Hi Charlie another great informative video I might be wrong but I think your the only one that has covered loco maintenance and thorough wheel cleaning well done your video has certainly answered my questions.
@@ChadwickModelRailway That bit about inverting the rolling road to allow wheel cleaning is just the best, thank you. I have one of those for N Gauge. Btw, those brass rollers also need periodic cleaning. I think some of our cleaning issues arise from contacting two differing metals ie; brass or phosphor bronze pressing on stainless steel or nickel silver with current passing though it. We might be back to chemicals only the other way round, with electrolytic oxidation occurring to producing high resistance points between the differing metals.
From a chemistry standpoint, a water-alcohol mixture forms what is called an azeotrope. This mixture acts like a single liquid, not like sand and rocks mixed together, which will separate out (this is why mixed drinks don't turn into alcohol at the top and water at the bottom). It boils at a single temperature. As such, the alcohol & water evaporate simultaneously, so you'll never have the corrosive properties of water to worry about. No harm using the pure stuff, but really no need, either. By the way, your videos are brilliant, well done.
My first subscription ever on the WWW. I've invested in an 0 gauge model railway that hasn't been used in more than twenty years. Four hundred foot of track, too many rolling stocks to count and eight (?) locomotives. I'm seventy-four years old and, yes, it's for my grandsons (Ha Ha!). A great adventure coming up. Thank you for your excellent website.
Isopropyl alcohol and water form an azeotrope, which means they form a mixture that is unable to be separated with a simple distillation. As such, the IPA and water portions of any strength of IPA evaporate at the same rate, but the higher the percentage of water, the longer the drying time. Prolonged exposure to IPA can degrade/stain some plastics like PVC or styrenes.
Yes unless the bottle is very well sealed the 99.9% Propan-2-ol (IPA) will soon end up as 91% by volume the rest water absorbed from the air - can remove it by storing the IPA over molecular sieves but may be over the top of model rail use.
Happy new year Charlie, hopefully we will get through this pandemic soon. I wish to compliment you on your superb videos, they are excellent in terms of content, detail and you “explain as you go”...... You also give candid opinions on products, which you substantiate with evidence.....this is what we all need. You said that in a “previous incarnation” you worked with helicopters, well the methodical detail of your profession is well and truly evident in your videos. My own layout is 12ft x 40ft. DCC, with 131 points, all mechanical, “hand from the sky”, operated, and I have no intention to electrify as I love the chance to run up and down checking track etc. Please continue your marvelous videos....
Yet another good little film. Something of interest for you is something you may of may or not know is that in the factory where Bachmann model locomotives are assembled they grease the cogs and sprockets which is fine. But quite often on some of the Bachmann steam locomotives they over do it with the greasing lead to locomotives not preforming as well as they should. I was told this years and years ago and not long after I brought a Bachmann steam locomotive snd it did not preform very well so someone from the model railway society I used to belong to offered to take my loco away and remove the grease and then oil it instead. When I got my locomotive back I found it worked a lot lot better. I haven't had any trouble with any other Bachmann locomotives I have brought since wich I am glad but my friend who is in the know said it would be wise to remove the grease on all my Bachmann steam locomotives and oil them instead which I have not got around to do but I will one day.
What an interesting comment Matthew. Yes I had heard that some locos were supplied with too much grease, which gets even worse over time of course, as it dries out. regards Charlie
Hi Charlie thanks yet another top notch video. I think your maxim of " if it ain't broke don't fix it" is a really good one. I think monitoring loco performance and watching for the degradation of performance is the best way of deciding when to intervene. I too have noted less performance when I've serviced which also reinforces the stand off approach. Thanks for the vid its all enlightening. Shame its two weeks to the next but it'll be worth the wait!!!
Charlie, most entertaining. When using the superglue, I note you pour out some and then reach across that to work on the loco; as a matter of process, it seems better to have the glue beyond your normal reach! For alcohol, the free ions are only released when there is water present (like soap); hence an amount of water is needed to make the magic work! Four cleaning functions; the chemical route splits into two, for surfactant and for solvent. Surfactants allow polar solvents (like water) to be effective (as soap removing oil and grease). Solvents dissolve the item directly (like petrol dissolving grease until it is so runny that you can wipe it off). When you remove the excess grease from the end of the worm, the best place to put that grease is back onto the worm, within the working area of that worm's thread. For the contacts inside the bodyshell, using contact cleaner and contact grease ensures the contact area is clean and maintains contact. I like the idea of inverting the rolling road with books; cheaper than the commercial versions, and potentially more learned! The Hymek does show the pickups more clearly, so allows these to be cleaned before reassembly; again, you might want to clean the wheels inside before stripping down, so the contacts are then put back into a clean environment. All a matter of how dirty the system is! BTW, when we first saw the Atlantic, it was sparking as it paused; it appears the rear axle of the front bogie was causing the momentary short, which paused the operation. (Not sure why the running-in would improve that, but...) Thanks for the entertainment!
Hi Tom, The Atlantic was a complete nightmare and the sparking soon disappeared without trace. I'm pleased that you found the inverted rolling road interesting. I've been told that a commercial adapter is available for this. Regards Charlie
Charlie, Yes, James lists the inverted rolling road. (www.dcctrainautomation.co.uk/marrion-zeller-upside-down-system-kurt-h0.html). There is a RUclips clip that shows the use, with elastic bands to hold the loco against the rolling road. Obviously pony trucks, etc, are not supported, but they don’t need the rolling road. ruclips.net/video/wHz0We26MEA/видео.html is the RUclips clip; it’s in German, but you get the gist by watching the pictures.
Another great and informative video Charlie. Agree about the problems you can come across in actually getting into a loco for maintenance. A bit more thought from the manufacturers wouldn't go amiss. Cheers Euan
Hi Charlie A great instructional video. If over the years I had used your foam mat idea I could have saved many hours of my time which was spent crawling around looking for parts on the tiles. Cheers and stay safe. Paul from Zillmere
The accessibility to the gears of modern model locos is a pet peeve of mine. Older locos you just popped the shell off and there is it's guts for all to see. Now a days you pop the shell off (if you can figure out how) and it's chocked full of stuff and the actual moving parts are hidden away under weights and/or cowling. Infuriating... I suspect it's mostly done to void your warranty if they see you've moved anything when you inevitably send it back for a fix. Another great informative video Charlie, good job!
Chadwick Model Railway yes, it seems that the manufacturers prepare the "oiling diagram" without speakers and DCC chip then expect you to figure out how to "oil and grease" without removing the extra bits. Too late for the older locos but new ones should plan for cleaning and lubrication even if it is a few more screws or tabs and warnings on the instructions.
In the railway engineering game that I'm now retired from preventable maintenance was the mantra that Irish Rail went by, I know there 00 gauge but the cost of the average loco @€150-€250:00 their not cheap. Retired Irish Rail Craftsmen.
Dear Charly, there are some points I'd to add to you for your layout to help you. I. Detailing can give some extra dot we do long for So if you like to give your loco drivers a last touch you could add some wash (thinned colour of darkee tone) to the face. A very thinned dark flesh to imitate the shadows in the face making them alive. Also on the uniform a deeper blue/antrazith colour highly thinned will run into the grooves stuck there giving some imitated shadow and bringing the figure a last touch - it is allways easily done at maintenance your locos. Also you could pronounce the detailing on the bulkhead and dashboard, too, if you like. II. The sad guy with the sound issue To reduce the cello body sound of the viaduct you can fill it with styropour balls (may be easiest to bring in through a drilled hole from the "backside") to minimize the acoustic volume of the physically empty but acoustically active body? III. Night shift guy for the 24h journey? I am a bit irritated, because - why were there TWO guys in a loco on a BR diesel loco placed in the cabin? Best wishes to you and thanks you from Berlin, Chris
Interesting points Chris, many thanks. However, during this period in time, there were always 2 crew unless the loco was running light. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. One thing I noticed was how encased the worm gears on the class 25 are. Maybe the manufacturers ought to have put an access hole in so that the worm drive is accessible through the side of the plastic casing rather than having to poke it in at the ends like you did there. Ditto for the Hymek, the gears train is right inside the bogie so maybe a hatch that the nozzle or needle might go through would be useful.
Nice video thanks. I still have the locos I had in my late teens - 60s-70s vintage and I never maintained them. Returned to the hobby just last year, and they still run after all those years in storage. They don't run perfectly however, so I have been doing the cleaning and lubrication thing. Even with moderate neglect these old locos (Hornby Dublo and the American Tyco [early models]) seem to be indestructible.
Blue foam under the cradle. Geez, I've been doing this thirty years, and I learn this from you! Great job with this one, Charlie! You're making good use of the two week schedule. Thanks for all you do!
Its Friday, its a quarter to 12... It's Crackerjack,..No, No, No ....it's time to make coffee and sit down and await Charlie to upload latest Chadwick video.. Oh how wonderful the simple things in life...
I've now watched all 109 videos over the last two weeks in their entirety, yes, even the hand sanitiser ones! I have learned so much, and though my chosen gauge is 'N' gauge, most of the content can be applied to my basic modelling skills which have no doubt benefitted from this superb channel. As for DCC, I was never a fan of the sound as I thought it was always too quiet, especially in 'N' gauge but I appreciate all the extras and especially the computer integration with block control. I think the manufacturers have missed a trick with DCC sound. Last year, I visited the Hornby centre down in Margate and met the CEO (sorry, forgot his name) and mentioned an idea I had. His reaction was one of interest, and it would not surprise me to see my idea come to fruition in the next few years. As for the idea, well I'm keeping that to myself for now as it may well be the 'next big thing' ??? I'm now planning a '00' gauge model of Clayton Tunnel on the Brighton main line, along with all the gizmos that you have introduced and demonstrated to make a more modern DCC layout. Thank you Charlie, and here's to the next 109
What a cracking comment mate (you never left your name). I do so hope that you haven't just given away a fortune for free to Hornby! Good ideas are rare, great ideas are ....... very! Regards Charlie
I did find it very useful to put a small Neodym-Magnet on my screwdriver (near the handle, so it is out of the way). It helps pulling out the screws, and of course putting them back in.
Not trying to be a smart arse but you are aware that one can magnetise any steel screwdriver to do this permanently! Get that magnet and in one smooth motion rub it down the full length of the metal shaft of the screw driver (steady now, no silly comments! :D ). Now lift the magnet clean off the screwdriver at the end of the motion. Do NOT under any circumstances rub it back up the shaft the opposite way! Now comes the tricky bit, with out letting the magnet slam into/onto the shaft, connect it at the top again exactly the way you did at the beginning (North - South as before of the magnet), and draw it back down the shaft like you did the first time. Repeat this at least 10-20 times until the magnetic field in the screwdriver is strong enough to pick up and hold any screw sizes your inclined to be using with said screwdriver. When this effect starts to wear off (many months to years later depending on treatment of screwdriver) just reapply like you did the first time. Things that will effect the induced magnetic field are, dropping it/slamming it into onto things, throwing it into a tool box full of other metallic bits an bobs, placing it next to any magnetic fields stronger than that induced into the screwdriver...... you get the picture, look after it.
@@gibsonethirty2836 Yes, of course, I know that, I'm an electrician. But I'm also a bone-lazy guy. When I want to get a screw out, then I want it now. I have always several magnets of different size in reach and when I need one, I stick it to my screwdriver and put it back afterwards. I also have a magnetizer/demagnetizer in my toolbox, but, as said, I'm lazy...;-)
@@andreasekart3853Hey, I'm also a Sparky (plus I did my Electrical/Electronic Deg). Small world lol. Just putting it out there as some have no idea and its always useful info to know. Take care. :D
Hi Charlie, very informative. Spare a thought for us poor N Gaugers, all the problems you encountered are far greater, the locos are even more delicate. Something does not go as easy as it should and suddenly your careful handling goes out of the window while you concentrate on the problem in hand and serous damage can occur.
Have also been to Beer, great place....if working ok leave it alone, a friend who had a Jaguar never serviced it...ran for over 25 yrs with original oil never changed anything. Great video as always
Very good video Charlie. I’ve not long maintained my fleet of 30+ plus locos and could’ve used with that grease set! Cleaning wheels, pick ups and grease etc. I noticed that they all improved in performance, however that was after storing for 5+ years. I believe it is worth doing if needed but agree with the principle of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”
Another god one Charlie. Yes, track cleaning video would be great. I use guitar plectrums, (picks), to prise locos apart. You can get very thin ones, (0.71 mm), and they are all chamfered so no hard edges. Plus they come in pretty colours! Pete
What a great idea. I have tens of them and never thought of using them. Although I haven’t tried it yet a plectrum would seem to be the ideal shape and size.
I like the idea of guitar plectrums however being a non-musical type I don't have any, but currently I use old bank cards. They're also quite thin and strong. Card can be easily damaged (business cards) and I don't have them either.
@@gamerdruid7605 Get them from Amazon. £3.49 for 12 - 0.41 mm thick. Bank cards have sharp edges. These picks are made from gel. They did not have this thickness when I bought them but the 0.71 mm ones I have are OK.
Hi Charlie great video the moto if it aint broke dont fixit i use to run a Preventive maintenance system which cost more than the equipment being maintained unless it was a timex item i.e seals etc, 100 pecent IPA if not avalible you can still use 75 iIPA if you run it through a molecular sieve which is not avalibel from your local supermarket so the next best thing is common tabel salt.poor half a cup of tabel salt into you week IPA the sailt will not desolve,the salt will remove the water from the IPA in about 30 min draw of the IPA just above the salt 100 persent IPA the salt can then be dried out and used again.
really timely video as I have just taken apart an old HST, Princess Elizabeth and Mallard. Sadly even after careful cleaning the first two lack power and Mallard motor runs great except motor gears slip off the geared axles... back to the drawing board
Very informative as ever Mr C.. luckily I refrained from using some light glue .. !! Re servicing, it is surely vital that owners can get into the locos, and it's not impressive when when we can't.. the Hornby standard diesel shunter has 2 plastic clips to take the cab off the chassis and away from engine cover.. have wrecked 3 such locos now!! Hidden bluetack helps...!
Tip with super glue if you stick yourself together with it. Hot water will generally weaken the bond (as will heat generally, which is why it fails after a while). And yes, it was developed in the Vietnam war by the US military as a quick way of stitching wounds in the field. Medical grade versions are still used in a&e departments. Another good, helpful video.
Charlie, When I modelled in " 0" gauge way back in the mists of time and we used big pitman motors with brass gears. we ran the gears in with graphite grease. Then washed the grease away with methelated spirit. Then put a dab of light grease on the gears and oiled any bearing etc. with Singer sewing machine oil. Tri-ang in the 60's sold a really nice oil in a bottle for model trains and for their racing car model's.Cheers, Chris Perry.
Hi Charlie, this is a great video indeed. It is quite rare to see modellers are showing how to maintain locos on their channels. I wish to see your methods of track cleaning! Thanks.
Interesting video Charlie, I've got a few really old triang locomotives and while I do service and clean the motors. But after watching your demo, I think I'm going to be more fussy about the oils and grease I use. Thanks for all you do, I like to watch because you're human and everything is not always perfect just like real life but you take pride in what you do. As some others have said I would like to see you track cleaning, My experience is 30years old when my son had a layout, and a lot has changed since then. Take care and stay safe, Eddy xx
G'Day Charlie. I always give your video's a thumbs up matey! :D Over the years I have found that using grease and oils in our Loco's/rolling stock leads to a gunk build up that will eventually cause some serious issues with our Loco's/rolling stock. As your quite aware its because the lubricants we use are wet and sticky by nature. So I have stopped using them altogether. Instead I now use a dry lubricate - Graphite Powder. In fact its the same stuff that Kadee use for their couplers. Works a treat on all moving parts and is not a dirt magnet. All you need is a little puff of powder onto any moving surface and your good to go. Lasts an incredible amount of time between applications, the only down side is it can get everywhere and make for dark smudges if your not careful. As to getting items clean before re-lubricating, I use contact cleaner in a spray can and blast the crud right off.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm using a product from my local hobby electronics store Charlie. There are several types around that can be found from almost any electronic hobby shop. My hobby shop here is called Jaycar and the one they sell is called "Electronic Cleaning Solvent Spray". www.jaycar.com.au/electronic-cleaning-solvent-spray-can/p/NA1004 or if I'm in Perth I sometimes grab these from Altronics www.altronics.com.au/p/t3061a-chemtools-contact-cleaning-lube-aerosol-175g/ or www.altronics.com.au/p/t3066-electronic-cleaning-solvent-aerosol-175g/ or www.altronics.com.au/p/t3061-contact-cleaning-lube-aerosol-175g/ Any of the above work fine.
Hi Charlie. Such a useful video - many, many thanks. By pure coincidence today I unpacked a Bachmann Class 25 which I'd bought at auction last month so it was good to see how you serviced it. Especially as mine is an earlier incarnation, without DCC/sound and with no notes about how to service it on the exploded diagram of parts. I think mine (D5211) was produced in 2007. It has an extra equipment box modelled below the underframe taking up all the space where yours has a gap; I presume this represents an earlier prototype.
I always service locos when I get them, new or old. So many times they are dripping in oil or filthy. After that, they only get wheels and contacts cleaned until they start playing up. Very informative video as usual Charlie👍
Hi Charlie, Another informative video. One thing worth mentioning when refitting locomotive bodies is best practice when refitting the self tapping screws into plastic, you should always slowly back the screw up until you feel it drop into the thread that's been cut other wise you can cut another thread. You can eventually cut too many threads leaving leaving a screw sized hole with no thread. Regards, David.
I have 11 locos (only sadly) but they are all run regularly to a timetable for 5 months each year. Some, Airfix, Hornby and Mainline were purchased in the early 80s, used for a year and then put away until 2018. Some new ones have been purchased after that date. The old ones were serviced by me in 2018 before being converted to DCC. Since then they have never has a service except an annual oiling, since they are all steam. All except 2 are hard wired and so servicing is a particular pain. They all still run perfectly after 5 years and I do not intend to service them until they start to misbehave. I have been worrying about the lack of servicing but no longer thanks to your video.
I echo the good supportive comments. Um, cleaning the wheel treads and then running the loco's on the uncleaned track is undoing the the tread cleaning and vice-versa. The points and frog tend to collect gunk (where there are wheel power gaps and reconnections causing tiny arcing), any place the loco wheels spin lays gunk on rail sides (not the tops), and finally you will find that where the loco sits (especially on electrified track) over time, is another place where the gunk accumulates. The removal of axles... stick in your "prybar" and once a tab is dislodged, you stick in a corner of your business card to keep it from relocking. And I have found that releasing one "end" at a time puts enough force to bend that axle retaining plate. I pry one side, stick in flat object and pry the other side. On some wheel pick-ups, it's the end of the axles that serve as electrical connections 'as well as' bearings to keep them rolling nicely-but that sometimes requires more dismantling of the bogie/truck assembly (which is also on some tender locomotives' tenders)... to which if there isn't electrical pick up, could be installed with simple brass sheeting and wiring-for those savvy with fine dcc soldering. Arcing is a great gunk accumulater... until you wanna clean and have your loco's running top notch. John BC, Canada
Great video Charlie and very informative Your comment at the end to the manufactures is spot on I’ve a Heljan class 33 it came with no maintenance instructions whatsoever go thing it runs well on my rolling road smooth as a pancake so perhaps what you say about if it’s running well leave it alone.
Thanks Charlie. You can buy the Woodlands Scenic oils and grease separately, I know this because I have both oils you used. Used to use the one you got from Gaugemaster for everything which I found to my cost is no good for plastic gears. Still use it on metal moving parts but use the Woodland Scenic oil on gears now! Someone may learn from my mistakes! 🙂 Track cleaning would be a good video as there are so many different products on the market and some of them do damage the rail chairs. Again, learnt at my cost! 👍👏👏👏
@@ChadwickModelRailway i'm perfectly serious. whenever i see a good video on this subject i add it to the playlist. yours is the fourth and it is good because your camera is of good quality and it is filmed well so i can see exactly what you're doing.
@@ChadwickModelRailway and by the way i had to look up "taking the mickey"- never heard that one. i'm learning all kinds of useful British phrases from your channel! ("top shelf" was my fave lol)
Hi Charlie, thank you for your as always interesting und informative Video! Thank you for your helpful advices! All the best to you from Germany! Best regards Günter
@@ChadwickModelRailway After checking many of the videos I watch I think anything over 10% is doing good. It seems the more views they have the lower the like percentage is. Keep up the good work.
So that's what business cards are good for. I will use that tip. Also there's a developing conversation about track cleaning products used. Some like alcohol actually work against keep track clean over time. Gleaming seems to be becoming a way to take out fine scratches . I have noticed over the years that new track seems to stay cleaner until I used a "bright boy" track cleaner. Then I had to clean more often. More investigation needed. Years ago on my DC layout "Wahl" hair clipper oil saved my layout. It even worked on brass rail so we didn't have to clean as often. Hummm!
Hi Charlie, I had my N Gauge 40141 die on me couple of months ago, bought it in Sept 2018 off ebay for £279 so naturally was devastated, It was a DCC sound version, sent it to a friend "Deltic Napier" and it was the motor, he replaced the motor and it now runs better than it did before.
Hi Charlie nice to see you back at Chadwick another informative video of how to service our locos the amount of time we do this task to keep our trains in tip top condition it’s like doing an apprenticeship at crewe works I did something similar to my class 43 midland mainline hst ringfield motor that is now dcc fitted the grease from woodland scenics is a handy maintenance tool to have as well as the light oil where do you buy your cleaning alcohol from finally I have got trains running again at Beighton Parkway that used to be in my loft but after my knee replacement loft ladders are abit tricky so I have set up a layout in my shed I would like to thank you for all the inspiration from your great videos talking about and sharing your experiences to help modellers like myself and others to create our great hobby as I said to my wife it’s not just toy trains it’s a combination of computers,electronics and trains keep making these great videos Charlie. Kind Regards Kev (Beighton Parkway) Sheffield
Another amazing and informative video. I don’t know how you dared prize one of the locos apart I would for sure have broken it. Great piece of advice at the end. If it ain’t broke dont fix it. It is a shame that manufacturers don’t make it easy to service and maintain. As a N gauger not sure that is a proper word but i will leave any serious servicing to an expect when needed.
Hi Charlie Great video I use Woodland Scenics HO loco cleaner, I think Gaugemaster supply the same one rebadged. Cleans the wheels of all vehicles, and have used it at exhibitions, normally all loco's get done before the public gets in in the morning, as part of the setup procedures. Just wish they did an O gauge version. Paul
Keeping up the high standard - excellent. Just thought to mention that you should have put the cap back on the Roket and put it in the fridge to stop it going off. Also Hob-e-Lube gear oil is available separately - it is the only one of the seven in the pack that I use. Model Rail had an article some two or three years ago on lubricants and cleaners which I found very useful. Thank you - I look forward to the next video.
Good afternoon Charlie, great maintenance video, can't say I've seen that on before. And yes more maintenance videos would be great if you have the time that is. Love your channel.
I have learnt over time to be cautious oiling connecting rods - especially if the retaining lugs are a friction fit. Very light oil can penetrate into the friction fit socket and the retaining lug loosens and will not stay inserted. N scale in particular. Screws can come loose as well but they can be cleaned and put back. Have you had any experience with Labelle lubricants? They have a lubricating powder which looks interesting (Labelle 134). I for once would be interested in seeing a comparative video on lubricants. Thanks for all the great videos - I always enjoy them.
Hi Charlie, totally agree with you that every model engine etc that you buy should come with a comprehensive step by step dismantling, servicing and of course how to put it back together. Have you done a steam loco full service video? If so, can you let me know which one it is so I can watch it. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog.
I really enjoy your videos and tutorials ... I've learned a great deal from you ... I am a continental modeller in HO gauge, but there's not much difference in ways of handling our locos and rolling stock ...Thank you once again. Take care !
Another very informative video Charlie. I must say taking a loco apart always fills me with dread, and I always seem to break off a ladder or something. As you say I really wish manufacturers would supply better information/manuals with their products, after all they are not cheap items. Yes please a track cleaning video would be very useful and thanks again for all your helpful and interesting videos.
Hi Charlie, Ahuge thank you for such an in depth look at cleaning and lubricating, not seen anyone as close up. One thing though to mention regarding oils and grease is it’s best to get as much old stuff off as you can as it attracts dirt and grime holds it in suspension then can act as a grinding paste. The loco that ran 3 seconds slower after servicing, was that due to ‘ glueing’ it’s wheels lol Would love to see a how you do track cleaning video please. Keep up the good work, kind regards Alex
Good one, thanks Charlie! Looking forward to to see your track cleaning.There are dozens of them out there from extra fine wet & dry emery paper to automatic transmission fluid ( mainly to improve conductivity) not to mention expensive proprietary products! Cheers.
Hi Charlie. Great video as always. Track cleaning video would be very helpful please. Any idea when McKinley will be back with more of there videos ?. Cheers. Keep up the good work. Keep safe. Alan
Hello again Charlie. Another great video. My layout is an end to end gwr branch layout so my locomotives only run for short periods of time. All my locomotives are bachmann steam. The problem I have found is that it's not a good idea to lubricate the motor bearing at the commutator end of the motor. It does not matter if you use a minute drop of fine lubricant or gear oil (applied using a pin) the commutator always gets contaminated causing arking and smoke. I then have to remove the motor and soak it in isopropyl alcohol, let it dry and clean the slots in the commutator. The cleaning of the commutator is a real pain as you can't see inside the end of motor. Some of my locomotives are 15 years old and still have the original motor and brushes and still perform well on my gaugemaster contoller on my dc layout. I say if it's not broken then don't fix it. As usual another superb and informative video. Stay safe and keep well. Cheers Chris.
Nice one, Charlie. Lots of good tips in here, and bang on with your exhortation to manufacturers at the end. Slightly worried that someone might have stopped the video at 16:40 and put their locos in the washing machine... Must be an opportunity for someone to make brass replacement Hymek horns (assuming they're not already out there). Generally, I'd only service locos if they started making a funny noise or had been left idle for months/years. It's always worth keeping a record of any servicing you've done - plus how you'd got into the loco, as you'll find when you get older you forget how you did it and have to go through the whole discovery process again, with the risk of breaking those damn plastic clip things. A good old fashioned card index works, but there are modern alternatives... I like to use a roll of sellotape to keep screws and miscellaneous flying bits together.
Excellent as always. Really helpful. Agree with your comments to manufacturers and would add that they give an idea of service intervals. My Hymec is a 1970’s Hornby/Triang R357. Try servicing the motor on this one! 😁 For gears I find Tamiya Ceramic Grease 10G is light enough and coats the gears without “spinning off” (if that makes sense) video on track cleaning would be great. I have a Woodlands Scenics track cleaning kit. Useful but would like your take on it Cheers Steve (Redbank)
Hi Charlie, another informative video. I do my maintenance/servicing when they won't run. Most of my locos and rolling stock are over 50 years old (Triang) and still run. (I'm 61 years young) I've converted all the locos to DCC and replaced the older style wheels too. I enjoy the challenge. It might not bring joy to the purest. Rgds Stewart from Down Under. PS, a video on track maintenance would good.
27:38 Missed one! Thanks Charlie. Another thoroughly informative video. Yes, I'm a "if it ain't broke..." guy. But in my line of work I do do preventive maintenance on industrial machines and am mindful of the risk of making things worse. The Hymek has a well thought-out serviceability, which appeals to me, which shows in the running tests. For the slower result of the 25 I'd suggest that metal gears are more "sticky" than nylon ones - the excess grease that you wiped away was not needed anyway - I doubt there was no grease at all on the gears, just enough for wear protection purposes. The new grease just bunged it up again. Obviously if you reduce the speed of the Hymek to match the original lap time then the current will be lower indicting the effectiveness of the wheel cleaning (would have been interesting to separate the effects of greasing and oiling but hind sightedness is 20-20). I am into steam but you are starting to call me over to the D side. Cheers Paul
I have many locos some over 10 years old that have never been serviced and they run just as well as when I purchased them . Taking things apart will eventually cause something to break or fall off.
Many thanks for another great video Charlie (I realize I'm late to the party as this was published some four months ago!). Someone may have already suggested this but I picked up a toolkit from iFixit which I find very useful for maintenance on my N gauge locomotives.These kits are primarily designed for working on mobile phones and computers and include a variety of very small screwdrivers as well as prying tools which have proven to be immensely useful.
Hi Charlie, I've cleaned my locos with lighter fluid and ear buds. Then I use la-belle oils (I think thats how it's spelt). Great video keep them coming.
Great vid Charlie, I've two Gaugemaster wheel cleaners that just sit on the track, put the power through then sit the loco on top of the wire brushes, really simple. Regards Terry
Thanks for a very informative video and please do one about track cleaning. Now just got to build up enough gulp to have a go at servicing one of my less well performing engines ;-)
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Charlie another great informative video I might be wrong but I think your the only one that has covered loco maintenance and thorough wheel cleaning well done your video has certainly answered my questions.
Thanks Mark, what a heartwarming comment.
Yes, indeed. My comment is similar.
@@ChadwickModelRailway That bit about inverting the rolling road to allow wheel cleaning is just the best, thank you. I have one of those for N Gauge.
Btw, those brass rollers also need periodic cleaning. I think some of our cleaning issues arise from contacting two differing metals ie; brass or phosphor bronze pressing on stainless steel or nickel silver with current passing though it. We might be back to chemicals only the other way round, with electrolytic oxidation occurring to producing high resistance points between the differing metals.
@@motorheadmalc Have a look at Sams' Trains. He does lots on New engine appraisals and servicing videos.
@@richardclowes6123thank you, I will.
As usual a really good video. And yes, a track cleaning video would be great. Thanks again.
Thanks Alan, then that’s what I shall film.
Regards Charlie
From a chemistry standpoint, a water-alcohol mixture forms what is called an azeotrope. This mixture acts like a single liquid, not like sand and rocks mixed together, which will separate out (this is why mixed drinks don't turn into alcohol at the top and water at the bottom). It boils at a single temperature. As such, the alcohol & water evaporate simultaneously, so you'll never have the corrosive properties of water to worry about. No harm using the pure stuff, but really no need, either.
By the way, your videos are brilliant, well done.
Great comment TD. Regards Charlie.
My first subscription ever on the WWW. I've invested in an 0 gauge model railway that hasn't been used in more than twenty years. Four hundred foot of track, too many rolling stocks to count and eight (?) locomotives. I'm seventy-four years old and, yes, it's for my grandsons (Ha Ha!). A great adventure coming up. Thank you for your excellent website.
Thanks Charles, I’m so pleased that you found my videos useful.
Regards, Charlie.
Isopropyl alcohol and water form an azeotrope, which means they form a mixture that is unable to be separated with a simple distillation. As such, the IPA and water portions of any strength of IPA evaporate at the same rate, but the higher the percentage of water, the longer the drying time. Prolonged exposure to IPA can degrade/stain some plastics like PVC or styrenes.
Great info Custardo, many thanks.
Yes unless the bottle is very well sealed the 99.9% Propan-2-ol (IPA) will soon end up as 91% by volume the rest water absorbed from the air - can remove it by storing the IPA over molecular sieves but may be over the top of model rail use.
Wow, what a great comment.
Happy new year Charlie, hopefully we will get through this pandemic soon. I wish to compliment you on your superb videos, they are excellent in terms of content, detail and you “explain as you go”...... You also give candid opinions on products, which you substantiate with evidence.....this is what we all need. You said that in a “previous incarnation” you worked with helicopters, well the methodical detail of your profession is well and truly evident in your videos. My own layout is 12ft x 40ft. DCC, with 131 points, all mechanical, “hand from the sky”, operated, and I have no intention to electrify as I love the chance to run up and down checking track etc. Please continue your marvelous videos....
What a truly heartwarming comment Brian. However, I would like to see you dashing around changing the points by hand! Stay safe mate, regards Charlie.
Yet another good little film. Something of interest for you is something you may of may or not know is that in the factory where Bachmann model locomotives are assembled they grease the cogs and sprockets which is fine. But quite often on some of the Bachmann steam locomotives they over do it with the greasing lead to locomotives not preforming as well as they should. I was told this years and years ago and not long after I brought a Bachmann steam locomotive snd it did not preform very well so someone from the model railway society I used to belong to offered to take my loco away and remove the grease and then oil it instead. When I got my locomotive back I found it worked a lot lot better. I haven't had any trouble with any other Bachmann locomotives I have brought since wich I am glad but my friend who is in the know said it would be wise to remove the grease on all my Bachmann steam locomotives and oil them instead which I have not got around to do but I will one day.
What an interesting comment Matthew. Yes I had heard that some locos were supplied with too much grease, which gets even worse over time of course, as it dries out. regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Thanks for update looking forward to more videos from you and McKinley. Regards Alan
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Alan. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie thanks yet another top notch video. I think your maxim of " if it ain't broke don't fix it" is a really good one. I think monitoring loco performance and watching for the degradation of performance is the best way of deciding when to intervene. I too have noted less performance when I've serviced which also reinforces the stand off approach. Thanks for the vid its all enlightening. Shame its two weeks to the next but it'll be worth the wait!!!
What a heart warming comment Will. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Charlie, most entertaining.
When using the superglue, I note you pour out some and then reach across that to work on the loco; as a matter of process, it seems better to have the glue beyond your normal reach!
For alcohol, the free ions are only released when there is water present (like soap); hence an amount of water is needed to make the magic work!
Four cleaning functions; the chemical route splits into two, for surfactant and for solvent. Surfactants allow polar solvents (like water) to be effective (as soap removing oil and grease). Solvents dissolve the item directly (like petrol dissolving grease until it is so runny that you can wipe it off).
When you remove the excess grease from the end of the worm, the best place to put that grease is back onto the worm, within the working area of that worm's thread.
For the contacts inside the bodyshell, using contact cleaner and contact grease ensures the contact area is clean and maintains contact.
I like the idea of inverting the rolling road with books; cheaper than the commercial versions, and potentially more learned!
The Hymek does show the pickups more clearly, so allows these to be cleaned before reassembly; again, you might want to clean the wheels inside before stripping down, so the contacts are then put back into a clean environment. All a matter of how dirty the system is!
BTW, when we first saw the Atlantic, it was sparking as it paused; it appears the rear axle of the front bogie was causing the momentary short, which paused the operation. (Not sure why the running-in would improve that, but...)
Thanks for the entertainment!
Hi Tom,
The Atlantic was a complete nightmare and the sparking soon disappeared without trace.
I'm pleased that you found the inverted rolling road interesting. I've been told that a commercial adapter is available for this. Regards Charlie
Charlie, Yes, James lists the inverted rolling road. (www.dcctrainautomation.co.uk/marrion-zeller-upside-down-system-kurt-h0.html). There is a RUclips clip that shows the use, with elastic bands to hold the loco against the rolling road. Obviously pony trucks, etc, are not supported, but they don’t need the rolling road.
ruclips.net/video/wHz0We26MEA/видео.html is the RUclips clip; it’s in German, but you get the gist by watching the pictures.
Thanks Tom, great info as usual.
Regards Charlie
Great use of the Rolling Road. Never thought about turning it upside down like that. Good idea. 👍
Paul, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Another great and informative video Charlie. Agree about the problems you can come across in actually getting into a loco for maintenance. A bit more thought from the manufacturers wouldn't go amiss. Cheers Euan
So true Euan.
Hi Charlie
A great instructional video. If over the years I had used your foam mat idea I could have saved many hours of my time which was spent crawling around looking for parts on the tiles.
Cheers and stay safe.
Paul from Zillmere
Paul, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
The accessibility to the gears of modern model locos is a pet peeve of mine. Older locos you just popped the shell off and there is it's guts for all to see. Now a days you pop the shell off (if you can figure out how) and it's chocked full of stuff and the actual moving parts are hidden away under weights and/or cowling. Infuriating... I suspect it's mostly done to void your warranty if they see you've moved anything when you inevitably send it back for a fix. Another great informative video Charlie, good job!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video, and you’re on my side regarding manufacturers!
Chadwick Model Railway yes, it seems that the manufacturers prepare the "oiling diagram" without speakers and DCC chip then expect you to figure out how to "oil and grease" without removing the extra bits. Too late for the older locos but new ones should plan for cleaning and lubrication even if it is a few more screws or tabs and warnings on the instructions.
Another great video Charlie, in my engineering days I was taught “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” the phrase has served me well over the years.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Barry, regards Charlie
In the railway engineering game that I'm now retired from preventable maintenance was the mantra that Irish Rail went by, I know there 00 gauge but the cost of the average loco @€150-€250:00 their not cheap.
Retired Irish Rail Craftsmen.
Dear Charly,
there are some points I'd to add to you for your layout to help you.
I. Detailing can give some extra dot we do long for
So if you like to give your loco drivers a last touch you could add some wash (thinned colour of darkee tone) to the face. A very thinned dark flesh to imitate the shadows in the face making them alive. Also on the uniform a deeper blue/antrazith colour highly thinned will run into the grooves stuck there giving some imitated shadow and bringing the figure a last touch - it is allways easily done at maintenance your locos. Also you could pronounce the detailing on the bulkhead and dashboard, too, if you like.
II.
The sad guy with the sound
issue
To reduce the cello body sound of the viaduct you can fill it with styropour balls (may be easiest to bring in through a drilled hole from the "backside") to minimize the acoustic volume of the physically empty but acoustically active body?
III. Night shift guy for the 24h journey?
I am a bit irritated, because - why were there TWO guys in a loco on a BR diesel loco placed in the cabin?
Best wishes to you and thanks you from Berlin, Chris
Interesting points Chris, many thanks.
However, during this period in time, there were always 2 crew unless the loco was running light. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. One thing I noticed was how encased the worm gears on the class 25 are. Maybe the manufacturers ought to have put an access hole in so that the worm drive is accessible through the side of the plastic casing rather than having to poke it in at the ends like you did there. Ditto for the Hymek, the gears train is right inside the bogie so maybe a hatch that the nozzle or needle might go through would be useful.
I’m sure that you’re right, they might propose a maintenance regime, but it’s very hard to carry out. Regards Charlie
Nice video thanks. I still have the locos I had in my late teens - 60s-70s vintage and I never maintained them. Returned to the hobby just last year, and they still run after all those years in storage. They don't run perfectly however, so I have been doing the cleaning and lubrication thing. Even with moderate neglect these old locos (Hornby Dublo and the American Tyco [early models]) seem to be indestructible.
There are lessons to be learned here about old school technology. Have a great Christmas, regards Charlie
Blue foam under the cradle. Geez, I've been doing this thirty years, and I learn this from you! Great job with this one, Charlie! You're making good use of the two week schedule. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks very kind of you to say so.
Yes to the track cleaning video, thanks
It’s a deal.
Its Friday, its a quarter to 12... It's Crackerjack,..No, No, No ....it's time to make coffee and sit down and await Charlie to upload latest Chadwick video.. Oh how wonderful the simple things in life...
Chris, you’re far too kind mate
I've now watched all 109 videos over the last two weeks in their entirety, yes, even the hand sanitiser ones!
I have learned so much, and though my chosen gauge is 'N' gauge, most of the content can be applied to my basic modelling skills which have no doubt benefitted from this superb channel.
As for DCC, I was never a fan of the sound as I thought it was always too quiet, especially in 'N' gauge but I appreciate all the extras and especially the computer integration with block control.
I think the manufacturers have missed a trick with DCC sound. Last year, I visited the Hornby centre down in Margate and met the CEO (sorry, forgot his name) and mentioned an idea I had. His reaction was one of interest, and it would not surprise me to see my idea come to fruition in the next few years. As for the idea, well I'm keeping that to myself for now as it may well be the 'next big thing' ???
I'm now planning a '00' gauge model of Clayton Tunnel on the Brighton main line, along with all the gizmos that you have introduced and demonstrated to make a more modern DCC layout.
Thank you Charlie, and here's to the next 109
What a cracking comment mate (you never left your name).
I do so hope that you haven't just given away a fortune for free to Hornby!
Good ideas are rare, great ideas are ....... very!
Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, very educational. I have a couple of noisy diesels that I am going to have a look at with a view to lubricating them.
Just don’t do anything too drastic, regards Charlie
I did find it very useful to put a small Neodym-Magnet on my screwdriver (near the handle, so it is out of the way).
It helps pulling out the screws, and of course putting them back in.
What a cracking idea Andreas.
Not trying to be a smart arse but you are aware that one can magnetise any steel screwdriver to do this permanently! Get that magnet and in one smooth motion rub it down the full length of the metal shaft of the screw driver (steady now, no silly comments! :D ). Now lift the magnet clean off the screwdriver at the end of the motion. Do NOT under any circumstances rub it back up the shaft the opposite way! Now comes the tricky bit, with out letting the magnet slam into/onto the shaft, connect it at the top again exactly the way you did at the beginning (North - South as before of the magnet), and draw it back down the shaft like you did the first time. Repeat this at least 10-20 times until the magnetic field in the screwdriver is strong enough to pick up and hold any screw sizes your inclined to be using with said screwdriver.
When this effect starts to wear off (many months to years later depending on treatment of screwdriver) just reapply like you did the first time. Things that will effect the induced magnetic field are, dropping it/slamming it into onto things, throwing it into a tool box full of other metallic bits an bobs, placing it next to any magnetic fields stronger than that induced into the screwdriver...... you get the picture, look after it.
@@gibsonethirty2836 Yes, of course, I know that, I'm an electrician. But I'm also a bone-lazy guy. When I want to get a screw out, then I want it now.
I have always several magnets of different size in reach and when I need one, I stick it to my screwdriver and put it back afterwards. I also have
a magnetizer/demagnetizer in my toolbox, but, as said, I'm lazy...;-)
@@andreasekart3853Hey, I'm also a Sparky (plus I did my Electrical/Electronic Deg). Small world lol. Just putting it out there as some have no idea and its always useful info to know. Take care. :D
Hi Charlie, very informative. Spare a thought for us poor N Gaugers, all the problems you encountered are far greater, the locos are even more delicate. Something does not go as easy as it should and suddenly your careful handling goes out of the window while you concentrate on the problem in hand and serous damage can occur.
So very true. I regularly break stuff even when trying to be careful. For you guys Paul, it must be dreadful.
always good to get another take on things, yes a track cleaning vid would be good, look forwards to that!
It’s a deal buddy.
Have also been to Beer, great place....if working ok leave it alone, a friend who had a Jaguar never serviced it...ran for over 25 yrs with original oil never changed anything. Great video as always
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it David.
Very good video Charlie. I’ve not long maintained my fleet of 30+ plus locos and could’ve used with that grease set! Cleaning wheels, pick ups and grease etc. I noticed that they all improved in performance, however that was after storing for 5+ years. I believe it is worth doing if needed but agree with the principle of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Lewis.
Another god one Charlie. Yes, track cleaning video would be great. I use guitar plectrums, (picks), to prise locos apart. You can get very thin ones, (0.71 mm), and they are all chamfered so no hard edges. Plus they come in pretty colours! Pete
Great suggestion Pete, I'll look into getting some. Regards Charlie
What a great idea. I have tens of them and never thought of using them. Although I haven’t tried it yet a plectrum would seem to be the ideal shape and size.
Well well, what a great idea, i play guitar myself and never thought of using plectrums.. excellent, thank you...
I like the idea of guitar plectrums however being a non-musical type I don't have any, but currently I use old bank cards. They're also quite thin and strong. Card can be easily damaged (business cards) and I don't have them either.
@@gamerdruid7605 Get them from Amazon. £3.49 for 12 - 0.41 mm thick. Bank cards have sharp edges. These picks are made from gel. They did not have this thickness when I bought them but the 0.71 mm ones I have are OK.
Hi Charlie great video the moto if it aint broke dont fixit i use to run a Preventive maintenance system which cost more than the equipment being maintained unless it was a timex item i.e seals etc, 100 pecent IPA if not avalible
you can still use 75 iIPA if you run it through a molecular sieve which is not avalibel from your local supermarket so the next best thing is common tabel salt.poor half a cup of tabel salt into you week IPA the sailt will not desolve,the salt will remove the water from the IPA in about 30 min draw of the IPA just above the salt 100 persent IPA the salt can then be dried out and used again.
Wow, what a great tip Ken.
Regards Charlie
really timely video as I have just taken apart an old HST, Princess Elizabeth and Mallard. Sadly even after careful cleaning the first two lack power and Mallard motor runs great except motor gears slip off the geared axles... back to the drawing board
It's a nightmare Alastair.
Very informative as ever Mr C.. luckily I refrained from using some light glue .. !! Re servicing, it is surely vital that owners can get into the locos, and it's not impressive when when we can't.. the Hornby standard diesel shunter has 2 plastic clips to take the cab off the chassis and away from engine cover.. have wrecked 3 such locos now!! Hidden bluetack helps...!
Yes it’s a shocking situation Jimmy.
Tip with super glue if you stick yourself together with it. Hot water will generally weaken the bond (as will heat generally, which is why it fails after a while). And yes, it was developed in the Vietnam war by the US military as a quick way of stitching wounds in the field. Medical grade versions are still used in a&e departments.
Another good, helpful video.
I took the easy way out and bought some dissolving agent. I never knew that it even existed.
@@ChadwickModelRailway i didn't know it existed either. Probably a wiser option than a scalpel.
Charlie, When I modelled in " 0" gauge way back in the mists of time and we used big pitman motors with brass gears. we ran the gears in with graphite grease. Then washed the grease away with methelated spirit. Then put a dab of light grease on the gears and oiled any bearing etc. with Singer sewing machine oil. Tri-ang in the 60's sold a really nice oil in a bottle for model trains and for their racing car model's.Cheers, Chris Perry.
Those were much simpler times Ainsley.
Excellent informative video , at 41:34 you were speaking my mind the past 16 years when trying to service my locos. Well done mate.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Paul.
a video about track cleaning? YES!
It’s a deal Tszki
Charlie yet another great video thankyou. A video on track cleaning would be very useful
Thanks H, I’m so pleased you enjoyed it and yes, track cleaning will be next.
Layout is really looking great. So neat and clean.
Only until it’s weathered Bob. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, this is a great video indeed. It is quite rare to see modellers are showing how to maintain locos on their channels. I wish to see your methods of track cleaning! Thanks.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it, thank you very much
Interesting video Charlie, I've got a few really old triang locomotives and while I do service and clean the motors. But after watching your demo, I think I'm going to be more fussy about the oils and grease I use. Thanks for all you do, I like to watch because you're human and everything is not always perfect just like real life but you take pride in what you do. As some others have said I would like to see you track cleaning, My experience is 30years old when my son had a layout, and a lot has changed since then. Take care and stay safe, Eddy xx
What a heartwarming comment Eddy. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
Yes. Track cleaning would be a great idea.
I’ve started researching it already David, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway research non polar cleaners;)
G'Day Charlie.
I always give your video's a thumbs up matey! :D
Over the years I have found that using grease and oils in our Loco's/rolling stock leads to a gunk build up that will eventually cause some serious issues with our Loco's/rolling stock. As your quite aware its because the lubricants we use are wet and sticky by nature. So I have stopped using them altogether. Instead I now use a dry lubricate - Graphite Powder. In fact its the same stuff that Kadee use for their couplers. Works a treat on all moving parts and is not a dirt magnet. All you need is a little puff of powder onto any moving surface and your good to go. Lasts an incredible amount of time between applications, the only down side is it can get everywhere and make for dark smudges if your not careful.
As to getting items clean before re-lubricating, I use contact cleaner in a spray can and blast the crud right off.
Great comment G130, but what are you using as your contact cleaner?
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm using a product from my local hobby electronics store Charlie. There are several types around that can be found from almost any electronic hobby shop. My hobby shop here is called Jaycar and the one they sell is called "Electronic Cleaning Solvent Spray".
www.jaycar.com.au/electronic-cleaning-solvent-spray-can/p/NA1004
or if I'm in Perth I sometimes grab these from Altronics
www.altronics.com.au/p/t3061a-chemtools-contact-cleaning-lube-aerosol-175g/
or
www.altronics.com.au/p/t3066-electronic-cleaning-solvent-aerosol-175g/
or
www.altronics.com.au/p/t3061-contact-cleaning-lube-aerosol-175g/
Any of the above work fine.
Hi Charlie. Such a useful video - many, many thanks. By pure coincidence today I unpacked a Bachmann Class 25 which I'd bought at auction last month so it was good to see how you serviced it. Especially as mine is an earlier incarnation, without DCC/sound and with no notes about how to service it on the exploded diagram of parts. I think mine (D5211) was produced in 2007. It has an extra equipment box modelled below the underframe taking up all the space where yours has a gap; I presume this represents an earlier prototype.
Will I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie, as you stated, when cleaning you need to use TACT- Temperature, agitation, chemical and Time. Just an easy way to remember ;)
That’s brilliant, Ken. Regards, Charlie.
I always service locos when I get them, new or old. So many times they are dripping in oil or filthy.
After that, they only get wheels and contacts cleaned until they start playing up.
Very informative video as usual Charlie👍
A good strategy Gerry, regards Charlie
Very informative and yes to the track cleaning please.
No probs Paul.
Hi Charlie, Another informative video. One thing worth mentioning when refitting locomotive bodies is best practice when refitting the self tapping screws into plastic, you should always slowly back the screw up until you feel it drop into the thread that's been cut other wise you can cut another thread. You can eventually cut too many threads leaving leaving a screw sized hole with no thread. Regards, David.
Now there’s an interesting point I never thought of David, regards Charlie
I have 11 locos (only sadly) but they are all run regularly to a timetable for 5 months each year. Some, Airfix, Hornby and Mainline were purchased in the early 80s, used for a year and then put away until 2018. Some new ones have been purchased after that date. The old ones were serviced by me in 2018 before being converted to DCC. Since then they have never has a service except an annual oiling, since they are all steam. All except 2 are hard wired and so servicing is a particular pain. They all still run perfectly after 5 years and I do not intend to service them until they start to misbehave. I have been worrying about the lack of servicing but no longer thanks to your video.
That sounds like a good reliable strategy Nigel. Have a great Christmas, regards, Charlie
Very useful video. Thank you. And yes a track cleaning video would be welcome.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Barry.
I echo the good supportive comments. Um, cleaning the wheel treads and then running the loco's on the uncleaned track is undoing the the tread cleaning and vice-versa. The points and frog tend to collect gunk (where there are wheel power gaps and reconnections causing tiny arcing), any place the loco wheels spin lays gunk on rail sides (not the tops), and finally you will find that where the loco sits (especially on electrified track) over time, is another place where the gunk accumulates.
The removal of axles... stick in your "prybar" and once a tab is dislodged, you stick in a corner of your business card to keep it from relocking. And I have found that releasing one "end" at a time puts enough force to bend that axle retaining plate. I pry one side, stick in flat object and pry the other side. On some wheel pick-ups, it's the end of the axles that serve as electrical connections 'as well as' bearings to keep them rolling nicely-but that sometimes requires more dismantling of the bogie/truck assembly (which is also on some tender locomotives' tenders)... to which if there isn't electrical pick up, could be installed with simple brass sheeting and wiring-for those savvy with fine dcc soldering.
Arcing is a great gunk accumulater... until you wanna clean and have your loco's running top notch. John BC, Canada
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Zebrails and thanks for some great info. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Cracking demo. Your filming is so clear making it easy to follow. I have gained a great deal, thank you Charlie!
What a heartwarming comment, you’re too kind, regards Charlie
Superb video Charlie. Track cleaning would compliment this video perfectly
Thanks Clive, then that is what I shall do. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie and very informative Your comment at the end to the manufactures is spot on I’ve a Heljan class 33 it came with no maintenance instructions whatsoever go thing it runs well on my rolling road smooth as a pancake so perhaps what you say about if it’s running well leave it alone.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Kevin.
Thanks Charlie. You can buy the Woodlands Scenic oils and grease separately, I know this because I have both oils you used. Used to use the one you got from Gaugemaster for everything which I found to my cost is no good for plastic gears. Still use it on metal moving parts but use the Woodland Scenic oil on gears now!
Someone may learn from my mistakes! 🙂
Track cleaning would be a good video as there are so many different products on the market and some of them do damage the rail chairs.
Again, learnt at my cost!
👍👏👏👏
A great tip, many thanks that will come in handy. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie. Very useful as always. Track cleaning would be great.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dave, regards Charlie
tremendous video Charlie. I put it on my locomotive maintenance playlist.
I’m pretty sure you’re taking the Mickey now!
@@ChadwickModelRailway i'm perfectly serious. whenever i see a good video on this subject i add it to the playlist. yours is the fourth and it is good because your camera is of good quality and it is filmed well so i can see exactly what you're doing.
@@ChadwickModelRailway and by the way i had to look up "taking the mickey"- never heard that one. i'm learning all kinds of useful British phrases from your channel! ("top shelf" was my fave lol)
Another extremely useful video. A track cleaning video would also be of great value. Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Alec, and a track cleaning video is the next one on the list.
Good video. That class 25 was a lovely liveried loco.
John E I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Another great video! Thank you, Charlie! Yes, please do a track cleaning video.
I certainly will Michael.
Thanks, Charlie. You're the best!
Hi Charlie, thank you for your as always interesting und informative Video! Thank you for your helpful advices! All the best to you from Germany! Best regards Günter
Thanks Gunter, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
How can you have over 4000 views and only 588 thumbs up? Enjoyable video, thanks Charlie.
That’s because life isn’t fair Jim!
@@ChadwickModelRailway After checking many of the videos I watch I think anything over 10% is doing good. It seems the more views they have the lower the like percentage is. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Charlie, this is definitely the most informative loco maintenance Video on RUclips......
What a heart warming comment Andymacmac. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
So that's what business cards are good for. I will use that tip. Also there's a developing conversation about track cleaning products used. Some like alcohol actually work against keep track clean over time. Gleaming seems to be becoming a way to take out fine scratches . I have noticed over the years that new track seems to stay cleaner until I used a "bright boy" track cleaner. Then I had to clean more often. More investigation needed. Years ago on my DC layout "Wahl" hair clipper oil saved my layout. It even worked on brass rail so we didn't have to clean as often. Hummm!
You're right Bob, it's a difficult one.
Hi Charlie, I had my N Gauge 40141 die on me couple of months ago, bought it in Sept 2018 off ebay for £279 so naturally was devastated, It was a DCC sound version, sent it to a friend "Deltic Napier" and it was the motor, he replaced the motor and it now runs better than it did before.
Please reply in a new comment Steve, but I’d like to know how many hours it had run before the motor burnt out, regards Charlie
Very helpful. Thanks a lot. Greetings from the Netherlands 😊
Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie nice to see you back at Chadwick another informative video of how to service our locos the amount of time we do this task to keep our trains in tip top condition it’s like doing an apprenticeship at crewe works I did something similar to my class 43 midland mainline hst ringfield motor that is now dcc fitted the grease from woodland scenics is a handy maintenance tool to have as well as the light oil where do you buy your cleaning alcohol from finally I have got trains running again at Beighton Parkway that used to be in my loft but after my knee replacement loft ladders are abit tricky so I have set up a layout in my shed I would like to thank you for all the inspiration from your great videos talking about and sharing your experiences to help modellers like myself and others to create our great hobby as I said to my wife it’s not just toy trains it’s a combination of computers,electronics and trains keep making these great videos Charlie.
Kind Regards
Kev (Beighton Parkway)
Sheffield
What a heartwarming comment Kev, many thanks, regards Charlie
Track cleaning video? Yes please as there’s so much controversy over this topic.
Good stuff as ever 😀
Okay Bob, it's a deal.
Another informative and interesting video. Looking forward to the track cleaning and the various methods.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Phil.
Another amazing and informative video. I don’t know how you dared prize one of the locos apart I would for sure have broken it. Great piece of advice at the end. If it ain’t broke dont fix it. It is a shame that manufacturers don’t make it easy to service and maintain. As a N gauger not sure that is a proper word but i will leave any serious servicing to an expect when needed.
Thanks, Kriso, and I think you’re right leave it to an expert. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie
Great video
I use Woodland Scenics HO loco cleaner, I think Gaugemaster supply the same one rebadged. Cleans the wheels of all vehicles, and have used it at exhibitions, normally all loco's get done before the public gets in in the morning, as part of the setup procedures. Just wish they did an O gauge version.
Paul
I agree Paul that type of wheel cleaner is a godsend. Regards
Great video and yes please do one on track cleaning.
I certainly shall John, regards Charlie
Keeping up the high standard - excellent. Just thought to mention that you should have put the cap back on the Roket and put it in the fridge to stop it going off. Also Hob-e-Lube gear oil is available separately - it is the only one of the seven in the pack that I use. Model Rail had an article some two or three years ago on lubricants and cleaners which I found very useful. Thank you - I look forward to the next video.
Christopher I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Good afternoon Charlie, great maintenance video, can't say I've seen that on before. And yes more maintenance videos would be great if you have the time that is. Love your channel.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it 4E
I have learnt over time to be cautious oiling connecting rods - especially if the retaining lugs are a friction fit. Very light oil can penetrate into the friction fit socket and the retaining lug loosens and will not stay inserted. N scale in particular.
Screws can come loose as well but they can be cleaned and put back.
Have you had any experience with Labelle lubricants? They have a lubricating powder which looks interesting (Labelle 134).
I for once would be interested in seeing a comparative video on lubricants.
Thanks for all the great videos - I always enjoy them.
Thanks Malcolm, I shall certain look into a lubricant video.
Thanks Charlie, another very informative video, and yes please a video on track cleaning would be great.
Thanks Andrew, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie! Another high standard video. Well done
Thanks Mark, you’re too kind.
Hi Charlie, totally agree with you that every model engine etc that you buy should come with a comprehensive step by step dismantling, servicing and of course how to put it back together. Have you done a steam loco full service video? If so, can you let me know which one it is so I can watch it. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog.
Yes servicing is always troublesome and I’m afraid that I haven’t tackled a steamer yet.
I really enjoy your videos and tutorials ... I've learned a great deal from you ... I am a continental modeller in HO gauge, but there's not much difference in ways of handling our locos and rolling stock ...Thank you once again. Take care !
Thanks Guy, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel. Regards Charlie
Another very informative video Charlie. I must say taking a loco apart always fills me with dread, and I always seem to break off a ladder or something. As you say I really wish manufacturers would supply better information/manuals with their products, after all they are not cheap items.
Yes please a track cleaning video would be very useful and thanks again for all your helpful and interesting videos.
So true Tony and I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
Ahuge thank you for such an in depth look at cleaning and lubricating, not seen anyone as close up.
One thing though to mention regarding oils and grease is it’s best to get as much old stuff off as you can as it attracts dirt and grime holds it in suspension then can act as a grinding paste.
The loco that ran 3 seconds slower after servicing, was that due to ‘ glueing’ it’s wheels lol
Would love to see a how you do track cleaning video please.
Keep up the good work, kind regards Alex
What a heartwarming comment Alex, regards Charlie
Hope you had a lovely birthday Charlie,awesome video as always
Thanks Tez, you’re too kind. Regards Charlie
Good one, thanks Charlie! Looking forward to to see your track cleaning.There are dozens of them out there from extra fine wet & dry emery paper to automatic transmission fluid ( mainly to improve conductivity) not to mention expensive proprietary products! Cheers.
I’m dreading that video already Alan! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Great video as always. Track cleaning video would be very helpful please. Any idea when McKinley will be back with more of there videos ?. Cheers. Keep up the good work. Keep safe. Alan
Hi Alan, I do hope to be back at McKinley by the end of this month. Regards Charlie
Hello again Charlie. Another great video. My layout is an end to end gwr branch layout so my locomotives only run for short periods of time. All my locomotives are bachmann steam. The problem I have found is that it's not a good idea to lubricate the motor bearing at the commutator end of the motor. It does not matter if you use a minute drop of fine lubricant or gear oil (applied using a pin) the commutator always gets contaminated causing arking and smoke. I then have to remove the motor and soak it in isopropyl alcohol, let it dry and clean the slots in the commutator. The cleaning of the commutator is a real pain as you can't see inside the end of motor. Some of my locomotives are 15 years old and still have the original motor and brushes and still perform well on my gaugemaster contoller on my dc layout. I say if it's not broken then don't fix it. As usual another superb and informative video. Stay safe and keep well. Cheers Chris.
What a great comment Chris, many thanks, regards Charlie
Nice one, Charlie. Lots of good tips in here, and bang on with your exhortation to manufacturers at the end. Slightly worried that someone might have stopped the video at 16:40 and put their locos in the washing machine... Must be an opportunity for someone to make brass replacement Hymek horns (assuming they're not already out there).
Generally, I'd only service locos if they started making a funny noise or had been left idle for months/years. It's always worth keeping a record of any servicing you've done - plus how you'd got into the loco, as you'll find when you get older you forget how you did it and have to go through the whole discovery process again, with the risk of breaking those damn plastic clip things. A good old fashioned card index works, but there are modern alternatives...
I like to use a roll of sellotape to keep screws and miscellaneous flying bits together.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Andrew and a great sellotape tip.
Great video, yes a track cleaning one would be great, well done.
Regards
David
Thank David. Regards Charlie
Excellent as always. Really helpful. Agree with your comments to manufacturers and would add that they give an idea of service intervals. My Hymec is a 1970’s Hornby/Triang R357. Try servicing the motor on this one! 😁 For gears I find Tamiya Ceramic Grease 10G is light enough and coats the gears without “spinning off” (if that makes sense) video on track cleaning would be great. I have a Woodlands Scenics track cleaning kit. Useful but would like your take on it
Cheers Steve (Redbank)
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Steve, we’ll have to see how I get on with the track cleaning! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, another informative video. I do my maintenance/servicing when they won't run. Most of my locos and rolling stock are over 50 years old (Triang) and still run. (I'm 61 years young) I've converted all the locos to DCC and replaced the older style wheels too. I enjoy the challenge. It might not bring joy to the purest. Rgds Stewart from Down Under. PS, a video on track maintenance would good.
What a great comment Stuart. You are clearly a real Trojan. Stay safe, regards Charlie
Track cleaning would be good choice for another video.
Sorry William, I’ve already done that one. Regards Charlie
27:38 Missed one!
Thanks Charlie. Another thoroughly informative video. Yes, I'm a "if it ain't broke..." guy. But in my line of work I do do preventive maintenance on industrial machines and am mindful of the risk of making things worse.
The Hymek has a well thought-out serviceability, which appeals to me, which shows in the running tests. For the slower result of the 25 I'd suggest that metal gears are more "sticky" than nylon ones - the excess grease that you wiped away was not needed anyway - I doubt there was no grease at all on the gears, just enough for wear protection purposes. The new grease just bunged it up again.
Obviously if you reduce the speed of the Hymek to match the original lap time then the current will be lower indicting the effectiveness of the wheel cleaning (would have been interesting to separate the effects of greasing and oiling but hind sightedness is 20-20).
I am into steam but you are starting to call me over to the D side.
Cheers
Paul
What a great comment Paul. Yes the whole dilemma of loco servicing is a nightmare! Regards Charlie
Brilliant Charlie, thank you. Track cleaning video? yes please. My Lima Deltic is exactly the same to remove the body as your Hymeck.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Philip, regards Charlie
Track cleaning? Yes please Charlie!!
It’s a deal Iain.
I have many locos some over 10 years old that have never been serviced and they run just as well as when I purchased them . Taking things apart will eventually cause something to break or fall off.
I certainly understand your strategy. If it isn’t broken don’t fix it.
Great Video Charlie. Yes please track cleaning video
I’m researching it already!
Yes track cleaning would be helpful,just to know what method is best to use.Cheers
Thanks David, just hope that I get it right!
Many thanks for another great video Charlie (I realize I'm late to the party as this was published some four months ago!). Someone may have already suggested this but I picked up a toolkit from iFixit which I find very useful for maintenance on my N gauge locomotives.These kits are primarily designed for working on mobile phones and computers and include a variety of very small screwdrivers as well as prying tools which have proven to be immensely useful.
An interesting point Matthew, and I shall certainly check it out. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I've cleaned my locos with lighter fluid and ear buds. Then I use la-belle oils (I think thats how it's spelt). Great video keep them coming.
Thanks Richard, there are so good products.
Great vid Charlie, I've two Gaugemaster wheel cleaners that just sit on the track, put the power through then sit the loco on top of the wire brushes, really simple. Regards Terry
I have them too Terry. They scratch the wheels clean which promotes more carbon built up.
Thanks Charlie
I agree, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Another interesting hour or so.
regards
Gareth
Thanks Gareth, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Thanks for a very informative video and please do one about track cleaning. Now just got to build up enough gulp to have a go at servicing one of my less well performing engines ;-)
Tread carefully Gary.