Charlie, your videos are a lifeline during this lockdown. Your comment about being badgered for not having a handheld vacuum cleaner has made me feel guilty! But I am happy to see you with one. Talk about ambivalence!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I plead guilty. However, I got the impression from your video that others had also commented on it. Certainly, you made it sound that you had been hounded on all sides about it! I shall endeavour to be more gentle in my comments from hereon. Will you now also confess that it was a worthwhile investment? :D
I have not yet been holding a sharp object while trying to find a particular video on your channel ("Careful With that Axe, Eugene") but I have wished for ALL model RR video makers to number the episodes. Thank you for fixing yours.
@@ChadwickModelRailway automotive upholstery foam, it's used for motor homes and caravans to make sofas and beds ect. I get off cuts from a local coach builders on the cheap, but it comes in 4ft sheets 3" thick. Cut it a bit larger than you need and it will wedge itself between the board cross members, that way you just pull it out for wiring or maintenance. Great channel by the way, I'm looking forward to how the layout progresses.👍
Thank you for putting your ties/sleepers back under your track, I can't begin to tell you how many people don't do it and how empty it looks! Everything looks like its coming along nicely and being built proper!
without doubt you are simply the best..easy to follow and straightforward talking...laying th rubber down on th track...sure you're not a F1 driver Charlie lol
Closed cell foam rocks. It has so many wonderful applications. I've used it in my van. Boom!!! wonderful acoustics. I did have to apply small butylene rubber sheets to the single skin panels first though in order to reduce resonance but now my van sounds quite civilised. Win win👍👍
Superb vid and info 😆...The next time I build a layout I think I will use thin sheets of flat fome cut to shape to dampen sound a bit more as the track I use is rebalasted fleischmann profi track....but some heavy locos with the old motors can make grinding sound ampified through the loft flooring I use for the base boards.. Jim.
I for one am really glad you started numbering your videos - not because I wish to obsessively watch them all in order, but because knowing the number gives me a general 'idea' of the progress and techniques you have developed over time. For instance, if I watch video 20 and you recommend glue A, but then in video 150 you're using a different glue, I can say to myself "Ah! Well Charlie here has found a better way of doing things than he did before," and vice versa I know I can disregard a tip in video 35 when I've already seen you do it differently in video 162.
Lol where I live in Canada it's still snowing every other day so binge watching your videos is the way to go. Keep up the great work, I look forward to your videos every week
I enjoy and learn from all your videos so it is with some trepidation that I make a suggestion. The Woodland Scenics track bed that you are using has a score through it on the centreline. You would appear to have track centrelines marked on your board. So why not split the track bed in two and lay first one half against your pre-marked centreline and stick it down and then bring the second half to it. I have found this to be both easy and accurate especially on the curves or where the geometry is subtle.
Another ‘happy’ video from which we can all benefit. Keep up the good work. From your previous videos I’ve changed to the glueing method of track laying using the ‘copydex’ method.you trialed. Had much success with this fixing arrangement. Thank You. A couple of ideas to add to the mix - I have created a jig to locate brass panel pins for soldering to the underside the rails at baseboard joints. Speeded up this task. To weigh down the track whilst the glue dries I use ‘dead’ laptop batteries; oblong shape and nice and heavy! Keep well and SAFE. Happy modelling, 🚂 Tony
Mr Bishop. You're already a legend and I'd definitely say you're top shelf along with @everardjunction and the likes of @newjunction and @daveclass47. Please just run your channel how you want, respond as and when you can and do what you do best. Thanks from a very happy subscriber and patron.
Yes!!! Copydex. I’ve been a huge believer in the stuff for years. The fact that when you make a totally hash of things it peels up easily is fabulous. Keep up the great work Charlie. 👍
I agree with your method to a point (excuse the pun). I put down a bed of the anti carpet slip stuff from Ikea for about £3 you get a big bagful. then the woodland foam on top of that. this reduces sound through boards big time. thanks Charlie for the vids
Good Evening Charlie. I hope this note finds you well. Another great video. Just like a comment from another "Canuck" Anthony Graham, binge watching your videos is not that bad. I have done it myself and I find that watching them in sequence can be quite informative and entertaining. At least it is not like watching the same movies over and over. And I am always waiting for the next installment. Please keep up the great work. Stay well. Wash your hands until they are almost raw and keep "2" meters from everybody else. Your wife and children excluded. Regards Thomas
Hi Charlie, I've just been watcing your piece on gthe cYOU TUBE channel, I am not a modeller at your scale but am intrigued by what you go through for your hobby, My fomer scale was 1;5" to the foot or 7.25 " gauge so a bit different! For example wghen we exhibitrd a loco at a show it took eight men to carry it up th short flight of steps to the entrance....just the loco!. At that time there was no you tube or even computeres to watch it all on, if someone had a film camera there was achance to see it alll again, PLEASE KLEEP UP THE GOOD WORK Model rail for ever !!!
Had you thought about using different coloured wires for the different power districts, I've used a total of 14 different colours for the track and again 14 different colours at a different wire gauge for the points motors.
Glad to see your still at it. I may not have a layout, but if I did you have given me many ideals, and things to thing about Thanks so much for sharing, be safe
Thank you for the sound demonstration comparing the different track underlays and emphasising the different requirement for adhesives. It does explain why you replaced the previous cork base.
Hi Charley. I liked this video (and many of your others). I wondered if anyone has ever tried laying carpet underlay foam before putting on the cork. The foam would act as the sound insulating layer (like it does on the carpet) and the cork would act as the track bed and it wouldn't matter if it soaked up the PVA from the ballast as you are no longer relying on it to insulate the sound.
@@ChadwickModelRailway So I may try it. I should get a chance in the near future. I don't have Copydex available locally, so I may try a carpet layer's latex glue.
Thanks for another interesting and informative video.. I like the idea of numbering your videos I for one have been entertaining myself during this period of lock down by taking the opportunity to go back through your back catalogue of videos.. keep em coming..
You could use the woodland scenics trackbed in conjunction with a cut to size foam sheet underneath that the ballast will lay on and then you glue the foam down so it is secure
Like you i hate connecting the fish plates and the insulated ones are even harder. Don't help that I'm modelling in n gauge. Great video yet again Charlie
I love how you put a lot of effort into reducing the sound transmission through the track. I often see (or hear) other layouts where they sound of the running train is really amplified by the base board. And i often see others trying to overcome the issue by simply turning the sound chips up to a high volume. Which for me puts the sound from the loco totally out of proportion with the railway layout itself. I like it when the sound is not too loud, so that when a loco moves from one part of the layout to the next, the sound moves with it. Nothing better than getting your head down to track level and hearing the sound of the loco approaching you and then going away from you. Not a fan of having it so loud that it sounds the same all over the layout no matter where you are. Not using the loco sound to try and drown out the sound from the baseboard means you can have your sound output more in scale with the layout - if you know what i mean.
Very nice demonsatration Charlie. Even though I do DC I have no end of problems with slips....I have a 3 slip 4 point complex on my layout....headache!!!!. Thanks for another great video. Cheers, Bob
Excellent video Charlie. I will have to give woodland scenics foam another chance. We had used it on a module for a modular club and the stuff was a nightmare. It dried out and could not handle three set ups without major issues. Track started to bounce weird while it gave a realistic roll to the trains a few of my top heavy cars really got rocking at speed. It looked like the Napoleon Defiance and Western railroad. So we ripped it up and went with the cork. It may have just been the use we where using it for was ill suited to the task. Thank you for the information and the confidence boost in the foam track bed. It was much nicer to work with at times than the cork. I may not have a lot of sound DCC locomotives (I have a lot of older Athearn blue box locomotives that have had a lot of custom work done such as making a CNW buffalo so getting a speaker in on top of modifying it to get a board in them is near impossible) I do enjoy some board rumble (some is realistic) I don't want that to be the main sound in the room. I enjoy hearing the clickety clack of wheels. Especially running a long ore train with 24' Michigan ore cars. Wheels all over. What a sound going through a switch yard.
Coming a close second to my interest in another extremely well executed video, is my fascination with the single [at time of writing] thumbs down. My, it's a competitive hobby, ha ha.
I absolutely love your videos, Charlie. It’s become a religion of mine when I get in from work at 5am and crawl to bed. I settle in and am completely absorbed by the brilliant way you explain what you’re doing and the care taken in your videos and how the advice you give is offered to your viewers. It’s really great. No doubt you’ve seen the tv program, “‘model railway challenge”. I honestly think that if you and a couple of your mates entered, you’d be favourite to win. I bet using your clean and relatable method of working, you’d produce something excellent and would almost definitely win the competition. I can’t wait to see your layout running and I hope once it’s more complete and to your satisfaction, you’ll continue to make videos with trains running round your craftsmanship. Thanks a million. This is brilliant viewing. You’ll be pleased to learn that as a direct consequence of your and “sam’s trains” videos, I’ve got as far as buying a base board and a lot of the materials I need to begin to make my layout. All I need now is a space to begin building!! 😂
Trevor Lees (above poster) suggested to use sound deadening material from the automobile audio field. This may be easiest to install first, while the board is upside-down.
Hi Charlie - after a hard day at the office (aka my front room) your video's are a great way to destress. As always full of great top tips. Hope you and family are continuing to stay safe. Cheers Euan
Hi Charlie, Another informative video. I've always said to fellow club members good track laying is the key to a layout that runs well and you certainly take your time and make sure it's done well. I'm going to try the foam track bed and just glue the track on my next layout. I will have to watch your video on block detection again. Cheers, David.
Excellent presentation and very helpful at my stage of track laying. The introduction of your latest investment had me in knots... no noise reduction there 🤣 Thank you.
Thank You Charlie, for such a great video. I've now got to the stage of putting my trackbed down and installing track and I was getting really nervous about doing it. I was not sure track pins or glue, But after watching the video it's given me so much more confidence. I've now put the first pieces of trackbed down using copydex and it's really good. hopefully tomorrow first points will be test fitted.
Charlie I have watched and enjoyed all of your videos and I only watch them in the evening, daytime is for gardening etc. Really enjoy your videos but this one I found especially informative, I thinks its because of the way you show how to do things, you make it look so easy. I am building a N gauge layout, if you think track joiners are difficult on HO you want to come round my place and try my track work, talk about pulling what little hair I have left out, but it does in the end give me a truly large layout. Im in the early stages of building my layout and I am still pondering whether to put my track straight down on the plywood or use woodland scenics track bed, jury's still out and I realise its a personal choice. One thing I did notice is that when you put in a metal track joiner it did not appear that you leave a slight gap for expansion. Only reason I ask is I have put a large test track up in my loft and since we have had this wonderful warm weather down on the south coast my test track has warped in a number of places because the expansion gaps I left were not large enough. I am also putting in roof insulation and when I can afford it two roof lights which will make a difference when its all done. So do you bother with expansion gaps, guessing you do not need to as your layout is inside your home. Regards Chris
You're right Chris, I don't bother as it's in a heated room with a stable temperature. I wood suggest you do a trial regarding some form of underlay before you start. 2mm cork might be best if it's a monster!
Good idea Charlie as the runs will be about 30' in length at its longest, will be worth the expense in the long run. So why 2mm cork as opposed to Woodland Scenics track bed as the prices are very reasonable. Regards Chris
I forgot to ask, I watched your video on speed ballasting awhile back but that was on cork. Is it the same method for the foam track bed, if not are you going to do another video on it, please. Regards Chris
Hey, I am one of those sad people :-) But, your videos always seem to give me a reason to smile. Mind, I'm typically watching them late on a Friday night, so they do not interfere with being outside on a sunny day. (We are to get some storms to go with our colder-than normal April weather tomorrow.) You did answer a question that had been in the back of my mind, on whether you added in sleepers to fill the gaps. Bravo Zulu.!
Hi Charlie great video on track laying I have trains runing on the main line again after last weekend disaster on the down mainline I got the track relayed on Tuesday 😆 the 4 aspects colourlight signal gantry is now ready to go into place on the mainline at the nouth end of lancaster station goodbye for now Charlie stay safe and well mate Clive
Charlie, I've found your channel in the last week and love the fact that you've now numbered them. I started When you were building the viaduct section so I can now go back and start at the very beginning - love your work. PS I'm also a fan of Really Useful Box products.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I found a source (on eBay probably) selling "imperfect" Really Useful Boxes - these were basically where production runs changed colour so instead of being a single colour throughout there were streaks of a different colour showing - so cosmetically not up to standard but functionally perfect - saved me a pile of dosh as they say :)
The demo with your sound system very good. I 've laid down tracks many times, this the first time I observed after you white glued the roadbed but to my surprise with the plastic ties! I would think that white or clear glue would not be compatible with that to the plastic ties. I know Atlas has nail holes on all their trackage in HO SCALE. Peco HO/ OO doesn't have mounting holes which makes it harder to install when I'm laying down trackage. This is my third viewing on your channel... Off subject I was very moved when this Covid 19 started its destructive path on our many nations You took time out with your Model railroad club to help us make your own home version of hand sanitizer! I live in New York City, New York U.S.A. from pharmacies , supermarkets & Hardware giants there is no hand sanitizer & disinfectant sprays or wipes to clean and protect ourselves from this pandemic. I want to thank you from my heart across the pond for that segment. A lot went into those ingredients you put in to protect ourselves from those nasty germs in this pandemic. Stay well and Happy Railroading. 💓🏭🏨🏦🏥🏣🏢🏫🌈🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚄
Another top video Charlie. Some of the most enthusiastic drilling I have ever seen and the phrase 'local vibration' must become part of the English language. Hope you are all keeping well mate. Take care
Hi Charlie. Thanks for the comparison of track beds. One thing you missed for me was a cost comparison (per length) of the Woodland Scenics foam and the 3mm cork.
I've used foam board as a track underlay, as indeed I use it for scenery support and as a core for buildings. Very useful and cheap. But I'm not enamoured of the sound effects when it comes to steam locos - diesels are another matter - so the rumbling and click-clack over rail joints are fine by me. Also, I don't know how I managed without a vacuum cleaner in the past, reclaiming ballast, scenic grasses as well as picking up the debris after rail cleaning with an abrasive block. Fascinating video again, Charlie, thanks. I watch while waiting for glue to dry!
@@ChadwickModelRailway It's 5mm board (Hobbycraft 4 sheets for £10) laid on 9mm ply. Chamfer the edges and drill through with 10mm bit. My Peco solenoids work ok, although I'm tempted (by your site and others) to replace with slow acting point point motors. The sound deadening quality is ok until ballast is applied and glued...Next time (if) I may use something else.
Hello Charlie, another interesting and informative video. In regards the weather, I live in Southern California. And it’s being dreary and raining for the better part of two weeks. So binge watching my favorite You Tube model railway channels is a good thing. Thanks. See ya next time.
Charlie. I've only started watching your channel since lock down as I've now got time to really work on my railway. Thank you for such usefull and honest, and funny at times, videos. I can see how much time and effort you put into them and like the mix of subjects. I've subscribed and look forward to working back through the others and for the new ones. Thank you.
Hi Charlie, I just wanted to thank you for putting all your videos together. They have played a large part in inspiring me to get stuck back in to completing my model railway and your comparison of the track beds has proven to be spot on as always. After watching this video some time back I decided to re-lay my track with the woodland scenic foam track bed (and glued instead of pinned). I finally got the track powered up and was able to have a few locos run over it in the weekend and the sound deadening is amazing compared to the cork I had previously. Thanks you again, and keep up the great work! Cheers, Steve
Evening Charlie. Thanks for putting so much effort into your channel. Fridays are worth waiting for now 👍🏻 I'm making great progress on my layout since your last video. Station platform completed now working on unfinished buildings lol 😂 As I've been furloughed again from work so I've to control my spending for the time being 😩 Have a safe weekend looking forward to seeing the next video. Cheers Stevie. PS your involvement with McKinley project is absolutely fantastic Charlie.
Great vid Charlie. Thanks for the demonstration of the different track beds used. I have been a staunch advocate of cork but am going to check out the woodland scenics foam for my next layout. For my droppers I use 7/02 as you do. For my my bus I use 16/02 as my runs are quite short. Keep up the great content it's very helpful seeing how others skin Thier cats!
Bravo, Charlie! You've become a celebrity! Great job explaining your conditions for sound reduction. I certainly don't believe it's an obsession; with sound locomotives, and all the different sounds available from the current models of sound decoders, trying to remain faithful to the illusion by avoiding the 'rumble' is a worthy objective. Looks - and sounds - like you've accomplished that. Keep it up, Charlie! You're fans out here need you! Thanks!
Charley, since the roadbed has a factory split down the center, and you normally seem to draw a line where the center of your track is to run, wouldn't it be easier to draw the centerline of the track and measure to that instead of one or the other rail? This is the way I have done it for years and it has worked very well. The distances between tracks remains the same, just the measuring point changes.
Very neat and tidy Charlie. Even with O gauge and woodlands underlay I tend to use a lot less Copydex than you, probably because I'm a tight fisted old sod. ! Right now in Somerset it's cold damp and miserable as you know. (just the way I like it) ! Now back to DIY and that list the seems to be growing. Stay safe.
This is great!!! I just picked up a bunch of WS Foam Roadbed and was wondering how well it worked. Hope to start in a few days putting mine down! Will be watching from across the Atlantic pond!! Cheers!! Ray
Oddly, I'm the complete opposite of you Charlie. I nail my track directly to the plywood baseboard and love the sound it makes along with the loud clunk of my points.
Charlie, I find the longest time spent tracklaying is the points. When you lay a series of them it feels like your getting nowhere. but once you start laying plain track you can start moving quiet quickly. Nice to see you inside in your "Bubble" If this goes on much longer I can feel cabin fever setting in. Cheers, Chris Perry.
Hi Charlie, my model railway has been down for many years [approx. 30 years] with some minor additions to track work here and there. When I first began I laid my flexi-track on 3 mm cork and I have continued to do so. What has happened over the years is the cork bed originally laid has gone, should I say as hard as a rock which has occurred gradually over a period of time, needless to say there are variations governed by when the track was laid, consequently the noise levels vary which is a tad annoying. I seem to be rambling on a bit so to get to the point, if I was starting a layout today I think I would use the Woodlands Scenic track bed. I really enjoyed your video and the lengths you go to making sure everything is spot on. Cheers Greg Stay safe Charlie.
Charlie, another great video, you narrate really well. Like you, I endeavour to reduce noise except the loco engine and the wheels passing over the track joins ( - yes, ok, clickity clack!🤭) - I'd thought to use the same trackbed as you, but, to first cover the whole layout in insulating foam board, which I hope would deaden the noise. What say you??
Hi Charlie,have you considered using one of the sound deadening products used in the car audio field,you can peel and stick it to the bottom of your boards I used some in my panel van that I used to own to get rid of the echo y sound in the back worked very well and you don't need to cover the whole area otherwise it gets expensive I can't recommend a brand as I don't live in the UK but I am sure you will find it easy enough it may be worth a try
Hi Charlie, I have used as my balast very fine ground up cork, prepainted of course and it has reduced track noise almost totally, it's a product that added to paint for antislip on boats, just a thought for you, excellent videos, thankyou
You can always use self adhesive sound deadening stuck to the underside of the board which will help with noise. You can purchase this quite cheaply as it is used for motor vehicles
Thanks for another interesting video Charlie (helps keep one sane in these times). Glad to see your housekeeping improving 😉 and that the hair is getting as unruly as my own since I didn’t have the foresight to get it cut before lockdown 😀
Great comparison at the beginning there with the various underlay types. It seems to be quietest when you lift it with your fingers. Now where can one purchase 50 linear feet of human fingers...
Dear Charly, I would like to give the kind advise to NOW to deal with the underconstruction of the bridge under the baseboard. This to make it easier to you to come in this space/room with your tools and fingers at the moment. This due to the fact as the deep is only 12mms. So I would like to point out that the hole underbride underconstruction has to be "clear rasin tight". By this you can make shure you doesn't discover a bright new waterfall on the underside of your basebord in the next morning, as so your resin-water of the river was leaking on your floor as a waterfall over night. So modelling the underconstruction you can see and the "wall" at the very end will be an important task.Sorry I could not add a little hand scetch had drawn for you of the two L shadped pieces of wood that would be covered with brick cardboard and the backwall from an Evergreen sheet being glued against the ends of the L. (Easier to cut out an U.) Hopefuly you can still turn the baseboard upside down... (Other ways there will be a hole video showing you laying hours and hours under your baseboard working it the "Australian way" as a really tough guy. And we all know YOU would do it this way!!!)
Hi (sadly you didn’t leave your name), Rest assured that the damming of the rear river section has been completed and will be sealed with a specialist product once the river banks have been shaped to acceptable contours to reflect its use. This was completed as I installed the point motors and associated wiring while the board was on its back. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hy Charly, I am highly interested how you havebdone this and I do look foreward for the next "Charlie's Friday"... Thanks from Berlin to deepest EU-freed England, Chris
Brilliant timing, Charlie. Doing something similar myself in the near future. I've finally got some track I'm making into a Minories. I have had to pay over the odds as Peco have ceased production, shops are out of stock and eBay sellers are charging what they like because idiots like me will pay. Now or never though. Thing is, I've got points going into points which is going to generate a lot of spaghetti (@32:17-style) and I'll probably go cross-eyed at least a dozen times per point wiring up! Wish me luck! All the best to you and yours.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Luckily I didn't pay too much more than usual. Needed to put my annual bonus to good use ;) 10?! Leave your kidneys where they are, Charlie and step away from the bread knife! ;)
Nice weather outside? We just got 3 inches of snow last night! It's April 17th, for goodness sake! From Lincoln, Nebraska, USA. 70 miles from the geographic center of the country. Very nice video, Charlie! Hopefully, I'll be going back to work Monday, if nothing changes.
Years ago I used the Gaugemaster foam which after about 15 years turned to a thick, tar like substance and the track just sank into it. Bloody crap it was. Yet at the time is was advertised as good for semi permanent, or permanent use. I had to lift the complete layout and start again.
Great video, thank you for uploading. I've noticed the sound differences in my layout as there is mixture of cork and foam roadbed. a good product I found to significantly reduce the noise was the 9" x 12" thick foam sheets sold by Michael's here in the states. its 99 cents a sheet and does a fantastic job reducing the noise. Though I only recommend it for yards or station areas as other wise you would have to cut each segment individually and then bevel the edges for ballast, either through trimming or vinyl wall filler. Perhaps something to give go? A good perspective on track laying. I've found your videos very helpful as my model railroad evolves. I now do my wiring on sections instead of crawling under the layout. Still haven't gotten me sold on soldering though. Apparently not my cup of tea, so I only do it when I have to.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I was looking for something to use for large areas to cover, say where multiple tracks come together, switches, yards or fiddle yards. I didn't want to use cork sheets, because as you say, it causes the rumbling noise. I also didn't want to use all my foam track bed from Woodland Scenics as it wasn't efficient. As we all know, this hobby is a bit expensive and I like to stay in budget and not waste. This way you can cover a very large area quickly and, due to the thickness of the foam, sufficiently nullify the noise transfer. Much to my surprise, the foam sheets are nearly the exact same height of the road bed and allow laying the Kadee under the track uncoupler with no effort at all. Hiding the in between rail magnets from sight.
Perhaps you can help me with a query. Does using larger solid core cable, such as 1.5mm used in house wiring, have a detrimental effect on the DCC signal which doesn't occur with multi core? Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Solid vs Multi-strand cable? no, not really. The only down side to the single core cable is that it isn't very flexible, on the positive side of things, it's more likely to stay in whatever shape you bend it to. The biggest down side to solid cable is in a situation where it actually gets moved often, as if you bend it and straighten it a few times, it's more likely to break, where multi-strand cable shifts around itself. If you were to look at Cat5e computer networking cable for example, you can actually get that in both Solid and Multi strand variants, the Solid designed to be run through your trunking or walls(Areas that once placed, are unlikely to get moved), while the more flexible multi-strand used as patch cable (Like in a server cabinet, or from an outlet to the PC, areas where it is likely to get moved) Using thicker cable than you need also has very little effect on a signal. using cable longer than it needs to be is probably the largest factor for signal quality loss. Not only is there more signal loss due to voltage drop, but the entire wiring network is basically one big antenna, the more wire there is, the more interference you'll get from outside sources. Due to the way DCC works, I don't think EM Interference is a very big concern.
Actually, Come to think of it, I used Cat5e as an example... Mains cables themselves are a good enough example. The cables inside the walls etc are solid wire, yet when you go to plug something in, it always has multi-strand flexible cable. This is exactly the same reasoning. Multi-strand is flexible, but solid cable retains it's position easier, and is cheaper to produce. Also in theory the solid stuff is more resistant to corrosion, because the multi-strand has a higher surface area exposed when the plastic is damaged or removed. I know the question was resolved, but this was just one of those things on my mind I couldn't resist going back to add.
I've used Copydex to fix the WS roadbed and to fix the track to it. The noise is horrendous. It's louder than pinning the track directly to the baseboard but I can't understand why.
Hello Charlie, greetings from Australia. I cannot thank you enough for the help you are providing as I embark on modelling after a very, very long layoff. My dcc layout is designed as an around the walls end to end with the focus on slow transit and shunting. For space saving, all of my turnouts bar one are small radius Peco Code 100 electro frogs. I have one curved large radius SL E87. I'm attempting to follow your turnout modifications to improve dcc reliability. On the curved turnout business as usual. On the small radius turnout I think I have a problem and seek your guidance. The supplied frog wire does not connect to the closure rails like it does on the SL E87. If I cut the two jumper wires I'm assuming I will not have power into the ends of the closure rails. I have unsuccessfully tried to solder the frog wire to the brass pads on the closing rails to mimic the SL E87. So before I stuff up any turnouts I'm coming to the conclusion that I cannot follow your improvements in full. I'm thinking all I can do is wire the frog rail up ready for the tortoise, leave the jumper wires in place and rely on the switch blades to provide power to the end of the closure rails rather than solder in the droppers as you show. However this seems contrary to Peco's pack instructions which says to cut the wires if the frog is switched independently. I note though that the schematic differs from what the SL E91 and 92 actually look like. So I'm confused and would appreciate any guidance you may offer on applying your improvements to small radius turnouts. Thank you Regards Steve
A small point, Charlie, but I see your backscenes go right into the corners. I expect most of us have this, but in their catalogue - maybe others make the same suggestion - Peco say we should have curved ones. I'm a bit surprised you didn't go for that approach . . .
I understand you point Peter but then you have two other joins to mask as the corner material (thin MDF, hardboard etc) joins the flat of the wall. I just use trees etc.
Hi Charlie, Thanks for another great presentation, hope you and your family are well?, Yup, i agree with the vacuum go on Fleabay get a cheap portable rechargeable one,a lifesaver. I also agree, it was a great idea to Renumber your vids i ended up going all over the place to catch up .thanks. everyone stay safe yet another 3 weeks at least. Whilst a year for me and others with health problems :-( .till later. Mac
Charlie lay down your phone track bed dry where you want it check it with the points and the dimensions and then with the marker outline the phone track. Pick it up add glue to the path on the plywood where it goes not on the track. Otherwise it's flopping around with what glue play the track. Back down set the points on it and position of points on the track bed where they need to go.
Charlie, your videos are a lifeline during this lockdown. Your comment about being badgered for not having a handheld vacuum cleaner has made me feel guilty! But I am happy to see you with one. Talk about ambivalence!
Ah Stephen so it was you!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I plead guilty. However, I got the impression from your video that others had also commented on it. Certainly, you made it sound that you had been hounded on all sides about it! I shall endeavour to be more gentle in my comments from hereon.
Will you now also confess that it was a worthwhile investment? :D
Look forward to the industrial area .The sun is shining and the beers are cold .Keep safe .
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it David.
I have not yet been holding a sharp object while trying to find a particular video on your channel ("Careful With that Axe, Eugene") but I have wished for ALL model RR video makers to number the episodes. Thank you for fixing yours.
It's a pleasure M37.
I use large sheets of thick foam on the underside of the baseboard, with the track pinned directly to the plywood board. No noise at all.
What sort of foam James?
@@ChadwickModelRailway automotive upholstery foam, it's used for motor homes and caravans to make sofas and beds ect. I get off cuts from a local coach builders on the cheap, but it comes in 4ft sheets 3" thick. Cut it a bit larger than you need and it will wedge itself between the board cross members, that way you just pull it out for wiring or maintenance. Great channel by the way, I'm looking forward to how the layout progresses.👍
Thank you for putting your ties/sleepers back under your track, I can't begin to tell you how many people don't do it and how empty it looks! Everything looks like its coming along nicely and being built proper!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Max.
If i remember correctly Copydex niffs a bit when its first applied and wet and the smell disappears when it drys............Great video.....
Yes it still smells very fishy.
without doubt you are simply the best..easy to follow and straightforward talking...laying th rubber down on th track...sure you're not a F1 driver Charlie lol
What a heart warming comment David. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Closed cell foam rocks.
It has so many wonderful applications.
I've used it in my van. Boom!!! wonderful acoustics.
I did have to apply small butylene rubber sheets to the single skin panels first though in order to reduce resonance but now my van sounds quite civilised.
Win win👍👍
What an interesting solution AM.
Great video Charlie
Thank you.
Superb vid and info 😆...The next time I build a layout I think I will use thin sheets of flat fome cut to shape to dampen sound a bit more as the track I use is rebalasted fleischmann profi track....but some heavy locos with the old motors can make grinding sound ampified through the loft flooring I use for the base boards..
Jim.
Hi Jim, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
I for one am really glad you started numbering your videos - not because I wish to obsessively watch them all in order, but because knowing the number gives me a general 'idea' of the progress and techniques you have developed over time. For instance, if I watch video 20 and you recommend glue A, but then in video 150 you're using a different glue, I can say to myself "Ah! Well Charlie here has found a better way of doing things than he did before," and vice versa I know I can disregard a tip in video 35 when I've already seen you do it differently in video 162.
That’s very kind of you to say so mate. Inevitably better products to come online. Regards, Charlie
Lol where I live in Canada it's still snowing every other day so binge watching your videos is the way to go. Keep up the great work, I look forward to your videos every week
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Anthony.
I enjoy and learn from all your videos so it is with some trepidation that I make a suggestion. The Woodland Scenics track bed that you are using has a score through it on the centreline. You would appear to have track centrelines marked on your board. So why not split the track bed in two and lay first one half against your pre-marked centreline and stick it down and then bring the second half to it. I have found this to be both easy and accurate especially on the curves or where the geometry is subtle.
That’s a good point John. However those marks were just rough lines not real track plans.
However, you’ve made a fair point and one that we ought to consider a little more often.
Bonjours
Je suis français et j apprécie tous vos conseils
très intéressant continuer comme cela
bonne journée
cordialement
Bonjour
English for me please CD.
Another ‘happy’ video from which we can all benefit. Keep up the good work.
From your previous videos I’ve changed to the glueing method of track laying using the ‘copydex’ method.you trialed.
Had much success with this fixing arrangement. Thank You.
A couple of ideas to add to the mix -
I have created a jig to locate brass panel pins for soldering to the underside the rails at baseboard joints. Speeded up this task.
To weigh down the track whilst the glue dries I use ‘dead’ laptop batteries; oblong shape and nice and heavy!
Keep well and SAFE. Happy modelling, 🚂 Tony
Great tips Tony.
Mr Bishop. You're already a legend and I'd definitely say you're top shelf along with @everardjunction and the likes of @newjunction and @daveclass47. Please just run your channel how you want, respond as and when you can and do what you do best. Thanks from a very happy subscriber and patron.
What a heartwarming comment Chris, many thanks Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway ,a ft t z r, f x, saw r r 5 r the, e x r b. C b 5 oil o pl5 ppl 00 p pp]pppplp0 p p
Yes!!! Copydex. I’ve been a huge believer in the stuff for years. The fact that when you make a totally hash of things it peels up easily is fabulous. Keep up the great work Charlie. 👍
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Paul, stay safe mate.
I agree with your method to a point (excuse the pun). I put down a bed of the anti carpet slip stuff from Ikea for about £3 you get a big bagful. then the woodland foam on top of that. this reduces sound through boards big time. thanks Charlie for the vids
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Roland.
Good Evening Charlie. I hope this note finds you well. Another great video. Just like a comment from another "Canuck" Anthony Graham, binge watching your videos is not that bad. I have done it myself and I find that watching them in sequence can be quite informative and entertaining. At least it is not like watching the same movies over and over. And I am always waiting for the next installment. Please keep up the great work. Stay well. Wash your hands until they are almost raw and keep "2" meters from everybody else. Your wife and children excluded. Regards Thomas
I'm so pleased that you enjoy my channel Thomas. Stay safe mate.
Hi Charlie, I've just been watcing your piece on gthe cYOU TUBE channel, I am not a modeller at your scale but am intrigued by what you go through for your hobby, My fomer scale was 1;5" to the foot or 7.25 " gauge so a bit different! For example wghen we exhibitrd a loco at a show it took eight men to carry it up th short flight of steps to the entrance....just the loco!. At that time there was no you tube or even computeres to watch it all on, if someone had a film camera there was achance to see it alll again, PLEASE KLEEP UP THE GOOD WORK Model rail for ever !!!
Thank you John, for such a heartwarming comment.
Regards Charlie
You are truly a hoot. Again it was an interesting video. Entertaining and somewhat educational. (Good British humor as well).
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Ken.
Had you thought about using different coloured wires for the different power districts, I've used a total of 14 different colours for the track and again 14 different colours at a different wire gauge for the points motors.
No Sam, I didn't even know such a vast range was available.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yea, I use 7/0.20 for point motors and 16/0.20 for track. Got these from RS components some years ago.
Thank you for another video. I wish everyone would number their videos like you just did, great suggestion.
Thanks B68C, here to help.
Glad to see your still at it. I may not have a layout, but if I did you have given me many ideals, and things to thing about Thanks so much for sharing, be safe
Thanks Dave,, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
@@ChadwickModelRailway guess I should have proof read before I sent, Think about, Thanks so much for stopping to reply.
Thank you for the sound demonstration comparing the different track underlays and emphasising the different requirement for adhesives. It does explain why you replaced the previous cork base.
I'm so pleased that you you found it interesting Don.
Hi Charley. I liked this video (and many of your others). I wondered if anyone has ever tried laying carpet underlay foam before putting on the cork. The foam would act as the sound insulating layer (like it does on the carpet) and the cork would act as the track bed and it wouldn't matter if it soaked up the PVA from the ballast as you are no longer relying on it to insulate the sound.
It an interesting point Steven. Many mention it but nobody seems to have tried it.
@@ChadwickModelRailway So I may try it. I should get a chance in the near future. I don't have Copydex available locally, so I may try a carpet layer's latex glue.
Thanks for another interesting and informative video.. I like the idea of numbering your videos I for one have been entertaining myself during this period of lock down by taking the opportunity to go back through your back catalogue of videos.. keep em coming..
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that I’m keeping you entertained.
You could use the woodland scenics trackbed in conjunction with a cut to size foam sheet underneath that the ballast will lay on and then you glue the foam down so it is secure
An interesting option TS, I have a similar thought in mind.
Like you i hate connecting the fish plates and the insulated ones are even harder. Don't help that I'm modelling in n gauge. Great video yet again Charlie
N Gauge, even harder to see! Good luck Geoff.
Merci pour cette vidéo de partage de connaissance. Bravo et Bonne continuation.
English please 🚂🚂🚂
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank youfor this knowledge sharing vidéo. Well done and good luck.
French Yves from New Caledonia.
Thanks Yves, you are too kind.
I love how you put a lot of effort into reducing the sound transmission through the track. I often see (or hear) other layouts where they sound of the running train is really amplified by the base board. And i often see others trying to overcome the issue by simply turning the sound chips up to a high volume. Which for me puts the sound from the loco totally out of proportion with the railway layout itself. I like it when the sound is not too loud, so that when a loco moves from one part of the layout to the next, the sound moves with it. Nothing better than getting your head down to track level and hearing the sound of the loco approaching you and then going away from you. Not a fan of having it so loud that it sounds the same all over the layout no matter where you are. Not using the loco sound to try and drown out the sound from the baseboard means you can have your sound output more in scale with the layout - if you know what i mean.
Steve, I'm on your side on this one.
Again Charlie what another fantastic video cant wait to see a running session on your layout.
cheers Nic
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Nic, stick around mate.
Another great video Charlie. I love your explanations as they help novices to build their layout properly. Thanks mate.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Oliver
Thank you Charlie.
I've just started laying my track this evening, so your video was really useful!
Thanks T, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Very nice demonsatration Charlie. Even though I do DC I have no end of problems with slips....I have a 3 slip 4 point complex on my layout....headache!!!!. Thanks for another great video.
Cheers, Bob
Thanks Bob, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Excellent video Charlie. I will have to give woodland scenics foam another chance. We had used it on a module for a modular club and the stuff was a nightmare. It dried out and could not handle three set ups without major issues. Track started to bounce weird while it gave a realistic roll to the trains a few of my top heavy cars really got rocking at speed. It looked like the Napoleon Defiance and Western railroad. So we ripped it up and went with the cork. It may have just been the use we where using it for was ill suited to the task. Thank you for the information and the confidence boost in the foam track bed. It was much nicer to work with at times than the cork. I may not have a lot of sound DCC locomotives (I have a lot of older Athearn blue box locomotives that have had a lot of custom work done such as making a CNW buffalo so getting a speaker in on top of modifying it to get a board in them is near impossible) I do enjoy some board rumble (some is realistic) I don't want that to be the main sound in the room. I enjoy hearing the clickety clack of wheels. Especially running a long ore train with 24' Michigan ore cars. Wheels all over. What a sound going through a switch yard.
Great comment mate. I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Coming a close second to my interest in another extremely well executed video, is my fascination with the single [at time of writing] thumbs down. My, it's a competitive hobby, ha ha.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it TP.
Loved it set back with a beer Watch this channel interesting and very helpful looking forward for the next one
Thanks Kenny, you're too kind.
I absolutely love your videos, Charlie. It’s become a religion of mine when I get in from work at 5am and crawl to bed. I settle in and am completely absorbed by the brilliant way you explain what you’re doing and the care taken in your videos and how the advice you give is offered to your viewers. It’s really great. No doubt you’ve seen the tv program, “‘model railway challenge”. I honestly think that if you and a couple of your mates entered, you’d be favourite to win. I bet using your clean and relatable method of working, you’d produce something excellent and would almost definitely win the competition. I can’t wait to see your layout running and I hope once it’s more complete and to your satisfaction, you’ll continue to make videos with trains running round your craftsmanship. Thanks a million. This is brilliant viewing. You’ll be pleased to learn that as a direct consequence of your and “sam’s trains” videos, I’ve got as far as buying a base board and a lot of the materials I need to begin to make my layout. All I need now is a space to begin building!! 😂
It’s comments such as yours Chris that make it worthwhile. But before you get the tools out, planning cannot be overstated.
Trevor Lees (above poster) suggested to use sound deadening material from the automobile audio field. This may be easiest to install first, while the board is upside-down.
Hi Charlie - after a hard day at the office (aka my front room) your video's are a great way to destress. As always full of great top tips. Hope you and family are continuing to stay safe. Cheers Euan
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Euan.
Hi Charlie, Another informative video. I've always said to fellow club members good track laying is the key to a layout that runs well and you certainly take your time and make sure it's done well. I'm going to try the foam track bed and just glue the track on my next layout. I will have to watch your video on block detection again. Cheers, David.
I'm so pleased that you found it interesting David.
Excellent presentation and very helpful at my stage of track laying. The introduction of your latest investment had me in knots... no noise reduction there 🤣 Thank you.
Thanks David, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I quite like the rumble that the base bored makes
Each to our own but with sound locos it can drown their sound out.
Thank You Charlie, for such a great video. I've now got to the stage of putting my trackbed down and installing track and I was getting really nervous about doing it. I was not sure track pins or glue, But after watching the video it's given me so much more confidence. I've now put the first pieces of trackbed down using copydex and it's really good. hopefully tomorrow first points will be test fitted.
That’s great Peter, you don’t need too much Copydex and it drys in about an hour.
Charlie I have watched and enjoyed all of your videos and I only watch them in the evening, daytime is for gardening etc. Really enjoy your videos but this one I found especially informative, I thinks its because of the way you show how to do things, you make it look so easy. I am building a N gauge layout, if you think track joiners are difficult on HO you want to come round my place and try my track work, talk about pulling what little hair I have left out, but it does in the end give me a truly large layout. Im in the early stages of building my layout and I am still pondering whether to put my track straight down on the plywood or use woodland scenics track bed, jury's still out and I realise its a personal choice. One thing I did notice is that when you put in a metal track joiner it did not appear that you leave a slight gap for expansion. Only reason I ask is I have put a large test track up in my loft and since we have had this wonderful warm weather down on the south coast my test track has warped in a number of places because the expansion gaps I left were not large enough. I am also putting in roof insulation and when I can afford it two roof lights which will make a difference when its all done. So do you bother with expansion gaps, guessing you do not need to as your layout is inside your home.
Regards Chris
You're right Chris, I don't bother as it's in a heated room with a stable temperature.
I wood suggest you do a trial regarding some form of underlay before you start. 2mm cork might be best if it's a monster!
Good idea Charlie as the runs will be about 30' in length at its longest, will be worth the expense in the long run. So why 2mm cork as opposed to Woodland Scenics track bed as the prices are very reasonable.
Regards Chris
I forgot to ask, I watched your video on speed ballasting awhile back but that was on cork. Is it the same method for the foam track bed, if not are you going to do another video on it, please.
Regards Chris
Great update Charlie!!! Cheers Onno.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Onno.
Hey, I am one of those sad people :-) But, your videos always seem to give me a reason to smile. Mind, I'm typically watching them late on a Friday night, so they do not interfere with being outside on a sunny day. (We are to get some storms to go with our colder-than normal April weather tomorrow.) You did answer a question that had been in the back of my mind, on whether you added in sleepers to fill the gaps. Bravo Zulu.!
I'd hate to keep you awake with worry CM82.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I've stood bridge watches, I can fall asleep near to demand :)
Hi Charlie great video on track laying I have trains runing on the main line again after last weekend disaster on the down mainline I got the track relayed on Tuesday 😆 the 4 aspects colourlight signal gantry is now ready to go into place on the mainline at the nouth end of lancaster station goodbye for now Charlie stay safe and well mate Clive
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Colin. Stay safe mate and happy modelling.
Charlie, I've found your channel in the last week and love the fact that you've now numbered them. I started When you were building the viaduct section so I can now go back and start at the very beginning - love your work.
PS I'm also a fan of Really Useful Box products.
Those boxes, my poor bank account, I just can't stop!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I found a source (on eBay probably) selling "imperfect" Really Useful Boxes - these were basically where production runs changed colour so instead of being a single colour throughout there were streaks of a different colour showing - so cosmetically not up to standard but functionally perfect - saved me a pile of dosh as they say :)
The demo with your sound system very good. I 've laid down tracks many times, this the first time I observed after you white glued the roadbed but to my surprise with the plastic ties! I would think that white or clear glue would not be compatible with that to the plastic ties. I know Atlas has nail holes on all their trackage in HO SCALE. Peco HO/ OO doesn't have mounting holes which makes it harder to install when I'm laying down trackage. This is my third viewing on your channel... Off subject I was very moved when this Covid 19 started its destructive path on our many nations You took time out with your Model railroad club to help us make your own home version of hand sanitizer! I live in New York City, New York U.S.A. from pharmacies , supermarkets & Hardware giants there is no hand sanitizer & disinfectant sprays or wipes to clean and protect ourselves from this pandemic. I want to thank you from my heart across the pond for that segment. A lot went into those ingredients you put in to protect ourselves from those nasty germs in this pandemic. Stay well and Happy Railroading. 💓🏭🏨🏦🏥🏣🏢🏫🌈🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚄
Harold, it’s comments such as yours that make making videos worthwhile. Regards Charlie
Another top video Charlie. Some of the most enthusiastic drilling I have ever seen and the phrase 'local vibration' must become part of the English language. Hope you are all keeping well mate. Take care
You too, stay safe mate, the end is not yet in sight!
Hi Charlie. Thanks for the comparison of track beds. One thing you missed for me was a cost comparison (per length) of the Woodland Scenics foam and the 3mm cork.
A fair point WS is probably 4 times the cost!
I've used foam board as a track underlay, as indeed I use it for scenery support and as a core for buildings. Very useful and cheap. But I'm not enamoured of the sound effects when it comes to steam locos - diesels are another matter - so the rumbling and click-clack over rail joints are fine by me.
Also, I don't know how I managed without a vacuum cleaner in the past, reclaiming ballast, scenic grasses as well as picking up the debris after rail cleaning with an abrasive block.
Fascinating video again, Charlie, thanks. I watch while waiting for glue to dry!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Davil.
Hi Davil, What type and thickness foam board are you using?
I'm puzzled on how your points will operate.
@@ChadwickModelRailway It's 5mm board (Hobbycraft 4 sheets for £10) laid on 9mm ply. Chamfer the edges and drill through with 10mm bit. My Peco solenoids work ok, although I'm tempted (by your site and others) to replace with slow acting point point motors. The sound deadening quality is ok until ballast is applied and glued...Next time (if) I may use something else.
Hello Charlie, another interesting and informative video. In regards the weather, I live in Southern California. And it’s being dreary and raining for the better part of two weeks. So binge watching my favorite You Tube model railway channels is a good thing. Thanks. See ya next time.
What a kind, heartwarming comment Norman.
Charlie.
I've only started watching your channel since lock down as I've now got time to really work on my railway.
Thank you for such usefull and honest, and funny at times, videos.
I can see how much time and effort you put into them and like the mix of subjects.
I've subscribed and look forward to working back through the others and for the new ones.
Thank you.
Thanks AP, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie, I just wanted to thank you for putting all your videos together. They have played a large part in inspiring me to get stuck back in to completing my model railway and your comparison of the track beds has proven to be spot on as always. After watching this video some time back I decided to re-lay my track with the woodland scenic foam track bed (and glued instead of pinned). I finally got the track powered up and was able to have a few locos run over it in the weekend and the sound deadening is amazing compared to the cork I had previously. Thanks you again, and keep up the great work! Cheers, Steve
What a heartwarming comment Steve, much appreciated, regards Charlie
Beautiful sunshine? Absolutely hissing down now, so a good reason to stay in and watch :-)
Same here now Alan.
Evening Charlie. Thanks for putting so much effort into your channel. Fridays are worth waiting for now 👍🏻 I'm making great progress on my layout since your last video. Station platform completed now working on unfinished buildings lol 😂 As I've been furloughed again from work so I've to control my spending for the time being 😩 Have a safe weekend looking forward to seeing the next video. Cheers Stevie. PS your involvement with McKinley project is absolutely fantastic Charlie.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Stevie, stay safe mate.
Great vid Charlie. Thanks for the demonstration of the different track beds used. I have been a staunch advocate of cork but am going to check out the woodland scenics foam for my next layout.
For my droppers I use 7/02 as you do. For my my bus I use 16/02 as my runs are quite short.
Keep up the great content it's very helpful seeing how others skin Thier cats!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Steve.
Thank you Charlie for another great video
Thanks Ross.
Man i could watch your videos all night, oops i already have! haha its now 3am
Get to sleep. zzzzzzz
Bravo, Charlie! You've become a celebrity! Great job explaining your conditions for sound reduction. I certainly don't believe it's an obsession; with sound locomotives, and all the different sounds available from the current models of sound decoders, trying to remain faithful to the illusion by avoiding the 'rumble' is a worthy objective. Looks - and sounds - like you've accomplished that. Keep it up, Charlie! You're fans out here need you! Thanks!
You're far too kind Pat, I just make it up as I go along (almost)!
Thank heavens for the vacuum cleaner, Charlie!
A grand investment Phil.
Charlie,
Voice recognition leaves room for improvement. I too am laying track. Love that roadbed!
Bob
Voice recognition?
@@ChadwickModelRailway I assume that refers to the auto gen subtitles.
BZ on numbering the vlogs, I follow a lot on others on different subjects and quite a few of them have numbered theirs its so much easier.
Just doing as I was told Paul!
Charley, since the roadbed has a factory split down the center, and you normally seem to draw a line where the center of your track is to run, wouldn't it be easier to draw the centerline of the track and measure to that instead of one or the other rail? This is the way I have done it for years and it has worked very well. The distances between tracks remains the same, just the measuring point changes.
A fair point JC and one that I'll try.
Very neat and tidy Charlie. Even with O gauge and woodlands underlay I tend to use a lot less Copydex than you, probably because I'm a tight fisted old sod. ! Right now in Somerset it's cold damp and miserable as you know. (just the way I like it) ! Now back to DIY and that list the seems to be growing. Stay safe.
You're right Richard, I'm too generous with all of my glues.
Many thanks for yet another interesting and informative video. Stay safe.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Alec.
Nice one Charlie, you always make it look so easy 👍
It might just be easy Mick!
This is great!!! I just picked up a bunch of WS Foam Roadbed and was wondering how well it worked. Hope to start in a few days putting mine down! Will be watching from across the Atlantic pond!! Cheers!! Ray
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ray.
Oddly, I'm the complete opposite of you Charlie. I nail my track directly to the plywood baseboard and love the sound it makes along with the loud clunk of my points.
Each to our own Bill.
Charlie, I find the longest time spent tracklaying is the points. When you lay a series of them it feels like your getting nowhere. but once you start laying plain track you can start moving quiet quickly. Nice to see you inside in your "Bubble" If this goes on much longer I can feel cabin fever setting in. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I know what you mean but always leave something for tomorrow.
Hi Charlie, my model railway has been down for many years [approx. 30 years] with some minor additions to track work here and there. When I first began I laid my flexi-track on 3 mm cork and I have continued to do so. What has happened over the years is the cork bed originally laid has gone, should I say as hard as a rock which has occurred gradually over a period of time, needless to say there are variations governed by when the track was laid, consequently the noise levels vary which is a tad annoying. I seem to be rambling on a bit so to get to the point, if I was starting a layout today I think I would use the Woodlands Scenic track bed. I really enjoyed your video and the lengths you go to making sure everything is spot on. Cheers Greg Stay safe Charlie.
Hi Greg, yes time is a great tester of products, us included! Stay safe mate.
Charlie, another great video, you narrate really well. Like you, I endeavour to reduce noise except the loco engine and the wheels passing over the track joins ( - yes, ok, clickity clack!🤭) - I'd thought to use the same trackbed as you, but, to first cover the whole layout in insulating foam board, which I hope would deaden the noise. What say you??
Absolutely perfect Alan.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,have you considered using one of the sound deadening products used in the car audio field,you can peel and stick it to the bottom of your boards I used some in my panel van that I used to own to get rid of the echo y sound in the back worked very well and you don't need to cover the whole area otherwise it gets expensive I can't recommend a brand as I don't live in the UK but I am sure you will find it easy enough it may be worth a try
I'm onto it already Trevor.
Once they are running I can check out what needs to be done.
Good idea... I would think also that the 4x8 feet styrofoam insulation boards would work / help as well....
Another useful vid. Thanks Charlie
You’re welcome Clive
Hi Charlie, I have used as my balast very fine ground up cork, prepainted of course and it has reduced track noise almost totally, it's a product that added to paint for antislip on boats, just a thought for you, excellent videos, thankyou
An interesting tip Jed, many thanks.
Hi Charlie,
About time you bought a vacuum cleaner! 😝 I laughed when I saw that. You drilled a hole then didn’t blow the mess all over the floor.
Jim
I notice this also. **LOL**
Don't gang up on me fellas!
Chadwick Model Railway Charlie remember that cleanliness is next to godliness! Your grace...
You can always use self adhesive sound deadening stuck to the underside of the board which will help with noise. You can purchase this quite cheaply as it is used for motor vehicles
Have you tried it Gary?
Yes I have used it on one section which was noisy
Richard’s videos - you say they they are top shelf - do you mean top drawer? 😃👍 great video as always!
Clearly a slip of the tongue Mike.
Sorry Richard!
Thanks for another interesting video Charlie (helps keep one sane in these times). Glad to see your housekeeping improving 😉 and that the hair is getting as unruly as my own since I didn’t have the foresight to get it cut before lockdown 😀
I've bought a hair trimmer from ebay as you will see on Friday!
Great comparison at the beginning there with the various underlay types. It seems to be quietest when you lift it with your fingers. Now where can one purchase 50 linear feet of human fingers...
Yes, Alec, I noticed that as well!
Local hospital, medical school, mortuary are my top three sources. 🧐
You guys weren't as surprised as me!
Enjoyed the video Charlie..
Thanks Jim.
That was a maze job what you dun there to your layout. 👍 👍
Just one of life’s many challenges Mick.
Dear Charly,
I would like to give the kind advise to NOW to deal with the underconstruction of the bridge under the baseboard. This to make it easier to you to come in this space/room with your tools and fingers at the moment. This due to the fact as the deep is only 12mms. So I would like to point out that the hole underbride underconstruction has to be "clear rasin tight". By this you can make shure you doesn't discover a bright new waterfall on the underside of your basebord in the next morning, as so your resin-water of the river was leaking on your floor as a waterfall over night. So modelling the underconstruction you can see and the "wall" at the very end will be an important task.Sorry I could not add a little hand scetch had drawn for you of the two L shadped pieces of wood that would be covered with brick cardboard and the backwall from an Evergreen sheet being glued against the ends of the L. (Easier to cut out an U.)
Hopefuly you can still turn the baseboard upside down... (Other ways there will be a hole video showing you laying hours and hours under your baseboard working it the "Australian way" as a really tough guy. And we all know YOU would do it this way!!!)
Hi (sadly you didn’t leave your name),
Rest assured that the damming of the rear river section has been completed and will be sealed with a specialist product once the river banks have been shaped to acceptable contours to reflect its use.
This was completed as I installed the point motors and associated wiring while the board was on its back. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hy Charly, I am highly interested how you havebdone this and I do look foreward for the next "Charlie's Friday"...
Thanks from Berlin to deepest EU-freed England, Chris
Brilliant timing, Charlie. Doing something similar myself in the near future. I've finally got some track I'm making into a Minories. I have had to pay over the odds as Peco have ceased production, shops are out of stock and eBay sellers are charging what they like because idiots like me will pay. Now or never though. Thing is, I've got points going into points which is going to generate a lot of spaghetti (@32:17-style) and I'll probably go cross-eyed at least a dozen times per point wiring up! Wish me luck! All the best to you and yours.
Yes Hattons are out of points too! Just when I needed 10!
@@ChadwickModelRailway Luckily I didn't pay too much more than usual. Needed to put my annual bonus to good use ;)
10?! Leave your kidneys where they are, Charlie and step away from the bread knife! ;)
I did the book mistake and the ink went all over the cork and my wife went mad, great video as always Charlie
We live and learn JJ.
Great video as always Charlie.
Thanks Roy.
Nice weather outside? We just got 3 inches of snow last night! It's April 17th, for goodness sake! From Lincoln, Nebraska, USA. 70 miles from the geographic center of the country.
Very nice video, Charlie! Hopefully, I'll be going back to work Monday, if nothing changes.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it FB and do take care mate.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Just called the corporate hotline. For our facility "Hourly associates report May 4th." D*mn!
Hello Charlie,
Great video thanks for the first version.
HC Treintje Belgium Herman.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Herman.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie.
I think the superlatives are already spoken well below. I will just add my standard tip of the hat with "another master class in session!" Thanks!
You're too kind as usual AD.
Years ago I used the Gaugemaster foam which after about 15 years turned to a thick, tar like substance and the track just sank into it. Bloody crap it was. Yet at the time is was advertised as good for semi permanent, or permanent use. I had to lift the complete layout and start again.
A dreadfull result Sam.
Great video, thank you for uploading. I've noticed the sound differences in my layout as there is mixture of cork and foam roadbed. a good product I found to significantly reduce the noise was the 9" x 12" thick foam sheets sold by Michael's here in the states. its 99 cents a sheet and does a fantastic job reducing the noise. Though I only recommend it for yards or station areas as other wise you would have to cut each segment individually and then bevel the edges for ballast, either through trimming or vinyl wall filler. Perhaps something to give go?
A good perspective on track laying. I've found your videos very helpful as my model railroad evolves. I now do my wiring on sections instead of crawling under the layout. Still haven't gotten me sold on soldering though. Apparently not my cup of tea, so I only do it when I have to.
Very interesting RS. What’s the real purpose of the underlay sheets?
@@ChadwickModelRailway I was looking for something to use for large areas to cover, say where multiple tracks come together, switches, yards or fiddle yards. I didn't want to use cork sheets, because as you say, it causes the rumbling noise. I also didn't want to use all my foam track bed from Woodland Scenics as it wasn't efficient. As we all know, this hobby is a bit expensive and I like to stay in budget and not waste. This way you can cover a very large area quickly and, due to the thickness of the foam, sufficiently nullify the noise transfer. Much to my surprise, the foam sheets are nearly the exact same height of the road bed and allow laying the Kadee under the track uncoupler with no effort at all. Hiding the in between rail magnets from sight.
As an electronic engineer... 7/0.2 is definitely a cable I used A LOT.
Perhaps you can help me with a query.
Does using larger solid core cable, such as 1.5mm used in house wiring, have a detrimental effect on the DCC signal which doesn't occur with multi core?
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Solid vs Multi-strand cable? no, not really. The only down side to the single core cable is that it isn't very flexible, on the positive side of things, it's more likely to stay in whatever shape you bend it to. The biggest down side to solid cable is in a situation where it actually gets moved often, as if you bend it and straighten it a few times, it's more likely to break, where multi-strand cable shifts around itself.
If you were to look at Cat5e computer networking cable for example, you can actually get that in both Solid and Multi strand variants, the Solid designed to be run through your trunking or walls(Areas that once placed, are unlikely to get moved), while the more flexible multi-strand used as patch cable (Like in a server cabinet, or from an outlet to the PC, areas where it is likely to get moved)
Using thicker cable than you need also has very little effect on a signal. using cable longer than it needs to be is probably the largest factor for signal quality loss. Not only is there more signal loss due to voltage drop, but the entire wiring network is basically one big antenna, the more wire there is, the more interference you'll get from outside sources. Due to the way DCC works, I don't think EM Interference is a very big concern.
What a cracking comment, I’m most grateful.
@@ChadwickModelRailway You're Welcome. I'm glad I could help.
Actually, Come to think of it, I used Cat5e as an example... Mains cables themselves are a good enough example. The cables inside the walls etc are solid wire, yet when you go to plug something in, it always has multi-strand flexible cable. This is exactly the same reasoning. Multi-strand is flexible, but solid cable retains it's position easier, and is cheaper to produce. Also in theory the solid stuff is more resistant to corrosion, because the multi-strand has a higher surface area exposed when the plastic is damaged or removed.
I know the question was resolved, but this was just one of those things on my mind I couldn't resist going back to add.
Free sound.
Sounds like it!
I've used Copydex to fix the WS roadbed and to fix the track to it. The noise is horrendous. It's louder than pinning the track directly to the baseboard but I can't understand why.
I’m absolutely baffled Dave. Is it the drumming of the baseboard or is it just the noise of steel wheels on steel rails? Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, greetings from Australia. I cannot thank you enough for the help you are providing as I embark on modelling after a very, very long layoff.
My dcc layout is designed as an around the walls end to end with the focus on slow transit and shunting. For space saving, all of my turnouts bar one are small radius Peco Code 100 electro frogs. I have one curved large radius SL E87.
I'm attempting to follow your turnout modifications to improve dcc reliability.
On the curved turnout business as usual.
On the small radius turnout I think I have a problem and seek your guidance. The supplied frog wire does not connect to the closure rails like it does on the SL E87.
If I cut the two jumper wires I'm assuming I will not have power into the ends of the closure rails. I have unsuccessfully tried to solder the frog wire to the brass pads on the closing rails to mimic the SL E87.
So before I stuff up any turnouts I'm coming to the conclusion that I cannot follow your improvements in full.
I'm thinking all I can do is wire the frog rail up ready for the tortoise, leave the jumper wires in place and rely on the switch blades to provide power to the end of the closure rails rather than solder in the droppers as you show.
However this seems contrary to Peco's pack instructions which says to cut the wires if the frog is switched independently. I note though that the schematic differs from what the SL E91 and 92 actually look like.
So I'm confused and would appreciate any guidance you may offer on applying your improvements to small radius turnouts. Thank you
Regards
Steve
Hi Steve, I think I have replied to this message via the Gmail account. Regards Charlie
A small point, Charlie, but I see your backscenes go right into the corners. I expect most of us have this, but in their catalogue - maybe others make the same suggestion - Peco say we should have curved ones. I'm a bit surprised you didn't go for that approach . . .
I understand you point Peter but then you have two other joins to mask as the corner material (thin MDF, hardboard etc) joins the flat of the wall. I just use trees etc.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you!
Hi Charlie, Thanks for another great presentation, hope you and your family are well?, Yup, i agree with the vacuum go on Fleabay get a cheap portable rechargeable one,a lifesaver. I also agree, it was a great idea to Renumber your vids i ended up going all over the place to catch up .thanks. everyone stay safe yet another 3 weeks at least. Whilst a year for me and others with health problems :-( .till later. Mac
Thanks Mac, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Charlie lay down your phone track bed dry where you want it check it with the points and the dimensions and then with the marker outline the phone track. Pick it up add glue to the path on the plywood where it goes not on the track. Otherwise it's flopping around with what glue play the track. Back down set the points on it and position of points on the track bed where they need to go.
It's always obvious after Robert! I'll try and buck up.