1 month after using Inox I’ve had no issues what so ever. Cleaned again today and cloth was filthy but no running issues at all.👍 hoping for same again this month 🤞
When you get a notification on a friday, and the video starts with: welcome to chadwick model railway, im charlie, then you know its going to be one hell of a good weekend, allways a pleasire to watch your videos, cheers mate
You missed out ye olde (1947) cheapo method devised byJohn Allen on his Gorre & Daphetid Railroad. Rubbing the rough side of a piece of hardboard (Masonite) over the track. Can also be fitted to the bottom of a goods wagon. Another one I've read about is the Relco high frequency track cleaner, (similar model also sold by Gaugemaster) which doesn't actually clean the track and is a no-no on DCC as the DCC power will fry the HF unit, decoder and command station. IPA might not affect most paints, but could affect some. I used to use lighter fluid to clean my new second hand coaches. Worked fine on most. No damage, but on one particular brand it took the paint clean off. The Dapol cleaning wagon is a rebadged Tomix design.
Very informative as usual Charlie. many thanks. Interesting that you peg your track out on the line to dry it, how lucky you are. up here in the cold wet North West we usually have to put ours through the Mangle and finish it off on the Clothes Horse in front of the Coal Fire.
Thanks Charlie. I have been warning modellers about track rubbers for years. The reply I get is "But my club has been using them for over ten years". I the ask, "How often do you clean your track ?" and their reply is, "Before every running session...!"
I actually was looking for your particular video to link, as i still haven't cleaned track since i began using the inox! It completely eliminated that chore. Completely! I thank you once again for your video, as it's changed my model railroading life!
I think I've seen this done before Charlie?? I couldn't do the magnet trick though! Thanks for showing Innox and spreading the word on how to clean track properly! Just remember it is Innox MX3, they do make other versions not made for electrical circuits. Kind regards, Gregg.
I’m so pleased that you have found this video. Clearly your original video was the inspiration for it. Do you stay safe during these challenging times Gregg. I had one rather amusing comment earlier, someone mentioned that we should become a double act! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway You're very welcome Sir! I'm chuffed you found it and even more so that you not only understand the science behind it , but also got good results, which will only improve as you let the innox get around the layout. Maybe we could be the next 2 Ronnies??, LOL All good down here and all the best to you up there! Kind regards, Gregg .
Until a few weeks ago my layout had been largely sitting against a wall for the past 10 years, mostly for space and time pressures. As the go to track cleaning aid of my childhood, i'd just ordered a track rubber when i watched this. So after a bit of looking around i got a can of WD-40 Contact Cleaner to try and first impression is that it did a fine job. The before and after cloth test showed that it'd cleaned the rails quite a bit. In terms of running the Hornby B12 that was stuttering when running over two adjacent points no longer stutters.
Love your videos Charlie. Very informative and helpful that’s why I became a Patreon. I know it’s a lot of work involved in putting a 30min video onto RUclips. Don’t spend all your time making us weekly videos you have a life to enjoy too mate 👍🏻
Auto transmission fluid is all you need. Very cheap, a few drops every 3 or 4 meters and only every 3 months. I have not cleaned my track for over a year and it averages about 1.5 hours per day. Still enjoyed your video and excellent production. Thank you
Very interesting Charlie. A couple of years ago, after finding Track Magic to be useless, I read various arguments for and against using car transmission fluid and curiosity got the better of me so tried it in very small quantities on a small section of track with one old locomotive for a few months. Since then, I have generalised its use across the entire railway, it pulls the dirt off all wheels and rails and leaves it in a few fluid residue lumps that are easily wiped up with a cloth, and even if these are not wiped off conductivity remains 100%. So the track still needs some attention but there is no longer need to lift locomotives for cleaning. The bad press it got was undoubtedly from people whose rolling stock was very dirty so found their layout suddenly plastered in residue, but had they perservered this wouldn't have happened again. Putting too much on may also affect plastic sleepers and traction tyres, but 2 years on, in the quantities I have used, I have had no such problems. Should I re-brand this stuff and patent it as a new track cleaner?
Charlie, As always, a great informative and entertaining video. Incidentally, I use Inox and it sure is a game changer. I have used it on tracks that had a very poor or bad conductivity and where locos struggle... to smooth running locos after application. I had watched the Fishplate Films video and I thought that I'd give this fella a try. This is an Australian product. I purchased it online from Pendle Slot Racing, based in the UK. It cost me just under a tenner for it. So far in about 2 months, I have been really pleased with it. It is important to note that the cloth that you use is also equally important as you don't want strands to be caught up on your tracks. I use a jeweller's polishing cloth which has served me really well. This product is dirt cheap and available on Amazon in multi-packs.
Charlie, about the "thumbs up" button. It is a monster disguised as a Yorkie. If the thumbs up button simply added to the creators tally of "likes" it would be a Yorkie. However, it also wants to be a favorites button for the viewer and adds everything he "likes" to a favorites playlist. Therefore, the list gets packed with things I liked and want to refer to again some time, and others that I just liked but don't consider re-usable. So I NEVER click the like buttons simply to boost the creator's analytics, as much as I would like to at times. RUclips engineers have never been the best at what they try to do. When they get it right and give the viewer both a like button to score the creator and a favorites button to keep their favorites on a playlist, then I will gladly go back, watch all of your videos and like them. Some have already made my "favorites" playlist, which is what the like button really is.
Hi Charlie. Great informative video as always. I'm guilty of using a track rubber, but I don't use it that often. If you look at real railway tracks, you see that the ones in common use are shiny on the tops of the rails. The ones that are not used much tend to be dull and corroded. My answer to keeping most of my track clean is to keep running trains. And that's one of the best parts of the hobby. I only need to clean tracks inside of loco and goods shed about three times a year. As for the blades on points, I use electrical contact cleaner. It's always a pleasure to watch your video's. Stay safe and well. Cheers Chris.
Hi Charlie. I’m a newbie to the whole model train/railway business. My locos were stuttering and struggling. Watched your video, bought Inox and since cleaning the track the locos have worked better than new. Absolutely brilliant. Thanks for this great explainer video.
Great video, as always - being the newbie, I am happy to get good advise whenever. I am sure with the constant questions and pop-up subjects, there may seem no end - but you are not obligated. You have a great library as it is, so weekly, biweekly, monthly - it should be a frequent as your availability and generous heart feel like. Thanks and stay safe.
Thanks Charlie - it has simplified what should have been a simplified task that has been over complicated with all the different products and advice. Unfortunately as I run steam and many have traction tyres I am unable to use the oxy but the grasphite block sounds a great investment. I also didn’t know about the IPA and percentage.
Very informative video chalie.... As a beginner it's great to find out early before any lasting damage is done.... Like the opening made the wive look twice 😂😂... Keep up the good work looking into becoming a patron 👍
Bravo! Use those (track)rubbers to polish wood. Another frightful way to show results with those things, is rub perpendicular to the rails or across the rails and not in the same direction. That's my black and white proof immediately. I do use IPA or a piece of homosote/soundboard to clean and polish my rails. I greatly appreciate your magnet method to show not only what's come off the rubber, but in the case of steel track, tiny shavings of the metal. Granted, brass or nickle silver are not attracted to magnets... but the scratches and tiny bits of rail will be present. Thank you for this video. It speaks volumes of what I have followed the past 20-30 years. John BC, Canada
I watched the fishplate video a while ago and bought the spray version. It appears to have really improved my points which really covered with all sorts of glues and sprays. I think the regular cleaning flex op might assist too 😉
Didn't realize the damage I was doing to my track. I found a rather eccentric Australian's video and wasn't convinced. Now that I see Inox is being used on Chadwick, I pitched the track rubber and ordered a can of Inox. I will also stop using the Bachmann track cleaning car with the spring loaded abrasive block attached to the bottom of the car. Which now that I think of it, is probably like strapping that block you mentioned to the bottom of a car.
Gaugemaster Gm-Hf1 ultrasonic track cleaner worth a mention to those on DC only layouts and are just LAZY but seriously they are not bad on on garden layouts.
Another very enjoyable and informative video, thank you Charlie. I've ordered the cleaning solution which is on backorder from the same place you got yours. Looking forward to trying it out when it arrives.
Another interesting and informative video. I've used vehicle tar spot remover just spray onto a paper towel and it's also good for cleaning wheels and doesn't seem to effect paintwork.
As others have said , the goal isn’t to get the tracks clean. The goal is to keep them conductive. So removing insulators and applying things that enhance conductivity. Whether there is stuff that comes off in a rag wipe is a red herring everyone seems to fall for. If it’s traction tire residue then yes remove it , but If it’s black and conductive then leave it as it’s fine. ;) In that spirit using isopropyl due to its molecular shape attracts dirt. Clean with WD40 or mineral spirits (others in this list imgur.com/a/DYbDGfm ) then graphite is the way to go. But for those with traction tires (many locos ) inox is a no go.
InterCity-1-3-4 I disagree with you on the isopropanol argument. Yes it’s an amphiphilic molecule, but since it evaporates rapidly leaving no residue I can’t see how it will attract dirt to the rails. This can’t be said about WD40 which is a film forming water dependent.
Been following you for a year . Not just for the info but for the humor. That being said I don't know how I missed this one. I've always thought that the " rubber" was taking off a coating on the track because track cleaning after became more frequent. I've since watched a you tube video about track cleaning and his idea seemed to work. Gleeming - rubbing metal against metal. A friend came up with an article from a chemical engineer. His theory is some chemicals etch metal others don't. Ex: alcohol etches, crc26 -2 or my favorite Wahl oil ( that's a brand name for 80 wieght hair clipper oil ) , so light that if dripped on paper towel it evaporates over time without leaving a stain . Anyway, this is how I'm using their ideas and it seems to be working. I paint trains after I ballast then use track cleaner ( rubber ) to get every speck of paint and glue off. Then I gleem the track with a 5/16 washer glued to a large landscaping nail ( this is very labor intensive) . Then clean track with crc-26 or Wahl oil with a small soft cloth. After that only clean with cloth and crc26-2 or Wahl oil and wiped after that with a clean cloth. Seems longer to tell than to do. First time hard work after that easy piesy.
Very much enjoyed the intro, thought it was very funny. Interesting video, food for thought for the future, I'll have a look at this Inox. Regarding video frequency, I fully appreciate you're full time job isn't RUclips (yet!) and I assume you're doing it for your own enjoyment. So I wouldn't run the risk of it becoming a chore if it takes up a lot of time, I would much rather watch 1 good video a fortnight than 2 mediacore ones if that makes sense. However it is your choice at the end of the day. Keep up the good work! Matt
Entertaining and informative can you use inox to remove paint from the rail heads instead of using a track rubber after weathering the track. Thanks Charlie great video
Dear Sir, on 0:14 you got me thumbs up. Cheers from Brazil! Returning, after the laugh. A very good friend of mine taught me to clean computer contacts by just rubing a piece of paper (your average A4) on the contacts. For me it makes sense, as i am agaisnt using paper - any kind - to clean lenses or anything susceptible to scratching. The abrasive nature of the paper will just do the same as whatever abrasive tool you could use. Third edit. I was asked to provide the science and technology ministry with a video-class of our research. I am used to give these lectures, but they are allways with meself presenting things. Well, i am learning a lot, on how to produce teaching videos, trying to emulate on how YOU do it. Thanks a LOT!
When you hang OO gauge track out on the whirly and you use very hot water does it come out as N gauge and can you iron it to get a 3rd radius from a 4th radius?? Fantastic vid Charlie. You really put some thought and analysis into the vids really enjoyed watching! Thanks looking forward to seeing the next..
Not technically cleaning, but have you considered applying a tiny amount of ATF to your tracks? You'll never have to clean again...Edit: simply apply a bit of this automatic transmission fluid on a cotton bud, and rub it about half an inch on each rail. on small layouts one half inch is enough, on bigger layouts you can do it on 2 or 3 spots. just add it and never clean again. and remember: less is more. if it makes the tracks greasy, it's too much. won't eat up sleepers or rubber tires either.
Great info vid...I use track magic for loco maintenance only. I use a product called panel wipe prep used in the automotive repair industry with the Cmx track cleaner on automation...
Living near Toronto , Ontario Canada I was not able to find NoOx ID “A” Special, nor CRC2.26 nor Inox MX3 at the retail stores in my area. I did find DeoxIT D5 at a Sayal store and it works well to remove much of the corrosion. Using it on my tracks bought it the 1970s and 1980s. I need to get some 2000 grit wet sandpaper to do touch ups on a few heavily stained areas. That should help my previous use of the rubber-metallic track eraser.
I've used Goo gone in the cmx tanker but due to your excellent fair and neutral test of different ways and liquids I'll order the inox Thank you briilant channel
Bought the Inox from Pendle Slot Cars absolutely brilliant stuff, was amazed of how much muck that came off the wheels were the pickups run on that were only cleaned with Isopropanol the week before, totally blown away. Good video Charlie not going to use anything else in future on everything, brushes, armatures, wheels etc.
You would do well in Hollywood. Your productions are a heck of a sight better than much of what comes out of California. Thanks for another entertaining program.
I would add that if you use the sort of fake shami leather cloth you get from pound shops they hold the cleaner longer and also have a harmless abrasive action, I use a light application of graphite which keeps everything working for months.
Hi Charlie. Very contentious subject, Just watched an American chap on the same subject. Not withstanding the Aussie chap ! I, Like you, swore by IPA: BUT , 'Model trains made simple' ( ep 1 )( Sorry can't make a link) is emphatic it should be cleaned with pure acetone (in a CMX ) but as this is a polar solvent !? You then need to use a non polar solvent on your last run round, which makes even the dirt in the scratches conductive. I.E. Toluene from any decorators merchant. He also referred to dragging a large washer down the track.( Mashing ) Lightbulb ! Engineering( lapping ) fine lapping paste from any motor factor on the large washer/ weight will lap the track fine enough as on the valve seats of a motor car head. Food for thought Chris
A very interesting comment Chris thank you. I think you’ve highlighted well, the nightmare that we all face. With my old grubby track, I bring it back to life with a track rubber, and then use the Inox thereafter. It seems to work for me. Regards Charlie
I am using DW40 Specialist Contact to clean my track. It is specifically designed for cleaning electrical components. My tracks stay clean longer than using when IPA. It is also safe with plastic and paint. Got mine from ScrewFix
I do not mean the classic DW-40 lubricant. That would be a very bad idea. I mean the "WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner" made by WD-40, but this one is specialized in electric contact. It is not a lubricant, but a cleaner and enhance the conductivity once evaporated. This is used also on PCB contacts and connectors. www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1595973565-wd-40-specialist-contact-cleaner-tds-sheet.pdf
Track magic, does cause loss of traction and 'may' cause plastic deterioration. However it has it's uses, especially on point wing rails to ensure contact, using that little applicator a few times per year really helps.
Ahhhh, the old planned maintenance schedules and check lists - love it Charlie. Have not used inox on the track yet, but it works a treat on my cast metal plate surfaces in the workshop - router table, drill press etc. Keeps the rust away, even in humid Queensland. Great video Charlie, thanks for sharing.
You are a brave man for choosing this topic Charlie :) Respect... My tuppence: I would have mentioned the benefit of actually running trains from time to time. Lack of use is not good for track conductivity. Track Magic is fine... until you use too much of it, in which case you will definitely experience a few issues along the lines of the ones described in your video. Used sparingly, it does what is says on the tin and doesn't cause any issue. The pipette and tiny measuring cup should be a hint that you don't need to apply a lot :) I only use the product every 6 to 12 months as part of my deep clean routine, or on track I take out of storage to take changes to the layout. My track has been very reliable since I started using the product. Thanks for the videos, very informative and entertaining.
Brave or naive it’s hard to tell! There are many comments listed below, of plastic sleepers melting, particularly Peco track with the influence of track magic. That, on top of the issues with cold temperatures certainly puts me off that product. Regards Charlie
I use just a small bit of a old white ( light colour )Tshirt folded to a small size, just big enough to cover both sides of the tracks. Check the rubbish on it about every 3fts.If dirty I go over the area again to clean. If area is bad ,I use a cottonbud or piece of T shirt with methylated spirit,ten go over with a a dry one.I have use track cleaners & various cleaners & found so far nothing does the job as good as this. My layout is DCC 8 mtr (26.4 ft ) X 5mtr (16.5ft. ) I live in West Australia clean tracks regular , especially after lots of trains running. Curves need cleaning more than straight track. My mainline normally has 3 trains on them at one time. Trains with sound are good for letting you know you have dirty track areas . I have been cleaning my track for 5 yrs this way. For wheel cleaning on locos I have not found a good item that does all locos. I clean them with cotton bud methylated spirit
Excellent video Charlie very humorous and informative. I intend putting my model railway in the loft and had seen Matt Slade’s videos on Track Magic Eeek! Inox is a new one on me so thanks for that steer.
Very informative topic. I have booked marked this for the future reference as I am still at the planning and baseboard construction stage. I do like the tongue in cheek approach also (hanging rails on the washing line!).
keep up the good work in taking time to show fellow railway modellers your opinions on the hobby. We all have our own ideas , it good to see other people ideas as we all learn more, that why my layout is called Never Ending
hi charlie i used to use w d - 40 but it does work great on your windscrean wipers spray it on to a dry clean cloth wipe your window wipers blades you will have a nice clean windscrean with no marks at all makes driving better thank you for a great vlog
The manufacturer states that INOX is "lubricant made with a high grade white oil, rust inhibitors and other components to give lasting protection from corrosion and oxidation." Basically it's just mineral oil (white oil) which is the liquid analog of white petroleum jelly (brand name Vaseline). And they add some trace amounts of "rust inhibitors and other components" to make it sound like something more complex and revolutionary to justify a higher price. I tried a lot of expensive products on electrical connectors and electrical devices over the years, and I found that simple, cheap petroleum jelly works the best when you can apply it directly. But it's difficult to get it into enclosed components like potentiometers unless you liquify it with heat. For things like potentiometers, the CRC brand offers a mineral oil aerosol spray sold for electricians in the USA at places like Home Depot and Lowes for about $3 per can. So cheap compared to other fancy products. Basically that CRC spray would have the same result as INOX since they are both mineral oil. Any oil that forms a barrier over the surface of a metal to prevent the ingress of air will act as rust/oxidation/corrosion inhibitor. Nothing revolutionary here. What's a little surprising is that the train rails can be coated with an oily lubricant and not noticeably affect the traction of the locomotive wheels. Interesting.
Great video and great timing, my CMX wagon is due next week. So tomorrow down to Bunnings to buy some Innox. Next week a trip to the dump to get rid of the old track rubber!!!!
As people have said, very informative. My only comment is of course it's very easy to clean track with a cloth etc. when its on a bare board, not so when it's finished with telegraph poles, signals and other track-side furniture. so don't dismiss the track cleaning car that quickly.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes I agree, we tried one on the club test track, surprising how many track pins we recovered. Other than than, not much use. It was owned by one of the members, so we had to be careful about saying it was a waste of money.
Thanks for another great video Charlie. Well done. Can I just add my tuppence worth: firstly, I would treat Greggs advice carefully because the best electrical contact is between 2 “clean” surfaces. Most electrical engineers would agree. Secondly, Inox MX3 is clearly advertised as a lubricant! It also claims to “increase” electrical isolation. I don’t want to poop on anyone’s parade, just please tread carefully, and bear this in mind. Thanks again for your videos, keep them coming. Best wishes.
5:20 That is actually a Sanding block. It just has the sandpaper attached rather than the old fashioned one, where you used to wrap the paper around a block of cork or wood.
Charlie, I just wanted to thank you for your many witty and enlightening contributions during lock-down. I have learnt so much on various aspects of modelling, both of railways and other things. I think I even understand how railways actually work, thanks to you and the other guys! I am not altogether sure I have really got to grips with all aspects of DCC and the wiring and computational implications of it, but I now at least have a good basic working knowledge of the subject, and I have no doubt I will learn more by re-watching some of the videos on it. I think I possibly got a bit too addicted to RUclips, and have nearly given up on the TV, so maybe that's a good thing. Fortnightly will be more than enough in future, as life sort of returns to normal, or not… All the best.
Hi Charlie! Picked up a bottle of amazon and wow! It's only been two days, but the inox worked amazingly! Especially on my N scale locos and track! I missed fishplates video but I'm subscribed and going to look it up. You both deserve 5 stars for the suggestion and find! I know for me and my mini railway, so far it truly has been a game changer!
Charlie, your video’s certainly always bring a smile. Track drying on the clothe’s dryer was hilarious. I’ve still got old Triang track and it still cleans up ok. Thanks as usual
15:42 I don't think the notification still works. RUclips announced to end it back in August and really haven't received any for weeks now. I think it was a silly move but, as you say, "we are where we are". Your attention to detail is amazing, just to let you know.
Great video as usual Charlie. Track cleaning must be the most controversial subject in model railways. A bit of research showed me that Inox spouts the same qualities as CRC's, DW40 etc etc which have proved in my case to be nothing but trouble, so looks like I shan't be going there. For some time now I have used a DIY cleaning wagon with a balsa block lightly impregnated with a mix of water 75%, meths 25% and a dash of household detergent followed by a 'scraper' block of 'kid' or 'shami' pad to dry off. A dry clean track has proved for me to give reliable electrical and grade adhesion on my 1 in 32 grade double helix. Deposit buildup is virtually eliminated. Cutting back on loco lubrication can also go a ways to lessening track 'gunge' build up. We all tend to over lubricate our locos.
Rub your track lightly with a block of lead and forget.....except for an occasional pass with ipa to get rid of dust or oil. Lead also improves wheel adherence dramatically
For home made under body cleaners I use the rough side of hardboard, for general track cleaning I use CMX with "Goo Gone" The Goo Gone was recommended by Greg at Fishplate films some years ago and that works similarly to the inox, it leaves a film on the track which rolling stock can pick up and it cleans the wheels, I normally use Treble headed steam loco's to pull the CMX and it cleans the loco's wheels at the same time, rolling stock can be used with, and it cleans those. I have used it now for several years and won't be using anything else.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Maybe but as I am so happy with Goo gone I will be staying with that, Its never caused any problems and does a good job. Its nice to see that other products are coming along, but if I remember correctly I got 500 ml for about £12
Excellent informative video and the intro made me chuckle. I watched Greg’s video and I now use EC-90 fast drying contact cleaner which is used to clean electrical components,switching,contacts and leaves no residue it is brilliant stuff.you put a small amount on a clean rag and clean your track,I did my own layout plus the club layout.The difference it made to train 🚂 running was amazing.This product is available from Tool Station in a 500mls aerosol can price £8 approximately.👍😊
Thanks for another helpful video! As I've mentioned before, I have been seeking treatment (not for me as I already have the appropriate medication although my wife doesn't believe it) for my old series 3 and super 4 ancient track...much of which is rusty and the rest is mucky. I can confirm vinegar isn't great...having read about it I soaked the rusty track in a paint tray for what turned out to be 2 weeks as I forgot. Vinegar removed rust,and also to the little sleepers that held the rail to the sleeper track. I watched someones video about how the inside of the track becomes dirty due to the electrical contact from locomotive to track. My rusty track will do fine for a fiddle yard, saving me having to apply rust colour paint. This Inox stuff looks like a candidate for the ancient track....and certainly for the new Peco code 100 track I seem to have spent a fortune on to store in its boxes! Hanging the washed track - an idea I never thought of, and as we use the neighbours washing line, that would confuse the old bird next door no end!! Thanks again.
Very informative and really well presented. I have track between 30-50 years old that’s never been cleaned (Father to Son and now to my 6 year old Son). Yes, the trains (some with traction tyres) don’t run much at all. My conclusion from your video is IPA 99.9% is the safest and most effective method. Plus, IPA appears chemically non-toxic. Do you concur with my conclusion?
I think there are better products around. But they tend to leave a residue which causes slippage in my helix. Therefore, 99% IPA is probably the best choice. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie thankyou for yet another great informative video on a subject that can make or break a good working layout. Also thankyou for the time you put into producing these video's. best wishes Howard (South Devon Railway)
Inox MX3 is an oil. You can't paint over it until its removed. I also use some Noch #60157 track wipers. These can be washed out with detergent. The Dapol vacuum car is a must, but only for vacuum. As for a track rubber there is Roco 10002 from Europe which is very good, or from Japan a HOZAN K-142 at #320 grit. The Hozan is very fine. Both track rubbers are stable in that they don't fall apart like the PECO. Also they can be cleaned themselves with a stout nylon brush & running water. Which leads us back to how to prevent oxidization. Inox MX3... ... ... ... ...
Hi Charlie. Brilliant videos on all fronts. Tried the Inox on my n gauge track. Resulted in a newly purchased sound loco needing this product to be removed from wheels with meths. It does say non-conductive on the tin. Wish I had read it first. Also needed it to be removed from a lot of track before normal running restored. Hey ho lesson learnt the hard way. David.
Well done - a very amusing start. Must show it to my grandson! Thanks for a really helpful session on track cleaning. Your weekly Friday videos were something to look forward to in lockdown. Now, it's OK for me to get a good session each fortnight. Just keep it going please.
Hi Charlie, just started run locos on my track, for first time ,( new modeler) and was useing track rubber to clean bad connections After watching your video I will look at another way to do the job. Been watching you while building up my track layout and back ones. Got a lot of info of does and donts from you , keep up the good work.
Interesting and informative video Charlie, its certainly going to make me look at track cleaning again, my attitude has been it's a chore let's get this done as quickly as possible. As a lot of my locomotives and rolling stock is older items I spent a bit of time servicing and wheel cleansing, so it should make sense to put more effort into track cleaning. I think you may have made a old dog learn new tricks. I'm going to change my attitude it makes perfect sense, so I've given myself a talking to. I love the humour you bring to your channel I do find it easy to watch, and even when you cover things that don't apply to me I like to try and expand my knowledge. Thank you for the effort you put in. See you on the next one. Stay safe Eddy xx
Blimey Charlie, with you being a Woodland Scenics fan, I’m surprised you don’t have this kit. My kids bought it for me. Works great with Inox on the felt pads. Woodland Scenics TT4550 Tidy Track Rail Tracker Cleaning Kit 😁😁😁
Some useful info in this video Charlie, I have for my sins, purchased both the Dapol track cleaner, and yes it does tend to snag on some of my points, I also have some of the track magic and as my '00' layout is in my garden I don't think I will now use this chemical. All my loco's are either pre china Hornby, Lima and Airfix, all with traction tyres I will not be able to make use of the Inox- a pity, so it looks like the whisky substitute for my layout.
Hi Charlie. Very good tips you have given on track cleaning and some better than others. I always stay well clear of abrasive cleaners if you have always had track from new. I personally like to use 100% cotton shirt cut up into small rags and wipe over the track using Peco Eletrolube and found I never have traction problems or conductive errors afterwards. For hidden areas I use a lead bar with soldered Kadee couplers each end with a pair of 4 wheel bogies drilled into the lead bar with just enough clearance underneath to hold a cotton cloth with contact cleaner sprayed onto the cotton cloth then run over the hidden area with a few drops of Electrolube afterwards. Your newly sprayed track over your viaduct that you used a track rubber on. Can I suggest to your readers that they if they are going to spray their track that it is better to let the paint dry but not set so that you can safely remove the paint with white spirits from the top of the rail or water if using acrylics Enamel can be wiped off after it dries in about 4 hours and acrylic after 30 minutes, but do not let it dry over night before you attempt to remove the paint as it will have fully cured and will be so much harder to remove if you have a large amount of track painted.
Bravo Charlie! Now I just gotta find me some on this side of the pond. Every time I point a camera at a train to film it, it manages to find some dirt. I wouldn't say I guilty of track cleaning crimes more a kind of criminal mastermind!
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1 month after using Inox I’ve had no issues what so ever. Cleaned again today and cloth was filthy but no running issues at all.👍 hoping for same again this month 🤞
That’s great news Richie. Regards Charlie
When you get a notification on a friday, and the video starts with: welcome to chadwick model railway, im charlie, then you know its going to be one hell of a good weekend, allways a pleasire to watch your videos, cheers mate
You are far too kind Henrik. Regards Charlie
Loved the intro. Can just see track being pinned out on the washing lines across the land 😂. Your sense of humour sure hits the spot. Thanks Charlie
I must admit, it’s one of my favourite intros.
Regards, Charlie
The hanging of track on the clothesline had me bursting with laughter, didn't expect that one bit. Great video, Charlie!
As long as it made you smile during these dark times will, then I’ve won!
I think we all won, Charlie. Thanks for your videos, they are a highlight of the week.
Your videos are great, thank you. For the track drying tip, what kind of pegs do you recommend?
Washing machine or dishwasher...? Drying cycle? No point having the tools if you don't use them.
Gregg at Fishplate is a hoot - the two of you host the most entertaining channels I follow.
I’m so pleased that we keep you entertained. Stay safe, regards Charlie
You missed out ye olde (1947) cheapo method devised byJohn Allen on his Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
Rubbing the rough side of a piece of hardboard (Masonite) over the track. Can also be fitted to the bottom of a goods wagon.
Another one I've read about is the Relco high frequency track cleaner, (similar model also sold by Gaugemaster) which doesn't actually clean the track and is a no-no on DCC as the DCC power will fry the HF unit, decoder and command station.
IPA might not affect most paints, but could affect some. I used to use lighter fluid to clean my new second hand coaches. Worked fine on most. No damage, but on one particular brand it took the paint clean off.
The Dapol cleaning wagon is a rebadged Tomix design.
A great comment with some great info. Regards Charlie
Very informative as usual Charlie. many thanks. Interesting that you peg your track out on the line to dry it, how lucky you are. up here in the cold wet North West we usually have to put ours through the Mangle and finish it off on the Clothes Horse in front of the Coal Fire.
Hi Dave, that made me laugh out loud. Stay safe mate. Regards Chalie
😂😂😂😂
Poor Mrs Mangle :-)
Thanks Charlie. I have been warning modellers about track rubbers for years. The reply I get is "But my club has been using them for over ten years". I the ask, "How often do you clean your track ?" and their reply is, "Before every running session...!"
I took some converting too, regards Charlie
I actually was looking for your particular video to link, as i still haven't cleaned track since i began using the inox! It completely eliminated that chore. Completely! I thank you once again for your video, as it's changed my model railroading life!
I’m so pleased you found this product so useful. Regards, Charlie
Pegging the track to the washing line ... Charlie, you are truly special :)
As long as it made you smile Alec.
I think I've seen this done before Charlie?? I couldn't do the magnet trick though! Thanks for showing Innox and spreading the word on how to clean track properly! Just remember it is Innox MX3, they do make other versions not made for electrical circuits.
Kind regards,
Gregg.
I’m so pleased that you have found this video. Clearly your original video was the inspiration for it. Do you stay safe during these challenging times Gregg. I had one rather amusing comment earlier, someone mentioned that we should become a double act! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway You're very welcome Sir! I'm chuffed you found it and even more so that you not only understand the science behind it , but also got good results, which will only improve as you let the innox get around the layout.
Maybe we could be the next 2 Ronnies??, LOL
All good down here and all the best to you up there!
Kind regards,
Gregg .
Another great video. Not used a track rubber for years. I'm a 99.9% Isopropyl type of guy. Used it for years on SMP track without any issues.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it, regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie! Great Video, for the Aussies: Inox MX3 is available from Supercheap Auto, Repco and Bunnings.
Thanks for the info Auxie, stay safe mate.
Regards Charlie
Until a few weeks ago my layout had been largely sitting against a wall for the past 10 years, mostly for space and time pressures. As the go to track cleaning aid of my childhood, i'd just ordered a track rubber when i watched this. So after a bit of looking around i got a can of WD-40 Contact Cleaner to try and first impression is that it did a fine job. The before and after cloth test showed that it'd cleaned the rails quite a bit. In terms of running the Hornby B12 that was stuttering when running over two adjacent points no longer stutters.
Welcome back to our fascinating hobby Alistair. Regards Charlie
Love your videos Charlie. Very informative and helpful that’s why I became a Patreon. I know it’s a lot of work involved in putting a 30min video onto RUclips. Don’t spend all your time making us weekly videos you have a life to enjoy too mate 👍🏻
What a very thoughtful comment. Stay safe mate, regards Charlie
Auto transmission fluid is all you need. Very cheap, a few drops every 3 or 4 meters and only every 3 months. I have not cleaned my track for over a year and it averages about 1.5 hours per day.
Still enjoyed your video and excellent production. Thank you
Thanks for the info AF, much appriciated.
Very interesting Charlie. A couple of years ago, after finding Track Magic to be useless, I read various arguments for and against using car transmission fluid and curiosity got the better of me so tried it in very small quantities on a small section of track with one old locomotive for a few months. Since then, I have generalised its use across the entire railway, it pulls the dirt off all wheels and rails and leaves it in a few fluid residue lumps that are easily wiped up with a cloth, and even if these are not wiped off conductivity remains 100%. So the track still needs some attention but there is no longer need to lift locomotives for cleaning. The bad press it got was undoubtedly from people whose rolling stock was very dirty so found their layout suddenly plastered in residue, but had they perservered this wouldn't have happened again. Putting too much on may also affect plastic sleepers and traction tyres, but 2 years on, in the quantities I have used, I have had no such problems. Should I re-brand this stuff and patent it as a new track cleaner?
A great comment Stef, many thanks
hi, inox arrived. its as you said,amazing. thank you charly
I couldn’t agree more Andy.
Charlie, As always, a great informative and entertaining video. Incidentally, I use Inox and it sure is a game changer. I have used it on tracks that had a very poor or bad conductivity and where locos struggle... to smooth running locos after application. I had watched the Fishplate Films video and I thought that I'd give this fella a try. This is an Australian product. I purchased it online from Pendle Slot Racing, based in the UK. It cost me just under a tenner for it. So far in about 2 months, I have been really pleased with it. It is important to note that the cloth that you use is also equally important as you don't want strands to be caught up on your tracks. I use a jeweller's polishing cloth which has served me really well. This product is dirt cheap and available on Amazon in multi-packs.
Clearly a great recommendation, thanks very much, regards Charlie
Charlie, about the "thumbs up" button. It is a monster disguised as a Yorkie. If the thumbs up button simply added to the creators tally of "likes" it would be a Yorkie. However, it also wants to be a favorites button for the viewer and adds everything he "likes" to a favorites playlist. Therefore, the list gets packed with things I liked and want to refer to again some time, and others that I just liked but don't consider re-usable. So I NEVER click the like buttons simply to boost the creator's analytics, as much as I would like to at times. RUclips engineers have never been the best at what they try to do. When they get it right and give the viewer both a like button to score the creator and a favorites button to keep their favorites on a playlist, then I will gladly go back, watch all of your videos and like them. Some have already made my "favorites" playlist, which is what the like button really is.
What a great comment John. My pet hate is “subscribe”. Clearly it should be labelled as “Follow”.
Hi Charlie. Great informative video as always. I'm guilty of using a track rubber, but I don't use it that often. If you look at real railway tracks, you see that the ones in common use are shiny on the tops of the rails. The ones that are not used much tend to be dull and corroded. My answer to keeping most of my track clean is to keep running trains. And that's one of the best parts of the hobby. I only need to clean tracks inside of loco and goods shed about three times a year. As for the blades on points, I use electrical contact cleaner. It's always a pleasure to watch your video's. Stay safe and well. Cheers Chris.
Thanks Chris, what a heartwarming comment. Good luck with your track cleaning, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. I’m a newbie to the whole model train/railway business. My locos were stuttering and struggling. Watched your video, bought Inox and since cleaning the track the locos have worked better than new. Absolutely brilliant. Thanks for this great explainer video.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Greg
do you bought it in europe or outside ? where found it ?
Great video, as always - being the newbie, I am happy to get good advise whenever. I am sure with the constant questions and pop-up subjects, there may seem no end - but you are not obligated. You have a great library as it is, so weekly, biweekly, monthly - it should be a frequent as your availability and generous heart feel like. Thanks and stay safe.
What a heart warming comment Chris. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie - it has simplified what should have been a simplified task that has been over complicated with all the different products and advice. Unfortunately as I run steam and many have traction tyres I am unable to use the oxy but the grasphite block sounds a great investment. I also didn’t know about the IPA and percentage.
Sorry that the video wasn’t of any, but perhaps good background information. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes the background information was excellent Thanks Charlie
Very informative video chalie.... As a beginner it's great to find out early before any lasting damage is done.... Like the opening made the wive look twice 😂😂... Keep up the good work looking into becoming a patron 👍
Thanks Darren, your a star.
Bravo! Use those (track)rubbers to polish wood. Another frightful way to show results with those things, is rub perpendicular to the rails or across the rails and not in the same direction. That's my black and white proof immediately. I do use IPA or a piece of homosote/soundboard to clean and polish my rails.
I greatly appreciate your magnet method to show not only what's come off the rubber, but in the case of steel track, tiny shavings of the metal. Granted, brass or nickle silver are not attracted to magnets... but the scratches and tiny bits of rail will be present.
Thank you for this video. It speaks volumes of what I have followed the past 20-30 years.
John BC, Canada
A great comment John. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the channel. Regards Charlie
I watched the fishplate video a while ago and bought the spray version. It appears to have really improved my points which really covered with all sorts of glues and sprays.
I think the regular cleaning flex op might assist too 😉
Flex op, now there’s a term from the past!
Didn't realize the damage I was doing to my track. I found a rather eccentric Australian's video and wasn't convinced. Now that I see Inox is being used on Chadwick, I pitched the track rubber and ordered a can of Inox. I will also stop using the Bachmann track cleaning car with the spring loaded abrasive block attached to the bottom of the car. Which now that I think of it, is probably like strapping that block you mentioned to the bottom of a car.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful mate. Regards Charlie
Gaugemaster Gm-Hf1 ultrasonic track cleaner worth a mention to those on DC only layouts and are just LAZY but seriously they are not bad on on garden layouts.
Thanks Josef, something that I clearly missed.
I have one of them Dapol track cleaning wagons, heck it was expensive, and is now sitting on top of the wardrobe!
Only it’s Hoover is worth having!
Another very enjoyable and informative video, thank you Charlie. I've ordered the cleaning solution which is on backorder from the same place you got yours. Looking forward to trying it out when it arrives.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Simon, stay safe, regards Charlie
Another interesting and informative video. I've used vehicle tar spot remover just spray onto a paper towel and it's also good for cleaning wheels and doesn't seem to effect paintwork.
Be careful with traction tyres Brian. It may have an effect. Regards Charlie
@Chadwick Model Railway many thanks Charlie
As others have said , the goal isn’t to get the tracks clean. The goal is to keep them conductive. So removing insulators and applying things that enhance conductivity. Whether there is stuff that comes off in a rag wipe is a red herring everyone seems to fall for. If it’s traction tire residue then yes remove it , but If it’s black and conductive then leave it as it’s fine. ;)
In that spirit using isopropyl due to its molecular shape attracts dirt. Clean with WD40 or mineral spirits (others in this list imgur.com/a/DYbDGfm ) then graphite is the way to go. But for those with traction tires (many locos ) inox is a no go.
Very interesting comment, many thanks, regards Charlie
InterCity-1-3-4 I disagree with you on the isopropanol argument. Yes it’s an amphiphilic molecule, but since it evaporates rapidly leaving no residue I can’t see how it will attract dirt to the rails. This can’t be said about WD40 which is a film forming water dependent.
Been following you for a year . Not just for the info but for the humor.
That being said I don't know how I missed this one.
I've always thought that the " rubber" was taking off a coating on the track because track cleaning after became more frequent. I've since watched a you tube video about track cleaning and his idea seemed to work. Gleeming - rubbing metal against metal. A friend came up with an article from a chemical engineer. His theory is some chemicals etch metal others don't.
Ex: alcohol etches, crc26 -2 or my favorite Wahl oil ( that's a brand name for 80 wieght hair clipper oil ) , so light that if dripped on paper towel it evaporates over time without leaving a stain . Anyway, this is how I'm using their ideas and it seems to be working. I paint trains after I ballast then use track cleaner ( rubber ) to get every speck of paint and glue off. Then I gleem the track with a 5/16 washer glued to a large landscaping nail ( this is very labor intensive) . Then clean track with crc-26 or Wahl oil with a small soft cloth. After that only clean with cloth and crc26-2 or Wahl oil and wiped after that with a clean cloth.
Seems longer to tell than to do. First time hard work after that easy piesy.
Wow, what a great comment Bob. Very detailed, thanks.
Very much enjoyed the intro, thought it was very funny.
Interesting video, food for thought for the future, I'll have a look at this Inox.
Regarding video frequency, I fully appreciate you're full time job isn't RUclips (yet!) and I assume you're doing it for your own enjoyment. So I wouldn't run the risk of it becoming a chore if it takes up a lot of time, I would much rather watch 1 good video a fortnight than 2 mediacore ones if that makes sense. However it is your choice at the end of the day.
Keep up the good work! Matt
Thanks Matt, what a heartwarming comment. Regards Charlie
Gregg what a great guy he is, been watching him for years.
He is certainly an entertaining individual, that’s for sure and, he certainly knows his stuff. Regards Charlie
Entertaining and informative can you use inox to remove paint from the rail heads instead of using a track rubber after weathering the track.
Thanks Charlie great video
Could always use plastic straws slit up the side and put over the rails, then you won't get paint on them in the first place. :-)
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Mark, regards Charlie
Dear Sir, on 0:14 you got me thumbs up. Cheers from Brazil!
Returning, after the laugh. A very good friend of mine taught me to clean computer contacts by just rubing a piece of paper (your average A4) on the contacts. For me it makes sense, as i am agaisnt using paper - any kind - to clean lenses or anything susceptible to scratching. The abrasive nature of the paper will just do the same as whatever abrasive tool you could use.
Third edit. I was asked to provide the science and technology ministry with a video-class of our research. I am used to give these lectures, but they are allways with meself presenting things.
Well, i am learning a lot, on how to produce teaching videos, trying to emulate on how YOU do it. Thanks a LOT!
A compliment indeed EM.
Regards Charlie
So far iv watche 25 seconds and I'm crying with laughter 🤣🤣🤣
Now for the rest...
Get some tissues!
So that’s where I’ve been going wrong!!! 🤪
Very informative as always Charlie (with a bit of humour added in for good measure). Cheers Euan
By far your best start to a video yet,always very informative 👍 👍👍👍
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it NT.
When you hang OO gauge track out on the whirly and you use very hot water does it come out as N gauge and can you iron it to get a 3rd radius from a 4th radius??
Fantastic vid Charlie. You really put some thought and analysis into the vids really enjoyed watching! Thanks looking forward to seeing the next..
Thanks Will, you’re far too kind. Regards Charlie
Shrinkage is a seriously big problem for us model railway men, lol.
Tumble dry low, and for country-themed layouts I'd recommend fresh daisy dryer sheets.
Don't be using Vanish either in case it total disappears. Tho any layouts themed around Staines it works wonders on it.
Gosh i was chuckling for a while with you cleaning the track at the start
Here to please Thomas!
Not technically cleaning, but have you considered applying a tiny amount of ATF to your tracks? You'll never have to clean again...Edit: simply apply a bit of this automatic transmission fluid on a cotton bud, and rub it about half an inch on each rail. on small layouts one half inch is enough, on bigger layouts you can do it on 2 or 3 spots. just add it and never clean again. and remember: less is more. if it makes the tracks greasy, it's too much. won't eat up sleepers or rubber tires either.
You’re not the 1st to mention using that Stephan. Certainly worth considering.
Now to re clean my new tracks using INOX, also the steam engines that I normally have issues with, I'm going to go a do this method.
Good for you mate.
I like your videos a lot . Don't have a made up railway but I have gathered up loads of very good tips from the demonstrations
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it William
Great info vid...I use track magic for loco maintenance only.
I use a product called panel wipe prep used in the automotive repair industry with the Cmx track cleaner on automation...
As long as it works Jim, that’s all that matters, regards Charlie
Thank you! I used the US equivalent (CRC 2-26) and this fixed all my problems, thanks
Same again!
Living near Toronto , Ontario Canada I was not able to find NoOx ID “A” Special, nor CRC2.26 nor Inox MX3 at the retail stores in my area. I did find DeoxIT D5 at a Sayal store and it works well to remove much of the corrosion. Using it on my tracks bought it the 1970s and 1980s. I need to get some 2000 grit wet sandpaper to do touch ups on a few heavily stained areas. That should help my previous use of the rubber-metallic track eraser.
Hi Cathy, Track cleaning is always a thorn in our side. I'm currently shooting an update which you may find interesting. Regards Charlie
I always watch your videos even though I've not had a model railway since a kid, 45 years ago 😂
I’m so pleased that I’m keeping you entertained Mark. Regards Charlie
I've used Goo gone in the cmx tanker but due to your excellent fair and neutral test of different ways and liquids I'll order the inox
Thank you briilant channel
Thanks Robert but please remember that Inox is unsuitable for traction tyres.
Bought the Inox from Pendle Slot Cars absolutely brilliant stuff, was amazed of how much muck that came off the wheels were the pickups run on that were only cleaned with Isopropanol the week before, totally blown away. Good video Charlie not going to use anything else in future on everything, brushes, armatures, wheels etc.
Alan, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
You would do well in Hollywood. Your productions are a heck of a sight better than much of what comes out of California. Thanks for another entertaining program.
You’re far too kind Ernest.
Once a fortnight is good Charlie 👍. Life isn’t all model railways as much as we may like it to be.
Thanks Aston, much appreciated
Thanks for the pre-intro sketch and the washing of track, I'm still laughing now :)
I’m so pleased that cheered you up Andrew. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I have a similar background to you Charlie, ex L.Eng.Tech AC/AR RAF still love playing around with electronics and trains :)
I would add that if you use the sort of fake shami leather cloth you get from pound shops they hold the cleaner longer and also have a harmless abrasive action, I use a light application of graphite which keeps everything working for months.
If it works Paul, stick with it mate
Hi Charlie. Very contentious subject, Just watched an American chap on the same subject. Not withstanding the Aussie chap ! I, Like you, swore by IPA: BUT , 'Model trains made simple' ( ep 1 )( Sorry can't make a link) is emphatic it should be cleaned with pure acetone (in a CMX ) but as this is a polar solvent !? You then need to use a non polar solvent on your last run round, which makes even the dirt in the scratches conductive. I.E. Toluene from any decorators merchant.
He also referred to dragging a large washer down the track.( Mashing ) Lightbulb ! Engineering( lapping ) fine lapping paste from any motor factor on the large washer/ weight will lap the track fine enough as on the valve seats of a motor car head.
Food for thought
Chris
A very interesting comment Chris thank you. I think you’ve highlighted well, the nightmare that we all face. With my old grubby track, I bring it back to life with a track rubber, and then use the Inox thereafter. It seems to work for me. Regards Charlie
I am using DW40 Specialist Contact to clean my track. It is specifically designed for cleaning electrical components. My tracks stay clean longer than using when IPA. It is also safe with plastic and paint. Got mine from ScrewFix
I imagine that you mean WD 40 Cyril? Regards Charlie
I do not mean the classic DW-40 lubricant. That would be a very bad idea.
I mean the "WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner" made by WD-40, but this one is specialized in electric contact. It is not a lubricant, but a cleaner and enhance the conductivity once evaporated. This is used also on PCB contacts and connectors.
www.datocms-assets.com/10845/1595973565-wd-40-specialist-contact-cleaner-tds-sheet.pdf
Thanks for the clarification Cyril, regards Charlie
Track magic, does cause loss of traction and 'may' cause plastic deterioration. However it has it's uses, especially on point wing rails to ensure contact, using that little applicator a few times per year really helps.
Thanks mate, at last some praise for it.
Ahhhh, the old planned maintenance schedules and check lists - love it Charlie. Have not used inox on the track yet, but it works a treat on my cast metal plate surfaces in the workshop - router table, drill press etc. Keeps the rust away, even in humid Queensland. Great video Charlie, thanks for sharing.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Andrew, regards Charlie
You are a brave man for choosing this topic Charlie :) Respect... My tuppence: I would have mentioned the benefit of actually running trains from time to time. Lack of use is not good for track conductivity. Track Magic is fine... until you use too much of it, in which case you will definitely experience a few issues along the lines of the ones described in your video. Used sparingly, it does what is says on the tin and doesn't cause any issue. The pipette and tiny measuring cup should be a hint that you don't need to apply a lot :) I only use the product every 6 to 12 months as part of my deep clean routine, or on track I take out of storage to take changes to the layout. My track has been very reliable since I started using the product. Thanks for the videos, very informative and entertaining.
Brave or naive it’s hard to tell!
There are many comments listed below, of plastic sleepers melting, particularly Peco track with the influence of track magic. That, on top of the issues with cold temperatures certainly puts me off that product. Regards Charlie
I use just a small bit of a old white ( light colour )Tshirt folded to a small size, just big enough to cover both sides of the tracks. Check the rubbish on it about every 3fts.If dirty I go over the area again to clean. If area is bad ,I use a cottonbud or piece of T shirt with methylated spirit,ten go over with a a dry one.I have use track cleaners & various cleaners & found so far nothing does the job as good as this. My layout is DCC 8 mtr (26.4 ft ) X 5mtr (16.5ft. ) I live in West Australia clean tracks regular , especially after lots of trains running. Curves need cleaning more than straight track. My mainline normally has 3 trains on them at one time. Trains with sound are good for letting you know you have dirty track areas . I have been cleaning my track for 5 yrs this way. For wheel cleaning on locos I have not found a good item that does all locos. I clean them with cotton bud methylated spirit
It sounds like a good plan to me Peter. And if it works, don’t fix it
Excellent video Charlie very humorous and informative. I intend putting my model railway in the loft and had seen Matt Slade’s videos on Track Magic Eeek! Inox is a new one on me so thanks for that steer.
You’re more than welcome Kevin, regards Charlie
Very informative topic. I have booked marked this for the future reference as I am still at the planning and baseboard construction stage. I do like the tongue in cheek approach also (hanging rails on the washing line!).
I’m so pleased it made you smile as well as keeping your interest Phil. Regards Charlie
keep up the good work in taking time to show fellow railway modellers your opinions on the hobby. We all have our own ideas , it good to see other people ideas as we all learn more, that why my layout is called Never Ending
A great comment and a great name too, regards Charlie
Your opening scene is what really makes this video, great video as always :)
Thanks Alx
Thank you! My trains were stopping all the time in particular at slow speed. I used the US
equivalent (CRC 2-26) and now all works perfectly!
Glad to hear it mate.
hi charlie i used to use w d - 40 but it does work great on your windscrean wipers spray it on to a dry clean cloth wipe your window wipers blades you will have a nice clean windscrean with no marks at all makes driving better thank you for a great vlog
I think that I’ll keep mine to lubricating the hedge trimmer! Regards Charlie
Inox MX3 ....It really is magic! Been using it now for a year and have only had to reapply twice in 12 months.. WOW.. I tell you it's fantastic!
What a fantastically reassuring, Peter. Regards Charlie
Where can you get it in the UK?
The manufacturer states that INOX is "lubricant made with a high grade white oil, rust inhibitors and other components to give lasting protection from corrosion and oxidation." Basically it's just mineral oil (white oil) which is the liquid analog of white petroleum jelly (brand name Vaseline). And they add some trace amounts of "rust inhibitors and other components" to make it sound like something more complex and revolutionary to justify a higher price. I tried a lot of expensive products on electrical connectors and electrical devices over the years, and I found that simple, cheap petroleum jelly works the best when you can apply it directly. But it's difficult to get it into enclosed components like potentiometers unless you liquify it with heat. For things like potentiometers, the CRC brand offers a mineral oil aerosol spray sold for electricians in the USA at places like Home Depot and Lowes for about $3 per can. So cheap compared to other fancy products. Basically that CRC spray would have the same result as INOX since they are both mineral oil. Any oil that forms a barrier over the surface of a metal to prevent the ingress of air will act as rust/oxidation/corrosion inhibitor. Nothing revolutionary here. What's a little surprising is that the train rails can be coated with an oily lubricant and not noticeably affect the traction of the locomotive wheels. Interesting.
You have made some interesting points AK. However, it does work very well. Regards, Charlie
Great video and great timing, my CMX wagon is due next week. So tomorrow down to Bunnings to buy some Innox. Next week a trip to the dump to get rid of the old track rubber!!!!
I’m sure that will be a good move Peter
As people have said, very informative. My only comment is of course it's very easy to clean track with a cloth etc. when its on a bare board, not so when it's finished with telegraph poles, signals and other track-side furniture. so don't dismiss the track cleaning car that quickly.
A fair point Andy, but my Dapol one was dreadful.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes I agree, we tried one on the club test track, surprising how many track pins we recovered. Other than than, not much use. It was owned by one of the members, so we had to be careful about saying it was a waste of money.
Thanks for another great video Charlie. Well done. Can I just add my tuppence worth: firstly, I would treat Greggs advice carefully because the best electrical contact is between 2 “clean” surfaces. Most electrical engineers would agree. Secondly, Inox MX3 is clearly advertised as a lubricant! It also claims to “increase” electrical isolation. I don’t want to poop on anyone’s parade, just please tread carefully, and bear this in mind. Thanks again for your videos, keep them coming. Best wishes.
Thanks Alan for your honesty. It’s a case of tread carefully and see how things go. Regards Charlie
5:20 That is actually a Sanding block. It just has the sandpaper attached rather than the old fashioned one, where you used to wrap the paper around a block of cork or wood.
Good spot but it’s more like fine Emery Cloth.
First track cleaning vid I've seen that made sense!! Nicely done. Cheers!
Thanks TM? I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Another great video Charlie. Nice to hear you mention Fishpkate films. 🇦🇺🚂🏍
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Richard
Charlie, I just wanted to thank you for your many witty and enlightening contributions during lock-down. I have learnt so much on various aspects of modelling, both of railways and other things. I think I even understand how railways actually work, thanks to you and the other guys! I am not altogether sure I have really got to grips with all aspects of DCC and the wiring and computational implications of it, but I now at least have a good basic working knowledge of the subject, and I have no doubt I will learn more by re-watching some of the videos on it.
I think I possibly got a bit too addicted to RUclips, and have nearly given up on the TV, so maybe that's a good thing. Fortnightly will be more than enough in future, as life sort of returns to normal, or not…
All the best.
Thanks Chazzy B, I’m so pleased that you enjoy my channel. But perhaps you do need to get out more!
Well I have been out most of the day today, but thanks, I think!
Hi Charlie! Picked up a bottle of amazon and wow! It's only been two days, but the inox worked amazingly! Especially on my N scale locos and track! I missed fishplates video but I'm subscribed and going to look it up. You both deserve 5 stars for the suggestion and find! I know for me and my mini railway, so far it truly has been a game changer!
D Gas I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Yes I saw Inox being used by Station Road channel here in NZ,so I bought some and I think it’s great.keep up the good work,cheers David
Thanks for your thoughts on this David much appreciated, regards Charlie
Charlie, your video’s certainly always bring a smile. Track drying on the clothe’s dryer was hilarious. I’ve still got old Triang track and it still cleans up ok. Thanks as usual
I’m so pleased that you found it humorous and perhaps brought a smile to your face.
15:42 I don't think the notification still works. RUclips announced to end it back in August and really haven't received any for weeks now. I think it was a silly move but, as you say, "we are where we are".
Your attention to detail is amazing, just to let you know.
Thanks for the info GS, and I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel regards Charlie
Great video as usual Charlie. Track cleaning must be the most controversial subject in model railways. A bit of research showed me that Inox spouts the same qualities as CRC's, DW40 etc etc which have proved in my case to be
nothing but trouble, so looks like I shan't be going there. For some time now I have used a DIY cleaning wagon with a balsa block lightly impregnated with a mix of water 75%, meths 25% and a dash of household detergent followed by a 'scraper' block of 'kid' or 'shami' pad to dry off. A dry clean track has proved for me to give reliable electrical and grade adhesion on my 1 in 32 grade double helix. Deposit buildup is virtually eliminated. Cutting back on loco lubrication can also go a ways to lessening track 'gunge' build up. We all tend to over lubricate our locos.
A very interesting comment Indigo. I really do appreciate your input. Regards Charlie
Rub your track lightly with a block of lead and forget.....except for an occasional pass with ipa to get rid of dust or oil. Lead also improves wheel adherence dramatically
An interesting point Dominic thank you. Have a great 2021
For home made under body cleaners I use the rough side of hardboard, for general track cleaning I use CMX with "Goo Gone" The Goo Gone was recommended by Greg at Fishplate films some years ago and that works similarly to the inox, it leaves a film on the track which rolling stock can pick up and it cleans the wheels, I normally use Treble headed steam loco's to pull the CMX and it cleans the loco's wheels at the same time, rolling stock can be used with, and it cleans those. I have used it now for several years and won't be using anything else.
A very interesting comment Sam, thanks. Obviously Greg thought that the Inox was an improvement on GoGone. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Maybe but as I am so happy with Goo gone I will be staying with that, Its never caused any problems and does a good job. Its nice to see that other products are coming along, but if I remember correctly I got 500 ml for about £12
Excellent informative video and the intro made me chuckle. I watched Greg’s video and I now use EC-90 fast drying contact cleaner which is used to clean electrical components,switching,contacts and leaves no residue it is brilliant stuff.you put a small amount on a clean rag and clean your track,I did my own layout plus the club layout.The difference it made to train 🚂 running was amazing.This product is available from Tool Station in a 500mls aerosol can price £8 approximately.👍😊
A great tip Tony, thanks regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, I've been racking my brains with track cleaning looking for the most efficient method. Looks like its Inox for me!
It’s truly is a game changer Joseph.
Thanks for another helpful video! As I've mentioned before, I have been seeking treatment (not for me as I already have the appropriate medication although my wife doesn't believe it) for my old series 3 and super 4 ancient track...much of which is rusty and the rest is mucky. I can confirm vinegar isn't great...having read about it I soaked the rusty track in a paint tray for what turned out to be 2 weeks as I forgot. Vinegar removed rust,and also to the little sleepers that held the rail to the sleeper track. I watched someones video about how the inside of the track becomes dirty due to the electrical contact from locomotive to track. My rusty track will do fine for a fiddle yard, saving me having to apply rust colour paint. This Inox stuff looks like a candidate for the ancient track....and certainly for the new Peco code 100 track I seem to have spent a fortune on to store in its boxes!
Hanging the washed track - an idea I never thought of, and as we use the neighbours washing line, that would confuse the old bird next door no end!! Thanks again.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Ian and good luck with yours.
Very informative and really well presented. I have track between 30-50 years old that’s never been cleaned (Father to Son and now to my 6 year old Son). Yes, the trains (some with traction tyres) don’t run much at all. My conclusion from your video is IPA 99.9% is the safest and most effective method. Plus, IPA appears chemically non-toxic. Do you concur with my conclusion?
I think there are better products around. But they tend to leave a residue which causes slippage in my helix. Therefore, 99% IPA is probably the best choice. Regards Charlie
I am going to get rid of my track rubbers now. Great article.
A good move Nigel, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting
Hi Charlie thankyou for yet another great informative video on a subject that can make or break a good working layout. Also thankyou for the time you put into producing these video's. best wishes Howard (South Devon Railway)
Thanks Howard, I’m so pleased that you find the channel useful. Regards Charlie
Inox MX3 is an oil. You can't paint over it until its removed. I also use some Noch #60157 track wipers. These can be washed out with detergent. The Dapol vacuum car is a must, but only for vacuum. As for a track rubber there is Roco 10002 from Europe which is very good, or from Japan a HOZAN K-142 at #320 grit. The Hozan is very fine. Both track rubbers are stable in that they don't fall apart like the PECO. Also they can be cleaned themselves with a stout nylon brush & running water. Which leads us back to how to prevent oxidization. Inox MX3... ... ... ... ...
A great comment Philip, thank you, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie.
Brilliant videos on all fronts.
Tried the Inox on my n gauge track. Resulted in a newly purchased sound loco needing this product to be removed from wheels with meths.
It does say non-conductive on the tin. Wish I had read it first.
Also needed it to be removed from a lot of track before normal running restored.
Hey ho lesson learnt the hard way.
David.
That’s interesting David, you are the 1st to mention poor pick ups. Did you put loads on or just a thin film? Regards Charlie
Well done - a very amusing start. Must show it to my grandson! Thanks for a really helpful session on track cleaning. Your weekly Friday videos were something to look forward to in lockdown. Now, it's OK for me to get a good session each fortnight. Just keep it going please.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video is entertaining. Stay safe, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, just started run locos on my track, for first time ,( new modeler) and was useing track rubber to clean bad connections
After watching your video I will look at another way to do the job.
Been watching you while building up my track layout and back ones.
Got a lot of info of does and donts from you , keep up the good work.
I’m so pleased you found the channel interesting Philip
Interesting and informative video Charlie, its certainly going to make me look at track cleaning again, my attitude has been it's a chore let's get this done as quickly as possible. As a lot of my locomotives and rolling stock is older items I spent a bit of time servicing and wheel cleansing, so it should make sense to put more effort into track cleaning. I think you may have made a old dog learn new tricks. I'm going to change my attitude it makes perfect sense, so I've given myself a talking to. I love the humour you bring to your channel I do find it easy to watch, and even when you cover things that don't apply to me I like to try and expand my knowledge. Thank you for the effort you put in. See you on the next one. Stay safe Eddy xx
Thanks Eddy, What a heartwarming comment, regards Charlie
The beginning of this video had me HOWLING!
I just watched it myself and I still chuckle.
Blimey Charlie, with you being a Woodland Scenics fan, I’m surprised you don’t have this kit. My kids bought it for me. Works great with Inox on the felt pads. Woodland Scenics TT4550 Tidy Track Rail Tracker Cleaning Kit 😁😁😁
Thanks Redbank, I will certainly check it out, regards Charlie
Actually crying with laughter when I saw tracks hanging out to dry lol 🤣🤣🤣
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dom
Some useful info in this video Charlie, I have for my sins, purchased both the Dapol track cleaner, and yes it does tend to snag on some of my points, I also have some of the track magic and as my '00' layout is in my garden I don't think I will now use this chemical.
All my loco's are either pre china Hornby, Lima and Airfix, all with traction tyres I will not be able to make use of the Inox- a pity, so it looks like the whisky substitute for my layout.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Peter, however as you say track cleaning is a dreadful evolution. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie.
Very good tips you have given on track cleaning and some better than others. I always stay well clear of abrasive cleaners if you have always had track from new. I personally like to use 100% cotton shirt cut up into small rags and wipe over the track using Peco Eletrolube and found I never have traction problems or conductive errors afterwards.
For hidden areas I use a lead bar with soldered Kadee couplers each end with a pair of 4 wheel bogies drilled into the lead bar with just enough clearance underneath to hold a cotton cloth with contact cleaner sprayed onto the cotton cloth then run over the hidden area with a few drops of Electrolube afterwards.
Your newly sprayed track over your viaduct that you used a track rubber on. Can I suggest to your readers that they if they are going to spray their track that it is better to let the paint dry but not set so that you can safely remove the paint with white spirits from the top of the rail or water if using acrylics
Enamel can be wiped off after it dries in about 4 hours and acrylic after 30 minutes, but do not let it dry over night before you attempt to remove the paint as it will have fully cured and will be so much harder to remove if you have a large amount of track painted.
Some very useful info, many thanks, regards Charlie
Bravo Charlie! Now I just gotta find me some on this side of the pond. Every time I point a camera at a train to film it, it manages to find some dirt. I wouldn't say I guilty of track cleaning crimes more a kind of criminal mastermind!
I would have thought that some form of equivalent would be available.
Regards Charlie