', this video really helped. Thank you.
I have had the NCE PowerCab for about 9 years and never had any issues apart from the occasional broken wire from continual flexing of the cable at the handset end. I also have the cab06 additional control handset which makes running 2 trains at once a bit easier.
One thing I do recommend is getting the 'auto sw' and having a separate section of track for programming your locomotives. The menu on the cab will guide you though using the auto sw instead of 'programming on the main'. It's far safer to do this than risk a reprogram of everything that is on your layout. You will hear the module click when activated.
Another tip ir to buy a few handset holders and have them placed at strategic points around your layout so you can safely stow the powercab and save it from falling.
There are loads of videos around on this system, it's reliable, easy to use and extremely popular. Check your cab is the current version which I believe is v1.3. If its an older version then it's an easy DIY upgrade, once again check RUclips.
brilliant thank you that helps so much now I will go from dc to dcc thank you
I use a Digitrax Zephyr DCS52 controller. I use a WIFI add on and WIThrottle iPhone app to control the command station. It works very well and the iPhone interface shows lot of information. Recently I have installed Soundtraxx Blunami decoders in some locos and control them with the Blunami iPhone app. Both systems work together. Blunami uses the tracks only for power not commands. My club uses NCE for a very large N scale layout.
I am happy you are satisfied with your new system.
Another great video. Thanks Sam. I have been resistant to move to DCC. But this video seems to be changing my mind. It will be interesting to see how it does in the long term and with any new DCC fitted engines which you might review. Thanks
Thanks a lot Robert - this is definitely a very easy way to go - I'd recommend it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
One thing you can do, not sure if it was mentioned in the pamphlet, is that you can use multiple of those ethernet outlets around the layout hooked up with the remote and base unit so that way you can control the layout from multiple areas well only having to use one remote and when the remote is unplugged to move it to a different outlet. The engines will still run.
Hi Sam, Great video but I feel the need to defend Hornby (for once) I've been using the elink for a few years and have never had a problem with it.
I do have a dedicated railway room mini pc that I don't use for much else but I find the elink and Railmaster are particularly good for programming the entire layout remotely, I construct programs that will set multiple trains off from different lines at individual times, stop and start at stations, change signals and points and make station announcements. My joy is programming my layout to operate fully automatically, which is what I think Railmaster is really for, not for just operating one or two locos. The graphical interface it uses by having the layout mapped on the computer screen also makes it very useful and the same when programming decoders (I have had a few different types and it has had no problem with any, I even had it operating DCC Concepts point motors long before it was supposed to recognise them) I have also used it with my phone and while this is a bit naff, it does do a good enough job.
I previously was n gauge but am currently changing to 00, again Railmaster has provision for both.
Keep up the good work Sam, maybe you should do some decoder reviews or possibly accessories like point motors?
I totally agree.
Good vid Sam, I have one that I have had for years no issues. I got mine after watching you use the Hornby one. I was between the digi trax and this one but glad I went this way. It’s good for custom cv setting in different locomotives and getting crawls going.
Great to see you retract your knife blade at 5:50. I've been using NCE for three years, good stuff. Great video.
Pretty cool Sam! I hope someday I can get a DCC controller!
Not a DCC user, but I sometimes think about going for it. From talking to exhibitors at model railway exhibitions on my visits to the UK, I got the impression that many very capable railway modellers like the NCE Power Cab.
Fabulous layout , just got one from a friend of mine using it with Murphy Models Irish Locos standard Lok Decoder. One loco has stopped responding but the NCE works quite well .
I’ve just recently bought the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express after dipping my toe in the DCC world with a Bachmann set. The E-Z controller was quite good but very limited. I also looked at getting the Powercab. Both the Powercab and Prodigy controllers seem to be low in stock everywhere. I managed to get my Prodigy from a local model shop. It was the only one left. It’s very easy to use. I managed to get two of my secondhand loco’s that had hardwired decoders in them working again just by reprogramming the CV8 setting. I guess you get what you pay for? You did very well getting yours for that price!
Sam, just received my NCE Power Cab, many thanks for a clear demonstration, looking forward to using it.
Congrats on entering the world of (enjoyable) DCC. I use Märklins MS2 controller which supports its native MFX protocol but also supports DCC protocol.
Pros of the MS2/MS3:
1. A bigger screen with all menus and 8 functions clearly visible in full
2. Intuitive controls make for simple operation
3. Locos are accessible through a controller-side database and quick access list
4. It can be upgraded to the newer version through software which is continually updated
5. You can connect 2 of them togeather on the same power box, using the hub you can connect 10 of them for controlling up to 100 trains individually!
6. Multiple language availability through menu settings
Cons of the MS2/MS3:
1. It supplies 18V to the track not making it suitable for all models or systems
2. The speed wheel also changes direction by pressing it, sometimes causing accidental stopping/reversing
3. No ability to change sound parameters
4. Emergency stop is directly above the speed wheel which can cause accidental power cutoff to the entire layout
5. A limited number of locos in the quick access list (10 on the MS2, 20 on the MS3) requiring frequent swapping from the database
6. Access of additional loco functions beond the default 8 require a convoluted button combination
Hi Sam, I have used two DCC controllers - a Fleischman Multimaus which I found incredibly difficult to use. Couldn't get more than one loco running, partly because I could not get it to change the loco address. Very user hostile. The second one uses a Raspberry Pi and is called PiSprog. This has been much better, and I have managed to reprogram a number of locos. Decoder support seems excellent. You can control locos from the computer screen or a smartphone or tablet. I still haven't managed to get more than one loco running at a time.
I got an nce power cab just before covid and have never had any issue with it. Reli able is the best description.
Wife bought me the BLI Greenbriar Express. I only had a DC layout. So I figured a Bachmann E-Z Command Plus as my first DCC. Still learning 2 weeks later. Still haven't figured out to get smoke working again. Added smoke fluid. Manual says F7 key. I tried the #7 on the green, blue, & red function settings. two function keys cause the locomotive to freak out. I'm guessing some kind of error. I should have bought the one you are featuring.
There are additional throttles with knobs. I recommend expanding with the SB5 then I only use the power cab for programming? Some are potentiometers so if you select another loco the speed will be applied. The encoder versions don't apply the speed instantly and respect the current speed of the loco. I've had one for ages and think it's great. You can reprogram all the buttons and actually add a "shift" key? It's only fault .... availability seems to be a struggle.
I have had exactly the same experience as Sam. I had a hornby select, which was prone to failure and then I had an élite which ultimately died but not before causing many problems - all related to software. I then bought an NCE Power cab and its mostly good - no real complaints. Except I have since added a cab5 - which does my head in as locos behave quite differently depending on which controller im using (example different running lights illuminate and the loco moves (or doesnt) differently too . I recommend a power supply upgrade to power cab to 5 amp.
Nice, you can run your sound-fitted steamies again. You've waited too long for this. However, do ensure that you take the time to get to know your gadget. The more you know about the different functions, the better you'll become at operating your sound-fitted steamies. I'm looking forward to seeing Maude running, I've missed her. Also, here's a tip about crawling with model steamies: on-track, run the model in for 30 minutes in each direction first. That's how you get a good crawl later.😉
I like using the thumb wheel in shutting mode. You can then change direction with the wheel.
Excellent video Sam. I also have one of these system and also love it. My advice to take it to the next level would be to get NCE's USB adapter and plug it into your PC and use JMRI. This will allow you to use your tablet and phone to control 4 trains at once using a JMRI based app. I use this for my N-scale layout, its very convenient.
Thanks very much - yes quite a few comments have mentioned that, I'd definitely be interested in giving that a try!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam, Wow... Congratulations! (Note the square section on the back of the controller held in by screws... it's convertible to wireless.) I have the NCE Powercab and SB5... Ethernet cable can be bought in greater lengths... that'll allow you also to 'go the distance' instead of leashed at six to eight feet/two to three meters. I wanted to keep this comment simple... "Good Show!" John BC, Canada
Welcome back to the DCC land. I went for the Sig-naTrak Ace 2 which has a nice colour touch screen that shows plenty of information including the ability to name your locos, up to 9999 of them and 2024 accessories. They are now in the process of creating an upgraded version the Ace 3. It can also have up to 4 controller handsets plugged in plus a 5th control via its touch screen as well as a recall function via next and pre buttons.
I'm in the process of building my first end to end O gauge layout. Running a couple of shunting locos...if this works on O gauge it will suit me down to the ground....thanks for the video Sam...👍
I don't remember where I first saw the Powercab, but it's the only DCC controller I've used since I started my N scale layout a few years ago. I've not had many problems with it in that time besides a few wonky decoders. I have digitrax, TCS, NCE, and Bachmann decoders in my engines and I have almost 20 engines stored in the powercab. I have found that occasionally some of the decoders will stop working after a while of not using the engine, even if the lights and sound work, the motor wont go. Reprogramming always fixes it though, which I usually do by setting CV8 to 8 and then using Use Program Track to check the decoder and set the address (don't do this with more than one engine on track). Other than than that it's been great. Very fast short detection which usually doesn't require a restart, super quick at everything as you have shown, and just simple to get started with. Of course you can dig pretty deep into the settings and really customize things if you want to, even setting each individual CV value for all of your programmed engines without having to stop any operations (Even while that same engine is running!)
For the wiring things: you need 6 wires for the signal generator (i.e. running with the PowerCab as the only control unit), or 4 for additional controllers.
What the mounting plate thing does is basically route the DCC wires from the handset to the tracks.
The only issue with these is that the internal protocol is incompatible with the continental / NMRA standards (that do use the same pin setup and so on)
Can recommend picking up a budget RJ crimping kit with cable tester for repairing or making up new 6 wire PowerCab leads. Can cost as little as buying the replacement cable new.
Glad you like the Power Cab! I have one for the handful of DCC locomotives I have but my layout is still very much under construction with no track laid yet. I can’t wait to use it again! The first few times we tried it out, it was fantastic.
Thanks a lot Mike - it is great fun to use isn't it? Good luck with getting everything up and running again!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, thank you for this hands-on review of the Power Cab.
Now that you are back into reviewing DCC systems, have you considered the Digikeijs DR5000 controller?
I've been using it for a few years now and I am quite happy with it.
Yes, it is more on the geeky side to do the initial set up (you need to plug it into your computer and an Internet connection), but once done, it can be used as a standalone controller.
It has it's own built in Wifi router, so you can control your trains with your phone/tablet through the (free) Roco Z21 app. You can include pictures of your locomotives, so you do not have to remember each address, and all the functions are right on front of you through clear icons. When you have friends over, they can also connect to your controller and run the trains from their own phone/tablet.
Keep up the nice videos!
Thank you
I’ve been struggling with a Bachmann starter set controller, and been considering this one. Now I will buy one from TrainWorld at USD$195. Thanks for reviewing this!
I believe the decoder is an offer from dcc concepts if you get it direct from them, I recently went from hornby controllers to Power Cab and must say it’s a world of difference, be wary to pay attention which address you’ve activated long or short… spent a long time testing track and trains to find out I just needed to use the correct address
Changing points and signals is possible too with the power cab and the macro facility is brilliant for route setting. Had mine for ten years and most happy with it.
granted its more complicated..but you want to look into a Z21 DCC control system..its hornby elite but with decent engineering behind and the option to use a handset similar to a powercab
Sam I have used the NCE system since 2001 and have had no problems. I have two Power pro's and a number of Power Cabs and would certainly recommend it to anyone.
I had a elite that was given to me about 13 months ago then I was just running trains and everything just stopped and the controller stopped responding I unplugged it and unplugged all the wires to track and it showed error and my nce powercab arrived a few days ago no faults at all with it it’s great.
Started with a Powercab when DCC was first really taking off in 2009 and haven't looked back! One of the best systems out there.
My experience of DCC has mostly been with the Hornby Select, and it does the job, but barely. I’m really tied about what to switch to, because I’d like the option of using a computer interface, especially for any later automation etc, but not be forced to use it all the time. Part of me likes the Z21 or Digikeijs, which seem to give that option. I wasn’t convinced by the look of the NCE.
I switched from Hornby Elite to the Z21 a few years ago and have not regretted the decision. The ability to use iPad and iPhones for control is brilliant. Function control is so straightforward and the layout room can make quite a racket when running 3 or more sound fitted locos.
Hi Sam, now you need to demonstrate running double headers and driving locos up to couple with other locos on the same track.... all things you cant do as well with DC. It would also be great to see if there is any difference in the control of some locos between DC and DCC, where you reviewed the crawl to be poor. I have a Lenz system and I would say it is equally good as the Power Cab, similar to use, the handset is a little smaller with Lenz with a separate box for the power controller, there is a handset variant with a knob on it. Regards Andrew
Make sure your Hornby track connectors don't have tv suppressor/capacitors built in, they can interfere with dcc locos quite badly. ATB, Andy.
Thank you for the videos. I’m thinking of going to DCC to bring some more life to the sets I have and you have been extremely helpful.
Now I'm curious about any equipment you've reviewed that had interesting DCC features in the past. Specifically the Accuscale Class 92.
Hey Sam, you should review the Roco Z21, for me is the best dcc controller. You can even use your phone to control your engines.
Consider this…. The design of NCE was so advanced compared to everything else back in the 90s that it still holds up today! Things like advanced consisting and programming on the main and Duplex radio communications have all been there from the start! The big fad now is WiFi throttles, but as you experienced with the Hornby decoders, WiFi introduces all the problems with bandwidth in your home to your trains. I much prefer the command going from my hand to my command station to my train. Quick with little chance of confusion and delay… 😉
I'm a dcc noob and it's been great. Very user friendly. It does, as it should. Now comes the fun of expanding.