Crikey Charlie, if you looked under some of my layouts in the past you’d be in intensive care! 😜 should say I am much more disciplined these days but I suppose when I was doing things on a budget...and in my case I knew myself where everything went 🤓 I just got given a digital set up by a friend who is “upgrading” so I can stop being a dinosaur, so this has helped to familiarise myself with things I realise I am going to need to know. Still a bit intimidating starting something totally new after 40-odd years of doing things another way, but hey 😂 That website for Railway Scenics looks like a godsend so thank our very much for the heads up on that one 🍻 And finally, thanks for taking the time to do make another interesting, informative and entertaining way to pass half an hour at the end of the week 👍🍀
Sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my login password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Creed Riley Thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Heads off to make a cup of tea. Gets sidetracked. Forgets what was doing in the first place. Comes back an hour later. 'Oooo! New video from Charlie!'. Heads off to make a cup of tea...
@@ChadwickModelRailway I have hereafter moments. That's when I walk into a room, stop, and ask myself "Now what did I come in here after?" It's a way of life, now. :(
At the end of a very long day at the end of a very long week is there anything better than gating a cuppa and sitting down to watch some more educational Chadwick guffing about! Well done as ever Charlie
As for wiring, I only have limited space and run on DC and don't really need to run a DCC layout as there is only myself and maybe a friend helping out . Model Trains are one of the most,if not the most expensive hobby this side of Uranus!! Sorry,bad gaff there. Anyway wiring up my layout is fairly straight forward. Not many points to power,some signals and building/street lights,no sound effects (only by me), and two transformers for each 'foreign' main line ,ie,up and down, and a jimmy box I built from Dick Smith electronics years ago for my only local line in the freight yard. This box is just a simple two way switch small unit with a heat sink and holder that plugs into my multi pole female socket via a two metre long cable. Had it 30 years and still going strong!! This channel is great for giving me lots of hints and tips and also information for maybe one day expanding my layout,as I have built it in standard sized interconnecting modules that have 'dead end' track, dual mains and single mainlines that end @100mm from edge of layout to allow space for 200mm connecting straight (I never connect modules on curves or crossovers), for future layout expansion when I have more time and space to do so , I've found this to be a practical approach. I learnt some of these skills from my time in a model railway club when I was a member from 12y/old to @ 16. Even though it was an N gauge club, I ran both at home (HO & N gauge). Big shout out to The Sydney N Gauge Model Railway Club (SNGMRC). Not sure if they are still around as I don't live in Sydney,nor Australia anymore! I do often come here to visit family and friends and stay a few months or so , but haven't had too much time for choo choo trains as I'm busy saving the world!!... Love your channel Charlie, keep it up and God Bless you all!! Take care. A big Cheerio from Csanad Bernath, somewhere on planet Earth!!
A great vlog of info on power, districts, wiring and a reminder not to get your AC mixed with your DC, LOL. Everything explained and neat wiring does go a long way to help fault finding, than a spaghetti junction nightmare. I enjoyed this film with my first cuppa Char-Lee Tea in my new expensive (£3) Hatton's mug I bought this week with 4x Hatton's FEA Flat wagons. A heart warming Cuppa on these cold and chilly nights.
Nice video Charlie i am not very good at wireing and i don't really know too much about DCC so your are the person to watch when it comes to those kind of things the layout is looking great. Cheers and all the best. Nicholas.
Hi. Charlie you and Rons I Watch your shows both you guys and now I have my meter today. you guys. Helping me with my DCC thank you both for helping me I enjoy train set Vette Thank you
Great to hear that you’re trying to control the amount of adverts. I watch RUclips exclusively on my iPhone and this sometimes involves using mobile data. It gets pretty damn expensive constantly watching streams of adverts. Not a problem on my home WiFi though.
Loved the video,, it reminded me of my day at college listening to my lecture, well presented and I am glad I could stop and rewind to write down all the details, it was amazing , thank you
A useful video, I didn’t fully understand everything, being new to DCC however it does give me an idea. A will build a testbed first similar to that shown in ‘LAYOUT WIRING for DC and DCC and all gauges at Chadwick Model Railway’ This should help to start to understand the concepts better, for I move to the main layout. Thanks Charlie.
Hi Charlie, another marvellous video 👍👍 👍 it is a very good refreshment of my knowledge; Again, have a nice day for all of you and stay healthy mate!! Cold season greetings from a small village in the middle of the Netherlands; 🚂
Just a note that DCC Specialties also makes auto-reverser units which will change the polarity of a turnout's frog while simultaneously throwing the points. They are PSX-AR for slow motion machines like the Tortoise, andPSX-ARSC for machines that "snap" the points, as the Atlas ones do. I've used the PSX-ARSC for a decade now on return loops, and it's never failed me. You can use a Dual Frog Juicer to auto reverse a return loop too, but it won't automatically throw the points. (The Frog Juicers are fantastic devices, too!) Thanks for your videos.
Very informative video Charlie. Just now got to remember to put your advice into practice as laziness kinda dictates that I use 16/0 wire everywhere rather than switching wire sizes as appropriate !!
well, Charlie, you lost me. bit then again, i haven't got a train set, i just watch for the sheer pleasure. as ever, great fun. looking forward to the next one. best wishes from Toulouse.
Watches video while in the middle of installing new bus lines with correct wire and connectors this time. Mused to self...wonder if I should install separate power district modules. Video confirms it's a good idea. Goes online to research what works with ESU kit and order. Thanks Charlie.
G'day Charlie, I really enjoy your videos, in regard to cable sizes for beginers who read these comments, the thicker the cable the less the resistance hence a lower voltage drop, ie use thicker cables for power supply cables to the track and smaller cables for control signal wires etc, hope this helps.
Charlie, as always, you are the best at explaining things for us "newbies". I loved the de-coupling at 28:34, there is always some fun surprises when sorting things out for the first time. Just proves that we are human and there is always room for improvement . . . I loved the conversion talk about mm wire and their AWG equals. Being an ex electrician on the other side of the pond (USA), I fully understand the AWG info so your conversation about your side of the pond was very helpful when listening to you and others discuss wiring. Also, being fluent in telecommunications / data, I will be right at home with making data cables from scratch and I definitely understand color codes - your use of them to differentiate different circuits. I think I'll follow your lead here and use Blk/Rd for buss / dropper wiring Yel/Blu for auxiliary/point motor wiring and green for frogs - good choice. Also good to see you worked out the helix "slippage" issue - one loco and 8 couches is impressive. Stay healthy my friend. Keep up the GREAT! videos.
Hi Charlie, great and fascinating video. As my knowledge of electrics is and always has been minimal, but watching your videos has been an education and with your simple to follow commentaries I am actually understanding now what a loco is "pulling" current wise. However, I'm not a tea drinker so my beverage of choice whilst enjoying your videos is a fine single malt either a Macallan or Dalmore. Brilliant keep up the great work
I use my PM 42 for auto reversing, 3 reverse loops and the short piece of track on the turntable. My DCS 210 has always given out 14.7 Volts. I personally haven't tried this, but I understood from the DCC guy that the voltage can be trimmed within the setup on the throttle.
My head is now reeling from all the DCC wiring installations. Might stick with analogue. However, I have taken a photo from my mobile of the Railwayscenics website as I'm less likely to lose that than a piece of paper. Many thanks as ever; I always learn so much from your videos.
Another great video! Just a quick note to make life easier, when twisting wires together, especially multiple doubles. Get your cordless drill out, use a clamp to hold the two wires firmly at the table, chuck the other ends firmly in the drill and twist until saticefied. The chuck will bugger up the wires a bit, but cut them off and unwind/straighten a few turns and off you go.
great video. Info PM42 can be used on all DCC systems too, like the PSX. I have used both boards. All so do NOT forget to put in the ground wire from the command station to the boosters and all the other boards(PM42 and BDL168). And keep up the great work on the video. Great info.
Hi Charlie, I just realized this video is two years old but something I noticed which I'm sure you already know is the scale switch on your DCS1oo is set to N scale so it will only give you 12 volts. When set to H0 you get 15 volts and when set to O/G you get 20 volts.
Nice video Charlie even though your Digitrax stuff is not for me, I am on a NCE Powercab based system. I use the PSX circuit breakers they are brilliant, on my layout I have two for the fiddle yard up and down and two on the scenic section, the same up and down lines. You can adjust the trip current with jumpers, I have it low because I am on n gauge. You can also set the breaker to stay off on a short, I have a simple press to make switch to reset the breaker after sorting the fault. I also have led's attached to show the fault for the two breakers on the fiddle yard all good stuff. Keep the videos coming I always enjoying watching them.
Hi Charlie. Although I run my own small layout on dc, I still found your video interesting and informative. Mind you, I enjoy watching all of your videos 🙂 Also thank you for putting the links in description for all the stuff that you use - very useful. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for this informative and well presented video, puts more light on all those technical components. The Alphameter is nice; reminds me of my SignaTrak ACE2, which displays the total Amps in its display. Good humour as well, stay safe!
Don't you love it when semiconductors fail to protect easily replaceable fuses? I once built a 70watt power amplifier that did exactly the same thing! Great video, as usual.
Great video Charlie - I wish i'd split my bus in the same way but it's a bit late now for me. I'm loving the look of the new layout with the helix etc. Keep up the good work and stay safe my friend. Ian
Got up at 4 to watch the cricket. Had an unforeseen power nap halfway through your video so missed the end.. Nothing personal Charlie. Will watch it again.. 🤭
Another great video Charlie. Larry Puckett, from Model Railroader, has stated in one of his videos that you need a ground wire running between your command station and boosters and/or multiple boosters. You will notice in the middle of the Digitrax connector you have a ground port. I asked Larry about DCS50 through DCS52s, used as stationary throttles, (only on LocoNet) needing to be grounded to the booster. I happen to have an old 50. He didn't think that was necessary. If used as a command station with a booster then it probably needs to be grounded to the booster. Sorry to hear you smoked your equipment. Ouch! One of my suppliers has said that Digitrax is slow shipping product lately. That might be due to the restrictions in place for Covid. I use 14 AWG stranded wire for my buss and 22 AWG for my track feeders. I was using Posi-Taps but I have switched to Vampire Buss Connectors. Much easier when changes are required. Recently while working with decoders I had to buy a new set of wire strippers that handle 32 AWG. The speaker wires on Soundtraxx TSU-2200 Steam Decoders are that small. The other wires for track power, motor, LED headlight, etc are 30 AWG. So, 30 on one side of the decoder and 32 on the other side. I hope you get your trains running again soon.
Charlie, the Digitrax command stations have a switch for O/G, N, HO. That switch affects the track voltage to line up with the NMRA electrical standard. 12V is what is wanted for N gauge and your switch appears to be in the centre position - N gauge.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hey Charlie- I just looked through the DB150 manual. It is rather poor with respect to power supply requirements. Usually to get 15V DCC you need1.4-2 volts drop for rectification and then 1.5V for the typical regulator used. So to get 15V DCC you would need 18.5V DC at least. Going higher just means more heating in the DB150. 15VAC would also work fine. I expect this stuff would be well covered in digitrax forums. Clues in Digitrax recommended supplies PS514 15VAC 6A, PS615 15VAC 6A. 6A gives headroom for current used by the 5A command station/booster. I would go looking for a 6A 15V supply for that.
Hi Charlie. Another informative and entertaining video. My end to end layout is purely dc. It is amazing how far things have advanced in the last few years. I don't think my layout would warrant the expense of converting it to dcc. If I had the room for a larger layout and I was a bit younger (yes I'm getting on a bit) I would probably have a go at dcc. It's always enjoyable watching you and following your progress on your layout. Keep up the good work and stay safe. Cheers Chris.
And I went 'DCC' because I was told, "You only need two wires!" Something you didn't specifically mention that I'm sure you do; Keep your points/accessories on their own Power District. BtW: I always make a pot of tea before sitting down to watch you.
Well, Charlie another Tour de Force, thank you. I have noticed that the wiring on your Layout(s) have been getting more complicated over the Years. Your Videos are so well prepared and produced, excellent. I bet you don’t sit down much and watch the Television. Keep safe.
I love the added technical aspect that DCC brings. Yes, i know that with ordinary DC you can achieve a lot, but it does not compare to what can be done with DCC. I love the way you lay everything out, and make it easier to understand how everything interacts. Now, seeing that Barnstaple is my local station, I was rather chuffed to see you were going to call your branch line station Barnstaple, but, after watching your white board presentation in this video, i see your branch line is going off to Barnstable, which I think is in Cape Cod in the USA! Most impressive indeed. 😉😉😁
Hello Charlie, I’m not into DCC but it’s good to know that if and when I do take the plunge these videos are there as a guide. That Western really charges up the helix now. The design change was definitely the right thing to do.
I use the PSX boards for my districts and also PSX AR which is an Auto reverse loops. A also have added the buzzer so I get an audible warning plus i have added LED's on my control panel which also flash when a short circuit occurs. They can also be daisy chained and do not need a additional power source. Great video Charlie, watching in Perth Australia but still drinking tea as you pescribed!
The Western class 52 loco looks like a very good runner with low power consumption and hauling a realistic number of coaches up a gradient and curve resistance. With such a good headroom for amperage, my thoughts are coach lighting and feeding the power from the loco to the coaches via the AC voltage from the loco pickups and with tiny connections run a bus through the coaches and take a spur to feed the lights in each coach saving any more drag from coach pickups. Another thought is that in valve equipment such as audio amplifiers it's quite common to twist wires to avoid interference, especially on the 6.3-volt filament wires. One tip is to use a power drill and get your pair of wires and attach to a bench and put the other end into the chuck and slowly turn the wires to form a very good twist and uniform. Very good explanation of model railway wiring which has come a long way since my Hornby Dublo 3 rail set I had as a kid, yup I'm vintage and no exhibition at Ally Pally this year either!
Since subscribing, I've gradually worked my way through all the videos and have to say the ones on all subjects DCC have been fascinating, including this one One thing I'd be interested in seeing is a prototypical HST with two power cars to see if they could be synchronised to work together
Another cracking video, Charlie - thank you! A suggestion - and an apology if you've already covered this somewhere - if you're a team building a layout then document both your wiring plan and wiring convention from the off, and insist everyone adheres to it. Hopefully then you'll avoid that member with a penchant for yellow wire going off-piste when they're working "un-supervised". Plus too you'll have a baseline to refer to when expanding or fault-finding the layout at a later date. P.S. good practice for personal layouts too 🤗
Thanks Charlie, an excellent video as always. And this one in particular contained lots of helpful advice. I really do like those DCC Concepts Alpha Meters, I will be investing in some as I progress the construction of my railway which is likely to end up with four power districts, potentially six. Interestingly you and I have several things in common with the railways we’re building, including it seems, colour coding ! I’m also using red/black for track feeds, blue/yellow for the accessory buses and green frog wires (well, it makes sense really, seeing as frogs are green 🐸. Take care Charlie.
I approve of power management. One power management device that you did not mention, which I use, is the MERG DCO. One has to be a member of MERG and build it oneself, but it works nicely, is solid state, good value for money and can be switched down as low as 1.5A (or even 0.75A with a very simple modification).
A superbly informative video Charlie -I probably won't be mentioning the cost of booster, Alpha Meter, PSX4 etc to my wife (two wires my elbow!) Paul (West Pennard)
Thank you for another great video always a very enjoyable informative and easy to follow watch, Thank you for given us the heads up on the dcc specialities PSX1 Iam looking into buying one ASAP apart from having a end of bus filter i had no protection againest power surges etc i have learnt a great deal from watchibg your videos so thank you again for sharing your knowledge All the best
With the psx you can get terminal blocks on board and run wire to panel board with LEDS so when you get an overload ( I don't use shorts because everyone starts looking for a short not an overload such as 6 sound engines with current keepers all coming on at same time which will trip a 3amp rating) , or you can add a tone maker(?) to each board so it gives you an audible if you have an overload . See circle on psx board ? These are a great help telling you you have an overload ( you no longer get audible from main brain) and where it is. I love those volt meters but can't afford at this time. Great video good explanation of things. Thanks Charlie! Sorry to here you blew you power brain good luck with digitrax fixing. They said when they started supplying their new systems they would fix as parts lasted.
Hi Charlie, before you send the DCS100 back, you might want to check with a multimeter set to DC, the voltage between the ground terminal and rail A, then ground and rail B. The two should be around the same and around half the desired track voltage. I assume that you have checked the AC supply output is kicking out the right voltage. All the best, George.
Hi Charlie, great video, I am still on analog totally, I do have the odd headache but it seems to run ok,I use mostly solid copper wire with some lighter droppers, I do like the idea of your system,one day maybe when the budget allows, stay safe and keep well, cheers
Perfect timing for me too. Almost finished the boards on my continuous running three track plus branch layout. Was beginning to ponder the power district issue.
Once again Charlie A very useful Video as I'm rewiring my Layout mainly to build a Mimic board but i do have Four blocks fed off Four Switches so i can isolate sections for Fault finding. Looking to go full automation in the near future need to do more overtime me thinks. As to the incline i use the inbuilt one on my Old iphone Keep up the Great Work Love the new 3 a month format
I look forward to your video`s Charlie, but this one was as clear as mud lol, Ive just got O gauge garden railway with radio control loco, so this went over my head, but so entertaining.
I'm thinking of setting up a layout. DC to start and then we'll see how it goes. I enjoy your videos nonetheless. Lots of good Information here. I have subscribed to your channel. Thanks for all your hard work.
Hi Charlie, great video as always, I am liking the education on DCC and associated equipment. It would have been interesting to see either a multimeter voltage reading on both the power outputs to see if there was a difference on the meter or if you swapped the alpha meters over just to check their calibration! Just a thought.
Very informative Charlie 👍🏻 That Western brake away was funny but could of turned out worse with those coaches rushing back down the helix 😩 Have a great weekend cheers Stevie 😎
I marked the other day in my Future layout considerations file "Digitrax seems good" after watching a bunch of videos from people who use digitrax because currently I have no space for a layout but I want to have one some day before I die. After watching this video I added "Alphameter" to that file
Hi Charlie, Another great video. I've just looked at the voltage output for the DCS240 in the manual (yes I do read them) It says on page 25. "The DCS240 can only OUTPUT approximately as much voltage as it is receiving. If you are only using a 15V DC power supply the DCS240 cannot output more than 15V DC. Use a power supply that approximates your planned track voltage." I would guess that you have a 12 volt DC power supply attached and your DCS240 is working fine. Regards, David.
@@ChadwickModelRailway The manual for the DCS 100 advises to check the voltage unloaded, I'm sure you have read the manual. I presume you have checked your DC supply is good and not dropping under load. Regards, David.
I use the PSX devices on my NCE layout (8 districts). I also have an RRampMeter by DCC Specialtie, which is similar to the DCC Concepts device. I use it with my programming track, but I could follow your lead and use it on the layout.
Hi Charlie, sorry to hear the controller blew at the end of the video. I would have thought that such an expensive bit of kit would have had some form of protection such as a rectifier should someone accidently use AC instead of DC supplies. Hope you get it fixed in good time. Again, a very informative and educational video. I do find the electronic side of model railways interesting.
Yes Michael, I have heard of them and seen photos of them but I’ve never held them in my hands. They do seem like a useful Quickrelease solution to wiring. Regards Charlie
excellent video Charlie, model railways can be classed as a highly skilled hobby these days; I was wondering if anyone has ever added Model Railways to their CV? with planning, both on paper and PC, joinery, electronics and fault finding, decoders and programming, structure building and scenery. to the uninitiated it might look strange, as an engineer myself I think it could help. maybe I've not watched enough of your videos yet , did you get the digitrax units repaired?
A very informative video, thanks. I may look in to getting an Alpha metre it does look like a useful bit of kit though my DCC command centre does have an Amp display in the corner of its touch screen.
Hi Charlie I always watch and look forward to your videos every two weeks and find them a great help and the way you present them holds complete attention up until the end of the video, even my wife who has no interest in model railways watches (some) of your videos and even says Hi Charlie; however, I was concerned when you said the largest wire size you used was 0.75mm2 (24/0.2), which is rated at 4.5A. If your command station / booster is set for 5A the wire is not protected under unforeseen fault conditions. IEEE state even for low voltage applications which includes model railways the minimum current rating of the wire should be 20 - 25% greater than the protection device. If the command station / booster cut-out is set for 5A the DCC bus minimum wire size should be 1.0mm2 (32/0.2) which is a 6A wire (see manufactures data sheets and the railwayscenics web site) i.e. 5A x 1.2 = 6A. This then provides full protection of the wire under UK regulations. When using DCOs the minimum wire size can be reduced between the DCO and track according to the DCO cut-out setting i.e. 3A cut-out use a minimum wire size 0.75mm2 (24/0.2) which is a 4.5A wire, 2A cut-out use a minimum wire size 0.5mm2 (16/0.2) which is a 3.0A wire etc. The solder connection to the track can be considered as chassis wiring and it is OK to use a short say 50 - 100mm smaller wire (I use 0.5mm2 (16/0.2) for track connections), that connects to a larger dropper wire this ensures any heat generated from the wire can be dissipated through the track and the adjoining larger wire. In reality it is unlikely that in a model railway’s normal operation any problems would be experienced using 24/0.2 and 16/0.2 wires, but an unforeseen fault that causes an excessive current draw could result in the wires running (very) hot if the wire is rated less than the protection device. Hope this is useful for you when wiring your extension boards.
Hi Charlie, your a hive of information towards my layout. Also directing us to other wonderful RUclips sites, do you know when McKinley is going to post another screening, not that I'm bored with yours. It's a modellers dream layout Regards Simon Thomson
HI Charlie, if your users have Brave or Google Chrome, and either adjust settings (Brave) or add Adblock plus (Chrome) they will not have to suffer from adverts interrupting the videos. I never have any ads interrupting your videos.
Crikey Charlie, if you looked under some of my layouts in the past you’d be in intensive care! 😜 should say I am much more disciplined these days but I suppose when I was doing things on a budget...and in my case I knew myself where everything went 🤓
I just got given a digital set up by a friend who is “upgrading” so I can stop being a dinosaur, so this has helped to familiarise myself with things I realise I am going to need to know. Still a bit intimidating starting something totally new after 40-odd years of doing things another way, but hey 😂 That website for Railway Scenics looks like a godsend so thank our very much for the heads up on that one 🍻
And finally, thanks for taking the time to do make another interesting, informative and entertaining way to pass half an hour at the end of the week 👍🍀
What a heartwarming comment Tim. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
That’s very kind of you to say so Tim. Many thanks, regards Charlie
Sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my login password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Arlo Dane instablaster :)
@Creed Riley Thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Heads off to make a cup of tea. Gets sidetracked. Forgets what was doing in the first place. Comes back an hour later. 'Oooo! New video from Charlie!'. Heads off to make a cup of tea...
My life all over.
Where are my keys .. have you seen my glasses .....
@@ChadwickModelRailway I have hereafter moments. That's when I walk into a room, stop, and ask myself "Now what did I come in here after?" It's a way of life, now. :(
Nice vid. It's always a pleasure watching your knowledgeable and informative videos. Your sense of humor is icing on the cake.
I’m so pleased that you found it entertaining Donald. Regards Charlie
Wow....I got lost with this....you are so experienced in this..well done..I'm a trial and error guy...stay healthy
I’m so pleased that you found it useful David.
Another very informative video Charlie. Thank you. Did make me chuckle when the carriages uncoupled before the viaduct 😂.
It was rather amusing and I laughed out loud, just before I cringed and fell to my knees. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway 😂
Thanks Charlie. No worries, but I appreciate it. 👍🏼
Thanks Ron, I’m just so sorry it happened in the first place mate. Regards Charlie
Great video with lots of technical detail and ideas to follow up. I'll have to watch it twice to absorb all the info. Thanks again
Thanks old Duffill, that’s very kind of you to say so.
At the end of a very long day at the end of a very long week is there anything better than gating a cuppa and sitting down to watch some more educational Chadwick guffing about! Well done as ever Charlie
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie.
Absolutely fabulous!! Such wonderfully useful knowledge; all presented with a fabulous sense of humor. Truly enjoyable.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Kevin.
As for wiring, I only have limited space and run on DC and don't really need to run a DCC layout as there is only myself and maybe a friend helping out . Model Trains are one of the most,if not the most expensive hobby this side of Uranus!! Sorry,bad gaff there. Anyway wiring up my layout is fairly straight forward. Not many points to power,some signals and building/street lights,no sound effects (only by me), and two transformers for each 'foreign' main line ,ie,up and down, and a jimmy box I built from Dick Smith electronics years ago for my only local line in the freight yard. This box is just a simple two way switch small unit with a heat sink and holder that plugs into my multi pole female socket via a two metre long cable. Had it 30 years and still going strong!! This channel is great for giving me lots of hints and tips and also information for maybe one day expanding my layout,as I have built it in standard sized interconnecting modules that have 'dead end' track, dual mains and single mainlines that end @100mm from edge of layout to allow space for 200mm connecting straight (I never connect modules on curves or crossovers), for future layout expansion when I have more time and space to do so , I've found this to be a practical approach. I learnt some of these skills from my time in a model railway club when I was a member from 12y/old to @ 16. Even though it was an N gauge club, I ran both at home (HO & N gauge). Big shout out to The Sydney N Gauge Model Railway Club (SNGMRC). Not sure if they are still around as I don't live in Sydney,nor Australia anymore! I do often come here to visit family and friends and stay a few months or so , but haven't had too much time for choo choo trains as I'm busy saving the world!!... Love your channel Charlie, keep it up and God Bless you all!! Take care. A big Cheerio from Csanad Bernath, somewhere on planet Earth!!
Many thanks, A329, for very interesting looking into your world.
Regards, Charlie
A great vlog of info on power, districts, wiring and a reminder not to get your AC mixed with your DC, LOL. Everything explained and neat wiring does go a long way to help fault finding, than a spaghetti junction nightmare. I enjoyed this film with my first cuppa Char-Lee Tea in my new expensive (£3) Hatton's mug I bought this week with 4x Hatton's FEA Flat wagons. A heart warming Cuppa on these cold and chilly nights.
Thanks John, what a heartwarming comment. Regards Charlie.
Nice video Charlie i am not very good at wireing and i don't really know too much about DCC so your are the person to watch when it comes to those kind of things the layout is looking great. Cheers and all the best.
Nicholas.
Thanks Nicholas, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and it’s great to have you on board. Regards Charlie
Hi. Charlie you and Rons I Watch your shows both you guys and now I have my meter today. you guys. Helping me with my DCC thank you both for helping me I enjoy train set Vette Thank you
Thanks Stanley, it’s great to have you onboard.
Great to hear that you’re trying to control the amount of adverts. I watch RUclips exclusively on my iPhone and this sometimes involves using mobile data. It gets pretty damn expensive constantly watching streams of adverts. Not a problem on my home WiFi though.
Thanks for your understanding Tom. Regards Charlie
Thank you for removing the ads - I dislike them with a passion. I enjoy watching your adventures, thanks for the lessons today.
Thanks Terence I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Loved the video,, it reminded me of my day at college listening to my lecture, well presented and I am glad I could stop and rewind to write down all the details, it was amazing , thank you
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting John. Regards Charlie
Lot’s of useful information. I’m new to the hobby and enjoy your videos. Thanks Charlie.
Paul, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Always a great presentation! Thanks!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Geert
A useful video, I didn’t fully understand everything, being new to DCC however it does give me an idea. A will build a testbed first similar to that shown in ‘LAYOUT WIRING for DC and DCC and all gauges at Chadwick Model Railway’ This should help to start to understand the concepts better, for I move to the main layout. Thanks Charlie.
That’s a sound plan Simon.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, another marvellous video 👍👍 👍 it is a very good refreshment of my knowledge;
Again, have a nice day for all of you and stay healthy mate!!
Cold season greetings from a small village in the middle of the Netherlands; 🚂
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Wim.
Just a note that DCC Specialties also makes auto-reverser units which will change the polarity of a turnout's frog while simultaneously throwing the points. They are PSX-AR for slow motion machines like the Tortoise, andPSX-ARSC for machines that "snap" the points, as the Atlas ones do. I've used the PSX-ARSC for a decade now on return loops, and it's never failed me. You can use a Dual Frog Juicer to auto reverse a return loop too, but it won't automatically throw the points. (The Frog Juicers are fantastic devices, too!) Thanks for your videos.
An interesting option. Many thanks regards Charlie
Very informative video Charlie. Just now got to remember to put your advice into practice as laziness kinda dictates that I use 16/0 wire everywhere rather than switching wire sizes as appropriate !!
It’s not a bad “go too” option Gary.
Thanks so much for sharing. Its great to know ahead of doing a project what should be done.
I’m so pleased that you find my videos useful Dave,. Regards Charlie
Note to self: Never let Charlie look under the layout at the wiring bus!
I believe someone’s got a guilty complex.
well, Charlie, you lost me. bit then again, i haven't got a train set, i just watch for the sheer pleasure. as ever, great fun. looking forward to the next one. best wishes from Toulouse.
I’m so pleased that you enjoy it Kevin. Regards Charlie
Watches video while in the middle of installing new bus lines with correct wire and connectors this time. Mused to self...wonder if I should install separate power district modules. Video confirms it's a good idea. Goes online to research what works with ESU kit and order. Thanks Charlie.
Paul I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
G'day Charlie, I really enjoy your videos, in regard to cable sizes for beginers who read these comments, the thicker the cable the less the resistance hence a lower voltage drop, ie use thicker cables for power supply cables to the track and smaller cables for control signal wires etc, hope this helps.
A good point Alex, something that we all take for granted that perhaps isn’t obvious. Regards Charlie
Nice video, DCC wiring is much more than you expect
It certainly keeps us on our toes. Regards Charlie
Interesting subject, thanks again Charlie. You can certainly see the advantages and sometimes the disadvantages of DCC when it goes wrong.
A fair comment Don. Regards Charlie
Charlie, as always, you are the best at explaining things for us "newbies". I loved the de-coupling at 28:34, there is always some fun surprises when sorting things out for the first time. Just proves that we are human and there is always room for improvement . . . I loved the conversion talk about mm wire and their AWG equals. Being an ex electrician on the other side of the pond (USA), I fully understand the AWG info so your conversation about your side of the pond was very helpful when listening to you and others discuss wiring. Also, being fluent in telecommunications / data, I will be right at home with making data cables from scratch and I definitely understand color codes - your use of them to differentiate different circuits. I think I'll follow your lead here and use Blk/Rd for buss / dropper wiring Yel/Blu for auxiliary/point motor wiring and green for frogs - good choice. Also good to see you worked out the helix "slippage" issue - one loco and 8 couches is impressive. Stay healthy my friend. Keep up the GREAT! videos.
Great comment Pete, frogs are green hence the wire colour.
Hi Charlie, great and fascinating video. As my knowledge of electrics is and always has been minimal, but watching your videos has been an education and with your simple to follow commentaries I am actually understanding now what a loco is "pulling" current wise. However, I'm not a tea drinker so my beverage of choice whilst enjoying your videos is a fine single malt either a Macallan or Dalmore. Brilliant keep up the great work
We have similar tastes in both railways and whiskeys, however I prefer Laphroaig!
This is exactly the video I’ve been wanting you to make
Here to help Scott. Cheers mate
Was very satisfying to see the train carry on at the top of the helix
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jon.
Great video again. That Helix looks much better now there’s an extra loop
I’m so glad that you like it Colin. And it certainly does run better now. Regards Charlie
Great work charlie, and very timely as I am looking at just this subject in preparation of my build . thanks
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Phil.
I use my PM 42 for auto reversing, 3 reverse loops and the short piece of track on the turntable. My DCS 210 has always given out 14.7 Volts. I personally haven't tried this, but I understood from the DCC guy that the voltage can be trimmed within the setup on the throttle.
I have replied via email Sam.
Regards Charlie
Thank you for this video. Very helpful.
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
My head is now reeling from all the DCC wiring installations. Might stick with analogue. However, I have taken a photo from my mobile of the Railwayscenics website as I'm less likely to lose that than a piece of paper. Many thanks as ever; I always learn so much from your videos.
Probably the best way Will. I'm covered in "Post Its"!
Another great video! Just a quick note to make life easier, when twisting wires together, especially multiple doubles. Get your cordless drill out, use a clamp to hold the two wires firmly at the table, chuck the other ends firmly in the drill and twist until saticefied. The chuck will bugger up the wires a bit, but cut them off and unwind/straighten a few turns and off you go.
And interestingly you’re not the 1st to mention it either. many thanks, regards Charlie
great video. Info PM42 can be used on all DCC systems too, like the PSX. I have used both boards. All so do NOT forget to put in the ground wire from the command station to the boosters and all the other boards(PM42 and BDL168). And keep up the great work on the video. Great info.
A good point Ron. It’s great to have you on board, regards Charlie
There is also a eb1 breaker from digitrains this does the same job. Thank for sharing Charlie.
Thanks for the tip Ian. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie - as you promised, this video answers all my questions.....for now!
Thanks Neil, glad to be of service. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, I just realized this video is two years old but something I noticed which I'm sure you already know is the scale switch on your DCS1oo is set to N scale so it will only give you 12 volts.
When set to H0 you get 15 volts and when set to O/G you get 20 volts.
Yes, Philip, it was pointed out several times, but thanks anyway. Regards, Charlie
Thanks Charlie, another very enjoyable video to go with my cuppa and biscuits.
Just the one sugar Dave.
Another excellent and informative video. many thanks Charlie.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Dave. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Nice video Charlie even though your Digitrax stuff is not for me, I am on a NCE Powercab based system. I use the PSX circuit breakers they are brilliant, on my layout I have two for the fiddle yard up and down and two on the scenic section, the same up and down lines. You can adjust the trip current with jumpers, I have it low because I am on n gauge. You can also set the breaker to stay off on a short, I have a simple press to make switch to reset the breaker after sorting the fault. I also have led's attached to show the fault for the two breakers on the fiddle yard all good stuff. Keep the videos coming I always enjoying watching them.
Great comment mate thank you.Clearly the PSX breakers are working for you.
Hi Charlie. Although I run my own small layout on dc, I still found your video interesting and informative. Mind you, I enjoy watching all of your videos 🙂 Also thank you for putting the links in description for all the stuff that you use - very useful. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting. Regards Charlie
very good video I love watching your vids I have watched nearly everyone
It’s great to have you onboard Oly.
Thanks for this informative and well presented video, puts more light on all those technical components.
The Alphameter is nice; reminds me of my SignaTrak ACE2, which displays the total Amps in its display.
Good humour as well, stay safe!
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Don't you love it when semiconductors fail to protect easily replaceable fuses? I once built a 70watt power amplifier that did exactly the same thing! Great video, as usual.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Steve. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie - I wish i'd split my bus in the same way but it's a bit late now for me. I'm loving the look of the new layout with the helix etc. Keep up the good work and stay safe my friend. Ian
That’s very kind of you to say so Ian, stay safe, regards Charlie
Got up at 4 to watch the cricket. Had an unforeseen power nap halfway through your video so missed the end.. Nothing personal Charlie. Will watch it again.. 🤭
He disgraceful admission Mark!!!. Regards Charlie
Another great video Charlie. Larry Puckett, from Model Railroader, has stated in one of his videos that you need a ground wire running between your command station and boosters and/or multiple boosters. You will notice in the middle of the Digitrax connector you have a ground port. I asked Larry about DCS50 through DCS52s, used as stationary throttles, (only on LocoNet) needing to be grounded to the booster. I happen to have an old 50. He didn't think that was necessary. If used as a command station with a booster then it probably needs to be grounded to the booster. Sorry to hear you smoked your equipment. Ouch! One of my suppliers has said that Digitrax is slow shipping product lately. That might be due to the restrictions in place for Covid.
I use 14 AWG stranded wire for my buss and 22 AWG for my track feeders. I was using Posi-Taps but I have switched to Vampire Buss Connectors. Much easier when changes are required. Recently while working with decoders I had to buy a new set of wire strippers that handle 32 AWG. The speaker wires on Soundtraxx TSU-2200 Steam Decoders are that small. The other wires for track power, motor, LED headlight, etc are 30 AWG. So, 30 on one side of the decoder and 32 on the other side. I hope you get your trains running again soon.
What an excellent comment, with some sound advice.I’m so pleased that you find the videos interesting. Regards Charlie
Charlie, the Digitrax command stations have a switch for O/G, N, HO. That switch affects the track voltage to line up with the NMRA electrical standard. 12V is what is wanted for N gauge and your switch appears to be in the centre position - N gauge.
Thanks Greg, but I did try it out in every position and the voltage never changed. So it could be a duff switch? Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hey Charlie- I just looked through the DB150 manual. It is rather poor with respect to power supply requirements. Usually to get 15V DCC you need1.4-2 volts drop for rectification and then 1.5V for the typical regulator used. So to get 15V DCC you would need 18.5V DC at least. Going higher just means more heating in the DB150. 15VAC would also work fine. I expect this stuff would be well covered in digitrax forums. Clues in Digitrax recommended supplies PS514 15VAC 6A, PS615 15VAC 6A. 6A gives headroom for current used by the 5A command station/booster. I would go looking for a 6A 15V supply for that.
Hi Charlie. Another informative and entertaining video. My end to end layout is purely dc. It is amazing how far things have advanced in the last few years. I don't think my layout would warrant the expense of converting it to dcc. If I had the room for a larger layout and I was a bit younger (yes I'm getting on a bit) I would probably have a go at dcc. It's always enjoyable watching you and following your progress on your layout. Keep up the good work and stay safe. Cheers Chris.
I’m so pleased that you find the channel interesting Chris.
Very interesting video again Charlie! Thanks again for sharing. Cheers Onno.
You’re most welcome Onno. Regards Charlie
And I went 'DCC' because I was told, "You only need two wires!"
Something you didn't specifically mention that I'm sure you do;
Keep your points/accessories on their own Power District.
BtW: I always make a pot of tea before sitting down to watch you.
Hi Brian, yes my points etc are separately powered. Regards Charlie.
Roco tried that... and had to increase to 19 volt output to have working magnetic points.
As fortune would have it, happened to have a cuppa to hand! Thanks for the informative video Charlie, much appreciated 👍
I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting Joseph.
Well, Charlie another Tour de Force, thank you. I have noticed that the wiring on your Layout(s) have been getting more complicated over the Years. Your Videos are so well prepared and produced, excellent. I bet you don’t sit down much and watch the Television. Keep safe.
Thanks Peter, you’re too kind mate.
I love the added technical aspect that DCC brings. Yes, i know that with ordinary DC you can achieve a lot, but it does not compare to what can be done with DCC. I love the way you lay everything out, and make it easier to understand how everything interacts. Now, seeing that Barnstaple is my local station, I was rather chuffed to see you were going to call your branch line station Barnstaple, but, after watching your white board presentation in this video, i see your branch line is going off to Barnstable, which I think is in Cape Cod in the USA! Most impressive indeed. 😉😉😁
It will be built in the spirit of Barnstable, Devon. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway That would be Barnstaple with a 'p' , not a 'b' then. 😉
If only I could speel !
The links to Amazon are very useful.
Thanks Mike. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, great video as always . noticed the the DCS150 was set to N not HO which would give you 12v not 15v.
Rest assured Rob it’s 12.3 on HO too!
Wretched thing. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, I’m not into DCC but it’s good to know that if and when I do take the plunge these videos are there as a guide. That Western really charges up the helix now. The design change was definitely the right thing to do.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting David. Regards Charlie
I use the PSX boards for my districts and also PSX AR which is an Auto reverse loops. A also have added the buzzer so I get an audible warning plus i have added LED's on my control panel which also flash when a short circuit occurs. They can also be daisy chained and do not need a additional power source. Great video Charlie, watching in Perth Australia but still drinking tea as you pescribed!
A great comment mate with some useful tips. Stay safe over there, regards Charlie
The Western class 52 loco looks like a very good runner with low power consumption and hauling a realistic number of coaches up a gradient and curve resistance. With such a good headroom for amperage, my thoughts are coach lighting and feeding the power from the loco to the coaches via the AC voltage from the loco pickups and with tiny connections run a bus through the coaches and take a spur to feed the lights in each coach saving any more drag from coach pickups.
Another thought is that in valve equipment such as audio amplifiers it's quite common to twist wires to avoid interference, especially on the 6.3-volt filament wires. One tip is to use a power drill and get your pair of wires and attach to a bench and put the other end into the chuck and slowly turn the wires to form a very good twist and uniform. Very good explanation of model railway wiring which has come a long way since my Hornby Dublo 3 rail set I had as a kid, yup I'm vintage and no exhibition at Ally Pally this year either!
What’s the most interesting and heartwarming comment Ian. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, great video as usual, please be careful though when tweaking pots with a metal screwdriver and whilst it was live as well.
A good point Barry.
@@ChadwickModelRailway www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223482996112 these are ideal
Since subscribing, I've gradually worked my way through all the videos and have to say the ones on all subjects DCC have been fascinating, including this one
One thing I'd be interested in seeing is a prototypical HST with two power cars to see if they could be synchronised to work together
I’m no doubt that they can Martin, but adjusting the CVs to that accuracy may take some time. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway If you are willing to try I'd be happy to pay for a power car, would make a fascinating video
Another cracking video, Charlie - thank you! A suggestion - and an apology if you've already covered this somewhere - if you're a team building a layout then document both your wiring plan and wiring convention from the off, and insist everyone adheres to it. Hopefully then you'll avoid that member with a penchant for yellow wire going off-piste when they're working "un-supervised". Plus too you'll have a baseline to refer to when expanding or fault-finding the layout at a later date. P.S. good practice for personal layouts too 🤗
An interesting point David. And perhaps it would’ve saved the gentleman’s embarrassment when we eventually met up. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, an excellent video as always. And this one in particular contained lots of helpful advice. I really do like those DCC Concepts Alpha Meters, I will be investing in some as I progress the construction of my railway which is likely to end up with four power districts, potentially six. Interestingly you and I have several things in common with the railways we’re building, including it seems, colour coding ! I’m also using red/black for track feeds, blue/yellow for the accessory buses and green frog wires (well, it makes sense really, seeing as frogs are green 🐸. Take care Charlie.
As they say Bryan clever minds think alike, hopefully. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Indeed Charlie...... or is it that fools rarely differ ? 🤪
Mmm perhaps!
I approve of power management.
One power management device that you did not mention, which I use, is the MERG DCO. One has to be a member of MERG and build it oneself, but it works nicely, is solid state, good value for money and can be switched down as low as 1.5A (or even 0.75A with a very simple modification).
Thanks James, hopefully some folks will try it from your post.
A superbly informative video Charlie -I probably won't be mentioning the cost of booster, Alpha Meter, PSX4 etc to my wife (two wires my elbow!)
Paul (West Pennard)
A good move Paul!
Thank you for another great video always a very enjoyable informative and easy to follow watch, Thank you for given us the heads up on the dcc specialities PSX1 Iam looking into buying one ASAP apart from having a end of bus filter i had no protection againest power surges etc i have learnt a great deal from watchibg your videos so thank you again for sharing your knowledge All the best
What a heart warming comment peter. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Another fascinating stream Charlie. Keep up the good work and stay safe
Thanks Gordon, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
With the psx you can get terminal blocks on board and run wire to panel board with LEDS so when you get an overload ( I don't use shorts because everyone starts looking for a short not an overload such as 6 sound engines with current keepers all coming on at same time which will trip a 3amp rating) , or you can add a tone maker(?) to each board so it gives you an audible if you have an overload . See circle on psx board ? These are a great help telling you you have an overload ( you no longer get audible from main brain) and where it is.
I love those volt meters but can't afford at this time.
Great video good explanation of things. Thanks Charlie! Sorry to here you blew you power brain good luck with digitrax fixing. They said when they started supplying their new systems they would fix as parts lasted.
Thanks for the great comment Bob. The complexity of DCC can certainly be a challenge to us all. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, before you send the DCS100 back, you might want to check with a multimeter set to DC, the voltage between the ground terminal and rail A, then ground and rail B. The two should be around the same and around half the desired track voltage. I assume that you have checked the AC supply output is kicking out the right voltage. All the best, George.
Yes I have checked the input supply George, but I will certainly take your advice. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, great video, I am still on analog totally, I do have the odd headache but it seems to run ok,I use mostly solid copper wire with some lighter droppers, I do like the idea of your system,one day maybe when the budget allows, stay safe and keep well, cheers
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Jed.
Cracking video as usual.
I'm just planning my wiring and control at the moment and this helped answer a few questions.
That’s great news Christopher, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
Perfect timing for me too. Almost finished the boards on my continuous running three track plus branch layout. Was beginning to ponder the power district issue.
Just wanted to say that I really enjoy your videos Charlie.
What a heart warming comment Roy. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Once again Charlie A very useful Video as I'm rewiring my Layout mainly to build a Mimic board
but i do have Four blocks fed off Four Switches so i can isolate sections for Fault finding.
Looking to go full automation in the near future need to do more overtime me thinks.
As to the incline i use the inbuilt one on my Old iphone
Keep up the Great Work Love the new 3 a month format
I’m so pleased that you’re still enjoying the channel Chris. Take care me old mate regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie. Another really helpful video. Tony
I’m so pleased to hear it Tony. Regards Charlie
I was worried as I hadn’t seen an update and just as I’m planning my own layout and begin to look at how to power it this videos drops.
Timing is everything Philip. I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
I look forward to your video`s Charlie, but this one was as clear as mud lol, Ive just got O gauge garden railway with radio control loco, so this went over my head, but so entertaining.
Sadly Les, I can’t please everyone and this video clearly wasn’t for you. Hayhoe perhaps the next one will. Regards Charlie
Fantastic video, Charlie!
Thanks Paul, regards Charlie
I'm thinking of setting up a layout. DC to start and then we'll see how it goes. I enjoy your videos nonetheless. Lots of good Information here. I have subscribed to your channel. Thanks for all your hard work.
Thanks David, it’s great to have you on board. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, great video as always, I am liking the education on DCC and associated equipment. It would have been interesting to see either a multimeter voltage reading on both the power outputs to see if there was a difference on the meter or if you swapped the alpha meters over just to check their calibration! Just a thought.
Valid points Kevin. I shall take a look, regards Charlie
Thanks for another great & informative video Charlie.
Thanks Rob, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie.
Very informative Charlie 👍🏻 That Western brake away was funny but could of turned out worse with those coaches rushing back down the helix 😩 Have a great weekend cheers Stevie 😎
I’m so pleased that you found the funny side as well Stevie. Regards Charlie
I marked the other day in my Future layout considerations file "Digitrax seems good" after watching a bunch of videos from people who use digitrax because currently I have no space for a layout but I want to have one some day before I die. After watching this video I added "Alphameter" to that file
A great item to add to your list.
Hi Charlie, Another great video. I've just looked at the voltage output for the DCS240 in the manual (yes I do read them) It says on page 25. "The DCS240 can only OUTPUT approximately as much voltage as it is
receiving. If you are only using a 15V DC power supply the DCS240 cannot output more than 15V DC. Use a power supply that approximates your planned track voltage." I would guess that you have a 12 volt DC power supply attached and your DCS240 is working fine. Regards, David.
The DCS 100 would still only output 12.3 V with a 15 V input. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway The manual for the DCS 100 advises to check the voltage unloaded, I'm sure you have read the manual. I presume you have checked your DC supply is good and not dropping under load. Regards, David.
I use the PSX devices on my NCE layout (8 districts). I also have an RRampMeter by DCC Specialtie, which is similar to the DCC Concepts device. I use it with my programming track, but I could follow your lead and use it on the layout.
Great information James, thank you. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, sorry to hear the controller blew at the end of the video. I would have thought that such an expensive bit of kit would have had some form of protection such as a rectifier should someone accidently use AC instead of DC supplies. Hope you get it fixed in good time.
Again, a very informative and educational video. I do find the electronic side of model railways interesting.
Yes Malcolm sadly the controller wasn’t Charlie proof!
Hello Charlie, have you heard of or used 'Wago' connector blocks? A quick and easy for connecting and disconnecting wires.
Yes Michael, I have heard of them and seen photos of them but I’ve never held them in my hands. They do seem like a useful Quickrelease solution to wiring. Regards Charlie
excellent video Charlie, model railways can be classed as a highly skilled hobby these days; I was wondering if anyone has ever added Model Railways to their CV?
with planning, both on paper and PC, joinery, electronics and fault finding, decoders and programming, structure building and scenery. to the uninitiated it might look strange, as an engineer myself I think it could help.
maybe I've not watched enough of your videos yet , did you get the digitrax units repaired?
Thanks for a great comment Shane. Yes I have had those items repaired. Regards, Charlie.
Oh my gawd. It was another great vid Charlie but I cannot wait to get myself in a mucking fuddle with the wiring.😂
At least you’re looking forward to it Clive. Regards Charlie
A very informative video, thanks. I may look in to getting an Alpha metre it does look like a useful bit of kit though my DCC command centre does have an Amp display in the corner of its touch screen.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Rob. Regards Charlie
The NCE equivalent of the PSX1 is the EB1 circuit breaker. It is solid state like the PSX1 and a bit cheaper, although it only supports up to 8 amps.
Thanks for the info Mark.
Hi Charlie
I always watch and look forward to your videos every two weeks and find them a great help and the way you present them holds complete attention up until the end of the video, even my wife who has no interest in model railways watches (some) of your videos and even says Hi Charlie; however, I was concerned when you said the largest wire size you used was 0.75mm2 (24/0.2), which is rated at 4.5A. If your command station / booster is set for 5A the wire is not protected under unforeseen fault conditions. IEEE state even for low voltage applications which includes model railways the minimum current rating of the wire should be 20 - 25% greater than the protection device. If the command station / booster cut-out is set for 5A the DCC bus minimum wire size should be 1.0mm2 (32/0.2) which is a 6A wire (see manufactures data sheets and the railwayscenics web site) i.e. 5A x 1.2 = 6A. This then provides full protection of the wire under UK regulations. When using DCOs the minimum wire size can be reduced between the DCO and track according to the DCO cut-out setting i.e. 3A cut-out use a minimum wire size 0.75mm2 (24/0.2) which is a 4.5A wire, 2A cut-out use a minimum wire size 0.5mm2 (16/0.2) which is a 3.0A wire etc. The solder connection to the track can be considered as chassis wiring and it is OK to use a short say 50 - 100mm smaller wire (I use 0.5mm2 (16/0.2) for track connections), that connects to a larger dropper wire this ensures any heat generated from the wire can be dissipated through the track and the adjoining larger wire. In reality it is unlikely that in a model railway’s normal operation any problems would be experienced using 24/0.2 and 16/0.2 wires, but an unforeseen fault that causes an excessive current draw could result in the wires running (very) hot if the wire is rated less than the protection device.
Hope this is useful for you when wiring your extension boards.
What an outstanding comment Graham, extremely useful thank you. Regards Charlie
Very informative Charlie I’m currently building a new layout I think I’ll be investing in the psx .
A good move Andrew.
Hi Charlie, your a hive of information towards my layout. Also directing us to other wonderful RUclips sites, do you know when McKinley is going to post another screening, not that I'm bored with yours. It's a modellers dream layout
Regards Simon Thomson
Hi Simon, we are just waiting for safer times! Roll out the jabs!
HI Charlie, if your users have Brave or Google Chrome, and either adjust settings (Brave) or add Adblock plus (Chrome) they will not have to suffer from adverts interrupting the videos. I never have any ads interrupting your videos.
But surely without sponsorship, RUclips would collapse.