Laying and Ballasting Track and Points at Chadwick Model Railway | 93.
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Laying and ballasting track including Peco's Code 75 Bullhead Track was pretty simple here at Chadwick Model railway.
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Now finish it, and build a micro railway on it!! :-D I think the bull head track is awesome! Definitely using this stuff for my next layout. :-)
Also, one of the things I tend to do, is to always ballast the points and crossovers first, so that I'm moving any access ballast away from the point. And when gluing the point, to have a bit more water/washing up liquid sprayed over a few times after main gluing, just to free up the top fine surface of glue around the blades. Also, because ballasting can be quite a tedious task, to get the more delicate areas done while my attention is 100% seams to work for me. :-)
A great point Sammy to ballast points while you’re fresh.
I've always been pretty good at ballasting. Thanks for the video though, It's been a while since I did any. There was a big discussion on RMWeb about the best way to ballast, although at least one layout on there has been built according to the method shown here.
@@DJ_K666 m
I have a trick I use for protecting points while ballasting, I use a 60-70/40-30 mix of paraffin and crisco shortening, cast it into some thin sheets and layer it in the areas where you want clearance and do not want any ballast or pva to get to. You do have to be gentle with it, but the glue does not stick to it and it keeps the ballast away from where you do not want it. It also makes sure there is enough clearance to ensure good action. When everything is all dry and set, simply use a hairdryer on low heat to melt it out. I have not used Peco track or points yet, but have had no problem with heat deforming the ties since it is such a low melting point (104F 40C)
Sorry TS but what is crisco shortening?
@@ChadwickModelRailway It is a solid vegetable baking fat - I think a common UK equivalent is Trex - I hope that makes sense.
You know you've been in lockdown too long when Charlie on the spoons passes for entertainment! ;-) ;-)
Now that really did make me laugh.
if he plays the metal sheet and sings "tie me kangaroo down sport" then ill be seriously impressed!!!!
Hi Charlie - I had the problem you identified concerning the lifting and relaying of the bullhead track when glued down with Copy Dex. It is is indeed quite fragile compared to bog standard track and I needed to lift and relay a pair of points. After a bit of headscratching and several failed attempts, I tried using a 2" decorating scraper - the one with the sharp / bevelled edge. I carefully inserted it under an end edge of the point and with very careful and gradual pressure both longitudinal and laterally, the tool lifted the point without too much fuss. If you have wire connected to the frog or rails on the underside, be careful you don't contact it and cut the insulation or indeed cut right though the wire. I suppose you can get decorators scrapers from many sources, but I got mine from B&Q Yeovil, a favourite venue of yours I believe. Love your channel and be assured that you were the trigger to me getting back into the hobby, so when Chris, my wife, starts moaning I just blame you!
I’m so pleased that you were able to modify your track plan, without too much trouble. Rest assured Copydex will be easier to lift than some of the more aggressive glues. Keep on blaming me, and good luck with your project.
I used to work on the railway in the Divisional Civil Engineers Office and had many opportunities to level and survey old railway lines that still had bullhead track laid down. This was way back in the 70's before most track was replaced with long welded track, anchored with Pandrol Clips. The bull head from Peco looks absolutely beautiful and, with the ballast, also looks authentic. I prefer to model GWR steam era models but as yet don't have a layout. After seeing this video, I will be using Peco bullhead rail. Thanks for yet another brilliant video Charlie.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed the video Kevin. Stay safe, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, some 60 odd years ago I was introduced to model trains aset of stream Loco 2335 a pacific. Life was such that alth interest stated life pressures dictated nothing more. No I am near 73 and physically challenged I have the time but now to physically challenged to crawl under base boards etc. I cannot begin to explain the sheer joy of watching your Chanel & Everard. They have in a way become "my" layouts. I thank you for the joy you provide me. You are a blessing.
What a wonderful comment Tim, I am really touched. Thank you regards Charlie
Good demo. I would not have expected the glue to seep thru the cork. Glad you mentioned it.
Every day is a school day mate, regards Charlie
Very good tip to pin track on the outside of the rails not in the centre of the sleepers. Still have to be careful not to pull the chairs off the rail though. I like to use an archimedes drill for drilling with such fine bits: could never get the hang of pin vices - I'm always prone to putting too much pressure on.
I've never used the bullhead track: looks so much better than regular Streamline. Didn't realise the fishplates were so tiny! Compared to regular model railway fishplates, they certainly are sexy! :D
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Andrew
Woodland Scenics makes ballast to, generally, follow US practice. Where coarser material is used to build up a base, or to protect embankments and the like. This will be seen in places where a low area, say 1-1.5m needs spanning, and a headwall of timber is laid athwart the track line at about the height of the break. Trestles will follow after the head wall, but behind it, will be fills of coarse roack, then a intermediate size, and then the road ballast atop all that.
Some US roads also used some sketchy material as ballast, from as fine as shingle to coarse as rip-rap, and the colors sometimes reflected the nearby geology. Some roads, east of the Mississippi, used different kinds of ballast based on the use of the line. So a main line might be in a crushes white limestone, and secondary track, into a lay-by siding, or off to a yard, might be in a dark granite, or even coal mining spoil.
Good background info, many thanks.
nice one charlie I've said before i like the way you show up any mistakes you may have made well done mate.
Glad you enjoyed it Tony.
Hi Charlie...Apologies for earlier gobbledegook...The item I was referring to was on Andy,s website at MODEL RAILWAY ENGINEER and the title is : HOW TO EASILY FIT RAIL JOINERS PERFECTLY, EVERYTIME..
Good luck with everything and I very much appreciate your wonderfully clear explanations + the comedy...Lol
You’re too kind Martin.
Another well made instruction video charlie for those that are new to the hobby.
Thanks GMR
Really excellent presentation on the virtues of flextrack. Thank You.
It’s the best way to go Scott.
I love your comments on gluing the cork with the books! They are so British. A true pleasure.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Dear Charlie, Greeting from the USA! Thank-you so much for all your videos! I am new to the hobby and am finding your videos absolutely perfect for getting myself educated enough to being assembling my first model railroad layout. Your explainations are so well spoken and carefree it has made it wasier for me to get enjoyment out of the hobby. Thanks again! Rob
Thanks Rob, what a heartwarming comment. Regards Charlie.
Charlie, Full size ballast circa 50's to 70's has approx 8 chunks of ballast between each sleeper; this is very close to 'fine' ballast. It also makes the incorrect spacing of sleepers (HO) look much better. Really enjoy the series. Rob
Thanks Rob, much appreciated. Regards Charlie
I agree with your comments on the set track, I have only used it where I took the track down to the storage yard, stuck for space and where I could not afford to take a chance of having a sharper radius than 438 mm.
Okay Sam.
I think the redeeming feature of the smaller fishplates being that you don't need to butcher the chairs on the end sleeper to get them on far enough.
A fair point Matt. Regards Charlie
Such a good video. Thanks Charlie. I learnt that streamline track can be closer to an adjacent parallel track than 67mm. Vital for me as I am designing a new layout in a tight space. I googled that 51mm is in fact the standard for streamline track - and what the handy Pico gauge provides.
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful Andrew. Regards, Charlie
Charlie ! I finally had some time to watch this video! WOW ! I have watched this one more than once. You did a great job ballasting thru the point and the gluing too ! I never knew how to do the gluing of the turn out . The metal spoon trick is a real game changer for me !! Thanks a million Charlie !
Thanks Jeff, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
Looks nice at this point. Thank you.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed the video Juha Evesti. Stay safe, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie I have watched every one of your highly enlightening and educational videos; being new blood at Scale Railway building I needed serious education. I am starting at 70 years old a 3mtr x 4mrt split level layout, 1960s to 1970s era so it will involve steam and early desiels. Most of what I will require such as base boards will be pre-made. One thing I heard you mention was the noise issues with layouts; I belive I have found a remedy of major noise reduction, it involves a x2 layer method using 1" honeycombs twin sided cardboard sheeting topped with a 6mm insulation foam sheeting. Both are easy to cut, glue and are solid stable base for gluing the track to without corking. I have photos and videos of the difference is noise but have no idea how to put these on RUclips. My past modelling history is the scratch and kit building of both RC Scale ships and helos; needless to say I am clued up on electronic control and will be automating 50% of my layout using arduino micro-controllers based on the NEC Dcc system.
If you want photos and videos of the noise reduction method please let me know. You are ex navy I am ex army read between the lines when I request info on the following parts:
Hornby R6202 R4769 R470 reverse switch points are good.
I know I cannot give my contact details but "it is what it is".
Hi Michael, that’s a very interesting solution to the noise problem. Sadly for me, it’s a bit too late as 90% of my layout is now built. However, when yours has made substantial progress, please email me the info at Chadwick model railway@gmail.com. Regards, Charlie
Excellent yet again. Concise, factual and informative. Good pace. FYI I have a hopper but its dispensing rate seems more suited to code 100 with deeper sleepers. On code 75 it seems to dispense too much, but your vacuum cleaner trick with ladies attire attachment works a treat to remove excess with careful positioning of the vacuum nozzle. That Bullhead looks fab, I'd have loved to use it but sadly Peco have so few point variants yet in bullhead. Hope you got the link on the other video thread for the 3mm foam. Love watching your videos, no nonsense tutorials that are waffle free.
Great comment OF. I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel. Yes I’m investigating the foam thanks.
Great video Charlie.. Cheers
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jim
Like the fishplates, yes they are small and look to be a bit more work but they look great....thanks for showing them. I like useing school glue for holding cork and track too, this is easy with a little water and time it come up easy and clean....thanks for sharing....Jack it's nice to see how others handle track laying & ballesting, as I always learn something👍
Glad you enjoyed it Jack
good job Charlie
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
nice video thanks for the instruction and suggestions...
I’m so pleased that you found it useful William.
I gotta say this Peco bullhead track is gorgeous stuff. I have a small shunting layout built with it and love it.
I couldn’t agree more. Regards Charlie.
Fine job and clear explanations... thank youCharlie!
You’re most welcome mate. Regards Charlie
Well done Charlie thank you for another excellent video...like many others loved the comment on the sexy points , I cant wait for your video on seductive signal boxes and dirty diesels ...
Oh, dirty diesels, now you're talking!
Your tempting me to come back to the hobby after a 9 year absence :-)
No pressure, When photography became my occupation I lost my hobby. That’s when railway modelling came back into my life. Regards Charlie
Well done Charlie.
Thank very much David Horne. Regards Charlie
Never looked at a point and thought ‘sexy’ 😆😆😆 until now 👀😂 great video Charlie 👍🙌🏻
Very controversial, come on it made you smile.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Checking the price on the Peco website was very effective at wiping the smile off my face.
Thank you so much for your excellent and entertaining videos.
Wading in on the subject of "settrack vs streamline/flextrack", I would say it's not what you use, it's how you use it. I have seen excellent railway models build with settrack, with ballasted permanent way, cuttings and embankments grassed and landscaped, beautiful buildings, even cityscapes. That said, I am using code 75 bullhead on the layout I am starting now, inspired by Chadwick, Everard and Dean Park. Here in Canada, almost every home has a basement, and half of ours is "unfinished", just begging for a railway!
My chosen era is one based on a dim memory from my childhood - watching one of the last regular steam trains pull out of Lincoln St Marks in the early 60s - era 5. I am not going to model an actual prototype, but base my locations on chosen prototypes as best I can within the limitations of my space. finances and capabilities.
I’m so pleased that you find the channel useful Dominic.
Very informative as I an still at the planning stage lots of ideas to think about thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Carl. Regards Charlie.
Fantastic tip about pinning track on the outside edges rather than in the middle of the sleeper - I'd never thought of that!
When it comes to gluing, I tend to use a smallish PVA bottle, as the nozzle is as fine as a pipette but with a much larger reservoir of liquid. Same precision, fewer refills. Each to their own!
A good point Matthew.
Always a pleasure to watch...thanks Charlie, regards, Chris
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris stay safe regards Charlie
It’s hard to believe British Rail put cork under all the railway lines up and down the country and I never noticed. 😆 Only kidding Charlie. I enjoy your videos and appreciate all the good work that goes into producing such amazing and convincing layouts. 👍🏻 from me! Keep them coming! 🇬🇧
You’re too kind Steven. Regards Charlie
Had a good laugh with you choosing the 'appropriate' words, LOL
It was a nightmare. P1234, as you realised. Regards, Charlie
I don't have a Honda CB 250 G5 valve since I have a Honda CB 700. My Stanley nail set seems to work pretty good.
Gorilla glue expands as it dries but it holds better than anything else. I tend to use construction adhesive.
Interesting info Dave.
Thank you for a very informative track laying video, I'm thinking of doing my first layout so found your explanation very helpful.
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful Phil. Regards, Charlie
Excellent video for a newcomer to the hobby, like me! Thank you so much
You’re most welcome Stephen.
Regards Charlie
Tip Bend a piece of rail and use this to put one side of the fish plate onto, then it makes it a lot easier to locate the other end onto the rail. Then pull off the bent rail, leaves it located.
Great tip Sam.
Great video Charlie. I feel your pain with the fish plates. It's even worse if you cut the yard lengths into scale 60 foot lengths. Lots more fish plates. I like the uni frog points too but I discovered that if you lay it unmodified like you have both directions are live regardless of the way the blades are set. Discovered that the hard way when I tried to park a loco switched the blades aganste it and it still moved. Mabey a sign I should use DCC lol
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Matt. Did you find the video was too long? Some folks wanted a blow by blow account but I’m just trying to test the water. Regards Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway absolutely not too long from my point of view. I found it really useful. As long as your happy to spend as long filming and editing it works for me.
Another great video. Still think you should do a video on track cleaning with your unique talent of presentation😊
I will Ian, once I have a complete circuit.
I’m looking forward to it. 👍
Thanks Charlie. I use a 50/50 mix of medium and fine ballast. I also use a small bottle that comes with my wife’s hair colour to spread the glue. The spout is about the same diameter as the pippett (?) you use, but because it’s attached to a bottle, it saves having to constantly reload.
Great tip RB thanks.
Ballasting... now it's getting intresting.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Important tip - please remember to make sure that your various bottles of Mod Podge have something in them or their ability to act as weights may be effected. Another great video Mr Bishop. Hope you and your loved ones are well.
You too mate.
Well done avoiding the use of the "P" word. Loving the Bullhead rail and those points look so "authentic". Keep up the great work I really enjoy your videos.
Thank you very much BL.
Oh Charlie where have the last 2 vids been.. wish they were on earlier, as now retired and of course catching with my lost youth down here in oz. Your right about consists go one way and not the other. Keep up the great work mate.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it
Smashed it again Charlie
Thanks Chris.
Nice one.
I think one of the most beneficial aspects of flexitrack is the ability to use transition curves. Start off shallow and get tighter into the curve so you don't get an abrupt change of direction.
I would always tape over the tie bar area so there is no risk of anything getting into that area.
One thing you might think about in respect to track noise. If you use foam underlay to reduce the noise, then ballast the track and fix with PVA, you will bridge the foam underlay with a rigid adhesive. I use ferobond which is a flexible PVA used in the building trade. The expectation is that although the foam will be bridged, the adhesive will not transmit noise because it remains flexible.
I wonder how many complains Mary Whitehouse got about your lack of PC. Agricultural indeed.
Lovely job.
Thanks.
Bob
I totally agree about bridging the foam. I have two other rubberised glues in mind.
Thanks for explaining the different spacings for set track vs streamline, I had been wondering why.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Cameron.
A very helpful video. I have some flexible track but when using it on my last layout it was glued down. Hence not in best of conditions now. We live and learn and shall buy more and do it like this!
Melissa I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Excellent video Charlie and that is very useful for me as ballasting is a job I still have to do......…...Cheers Kev
Glad you enjoyed it Kev
Ive always use cork bark and wood glue,but interesting video charlie
I'm so pleased that you found it interesting BRMI.
"Sexy unifrog points" something i thought i would never hear coming from someone with such experience
Very controversial, come on it made you smile.
Polerized 367 Cor! Look at the frogs on that!
Very common phrase round my way ....
Thanks Charlie for another excellent video
Thanks Dave.
Another fine video Charlie. As an American modeler I use the medium woodland scenics ballast although my ballast guy also likes to use Scenic Express real stone ballast. Yes it is really crushed stone. It is a finer ballast. Second thing I use is foam brushes to shape the ballast as the brush whiskers tend to shoot ballast all over. Just my choice.
To hold ballast in place I have been using grout additive. It is added to grout to give it flexibility when grouting outdoor tiles. Same price as pva but doesn’t crack or chip quite as easily. So there you are just a couple of ideas from this side of the pond to consider as you have provided more than a few techniques to me from your experience. Stay safe and play with trains 🚂
Great tips Joe, I’ll have to check out the flexible grout myself. Regards Charlie
Just in time for me. I started ballasting my rails and I left out the points as unsure on how to do. Now then, ready to complete the task! Thank you Charlie!
Do the points first while you are fresh.
Thanks Charlie! that Y point scene looks nice. the good thing is you got all the supply's lying around in this difficult situation.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it IL
Hi Charlie, another entertaining and informative video. I am always amused by us modellers struggling to avoid using "prototype" when describing aspects of our layout, but then struggle even more to come up with an alternative. I favour the ambiguous "realistic". It can look realistic but also suggest what is possible given the many factors the individual modeller has to contend with. As the great C.J.Freezer remarked " if layouts were prototypical, then the distant signal would be a quarter of a mile away"
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Nikki, but you’re right, realistic or as I said authentic seem to be the better options. Regards Charlie.
G'Day Charlie. A very nice video show casing the classical format for laying track and ballasting. Now I know you did this to demonstrate the basic classical format but I also see it as an opportunity for you to use this small base board as a demonstrator for another task that people can do too their layout. And its right up your alley as well! Apply a number of different types of foam/rubber matting/underlay on the UNDERSIDE inside the frame work with say 2 types of matting in each half of the board with a small gap between the 2 sections per half. You will want each type of matting to cover the underside of where the tracks are laid in each half so when you look at it, its like 4 sections of matting running across from the narrow side to side for the entire length of the board on its long side.Then flip it back over and with a piece of rolling stock (the one that usually makes the most noise) or a loco if you power it and see which type of matting works the best. I suggest this as I'm not to sure what types of matting you can get over in the UK from your local hardware type store but its a good size board to use as a test bed for this purpose.
Thanks G130, I'll certainly consider it.
Charlie, it is always a pleasure to watch your videos. I always seem to learn something. Please keep em coming.
Thanks AF, you’re too kind
Hi Charlie loved the authenticity of your video 🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂
Thanks Adam, you’re too kind
Flower potting pumice is much cheaper by weight and works for ballast once the grain sizes are separated out from one another.
Now there’s an idea I’ve never thought of, regards Charlie
Brilliant video Charlie, nothing wrong with going back to basics. Even though I have watched loads of these sort of videos, before I start laying ballast for the first time I will watch this again as a refresher. Keep them coming.
Regards Chris
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris. Good luck with your layout.
Great video again Charlie! I saved it for later use. Cheers Onno.
It’s great to have you on board mate
Quick, yet thorough and clear. Quite educational. Excellent class, Charlie! Cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Gorilla glue is awesome. I even brush my teeth with it! It works very well for gluing foam to foam and foam to wood.
I'm certainly a fan of it too.
Good demo, thanks....for showing all the mistakes I’ve been making!😯
You are so welcome R5
Hi Charlie, another great video. Think I'm becoming addicted to them lol. Building a layout in my son's bedroom while he's not living with us. Got to the stage of either relaying the track or continue to paint the paper mache. I think with the amount of water you need to spray before ballasting that laying the track first would be my best choice. Keep up the good work, thanks, Dale
Thanks Dale, I'm so pleased that you found it interesting.
Another simple to follow tutorial Charlie. Hope you're staying well during this time!
Thanks, you too!
Last time I commented on one of your vids, I was being rather smug about my track laying method. Having finished the track laying and ballasting on the layout, the next day after writing said comment, i found that the track I had laid had become too bumpy for the trains to run nicely. In other words I had mucked it up. The mistake was of course using expanded polystyrene, I should have used extruded polystyrene. The expanded polystyrene had begun to perish, meaning the track was sinking. So the only option was to pull up ALL of my trackwork, throw out the lumpy bits and flexitrack with tight spots and start again, this time, at board level. I have learned so many lessons since starting the layout and am progressing very nicely (and quickly) on the rebuild. (all my hard work on the landscaping was fine so I kept that.) It's given me the chance to replace all the terrible Peco solenoids with SEEP ones (I don't have the space or budget for slow points), and rework my track geometry to eliminate as much settrack from the trackplan as possible.
Should we be able, my club (Newhaven and district MRC) will be having a show in Seaford about the end of October, and I will be having my exhibition premier with the layout I'm talking about, which I have now named "Furrelington Yard". It is an alternative history layout based on the LBSCR, and set in 1953. It would be great to see you there and meet you, if you are able to make it!
And those lovely little code 75b fishplates are something to behold, they're about the same size as N gauge ones, only with the added bonus of detail! when I first saw them in my local shop I thought they were for N they're so tiny. I was tempted to buy a pack and see if they fit.
As for ballast, were you aware that woodland scenics ballast is made of walnut shells? I didn't know until it started to make my hands turn red and itchy. So now I use real granite ballast from gaugemaster, ultrafine grade, which looks rather handsome, and very much like the real stuff. Unfortunately, pinning the track in the centre is the only option for me, so the darker ballasts help to hide that (but that brighter stuff looks fantastic!)
An interesting read Chris and I'd love to come along to your show, all being well.
@@ChadwickModelRailway fantastic, I'll look forward to it.
Fantastic result after all that work. Well done David. Keith. :-)
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Keith. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Interesting video Charlie. I used the Bullhead track on my last project and it set it off well. I found the points very fragile and great care had to be taken with them. Chris
Great point Chris.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Great pun Charlie 👌😅
Good video Charlie, covers all the basics which can be difficcult for beginners Best regards Andrew
Glad it was helpful Andrew.
Another great video, thanks Charlie looking forward to next Friday already.
What a nice thing to say Ian
Charlie,excellent video on laying track and ballast. Thank you for clearing up the first radius issue for me. The Bullhead track looks great along with the points. Learned that time and patience is needed with ballasting. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Glad it helped Ken.
Thank you for posting these videos. I have thoroughly enjoyed them.
Thanks Rob, you’re too kind. Regards Charlie
Charlie, I find your videos to be very helpful. Thank you for that. I'm sure that long-time viewers figured it out long before I did, but sometimes I'm taken aback by terminology. For example, what you call "points" are what we Americans would call turnouts or switches. Another term is "sleeper." I took me a while, but that's your term for what we call "ties." The timing for this particular video couldn't be better since laying a bunch of track is on my near horizon. I especially appreciated your observation about not putting track nails into the centers of sleepers. Keep up the good work!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I'm glad I watched this video. I now looks like I have a lot of trimming to do on my caul. (spelling not my best subject). I'm doing n gauge layout. Thanks Charlie for help.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Peter. Regards Charlie
@ 31.30 remember in Scotland we have red ballast 😂😂
A fair point mate.
¡Hola buenas tardes Charlie! As ever, a video worth watching and, so much gained from it. The time is drawing close for me to start ballasting the layout here. You answered a query regarding OO gauge ballast (fine) and also your mixes of water and glue, perfect. The jury’s still out as to the ‘sexiness’ of the new points however, the finished work was extremely ‘handsome’! As always, thanks and looking forward to next week. Stay safe and well. Un Salud. Gary
Thanks Gary, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Got to admit I only power the track at 3 4 or even 5 length distances, 5 Lengths being 15 feet of course, I use the Digitrax system and its useful as you have an option(as you know) to test for good conductivity using a coin to short out the track and the system advises if you have a problem. As up to now its always shown it to pass and I've never had any problems, I've run consists over these as well and the extra current drawn hasn't presented any problems.
Okay Sam.
Charlie thank you so much for recomending WS foam track bed. I bought a couple of rolls to try out and I've just come down from the loft after running my noisiest loco a bachmann split chassis 57XX. my baseboard is 12mm ply on 3x1 frames with legs to 18mm ply floor so the sound transmission was very high. After laing in a six foot section the loco in question was whispering along. I'm sold,thanks again Charlie for the heads up!
I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Great work! Very impressive....
Thanks Peter, regards Charlie.
Awesome video really great tips there I will try this out in my layout
I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Watching to brush up on my ballasting, but my n gauge fishplates. I’ve got Peco code 55 and it’s a pain to fit them. The fish plates are so small, and they have to go onto the bottom part of the rail, but if you don’t know, take a look at how Peco code 55 n gauge rail looks. They’re so tight to fit, and even with needle nosed pliers.
You make an excellent point Andrew.
Stay safe, regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie.
An excellent video for both the enthusiast and the amateur (me 😉!). Really enjoyed watching this + having a cuppa and some Hobnobs 👍!
Once I get started with the ballasting on my layout, I shall certainly be referring to this video again.
Stay safe mate, GWR
Glad you enjoyed it GWR.
Always great videos Thanks.
Thanks James, regards Charlie
Well done as always. What I do like about your videos, is even though I have done ballasting before and know how to do it, you make your videos not only interesting, but enjoyable to watch. It was a nice way to today to start my Sunday morning. Have a fun Sunday Charlie modeling your layout and greetings from the US.........
Philip
What a heartwarming comment Philip. Many thanks.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My pleasure Charlie. I was working on my mountain layout yesterday myself. Actually, working on it virtually everyday now with most places closed in New Jersey and social distancing rules in place.
Philip
Was an excellent tuto.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Another two cup informative video! Sometimes I wonder where the day goes when I’m in lockdown doing nothing! I have painted my layout track ,next step is cleaning the railhead. I always thought that buying a ballast spreader was unnecessary but after watching this demo I think I will order one so many thanks !Cheers stay safe .
They are a useful little device device Mark. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie.
Thanks for another great video Charlie!
As an N scaler I can speak with some authority on small and fiddly fish plates. Your feeling is correct, I think it's easier to fit them to the turnout or piece of track before you set it down and then try to mate the other piece of track with it flat on the layout. I do it holding the turnout in my hand then installing the fish plates before setting it down and joining it with the track, after I'm happy with it I glue everything down.
Also to your earlier point about glue and moving track, I'm a track gluer. I used two different methods on my current layout and I have a clear favorite. I use adhesive silicone caulking to hold the cork down and I use a water soluble glue, in this case knock-off Tacky Glue, to hold the track down. If you weight it after you do the ballast it won't lift but if you want to move it all you have to do is wet the area well and gently scrape.
-Also a Charlie
Thanks for a most interesting comment Charlie.
Bullhead track really does look the goods. I’m considering making a large investment in it but also am being cautious as I’ve hurd it’s not easy to work with. This video has help remove some of that doubt. This was great to watch and thanks for sharing, Clint
You can do it Clint but it is fragile.
Thanks, Some great advice to try out on my layout.
Glad it was helpful IR.
looking good like your vidios you put up an have use some you things you did o my lay out keep the blogds up and stay safe
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the channel AR. Regards Charlie.
Another important track geometry aspect, often ignored, is ‘transition’ into curves. Impossible without flexi track and produces such beautiful running characteristics.
And yes.... I was one of the ‘cringers’ when the glue dropper arrived at the points..... ‘Oh me of little faith’ 😉 Excellent result though !
Come on Gary, it’s only a little bit of glue on a point or could possibly go wrong!
Chadwick Model Railway 😂😂😂
It would be nice if they did a Tracksetta to *start* a transition; the very first bit is always tricky.
nice one charlie stay safe and well all the best al 😄👍👍👍🌈
Thanks LJ