Nice video Sam and some good points. A few other things to consider: 1) Most chemical substances people use for track cleaning are skin irritants and produce toxic vapours so should be used with gloves in a well ventilated place, plus eye protection just in case of splashes or if you wipe your eyes without thinking. 2) Electrical contact lubricants like Inox or WD40 specialist electrical contact cleaner DON'T leave a sticky residue, though some other chemical cleaners do. 3) One of the major arguments against abrasive cleaning like track rubbers is it produces tiny scratches to your rails which increases surface area and therefore oxidisation. Theoretically this means your rails will get dirty more quickly over time. However how much difference this makes in reality is unclear. I guess the best way to find out is to get some brand new track and set up two lines then clean one with a track rubber and one with an electric contact cleaner, use them the same amount and then see how they compare after a decent length of time. 4) Have you ever tried Gaugemasters high frequency electronic track cleaner? I've seen a few forum posts which swear by it, although I don't know anyone personally who's tried it. My understanding is it should probably only be used on DC layouts as putting an electrical surge through DDC chips isn't a good idea. Overall there seem to be a lot of theories and anecdotal stories about track cleaning, but little hard evidence. And the track manufacturers like Hornby and Peco don't seem to have much to say. Perhaps influencers like yourself could encourage them to do some experiments and publish the results? It would be good PR for them and having some facts to back up a cleaning product would surely be an excellent marketing tactic for them.
Hello Sam. Another fascinating video. My father always used a Peco track cleaning rubber since 1974. Never had any problems. It always makes the way permanent. Another classic Sam SUPERB thank you 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🐖🚄🚅
Something I've heard a couple times is that the best way to keep rails clean is just to run trains. As long as your wheels are clean (and made of metal) than the friction tends to keep things clean mostly anyways. Soon as a layout sits for a long time, the rails collect grit and crud and dust and it needs to be cleaned again
This is a video I’d hoped for, for a long time. I’ve got the Atlas incarnation of the track vacuum, and didn’t have much success with it initially. After a full clean out and re-wire, it works really well. It also has DCC which makes pushing it around slowly whilst it’s running a full speed a breeze. I personally use the methylated spirits on paper towel trick on my track, and methylated spirits on a cotton bud to clean the wheels. That’s always worked for me, but please don’t use any sort of contact cleaner on your track! I used “CRC Switch Cleaner Lubricant” on my track once, and whilst it initially seemed to work really well, after a little bit, it built up into this black tar like substance on my track, and on my locomotive and carriage wheels (sometimes the resultant grime built up so thick on my carriage bogies, they wouldn’t turn anymore, and I had to scrape them clean with a screwdriver). I honestly think I’m still trying to get some of it off my rolling stock almost 15 years and 3 layouts later! Thanks again for your insight on this topic.
Hi Sam, great video! I discovered a neat trick just the last time I cleaned the track. To apply a cleaner (e.g. isopropyl alcohol), I had previously applied it to a cloth. But every time I got to the points, I had to be very careful to stop it snagging on the pointy bits. I had the bright idea to hold a piece of cork underlay on the bottom of a plastic ruler, squirt solvent on the end, and press down against the track and run along (flat side of the ruler down). The cork glides nicely over points and untidy rail joints without a hiccup.
Thanks so much for sharing - yeah the cloth isn't ideal actually - I did see a tool in Mike's video that looked way better, I'm thinking of investing in one! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam I just wanted to let you know I followed your advice, on our railway club layout everyone has a station they control so as to teach other club members. I decided to clean up my station trackage first using the Peco rubber and it cleaned up a treat, everything runs well and better now so I thought I would say cheers.
Good video. I have been cleaning my track using bleach and a 14 inch industrial angle grinder and I have to regularly replace my entire model railway because of the unspeakable carnage. Thanks for the advice.
With runing trains on carpet the amount of lint and dust picked up all depends on how cleen the carpet is and what type of carpet. Your carpet is flat hard carpet so its all good. But soft fluffy carped is definitely a no no many because it will pickup and hold alot of dust. Love the vid sam Congratulations on 100k.
Well said Sam! The quality of track rubber matters! I have used some horrible ones that shed way too much dust even in few strokes but this Peco one seems really reliable!
Very much so - I was put off by the price of Peco ones, and looked at Hornby and Gaugemaster ones.... both in the bin within the week! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
It’s wonderful to see what needs doing what needs to be done on the maintenance of your track. At the moment, I don’t have my own layout. But when I finally get into a better flat I will be building my Ongar Station layout and running permanent Steam Gala.
@@SamsTrains Thank you, Sam!! I’m going to get three pieces of equipment when I finally move home, a 3D printer, a new locomotive or two and a load of track with which to build my first proper layout.
This is incredibly useful, thanks. I do have a question about the Dapol vacuum cleaner: presumably the direction the fan rotates switches with voltage polarity, i.e. with the direction of travel? If so, does it blow the dust out instead of sucking it in if you go the wrong way?? I'm assuming they must have thought of that but I can't find any info that addresses this point. Thanks!
Hi Sam. Very interesting subject. Peco track rubbers are great, especially if like me you sometimes don’t run trains for long periods and the track starts to tarnish. However another trick I’ve learned is to use the rough side of a small piece of hardboard with a little block glued to the smooth side to hold it. Once the track has had a clean with the track rubber I go over it again with the hardboard. After that I won’t use the rubber again unless i leave it and it starts to tarnish. I just use the hardboard.
Useful video Sam - just curious - have you tried the newer DCC Concepts track rubber because I’ve read (of course can we believe all that we read - NO) that it’s a lot better than the Peco track rubber. I’ve bought one but not needed to use it yet but it seems a more dense composition that the Peco one. Maybe check it out and let us all know what you think. My YT signature - yes I’m a mine addict with an On30 US theme layout “Black Dog Mine”… 🧨⛏🧨⛏🇬🇧🚂
Hi Sam! My name is Leo, and I wanted to start by saying thank you for having the videos like these. When I started watching your videos over a year ago, hey gave me the confidence to be able to get out there and start my own remodel railway. On to the real reason I am commenting, I use both IPA and CFC free contact cleaner in my day to day at work, and I’ve noticed that when cleaning my tools, (they have a chromed finish on them) that contact cleaner does seem to leave a bit of a film on them. So I would love to see what you find out by using it on your model railway, and why effect, if any that the contact cleaner has. Thank you again for all the wonderful videos, and have a wonderful day!
It's my pleasure Leo, thanks so much for the kind comments! I'll definitely investigate the contact cleaner, thanks for the tip! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Oh Sam what a rabbit hole this is! May I add my half penny? I too have a large loft layout and it is cleaned once a year all over, with a PECO track rubber. The next bit may be worth your experimentation? I rub sections of the layout with a 2B graphite crayon. A spark quench, contact improver, and also a dry lubricant. The latter being a reason for not over doing the graphite. If excess has been applied the track rubber will remove it! However, this does mean that the majority of the layout is cleaned once a year, loco wheels the same. The bit of the layout the cat sleeps on needs more regular cleaning! My show layouts and stock, many have not been cleaned for a few years, in some cases. I assume the need , or lack of cleaning, results from the layout not sitting flat in dust collecting mode all the time... Also the show layouts tend to spend much time boxed out of use and then periods of intense operation over a one or two day period. Graphite crayons may be bought cheaply from a decent graphic arts supply shop.... Cheers for an interesting film
That would be real cool, especially with a ind of grouping into which fit well together. I bought 2 lots of used N scale track some time ago, having no idea what I was doing. It was only luck that the Roco and the Minitrix pieces were actually identical, and fit perfectly.
Absolutely spot on Sam. I use a Peco rubber too and I've never had any problems with it. I also use my Dapol track cleaner in vacuum mode only. (I found that some of the rotating pads caught point blades.) I've found IPA and a cotton bud is ideal for cleaning between point blades and the adjacent rails.
I just fitted a Gaugemaster GMC-HF2 to my (pre-cleaned) tracks yesterday, so obviously it's on trial, but I did notice the number of pulses (as it burnt off dirt) from the leds reduced substantially after only half an hour. A good part of the layout is covered and very tricky to clean manually, so hopefully it will now stay clean! PS bought new from Hattons last year, it was forty-something pounds, less than some of the Fleabay used ones!
I have modelled railways for over 50 years and the Peco track rubber is the best method. I have a rubber that's 11 years old, one doesn't need to rub hard to get tarnish off. A very informative video, there again, that's why I watch you :)
Sam - outstanding video ...and a great topic. Good to see you are honest. I wouldn't spend a mint on a "final" layout EITHER, iF I knew it was not a place I was going to stay at for any massive length of time. Fishplates - We call 'em "joiners" here in the US....point well taken though - make sure those things are in perfect shape and clean before you use them. Electrical contact is EVERYTHING to achieve a clean, smooth, running railroad..... As you've shown, I would also suggest just vacuuming the track after you clean it....with whatever you decide to use. In fact, vacuum the track every 3 weeks or so regardless. I've also had basic success with a VERY FINE grit sandpaper lightly run over the rails....followed by a great wiping with isopropyl alcohol......(always use 99% pure folks), finally followed by a final vacuuming. I tried that "Rail Zip" crap....and it was BAD - DON'T do it as it LEFT a residue that just caused me trouble. After cleaning your rails....it's also good to clean your cars and loco wheels at the same time so the dirt from the locos and cars don't get tracked back ONTO your clean rails! Is it a pain?....yeah...it is...but a good running model railway is WELL worth it! Keep those car wheels clean! For slot car fans (as I am one also), these same basic principles described above apply.
Thanks so much! Yeah as soon as I started checking the fishplates/joiners, you wouldn't believe how many problems just disappeared! Thanks for sharing your methods too, Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, great video. I use the gaugemaster track cleaner - it is a tank in HO made out of brass so extremely heavy with a piece of corduroy cloth that rubs on the tracks. I fill the tank with 'Goo Gone' which then drips onto the cloth, it is a brilliant cleaner. In fact the tank is so heavy I have to use a pair of 37's top and tailing it! Also it has the advantage of cleaning the loco wheels as well! My layout is 20" x 11" and I never worry about fish plates or voltage drop as it is DCC and almost every rail is individually connected to the bus line!
Pulled some old tarnished brass Fleischmann rails out to make a temporary test track & used Brasso & a soft cloth to shine them up to work beautifully.
I use a very fine emery block when my track gets really bad, but most of the time I used either a Hornby track cleaning coach and I have 2 gauge master track "mops" having under a inspection/directors salon. The latter normally gets given a run on each running session. Its only a case of bringing the track head back to bright. As for dust and hair, I think it makes a big difference if you have pets, I've seen train set locos full of hair, not fluff. Have you ever had experience of the electronic track cleaners that form part of the layouts circuitry? I just find I am ham fisted when it comes to passing through the station, and past the signals.
@@Poliss95 is certainly fine, its what I used for metal polishing in my engineering workshop, and rubbing back on paint on our traction engines. I never use anything courser than 600 grit for that. I have used emery bocks and cloth for years, never had a issue. Why is the reason you wouldn't use it? if its because of wearing of the track, you would have to clean it 1000's of times before you had any serious degradation of track. Its unlikely the minute amount aluminum oxide dust will harm anything. Biggest headache to date in track maintenance ......cob webs! Hadn't been in train said for several weeks and they were several on the scenic section.. but none in the fiddle yard area, so I guess they like the Southern side of the shed better haha.
@@James_Rivett Thanks a lot for sharing - never tried emery blocks as I was worried about them scratching the surface... maybe the finer stuff is fine then?? Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam - for what it's worth I've used IPA on a cotton bud on narrow gauge tracks and it works superbly, evaporating quickly and leaving no residue (quick tip - you can also use it for cleaning video recorder and audio cassette heads if you're old skool). I would urge caution about using WD40 on trackwork - not because it won't work but because WD40 can have catastrophic effects on loco chassis with lots of plastic in there (Obviously Hornyby Dublo and the like will not have this problem). A friend tried WD40 to clean a Berlinerbahn TT loco chassis - which promptly fell apart! Forewarned is forearmed
Thanks for sharing David, yes I've never had a problem either! Yeah I wouldn't put WD40 anywhere near my models... the contact cleaner remains to be seen though! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The only model railways use for WD-40 is to oil the hinges of your front gate so the missus doesn't hear the postie delivering your extremely expensive new loco. :-)
My layout is in a detached garage that gets cold when I'm not in there with a heater on and I usually don't spend time in there during the winter months. It means that there can be a number of weeks with no use and the rails get quite dirty. I have found that the Hornby club red 0-4-0 Bagnal diesel shunter runs quite happily on the dirty track, it's often the only loco that will run on my track when dirty. I will often use it with the Hornby track cleaning carriage running around my 3 continuous circuits for about 30 minutes at a time which gets most of the grime off however I get best results going around with the Pico track rubber and use it on the branches. I also use IPA with good results and a glass fiber pen for the points though it takes time as I have 40 set of points on my layout! My solution for fish plates is Conductive Wire Glue, a little drop into the fish plate on assembly and all surfaces are electrically connected, if it's a small drop then a good waggle and pull will break the joint without damage if the layout needs changing.
Polar solvent or not, I would have thought that the IPA will have evaporated away shortly after use. Thereby, leaving zero residue. I don’t think the polarity of the solvent would therefore be an issue.
Thanks for responding to the anti track rubber video. My Fleischmann rubber is very efficient. Here's a thought for you - when I was young in New Zealand my family had a large Marklin layout and we NEVER needed to clean the track! I think it ran faultlessly for around 30 years. My father became hooked on Marklin when they were visiting Germany in 1952 and spent the budget on trains!
I’ve used the Dapol track cleaning car when I worked at Gulliver’s Gate. Like you I only used it as a vacuum cleaner, and boy, the amount of dust picked up each week was amazing. I had four of them there. Since the layouts were DCC what I did was install a rectifier in each car so they would operate at full speed while the locomotive (DCC fitted) would pull them at a more reasonable speed.
Yes they are really quite good vacuums aren't they? Never known anything better! Gulliver's gate sounds amazing- you lucky bugger. Great idea on the rectifier - I never thought of that, you'd get some great voltage out of that on DCC! ;D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Gulliver's Gate was inspired by Miniatur Wunderland. Sadly Gulliver's Gate closed in January 2020. It was located in Times Square, Manhattan, NYC, New York.
They won't clean Covid off the track, you will need some anti-viran solution for that which may damage the track. I am guessing you are asking encase the track is being touched by people and not as a joke.
Hi Sam. I use a Dapol track cleaner (inter city blue livery) on a DC layout. I found I had to put a bridge rectifier in the suppy to the motor as the vacuum only worked in one diection. In the other direction it blew the balast etc out from the sides of the wagon. Perhaps mine was an earlier model. It now works fine in either diection.
Everard Junction has done a video with the American CMX track cleaner using 'Goo Gone' fluid. It's basically a tank wagon filled with cleaning fluid with a piece of cloth attached beneath the chassis. You control the flow rate of the fluid via a screw top. By far one of the best examples out there. Shame there isn't one on the British market but you could convert an old tank wagon in to one, that's what I'm planning to do in future. Maybe you could look in to it and do a video?? Would make an awesome project. I have a Hornby track rubber but also use Deluxe Materials 'Track Magic' solution, highly recommended Sam. ;)
My track cleaning set up includes a a Peco track rubber for heavy cleaning and for general cleaning I use a a train pushing a Hornby track cleaning wagon with slightly more weight added and a HO scale tanker wagon track cleaning wagon with a foam pad underneath where you can put a track cleaning fluid liquid onto. I would then use my train tech track tester to check if I am getting conductivity around the layout. The track cleaning fluid I use is track magic by Deluxe materials. Track magic is a great product as I had to clean up a Scalextric track for my brother and it was very dirty and starting to show signs of corrosion. I used the Peco track rubber to get rid of the worst of the dirt then applied the track magic and noticed one of its claims comes true as it prevents corrosion, the rust spots went from the rusty brown to a grey silver colour.
I just use a Peco track rubber. I've had the same one for about 10 years. The track gets cleaned fairly regularly, maybe once every two months (or as I see fit). Never had any issues.
I saw in an American video on youtube that the guy had a Tidy Track which is a cleaning head attached to a metal handle via a moveable joint. It followed the rails and he just pushed it around. Quick and easy.
Great vid. I use a Bachmann track cleaner. It is a motorized box car with two scrubbers that scrub each rail as you add current into the track it powers The scrubbers are use a diesel locomotive to pull the cleaner and just after a couple of laps it looks new again. The scrubbers have sticky pads that you replace and that is all there is to it
Hi Sam, lots of handy hints and “bravo” with regards the track rubber myth busting! 👏 I am a bit naughty as I use 3000 glass paper if I haven’t used mine for a while, purely because it is outdoors and gets very dirty! It doesn’t damage anything though, and when I use the railway regularly I barely have to clean it. Oh, and the “rule of four” is spot on! That will always shift it! 😉 I bought a hand-held hoover for £50 which sucks up any dirt and also helps keep my shed fairly dust free! 👍 Actually, I am off until Monday and now the wind has dropped and it is sunny out, I may well go and give it all good clean 🤔 Cheers matey! 🍻👍🌈
Thanks very much Tim! Ahh I suppose if you're outdoors, desperate measures may be in order! Fantastic - have fun out there mate! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam! Another interesting video. Using Kato UniTrack, the fishplates are built into the UniJoiner, which also contains a solid conductive piece, so the electrical conductivity is guaranteed. I’ve had problems with trains derailing because of accidentally misconnecting pieces so that the rails weren’t level, but never conductivity issues! I haven’t got space for a permanent layout, and I haven’t had any of my track out for a running session for quite a while, so some of it’s probably pretty dirty by now! I do store my track in the Kato packaging though! The Dapol track cleaning car is an H0/00 version of the Japanese TOMIX cleaning car. I have an N-Scale one, which came in a set along with a loco for traction. They are supposed to be pretty good, though I can’t give any personal experience since I haven’t used it yet! But with UniTrack, I’d be quite a bit wary of using solvent based products for track cleaning, since so much of the track piece is plastic.... More so with the double-track concrete slab base viaducts I’ll be using for the Shinkansen line on my future layout!
@@Poliss95 Hmmm.... Interesting. I might give it a try on a small, inconspicuous piece of track.... Since I really don’t wanna melt the Tōhoku Shinkansen!
Absolutely smashed a few myths there then Sam, well done. I am a bit of a newby when it comes to Railway modelling. I did watch a video by Fishplates; a very interesting guy to say the least when it comes to his 'delivery'. He is convinced, as a long serving electrician, that using INOX which is a conductive lubricant is best. However, I take your point that lubricants could reduce grip, which is essential to getting up inclines, even if you have used the magnet powerbase system from DCC Concepts, which uses weighted magnets and metal plates under your track, to assist in climbing inclines; which I discovered that it does. I might consider using a Peco Track Rubber now after this video. I would love you to do a video on comparing INOX, along with other types. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog of Digon Alley Station.
Hello Sam! I personally use Bachmann E-Z Lube track cleaning solution for my small oval of Bachmann E-Z steel track, mainly because it was the cheapest on Amazon at the time and I don’t have a lot of money. It does do a good job of keeping the track clean, however, it leaves a conductive film over the track that is actually quite slippery and oily and so I have to run a loco for 5-10 minutes before it wears off. I usually apply the track cleaner with either Q-Tips or a microfiber cloth or towel, usually every 3-4 days because of heavy usage and, well, it’s steel. I only have three locomotives (all Bachmann Thomas and friends) and 5 pieces of rolling stock (again, all Thomas and Friends), so for me it does a fine job. If you do happen to do a video on track cleaning solutions, I would suggest checking this one out. Wish you all the best!
Hi Sam, what a nice well balanced video and thanks for the shout and link. I do recommend 'WD40 Contact Cleaner' now after decades of using IPA. There should be no loss of traction as it evaporates as fast as IPA but it would be an interesting test all the same. Going back to the Peco track rubber I 100% agree and while I've not needed to use it since switching fluids, I fully intend to carry on using it as needed, like you showed, there is no need to scrub the rails, just lightly pass it over a few times and occasionally clean the rubber! As to track damage, I did a video using a microscope that shows in fact, used properly the rubber smooths the rails down (burnishing) Great stuff mate, Mike.
Thanks so much Mike - very glad to have seen your video before I released this one... I'd be really disappointed to have missed the polar-solvent concept! I've ordered some of the WD40 contact cleaner, and may well do some tests on video - I'll be really interested to see how it works! I do like the rubbers - they're a good compromise for me, as I have lots of track and very little time! ;) Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I hardly ever have to clean my track because using an artists graphite pencil (not a big lump of graphite which is too course) I very lightly glide the pencil along the track maybe 2 strokes for every length treated. The train wheels are never dirty and electrical charge not impaired and nothing is damaged. You can get the pencils at any good artists supply shop for about £8. It’s over a year since I last had to clean the tracks.
Nice video Sam did you know that balsa wood works quite well as it is soft and doesnt put scratches on the top surface of the track. I made my own track cleaning car and the cleaning pad is made from balsa wood and the great thing about it is it doesnt leave bits of balsa wood chippings on the track and ballast and you can clean it using either methylated spirits or IPA it works quite well i recomend you try it it has worked for me so im sure it will work for you.
Hi Sam, great video. Here's my theory for track cleaning. If you look at the real railway, you will notice that the regularly used track is nice and shiny and the least used track is dull and almost rusty by comparison. So to keep your track clean, just keep running trains and that is the best part of the hobby. By the way I only have to clean my track 2or3 times a year. I use electrical contact cleaner on points and a peco track rubber for the rest of the track. Keep up the good work. Cheers Chris.
To build on a couple of points Sam mentioned, i you're having trouble with a fishplate I find clamping the rails in a vice together and then squeezing them together with pliers a little bit helps. Then for the track rubber argument, the only time I've ever had a lot of dust generate is when I leave my layout for a while and have to clean the older steel rails which rust to a point were the conductivity is negligible, meaning the voltage simply can't power the locos, even then I just keep a small vacuum cleaner I keep in the loft to go over these areas. If anyone says avoid using a track rubber just don't listen, they're great, an absolute necessity to your railway
Very good idea Dom - if they're not already stuck to the baseboard, that'd be great! Yes rusty rails cause a lot of track rubber crumbs... but I guess there's not much you can do about that! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam. without going through hundreds of comments, you had left off one very easy and quite pleasurable way of cleaning your track: run trains on them. the voltage alone keeps a fair amount of residue off, same with the wheels. one small trainset I have is standard gauge: yes, they tend to run at higher volts (15 to 25) and yes the sheer weight (402E is around 4kg) but even with 90 year old rusty tinplate rails with nails for connectors and not used for months at a time, still runs. keep those wheels rolling :)
White vinegar applied with cotton buds cleans up really dirty track. My nickel silver track had been on a board on its side in a garage for 30 years! Cleaned it all up and ran DCC sound locos on it. Perfect.
Sam, The Dapol rail cleaner/hoover is only designed to work on 9v maximum. Prolonged running over the 9v will melt a safety device in the unit, that will need replacements from Dapol. Both of mine are DCC fitted now & I've set CV5=185 to give a steady 9v output. This info, I believe, is in the operator's manual. In regards to IPA, you can get 70% IPA or rubbing alcohol. I've used to 99% to strip paint & very successfully too. So I'd be wary using it on painted track.
Interesting - I don't have my manual any more, but I'm pretty sure it was rated for 12v... the online manual says 12v at the top but only for DCC, not sure why: www.dapol.co.uk/pdfs/Track-cleaner.pdf Mine doesn't have the safety device any more - I got fed up of it - as I only use the vacuum, it runs just fine on 12v as it's under very little load! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam. Just been talking to the person you referred to. He even rants in his replies. He said Peco rubbers are the worst. People have been using them for years with no problems. Then he started on isopropyl alcohol, wow I almost lost the will to live. Think the bloke needs professional help. I did use the argument you put forward but did not mention you. Keep safe mucker. Pete and Su.
Nice review Sam ,I’ve never had trouble with Peco track rubber ,it really does depend on how you use it ,gently is my way & it works ,but do it often .😊
Hi Sam, as in a previous post, I use 2 triang track cleaning cars, (yes you can get new pads) but i use IPA in the tanks, dont get the eye watering fumes from meths, does a superb job, like the idea of a low powered loco with the Dapol cleaning car, possibly fit loco with a variable resistor, best of both worlds
Thanks for sharing Mark - that sounds good! Be careful though - what about arcs/sparks from the tracks? IPA is super flammable!! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@markjarvis1600 The fire brigade say you shouldn't use a fire extinguisher unless you've been trained to use them. That was their official advice when I asked them.
If you are experiencing a power drop between one side of your layout and the other. You could try 1 of 3 things, # 1 solder your rail joints. #2 solder a jumper wire over the joints. #3 bus power threw heavy gauge wire, and connect from bus wire to the track in multiple places around the track. "Cleaning" the track I use 2000-5000 grit polishing sandpaper no residue left behind no scratch marks either. You use that fine of grit you are buffing and not sanding.
I am using spiritus and recently ipa as well. Both seem to work fine. Can not tell the difference between the two yet. Do have several experiences with track cleaning rubbers. The best up to now is the one of Roco. The worst was the one off Noch. I am going to try the one of Peco as well. Good video! Thank you.
Was thinking about this video recently because I tried something new; carburetor air intake cleaner. Just sprayed a bit onto a Jay cloth and gave the rails a wipe and it did a brilliant job.
Nice video Sam. Would be nice if you could do more mythbusting with model railways. Your "experiments", older model reviews and themes running sessions really sets you apart from other channel. Looking foward to you getting 100k subscribers soon!
I remember that video you're talking about. When I was watching it I just thought "eh?". Used a Hornby track rubber for donkeys with no problems. I just use a Hoover afterwards to get any bits that have been dropped. Works a treat every time. With the new larger layout I was thinking of getting he sharg cleaner out of pure laziness. I've used IPA before with no issues too, I'd probably use that in the sharg. I remember watching that video and looking at my 5l tub of 99.9% IPA and just laughing. The one thing I found absolutely useless was Track Magic. It left a film all over the track which greatly reduced traction up my inclines. Ended up having to go clean it all off again with a track rubber! Great video, obviously the other one hit a sore spot with you, and no wonder with such bad information. Cheers, John.
Hi Sam a splendid video indeed. I must admit that track cleaning has been a grey area but I now use a track cleaning car after using the rubber,no problems at all.
Good evening Sam Another excellent video, I do enjoy the technical explanations you do. This may sound daft but it never occurred to me to look for IPA on eBay! I will also invest in a fibre pen. In terms of what I do to clean track, believe it or not I have found the cardboard (the inside face of a cereal box for example) can remove dirty from rail surfaces. As the dirt is visible on the card, you can keep going until no more dirt appears. Something else I have heard people do (and I am yet to try it myself) is use graphite from pencils, rubbed over areas like points to improve electrical continuity. Stay well.
Thanks a lot Adam! Yeah go for it - just be careful not to touch the fibres. Yes I've heard of cardboard being used before too - that's one I should try too!! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I used to have an infrared camera on loan. I would open my track loops at some point, and run a few amperes of current through them. The IR images would immediately show where there was a high resistance joint that got warmer... I have tons of those IPA soaked postage stamp sized disinfectant pads .. they are perfect to put under that old and grimy track rubber bar under the track cleaner car, to give it new cleaning power. And it could be interesting to see if spot welding the fishplates to the track would do any good on permanent layouts. There are small inexpensive spot welders available for DIY lithium battery pack assembly.
I'm not terribly keen on abrasive cleaners, but the Peco one is brilliant for cleaning up track with small nicks on the running surface, or even tiny blobs of solder. It will remove most imperfections and leave a lovely smooth surface. Glass fibre pens work well but leave nasty debris that can stick into your skin as micro splinters. My preferred method is to use the CMX cleaning wagon. It's an American HO product and resembles a bogie tanker wagon, but is made of solid brass - it weighs a ton - with a spring loaded cleaning pad that is pressed against the track. The tanker part holds the cleaning fluid which is then allowed to drip onto the pad via an adjustable outlet so that it is constantly being replenished. I prefer to use automotive brake cleaner as my cleaning fluid; it dries almost instantly and leaves no residue while being harmless to most plastics and very cost effective at around £10 for 5 litres. You need a powerful loco to push this wagon because there is friction between the cleaning pad and the rails, but after three passes you can rub your finger along the rail and you will see no dirt on your finger at all. If you rub before cleaning you will bet a horrible black line on your finger. This wagon cleans only and won't remove any imperfections in the track but it works brilliantly. There is only one downside - mine cost about £150! It's a case of being pleased to have spent more money than you wanted to because the result is really good.
I use electrical contact cleaner for delicate electrical switching gear which works really well. I spray a small amount on a clean rag then 2 wipes ,nice clean track,it does improve the conductivity I have a Peco track rubber which I used to use ,now only occasionally if I have run out of electrical contact cleaner. I haven’t noticed any lack of adhesion on the part of my locomotives and I have a couple of grades although my locomotives are Athearn,Atlas,Bachmann Diesels which have heavy diecast chassis which gives them good adhesion. I enjoyed watching the video and your fact based approach to it.👍😀😀😀🚂
Thank you Sam for the video. I am not sure you have proved your point. I think it is fair to say that polishing of metal involves scratching. Sites about the making of jewellery make it clear that polishing involves making smaller and smaller scratches. However, the video by Model Railways Unlimited where new track is viewed under a microscope and the far from perfect surface demonstrated and the subsequent results of using a Peco track rubber are shown is most interesting and perhaps redeems track rubbers. The website for Cabling Installation Maintenance does not give IPA a ringing endorsement for cleaning fibre optic cable. It is asserted that isn’t a brilliant cleaner and that it does leave a residue. Apparently IPA is hydroscopic, that is it attracts moisture to itself. The headroom in IPA containers as well as its exposure to the air brings about this effect. The suggestion is that once opened our 99.9% IPA will reduce itself to a lower purity over time and stabilises at about 65/35. I am not sure polar and non polar is pseudoscience, although I am far from being a scientist. The dielectic constant shown in the Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine article dated 5 May 2019 seems to make sense as does the view that the build up of muck is caused by electrical arcing. Consequently, a cleaner with a low dielectic constant looks like a good idea. In the old days I guess we would have used carbon tetrachloride for certain cleaning jobs. I am starting new with O gauge. Having sprayed the track with sleeper grime, I cleaned the heads with white spirit (mineral spirits in the USA and Canada). I was most unsure about this, but from a non polar point of view it is good. Consequently, I am going to go down the Inox MX3 road. I think I am unlikely to experience traction issues and I won’t have any traction tyres. However, your point that model railways isn’t just about electrical contact was well made and I see the benefits of Inox MX3 to slot car racers may not be directly applicable to model railways. It occurred to me that Peco Power Lube, formerly Electrolube, has been about for years.
Oh dear, Sam, If you look at the piece of brass that you demonstrated with, you will notice that the rubber has scratched the brass, It can do this to your track as well. I now use my track rubbers for smoothing edges of cut timber. I use the track cleaner which is made of brass, and holds fluid.
I was having some trouble with mine, so I eventually just polished it with a rotary tool Also solder your joints if you aren't going to disassemble 2 tracks
Hi Sam, for adding additional power to the other side of the layout do you just plug your wires into the back of the controller? (I’ve got an hm2000) and does it matter what wires you use?
It doesn't matter what wires you use, and yes you could just jam two wires into the controller if you wanted to bodge it. Probably easier to solder two sets of wires together, but whatever works for you! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Yes I’ve been using Peco track rubbers for years to good effect. When the rubbers becomes well worn out I cut them up and use the smaller pieces to clean loco wheels. I find a range of solutions work best. I have a Shark cleaning wagon that uses a chemical soaked pad to clean track. This works well especially as there are some parts of my layout, a large tunnel for instance, that take ages to disassemble to gain access, and only get done once or so a year. I’ll be trying the glass fibre pen for points.
Fascinating stuff !! Be interesting to see your comments on using and cleaning older coated steel track, funnily enough I saw a recent YT vid which pointed out probably the only advantage of said track being that old Triang locos with magnadhesion worked better on plain steel track. Aso a trial of the famous old Traing Hornby track cleaning wagon would be fun, keep up the good work !!
haha I do have some steel track - not a fan of it, and it certainly requires more regular cleaning... but the magnadhesion is definitely a big plus! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
At the end of this video you mentioned that you have power going into your track in multiple locations, but my question is where is the source the power is coming from? I’ve always thought about having an extra pair of wires coming from my controller to go to the other side of my layout, but I’ve always been told that if you have multiple wires attached to a single output, then problems will occur. Another thing that I have found with continuity in the track is soldering the fishplates to the rails.
As a "rugroader" I do sometimes experience stuff getting caught in the motion of my locos, although this is probably more from my socks than anything else. So on my temporary floor layouts I try to vacuum the track and surrounding area with my vacuum cleaner every time before a run. Märklin models with their traction tires will invariably leave a nice deposit of gunk on the track after a while, as well as picking it up, so the track cleaning could be more important here. They also have a nice little cleaning wagon with sprung felt pads which seems to work well enough. Some people also claim the AC current removes the dirt, but I have no evidence for that. The ultimate goal is obviously to have a permanent layout up off the floor, keeps them much cleaner and you don't have to risk stepping on your models... now if only I could afford that big house with room for a layout. ;) PS: I believe I know the video and chap you're refering to.
haha a rugroader, love it! Yes vacuuming is a very good idea - essential for me too! Appreciate you sharing your methods mate, Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Did you ever do a traction comparison between contact cleaner and IPA etc.? I find using the contact cleaner Inox as some suggest does an amazing job; both in terms of cleaning the track and then cleaning all the wheels of all stock that runs on it afterwards - only issues are that you need to then wipe the tracks regularly as all the dirt comes off the wheels; plus it does reduce the natural friction of the rails and reduces the ability of a loco to haul longer trains. My conclusion was to use it just to clean wheels of used stock in bulk when I acquire the items, then use ipa to clean it off the tracks again when done.
Totally agree with you Sam about the Peco track rubber and IPA. I use both with no problems. Good to hear proper advice about fishplates too. I would be interested to know about connecting additional sources of power to a layout, to prevent slowdown away from the main controller. Perhaps you have a specific wiring video for that? Thanks, Pete.
Finally a common sense approach. Really good tip about the fishplates. When I get my layout up and running I will probably trial a strong magnet glued to a wagon to grab any potential debris.
Appreciate it - yeah - as soon as fishplates were on my radar, the number of issues I had went down 90%! Great idea on the magnet - that could work a treat for me too! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you again Sam, you always prove your statements, ie the track rubber on wood, I'm a big believer in the peco track rubbers and like you have used poor ones, but I'm always looking for better and easier ways as I have approximately 240 feet of track to clean and it's a 00 gauge garden railway and I'm not getting any younger, I've tried most cleaners without success and always come back to the peco track rubbers, the only thing I haven't tried is the CMX mobile cleaner, I have had some good feedback from users, have you or any of your colleagues had any experience of this as they are expensive which of course is ok providing they are an equal or give better results than a track rubber, thank you so much again for your informative videos Sam.
Thanks a lot Paul - yeah I am too - I've always sworn by them! Thanks for sharing - I'll definitely look into some of those cleaners! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hey Sam. I've seen the video in question and I have to say I agree with you more on the subject - I've personally been using alcohol and Peco rubber cleaners for nearly 15 years and haven't run into any major issues however I did want to get your thoughts on something. One thing the video claimed is that the rubber can leave deposits on your track which will get on your wheels, I have had this issue on stock that covers a lot of distance each month. I try my best to make sure lubricants stay off the track and 95 percent of the stuff I run has metal wheels. I don't remember having this issue in the past however this issue seems to have started after I started using the Peco branded one, instead of the one I had been using years before. Do you suspect this is due to something else or related? Thanks ~Harrison
Thanks a lot mate - yeah never had a problem with track rubbers either! I think it depends on the rubber - I once bought a Gaugemaster one that was horrible, and left all kinds of gunk on the track. Never had it happen with the Peco one though! You never know though - an experiment/investigation into that might make a good vid? Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam,i must admit i use all those methods you showed.In fact when i first started back into this great hobby,a friend gave me a load of old track which was pretty dirty,so i cleaned it all up using the rubber and IPA.I also purchased a Gaugemaster track cleaning wagon,but as yet i havent got a loco that will pull the blooming thing !
Thanks for sharing Michael - yeah I've never had a problem doing it this way! haha yeah, not easy to pull with the attachments fitted! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam: creates this video about cleaning and maintaining model railways Me who can’t afford a model railway: interesting But I must say, your videos keep me sane while I’m quarantined into my house! Thanks 😊 for keeping me cheered up !
Ahh sorry to hear that mate - hope you can get a railway one day! Hope you're staying safe, fingers crossed it'll all be over soon! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, The never ending story on track cleaning... Mike's video explains it well why NOT to use IPA. The best cleaner is to run trains very regular so dust has less chance to build up on the rails. And it also is the reason for this hobby, no? To reduce 'arcing' between the pick up wheels and the track just pass a stick of graphite - or use a simple soft carpenters pencil - in some spots on top and inside of the rail and let rolling stock wheels spread the microscopic protective layer. Why: graphite is a very good conductor. I very seldom 'clean' my track since there is less 'black gunk' building up as a result. Passing the vacuum cleaner on the other hand is a must and a good track rubber is always handy to clean after painting & ballasting or smearing the rails. But you know... put two model railroaders together and you will have three different opinions... Thanks for sharing & greetings.
Thanks a lot Filip -yes I enjoyed Mike's video... it's spurred me on to get some contact cleaner and do some tests with it!! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Agree with the graphite for conductivity but traction tyres loose their grip on it (I like minitrix N Gauge for their detail and reliability, but they need tyres for traction due to their light weight)
@@alanwhite6293 I have Ho Trix tank engine 2-6-2 and Mehano diesel Co-Co with traction tires. No problem on my 2% inclines. Only use graphite with 'moderation'. I use a carpenters pencil to apply to the inside of the rails. From time to time I clean the loco wheels and pickups. For the rest just smooth hassle free running. Success!
excellent video Sam, very informative my old layout i used the good ol' Peco track rubber, never had an issue with it. As for after cleaning I had a triang box van with a felt pad underneath, soaked that is a LITTLE surgical spirit and ran it up and down a few time (it as an end to end layout and that first cleaned the rail heads, then after the spirit evaporated, gave it a quick buff. If I needed to give the rails a real going over, say after a few weeks when it was out of use due to track relaying or the like, a gentle rub over with superfine jewelers quality emery paper (FF grade) would do a fine job. And a trick i used with fish plates. in places where the track joins were permanent I would secure the plates with a tiny dot of solder to ensure a good connection. In places where I thought I may need to break the track for relaying or base board movement, i would bridge the fishplate with a tiny piece of copper wire soldered to the outside of the rails bridging the fishplate area in such a way that is could be snipped or de-soldered easily. This assured good connectivity and smooth running on all track
Thanks so much for sharing Jon - yeah I do swear by those rubbers! Thanks for sharing your methods, and yes I've heard about track being soldered that way, sounds good to me! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, yet another great video with words to think about. I used an electrical contact rubber for the rails but found it went very quickly. Then went across to 99.9% IPA Which works really well and also on the loco wheels. Have now got a PECO track rubber which I use much as you demonstrated. Fishplates now that one to think about, just need to find a good supplier at good price as they can quickly add up. Thanks again for a great video. I did think about your layout on carpet but it’s the train/railway room. Not living room carpet.... 👍😎
Thanks a lot Marc! Yes I've used 99.9 for a long time (mainly on locos) and do swear by it! That's true, they can be very expensive in large quantities! xD Thanks for watching, Sam :)
My layout is only small. I use nail varnish remover and a track rubber to clean track, seems to work fine for me, also got a Hornby track cleaner coach
Yes Sam do a show on track cleaning products ... Iam looking good one ... Just started running vintage American Flyers S gauge ... I have some nasty sections of rail ... Great broadcast regards from Canada ...
My line is 45mm gauge but I clean my line with just a wet rag. But because the track cleaning was getting to annoying I have switched to live steam which is a lot better. It worked very well but for a line which is outside and very long and large it takes forever. About 5 minutes per running day which is almost every day of most of the year. It worked very well but also I had to go over it more than just once as its outside and it gets very dirty. To take those 5 minutes to 10. Live steam is a bit more expensive but it’s a lot les of a hassle to set up an in many cases a lot quicker. Best regards Sam-(it’s my name) VVR
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Nice video Sam and some good points. A few other things to consider:
1) Most chemical substances people use for track cleaning are skin irritants and produce toxic vapours so should be used with gloves in a well ventilated place, plus eye protection just in case of splashes or if you wipe your eyes without thinking.
2) Electrical contact lubricants like Inox or WD40 specialist electrical contact cleaner DON'T leave a sticky residue, though some other chemical cleaners do.
3) One of the major arguments against abrasive cleaning like track rubbers is it produces tiny scratches to your rails which increases surface area and therefore oxidisation. Theoretically this means your rails will get dirty more quickly over time. However how much difference this makes in reality is unclear.
I guess the best way to find out is to get some brand new track and set up two lines then clean one with a track rubber and one with an electric contact cleaner, use them the same amount and then see how they compare after a decent length of time.
4) Have you ever tried Gaugemasters high frequency electronic track cleaner? I've seen a few forum posts which swear by it, although I don't know anyone personally who's tried it. My understanding is it should probably only be used on DC layouts as putting an electrical surge through DDC chips isn't a good idea.
Overall there seem to be a lot of theories and anecdotal stories about track cleaning, but little hard evidence. And the track manufacturers like Hornby and Peco don't seem to have much to say. Perhaps influencers like yourself could encourage them to do some experiments and publish the results? It would be good PR for them and having some facts to back up a cleaning product would surely be an excellent marketing tactic for them.
Hello Sam. Another fascinating video. My father always used a Peco track cleaning rubber since 1974. Never had any problems. It always makes the way permanent. Another classic Sam SUPERB thank you 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🐖🚄🚅
Thanks so much Mark - wow have they been around for that long?!?
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Something I've heard a couple times is that the best way to keep rails clean is just to run trains. As long as your wheels are clean (and made of metal) than the friction tends to keep things clean mostly anyways. Soon as a layout sits for a long time, the rails collect grit and crud and dust and it needs to be cleaned again
Well, not necessarily. I have an industrial layout with a lot of sidings. Unfortunately, I can't always use every siding.
Sam, I just wanna say that you are the best railroading channel out there. Love your content and I hope you reach 100k soon!❤
Awhh thank you so much - that's amazing to hear! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
He already did 😊
I'm an old Luddite and still using my Triang track cleaning waggon with Methylated spirit
They may be old technology but they work
haha fantastic - yes I know lots of people use those, they do look good!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hello i clean your track
Watch out ,Sam's blocked anything that hits a sore point,much like the prescent government.Liberal Sam's trains ??? What about the Tory collectors?
My track is so dirty I'll need a few tips this video will help me out a lot! Thanks!
Glad to hear that Rowan - good luck! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
This is a video I’d hoped for, for a long time. I’ve got the Atlas incarnation of the track vacuum, and didn’t have much success with it initially. After a full clean out and re-wire, it works really well. It also has DCC which makes pushing it around slowly whilst it’s running a full speed a breeze. I personally use the methylated spirits on paper towel trick on my track, and methylated spirits on a cotton bud to clean the wheels. That’s always worked for me, but please don’t use any sort of contact cleaner on your track! I used “CRC Switch Cleaner Lubricant” on my track once, and whilst it initially seemed to work really well, after a little bit, it built up into this black tar like substance on my track, and on my locomotive and carriage wheels (sometimes the resultant grime built up so thick on my carriage bogies, they wouldn’t turn anymore, and I had to scrape them clean with a screwdriver). I honestly think I’m still trying to get some of it off my rolling stock almost 15 years and 3 layouts later! Thanks again for your insight on this topic.
I agree Steve Methylated spirit works well and not expensive
Hi Sam, great video! I discovered a neat trick just the last time I cleaned the track. To apply a cleaner (e.g. isopropyl alcohol), I had previously applied it to a cloth. But every time I got to the points, I had to be very careful to stop it snagging on the pointy bits. I had the bright idea to hold a piece of cork underlay on the bottom of a plastic ruler, squirt solvent on the end, and press down against the track and run along (flat side of the ruler down). The cork glides nicely over points and untidy rail joints without a hiccup.
Thanks so much for sharing - yeah the cloth isn't ideal actually - I did see a tool in Mike's video that looked way better, I'm thinking of investing in one!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam: Don't be afraid to use IPA to clean your track!
Me: Got it. Drink IPA's while cleaning track.
haha definitely don't do that! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I will admit, I was getting thirsty from all of the IPA talk!
My IPAs are usually between 7 and 9% alcohol though. Maybe a stout would work better?
IPAs ARE TRASH
-This message brought to you by Imperial Stout Gang
Personally, I prefer Guinness while laying track...
Hi Sam I just wanted to let you know I followed your advice, on our railway club layout everyone has a station they control so as to teach other club members. I decided to clean up my station trackage first using the Peco rubber and it cleaned up a treat, everything runs well and better now so I thought I would say cheers.
Great to hear that Guy - they are amazing things - thanks for the feedback mate! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Good video. I have been cleaning my track using bleach and a 14 inch industrial angle grinder and I have to regularly replace my entire model railway because of the unspeakable carnage. Thanks for the advice.
With runing trains on carpet the amount of lint and dust picked up all depends on how cleen the carpet is and what type of carpet. Your carpet is flat hard carpet so its all good. But soft fluffy carped is definitely a no no many because it will pickup and hold alot of dust. Love the vid sam Congratulations on 100k.
Well said Sam! The quality of track rubber matters! I have used some horrible ones that shed way too much dust even in few strokes but this Peco one seems really reliable!
Very much so - I was put off by the price of Peco ones, and looked at Hornby and Gaugemaster ones.... both in the bin within the week!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
It’s wonderful to see what needs doing what needs to be done on the maintenance of your track. At the moment, I don’t have my own layout. But when I finally get into a better flat I will be building my Ongar Station layout and running permanent Steam Gala.
Thanks so much! Ahh very exciting - hope you can build something awesome one day! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thank you, Sam!! I’m going to get three pieces of equipment when I finally move home, a 3D printer, a new locomotive or two and a load of track with which to build my first proper layout.
This is incredibly useful, thanks. I do have a question about the Dapol vacuum cleaner: presumably the direction the fan rotates switches with voltage polarity, i.e. with the direction of travel? If so, does it blow the dust out instead of sucking it in if you go the wrong way?? I'm assuming they must have thought of that but I can't find any info that addresses this point. Thanks!
Hi Sam. Very interesting subject. Peco track rubbers are great, especially if like me you sometimes don’t run trains for long periods and the track starts to tarnish. However another trick I’ve learned is to use the rough side of a small piece of hardboard with a little block glued to the smooth side to hold it. Once the track has had a clean with the track rubber I go over it again with the hardboard. After that I won’t use the rubber again unless i leave it and it starts to tarnish. I just use the hardboard.
Thanks mate, yeah never had a problem with the Pico ones either! That sounds great, I'll give that a try!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Useful video Sam - just curious - have you tried the newer DCC Concepts track rubber because I’ve read (of course can we believe all that we read - NO) that it’s a lot better than the Peco track rubber. I’ve bought one but not needed to use it yet but it seems a more dense composition that the Peco one. Maybe check it out and let us all know what you think. My YT signature - yes I’m a mine addict with an On30 US theme layout “Black Dog Mine”… 🧨⛏🧨⛏🇬🇧🚂
This is really helpful for me as my railway room gets so dusty!
Thank you! Hope it helps! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The vacuum will be helpful in a more dusty environment, even if you have to run it over daily.
Hi Sam! My name is Leo, and I wanted to start by saying thank you for having the videos like these. When I started watching your videos over a year ago, hey gave me the confidence to be able to get out there and start my own remodel railway. On to the real reason I am commenting, I use both IPA and CFC free contact cleaner in my day to day at work, and I’ve noticed that when cleaning my tools, (they have a chromed finish on them) that contact cleaner does seem to leave a bit of a film on them. So I would love to see what you find out by using it on your model railway, and why effect, if any that the contact cleaner has. Thank you again for all the wonderful videos, and have a wonderful day!
It's my pleasure Leo, thanks so much for the kind comments! I'll definitely investigate the contact cleaner, thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Plot twist: Sam is actually gonna live in that house forever without making his dream railway.
haha maybe!! xD
Sam'sTrains Not if you get a mansion 🤫🤫🤫🤫
@@sebastianfirman5780 they cost money, not lego
Sad Ending
@@adamchmielewski6162 Ah, but a lego mansion would cost way more than an actual mansion.
Oh Sam what a rabbit hole this is! May I add my half penny? I too have a large loft layout and it is cleaned once a year all over, with a PECO track rubber. The next bit may be worth your experimentation? I rub sections of the layout with a 2B graphite crayon. A spark quench, contact improver, and also a dry lubricant. The latter being a reason for not over doing the graphite. If excess has been applied the track rubber will remove it! However, this does mean that the majority of the layout is cleaned once a year, loco wheels the same.
The bit of the layout the cat sleeps on needs more regular cleaning!
My show layouts and stock, many have not been cleaned for a few years, in some cases. I assume the need , or lack of cleaning, results from the layout not sitting flat in dust collecting mode all the time... Also the show layouts tend to spend much time boxed out of use and then periods of intense operation over a one or two day period.
Graphite crayons may be bought cheaply from a decent graphic arts supply shop.... Cheers for an interesting film
do you think you could do a video comparing all of the main OO setrack track makers (bachmann, peco, hornby etc)?
Great idea Ben, that could be interesting!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
That would be real cool, especially with a ind of grouping into which fit well together. I bought 2 lots of used N scale track some time ago, having no idea what I was doing. It was only luck that the Roco and the Minitrix pieces were actually identical, and fit perfectly.
Just use Peco track and points,
Absolutely spot on Sam. I use a Peco rubber too and I've never had any problems with it. I also use my Dapol track cleaner in vacuum mode only. (I found that some of the rotating pads caught point blades.) I've found IPA and a cotton bud is ideal for cleaning between point blades and the adjacent rails.
Thanks very much Les - yeah I do swear by the rubbers, with gentle use I've never had any issues!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I haven’t cleaned my track for weeks however I have recently received a gauge master high frequency unit which cleans track
Ahh interesting - I've heard about those!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
They work for DC models but will cook decoders on dcc
@@doggerbendrailway6002 there one reason to stay with DC then
I used to work my trains in a high dust area and rubber and metholated spirts worked very well on dcc
I just fitted a Gaugemaster GMC-HF2 to my (pre-cleaned) tracks yesterday, so obviously it's on trial, but I did notice the number of pulses (as it burnt off dirt) from the leds reduced substantially after only half an hour. A good part of the layout is covered and very tricky to clean manually, so hopefully it will now stay clean!
PS bought new from Hattons last year, it was forty-something pounds, less than some of the Fleabay used ones!
I have modelled railways for over 50 years and the Peco track rubber is the best method. I have a rubber that's 11 years old, one doesn't need to rub hard to get tarnish off. A very informative video, there again, that's why I watch you :)
I agree Anthony, though I don't have the experience you do! They really do last for ages!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Have you tried putting magnets under the track cleaner to pick up metalic fragments?
Ooh you got a heart
That sounds a stunning idea - definitely give that a try! :D
@@SamsTrains The abrasive will be silicon carbide, zirconium oxide or aluminium oxide. Unfortunately none of them are magnetic.
Sam - outstanding video ...and a great topic. Good to see you are honest. I wouldn't spend a mint on a "final" layout EITHER, iF I knew it was not a place I was going to stay at for any massive length of time.
Fishplates - We call 'em "joiners" here in the US....point well taken though - make sure those things are in perfect shape and clean before you use them. Electrical contact is EVERYTHING to achieve a clean, smooth, running railroad.....
As you've shown, I would also suggest just vacuuming the track after you clean it....with whatever you decide to use. In fact, vacuum the track every 3 weeks or so regardless.
I've also had basic success with a VERY FINE grit sandpaper lightly run over the rails....followed by a great wiping with isopropyl alcohol......(always use 99% pure folks), finally followed by a final vacuuming. I tried that "Rail Zip" crap....and it was BAD - DON'T do it as it LEFT a residue that just caused me trouble. After cleaning your rails....it's also good to clean your cars and loco wheels at the same time so the dirt from the locos and cars don't get tracked back ONTO your clean rails! Is it a pain?....yeah...it is...but a good running model railway is WELL worth it! Keep those car wheels clean!
For slot car fans (as I am one also), these same basic principles described above apply.
Thanks so much! Yeah as soon as I started checking the fishplates/joiners, you wouldn't believe how many problems just disappeared! Thanks for sharing your methods too,
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Next time on Sams trains: Sam fits all his engines with track cleaning things in there undercarriages and such
haha!! xD
Yeah drag a track rubber with a powerful loco
I wonder if I should do that for my railroad. It would save me a lot of time to just have an engine that I use for track maintenance.
Hi Sam, great video. I use the gaugemaster track cleaner - it is a tank in HO made out of brass so extremely heavy with a piece of corduroy cloth that rubs on the tracks. I fill the tank with 'Goo Gone' which then drips onto the cloth, it is a brilliant cleaner. In fact the tank is so heavy I have to use a pair of 37's top and tailing it! Also it has the advantage of cleaning the loco wheels as well! My layout is 20" x 11" and I never worry about fish plates or voltage drop as it is DCC and almost every rail is individually connected to the bus line!
I really needed this video! Thanks mate
Thank you! Good luck! :D
Pulled some old tarnished brass Fleischmann rails out to make a temporary test track & used Brasso & a soft cloth to shine them up to work beautifully.
Hey Sam so I probably haven't too seen look so cool with that hornby of character I think anyway well how do they making bro
That's okay Llesh, thanks for sharing!
Sam :)
@@SamsTrains your welcome
I use a very fine emery block when my track gets really bad, but most of the time I used either a Hornby track cleaning coach and I have 2 gauge master track "mops" having under a inspection/directors salon. The latter normally gets given a run on each running session. Its only a case of bringing the track head back to bright.
As for dust and hair, I think it makes a big difference if you have pets, I've seen train set locos full of hair, not fluff.
Have you ever had experience of the electronic track cleaners that form part of the layouts circuitry? I just find I am ham fisted when it comes to passing through the station, and past the signals.
I would not use an emery block on the track unless it was the very, very finest grit. So fine that it polishes the track.
@@Poliss95 is certainly fine, its what I used for metal polishing in my engineering workshop, and rubbing back on paint on our traction engines. I never use anything courser than 600 grit for that.
I have used emery bocks and cloth for years, never had a issue. Why is the reason you wouldn't use it? if its because of wearing of the track, you would have to clean it 1000's of times before you had any serious degradation of track. Its unlikely the minute amount aluminum oxide dust will harm anything.
Biggest headache to date in track maintenance ......cob webs! Hadn't been in train said for several weeks and they were several on the scenic section.. but none in the fiddle yard area, so I guess they like the Southern side of the shed better haha.
@@James_Rivett Thanks a lot for sharing - never tried emery blocks as I was worried about them scratching the surface... maybe the finer stuff is fine then??
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains any abrasive will scratch the surface, the coarseness of the abrasive will dictated the coarseness of the scratches.
Thank goodness. I needed this, my track is worse then yours (including THOSE points).-Das Mann
haha no worries mate - hope this helps! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam - for what it's worth I've used IPA on a cotton bud on narrow gauge tracks and it works superbly, evaporating quickly and leaving no residue (quick tip - you can also use it for cleaning video recorder and audio cassette heads if you're old skool). I would urge caution about using WD40 on trackwork - not because it won't work but because WD40 can have catastrophic effects on loco chassis with lots of plastic in there (Obviously Hornyby Dublo and the like will not have this problem). A friend tried WD40 to clean a Berlinerbahn TT loco chassis - which promptly fell apart! Forewarned is forearmed
Thanks for sharing David, yes I've never had a problem either! Yeah I wouldn't put WD40 anywhere near my models... the contact cleaner remains to be seen though!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The only model railways use for WD-40 is to oil the hinges of your front gate so the missus doesn't hear the postie delivering your extremely expensive new loco. :-)
Person: says track rubbers make a mess
Me: it’s just making ballast
Also, can you make a tutorial on how to make a tart class?
haha exactly - just ballast!! haha I don't know - there's no exact science to it, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
"how to make a tart class?"
- Send her to a Swiss finishing school for elocution and deportment lessons?
Sorry, I'll get my coat!
My layout is in a detached garage that gets cold when I'm not in there with a heater on and I usually don't spend time in there during the winter months. It means that there can be a number of weeks with no use and the rails get quite dirty.
I have found that the Hornby club red 0-4-0 Bagnal diesel shunter runs quite happily on the dirty track, it's often the only loco that will run on my track when dirty. I will often use it with the Hornby track cleaning carriage running around my 3 continuous circuits for about 30 minutes at a time which gets most of the grime off however I get best results going around with the Pico track rubber and use it on the branches.
I also use IPA with good results and a glass fiber pen for the points though it takes time as I have 40 set of points on my layout!
My solution for fish plates is Conductive Wire Glue, a little drop into the fish plate on assembly and all surfaces are electrically connected, if it's a small drop then a good waggle and pull will break the joint without damage if the layout needs changing.
Polar solvent or not, I would have thought that the IPA will have evaporated away shortly after use. Thereby, leaving zero residue. I don’t think the polarity of the solvent would therefore be an issue.
Thanks for responding to the anti track rubber video. My Fleischmann rubber is very efficient. Here's a thought for you - when I was young in New Zealand my family had a large Marklin layout and we NEVER needed to clean the track! I think it ran faultlessly for around 30 years. My father became hooked on Marklin when they were visiting Germany in 1952 and spent the budget on trains!
Should’ve opened with The X Files theme song after you said “My personal secrets” 😂
haha I know right!! xD
hi, update. took track back to where i bought it. they cleaned it and the train worked, straight throw. bought a peco rubber cleaner. thanks
I have been using track rubber for about 30 years had no trouble with them at all keep up the good work Sam telling everybody 🇬🇧
Great to hear that Roy - me neither, appreciate it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Me who just accidentally Broke a point while fixing a derailment issue: Interesting
For anyone wondering: I was Un nailing my track and a bit of rail got ripped off
Oops!! Did you fix it??! :(
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I’ve used the Dapol track cleaning car when I worked at Gulliver’s
Gate. Like you I only used it as a
vacuum cleaner, and boy, the amount of dust picked up each week was
amazing. I had four of them there. Since the layouts were DCC what I did was
install a rectifier in each car so they would operate at full speed while the
locomotive (DCC fitted) would pull them at a more reasonable speed.
Yes they are really quite good vacuums aren't they? Never known anything better! Gulliver's gate sounds amazing- you lucky bugger. Great idea on the rectifier - I never thought of that, you'd get some great voltage out of that on DCC! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Gulliver's Gate was inspired by Miniatur Wunderland. Sadly Gulliver's Gate closed in January 2020. It was located in Times Square, Manhattan, NYC, New York.
Bro you can use that thing to clean the track if their is Covid-19 on the track
Tie those viruses to the track and run an express freight over them.
They won't clean Covid off the track, you will need some anti-viran solution for that which may damage the track.
I am guessing you are asking encase the track is being touched by people and not as a joke.
In that sense, the same goes for the controller, Loco and so on, So I am not sure, maybe an antibacterial cloth.
haha! ;D
This has to be one of the most well thought out, objective and informative videos I have seen on the subject. Well done sir!
Thank you so much - that's very kind of you! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam. I use a Dapol track cleaner (inter city blue livery) on a DC layout. I found I had to put a bridge rectifier in the suppy to the motor as the vacuum only worked in one diection. In the other direction it blew the balast etc out from the sides of the wagon. Perhaps mine was an earlier model. It now works fine in either diection.
Everard Junction has done a video with the American CMX track cleaner using 'Goo Gone' fluid. It's basically a tank wagon filled with cleaning fluid with a piece of cloth attached beneath the chassis. You control the flow rate of the fluid via a screw top. By far one of the best examples out there. Shame there isn't one on the British market but you could convert an old tank wagon in to one, that's what I'm planning to do in future. Maybe you could look in to it and do a video?? Would make an awesome project. I have a Hornby track rubber but also use Deluxe Materials 'Track Magic' solution, highly recommended Sam. ;)
Thanks for sharing Russell, I'll have to look into that too!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
My track cleaning set up includes a a Peco track rubber for heavy cleaning and for general cleaning I use a a train pushing a Hornby track cleaning wagon with slightly more weight added and a HO scale tanker wagon track cleaning wagon with a foam pad underneath where you can put a track cleaning fluid liquid onto. I would then use my train tech track tester to check if I am getting conductivity around the layout.
The track cleaning fluid I use is track magic by Deluxe materials. Track magic is a great product as I had to clean up a Scalextric track for my brother and it was very dirty and starting to show signs of corrosion. I used the Peco track rubber to get rid of the worst of the dirt then applied the track magic and noticed one of its claims comes true as it prevents corrosion, the rust spots went from the rusty brown to a grey silver colour.
Thanks very much for sharing Ben - that sounds just the job! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I just use a Peco track rubber. I've had the same one for about 10 years. The track gets cleaned fairly regularly, maybe once every two months (or as I see fit).
Never had any issues.
Me too William - they're great aren't they?! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I saw in an American video on youtube that the guy had a Tidy Track which is a cleaning head attached to a metal handle via a moveable joint. It followed the rails and he just pushed it around. Quick and easy.
Great vid. I use a Bachmann track cleaner. It is a motorized box car with two scrubbers that scrub each rail as you add current into the track it powers The scrubbers are use a diesel locomotive to pull the cleaner and just after a couple of laps it looks new again. The scrubbers have sticky pads that you replace and that is all there is to it
Thanks so much Thomas - I never knew they made one - very cool, I'll look it up!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, lots of handy hints and “bravo” with regards the track rubber myth busting! 👏 I am a bit naughty as I use 3000 glass paper if I haven’t used mine for a while, purely because it is outdoors and gets very dirty! It doesn’t damage anything though, and when I use the railway regularly I barely have to clean it. Oh, and the “rule of four” is spot on! That will always shift it! 😉
I bought a hand-held hoover for £50 which sucks up any dirt and also helps keep my shed fairly dust free! 👍
Actually, I am off until Monday and now the wind has dropped and it is sunny out, I may well go and give it all good clean 🤔
Cheers matey! 🍻👍🌈
Thanks very much Tim! Ahh I suppose if you're outdoors, desperate measures may be in order! Fantastic - have fun out there mate!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam!
Another interesting video. Using Kato UniTrack, the fishplates are built into the UniJoiner, which also contains a solid conductive piece, so the electrical conductivity is guaranteed.
I’ve had problems with trains derailing because of accidentally misconnecting pieces so that the rails weren’t level, but never conductivity issues!
I haven’t got space for a permanent layout, and I haven’t had any of my track out for a running session for quite a while, so some of it’s probably pretty dirty by now! I do store my track in the Kato packaging though!
The Dapol track cleaning car is an H0/00 version of the Japanese TOMIX cleaning car. I have an N-Scale one, which came in a set along with a loco for traction. They are supposed to be pretty good, though I can’t give any personal experience since I haven’t used it yet!
But with UniTrack, I’d be quite a bit wary of using solvent based products for track cleaning, since so much of the track piece is plastic.... More so with the double-track concrete slab base viaducts I’ll be using for the Shinkansen line on my future layout!
Thanks very much Ewan, I didn't know about that before - that sounds very interesting! Appreciate you sharing mate,
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Lighter fluid hasn't affected my UniTrack.
@@Poliss95 Hmmm.... Interesting. I might give it a try on a small, inconspicuous piece of track.... Since I really don’t wanna melt the Tōhoku Shinkansen!
Absolutely smashed a few myths there then Sam, well done. I am a bit of a newby when it comes to Railway modelling. I did watch a video by Fishplates; a very interesting guy to say the least when it comes to his 'delivery'. He is convinced, as a long serving electrician, that using INOX which is a conductive lubricant is best. However, I take your point that lubricants could reduce grip, which is essential to getting up inclines, even if you have used the magnet powerbase system from DCC Concepts, which uses weighted magnets and metal plates under your track, to assist in climbing inclines; which I discovered that it does. I might consider using a Peco Track Rubber now after this video. I would love you to do a video on comparing INOX, along with other types. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog of Digon Alley Station.
Hello Sam! I personally use Bachmann E-Z Lube track cleaning solution for my small oval of Bachmann E-Z steel track, mainly because it was the cheapest on Amazon at the time and I don’t have a lot of money. It does do a good job of keeping the track clean, however, it leaves a conductive film over the track that is actually quite slippery and oily and so I have to run a loco for 5-10 minutes before it wears off. I usually apply the track cleaner with either Q-Tips or a microfiber cloth or towel, usually every 3-4 days because of heavy usage and, well, it’s steel. I only have three locomotives (all Bachmann Thomas and friends) and 5 pieces of rolling stock (again, all Thomas and Friends), so for me it does a fine job. If you do happen to do a video on track cleaning solutions, I would suggest checking this one out.
Wish you all the best!
Thanks very much for sharing your approach - that sounds good to me, I'll have to look into trying that for myself!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, what a nice well balanced video and thanks for the shout and link. I do recommend 'WD40 Contact Cleaner' now after decades of using IPA. There should be no loss of traction as it evaporates as fast as IPA but it would be an interesting test all the same. Going back to the Peco track rubber I 100% agree and while I've not needed to use it since switching fluids, I fully intend to carry on using it as needed, like you showed, there is no need to scrub the rails, just lightly pass it over a few times and occasionally clean the rubber! As to track damage, I did a video using a microscope that shows in fact, used properly the rubber smooths the rails down (burnishing) Great stuff mate, Mike.
Thanks so much Mike - very glad to have seen your video before I released this one... I'd be really disappointed to have missed the polar-solvent concept! I've ordered some of the WD40 contact cleaner, and may well do some tests on video - I'll be really interested to see how it works! I do like the rubbers - they're a good compromise for me, as I have lots of track and very little time! ;)
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Cheers Sam, I will look out for that.
I hardly ever have to clean my track because using an artists graphite pencil (not a big lump of graphite which is too course) I very lightly glide the pencil along the track maybe 2 strokes for every length treated. The train wheels are never dirty and electrical charge not impaired and nothing is damaged. You can get the pencils at any good artists supply shop for about £8. It’s over a year since I last had to clean the tracks.
That sounds fantastic - I love these interesting ideas, I'll have to try that one!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Again great video Sam. I find using methylated spirit dose a great job of cleaning the tracks aswell as the loco wheels
Nice video Sam did you know that balsa wood works quite well as it is soft and doesnt put scratches on the top surface of the track. I made my own track cleaning car and the cleaning pad is made from balsa wood and the great thing about it is it doesnt leave bits of balsa wood chippings on the track and ballast and you can clean it using either methylated spirits or IPA it works quite well i recomend you try it it has worked for me so im sure it will work for you.
Thanks very much Nicholas, that sounds very interesting, I'll have to look into that!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, great video. Here's my theory for track cleaning. If you look at the real railway, you will notice that the regularly used track is nice and shiny and the least used track is dull and almost rusty by comparison. So to keep your track clean, just keep running trains and that is the best part of the hobby. By the way I only have to clean my track 2or3 times a year. I use electrical contact cleaner on points and a peco track rubber for the rest of the track. Keep up the good work. Cheers Chris.
Get your hands on the old ADE track if you want that effect, those were treated with a special conductive paint and changed color depending on use
To build on a couple of points Sam mentioned, i you're having trouble with a fishplate I find clamping the rails in a vice together and then squeezing them together with pliers a little bit helps.
Then for the track rubber argument, the only time I've ever had a lot of dust generate is when I leave my layout for a while and have to clean the older steel rails which rust to a point were the conductivity is negligible, meaning the voltage simply can't power the locos, even then I just keep a small vacuum cleaner I keep in the loft to go over these areas. If anyone says avoid using a track rubber just don't listen, they're great, an absolute necessity to your railway
Very good idea Dom - if they're not already stuck to the baseboard, that'd be great! Yes rusty rails cause a lot of track rubber crumbs... but I guess there's not much you can do about that!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam. without going through hundreds of comments, you had left off one very easy and quite pleasurable way of cleaning your track: run trains on them. the voltage alone keeps a fair amount of residue off, same with the wheels. one small trainset I have is standard gauge: yes, they tend to run at higher volts (15 to 25) and yes the sheer weight (402E is around 4kg) but even with 90 year old rusty tinplate rails with nails for connectors and not used for months at a time, still runs. keep those wheels rolling :)
That's pretty interesting - I do run trains most days, so maybe that's why my track doesn't really get dirty?
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
White vinegar applied with cotton buds cleans up really dirty track. My nickel silver track had been on a board on its side in a garage for 30 years! Cleaned it all up and ran DCC sound locos on it. Perfect.
Sam,
The Dapol rail cleaner/hoover is only designed to work on 9v maximum. Prolonged running over the 9v will melt a safety device in the unit, that will need replacements from Dapol. Both of mine are DCC fitted now & I've set CV5=185 to give a steady 9v output.
This info, I believe, is in the operator's manual.
In regards to IPA, you can get 70% IPA or rubbing alcohol. I've used to 99% to strip paint & very successfully too. So I'd be wary using it on painted track.
Interesting - I don't have my manual any more, but I'm pretty sure it was rated for 12v... the online manual says 12v at the top but only for DCC, not sure why: www.dapol.co.uk/pdfs/Track-cleaner.pdf
Mine doesn't have the safety device any more - I got fed up of it - as I only use the vacuum, it runs just fine on 12v as it's under very little load!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Hi Sam, Because I'm a DCC person I just remembered the bit about 9v.
Hi Sam.
Just been talking to the person you referred to. He even rants in his replies. He said Peco rubbers are the worst. People have been using them for years with no problems. Then he started on isopropyl alcohol, wow I almost lost the will to live.
Think the bloke needs professional help.
I did use the argument you put forward but did not mention you.
Keep safe mucker.
Pete and Su.
Nice review Sam ,I’ve never had trouble with Peco track rubber ,it really does depend on how you use it ,gently is my way & it works ,but do it often .😊
Hi Sam, as in a previous post, I use 2 triang track cleaning cars, (yes you can get new pads) but i use IPA in the tanks, dont get the eye watering fumes from meths, does a superb job, like the idea of a low powered loco with the Dapol cleaning car, possibly fit loco with a variable resistor, best of both worlds
Thanks for sharing Mark - that sounds good! Be careful though - what about arcs/sparks from the tracks? IPA is super flammable!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Hi Sam, ood point, not had this problem with IPA or Meths, but, worth a warning to people to have a small extinguisher to hand
@@markjarvis1600 The fire brigade say you shouldn't use a fire extinguisher unless you've been trained to use them. That was their official advice when I asked them.
If you are experiencing a power drop between one side of your layout and the other. You could try 1 of 3 things, # 1 solder your rail joints. #2 solder a jumper wire over the joints. #3 bus power threw heavy gauge wire, and connect from bus wire to the track in multiple places around the track. "Cleaning" the track I use 2000-5000 grit polishing sandpaper no residue left behind no scratch marks either. You use that fine of grit you are buffing and not sanding.
I am using spiritus and recently ipa as well. Both seem to work fine. Can not tell the difference between the two yet.
Do have several experiences with track cleaning rubbers. The best up to now is the one of Roco. The worst was the one off Noch. I am going to try the one of Peco as well. Good video! Thank you.
Thanks a lot for sharing - yes I've heard they work equally well too!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
A very interesting post. I know a dealer who regularly uses lighter fluid on his track cloth. It's amazing. Steveo
Was thinking about this video recently because I tried something new; carburetor air intake cleaner. Just sprayed a bit onto a Jay cloth and gave the rails a wipe and it did a brilliant job.
Nice video Sam. Would be nice if you could do more mythbusting with model railways. Your "experiments", older model reviews and themes running sessions really sets you apart from other channel. Looking foward to you getting 100k subscribers soon!
I remember that video you're talking about. When I was watching it I just thought "eh?". Used a Hornby track rubber for donkeys with no problems. I just use a Hoover afterwards to get any bits that have been dropped. Works a treat every time.
With the new larger layout I was thinking of getting he sharg cleaner out of pure laziness. I've used IPA before with no issues too, I'd probably use that in the sharg. I remember watching that video and looking at my 5l tub of 99.9% IPA and just laughing.
The one thing I found absolutely useless was Track Magic. It left a film all over the track which greatly reduced traction up my inclines. Ended up having to go clean it all off again with a track rubber!
Great video, obviously the other one hit a sore spot with you, and no wonder with such bad information.
Cheers, John.
Hi Sam a splendid video indeed. I must admit that track cleaning has been a grey area but I now use a track cleaning car after using the rubber,no problems at all.
Good evening Sam
Another excellent video, I do enjoy the technical explanations you do. This may sound daft but it never occurred to me to look for IPA on eBay!
I will also invest in a fibre pen.
In terms of what I do to clean track, believe it or not I have found the cardboard (the inside face of a cereal box for example) can remove dirty from rail surfaces. As the dirt is visible on the card, you can keep going until no more dirt appears.
Something else I have heard people do (and I am yet to try it myself) is use graphite from pencils, rubbed over areas like points to improve electrical continuity.
Stay well.
Thanks a lot Adam! Yeah go for it - just be careful not to touch the fibres. Yes I've heard of cardboard being used before too - that's one I should try too!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I used to have an infrared camera on loan. I would open my track loops at some point, and run a few amperes of current through them. The IR images would immediately show where there was a high resistance joint that got warmer...
I have tons of those IPA soaked postage stamp sized disinfectant pads .. they are perfect to put under that old and grimy track rubber bar under the track cleaner car, to give it new cleaning power.
And it could be interesting to see if spot welding the fishplates to the track would do any good on permanent layouts. There are small inexpensive spot welders available for DIY lithium battery pack assembly.
I'm not terribly keen on abrasive cleaners, but the Peco one is brilliant for cleaning up track with small nicks on the running surface, or even tiny blobs of solder. It will remove most imperfections and leave a lovely smooth surface. Glass fibre pens work well but leave nasty debris that can stick into your skin as micro splinters. My preferred method is to use the CMX cleaning wagon. It's an American HO product and resembles a bogie tanker wagon, but is made of solid brass - it weighs a ton - with a spring loaded cleaning pad that is pressed against the track. The tanker part holds the cleaning fluid which is then allowed to drip onto the pad via an adjustable outlet so that it is constantly being replenished. I prefer to use automotive brake cleaner as my cleaning fluid; it dries almost instantly and leaves no residue while being harmless to most plastics and very cost effective at around £10 for 5 litres. You need a powerful loco to push this wagon because there is friction between the cleaning pad and the rails, but after three passes you can rub your finger along the rail and you will see no dirt on your finger at all. If you rub before cleaning you will bet a horrible black line on your finger. This wagon cleans only and won't remove any imperfections in the track but it works brilliantly. There is only one downside - mine cost about £150! It's a case of being pleased to have spent more money than you wanted to because the result is really good.
I use electrical contact cleaner for delicate electrical switching gear which works really well. I spray a small amount on a clean rag then 2 wipes ,nice clean track,it does improve the conductivity I have a Peco track rubber which I used to use ,now only occasionally if I have run out of electrical contact cleaner.
I haven’t noticed any lack of adhesion on the part of my locomotives and I have a couple of grades although my locomotives are Athearn,Atlas,Bachmann Diesels which have heavy diecast chassis which gives them good adhesion. I enjoyed watching the video and your fact based approach to it.👍😀😀😀🚂
Thanks for sharing Tony - I'll definitely be getting some!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you Sam for the video. I am not sure you have proved your point.
I think it is fair to say that polishing of metal involves scratching. Sites about the making of jewellery make it clear that polishing involves making smaller and smaller scratches. However, the video by Model Railways Unlimited where new track is viewed under a microscope and the far from perfect surface demonstrated and the subsequent results of using a Peco track rubber are shown is most interesting and perhaps redeems track rubbers.
The website for Cabling Installation Maintenance does not give IPA a ringing endorsement for cleaning fibre optic cable. It is asserted that isn’t a brilliant cleaner and that it does leave a residue. Apparently IPA is hydroscopic, that is it attracts moisture to itself. The headroom in IPA containers as well as its exposure to the air brings about this effect. The suggestion is that once opened our 99.9% IPA will reduce itself to a lower purity over time and stabilises at about 65/35.
I am not sure polar and non polar is pseudoscience, although I am far from being a scientist. The dielectic constant shown in the Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine article dated 5 May 2019 seems to make sense as does the view that the build up of muck is caused by electrical arcing. Consequently, a cleaner with a low dielectic constant looks like a good idea. In the old days I guess we would have used carbon tetrachloride for certain cleaning jobs.
I am starting new with O gauge. Having sprayed the track with sleeper grime, I cleaned the heads with white spirit (mineral spirits in the USA and Canada). I was most unsure about this, but from a non polar point of view it is good. Consequently, I am going to go down the Inox MX3 road. I think I am unlikely to experience traction issues and I won’t have any traction tyres. However, your point that model railways isn’t just about electrical contact was well made and I see the benefits of Inox MX3 to slot car racers may not be directly applicable to model railways. It occurred to me that Peco Power Lube, formerly Electrolube, has been about for years.
Many thanks for sharing all of this Peter - much appreciate it!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Oh dear, Sam, If you look at the piece of brass that you demonstrated with, you will notice that the rubber has scratched the brass, It can do this to your track as well. I now use my track rubbers for smoothing edges of cut timber. I use the track cleaner which is made of brass, and holds fluid.
That's because brass is softer than nickel silver, so you won't get that degree of scratching on tracks!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I was having some trouble with mine, so I eventually just polished it with a rotary tool
Also solder your joints if you aren't going to disassemble 2 tracks
Ahh nice - which attachment did you use? I bet that'd do a good job with ditched track!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, for adding additional power to the other side of the layout do you just plug your wires into the back of the controller? (I’ve got an hm2000) and does it matter what wires you use?
It doesn't matter what wires you use, and yes you could just jam two wires into the controller if you wanted to bodge it. Probably easier to solder two sets of wires together, but whatever works for you! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Yes I’ve been using Peco track rubbers for years to good effect. When the rubbers becomes well worn out I cut them up and use the smaller pieces to clean loco wheels. I find a range of solutions work best. I have a Shark cleaning wagon that uses a chemical soaked pad to clean track. This works well especially as there are some parts of my layout, a large tunnel for instance, that take ages to disassemble to gain access, and only get done once or so a year. I’ll be trying the glass fibre pen for points.
Thanks Gareth - yes they're just the job aren't they? The shark sounds interesting - I'll look into that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Just realised it’s Sharge, dope!
Fascinating stuff !! Be interesting to see your comments on using and cleaning older coated steel track, funnily enough I saw a recent YT vid which pointed out probably the only advantage of said track being that old Triang locos with magnadhesion worked better on plain steel track. Aso a trial of the famous old Traing Hornby track cleaning wagon would be fun, keep up the good work !!
haha I do have some steel track - not a fan of it, and it certainly requires more regular cleaning... but the magnadhesion is definitely a big plus!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
At the end of this video you mentioned that you have power going into your track in multiple locations, but my question is where is the source the power is coming from? I’ve always thought about having an extra pair of wires coming from my controller to go to the other side of my layout, but I’ve always been told that if you have multiple wires attached to a single output, then problems will occur.
Another thing that I have found with continuity in the track is soldering the fishplates to the rails.
I’m glad that you don’t have problems with carpet dander. That’s what caused all the problems I had when I ran trains on my bedroom floor!!
Thank you! Yes it's not ideal - I wouldn't recommend it to others! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
As a "rugroader" I do sometimes experience stuff getting caught in the motion of my locos, although this is probably more from my socks than anything else. So on my temporary floor layouts I try to vacuum the track and surrounding area with my vacuum cleaner every time before a run.
Märklin models with their traction tires will invariably leave a nice deposit of gunk on the track after a while, as well as picking it up, so the track cleaning could be more important here. They also have a nice little cleaning wagon with sprung felt pads which seems to work well enough.
Some people also claim the AC current removes the dirt, but I have no evidence for that.
The ultimate goal is obviously to have a permanent layout up off the floor, keeps them much cleaner and you don't have to risk stepping on your models... now if only I could afford that big house with room for a layout. ;)
PS: I believe I know the video and chap you're refering to.
haha a rugroader, love it! Yes vacuuming is a very good idea - essential for me too! Appreciate you sharing your methods mate,
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I try a variety of methods but trsck rubber and a box of cigarette filters work wonders the cigarette filters are a good size to clean all the rail
Did you ever do a traction comparison between contact cleaner and IPA etc.?
I find using the contact cleaner Inox as some suggest does an amazing job; both in terms of cleaning the track and then cleaning all the wheels of all stock that runs on it afterwards - only issues are that you need to then wipe the tracks regularly as all the dirt comes off the wheels; plus it does reduce the natural friction of the rails and reduces the ability of a loco to haul longer trains.
My conclusion was to use it just to clean wheels of used stock in bulk when I acquire the items, then use ipa to clean it off the tracks again when done.
Totally agree with you Sam about the Peco track rubber and IPA. I use both with no problems. Good to hear proper advice about fishplates too. I would be interested to know about connecting additional sources of power to a layout, to prevent slowdown away from the main controller. Perhaps you have a specific wiring video for that? Thanks, Pete.
Thanks a lot Pete - yeah never had a problem with them yet! Sure, I could do a video on that!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Finally a common sense approach. Really good tip about the fishplates. When I get my layout up and running I will probably trial a strong magnet glued to a wagon to grab any potential debris.
Appreciate it - yeah - as soon as fishplates were on my radar, the number of issues I had went down 90%! Great idea on the magnet - that could work a treat for me too!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you again Sam, you always prove your statements, ie the track rubber on wood, I'm a big believer in the peco track rubbers and like you have used poor ones, but I'm always looking for better and easier ways as I have approximately 240 feet of track to clean and it's a 00 gauge garden railway and I'm not getting any younger, I've tried most cleaners without success and always come back to the peco track rubbers, the only thing I haven't tried is the CMX mobile cleaner, I have had some good feedback from users, have you or any of your colleagues had any experience of this as they are expensive which of course is ok providing they are an equal or give better results than a track rubber, thank you so much again for your informative videos Sam.
Thanks a lot Paul - yeah I am too - I've always sworn by them! Thanks for sharing - I'll definitely look into some of those cleaners!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hey Sam. I've seen the video in question and I have to say I agree with you more on the subject - I've personally been using alcohol and Peco rubber cleaners for nearly 15 years and haven't run into any major issues however I did want to get your thoughts on something. One thing the video claimed is that the rubber can leave deposits on your track which will get on your wheels, I have had this issue on stock that covers a lot of distance each month. I try my best to make sure lubricants stay off the track and 95 percent of the stuff I run has metal wheels. I don't remember having this issue in the past however this issue seems to have started after I started using the Peco branded one, instead of the one I had been using years before. Do you suspect this is due to something else or related? Thanks ~Harrison
Thanks a lot mate - yeah never had a problem with track rubbers either! I think it depends on the rubber - I once bought a Gaugemaster one that was horrible, and left all kinds of gunk on the track. Never had it happen with the Peco one though! You never know though - an experiment/investigation into that might make a good vid?
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam,i must admit i use all those methods you showed.In fact when i first started back into this great hobby,a friend gave me a load of old track which was pretty dirty,so i cleaned it all up using the rubber and IPA.I also purchased a Gaugemaster track cleaning wagon,but as yet i havent got a loco that will pull the blooming thing !
Thanks for sharing Michael - yeah I've never had a problem doing it this way! haha yeah, not easy to pull with the attachments fitted!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains No i meant the Gaugemaster track cleaning wagon with a fitted rubber underneath.
Sam: creates this video about cleaning and maintaining model railways
Me who can’t afford a model railway: interesting
But I must say, your videos keep me sane while I’m quarantined into my house! Thanks 😊 for keeping me cheered up !
Ahh sorry to hear that mate - hope you can get a railway one day! Hope you're staying safe, fingers crossed it'll all be over soon!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains thanks 😊
Hi Sam, The never ending story on track cleaning... Mike's video explains it well why NOT to use IPA. The best cleaner is to run trains very regular so dust has less chance to build up on the rails. And it also is the reason for this hobby, no? To reduce 'arcing' between the pick up wheels and the track just pass a stick of graphite - or use a simple soft carpenters pencil - in some spots on top and inside of the rail and let rolling stock wheels spread the microscopic protective layer. Why: graphite is a very good conductor. I very seldom 'clean' my track since there is less 'black gunk' building up as a result. Passing the vacuum cleaner on the other hand is a must and a good track rubber is always handy to clean after painting & ballasting or smearing the rails. But you know... put two model railroaders together and you will have three different opinions...
Thanks for sharing & greetings.
Thanks a lot Filip -yes I enjoyed Mike's video... it's spurred me on to get some contact cleaner and do some tests with it!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Agree with the graphite for conductivity but traction tyres loose their grip on it (I like minitrix N Gauge for their detail and reliability, but they need tyres for traction due to their light weight)
@@alanwhite6293 I have Ho Trix tank engine 2-6-2 and Mehano diesel Co-Co with traction tires. No problem on my 2% inclines. Only use graphite with 'moderation'. I use a carpenters pencil to apply to the inside of the rails. From time to time I clean the loco wheels and pickups. For the rest just smooth hassle free running. Success!
excellent video Sam, very informative
my old layout i used the good ol' Peco track rubber, never had an issue with it. As for after cleaning I had a triang box van with a felt pad underneath, soaked that is a LITTLE surgical spirit and ran it up and down a few time (it as an end to end layout and that first cleaned the rail heads, then after the spirit evaporated, gave it a quick buff. If I needed to give the rails a real going over, say after a few weeks when it was out of use due to track relaying or the like, a gentle rub over with superfine jewelers quality emery paper (FF grade) would do a fine job.
And a trick i used with fish plates. in places where the track joins were permanent I would secure the plates with a tiny dot of solder to ensure a good connection. In places where I thought I may need to break the track for relaying or base board movement, i would bridge the fishplate with a tiny piece of copper wire soldered to the outside of the rails bridging the fishplate area in such a way that is could be snipped or de-soldered easily. This assured good connectivity and smooth running on all track
Thanks so much for sharing Jon - yeah I do swear by those rubbers! Thanks for sharing your methods, and yes I've heard about track being soldered that way, sounds good to me!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, yet another great video with words to think about. I used an electrical contact rubber for the rails but found it went very quickly. Then went across to 99.9% IPA Which works really well and also on the loco wheels. Have now got a PECO track rubber which I use much as you demonstrated. Fishplates now that one to think about, just need to find a good supplier at good price as they can quickly add up. Thanks again for a great video. I did think about your layout on carpet but it’s the train/railway room. Not living room carpet.... 👍😎
Thanks a lot Marc! Yes I've used 99.9 for a long time (mainly on locos) and do swear by it! That's true, they can be very expensive in large quantities! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
My layout is only small. I use nail varnish remover and a track rubber to clean track, seems to work fine for me, also got a Hornby track cleaner coach
Thanks for sharing! I used nail polish remover for years without any problems too! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Yes Sam do a show on track cleaning products ... Iam looking good one ... Just started running vintage American Flyers S gauge ... I have some nasty sections of rail ... Great broadcast regards from Canada ...
Thank you Allen - I'm thinking about it for sure! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
My line is 45mm gauge but I clean my line with just a wet rag. But because the track cleaning was getting to annoying I have switched to live steam which is a lot better. It worked very well but for a line which is outside and very long and large it takes forever. About 5 minutes per running day which is almost every day of most of the year. It worked very well but also I had to go over it more than just once as its outside and it gets very dirty. To take those 5 minutes to 10. Live steam is a bit more expensive but it’s a lot les of a hassle to set up an in many cases a lot quicker.
Best regards
Sam-(it’s my name)
VVR