I'm not a railroad modeller or even into trains at all but I like your videos anyway. It is nice seeing someone dedicated to their hobby and doing something they enjoy. I also like your humor!
Hi Charlie, thank you for your interest in our Hunt Couplings, they were primarily designed to make uncoupling easy and offer reliability in operation with inclines, helix's and push operations. The hst clip sets we do have been designed to work with layouts with second radius curves or helix's and double back on second radius, It has been a minefield and hornby on some models have altered the position of the pin in the coupling on the bogie therefore we have had to design the HST clip set to cater for both, we do do a HST CLOSE CLIP SET but due to hornby's bogie design these are only designed for radius 4 curves and greater, we will pop a set in the post for you to look at. Regarding strength they were tested for upto 14 coaches on a three tier helix, the locomotive started wheel slipping at that point, Love the Tug Of War :-)
Loving the OO couplings. Most of my freight stock doesn't have NEM pockets and I am having to buy 3D printed ones (as also featured in Charlie's video) but this is no great hardship - comes with buying old job lots from ebay! I think you have the price point spot on - especially compared to some other manufacturers - and I intend to modify all my rolling stock and locomotives. Cheers.
Thanks Chris, and it was a great conversation we had earlier as well. Good luck with your project and I’ll let you know how I get on with the new couplings, regards Charlie
I've installed Kadees on most of my stock Charlie but some great ideas here for closer coupling on coaches and to buy some NEM pockets off Ebay. No wonder your YT Channel has so many subscribers as it's just so darn helpful and is presented in such a friendly and disarming manner. Thank you so much. William
I started to fit the keen system to my mk3s about a year ago. After quite a bit of surgery I encountered clearance issues between the wheel flanges and the kinematic coupling. With more effort I'm sure they can be made to work. I parked the project at that point and instead have bought some of the hunt couplings which I've not yet fitted. Up to this point I've run my HSTs with the powered car pushing the train. Its not ideal but sure helps with that nasty gap. Freight is a whole separate problem as you demonstrated. Those oxfords, blimey! Not tried any of their stuff yet. Cheers
Hi Richard, I had a text from Chris Hunt (Hunt Couplings) asking for a chat regarding my disappointment with my HST coupling gaps. I measured the gap at a little over 4mm and he will make me another set with a 2mm gap. I left my Keen Mk3s unopened, being yet another “sometime” job. The Oxford clearances were shocking. I just can’t understand why folks that do reviews have never mentioned it. Stay safe mate, regards Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Interesting, I guess the issue is navigating the curves. I have a mix of 3rd and 4th radius so will be interesting to see how you get on. Was aware of the gap on oxford mk3s but not those carflats. Shocking as you say! I'm safe & well, hope the same applies to you, cheers
Thank you for the coupling video. I have used the Fleischmann Proffi couplings in my fixed rakes of coaches, they go straight into a NEM pocket to be used with the "close coupling mech"
Very nice Charlie very informative , I love your variations to the hobby on certain items , keep posting the videos please they’re very useful to all modelers , thank you .
Thanks Charlie for the information and of course the live theatre entertainment as usual. Cheered me up no end as I struggle with my coupling issues. Just spent 3 hours sorting out/modifying the NEM pocket height issue on a brand new Bachman Prairie. These things are sent to try us!
Hi Charlie, just a follow up with the couplings. I use black chenille about 10 mm diameter. Drill 2 holes 1.5 mm in the top and base of the edge of the doorways in the centre, cut the chenille and bend it in so it sticks out a little top and bottom. You do this to both mating ends ,it doesn’t catch on anything and shows no gap at any angle. I use this on modern Bachmann coaches using the supplied brake pipe type coupling. Hopefully this helps. I bought a big bag of the chenille on e bay.
Hi Charlie. Your homemade magnetic coupling will always fail first as the force being applied is vertical not horizontal (watch the coupling as the pull apart, the magnet lifts before separating). The hunt couplings line up perfectly with the strongest force of the magnet - horizontal.
Thanks Charlie, love the magnets idea but if you do any switching it is not going to be easy. I decided to go with Kadees (metal, for strength) on my HO for looks and operation. Now on my n scale I use Microtrains couplers. But plan on going to their True scale for unit trains. Thanks for sharing....Jack 👍👍👍
I model N gauge and regularly use the buck eye couplings sold by Fleischmann. Fleischmasnn also sell couplings that let you convert others wagons that don’e have the NEM type socket
Charlie, On Finescale stock you need sprung buffers to stop buffer lock around tight radius curves. Also they need to be fitted with very soft springs so the buffers are moving as soon as they touch. I remember we all used to use very soft black sponge plugs to fit into the corridor connectors, to hide the gap completly. There was an article in the 60's in the magazine Modal Railway News on how to make and dress the outside of the plug to look like a bellow's connector. Still it keeps us in our bubbles. Next week I might put my toe outside the front door. Cheers, Chris Perry.
A little late to the party on this one, but what I've found to be the most effective coupling options for me is as follows: I use the Keen replacement coupler plate / assembly on the brake ends of all my Bachmann MK1/MK2 coaches as this puts the NEM pocket at the correct height & location for using Kadee couplers. I also use the Keen assembly when inserting Hornby coaches into the middle of a rake of Bachmann coaches. I believe the latest Bachmann coaches have the NEM pocket at the correct location now, but I've not been able to verify. I use the standard Bachmann vacuum hose on internal couplers, as my rakes are mostly permanent and once on the board, they do not come off... although, I may look into the Hunt couplers going forward. Everything else, is generally a Kadee #18, as I've found this to be the best fit... with the exception of the Dapol Turbot wagons. Like the Oxford carflats, a standard coupler does not give an acceptable distance between the cars. Dapol however, did include a very short coupling bar that is similar to the Bachmann intermodal coupler, for coupling the Turbots together. I use a Kadee 17 at the ends where the Turbots connect to other stock, and when coupled to a Kadee 18, it provides a reasonably close couple. I have used the full Keen system on a rake of Hornby Colletts and GWR Centenary coaches with varying degree's of success.
Many thanks, Derek, for such an interesting comment. I have in fact removed all of my keen couplings. I find that using the Hunt couplings a much more reliable commodity. With my fix rakes I use the Bachman type hose, with a magnetic coupling midway, to assist with maintenance. Regards, Charlie.
Great video again Charlie. I bought some of the hunt couplings recently, pretty pleased with them - a few don't fit well in certain NEM sockets but this is likely down to different manufacturers so need a spot of glue, and some of the magnets came out of their housings which was disappointing for the price paid - still a bit of glue fixed this too. The only downside is needing the polarity to be a certain way for it to work so trains need to be set up the right way round for a loco, but not a massive issue and a big improvement on the standard Hornby / Dapol etc. Thanks, Tom
As someone who models continental trains this is fascinating. Continental manufacturers have been fitting kinematic close coupling and NEM boxes to their freight and passenger cars for decades. The oldest example I have in my collection dates from 1973. And the couplings on that model are also power conducting for interior lighting and direction changing head and tail lights. Marklin, Roco and Fleishman all sell couplings which are better than Kaydee and any make of coupling will fit any make of rolling stock using standardized NEM boxes. But the couplings from each manufacturer are different so you have to fit the same to each wagon or coach. But they all couple or uncouple easily, although they are designed to stay together over bad points. Fleishman style couplings are also available from Viessman in a power conducting configuration which will still couple with the ordinary ones. Even the power conducting ones couple or uncouple easily without having to leave rolling stock permanently attached. I believe Hornby sold a knockoff of Roco couplings for a while at an inflated price. I don't know if they still do. I tried them on a rake of Hornby coaches with kinetic close coupling from the factory but Hornby had not worked out the distances properly and they didn't work, derailing the coaches on curves. I never have that issue with continental rolling stock because they do their math properly. Personally I use Fleishman and Viessman couplings as they are sturdier and stay coupled better over bad track.
Charlie - another great video! When watching, I feel like you are our own personal train professor! I love magnets, glad they are being used more and more for different model train applications! I am doing my first model train layout and am using earth magnets for my lift up bridge to keep it in place and also for underlayments for steep slopes by DCC Concepts.
Hi Charlie. Another interesting and entertaining video though a slightly confusing title.....surely you have already established in video 81 that the best NEM couplings are Kadees. What you are really looking at are kinematic coupling mounts and the best couplers to use with them. In this case you should really be looking at the Roco and Fleischmann close coupling types which have been easily available in the UK for over 30 years. Hornby also offer a near identical copy of the Roco type. I can only think of one advantage Hunt couplings would have over either of the types above: Coupling on curves. Both Roco and Fleischmann types can be 'disengaged' and used for shunting in the same way that a Kadee can. The Keen System coupling mounts are really designed to be retro fit kinematic systems and used with any NEM pocket coupling and not just the Keen 'knuckle'. These mounts should really have been put onto the Hornby HST in your video and then could have been used with the Hunt NEM, Bachmann bar or the Roco types - or any other number. If you have not had experience of Roco or Fleischmann close couplers I would urge you to seek some out. They are not the answer to everything - but for rakes of coaches or wagons with kinematic mounts (at the correct height), I think they are great. Stay safe - I'm off for a look at your new ballasting video now.
An interesting point Andrew, which is much appreciated. The problem with couplings, is of course that there are so many different sorts that it is so difficult to cover them all in these videos. I’ve tended to go for the most common sorts that my followers use having listened to their requests. Stay safe mate regards Charlie
Another great update,it’s a minefield now with so much choice,I’ve just got some Hunt couplings to try out.Spratt and Winkle,the look that followed was straight out of a Carry on film,keep it up and all the best 😂👍
A company I worked for years ago used neodymium rare-earth magnets for water treatment. A larger size than you are experimenting with. They came with a warning, as they were so strong you could physically get injured if you caught your finger or hand between two magnets. Mighty powerful things.
You brits seem to be spoiled by choice but not quality or function. Kadees are by far the best. Another in depth, informative and entertaining video, well done sir!
Morning Charlie, on the 'Hunt' Couplings, did you discover the modifrication made to the Hose pipe coupling to the effect that the contacting faces 'ROTATE' to suit the magnetism of each coupling to hold and not repel. I think they are around 19 GBP bag for HST /Close Coupling. When this Lockdown Lunacy is over I'll be looking at an order. I had the same problem with not enough hold on the magnets I got (1mm) 100 of them so I turned them into MU Cables, glued one to the loco connecter point and one each of a fine Orange wire about an inch long. looks good and took care of surplus stock
I wonder, I don't have Helixes down here, (sorry, just one, in the middle of the North Island), I have an idea, if your couplings a letting go on the inside of the helix, it could be that the heads of the coupling are not TWISTING in relation to the two coaches. Got an idea that might work? cut the coupling off the shank, the 'face-up' the two surfaces, drill down the centre of the shaft so that the head/knuckle swivels. It's going to take a bit of experimental strength testing. pinhead in knuckle jaws and rest of pin down shaft, when everything is working, heat end of pin with soldering iron to fix in place n the shaft and the head swivels. Necessity is the mother of convenience or something similar...I'll let you know
Hi Charlie, I'm not sure if anyone else has mentioned this but I think if you're going down the route of semi-permanently coupled rakes, you could definitely get away with real miniature chain and brass hooks. Obviously more fidely and time consuming but they stay together very well and can easily adapt to imperfections and undulations in the track. Also, it allows you to keep the existing NEM pockets on the wagons, maybe the first and last in the train retaining original coupling to connect to locos.The main reason though is of course the looks - I don't think anything else compares for me.
Thanks for another great video. An alternative coupling mechanism is the German Ribu system It consists of a KKK box with adjustable height mounted NEM box. (The KKK is Kurzkupplingkinematic, not the US version!) The box simply is glued to the chassis, great for Hornby coaches with bogie mounted couplings removed. Priced a little high but they work well.
I’ve gone with the hunt couplings and as they update their designs these have got closer so great results with HST close couplings though on the engines, one was loose due to tolerance discrepancies in the manufacturing. It did also catch part of the undercarriage so a little filing did the trick and this was reported to West Hill Wagon Works who were very obliging and sent me a couple more on my next order. Not as much luck with the hornby freight single screw on tension lock replacement types. The hole wasn’t a big enough diameter for the screw and trying to take this out about 0.2mm bigger resulted in it breaking through the surrounding material on two occasions. I was promised an updated product version foc but, that hasn’t happened despite two emails without a response, which is a shame. Loved your narration and video tutorial on the McKinley Railway shunters btw with the kadee cotton motorised uncoupling assembly with ESU programming. Dedication indeed and such a beautiful result.
Hello Charlie. Just to advise that if your site doesn't register all of the 'hits' from people watching, at least here in Canada, I watch your videos via our apple t.v. RUclips is included on their streaming device, but as far as I have determined, I cannot add any comments or click on any icons while watching on my t.v. set. (only on my computer). I do enjoy your self deprecating sense of humour , but you have provided many great ideas. One of your videos was regarding ballasting and sound transmission through the baseboard. Articles in Model Railroader mentions artists' polymer matte medium as it lasts longer than diluted white glue and gives some flexibility to the track and ballast while some sound deadening qualities . However like many things, there seems to be pros and cons when choosing it over white glue (including the best way to remove it if necessary). Cheers. Ed.
Hello Charlie,no....not here to knock you this time! A very incisive addition to your videos..I like many others bought a lot of Mr.Keens couplings for a previous layout and found they work very well indeed not only on RTR but a three set brass kit rake of Southern coaching stock-a real bugger to fit,but in the end,got em! I too go with you on the 'HUNT' ones and will refit all my rolling stock with them.Thanks once more for an hours worth of good, interesting entertainment.Best wishes,Larry in Gloucester.
Hey Charlie, Thank you very much for your nice Coupler Ideas of what I never heard before. Some guys in germany do make experiments with 2 polarity electric couplers using strong magnets and looking like the prototype Scharfenberg coupler head. Me I am modellinc a fictional privare railway company in the year of 1908 based at Luebeck in northern germany. During this period of time Luebeck wasen't imperial prussian kingdom terretory. From 1899 to 1909 the imperial prussian state railway made a general coupling test to use the Krupp Middelbuffer Coupler, which had some similarities to the older Janney Coupler. My fictional private railway using the new Krupp Coupler of course, too. I had been compatible to Hook & Chain Coupling with side buffers, the Hook & Chain had been mounted onto side of the middle buffer shaft and could be swinged onto side to use the traditional european Hook & Chain Coupler, too. Since I read from the general coupler test, I can fitting my era 1 (1835 to 1919) cars prototypely with kadee knuckle coupler or kadee compatible couplers together with side buffers. So the models looking real like the prototype did it, too by using the Krupp Coupler.
So many options out on the market these days in relation to couplings. I will be getting rid of the tension lock coupling on my models and was previously going to go to kadee couplings. Having said that some of these cheaper alternatives are growing on me. A great video Charlie and all the best, Clint
I absolutely LOVE this video. While I am in the US and I know I have made a comment on the previous video about Kadees and my dislike of the uncoupling pin (I have had just too many cause issues at times) I do still like them over other US knuckle options we have here (I really love Rapido MacDonald Cartier ones overall they just do not have spares for sale that I know of) although I do wish the US would use NEM pockets instead. So much easier to change things around. Although I wanted to say that this episode gave me quite a few ideas for how to couple 24' ore cars with a drawbar (will need modifications for using some of what you have shown but I think it would not be super difficult). Some of the railroads would use them in 4 car sets with drawbars on the middle cars. Well done video and thank you for the excellent ideas!! Happy modeling, John
Hi Charlie Another informative and fun video, thanks, you may have solved a problem I have with my layout. I’d get a derailment on a bend, instinctively I've gone to track fault, which on a couple was the cause; I had not considered buffer lock. That will be the phone then, I instinctively went to grab my phone (same ring tone), its all good fun. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Hi. Hornby Maunsell coaches come with the kinematic system and the Roco style Close couplings. You can also mix one Hornby with one Roco to get them even closer. Why didn’t you cover the Roco couplings? As I replied to your other video I love the Shapeways couplings on wagons. Keep safe Alec
@@ChadwickModelRailway With the height difference between some of those coupler heads that's no surprise, as all euro close couplers allow lifting the wagons out of the consist. Any height difference outside tolerances will result in unplanned decoupling
I switched my Bachmann MK 1 & 2s to Keen but only because it puts the NEM at the correct height and then I used Kadees for all my stock. I use those 3d printed NEM boxes on my 4 wheeled wagon stock either on the old Hornby wagons or the Mainline/Bachmann wagons. They seem to work quite well. I will be getting the Hunt couplings for my HST sets as they seem a good compromise.
Hi Scott, I have spoken with Chris Hunt from Hunt Couplings and he is going to manufacture me some shorter HST couplings, for me to trial. So wait until I try them before you buy. Regards Charlie
G'Day Charlie. Mate what can I say, its a bloody minefield when it comes to couplings. Well presented as always, thanks. I think that is why I just stick to the one type, which is of course Kadee's. Yep even on coaches, to me its more about the reliability as well as the versatility of Kadee couplings. So far I've not seen another system that can allow the operator to uncouple and re-couple rolling stock at will on the layout without involving the "Hand of God" somwhere. At least with the kadee system you can use perma-magnets (or the electro) under the track anywhere you like and not even see where you have installed them (except for where you "Sign Post" your uncoupling spot). Or you can even go the rout like McKinley has with the "Auto coupling" with Kadee's. Can't say the same for the rest of them though.
I use the Fleischmann Profi couplings. Rolling stock with NEM-short coupling pockets only. Looking sort of OK, technical, not actually realistic and even perhaps a bit agricultural. But they do the job well, carriages can be lifted out of a train like with KaDee's. Uncoupling is mechanical, plastic, no magnetic touch to it. Cheap, I have lots of loco's and carriages. Yet, this is for the continental trains. For the fewer British stuff I have ( Smaller lay out ) I'm considering Kadee. Partly because of your vid on these. Looking great, curious to see how they work for me.
Hi Charlie,Des from Down Under.Enjoyed your video once again.I tend to use a mixture of coupling types.Haviing started,or should I say restarted,I use Roco close coupling/Nem pockets system components on my stock.I tend to use the Roco close coupler for passenger stock (Hornby use a very similiar coupler,but it is a bit bigger(HO as opposed to OO)For goods stock I have converted a lot of my British outline to the Roco type of coupler assembly .At present I have been looking at the Hunt system and also those Bachmann/Earth Magnet type of system you have described very well,the only disadvantage I can see over here the cost is expensive.My HST has been converted on the engine to a close coupling system used by Roco as a spare part which is available as a spare part.and it works well.I do like the system you have used with the earth magnets/Bachmann coaching bar.Hope I have not been too long winded,but in conclusion I would love a a world wide universal coupling system that would be acceptable to all...............yes i know I'm dreaming.kindest regards Des.
Have you tried the Hornby magnetic couplers ? From what I can see on photos there are two magnets each side which I assume will eliminate the rejection problem. And a problem WILL arise if a return loop is on the layout and consists are spilt in either direction.
Great video Charlie, I have used the home made magnet on the cut pipe system for about 5 years now on most of my coach stock, occasionally it comes out of the fiddle yard a couple of coaches short of a rake but rarely, and it’s cheap and looks right. I would not use it for rakes of more than 9 coaches though.
Great video, some really good info for me and my rolling stock, thank you. I use Fleischmann Profi & Roco couplings, I agree with you those Hornby HST couplings are horrendous! I would be interested if you ever looked at adding coach bellows as well...perhaps a future vid...!?
The more I see on shapeways, the more impressed I am. I also build military models and 3D printing is a game changer. Shapeways is a great alternative for plastic parts until I can learn Autocad Fusion 360 well enough to reliably design my own products.
Brilliant video Charlie Think Gibs Onethirty sums it up well - Kadees are my preferred couplings because of the 'Hands Free' operation and push shunting.... Keep up the excellent work, stay safe & well.......... Regards, Nigel at west hatton model railway.
Another good, informative and amusing video Charlie. It's such a shame that manufacturers don't standardise on a coupling system and/or follow the standards provided. Imagine cars having proprietary petrol pump/fuel tank interfaces! You'd think that any perceived downside to inter-manufacturer compatibility would be equally felt by all applicable model makers; likewise the gain. In a world of ever increasing model railway control technology and attention to aesthetic detail the elephant in the room persists. Man got to the moon over half a century ago and yet (in the UK at least) we can't couple adjacent model rail vehicles realistically without a fight.
Great video as always Charlie. To answer your question about how much it would cost to 3D print a coupling. You would want to print it with an FDM (Filament) printer, not the MSLA (liquid resin) printer. The cost of filament varies, but a good rule of thumb is about US$20 per kg (between £18-£20 per kg). I've done replacement couplings for the Eurostar, and they run a fraction of a penny per coupling, and those are a bit bigger than a normal NEM coupling. Couplings are definitely a problem that nobody has really nailed down yet. I've actually had about 2000+ or so small magnets laying around for various projects (including couplings) for the better part of a year. I don't really see the point of static couplings. You can get about 100-200 small magnets from Amazon for under $10, so I'm pretty sure I can 3D print functional magnetic couplings for between 3p and 7p each (with the magnet in it). As for those Bachmann drawbar couplings, you can produce something much better for about a half penny in material per coupling. Stay tuned to my channel, I'm almost done with the Trackside3D website updates, so that will free up my time to wrap up the umpteen 3D printing projects I have on the go :)
@@ChadwickModelRailway Will do. I just wrapped up my kids' synthetic ice rink (for hockey) in the basement at 3am this morning. Also means I have somewhere to air brush now. So I'm off to grab breakfast and then its full steam ahead on model railway projects. I'll keep you updated. :)
Hi Charlie. Another great and informative video as usual, and my first comment to you too. Regarding the Modal (4)couplings I think these may designed for use on the Modern container wagons which run in fixed formations, and the 'inner' wagons have no buffers to lock. Just a theory as I have none. I'm currently experimenting with Hunt couplings and find they can be used for selective purposes i.e fixed rakes and quick to uncouple when required. Also although A & B markings are small to see, you'll find the 'A's are coloured Gold & the 'B's Silver. Hope this helps people.
Hi Charlie, great video for magnet issues i.e north,north,south,south redling each other if you use a ball magnet on one end of a a coupling it will stick to the north or south poles oand even each other and offers some compliance. On the test you did at the end the failiure was more that rotationanl force through the coupling rather tha a streight pull which is not (prototypical) oops
I do understand that the test was not fair because it wasn’t a straight pull. However, it was a fair test after all because that was she are putting pressure. And what I’ve written doesn’t make any sense at all!
I love watching your videos, and you’re probably my favourite channel I choose to watch. I would like to see more videos relating on the progress of your layout rather than renumbering locomotives and getting disappointed with the distance between your wagons. Saying that I would like it if you did a video on track cleaning as it would be really interesting to know what you use, and why. Kind regards Ian’s I I
Re the comment under, I should really proof read before sending, it's Kupplung, not Kuppling, slappy wrist. Many years ago I read an article about a Swiss exhibition H0 layout. They used clothing press studs as couplings....now that is very cheap! Thanks for all your videos
Hi Charlie, great video as usual. I have used the Bachman pipe couplings and neomagnets as you used. Never thought of doing what you did with them. The hunt coupling magnets look to have a larger surface area which is possibly why they have more attraction. Anyway, I run 6 coach sets so will try your idea.
Hi Charlie as always informative and entertaining . What annoys me is that there is not an industry standard for the height which makes using any type of coupling difficult . At the moment I have a mix of NEM & non NEM couplings so will probably give hunt couplings a try on coaches and wagons which I wont use for shunting.........……...Keep safe ----- Cheers Kev
Stick a bit of big pipe cleaner vertically at the back of the door and you’ll never see a gap between the coaches. I’ll send you a picture of the arrangement if you want. You can buy this stuff at the kid’s craft section at Tesco.
Hello Charlie, I'm not a railway modeller, but I have found the coupler discussion fascinating. I have seen on RUclips Ree magnetic couplings which look very effective, but you make no mention of them. But like you say, there are so many variations out there, you could write a book on the subject. Best wishes!
Hi Finlay, I do own a set of magnetic couplings I use them on both my Pullman cars, and a set of Mark two coaches. They do seem very efficient. However, on my freight stock the KD’s win every time. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie good video once again just one point buffer lock happens with reverse where a vehicle passes over a curve in one direction and then immediately there is a refresh curve in the opposite direction allowing one buffer to move around the opposite one and lock up. This can occur in the 1:1 world and minimum. Radius are specified in the track Design handbook to avoid this issue. Would not be on the mainline but in sidings and depots
Very interesting. Wondering if you would have seen a NEM extender that gets left on a individual cars? A short plug male/female, that just extends the length on one car? The issue I have is with Fleischmann cars and engines going around some curves with the bumpers coming into contact on the inside of the curve and lifting the inner wheels off the track. This happens only with certain combinations of cars and engines but is consistent to their use. The next step would be to dissect two dozen couplers to insert spacing plugs. Thoughts? Ideas? PM
Yes Patrick, buffer clash can be a real problem on tight curves. However, I have never heard of a system of extending the NEM coupler. Clearly a coupling with a longer shaft is what is required or perhaps shortening of the buffer stocks. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie I hope that you are doing well .You have now convinced me that Hunt couplings are worth while .They are the winners by far . The telephone call was all you needed not .I know the feeling. Best of luck with your railway and see you again soon
It's so darned complicated. Even on this side of the pond, we've been besieged by different takes on the Kadee standard. And none seem to improve on the Kadee. I understand that the Kadee coupler doesn't really conform with either the look or the function of European version, but there seems to be tons of possible solutions. Good job, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, great watchable video as always, I know you are more of a modern image modeller than me but Hornby do make kinematic couplers on the Maunsell coach stock. Hornby provide Roco couplers as well as tension lock for each coach and I've found that they work quite well, easy to split up just by lifting vertically. Cheers stay safe.
I use the bachmann dmu couplers .they are similar to the continental type model couplers they are smaller profile,they couple closer for better scale distance and are easier to uncouple with a hand uncoupler such as a thin piece of hooked wire or a bamboo skewer with a notch cut in .they are approx 10 quid for pack of 10 which is a lot of money but they work well .
Another good overview of the minefield of couplings. The hunt couplings look a good product, especially with the new elite version. For us finescale modellers as well as the Spratt and winkle, there's a few others such as dingham (my choice probably), dg and Alex Jackson. As well as of course functional 3link and screw couplings which some favour. Regardless of what you model be it fine or otherwise, it will always to some extent be a personal choice between ease of use and cost. I will probably use the hunt couplings on units (though I do wish they'd made the look more akin to buckeye or shefenberg types as used on the railway.
An interesting comment, many thanks.Yes the Hunt Couplings are very attractive when compared with our dreadful standard alternative. If only the manufacturers could form a coalition and find a way forward on this one.
I thought I had coupler problems. You guys sure have more than we do in the states. Either way it is horrible how much things such as this’d costs so very much. Since I left n scale modeling I had Rapido paddle couplers. Fast forward and now day’s we have knuckle couplers. About time I took my break Kadee was relatively new. They commanded a high price. Good video. Take care and this will be nonsense some be over soon.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My only challenge now is how to upgrade 40-50 year old stock away from the enormous drop links they have now! 🤔 If I get a good solution I'll let you know...😅
Edward Walton Bespoke You could try a combination; one drop link and a magnet each side, pairing with the next wagon to have a three link (with the blob in the middle being an instanter link).
Love your down to earth videos, all my coaching stock is 1980s/early 1990s mainly Mainline & Airfix so living in Christchurch New Zealand it is very hard to find anything to replace the existing tension couplings, so you have to just suck it up! Kadee is about £7.50 a pack.
Hi Charlie, thank you for another interesting and informative Video! Your channel is one of my favorites on RUclips! All the best to you and your family! Best wishes from Germany Günter
Hi Charlie, Thank you for an informative video... However, despite your best efforts, I will probably carry on using tension lock couplings as I find them cheap to buy (secondhand), easy to fit and very reliable. I don't much like NEM pockets but am stuck with a few newer wagons on which they are fitted...Most of my rolling stock being thirty to forty years old and came with my favorite couplings fitted as srandard. I am thinking about Spratt and Winkle, but probably will not make the change now.
Hello! I am from India. My dad and I are interested in model railroads. We already have a few locos, and some rolling stock. We are planning on building a fixed layout. I feel that this channel will be a great addition to our knowledge of model railroads. Thank you for your videos. I would like to show you our latest try at layout and have your thoughts on it.
Well done Charlie. A great summation of this problematic and messy subject. The base problem is there are too many variables. You have the variation in manufacturers standards, both between different brands but coupling variation by the same brands over time. Then you have the variation in markets. For the toy market tension lock is cheap and proven and probably visually acceptable. Then for the serious models market you have the layout to layout variation in curves severity and the individual owner's tolerance to vehicle spacing. Then, finally, you have the uncoupling question - the need (or non-need) for which hinges on a fresh set of variables such as era modelled (loco+train vs multiple units) end to end or round and round operation, passenger versus frieght, fixed point uncoupling or uncouple-anywhere ....and probably other things. In light of all those variables it is small suprise that there is no ideal answer! I think if I could somehow wipe the slate clean, I would say NEM pockets on all vehicles at a standard height, with some kind of Kadee type coupling, but all engines/traction cars must have an inbuilt micro-solenoid which the decoder can activate to uncouple via a DCC command. Such systems do exist, but I think the cost of those and the sheer volume of legacy models which are around make it unrealistic to get to such a standardisation in our lifetimes! ruclips.net/video/R479HMc2fi0/видео.html
Im glad we on same page this time,last was not good for me. My old layout is 30ftx 2.....so no real way to expand it...need the other foot for me! Keep it up!
Another excellent video review. I remember seeing the 3 link coupling video and thinking they looked amazing. I have operated exhibition layouts with sprat and winkle couplings and they are ideal for shunting wagons with strategic magnets placed in the track. Keen couplings I've experienced are very good, a bit fiddly to get spot on but worth it in the end. The kadee couplings are probably the best prototypical looking and with a vast variety available, there is something for most needs. I'm glad you fitted a set of Hunt (careful how you say that) couplings to a HST. I was going to get a few sets but I won't bother now. A note on the HST though, the new mk3s have nem pockets wether that would make any difference...... Thanks again
HI Charlie. Just like a real Railway buffer lock ,there was one road in particular in Inchicore railway works where this was a common occurrence with Havsbourg wagons, a Forklift was the usual tool to lift and separate them. Ret Irish Rail Craftsmen.
The Kadee company was started by 2 brothers. Some time during my break in the Hobby Kadee split one brother kept Kadee (the larger scales). The other took N and Z scales. They still aren’t cheap. But when all the cars you buy have them you are given no choice. Rail on my friend.
Available in OO gauge, but in my case uin N gauge, I have for many years used DG Couplings. My main operation is uncoupling but on my layout where rakes of up to 60 wagons are run, I use my own homemade hook and eye couplings on wagons in groups with a DG serarating them, and on pick up goods wagons I use solely DGs. I have to agree that couplings from the manufactuers are absolutely visually horrible, especially in N gauge. Thanks for the interesting info Charlie. Stay safe Cheers, Bob
I really like the idea of a rake of wagons with Kaydee couplings at the end. But how about some modified 3d printed coupling with magnets as well. so you do a rake of 3 then a magnet coupling and rake of 3. ( I like 3 wagon rakes they tend to fit in one hand )
I was looking forward to you putting up a video on these after asking you a little while ago. Thank you, great video, great advice as always...stay well
Hi Charlie, Here in the US we used to have what were called Rapido couplers, which were distinctively ugly and unpleasant to deal with. I tend to buy used rolling stock and if the cars do not have Kadees on them that is the first thing I change on them. There are knock offs of the Kadees from McHenry and Acumate, both of which use plastic components and so uncouple far more easily than the Kadees, albeit they are cheaper. There are a few others that offer Kadee type couplers but I rarely see them. Thankfully we do not have the tension type couplers in the US.
One thing that frustrates myself and my partner is that with any magnetic coupling, we have to remember or mark each carriage as to which end the "A" end is, then we have to ensure every carriage is the same way. Not an easy job with over 100 carriages, and hence we are sticking with Kadees
With the era of Mk.1 coaches that I model, the carriages have a left and a right side, hence a front and a back, as there are more doors (and any corridors) on the left platform side of the carriages than on the right. So I already have to think front and back when assembling a long rake. I use the Japanese bookcase storage boxes, so my carriages are always stored the correct way around. It makes life much easier.
Excellent video explaining about couplers. Not trying to sound to bad, what do you mean by “first radius curve”? You did a great job showing how things work. Thanks for sharing. Ken
TUG O' WAR COUPLINGS Charlie, only just viewed this episode.... Methinks you did yourself a disservice here.... You held the right-hand coach, (your coupling magnet), stationary and pulled the left-hand coach, (Hunt coupling magnet), and with it the middle coach, to the left. Your coupling between the middle coach and the right-hand coach was therefore always bound to give way first. True Chadwick Test Plant Operations would see, say, four coaches, (magnetic coupling at the centre point), with one end tethered to a fixed point, and the other end connected to the HST Power Car. One test with the Hunt coupling......then the other with yours......... With a steady pull in each test from the power car, (stop watch in camera optional), this would be a more comparative test. As an extra test you could tether the fixed coach with an elastic band, which I think would mimic the small tensile stress / pulling power on a model railway..... I reckon the results might not be that different .....but hey, what do I know.....? Just a thought.... James Hennighan Yorkshire, England P.S. On reflection the elastic band tether at one end might be a better test since it could be argued that it's elastic action represented a Power Car pulling in the opposite direction to the Powered Power Car at the other end.
Once again Charlie a very informative and interesting video! This video together with others you did on couplers should help me with some issues I have/replacing the rapido couplers on my rolling stock. Thanks!
Great video! I'm sticking with tension lock for the moment, but your video has spurred me on to find an alternative for the Oxford Rail Carflat's I recently bought.
Great video. 3d printing wise it would definitely be possible with a good printer for the 3 link couplings however the bachmann one you showed before would be even easier both would cost a penny or so to produce
I'm not a railroad modeller or even into trains at all but I like your videos anyway. It is nice seeing someone dedicated to their hobby and doing something they enjoy. I also like your humor!
Thanks Petra, you’re too kind
Hi Charlie, thank you for your interest in our Hunt Couplings, they were primarily designed to make uncoupling easy and offer reliability in operation with inclines, helix's and push operations.
The hst clip sets we do have been designed to work with layouts with second radius curves or helix's and double back on second radius, It has been a minefield and hornby on some models have altered the position of the pin in the coupling on the bogie
therefore we have had to design the HST clip set to cater for both, we do do a HST CLOSE CLIP SET but due to hornby's bogie design these are only designed for radius 4 curves and greater, we will pop a set in the post for you to look at.
Regarding strength they were tested for upto 14 coaches on a three tier helix, the locomotive started wheel slipping at that point, Love the Tug Of War :-)
Is there any plans for hunt to produce n gauge nem couplings
@@katiedave1098 Yes already in testing - release soon :-)
@@WestHillWagonWorks thank you very much for your reply, can't wait for these fantastic couplings for n gauge.
Loving the OO couplings. Most of my freight stock doesn't have NEM pockets and I am having to buy 3D printed ones (as also featured in Charlie's video) but this is no great hardship - comes with buying old job lots from ebay! I think you have the price point spot on - especially compared to some other manufacturers - and I intend to modify all my rolling stock and locomotives. Cheers.
Thanks Chris, and it was a great conversation we had earlier as well. Good luck with your project and I’ll let you know how I get on with the new couplings, regards Charlie
I've installed Kadees on most of my stock Charlie but some great ideas here for closer coupling on coaches and to buy some NEM pockets off Ebay. No wonder your YT Channel has so many subscribers as it's just so darn helpful and is presented in such a friendly and disarming manner. Thank you so much.
William
What a heartwarming comment William, you’re too kind. Regards Charlie
I started to fit the keen system to my mk3s about a year ago. After quite a bit of surgery I encountered clearance issues between the wheel flanges and the kinematic coupling. With more effort I'm sure they can be made to work. I parked the project at that point and instead have bought some of the hunt couplings which I've not yet fitted. Up to this point I've run my HSTs with the powered car pushing the train. Its not ideal but sure helps with that nasty gap. Freight is a whole separate problem as you demonstrated.
Those oxfords, blimey! Not tried any of their stuff yet. Cheers
Hi Richard,
I had a text from Chris Hunt (Hunt Couplings) asking for a chat regarding my disappointment with my HST coupling gaps. I measured the gap at a little over 4mm and he will make me another set with a 2mm gap.
I left my Keen Mk3s unopened, being yet another “sometime” job.
The Oxford clearances were shocking. I just can’t understand why folks that do reviews have never mentioned it.
Stay safe mate, regards Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Interesting, I guess the issue is navigating the curves. I have a mix of 3rd and 4th radius so will be interesting to see how you get on.
Was aware of the gap on oxford mk3s but not those carflats. Shocking as you say!
I'm safe & well, hope the same applies to you, cheers
Thank you for the coupling video. I have used the Fleischmann Proffi couplings in my fixed rakes of coaches, they go straight into a NEM pocket to be used with the "close coupling mech"
I’m pleased that you have a reliable solution Denis. Regards Charlie
Very nice Charlie very informative , I love your variations to the hobby on certain items , keep posting the videos please they’re very useful to all modelers , thank you .
Thanks Kevin, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for the information and of course the live theatre entertainment as usual. Cheered me up no end as I struggle with my coupling issues. Just spent 3 hours sorting out/modifying the NEM pocket height issue on a brand new Bachman Prairie. These things are sent to try us!
Oo..er - I am using my wife's laptop. Should have shown me as Tidford Junction. PS I am still a Kadee fan.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. The pocket height is a dreadful issue. We live in hope!
Hi Charlie, just a follow up with the couplings. I use black chenille about 10 mm diameter. Drill 2 holes 1.5 mm in the top and base of the edge of the doorways in the centre, cut the chenille and bend it in so it sticks out a little top and bottom. You do this to both mating ends ,it doesn’t catch on anything and shows no gap at any angle. I use this on modern Bachmann coaches using the supplied brake pipe type coupling. Hopefully this helps. I bought a big bag of the chenille on e bay.
Thanks Christy, an interesting option and worth checking out. Regards Charlie
Definitely cool stuff. Rare Earth magnets are getting a lot of use all over the modeling world.
I agree they are just fantastic.
Nice to see you using something I did a year ago with the Bachmann Pipe couplers.👍
Very cool answer Mike.
Hi Charlie. Your homemade magnetic coupling will always fail first as the force being applied is vertical not horizontal (watch the coupling as the pull apart, the magnet lifts before separating). The hunt couplings line up perfectly with the strongest force of the magnet - horizontal.
I did realise that Rodney. However, I still wanted to win, but sadly that wasn’t to be.
Thanks Charlie, love the magnets idea but if you do any switching it is not going to be easy. I decided to go with Kadees (metal, for strength) on my HO for looks and operation. Now on my n scale I use Microtrains couplers. But plan on going to their True scale for unit trains. Thanks for sharing....Jack 👍👍👍
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jack.
I model N gauge and regularly use the buck eye couplings sold by Fleischmann. Fleischmasnn also sell couplings that let you convert others wagons that don’e have the NEM type socket
We also do Hunt Couplings For N gauge - link in description
Thanks Chris
Charlie, On Finescale stock you need sprung buffers to stop buffer lock around tight radius curves. Also they need to be fitted with very soft springs so the buffers are moving as soon as they touch. I remember we all used to use very soft black sponge plugs to fit into the corridor connectors, to hide the gap completly. There was an article in the 60's in the magazine Modal Railway News on how to make and dress the outside of the plug to look like a bellow's connector. Still it keeps us in our bubbles. Next week I might put my toe outside the front door. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I’m pleased that you found it interesting Chris. I will work on the gap between coaches passenger access, once I’ve sorted the couplings.
A little late to the party on this one, but what I've found to be the most effective coupling options for me is as follows:
I use the Keen replacement coupler plate / assembly on the brake ends of all my Bachmann MK1/MK2 coaches as this puts the NEM pocket at the correct height & location for using Kadee couplers. I also use the Keen assembly when inserting Hornby coaches into the middle of a rake of Bachmann coaches. I believe the latest Bachmann coaches have the NEM pocket at the correct location now, but I've not been able to verify.
I use the standard Bachmann vacuum hose on internal couplers, as my rakes are mostly permanent and once on the board, they do not come off... although, I may look into the Hunt couplers going forward.
Everything else, is generally a Kadee #18, as I've found this to be the best fit... with the exception of the Dapol Turbot wagons. Like the Oxford carflats, a standard coupler does not give an acceptable distance between the cars. Dapol however, did include a very short coupling bar that is similar to the Bachmann intermodal coupler, for coupling the Turbots together. I use a Kadee 17 at the ends where the Turbots connect to other stock, and when coupled to a Kadee 18, it provides a reasonably close couple.
I have used the full Keen system on a rake of Hornby Colletts and GWR Centenary coaches with varying degree's of success.
Many thanks, Derek, for such an interesting comment. I have in fact removed all of my keen couplings. I find that using the Hunt couplings a much more reliable commodity.
With my fix rakes I use the Bachman type hose, with a magnetic coupling midway, to assist with maintenance. Regards, Charlie.
+@derekgentle7116
Charlie, all prices are going up. I do not like up the way manufacturers are making 'hay' in the present situation. Brilliant article again.
You’re dead right Nigel. Even Peco points have increased in price considerably. Perhaps now is the time to sell off your old stock on eBay!
Great video again Charlie. I bought some of the hunt couplings recently, pretty pleased with them - a few don't fit well in certain NEM sockets but this is likely down to different manufacturers so need a spot of glue, and some of the magnets came out of their housings which was disappointing for the price paid - still a bit of glue fixed this too. The only downside is needing the polarity to be a certain way for it to work so trains need to be set up the right way round for a loco, but not a massive issue and a big improvement on the standard Hornby / Dapol etc. Thanks, Tom
Yes Tom, they certainly seem to be a step forward.
As someone who models continental trains this is fascinating. Continental manufacturers have been fitting kinematic close coupling and NEM boxes to their freight and passenger cars for decades. The oldest example I have in my collection dates from 1973. And the couplings on that model are also power conducting for interior lighting and direction changing head and tail lights.
Marklin, Roco and Fleishman all sell couplings which are better than Kaydee and any make of coupling will fit any make of rolling stock using standardized NEM boxes. But the couplings from each manufacturer are different so you have to fit the same to each wagon or coach. But they all couple or uncouple easily, although they are designed to stay together over bad points. Fleishman style couplings are also available from Viessman in a power conducting configuration which will still couple with the ordinary ones. Even the power conducting ones couple or uncouple easily without having to leave rolling stock permanently attached.
I believe Hornby sold a knockoff of Roco couplings for a while at an inflated price. I don't know if they still do. I tried them on a rake of Hornby coaches with kinetic close coupling from the factory but Hornby had not worked out the distances properly and they didn't work, derailing the coaches on curves. I never have that issue with continental rolling stock because they do their math properly.
Personally I use Fleishman and Viessman couplings as they are sturdier and stay coupled better over bad track.
A very informative comment, many thanks, Charlie.
Charlie - another great video! When watching, I feel like you are our own personal train professor! I love magnets, glad they are being used more and more for different model train applications!
I am doing my first model train layout and am using earth magnets for my lift up bridge to keep it in place and also for underlayments for steep slopes by DCC Concepts.
I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos Craig.
I agree with Human[c]ity Junction Model Railroad. Most modelers here in the US use Kadee's, and I am no exception. Sherrie
I’m with you on this one Sherrie.
Hi Charlie. Another interesting and entertaining video though a slightly confusing title.....surely you have already established in video 81 that the best NEM couplings are Kadees.
What you are really looking at are kinematic coupling mounts and the best couplers to use with them. In this case you should really be looking at the Roco and Fleischmann close coupling types which have been easily available in the UK for over 30 years. Hornby also offer a near identical copy of the Roco type. I can only think of one advantage Hunt couplings would have over either of the types above: Coupling on curves. Both Roco and Fleischmann types can be 'disengaged' and used for shunting in the same way that a Kadee can.
The Keen System coupling mounts are really designed to be retro fit kinematic systems and used with any NEM pocket coupling and not just the Keen 'knuckle'. These mounts should really have been put onto the Hornby HST in your video and then could have been used with the Hunt NEM, Bachmann bar or the Roco types - or any other number.
If you have not had experience of Roco or Fleischmann close couplers I would urge you to seek some out. They are not the answer to everything - but for rakes of coaches or wagons with kinematic mounts (at the correct height), I think they are great.
Stay safe - I'm off for a look at your new ballasting video now.
An interesting point Andrew, which is much appreciated. The problem with couplings, is of course that there are so many different sorts that it is so difficult to cover them all in these videos. I’ve tended to go for the most common sorts that my followers use having listened to their requests. Stay safe mate regards Charlie
Another great update,it’s a minefield now with so much choice,I’ve just got some Hunt couplings to try out.Spratt and Winkle,the look that followed was straight out of a Carry on film,keep it up and all the best 😂👍
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed my episode on our couplings nightmare.
A company I worked for years ago used neodymium rare-earth magnets for water treatment. A larger size than you are experimenting with. They came with a warning, as they were so strong you could physically get injured if you caught your finger or hand between two magnets. Mighty powerful things.
But great for the modeller Neil.
Excellent overview. Thank you for your efforts!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie
You brits seem to be spoiled by choice but not quality or function. Kadees are by far the best. Another in depth, informative and entertaining video, well done sir!
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Our choice of couplings are a nightmare.
Morning Charlie, on the 'Hunt' Couplings, did you discover the modifrication made to the Hose pipe coupling to the effect that the contacting faces 'ROTATE' to suit the magnetism of each coupling to hold and not repel. I think they are around 19 GBP bag for HST /Close Coupling. When this Lockdown Lunacy is over I'll be looking at an order. I had the same problem with not enough hold on the magnets I got (1mm) 100 of them so I turned them into MU Cables, glued one to the loco connecter point and one each of a fine Orange wire about an inch long. looks good and took care of surplus stock
Yes Wayne the Hunt Couplings are a useful asset. However on my helix the close couplings do present problems on the inner track. Regards Charlie
I wonder, I don't have Helixes down here, (sorry, just one, in the middle of the North Island), I have an idea, if your couplings a letting go on the inside of the helix, it could be that the heads of the coupling are not TWISTING in relation to the two coaches. Got an idea that might work? cut the coupling off the shank, the 'face-up' the two surfaces, drill down the centre of the shaft so that the head/knuckle swivels. It's going to take a bit of experimental strength testing. pinhead in knuckle jaws and rest of pin down shaft, when everything is working, heat end of pin with soldering iron to fix in place n the shaft and the head swivels. Necessity is the mother of convenience or something similar...I'll let you know
Hi Charlie
Many thanks for the reply, it looks like a batch of 3 wagons is the answer.
A good plan Michael.
Hi Charlie, I'm not sure if anyone else has mentioned this but I think if you're going down the route of semi-permanently coupled rakes, you could definitely get away with real miniature chain and brass hooks. Obviously more fidely and time consuming but they stay together very well and can easily adapt to imperfections and undulations in the track. Also, it allows you to keep the existing NEM pockets on the wagons, maybe the first and last in the train retaining original coupling to connect to locos.The main reason though is of course the looks - I don't think anything else compares for me.
An interesting point Otis and one that I shall certainly consider.
Regards Charlie.
Thanks for another great video. An alternative coupling mechanism is the German Ribu system It consists of a KKK box with adjustable height mounted NEM box. (The KKK is Kurzkupplingkinematic, not the US version!)
The box simply is glued to the chassis, great for Hornby coaches with bogie mounted couplings removed. Priced a little high but they work well.
An interesting option Frank, many thanks, regards Charlie
I’ve gone with the hunt couplings and as they update their designs these have got closer so great results with HST close couplings though on the engines, one was loose due to tolerance discrepancies in the manufacturing. It did also catch part of the undercarriage so a little filing did the trick and this was reported to West Hill Wagon Works who were very obliging and sent me a couple more on my next order. Not as much luck with the hornby freight single screw on tension lock replacement types. The hole wasn’t a big enough diameter for the screw and trying to take this out about 0.2mm bigger resulted in it breaking through the surrounding material on two occasions. I was promised an updated product version foc but, that hasn’t happened despite two emails without a response, which is a shame. Loved your narration and video tutorial on the McKinley Railway shunters btw with the kadee cotton motorised uncoupling assembly with ESU programming. Dedication indeed and such a beautiful result.
I'm with you on this one Andy. My HST has never looked better and I have removed all of my Keen Couplings from my Mk2 sets. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie. Just to advise that if your site doesn't register all of the 'hits' from people watching, at least here in Canada, I watch your videos via our apple t.v. RUclips is included on their streaming device, but as far as I have determined, I cannot add any comments or click on any icons while watching on my t.v. set. (only on my computer). I do enjoy your self deprecating sense of humour , but you have provided many great ideas. One of your videos was regarding ballasting and sound transmission through the baseboard. Articles in Model Railroader mentions artists' polymer matte medium as it lasts longer than diluted white glue and gives some flexibility to the track and ballast while some sound deadening qualities . However like many things, there seems to be pros and cons when choosing it over white glue (including the best way to remove it if necessary). Cheers. Ed.
However you watch it, I'm so pleased that you enjoy it Ed.
Hello Charlie,no....not here to knock you this time! A very incisive addition to your videos..I like many others bought a lot of Mr.Keens couplings for a previous layout and found they work very well indeed not only on RTR but a three set brass kit rake of Southern coaching stock-a real bugger to fit,but in the end,got em! I too go with you on the 'HUNT' ones and will refit all my rolling stock with them.Thanks once more for an hours worth of good, interesting entertainment.Best wishes,Larry in Gloucester.
What a heart warming comment Larry.
Couplings, here in the UK, are a real pain for this hobby.
Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie,
Thank you very much for your nice Coupler Ideas of what I never heard before.
Some guys in germany do make experiments with 2 polarity electric couplers using strong magnets and looking like the prototype Scharfenberg coupler head.
Me I am modellinc a fictional privare railway company in the year of 1908 based at Luebeck in northern germany.
During this period of time Luebeck wasen't imperial prussian kingdom terretory.
From 1899 to 1909 the imperial prussian state railway made a general coupling test to use the Krupp Middelbuffer Coupler, which had some similarities to the older Janney Coupler.
My fictional private railway using the new Krupp Coupler of course, too.
I had been compatible to Hook & Chain Coupling with side buffers, the Hook & Chain had been mounted onto side of the middle buffer shaft and could be swinged onto side to use the traditional european Hook & Chain Coupler, too.
Since I read from the general coupler test, I can fitting my era 1 (1835 to 1919) cars prototypely with kadee knuckle coupler or kadee compatible couplers together with side buffers. So the models looking real like the prototype did it, too by using the Krupp Coupler.
Thanks Ingo, I’m pleased you enjoyed the video, however couplings still remain a nightmare. Regards Charlie
So many options out on the market these days in relation to couplings. I will be getting rid of the tension lock coupling on my models and was previously going to go to kadee couplings. Having said that some of these cheaper alternatives are growing on me. A great video Charlie and all the best, Clint
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Clint.
I absolutely LOVE this video. While I am in the US and I know I have made a comment on the previous video about Kadees and my dislike of the uncoupling pin (I have had just too many cause issues at times) I do still like them over other US knuckle options we have here (I really love Rapido MacDonald Cartier ones overall they just do not have spares for sale that I know of) although I do wish the US would use NEM pockets instead. So much easier to change things around. Although I wanted to say that this episode gave me quite a few ideas for how to couple 24' ore cars with a drawbar (will need modifications for using some of what you have shown but I think it would not be super difficult). Some of the railroads would use them in 4 car sets with drawbars on the middle cars. Well done video and thank you for the excellent ideas!! Happy modeling, John
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Couplings remain a nightmare, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Another informative and fun video, thanks, you may have solved a problem I have with my layout. I’d get a derailment on a bend, instinctively I've gone to track fault, which on a couple was the cause; I had not considered buffer lock.
That will be the phone then, I instinctively went to grab my phone (same ring tone), its all good fun.
Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi. Hornby Maunsell coaches come with the kinematic system and the Roco style Close couplings. You can also mix one Hornby with one Roco to get them even closer. Why didn’t you cover the Roco couplings?
As I replied to your other video I love the Shapeways couplings on wagons.
Keep safe Alec
Hi Alec, I left off those couplings as so few people use them here, sorry mate.
@@ChadwickModelRailway With the height difference between some of those coupler heads that's no surprise, as all euro close couplers allow lifting the wagons out of the consist. Any height difference outside tolerances will result in unplanned decoupling
Once again, a very nice video, full of humour and entertaining to boot. Well done.
Thank you Kevin, much appreciated. Regards Charlie
I switched my Bachmann MK 1 & 2s to Keen but only because it puts the NEM at the correct height and then I used Kadees for all my stock. I use those 3d printed NEM boxes on my 4 wheeled wagon stock either on the old Hornby wagons or the Mainline/Bachmann wagons. They seem to work quite well. I will be getting the Hunt couplings for my HST sets as they seem a good compromise.
Hi Scott, I have spoken with Chris Hunt from Hunt Couplings and he is going to manufacture me some shorter HST couplings, for me to trial. So wait until I try them before you buy. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway cheers for the info, I look forward to your review of them.
G'Day Charlie. Mate what can I say, its a bloody minefield when it comes to couplings. Well presented as always, thanks.
I think that is why I just stick to the one type, which is of course Kadee's. Yep even on coaches, to me its more about the reliability as well as the versatility of Kadee couplings. So far I've not seen another system that can allow the operator to uncouple and re-couple rolling stock at will on the layout without involving the "Hand of God" somwhere. At least with the kadee system you can use perma-magnets (or the electro) under the track anywhere you like and not even see where you have installed them (except for where you "Sign Post" your uncoupling spot). Or you can even go the rout like McKinley has with the "Auto coupling" with Kadee's. Can't say the same for the rest of them though.
You make a good point G130, KDS are certainly my choice whenever I need a freight solution.
I use the Fleischmann Profi couplings. Rolling stock with NEM-short coupling pockets only. Looking sort of OK, technical, not actually realistic and even perhaps a bit agricultural. But they do the job well, carriages can be lifted out of a train like with KaDee's. Uncoupling is mechanical, plastic, no magnetic touch to it. Cheap, I have lots of loco's and carriages. Yet, this is for the continental trains. For the fewer British stuff I have ( Smaller lay out ) I'm considering Kadee. Partly because of your vid on these. Looking great, curious to see how they work for me.
I’m pleased that you found a solution to this dreadful situation. These wretched UK couplings are a nightmare. Regards Charlie
Really good idea numbering videos!
Thanks mate.
Good video. It's where you pulled the carriages from that affected the uncoupling.
I’ve re-done it But the outcome was the same David.
Very interesting video Charlie, thanks. Never given couplings much thought.
I wish that I hadn’t either Pete.
Hi Charlie,Des from Down Under.Enjoyed your video once again.I tend to use a mixture of coupling types.Haviing started,or should I say restarted,I use Roco close coupling/Nem pockets system components on my stock.I tend to use the Roco close coupler for passenger stock (Hornby use a very similiar coupler,but it is a bit bigger(HO as opposed to OO)For goods stock I have converted a lot of my British outline to the Roco type of coupler assembly .At present I have been looking at the Hunt system and also those Bachmann/Earth Magnet type of system you have described very well,the only disadvantage I can see over here the cost is expensive.My HST has been converted on the engine to a close coupling system used by Roco as a spare part which is available as a spare part.and it works well.I do like the system you have used with the earth magnets/Bachmann coaching bar.Hope I have not been too long winded,but in conclusion I would love a a world wide universal coupling system that would be acceptable to all...............yes i know I'm dreaming.kindest regards Des.
Hi Des, Yes a worldwide standard solution is too much to ask for. Good luck with your layout, regards Charlie
Have you tried the Hornby magnetic couplers ? From what I can see on photos there are two magnets each side which I assume will eliminate the rejection problem. And a problem WILL arise if a return loop is on the layout and consists are spilt in either direction.
Yes GC, I have used them. Please check out my video number 217.
Great video Charlie, I have used the home made magnet on the cut pipe system for about 5 years now on most of my coach stock, occasionally it comes out of the fiddle yard a couple of coaches short of a rake but rarely, and it’s cheap and looks right. I would not use it for rakes of more than 9 coaches though.
Thanks for the reassuring comment. Regards Charlie.
Great video, some really good info for me and my rolling stock, thank you. I use Fleischmann Profi & Roco couplings, I agree with you those Hornby HST couplings are horrendous! I would be interested if you ever looked at adding coach bellows as well...perhaps a future vid...!?
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and yes I will be looking at some bellows in the future
The more I see on shapeways, the more impressed I am. I also build military models and 3D printing is a game changer. Shapeways is a great alternative for plastic parts until I can learn Autocad Fusion 360 well enough to reliably design my own products.
They do look the part W46
Brilliant video Charlie
Think Gibs Onethirty sums it up well - Kadees are my preferred couplings because of the 'Hands Free' operation and push shunting....
Keep up the excellent work, stay safe & well..........
Regards, Nigel at west hatton model railway.
Thanks Nigel, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Another good, informative and amusing video Charlie. It's such a shame that manufacturers don't standardise on a coupling system and/or follow the standards provided. Imagine cars having proprietary petrol pump/fuel tank interfaces! You'd think that any perceived downside to inter-manufacturer compatibility would be equally felt by all applicable model makers; likewise the gain. In a world of ever increasing model railway control technology and attention to aesthetic detail the elephant in the room persists. Man got to the moon over half a century ago and yet (in the UK at least) we can't couple adjacent model rail vehicles realistically without a fight.
What an excellent comparison Paul. These couplings remain a nightmare to us all.
Great video as always Charlie. To answer your question about how much it would cost to 3D print a coupling. You would want to print it with an FDM (Filament) printer, not the MSLA (liquid resin) printer. The cost of filament varies, but a good rule of thumb is about US$20 per kg (between £18-£20 per kg). I've done replacement couplings for the Eurostar, and they run a fraction of a penny per coupling, and those are a bit bigger than a normal NEM coupling. Couplings are definitely a problem that nobody has really nailed down yet. I've actually had about 2000+ or so small magnets laying around for various projects (including couplings) for the better part of a year. I don't really see the point of static couplings. You can get about 100-200 small magnets from Amazon for under $10, so I'm pretty sure I can 3D print functional magnetic couplings for between 3p and 7p each (with the magnet in it). As for those Bachmann drawbar couplings, you can produce something much better for about a half penny in material per coupling. Stay tuned to my channel, I'm almost done with the Trackside3D website updates, so that will free up my time to wrap up the umpteen 3D printing projects I have on the go :)
Brilliant OO Rail, please keep me posted.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Will do. I just wrapped up my kids' synthetic ice rink (for hockey) in the basement at 3am this morning. Also means I have somewhere to air brush now. So I'm off to grab breakfast and then its full steam ahead on model railway projects. I'll keep you updated. :)
Interesting video.
I think Lego nailed it with their coupling system with a rotating magnet, no worry about getting the poles right.
👍👍
Good point Stig.
Hi Charlie. Another great and informative video as usual, and my first comment to you too. Regarding the Modal (4)couplings I think these may designed for use on the Modern container wagons which run in fixed formations, and the 'inner' wagons have no buffers to lock. Just a theory as I have none. I'm currently experimenting with Hunt couplings and find they can be used for selective purposes i.e fixed rakes and quick to uncouple when required. Also although A & B markings are small to see, you'll find the 'A's are coloured Gold & the 'B's Silver. Hope this helps people.
I too believe that these couplings have great potential. I hadn't noticed to colours though Brian.
Hi Charlie, great video for magnet issues i.e north,north,south,south redling each other if you use a ball magnet on
one end of a a coupling it will stick to the north or south poles oand even each other and offers some compliance.
On the test you did at the end the failiure was more that rotationanl force through the coupling rather tha a streight pull which is not (prototypical) oops
I do understand that the test was not fair because it wasn’t a straight pull. However, it was a fair test after all because that was she are putting pressure. And what I’ve written doesn’t make any sense at all!
I love watching your videos, and you’re probably my favourite channel I choose to watch. I would like to see more videos relating on the progress of your layout rather than renumbering locomotives and getting disappointed with the distance between your wagons. Saying that I would like it if you did a video on track cleaning as it would be really interesting to know what you use, and why. Kind regards Ian’s I I
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the videos Ian. If you look for McKinley Railway on RUclips they’ve recently produced a video on track cleaning.
That’s the problem, everyone has a different opinion in what to use, or what not to use regarding abrasives, chemicals, and different type of rail v
Re the comment under, I should really proof read before sending, it's Kupplung, not Kuppling, slappy wrist.
Many years ago I read an article about a Swiss exhibition H0 layout. They used clothing press studs as couplings....now that is very cheap!
Thanks for all your videos
I hadn’t noticed Frank, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, great video as usual. I have used the Bachman pipe couplings and neomagnets as you used. Never thought of doing what you did with them. The hunt coupling magnets look to have a larger surface area which is possibly why they have more attraction. Anyway, I run 6 coach sets so will try your idea.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Christopher, good luck with your project.
Hi Charlie as always informative and entertaining . What annoys me is that there is not an industry standard for the height which makes using any type of coupling difficult . At the moment I have a mix of NEM & non NEM couplings so will probably give hunt couplings a try on coaches and wagons which I wont use for shunting.........……...Keep safe ----- Cheers Kev
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Kev. Couplings remain a nightmare.
Stick a bit of big pipe cleaner vertically at the back of the door and you’ll never see a gap between the coaches. I’ll send you a picture of the arrangement if you want. You can buy this stuff at the kid’s craft section at Tesco.
Thanks Christy, I shall certainly check it out. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, I'm not a railway modeller, but I have found the coupler discussion fascinating. I have seen on RUclips Ree magnetic couplings which look very effective, but you make no mention of them. But like you say, there are so many variations out there, you could write a book on the subject. Best wishes!
Hi Finlay, I do own a set of magnetic couplings I use them on both my Pullman cars, and a set of Mark two coaches. They do seem very efficient. However, on my freight stock the KD’s win every time. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie good video once again just one point buffer lock happens with reverse where a vehicle passes over a curve in one direction and then immediately there is a refresh curve in the opposite direction allowing one buffer to move around the opposite one and lock up. This can occur in the 1:1 world and minimum. Radius are specified in the track Design handbook to avoid this issue. Would not be on the mainline but in sidings and depots
A great point Gary, I always seem to forget about the point crossovers for buffer lock.
Very interesting. Wondering if you would have seen a NEM extender that gets left on a individual cars? A short plug male/female, that just extends the length on one car? The issue I have is with Fleischmann cars and engines going around some curves with the bumpers coming into contact on the inside of the curve and lifting the inner wheels off the track. This happens only with certain combinations of cars and engines but is consistent to their use. The next step would be to dissect two dozen couplers to insert spacing plugs. Thoughts? Ideas? PM
Yes Patrick, buffer clash can be a real problem on tight curves.
However, I have never heard of a system of extending the NEM coupler. Clearly a coupling with a longer shaft is what is required or perhaps shortening of the buffer stocks. Regards Charlie
This is great..I found it difficult in older trains that in reverse, they tend to push off the track on corners...
David Sheriff I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie I hope that you are doing well .You have now convinced me that Hunt couplings are worth while .They are the winners by far . The telephone call was all you needed not .I know the feeling. Best of luck with your railway and see you again soon
Thanks Paul, I’m so pleased you enjoyed it. I’ve put a link to Hunt Couplings in the show more tab. Regards Charlie
Great as always Charlie 👍🏻 Have a lovey safe weekend. See ya next Friday 👍🏻
Stevie, it’s a date, see you Friday.
It's so darned complicated. Even on this side of the pond, we've been besieged by different takes on the Kadee standard. And none seem to improve on the Kadee. I understand that the Kadee coupler doesn't really conform with either the look or the function of European version, but there seems to be tons of possible solutions. Good job, Charlie.
The couplings nightmare continues Pat.
Hi Charlie, great watchable video as always, I know you are more of a modern image modeller than me but Hornby do make kinematic couplers on the Maunsell coach stock. Hornby provide Roco couplers as well as tension lock for each coach and I've found that they work quite well, easy to split up just by lifting vertically. Cheers stay safe.
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Couplings remain a nightmare. Regards Charlie
Charlie, I do like and enjoy your very friendly mannerisms, I feel that you are talking to just me.
That’s very kind of you to say so John.
Regards Charlie.
I use the bachmann dmu couplers .they are similar to the continental type model couplers they are smaller profile,they couple closer for better scale distance and are easier to uncouple with a hand uncoupler such as a thin piece of hooked wire or a bamboo skewer with a notch cut in .they are approx 10 quid for pack of 10 which is a lot of money but they work well .
Good point M.
Another good overview of the minefield of couplings.
The hunt couplings look a good product, especially with the new elite version.
For us finescale modellers as well as the Spratt and winkle, there's a few others such as dingham (my choice probably), dg and Alex Jackson. As well as of course functional 3link and screw couplings which some favour.
Regardless of what you model be it fine or otherwise, it will always to some extent be a personal choice between ease of use and cost. I will probably use the hunt couplings on units (though I do wish they'd made the look more akin to buckeye or shefenberg types as used on the railway.
An interesting comment, many thanks.Yes the Hunt Couplings are very attractive when compared with our dreadful standard alternative. If only the manufacturers could form a coalition and find a way forward on this one.
I thought I had coupler problems. You guys sure have more than we do in the states. Either way it is horrible how much things such as this’d costs so very much. Since I left n scale modeling I had Rapido paddle couplers. Fast forward and now day’s we have knuckle couplers. About time I took my break Kadee was relatively new. They commanded a high price. Good video. Take care and this will be nonsense some be over soon.
Great comment Ken.
Spot on. Thank you Charlie 🙂 Very informative
Thanks Edward, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My only challenge now is how to upgrade 40-50 year old stock away from the enormous drop links they have now! 🤔 If I get a good solution I'll let you know...😅
Please do and good luck.
Edward Walton Bespoke You could try a combination; one drop link and a magnet each side, pairing with the next wagon to have a three link (with the blob in the middle being an instanter link).
Love your down to earth videos, all my coaching stock is 1980s/early 1990s mainly Mainline & Airfix so living in Christchurch New Zealand it is very hard to find anything to replace the existing tension couplings, so you have to just suck it up! Kadee is about £7.50 a pack.
The prices today Alan are clearly shocking. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, thank you for another interesting and informative Video! Your channel is one of my favorites on RUclips! All the best to you and your family! Best wishes from Germany Günter
Thanks Gunter, I’m so pleased that you enjoy all of my videos.
Hi Charlie, Thank you for an informative video... However, despite your best efforts, I will probably carry on using tension lock couplings as I find them cheap to buy (secondhand), easy to fit and very reliable. I don't much like NEM pockets but am stuck with a few newer wagons on which they are fitted...Most of my rolling stock being thirty to forty years old and came with my favorite couplings fitted as srandard. I am thinking about Spratt and Winkle, but probably will not make the change now.
Sometimes we are where we are with couplings. Good luck with your layout regards Charlie
Excellent Video Charlie. As we have come to expect.
You’re too kind Paul thank you.
Hello! I am from India. My dad and I are interested in model railroads. We already have a few locos, and some rolling stock. We are planning on building a fixed layout. I feel that this channel will be a great addition to our knowledge of model railroads. Thank you for your videos. I would like to show you our latest try at layout and have your thoughts on it.
Then you just need to start your own RUclips channel. Then we can all see your progress, good luck to you and your father.
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank you very much for your reply.
I will try.
Great series Charlie. You're fast becoming my reference Go To guy :)
Don’t make me blush Dominic.
Well done Charlie. A great summation of this problematic and messy subject.
The base problem is there are too many variables. You have the variation in manufacturers standards, both between different brands but coupling variation by the same brands over time. Then you have the variation in markets. For the toy market tension lock is cheap and proven and probably visually acceptable. Then for the serious models market you have the layout to layout variation in curves severity and the individual owner's tolerance to vehicle spacing. Then, finally, you have the uncoupling question - the need (or non-need) for which hinges on a fresh set of variables such as era modelled (loco+train vs multiple units) end to end or round and round operation, passenger versus frieght, fixed point uncoupling or uncouple-anywhere ....and probably other things. In light of all those variables it is small suprise that there is no ideal answer!
I think if I could somehow wipe the slate clean, I would say NEM pockets on all vehicles at a standard height, with some kind of Kadee type coupling, but all engines/traction cars must have an inbuilt micro-solenoid which the decoder can activate to uncouple via a DCC command. Such systems do exist, but I think the cost of those and the sheer volume of legacy models which are around make it unrealistic to get to such a standardisation in our lifetimes!
ruclips.net/video/R479HMc2fi0/видео.html
Hi Alan, you are certainly pushing on an open door on this one.
I couldn't agree more. Regards Charlie
Im glad we on same page this time,last was not good for me. My old layout is 30ftx 2.....so no real way to expand it...need the other foot for me! Keep it up!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Larry. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Another excellent video review. I remember seeing the 3 link coupling video and thinking they looked amazing. I have operated exhibition layouts with sprat and winkle couplings and they are ideal for shunting wagons with strategic magnets placed in the track.
Keen couplings I've experienced are very good, a bit fiddly to get spot on but worth it in the end.
The kadee couplings are probably the best prototypical looking and with a vast variety available, there is something for most needs.
I'm glad you fitted a set of Hunt (careful how you say that) couplings to a HST. I was going to get a few sets but I won't bother now. A note on the HST though, the new mk3s have nem pockets wether that would make any difference......
Thanks again
Actually Hunt Couplings now make couplings which fit HST NEM pockets
HI Charlie.
Just like a real Railway buffer lock ,there was one road in particular in Inchicore railway works where this was a common occurrence with Havsbourg wagons, a Forklift was the usual tool to lift and separate them.
Ret Irish Rail Craftsmen.
I'm so pleased that you found it interesting Derek.
Interesting video, thanks Charlie
Glad you enjoyed it Neal.
The Kadee company was started by 2 brothers. Some time during my break in the Hobby Kadee split one brother kept Kadee (the larger scales). The other took N and Z scales. They still aren’t cheap. But when all the cars you buy have them you are given no choice. Rail on my friend.
Good info, thanks Ken.
Available in OO gauge, but in my case uin N gauge, I have for many years used DG Couplings. My main operation is uncoupling but on my layout where rakes of up to 60 wagons are run, I use my own homemade hook and eye couplings on wagons in groups with a DG serarating them, and on pick up goods wagons I use solely DGs.
I have to agree that couplings from the manufactuers are absolutely visually horrible, especially in N gauge.
Thanks for the interesting info Charlie.
Stay safe
Cheers, Bob
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob. Couplings remain my nightmare.
🤔I couldn't find those pipe couplers anywhere on the internet would you happen to have a link for them, great video by the way 👍
Yes, they’re available from the website called James train parts. Then shop, then couplings.
Regards, Charlie
I really like the idea of a rake of wagons with Kaydee couplings at the end. But how about some modified 3d printed coupling with magnets as well. so you do a rake of 3 then a magnet coupling and rake of 3. ( I like 3 wagon rakes they tend to fit in one hand )
Another sensible option AG.
I was looking forward to you putting up a video on these after asking you a little while ago. Thank you, great video, great advice as always...stay well
I am so pleased that you enjoyed it Simon.
Hi Charlie,
Here in the US we used to have what were called Rapido couplers, which were distinctively ugly and unpleasant to deal with. I tend to buy used rolling stock and if the cars do not have Kadees on them that is the first thing I change on them. There are knock offs of the Kadees from McHenry and Acumate, both of which use plastic components and so uncouple far more easily than the Kadees, albeit they are cheaper. There are a few others that offer Kadee type couplers but I rarely see them. Thankfully we do not have the tension type couplers in the US.
Two great nations separated by couplings.
One thing that frustrates myself and my partner is that with any magnetic coupling, we have to remember or mark each carriage as to which end the "A" end is, then we have to ensure every carriage is the same way.
Not an easy job with over 100 carriages, and hence we are sticking with Kadees
Hunt couplings as well as the letters A and B are also coloured ends silver and gold so you put silver to gold 'Simples'
But surely you cannot be taking so many coaches on an off of your layout?
I never noticed the gold and silver magnet ends.
With the era of Mk.1 coaches that I model, the carriages have a left and a right side, hence a front and a back, as there are more doors (and any corridors) on the left platform side of the carriages than on the right. So I already have to think front and back when assembling a long rake. I use the Japanese bookcase storage boxes, so my carriages are always stored the correct way around. It makes life much easier.
@@ChadwickModelRailway not this year, but up until COVID19 started we had 5 bookings for the layout this year.
Very interesting Charlie, thank you as this gives me additional options to look at 😊.
Here to please Paul
Excellent video explaining about couplers. Not trying to sound to bad, what do you mean by “first radius curve”? You did a great job showing how things work. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Peco/Hornby make four different set-track radius curves. First radius is the tightist with a radius of 371mm / 14 5/8 inches
Thanks for that info.
TUG O' WAR COUPLINGS
Charlie, only just viewed this episode....
Methinks you did yourself a disservice here....
You held the right-hand coach, (your coupling magnet), stationary and pulled the left-hand coach, (Hunt coupling magnet), and with it the middle coach, to the left. Your coupling between the middle coach and the right-hand coach was therefore always bound to give way first.
True Chadwick Test Plant Operations would see, say, four coaches, (magnetic coupling at the centre point), with one end tethered to a fixed point, and the other end connected to the HST Power Car.
One test with the Hunt coupling......then the other with yours.........
With a steady pull in each test from the power car, (stop watch in camera optional), this would be a more comparative test.
As an extra test you could tether the fixed coach with an elastic band, which I think would mimic the small tensile stress / pulling power on a model railway.....
I reckon the results might not be that different .....but hey, what do I know.....?
Just a thought....
James Hennighan
Yorkshire, England
P.S.
On reflection the elastic band tether at one end might be a better test since it could be argued that it's elastic action represented a Power Car pulling in the opposite direction to the Powered Power Car at the other end.
Hi James, thank you very much for such an interesting comment. Eventually my home-made ones, gave up completely. Regards Charlie
It must be Friday, great video again Charlie thanks
Thanks Iain I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Very interesting video! Thanks for sharing Charlie!! Cheers Onno.
It’s great to know you’re still out there Onno.
Once again Charlie a very informative and interesting video! This video together with others you did on couplers should help me with some issues I have/replacing the rapido couplers on my rolling stock. Thanks!
I’m so pleased that you found it useful
Another legendary video Mr Bishop 😂😎
You know me Chris, here to please.
Great video! I'm sticking with tension lock for the moment, but your video has spurred me on to find an alternative for the Oxford Rail Carflat's I recently bought.
I don’t blame you, I thought those Oxford rail wagons had terrible couplings.
Great video. 3d printing wise it would definitely be possible with a good printer for the 3 link couplings however the bachmann one you showed before would be even easier both would cost a penny or so to produce
So are you going to accept the challenge then?
3d printers are not upto scratch, it will be at least 10 years before theyre as good as injection molding techniques.