Throughly enjoyed the video. Thumbs up. Just in passing, I remember that most of my old TRI-ang steamers had magnets installed in the chassis by the drive wheels. This would help the wheels adhere to the track. Worked quite well actually. Cheers!
Great video Sam! I had a very basic knowledge of how models work but it's great to have it clearly broken down like this with all the different variations - I feel a lot more like I "understand" why certain ways work better than others now! Bravo, a very useful video indeed 👍
Thank you again for an EXCELLENT lesson on how model locomotives actually work. I’ve never known half of the things you mentioned. And by the way, I have always got what your points system is referring to!!
One thing that's bugging me at the moment... People putting grease on the gear-train of Lima diesels. I've bought around 60 of them in the last 10 months and several were bought as non-runners. When you put them on the track they just hummed. A quick dismantling and a clean off of the grease and they are away again running smoothly. Lima gear-trains are made of nylon and they are self-lubricating. I know people put grease on them to try and make them quieter but in the end it either goes hard or some grit gets flicked up of the track, gets caught in the goo and then locks up the motion. When I launch my new channel soon (under a different name) I think I will do a video on Lima locos and how to get them running really nicely, even doing incredibly slow crawls, not that that is my thing. Anyway, keep up the good work :-)
Yeah that's it- when the lubricant gets old, it certainly harms performance! I do use a small amount on my Lima locos... because I service them every year, I never have any problems! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The old Hornby 110 DMU's use ringfield motors I think there is a video on RUclips talking about this issue as I had the same issue with one of my old hornby diesel locomotives.
My 110 stuck like hell but didn't catch fire. Fun Fact :- 110's catching fire was true in real life! At least until they improved the insulation, but even then, Hammerton Street calling them the "Greasy Grills" suggests that there were a few more fires than the norm........:-)
Probably shorted quite badly. Make sure there is no carbon buildup between the slots on the commutator, wheels are clean, commutator is clean, fresh lubricant, etc. Normally you can immediately see what is wrong with it when you open it up - most likely a blackish sooty area if it had been catching fire, so you should get an idea of what it is pretty soon!
@@highbrookendmodelrailway Yeah I've had a look and it's just in really poor condition. If I can get the time and I can probably get it going again. Thanks for your suggestions 🙂
I love learning stuff like this, it's amazing how much goes into these little models! I'd love to see how you would build an engine from the ground up.
That was excellent. A very clear, and concise 'idiot proof' guide to the inner workings of model trains. Loved your Triang engine collection, by the way. Some of them took me back! Nice one.
As an FYI, I have two Marklin HO locomotives that uses brushless motors, refered to as a C-Sine motor. Both motors run exceptionally smoothly (they are my best running models); however, they require aditional motor driver electronics (as well as a DCC decoder) to operate the motor. The c-sine motor has now been out of production for a few years now, which is understandable since despite the motors amazing performance, it is a nightmare for maintenance.
Yeah I've heard about these - HO too? Very impressive! Yes that's right - lots of circuitry needed to drive them, which no doubt is deeply reflected in the price! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very well researched and presented lecture. Really enjoyed it. I just wish this had come out 15-20 years ago, so I could do a bit of a better job fixing and repairing my locos when I was younger. A lot of the time I was just flying blind, however now I understand how motors and mechanisms work, and I have had quite a bit of experience and success with repairing models (to the point where one of my endeavours got published in Australian Model Railway Magazine). Thank you for putting this together, and hopefully it will be of great assistance to those new at this. I personally think fixing and repairing models, and getting them running again is just as satisfying as kit building, and scenery.
Many thanks Stephen, really glad you enjoyed this one! I've been there too mate - quite a few blind repair jobs from me in the past too! I agree with you - easily my favourite aspect of the hobby! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Awesome video I am so glad you did this kind of video. It was very informative and I learned a lot. I wish you had done this sooner I would have saved a motor. Thanks for this kind of video keep them coming.
Really good video Sam, I agree with everything you have said. Good advice for people who want to know how things work, without having to listen to my complex ramblings! ;) Now, speaking of complex ramblings, if anyone would like to know a bit more on Brushed DC Motor operation, then this is for you: Power is applied onto the brushes of the motor, which then makes contact to 2 of the commutator plates. This then creates a circuit from one commutator plate, through a winding of the motor (called an electromagnet - an electromagnet is basically a magnet which can be turned on and off by passing current through windings or turns of wire) and then eventually out the other side of the winding and returns through the brush, through the pickups to the track. The winding creates a magnetic field that is aligned with the position of the brushes (for example N at the left brush and S at the right). Then, the permanent magnet that is located within the motor creates a magnetic field too (for example N at the left brush and S at the right). Because N want to align with the permanent magnet's S pole, and S wants to align with the permanent magnet's N pole, the armature starts to rotate as it wants to align itself with the magnetic fields of the permanent magnet, so it turns as N is attracted to the permanent magnet's S pole, and pulls the motor round as it wants to align. But, because the brushes are now connecting to different commutator plates (or contacts) the N & S poles are still being generated in the same position next to each of the brushes, causing the armature to realign itself with the permanent magnet's magnetic fields, and the cycle keeps continuing as the magnetic fields pull the armateur around as they keep trying to align with each other. This causes a continuous rotating motion, and makes the motor spin continuously, as the magnetic fields from the windings of the motor, created by applying power to 2 commutator contacts, keep trying to realign themselves with the magnetic fields of the permanent magnet. Thanks for reading folks, hope this helps, and sorry to Sam for clogging his comments with an oversized message! :D
You can buy a new adhesion system from DCC concepts know as powerbase. Its designed to aid trains up slopes without wheel slip as it uses magnets under the train (or in the chassis) and metal strips under the track.
@@bentullett6068 you can but judging from Chadwick model railways experience its rubbish in comparison to the old Triang steel rail/magnadhesion system.
But Tri-ang Magnahesion relied on using their steel railed track, which tarnished a lot and went rusty. I'm not sure modern nickel-silver based rails are that magnetic, if at all, but looks much nicer and importantly, has superior electrical conductivity.
Im a Model locomotive engineer and I own a Diesel used to own A steam locomotive, have some rolling stock all American. I am also an expert in electrics so i can Make anything from smoke units to DC/DCC motors function and ill also Add alternator to power Smoke units and lamps You should review a F7 Alpha and Beta units
Ooh really?! I've always found these to be epic runners! Mine had a faulty circuit board though, so worth checking... in what was does yours not run well? Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Driving all the axles makes quartering issues less critical on a steamer. Even a minuscule quartering error can cause the rods to bind or make the drivers wobble.
Yes that's a very good point actually - though most manufacturers are able to quarter wheel-sets accurately these days... though don't hold your breath of course! ;D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Many thanks! I use silicon grease and petroleum jelly - you can find them readily on Amazon! I've been using them both for over a year now, no issues so far! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I've been curious about something for a little while now. Is there anyone out there who prefers their locomotive to have less pulling power? Having the gearing ratios set for realistic speeds is something that I think most, if not all enthusiasts like (not sure why manufacturers so frequently use such high speed gearing), but does that same concept apply to getting a realistic amount of hauling capability? Do some people prefer their locomotives to slip and struggle when the loads get too heavy? From a pure performance perspective, having more grip and power can only be a good thing, so that you can pull practically any load you want at any speed you want, hence why we see things like hidden weights and traction tires. That said, I can certainly see some appeal to a loss of traction, given that everything's dialed in correctly. A small locomotive slipping and struggling up a bank is the first thought that comes to mind. But it can potentially damage the loco and track as well. Sam's much more of an expert on models than I am, but I would imagine that wheelslip or excessive load on the motor can cause serious damage. Then you have the nuances of a lack of grip vs a lack of power. I certainly think just slipping would cause a lot less damage than overloading the motor, but there may be something I'm overlooking. It's not quite like on a real locomotive where wheelslip can cause the motion to catastrophically fail, but I could see it potentially damaging the valvegear. If anyone has any insights on this, I'd be very interested in discussing it.
On the motors part you missed out ringfield motors that all of the old Hornby and Lima models used. I don't know if these are classed as a three pole motor though?
the poles are on the armature, so the rather sad ringfields on the Margate hornby and Lima are definitely 3 pole. on quality ringfields such as hornby dublo and Fleischmann still 3 pole but work as they were designed and intended to do
The Class 01s,Class 02s,Class 03s,Class 04s,Class 05s,Class 06s,Class 07s and Class 14s also have Coupling Rods,The Class 09s,Class 10s,Class 11s,Class 12s and the Class 13s are different versions of the Class 08
Lindberg (more known for plastic models) made a locomotive in the 60s and it's powered by a spring belt! Imagine, a long tightly-wound spring looped around to form a stretchy metal band...it's very odd.
I can tell you a thing or two about belt drive: I have a Roco model Crocodile loco and it uses belt drives. They used to slip in the first speed notch so I got some traction tyres from Marklin, they produce a very small diameter one (about 5 mm) for one of their models. I put one of these traction tyres on each of the four brass pulley wheels of the loco (two on the motor and two on the drive bogies) and it solved the problem. Also about a year ago these drive belts failed due to old age and so I had to get replacements. The most expensive option was to get them as Roco spare parts, I bought them from a local seal & gasket importer for about a quarter of the price.
Very well put together and well presented explanation Sam. Hopefully some should find it useful. You should try and cover more subjects even make a series of it.
Superb video, very well presented and explained. Thanks for showing pros and cons as well. Keep doing these engineering videos, every day is a school day :-)
Couplers, that's what you should be doing a programme about. Tension lock, kadees, E-Z couplers, positives and negatives. Now that almost every loco coach and wagon has an NEM pocket should we not all be moving to something better than the horrible tension lock, somethimg magnetically operable like bachmann or the more robust Kadee? Ken
I’ve learned this from experience Simply because of replacing a bachmann Thomas running board lol Rip bachmann Thomas 2018-2021 Good news! I now use him as a name-board engine, like in the intros of the series So basically a display piece But he’s still happy :) I think
Sam should take one of his Thomas The Tank Engines and power it with a model rocket motor. That ought to over come those friction and pick up problems. You know you want to do it Sam. Plus you'll gain experience in repairing plasterboard fixing the hole left behind where the Thomas jets through the wall of your house..
It would still work exactly the same - electrical motors are not affected by vacuum - the power tools astronauts use to do work in space are electrically powered. Only difference being that you probably wouldn't be able to hear it running.
haha still would be pretty interesting though - and agreed with Ian, heat dissipation may be interesting to observe... though without air resistance, the load on the motor should be less! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Amazing video! You did a terrific job explaining everything accurately in detail and this will hopefully help more people understand how these things work. Only one thought I had, you mentioned that some manufacturers will decide to drive every wheel on a steam locomotive with a gear instead of just using the drivers and while it is true that using this method causes more friction, a major advantage of it is that there is less risk of binding. The drivers are under a lot more stress without gears so it makes it a lot easier for one of the wheels to slip out of place and become un-quartered. I've noticed a lot of modern manufacturers seem to be going with all geared wheels, such as Rapido Trains Inc with their Royal Hudson models. This is still an absolutely terrific video, I just wanted to share my thoughts on that. All the best ~Harrison
Thanks very much mate, really glad you liked it! Yes that's a good point - with a single geared axle, quartering becomes much more crucial - thanks for sharing! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I personally use silicon grease for gears (though make sure it's not too thick). I use petroleum jelly for the conductive lubricant, but it's important it doesn't come into contact with plastic! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You forgot to mention another disadvantage of coreless motors is that without the heavier iron core the locomotive can stop and go quickly which is unrealistic, I am assuming manufactures can overcome this with some heavy flywheels. Ps, As for the friction part of your video, have you ever come across an HO engine that uses ball bearings? I've never heard or seen one that has. PsPs. I'm not 100% certain on this but didn't the vintage Athearns use iron wheels, I have about a dozen of them and all the wheels are a gray metal (iron I assume) where as the newer engines use steel? I know one thing for sure is those iron wheels almost never get dirty, where as the new steel ones I'm having to clean the blackish crap that sticks to them quite regularly.
Informative, fascinating, and VERY. VERY INTERESTING. Thank you Sam i enjoyed this video immensely. I noticed you tried very hard not to mention B******N .🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🐖🚄🚅
I still disagree that bearing pickup is inferior. The plastic axle if produced with good plastic (such as delrin) and not cheap nylon like Bachmann does should last a while. Wipers wear out much faster than bearings and also are a lot more flimsier. In my experience using non-conductive lubes on bearings have no noticeable effect on performance, simply due to the sheer amount of additional surface area of bearings to axles vs wipers to flanges, and the electrical contact has no issue passing through the almost atom-level thin amount of lubricant. Maybe its a US vs UK thing but bearing pickup is on 90% of all non-trainset level steam locomotives, including proto 2000, MTH, BLI, and all brass locos. Also, I still dont think you're giving coreless motors enough credit, but that's more personal experiences. Cooling is not an issue with all the diecast chassis frame around it, and a _SIMILAR SIZED_ coreless motor has much better torque, slow speed, smoothness, etc. over a can motor. Although I have seen how your coreless motor engines perform, so I do understand where you're coming from. They must be sourcing their motors from cheap places or something. They also appear to be using much smaller motors. I'll take a faulhaber or maxon coreless motor over a sagami or mashima can motor any day. I fully agree with you other points, especially the traction tires. Overall all nice video
That's fair enough Charles - there are definitely some advantages with the bearing pickups, not denying that! That's true too - the better quality coreless motors I've seen definitely do run very well! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam Thanks for the reply regarding the fact that Crampton locomotives would make avery interesting subject for modelling. Please take a look at the Pearson Locos of the Bristol and Exeter railway with their stunning 9ft !! driving wheels. This would surely challenge Hornby en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bristol_and_Exeter_Railway_4-2-4T_locomotives
Thank you so much. So, when looking to buy locos I want 5 pole skew wound with a flywheel, wheel bearings and wiper pickups. I think I may be asking too much, but it would be nice.
Bit late to this video, well worth watching- I'll admit to being coreless ignorant! I'm surprised you didn't mention axle articulation or sprung and compensated chassis as axle movement can make or break a models running ability on undulations or curves - Oxford's radial tank for example.
No problem mate - yeah they were pretty new to me until a few years ago! Yeah that's true, maybe that would have made a good section! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam, I have an older triang model (1969) and it’s wheel flanges are too tall for modern railway track. Can you please talk about how this change happened and if there is anything that can be done to fix older models to run in modern tracks.
Thanks Jeff! Sure, they decided to make track more realistic, and so the larger flanged locos were no longer compatible! I did grind some of mine down, and it worked a treat... but it's a bit bodgy! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam Once again an amazing video and I learnt some excellent tips. This was an extremely knowledgeable video, packed with information and delivered with notable enthusiasm and it is obvious that your personal information, research and content are extremely comprehensive. You are dealing with a whole range of capabilities regarding a person’s level and ability to process information and speaking as a qualified teacher, the delivery was very fast. You may need to slow your delivery as the modelling community has a very broad range of ages, attention and ability to process content. Weell Done. Can't wait for more. Thanks
Do not apologise as this was meant only as constructive criticism. A slight slowing of delivery will reap rewards. You have massive content for someone of you age, it is your enthusiasm that is pulling the community in.
A good mechanism: as few moving parts as is physically possible while getting the job done - and each part being of the highest possible quality and precision. A bad mechanism: Anything else. Also Sam, speaking of power pickup - review a Märklin starter set! You must give your take on the 3-rail system, german engineering and... traction tire policy. ;)
@@muir8009 It depends how you choose to interpret what I wrote. You could say what I mean is _no unessecery parts,_ then. If you can get away with having 2 gears instead of 3 it's one less point of friction and one less part that will wear. Also, it's one less part that will cost money.
@@JonatanGronoset I like :) I had a gaiety pannier tank which had the optional factory 7 pole motor and the fairly serious 40:1 gearing (generally considerably lower than today's models) and my dublo 3 pole standard 9:1 gearing was actually a better low speed runner, and a lot less noisy. I got what you were saying in all honesty, and of course Marklin: brilliant. I'm just stirring with the old what makes a good quality mechanism. funnily enough I still think that 3 rail is still by far the best for practical operational running and still gets far to much grief solely because it's 3 rail. traction tyres we won't mention... :)
Yep I'd agree with that - the simpler the better really! I'd love to try the 3 rail system some time - it's always interested me! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains funnily enough I think a lot of people don't realise that 2 rail was first and 3 rail proved so reliable and useful that 2 rail was dropped. 3 rail has got an undeserved bad rap over the last many decades. yes, of course the third rail is unrealistic (as are underlength platforms? dual lane roads that in real life wouldn't even qualify as a car park? st Ives could fit 12 coach trains and have plenty of room to spare etc etc) but 3 rail is so easy to wire. instead of the oval you can have a dogbone and connect both east and westbound tracks at station yards with zero polarity issues. blocks so easy: isolate the central rail with one wire to each section. common return so pretty much just one wire from an outer rail and that's it. and the tracks need considerably less cleaning... :)
Thank you for giving us the tuition we need to get decent trains and locomotives!! I had never thought about how model trains actually work!! I understood it as a boy because I learned it from using Scalextric cars and Hornby trains!!
You can use it to lubricate electrical contacts, but I wouldn't use it for lubricating - it's a bit too thick, and it can damage plastics! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, a very informative video. I have a question relating to the strain on a motor. I have seen layouts where there are inclines and also helixes. If the locomotive is pulling to much weight what damage can it do to the motor, is it possible to burn out the motor. Regards Greg
Thanks a lot Greg! Yes absolutely - some motors can be damaged by extended overloading. The greater the load, the more current the motor draws, and the more heat this produces. Badly/cheaply designed motors can definitely fail if they overheat! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Really enjoyed that Sam, very interesting and informative. I didn’t know most of the terms you explained regarding motors so I have learnt something today. Would also be interested in learning more about Feedback 👍
A very good video, indeed, Sam! This morning I cleaned the wheels on a 20 year old HO Kato NW-2 switcher/shunter using a small cloth saturated with alcohol between a powered section of track and each truck/bogie (sequentially, of course, so power would get to the motor!). I'd be interested to know how you clean your loco wheels and your track. Also, since much of your track is on a rug, do you have a problem picking up fuzzies? Cheers from Wisconsin.
Andrew Palm It can be quite challenging especially when the gears are not covered from bottom side. They tend to wind up the hairs, very common on carpet floor. You have to dissasemble the engine and with fine tweezers you can remove the hairs.
Thanks a lot for sharing Andrew! I did do a video on this some years ago - if you search for samstrains wheel cleaning, you should find my approach! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Forgive my unknowing, but will the track shock you when plugged in? I want to get into model railways but Just worried about getting one and my son touching the track and getting a shock..
@@SamsTrains amazing thank you! Been watching through your videos for the last couple of hours, some really good advice you've given! Really appreciate it and will definitely put it to use!
OK, clever clogs. Since you know more about steam engine motors than I ever will, because I hardly ever think about what sort is inside my steamies, here's a question from me you might be a bit scared to answer. Be brave, my good fellow. On three separate occasions, you experienced what I would call a motor explosion. First, your class 58 diesel suffered an exploding motor. Second, poor little Terrier Whitechapel suffered the same. Third, one of the 14xx tank engines was in the same war. What could cause an engine's motor to blow up, apart from the fact it might be old and worn?
@@highbrookendmodelrailway Thanks, but I asked Sam, not you. Kindly remember, my good fellow, it's not nice to answer before Sam has a chance to get a word in. I'm not telling you off or criticising, but please, next time let Sam answer before you speak.
haha good question - usually it's overheating or oil on the commutator! Sometimes the motor brushes can crumble away, and jam up the motor too! Though it's difficult to work out exactly what happened after a motor has fried! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Percy Rebecca here. I have something to ask you! I’m going to be hitting 6 Years on RUclips and I want to make a small short and I was wondering if you would like to voice the Narrator? It’s been a while since you’ve been in one of my shorts so let me know if you would like to. Also great video! Kind Regards Percy Rebecca 🥰🥰🥰
Interesting video, thank you. You may not remember Hornby's solution to wheel-to-rail friction. Yes, they used traction tyres, but, in the late 60s and early 70s they also made a big thing of Magnadhesion which was fitted to some locos. It sounded good and technical. Essentially though, the locomotive wheels were magnetised so that - well, they were magnets.
Sam could you do a series where you look at cool accessories e.g. smoke generators or working lamps? I think it is a good idea
Haven't seen much Sheute towers in the reviews...
Great idea! I'd love to try that - thanks for the suggestion! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I’d certainly enjoy this, I’d love to see DC locomotive lamps that fit on the lamp irons
You
That's an amazing idea wow
I learned more about engineering from Sam than in school.
Makes sense
True
@@name5528 JOE Keenan age 72 l have been into model trains for 3 year's it was a very informative video. 👍
Same
haha very glad to hear that, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Giving a loco traction tyres is like a coach giving their student drugs to make up for the fact they didn’t train them.
haha exactly, lol! ;D
🤔🤔🤔
Would that make sanding the rails the equivalent of snorting coke❓😉
Wow! Never thought of it like that.
Throughly enjoyed the video. Thumbs up. Just in passing, I remember that most of my old TRI-ang steamers had magnets installed in the chassis by the drive wheels. This would help the wheels adhere to the track. Worked quite well actually. Cheers!
Thanks a lot Jet! Yes that's right, it's a wonderful idea - sadly no longer an option with nickel-silver track though! :(
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very useful and informative video. I have taken quite a few of my locos apart and fixed them. I enjoy discovering how they work..
Thanks a lot Paul - me too - it's great fun isn't it? :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam! I had a very basic knowledge of how models work but it's great to have it clearly broken down like this with all the different variations - I feel a lot more like I "understand" why certain ways work better than others now! Bravo, a very useful video indeed 👍
Thanks so much - really glad to hear this is some use to you! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you again for an EXCELLENT lesson on how model locomotives actually work. I’ve never known half of the things you mentioned. And by the way, I have always got what your points system is referring to!!
Thank you! Really glad you learned something too! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Not only interesting, but entertaining as well!! Well done Sam!!
One thing that's bugging me at the moment... People putting grease on the gear-train of Lima diesels. I've bought around 60 of them in the last 10 months and several were bought as non-runners. When you put them on the track they just hummed. A quick dismantling and a clean off of the grease and they are away again running smoothly. Lima gear-trains are made of nylon and they are self-lubricating. I know people put grease on them to try and make them quieter but in the end it either goes hard or some grit gets flicked up of the track, gets caught in the goo and then locks up the motion. When I launch my new channel soon (under a different name) I think I will do a video on Lima locos and how to get them running really nicely, even doing incredibly slow crawls, not that that is my thing. Anyway, keep up the good work :-)
Bindon Rail Less lubrication is always better
Yeah that's it- when the lubricant gets old, it certainly harms performance! I do use a small amount on my Lima locos... because I service them every year, I never have any problems!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
That's my favorite looking at the mechanism how it works a the gearbox and a motor that's my most favorite
Thank you! I really love looking at these mechs too! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I can't speak for all model trains but my old Hornby 110 DMU works by catching fire when voltage is applied. Should probably see to that
The old Hornby 110 DMU's use ringfield motors I think there is a video on RUclips talking about this issue as I had the same issue with one of my old hornby diesel locomotives.
My 110 stuck like hell but didn't catch fire. Fun Fact :- 110's catching fire was true in real life! At least until they improved the insulation, but even then, Hammerton Street calling them the "Greasy Grills" suggests that there were a few more fires than the norm........:-)
Probably shorted quite badly.
Make sure there is no carbon buildup between the slots on the commutator, wheels are clean, commutator is clean, fresh lubricant, etc.
Normally you can immediately see what is wrong with it when you open it up - most likely a blackish sooty area if it had been catching fire, so you should get an idea of what it is pretty soon!
@@highbrookendmodelrailway Yeah I've had a look and it's just in really poor condition. If I can get the time and I can probably get it going again. Thanks for your suggestions 🙂
@@blisseyran-dom6822 You're most welcome 👍☺️.
I love learning stuff like this, it's amazing how much goes into these little models!
I'd love to see how you would build an engine from the ground up.
Thank you! Yeah they are amazing little machines really! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
That was excellent. A very clear, and concise 'idiot proof' guide to the inner workings of model trains. Loved your Triang engine collection, by the way. Some of them took me back! Nice one.
Many thanks Brian, really glad you liked it! Yeah I love those tri-ang locos too - bullet proof, even today!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
This must be very helpful to your younger viewers, not to mention me. 😄 Make a video on feedback controllers.
haha thanks a lot! Great idea - I could definitely look into a feedback video! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam can you do the same explainer with pros and cons for the different types of controllers? DC, feedback (whatever that is) and PWM
Great idea Dave, I could look into doing that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
As an FYI, I have two Marklin HO locomotives that uses brushless motors, refered to as a C-Sine motor. Both motors run exceptionally smoothly (they are my best running models); however, they require aditional motor driver electronics (as well as a DCC decoder) to operate the motor. The c-sine motor has now been out of production for a few years now, which is understandable since despite the motors amazing performance, it is a nightmare for maintenance.
Yeah I've heard about these - HO too? Very impressive! Yes that's right - lots of circuitry needed to drive them, which no doubt is deeply reflected in the price!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Oh, wow! Reminds me of the TTTE S1-12 Behind the Scenes
Very well researched and presented lecture. Really enjoyed it. I just wish this had come out 15-20 years ago, so I could do a bit of a better job fixing and repairing my locos when I was younger. A lot of the time I was just flying blind, however now I understand how motors and mechanisms work, and I have had quite a bit of experience and success with repairing models (to the point where one of my endeavours got published in Australian Model Railway Magazine). Thank you for putting this together, and hopefully it will be of great assistance to those new at this. I personally think fixing and repairing models, and getting them running again is just as satisfying as kit building, and scenery.
Many thanks Stephen, really glad you enjoyed this one! I've been there too mate - quite a few blind repair jobs from me in the past too! I agree with you - easily my favourite aspect of the hobby!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
could you maybe do a video on how you store your model trains
haha it'd be an easy video - they're just sitting on shelves! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank You Sam. Most informative
Thanks a lot David, really glad you thought so! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Awesome video I am so glad you did this kind of video. It was very informative and I learned a lot. I wish you had done this sooner I would have saved a motor. Thanks for this kind of video keep them coming.
Thanks very much Louis, really glad you liked it! Hope it helps you in the future mate,
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Really good video Sam, I agree with everything you have said. Good advice for people who want to know how things work, without having to listen to my complex ramblings! ;)
Now, speaking of complex ramblings, if anyone would like to know a bit more on Brushed DC Motor operation, then this is for you:
Power is applied onto the brushes of the motor, which then makes contact to 2 of the commutator plates. This then creates a circuit from one commutator plate, through a winding of the motor (called an electromagnet - an electromagnet is basically a magnet which can be turned on and off by passing current through windings or turns of wire) and then eventually out the other side of the winding and returns through the brush, through the pickups to the track.
The winding creates a magnetic field that is aligned with the position of the brushes (for example N at the left brush and S at the right). Then, the permanent magnet that is located within the motor creates a magnetic field too (for example N at the left brush and S at the right). Because N want to align with the permanent magnet's S pole, and S wants to align with the permanent magnet's N pole, the armature starts to rotate as it wants to align itself with the magnetic fields of the permanent magnet, so it turns as N is attracted to the permanent magnet's S pole, and pulls the motor round as it wants to align.
But, because the brushes are now connecting to different commutator plates (or contacts) the N & S poles are still being generated in the same position next to each of the brushes, causing the armature to realign itself with the permanent magnet's magnetic fields, and the cycle keeps continuing as the magnetic fields pull the armateur around as they keep trying to align with each other.
This causes a continuous rotating motion, and makes the motor spin continuously, as the magnetic fields from the windings of the motor, created by applying power to 2 commutator contacts, keep trying to realign themselves with the magnetic fields of the permanent magnet.
Thanks for reading folks, hope this helps, and sorry to Sam for clogging his comments with an oversized message! :D
Many thanks my friend! Appreciate the extra info on the motors too, great explanation for commutation! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
How about The old Triang Hornby Magnahesion?
You can buy a new adhesion system from DCC concepts know as powerbase. Its designed to aid trains up slopes without wheel slip as it uses magnets under the train (or in the chassis) and metal strips under the track.
@@bentullett6068 you can but judging from Chadwick model railways experience its rubbish in comparison to the old Triang steel rail/magnadhesion system.
@@richardsinger01 If I’m not mistaken he wasn’t entirely convinced by the Bullfrog Snot solution either.
Yeah that's a subject I didn't cover - it's very interesting too!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
But Tri-ang Magnahesion relied on using their steel railed track, which tarnished a lot and went rusty. I'm not sure modern nickel-silver based rails are that magnetic, if at all, but looks much nicer and importantly, has superior electrical conductivity.
Oh!!! So *THAT'S* What the poll motors are! Huh! I just learned something new!
haha yep - there you go! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I've learnt a lot watching this video Sam. Thank you
That's great Peter, glad to hear that!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great interesting video Sam! Funny thing im learning is whenever ive bought a used poor runner,over oiling always seems to be a lot of the problems.
Many thanks Michael - you're right - too much lubricant can do more harm than good!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very useful and interesting to find all of this out as I don't really think about these thing when I buy a loco
Thanks a lot Lewis, glad this was interesting for you mate! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Im a Model locomotive engineer and I own a Diesel used to own A steam locomotive, have some rolling stock all American. I am also an expert in electrics so i can Make anything from smoke units to DC/DCC motors function and ill also Add alternator to power Smoke units and lamps
You should review a F7 Alpha and Beta units
Ahh finally!
Funny how the B12 loco in the thumbnail is the same model I have that doesn't run well 😂 I'd love to know why
Ooh really?! I've always found these to be epic runners! Mine had a faulty circuit board though, so worth checking... in what was does yours not run well?
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Driving all the axles makes quartering issues less critical on a steamer. Even a minuscule quartering error can cause the rods to bind or make the drivers wobble.
Yes that's a very good point actually - though most manufacturers are able to quarter wheel-sets accurately these days... though don't hold your breath of course! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thanks for this helpful video, could you give links to the oils and greases you recommend please?
Many thanks! I use silicon grease and petroleum jelly - you can find them readily on Amazon! I've been using them both for over a year now, no issues so far!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam how do you work out how much traction effort Locos have? Many of your videos mention the torque but not how to measure it.
Good question! I could do a video on that - it was quite involved working it all out! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great subject this Sam and who better to explain it than you keep it up
Thanks so much Harry, appreciate it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
That is very true,Who else could explain it better that Sam!
I ounce had a train explode. It was a 1964 tri ang princess Elizabeth.
I've been curious about something for a little while now. Is there anyone out there who prefers their locomotive to have less pulling power?
Having the gearing ratios set for realistic speeds is something that I think most, if not all enthusiasts like (not sure why manufacturers so frequently use such high speed gearing), but does that same concept apply to getting a realistic amount of hauling capability?
Do some people prefer their locomotives to slip and struggle when the loads get too heavy? From a pure performance perspective, having more grip and power can only be a good thing, so that you can pull practically any load you want at any speed you want, hence why we see things like hidden weights and traction tires.
That said, I can certainly see some appeal to a loss of traction, given that everything's dialed in correctly. A small locomotive slipping and struggling up a bank is the first thought that comes to mind.
But it can potentially damage the loco and track as well. Sam's much more of an expert on models than I am, but I would imagine that wheelslip or excessive load on the motor can cause serious damage.
Then you have the nuances of a lack of grip vs a lack of power. I certainly think just slipping would cause a lot less damage than overloading the motor, but there may be something I'm overlooking. It's not quite like on a real locomotive where wheelslip can cause the motion to catastrophically fail, but I could see it potentially damaging the valvegear.
If anyone has any insights on this, I'd be very interested in discussing it.
On the motors part you missed out ringfield motors that all of the old Hornby and Lima models used. I don't know if these are classed as a three pole motor though?
the poles are on the armature, so the rather sad ringfields on the Margate hornby and Lima are definitely 3 pole. on quality ringfields such as hornby dublo and Fleischmann still 3 pole but work as they were designed and intended to do
Yes that's true, though they fit into the 3 pole motor category, they're just arranged a bit differently!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam’s trains “diesels don’t have coupling rods”
Class 08 *sobs manically*
Diesel locomotives built with coupling rods: *I BEG YOUR PARDON?!*
What About The Class 07 Diesels? (Salty's Basis)
The Class 01s,Class 02s,Class 03s,Class 04s,Class 05s,Class 06s,Class 07s and Class 14s also have Coupling Rods,The Class 09s,Class 10s,Class 11s,Class 12s and the Class 13s are different versions of the Class 08
Basically most diesel shunters and the Fell Diesel.
haha that's a good point... I was talking about larger diesels of course! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
you were saying about the 3 pole motor, they can be serviced unlike the can motors.
Some can, some can't! You can service a can motor, but it's not recommended!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
In the 1950's into the 1960's Athearn trains used elastic bands as belts to power some locomotives.
Lindberg (more known for plastic models) made a locomotive in the 60s and it's powered by a spring belt! Imagine, a long tightly-wound spring looped around to form a stretchy metal band...it's very odd.
Yeah I've seen some like that - I have a model up for review that uses belts actually!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I can tell you a thing or two about belt drive: I have a Roco model Crocodile loco and it uses belt drives. They used to slip in the first speed notch so I got some traction tyres from Marklin, they produce a very small diameter one (about 5 mm) for one of their models. I put one of these traction tyres on each of the four brass pulley wheels of the loco (two on the motor and two on the drive bogies) and it solved the problem.
Also about a year ago these drive belts failed due to old age and so I had to get replacements. The most expensive option was to get them as Roco spare parts, I bought them from a local seal & gasket importer for about a quarter of the price.
A good runner does not make you want to rip your hair out and throw it across the room and out of the window
Can you do what makes a good pice of rolling stock
Great video!!😀
Interesting idea James, I'll think about that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I always enjoy learning about how model trains work. I love it how you talk about how the mechanics work. Great video Sam
Thanks very much mate, lovely to hear that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
interesting and informative, thank you :o
Thank you! :D
you should made a video about decoders dcc only and dcc with tts sound
Great idea! I have never done that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very well put together and well presented explanation Sam. Hopefully some should find it useful. You should try and cover more subjects even make a series of it.
Many thanks Rob - I hope so!! If this does well, I may do more! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Superb video, very well presented and explained. Thanks for showing pros and cons as well.
Keep doing these engineering videos, every day is a school day :-)
Thanks very much, really glad you liked this, haha! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
THANK GOD! I NEEDED THIS! THANK YOU SO MUCH SAM! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
haha thanks so much - glad it was good for you! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Couplers, that's what you should be doing a programme about. Tension lock, kadees, E-Z couplers, positives and negatives. Now that almost every loco coach and wagon has an NEM pocket should we not all be moving to something better than the horrible tension lock, somethimg magnetically operable like bachmann or the more robust Kadee?
Ken
Great idea Ken, I think that's one I should definitely look at doing!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
A fascinating and useful video same, I'm sure more of these instruction videos would be appreciated by your viewers...Bob
Many thanks Robert, I'll see what else I can do!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I’ve learned this from experience
Simply because of replacing a bachmann Thomas running board lol
Rip bachmann Thomas 2018-2021
Good news!
I now use him as a name-board engine, like in the intros of the series
So basically a display piece
But he’s still happy :)
I think
haha sorry to hear that, lol!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam learnt a lot thanks 👍🏻
Thanks a lot Jamie! :D
Sam should take one of his Thomas The Tank Engines and power it with a model rocket motor. That ought to over come
those friction and pick up problems.
You know you want to do it Sam. Plus you'll gain experience in repairing plasterboard fixing the hole left behind where the
Thomas jets through the wall of your house..
haha that'd be epic - maybe I will try one day!! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
How about running a model train in a vacuum to see what the lack of air does.
It would still work exactly the same - electrical motors are not affected by vacuum - the power tools astronauts use to do work in space are electrically powered. Only difference being that you probably wouldn't be able to hear it running.
I suspect heat would build up but there’d be no oxidation.
haha still would be pretty interesting though - and agreed with Ian, heat dissipation may be interesting to observe... though without air resistance, the load on the motor should be less!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam very informative. You mentioned having a video on feedback controllers would love a video on those.
Many thanks Matt - sure, I'll look into doing that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You should do a video on explaining on how much weight or diecast a locomotive should have to get a good score or be a good runner, or etc..
Great idea Toby, thanks for that one! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Amazing video! You did a terrific job explaining everything accurately in detail and this will hopefully help more people understand how these things work. Only one thought I had, you mentioned that some manufacturers will decide to drive every wheel on a steam locomotive with a gear instead of just using the drivers and while it is true that using this method causes more friction, a major advantage of it is that there is less risk of binding. The drivers are under a lot more stress without gears so it makes it a lot easier for one of the wheels to slip out of place and become un-quartered. I've noticed a lot of modern manufacturers seem to be going with all geared wheels, such as Rapido Trains Inc with their Royal Hudson models. This is still an absolutely terrific video, I just wanted to share my thoughts on that. All the best ~Harrison
Thanks very much mate, really glad you liked it! Yes that's a good point - with a single geared axle, quartering becomes much more crucial - thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, any recommendations for gear lubricant and conductive lubricant?
I personally use silicon grease for gears (though make sure it's not too thick). I use petroleum jelly for the conductive lubricant, but it's important it doesn't come into contact with plastic!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You forgot to mention another disadvantage of coreless motors is that without the heavier iron core the locomotive can stop and go quickly which is unrealistic, I am assuming manufactures can overcome this with some heavy flywheels.
Ps, As for the friction part of your video, have you ever come across an HO engine that uses ball bearings? I've never heard or seen one that has.
PsPs. I'm not 100% certain on this but didn't the vintage Athearns use iron wheels, I have about a dozen of them and all the wheels are a gray metal (iron I assume) where as the newer engines use steel? I know one thing for sure is those iron wheels almost never get dirty, where as the new steel ones I'm having to clean the blackish crap that sticks to them quite regularly.
Yes that's a very good point, thanks very much for sharing! No, never seen ball bearings thus far!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi sam
A very educational video.
Very very well edited together
Learnt a few things from it
Thank you
Keep safe arp
Many thanks Adi, really glad you liked this! Stay safe my friend,
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I've always wondered how they work myself 😕🤔
Thank you! Hope this helped! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Informative, fascinating, and VERY. VERY INTERESTING. Thank you Sam i enjoyed this video immensely. I noticed you tried very hard not to mention B******N .🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🐖🚄🚅
Many thanks Mark, really glad you find this one interesting! Yes I tried, but I can't help it! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You know most N gauge modern units have metal strips on the bogies and pickup is done through the outer axle.
Very interesting - I'm not familiar with N gauge! :O
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I still disagree that bearing pickup is inferior. The plastic axle if produced with good plastic (such as delrin) and not cheap nylon like Bachmann does should last a while. Wipers wear out much faster than bearings and also are a lot more flimsier. In my experience using non-conductive lubes on bearings have no noticeable effect on performance, simply due to the sheer amount of additional surface area of bearings to axles vs wipers to flanges, and the electrical contact has no issue passing through the almost atom-level thin amount of lubricant. Maybe its a US vs UK thing but bearing pickup is on 90% of all non-trainset level steam locomotives, including proto 2000, MTH, BLI, and all brass locos.
Also, I still dont think you're giving coreless motors enough credit, but that's more personal experiences. Cooling is not an issue with all the diecast chassis frame around it, and a _SIMILAR SIZED_ coreless motor has much better torque, slow speed, smoothness, etc. over a can motor. Although I have seen how your coreless motor engines perform, so I do understand where you're coming from. They must be sourcing their motors from cheap places or something. They also appear to be using much smaller motors. I'll take a faulhaber or maxon coreless motor over a sagami or mashima can motor any day.
I fully agree with you other points, especially the traction tires. Overall all nice video
That's fair enough Charles - there are definitely some advantages with the bearing pickups, not denying that! That's true too - the better quality coreless motors I've seen definitely do run very well!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam Thanks for the reply regarding the fact that Crampton locomotives would make avery interesting subject for modelling.
Please take a look at the Pearson Locos of the Bristol and Exeter railway with their stunning 9ft !! driving wheels. This would surely challenge Hornby en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bristol_and_Exeter_Railway_4-2-4T_locomotives
Thanks a lot for this Leroy, I'll read that with interest!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
how do the manufacturers produce detail like siderods and such? just curious.
I suddenly realized I’ve been casually waiting 28 years for this (since I was 5 years old) 😂 perfect as always!!! Thanks Sam.
haha awesome!! Thanks so much - glad you liked it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
A you tuber called the unlucky tug use a part of you bachmann edward review in one of his video (rug's trains edward at the 4.00 mark)
Ooh interesting - I'll check that out, thanks! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you so much. So, when looking to buy locos I want 5 pole skew wound with a flywheel, wheel bearings and wiper pickups. I think I may be asking too much, but it would be nice.
Thanks Philip! Yes ideally, though not all models offer this sadly! :(
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Bit late to this video, well worth watching- I'll admit to being coreless ignorant!
I'm surprised you didn't mention axle articulation or sprung and compensated chassis as axle movement can make or break a models running ability on undulations or curves - Oxford's radial tank for example.
No problem mate - yeah they were pretty new to me until a few years ago! Yeah that's true, maybe that would have made a good section!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam, I have an older triang model (1969) and it’s wheel flanges are too tall for modern railway track. Can you please talk about how this change happened and if there is anything that can be done to fix older models to run in modern tracks.
Thanks Jeff! Sure, they decided to make track more realistic, and so the larger flanged locos were no longer compatible! I did grind some of mine down, and it worked a treat... but it's a bit bodgy!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very nice clear explanations. I would like to see a video about the different types of controllers.
Thank you! I have done that already! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam Once again an amazing video and I learnt some excellent tips. This was an extremely knowledgeable video, packed with information and delivered with notable enthusiasm and it is obvious that your personal information, research and content are extremely comprehensive.
You are dealing with a whole range of capabilities regarding a person’s level and ability to process information and speaking as a qualified teacher, the delivery was very fast. You may need to slow your delivery as the modelling community has a very broad range of ages, attention and ability to process content. Weell Done. Can't wait for more. Thanks
Thanks so much Leroy, glad to hear that! Apologies if the delivery was too fast - I'll work on this!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Do not apologise as this was meant only as constructive criticism. A slight slowing of delivery will reap rewards. You have massive content for someone of you age, it is your enthusiasm that is pulling the community in.
A good mechanism: as few moving parts as is physically possible while getting the job done - and each part being of the highest possible quality and precision.
A bad mechanism: Anything else.
Also Sam, speaking of power pickup - review a Märklin starter set! You must give your take on the 3-rail system, german engineering and... traction tire policy. ;)
funny you mention good mechanism is few parts to get the job done and yet the opposite is true and practiced and you refer with a marklin!
@@muir8009 It depends how you choose to interpret what I wrote. You could say what I mean is _no unessecery parts,_ then.
If you can get away with having 2 gears instead of 3 it's one less point of friction and one less part that will wear. Also, it's one less part that will cost money.
@@JonatanGronoset I like :) I had a gaiety pannier tank which had the optional factory 7 pole motor and the fairly serious 40:1 gearing (generally considerably lower than today's models) and my dublo 3 pole standard 9:1 gearing was actually a better low speed runner, and a lot less noisy. I got what you were saying in all honesty, and of course Marklin: brilliant. I'm just stirring with the old what makes a good quality mechanism. funnily enough I still think that 3 rail is still by far the best for practical operational running and still gets far to much grief solely because it's 3 rail. traction tyres we won't mention... :)
Yep I'd agree with that - the simpler the better really! I'd love to try the 3 rail system some time - it's always interested me! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains funnily enough I think a lot of people don't realise that 2 rail was first and 3 rail proved so reliable and useful that 2 rail was dropped. 3 rail has got an undeserved bad rap over the last many decades. yes, of course the third rail is unrealistic (as are underlength platforms? dual lane roads that in real life wouldn't even qualify as a car park? st Ives could fit 12 coach trains and have plenty of room to spare etc etc) but 3 rail is so easy to wire. instead of the oval you can have a dogbone and connect both east and westbound tracks at station yards with zero polarity issues. blocks so easy: isolate the central rail with one wire to each section. common return so pretty much just one wire from an outer rail and that's it. and the tracks need considerably less cleaning... :)
Very interesting always wanted to know how they work good video sam keep it up
Thanks a lot Fred, appreciate it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Superb Sam! Well done 👆
Thanks a lot Simon! :D
Thanks, Sam. What a great in-depth look - and so well made, as usual. Wouldn't selectable gears be a great thing? I wonder if it's ever been done.
Thanks so much Mark, really glad you liked it! haha yeah that would be super interesting to see actually!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Well done 👍. Two other side subjects could be AC and DC powered locomotives, and the differences of pulse and analogue voltage power. John
Very interesting John, I could certainly look into that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Most enjoyable Sam and very interesting. Can you tell me what lubricant you use on the gear train and pick up axles please
Thanks a lot Denis! I've been trialling silicone grease and petroleum jelly - they seem to do the job perfectly! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you for giving us the tuition we need to get decent trains and locomotives!! I had never thought about how model trains actually work!! I understood it as a boy because I learned it from using Scalextric cars and Hornby trains!!
No problem mate - ahh fantastic, yeah it's very similar to scalextric! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
can you use vaseline for lubricating the bearings on model trains like the crank pins and the gear train and the bearings?
You can use it to lubricate electrical contacts, but I wouldn't use it for lubricating - it's a bit too thick, and it can damage plastics!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, a very informative video. I have a question relating to the strain on a motor. I have seen layouts where there are inclines and also helixes. If the locomotive is pulling to much weight what damage can it do to the motor, is it possible to burn out the motor. Regards Greg
Thanks a lot Greg! Yes absolutely - some motors can be damaged by extended overloading. The greater the load, the more current the motor draws, and the more heat this produces. Badly/cheaply designed motors can definitely fail if they overheat!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Excellent. Informative and at a good pace. I can’t stand these mainly US channels that take so long to explain the simplest things. Thank you. 10/10.
Thanks Brian - glad to hear that mate, appreciate it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
But why does my loco wiggle side-to-side when it's running at full speed
That can happen if the wheels are wobbly, or maybe the axles are to blame - which loco is it??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Good clip Sam. Thx for your efforts..! Cheers kim in Oz 😎
Thanks a lot Kim!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Really enjoyed that Sam, very interesting and informative.
I didn’t know most of the terms you explained regarding motors so I have learnt something today.
Would also be interested in learning more about Feedback 👍
Thanks very much Adam, really glad to hear that! Feedback is a big one - I'm thinking about doing more on that soon! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
A very good video, indeed, Sam! This morning I cleaned the wheels on a 20 year old HO Kato NW-2 switcher/shunter using a small cloth saturated with alcohol between a powered section of track and each truck/bogie (sequentially, of course, so power would get to the motor!). I'd be interested to know how you clean your loco wheels and your track. Also, since much of your track is on a rug, do you have a problem picking up fuzzies? Cheers from Wisconsin.
Andrew Palm It can be quite challenging especially when the gears are not covered from bottom side. They tend to wind up the hairs, very common on carpet floor. You have to dissasemble the engine and with fine tweezers you can remove the hairs.
Thanks a lot for sharing Andrew! I did do a video on this some years ago - if you search for samstrains wheel cleaning, you should find my approach! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Excellent
Thank you! :D
Skew-Wound thrown around
Was this intentional XD
haha no!! xD
Make a Lional Train sets review please
Great idea, I'd love that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
A structural engineer can help you convert your roof to clear span rafters and you could get rid of the trusses.
Nah, I don't know how long we'll be living here, not much point... the room does what it should! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Soooo helpful
Thanks so much!! :D
Forgive my unknowing, but will the track shock you when plugged in? I want to get into model railways but Just worried about getting one and my son touching the track and getting a shock..
No absolutely not - the rails don’t run at mains voltage, they run on 12volt which is safe, and not enough to shock you!
@@SamsTrains amazing thank you! Been watching through your videos for the last couple of hours, some really good advice you've given! Really appreciate it and will definitely put it to use!
Im getting a bachmann duck, got a discount of 21 dollars!
Wow!! That's an amazing deal!! :O
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
kick arse vid Sam, mucho respectos Amigo! Boutros boutros ghali...
Thanks so much mate, have a good one! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
OK, clever clogs. Since you know more about steam engine motors than I ever will, because I hardly ever think about what sort is inside my steamies, here's a question from me you might be a bit scared to answer. Be brave, my good fellow.
On three separate occasions, you experienced what I would call a motor explosion. First, your class 58 diesel suffered an exploding motor. Second, poor little Terrier Whitechapel suffered the same. Third, one of the 14xx tank engines was in the same war. What could cause an engine's motor to blow up, apart from the fact it might be old and worn?
@@highbrookendmodelrailway Thanks, but I asked Sam, not you. Kindly remember, my good fellow, it's not nice to answer before Sam has a chance to get a word in. I'm not telling you off or criticising, but please, next time let Sam answer before you speak.
@@kellyashfordtrains2642 Apologies Kelly. I didn't think Sam would find it rude. I'll delete the comment.
@@highbrookendmodelrailway Good idea. Apology accepted.
haha good question - usually it's overheating or oil on the commutator! Sometimes the motor brushes can crumble away, and jam up the motor too! Though it's difficult to work out exactly what happened after a motor has fried!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Percy Rebecca here.
I have something to ask you!
I’m going to be hitting 6 Years on RUclips and I want to make a small short and I was wondering if you would like to voice the Narrator? It’s been a while since you’ve been in one of my shorts so let me know if you would like to.
Also great video!
Kind Regards
Percy Rebecca 🥰🥰🥰
Sprite Sprite Sprite Sprite FRICKIN SPRITE!!!!!!!!
haha! xD
Waiting for Hornby 2021 range 4 wheel/6 wheel coaches review
Sure! I'm looking forward to it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Can you explain the can motor excuse the pun. 👨✈️🚂❤️👍
Good idea Stephen! I understand that they're just enclosed in a housing (a 'can') rather than being open frame!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Interesting video, thank you. You may not remember Hornby's solution to wheel-to-rail friction. Yes, they used traction tyres, but, in the late 60s and early 70s they also made a big thing of Magnadhesion which was fitted to some locos. It sounded good and technical. Essentially though, the locomotive wheels were magnetised so that - well, they were magnets.
Thanks a lot! Yes you're absolutely right - I have a few like that, though sadly they're lost on nickel-silver track!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I love that you did a video on this!
-Lynne
Thanks a lot Lynne, glad you liked it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)