Great video again, Charlie! Will watch this multiple times again when laying tracks. All the little tips and tricks are so useful indeed! Boxes to tick: Dremel, Glue that allows errors (Copydex), charge the hand hoover, go to gym before crawling under boards... Thank you so much!
Good to see trains running at Chadwick. “Change is the only constant you can rely on” is about the only true advice I have been given. We modellers to like to keep proving this is so!
I learn something with almost every episode. Your fix to the broken frog wire just would not have stirred my old grey cells at all. So many thanks Charlie from both me and the landfill site that won't now feature so many ruined points!
Wonderful inspiration Charlie, as always. However, I've been chatting with some other Charlie Bishop fans and we are agreed that we shall have to come over and HANDCUFF you whenever you have a tube of Copydex in your hand. In our humble opinions we think that you should trial run your siding and block detection with some of your locos, carriages, DMUs and wagons BEFORE committing to sticking down the points. Naughty Boy. Someone also mentioned that Margaret might supervise your vacuuming skills - you have created quite a bit of sawdust today! Lots of love to you and Margaret. Keep warm and above all keep safe and well. (On behalf of all your Patrons, Subscribers and Followers - we love you Charlie Bishop)
John, I’m absolutely speechless. Margaret and I both chuckled at this comment. I shall have to be a little more cautious with my glues! Regards Charlie
Charlie, this one's a classic in your best "how to" tradition! To see how to do these bread-and-butter layout setup/modification tasks is worth gold to us less experienced viewers. Thank you.
For some reason, the few seconds of you explaining end-of-the line block detection at 26:52 made more sense than many half hour videos I have watched. Thanks for that!
Hi Charlie, You do realise you will never get the layout finished if you keep changing things! But a good video to help us when we keep getting it wrong! Regards Mike at chapel house model railway,
The concept of a "finished layout" is something not found in reality! Since I "finished" mine the changes have come thick and fast. E.g. a new water tower kit became available. An area of scenery just didn't look quite right, acceptable but not right, so out it comes and is replaced. Doubtless other changes will come. My wiring is dreadful so one day I may rip it out and start again.
I'd completely forgotten Copydex (which I think I came across at Junior School in the 70s as well as Marvin PVA) until I watched an older video of yours which gave me a rather Proustian moment when you evoked the fishy smell and the memory of it came flooding back. Watching the track work tonight with headphones on (as my better half has trundled up the wooden hill to Bedfordshire, which is odd as we live in a Bungalow), I must say that listening to a Dremel this way is just too evocative of root canal work! Nice to see the nitty gritty of changes to the layout though and I must say I am glad I invested in Anyrail some time ago. Have a great weekend Sir.
I understand the stopping device as you showed to stop the DMU by the buffer on the bay platform end when shuttling from terminus to terminus. The isolating stop at the other terminus must be a suitable distance from the buffer to allow the length of train you desire to fit in. If you send the DMU out and around the helix and back to the bay platform, the other end of the DMU approaches the buffer first and won't stop. Having the power pickups in the middle of the DMU would be the best solution then the auto stop could be about half way along the platform and all the DMU sets were of similar length. My Beatles Eurostar does an out of station run, around a loop (under the channel), past the AR-1 and back to the station. I get to enjoy the graphics on both sides! Thank you for your great videos Charlie.
That short piece of isolated track on the new DMU siding surely needs to be long enough to hold the entire wheelbase of a 4 axle locomotive in order to stop the train? Charlie, I need further explanation, and thank you in advance.
Every axel of my DMU has pick-ups. Therefore, I shouldn’t have a problem. However, I will be testing on Monday to check out that it stops with either car leading. Regards Charlie.
I would call that a Warts N All video Charlie as it clearly demonstrates that nothing is ever quite as easy or simple as some would tell us. Basic stuff certainly but exactly what we do with most of our track laying. So, and as usual, informative , easy to follow and that extra little spark that only you offer.
Charlie, if you drill out the hole on the mounting template to the same diameter as the hole through the baseboard and push a snug fitting dowel through the baseboard hole, you can locate the template on the protruding dowel and ensure perfect alignment.
Circuitron are now making a tortoise with integrated decoder, which helps reduce clutter on the undeside (a higher price per unit but no need for separate DS64 controller if on digitrax). I've installed my first 3 of umpteen and I can wholehartedly agree with your quote: "Good point work is hard work". There's a lot of extra stuff to figure out that's not in the instructions for the point motors. I ended up buying piano wire to replace the actuation bar/wire on the point motor because the points weren't fully closing (look up youtube videos on this subject if you're having the same problem). Good vid as always, Charlie. Keep up the great work!
I have done exactly the same Chris. The hole needed drilling out a bit on the drive mechanism though. I believe the new ones are "Snails", very apt. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes... Snail in logo but 'Smail' in name (Slow Motion Actuator with Integrated Logic). I'm guessing this was a name they came up with over a beer or two. The piano wire is sold by some model railroading outlets, but it's just as easy to order from a piano servicing outlet. Rolled up wire needed straightening with a drill and vice, which was fun.
Yes, I was poised to buy a load of Tortoise motors but spotted the DCC Concepts Cobalt IP which - like the one Chris mentions - has a built in decoder which makes the whole solution a lot more elegant and overall the price comes out around the same due to not having to have separate decoders. Been testing it and all seems well - so going that route now.
Hello Charlie, Great video as always! I agree 100% that point work is hard work and a something which can quite literally break a layout. I liked your reference to the flow of coaches over points, have seen some layouts in the past, where indeed the flow seemed a little odd, and it is one of those things when you see it, you can't unsee it! It is great seeing how Chadwick has evolved and is still evolving and looking forward to the next video! Stay safe & keep up the good work!! Derek.
Love your use of a mirror to check track and switch alignment. I use an oversized dental mirror with extendable handle. Comes in very handy in track laying.
My main reason for using it was to avoid pinning down my track with either screws or pins.Therefore reducing the noise transmission from the track into the baseboard.
Another very useful video. I have just bought a house in the country, and now have a large garage that I will put the layout in. So I will have to now cut track and insert points to facilitate the growth of the layout. My current set up is 11' long, and 5' wide, and will now become a town. I will then run the railway the length of the garage, and plonk another 11x5 unit down there as another town so that I have a point to point railway with actual destinations. I will use train detectors from DCC concepts to make a block signalling system for the run, so the trains will shuttle automatically, leaving me to do the yard work and shunter puzzles.
I might hang on for awhile Peter. There is a lot more to block detection than you might be aware of. Train Controller and iTrain offer some wonderful facilities. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I have jumped the gun there somewhat, I have the DCC concepts Legacy LM-ID detectors, several pairs, but I also use the ESU command station, and remote cab control. From reading the blurb, it seems with these detectors, I can set up shuttling with the ESU command station. We shall see if that works. I will also look at the Train Controller and iTrain as well.
A great deal of skill (and patience!) is involved to make this all look relatively simple, but it is really useful to see how it should be done. As said by others, shall keep this very close at hand when attempting to replicate. Thanks, as ever, for the guidance.
Spot on with your comments Charlie, "good point work". I feel for you working under the base boards I am currently having issues with knees and shoulder (getting older not all its cracked out to be lol). Thanks for sharing a pleasure to watch, please take care and stay safe..
Nice to watch someone have a good work out - yet another skill to learn in this hobby! One hundred percent with you on getting the track right and using medium or large radii where you can, it's always space permitting. Surprised you didn't, weight the track whilst glue going off. Very helpful video and nice rewarding tweaks to your layout. Stephen
Thanks for sharing Charlie. I agree if you don't get the point work right you just have a lot of derailing but some that can be caused by the backs to backs on rolling stock. If I used glue to fix the track down. I would off save all that time pinning and the continuous noise going through to the neighbours both side when I am pining track down. My late neighbour said all the time your always banging. 😀👍
For laying over the fiddle yards, you might want to hang an eyeball around shops that supply children's things (In the US, that would be Target or the like) and look for foam floor mats. These are a sponge foam about 25mm thick that you interlock together to cover a play floor. Thing is, these are less-expensive. Pack of 0.5m square mats is $20-25. So, nothing expensive to sweat over, like a person might with a memory-foam camping, mat, for instance.
Totally agree. In the UK Halfords have packs of 10 for garage use which are actually too light but perfect for model rooms and sure do save the knees and feet when standing for a while. 🙂
Hi Charlie, I find you and Richard from Everard Junction to be 2 of the most informative and dare I say useful people when it comes to model railways. I recently have come back to my old Hornby DC models I had when I was a child (and now my 5 year old son is fascinated by them too). I am gearing up to start a loft layout and have been using yours and Richards videos to build up my knowledge and confidnce to begin. Thanks for the work!
Excellent video Tony. I admire the way you are able to carefully line up the rails following replacing the points. I cannot wait to see what it will all look like once the station is finished.
Excellent step by step coverage as always Charlie, many thanks. Your videos have a very high standard of lighting and the sound is also very good, making for absorbing and clear presentation. The layout is a work of engineering art.
Thank you again for another good humoured and interesting presentation Charlie, have you ever considered putting a trackbed next to the bay line at platform 3, it would give the impression that there was once a line there to run round the branch train in steam days and before DMUs, it could have a trackless dirty ballast look which was a common site with track rationalisation, just an idea for the small space by the side of the incline, please take this as an idea and not interference Charlie as I rate your layout and ideas very highly, take care and looking forward to your next presentation.
Enjoyable as always Charlie. Your right about getting points laid properly which is even more important in the smaller scales. Where would we be without copydex - I've used it to lay my track on the two Helixes I've just installed on my own layout - godsend as so easy to lift if the track needed adjustments - downside is the smell lol. Take care. Cheers Euan
Thanks Charlie brilliant video as per usual 👍 It’s one of those boring zzzzzzzzz’s jobs that we all have to do but at least l had your soothing voice-over running in the background as l nodded off eating my breakfast 🍳 😳😆😎
Hi Charlie, We all enjoy your great presentations and however experienced one may be its never too late to be reminded of the best tips and methods to use. I moved over to using ‘Copydex’ about 6 years ago and have reaped the benefits, with the need to vary some track configurations on my amended layout, after the house move in 2021. When I’m weighing down newly installed track and points I use three or four oblong shaped ‘failed’ laptop batteries along the run of track on top of a 5mm ply strip. This avoids using the more precious books, for the 1/2 hour or so needed for the glue to set. Just an idea that works for me! Your videos have inspired me to install a helix too with great design advice & support from your preferred supplier. Happy Modelling, T🚂
You do make it look easy! Copydex is of course a flashback to our collective schooldays! Thanks for the advance warning for the road trip I’ll ask the wife to prepare a packed lunch!
Evening Charlie. Was that a little picture from your grandchildren in the background 😀 Yes good track work is essential for smooth running as you’ve just demonstrated with the DMU and the Pullman 😃 My layout has been pulled up yet again as we’re moving house on Friday 🙄 On a positive note I’ve got the west coast main line in my back garden just north of Preston. So real trains every day lol 😆 Looking forward to your next trip out Charlie 😀 Take care as always cheers Stevie.
Hi Stevie, actually the drawings are from the children of Subscriber. We met up at the South Devon Railway earlier this year and had a great steam ride together. Regards Charlie
Enjoyed your video Charlie. Something you have to watch using copydex when laying track. Do not put it near the moving parts yes but do not put it where you intend to drill a hole for you feed or frog wires. It ends up wrapped all round your drill bit, don't ask how I know this...lol
A nice example of replacing & adding on Peco track, Charlie. The only downside was that every time you used the Dremel, my teeth hurt! lol! Your plank & cover for the fiddle yard gave me an idea. I can glue some comfortable foam to plywood and some vinyl or other slippery material on top of that. Or maybe there's a nice vinyl seat pad online that would work. Good stuff!
Well done again Charlie Always little tips to make things a little easier. Sympathize with getting under the board! No easy hints for getting back out? Many thanks Howard
Found this relaxing to watch Charlie. Good tip about using a mirror to check correct fishplate alignment. I'd probably use a cushion to lean on under the layout, rather than a hard piece of board though... By the way, do you plan to use any PECO bullhead track on other parts of your layout, as you get round to building them?
It is good to see a well-designed track plan still getting a mod done here and there. Especially as other ideas or problems become known further into the build. This is a good example of one of those times and handled with the knowledge that things can be changed later without too much hassle. Well, if one doesn't count getting in and out of small tight spots under the baseboards. Thank goodness for us you are not a true cultural Scotsman who likes to wear Kilts, LOL. Non the less an excellent work out for you and on the layout to enhance train movement.
Hi Charlie, so amazed to see you using my tip about the mirror! And what a clever hint about the fishplate engagement...... we've all had that struggle, especially in N gauge. Merry Christmas everyone and stay safe folks! Alan.
Hi Charlie, excellent video now the track is down your modification makes perfect sense. should look rally good with the platforms in place and the surrounding scenery. A always stay safe
Great video Charlie, changing points in existing trackwork is always a challenge and as you said the changes add to the realism, many thanks from down under in Wairoa New Zealand
Hi Charlie, good beginner's videos always worth airing. When you tested the Tortoise on the crossover only the new point moved. I would tend to make these simple crossovers points operate together (I guess it's because I use a panel rather than the controller for accessories) kutgw, Bob
More interesting and informative stuff! Thanks. I have seen various options for running the wires and bus at the front / on the front fascia for disabled / OAP access. But that never fixes the point motor issue. Perhaps you can solve that for all of us over the next few years!!
Loved this one Charlie, I do like it when you are chopping track. It's when you crawl under the base board you realize you should have started 20 years ago, :)
Charlie, good dit, as ever. Can you remind me where you got that large cutting disc for the dremel. I've got some track adjustments to make and that large cutting disc looks like it does a perfect job.
Charlie, you make it look easy, which it isn't (unless I'm doing it all wrong, LOL). I too have discovered a bigger throw hole helps with tortoise point motors. I think the wiring is the easy bit, but getting the throw to work right is my biggest issue, I've found the template isn't always right, and have started to put double sided sticky tape on the top of tortoise as I maneuver it into place before screwing it down.
Hi, great video. Thanks for sharing Charlie. Just one small comment on the double slip switch removal. I had to dismantle quite some points on my layout, because I riped off an entire section, to build a larger one. Don't know if this works wih Copydex, but before using the spatula underneath the point, I soak it with isopropyl alcohol. In my case, I'm using a kind of general purpose construction glue, typically known as "liquid nails". It gives a good bond, but it softens enough to lift out the point (or any other type of track of course), without too much effort or stress. Cheers, António
As always, very informative and relaxing video Charlie. When I set out building the UK outline section of my layout, trying to run before I could walk, I combined SMP track with Code 75 Peco turnouts and double-slips. The end result was very nice BUT the work involved getting the rail height perfectly aligned was fun (not). My mental approach became one of the mantra that in real life, track laying isnt a 5 minute exercise, so I took my time and did it properly, getting into a rhythm over time (I even watched some of the BMF 'Points Arising' episodes on DVD for relaxation and to get some inspiration. For the continental side of my layout, I went straight to Fleischmann Profi track!. Cheers
I couldn’t agree more Paul. Track and point laying is never as simple as people might think. I tend to do the difficult bits in the morning when I’m more focused. Regards Charlie
Found this video very beneficial, thank you Charlie. I am in the process of changing my double slip as well, as I made the beginners' mistake of using the small points which de rail more often than not. As my layout is N gauge its a tad more fiddly but with new medium and large points and a re adjusting of the line I'm hoping it will work much better. Thanks again for a timely video.
Rivetting stuff Charlie, you make complex things doable, (is that a word? ) for the less switched on amongst us. Keep up the good work buddy and as it is that time again, Merry Christmas to you and yours, stay safe. Who knows, Santa may bring you additions to your stock. :).
Very informative, thanks. Liked the idea of tacking the point motor template to the underside of the board to ensure the hole is central, but how do you ensure the motor is in line with the track above so that the armature wire operates at right angles to the track rather than at an angle?
@@ChadwickModelRailway Like you Charlie i lay the template on top but i then drill the fixing holes using a 1.5mm drill from the top, the 1.5mm holes are used as a starter hole on the underside . It works every time ..
"I was a bit heavy handed with the Copydex" - we've all had nights like that.. Another interesting video, Charlie. How many times have you banged your head under the board?
Nice job done Charlie. That simple track laying of mine took half a day. Sure takes longer than you think. On yours Charlie where you put the medium point in did you give it a thought about a long Y point. Just may have fitted a little better...( just me thinking ). Cheers Allan.
Thanks Charlie, some good tips there. I use DCC Concepts Cobalt iP Digital point motors at Pevenbourne, one of the “challenges” (aka problems !) I have is getting the holes in exactly the right place to fix the motors under the board. I think I’m going to try and make a template like the one from Tortoise as there doesn’t seem to be an equivalent for the Cobalt iP Digital motors. Take care Charlie, looking forward to seeing where we’re going in the car next week !
There is one, it is part of DCW-TMP2. However a bit pricy for the kit so I made mine out of a clear CD case cover Bryan. I lay it on top of the point and drill four holes down from the top. Simple case of then going under the board and screwing the motor in place. No faffing about under the board. If you scribe a centre line on the clear plastic as well it ensures that the four holes are bang square, not so easy to do from the underside.
@@scottb1167 Thanks for that Scott. That’s a great idea, I’ve got some old CD Cases, I’ll give that a go. And that’s exactly what I was thinking to do, drill down from above using a vertical drill guide to make sure the holes stay true, hopefully then just a simple case to screw the point motor under the board and get it better aligned than what I’ve been able to achieve working upside down !
Have you thought about Copydexing some cheap foam garden kneeling pads to either side of that plywood board you were leaning on? Might be less abusive on your back and spread the weight more over the board/track that you're resting it on. I think you'd have to be careful placing it though, the extra friction would stop it from sliding easily. Regards, Steve.
Hi Charlie, great video as always, nice to know you are human with that slight hic-up with the wiring. Good to see that you are fit enough to get under you layout and get out again. Digressing for a moment, I wonder if I could impose upon you with a request. I have a friend here in Australia who has been searching for sometime in an attempt to purchase a Duchess Class, Duchess of Sutherland or even a similar locomotive in Coronation Class with Smoke Deflectors fitted in LMS Maroon and with the LMS letting on the tender. It seems that it is no longer in production, so getting a new one is highly unlikely. If at anytime you happen to know anyone wishing to sell such a locomotive we would be extremely grateful if you would let us know. Cheers and Merry Christmas and all the best for 2022. Greg
Thanks Charlie, another excellent Video, liked those Pliers, especially those with the cranked Nose which look very useful, however I couldn‘t see the Maker in your list of Credits, if you recommend them perhaps you could let me know. Best Wishes for Christmas and the New Year to you and Yours.Thanks.
I agree with those below Charlie, as usual, the video is informative, entertaining and helpful. But there's no such think as a "Frog" in railway track speak, it's called a "Common Crossing".
Thanks Charlie. The plywood board idea is helpful as I need to climb on top of my main layout to join two rails at the back of my upper level. Reason due to bad access planning. I've hesitated as I didn't want to damage the track, so I guess you found using the plywood to lie on didn't distort anything on the fiddle yard? And I'll save a couple of pillows! Oh - what thickness is the board you used please? Thanks yet again
Hi Ian, It was a piece of 6mm ply. I have a good mind to get a bigger piece cut, to go right against the back wall to help spread the load. No damage at all to the layout, just my ego, getting up! Go careful buddy. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Rather than laying the ply on the tracks is there room to fix spacers to the ply that would fit between the tracks so the weight is taken by the baseboard?
Nice video Charlie. Yes good trackwork/track laying especially points is really important so your spot on their with that comment. I shal be adding point motors soon so what would you recommend? - Nicholas.
I’ve got a copy of RailModeller which is available for the Mac, can’t say I’ve got to the bottom of everything it does yet but it is pretty good so far. Has a demo version as well, so you can try before you buy. But like all specialised tools, you need to put the time in to learn how to use it properly…
I can just imagine you on xmas day ready to carve the turkey.............. now where's that dremel 😀😀😀👍 another great informative upload Charlie . Atb phil @ charlemont Parkway 👍👍
You do the same as me, running your finger over the joint to see if the fishplates are on properly and the top of the rail is smooth. Except in my case it is generally followed by f***k as they don't!
Hello Charlie Thanks for yet another interesting and informative video. Some while back you did the video of how to improve your Peco points, I am now at this stage in building my layout, but cannot seem to find the said video. Do you know the link for it please. Simon
Charlie, next time you need to work, laying on the lower layer, I suggest you raise the plywood board an inch or so, so it's not laying directly on your trackwork. Fantastic job, as always!
@@ChadwickModelRailway 1/2 inch plywood (or however thick is required to raise above rail top) - it sits in the places between the tracks, and raises the main "bed" above the tracks. You'd need 3, about 1 inch wide I'd think - one front, one back and one towards the middle.
Charlie, Thank you, another interesting video full of tips. I really like the use of the mirror to check the other side of the track. I would have no hope of getting in, or out of under your track. You still have some flexibility left. Well done, and stay safe, Michael
Hi There Charlie, another great video clip, thank you. May I suggest you do an episode on what your layout moda operandi is. You spoke in this epidote about how the DMU might head up to the branchline or it run around the layout down through the fiddle yard and back up again. Do you have an actual operating plan in mind or is it more of a conceptual option at this time? Keep up the great work.
I do have an M O. I’d rather not go into that at this stage. I have many trains unseen up to now, that will bring much variation to Chadwick. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, fair enough. As a predominately model railway operator across a variety of scales and prototypes, your track plan naturally intrigues me from the operational aspect so look forward to the day you start to reveal all which I suspect may be sometime away... Compliments of the Season to you and all your followers, BRgds Brent
I've got 2 x 4' x 18" boards and I'm laying an n gauge layout. Try as I might to make sure points are not over any bracing, I've still got point motors that won't fit unless I cut the bracing (Cobalts - they are quite big). I've lifted the track and relaid it twice and I'm completely at my wits end to the point where trying to lift a not inexpensive three way point I managed to break it. Don't get me started on insulated fishplates! The layout is now in a cupboard. I enjoy your videos but I'm not sure I'm cut out for all of this....I think I'll just live vicariously. Seems easier.
I suggest you contact DCC Concepts. Ask to speak with Richard Brighton. He may advise you on a special linkage for your cobalts avoiding your bracing. Regards Charlie.
![The Complete Story of Destiny! From origins to Shadowkeep [Timeline and Lore explained]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9mbDXvDNqTU/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video again, Charlie! Will watch this multiple times again when laying tracks. All the little tips and tricks are so useful indeed!
Boxes to tick: Dremel, Glue that allows errors (Copydex), charge the hand hoover, go to gym before crawling under boards...
Thank you so much!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it TM. Regards Charlie
Everard Junction yesterday And Chadwick today ,we are definitely spoiled in How to do it Properly.
🇮🇪🇪🇺
That’s very kind of you to say so Derek. Regards Charlie
Good to see trains running at Chadwick. “Change is the only constant you can rely on” is about the only true advice I have been given. We modellers to like to keep proving this is so!
Change is a sin, we are terrible sinners!
Regards Charlie 😇
I learn something with almost every episode. Your fix to the broken frog wire just would not have stirred my old grey cells at all. So many thanks Charlie from both me and the landfill site that won't now feature so many ruined points!
Don’t worry Gary, I’ve made a hash of many points before I realised that soldering to the inside of the frog was an option. Regards Charlie
Wonderful inspiration Charlie, as always.
However, I've been chatting with some other Charlie Bishop fans and we are agreed that we shall have to come over and HANDCUFF you whenever you have a tube of Copydex in your hand. In our humble opinions we think that you should trial run your siding and block detection with some of your locos, carriages, DMUs and wagons BEFORE committing to sticking down the points. Naughty Boy.
Someone also mentioned that Margaret might supervise your vacuuming skills - you have created quite a bit of sawdust today!
Lots of love to you and Margaret. Keep warm and above all keep safe and well.
(On behalf of all your Patrons, Subscribers and Followers - we love you Charlie Bishop)
John, I’m absolutely speechless. Margaret and I both chuckled at this comment. I shall have to be a little more cautious with my glues! Regards Charlie
Charlie, this one's a classic in your best "how to" tradition! To see how to do these bread-and-butter layout setup/modification tasks is worth gold to us less experienced viewers. Thank you.
That’s very kind of you to say so Alan. Regards Charlie
For some reason, the few seconds of you explaining end-of-the line block detection at 26:52 made more sense than many half hour videos I have watched. Thanks for that!
Here to serve DSB. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, You do realise you will never get the layout finished if you keep changing things!
But a good video to help us when we keep getting it wrong!
Regards Mike at chapel house model railway,
The concept of a "finished layout" is something not found in reality! Since I "finished" mine the changes have come thick and fast. E.g. a new water tower kit became available. An area of scenery just didn't look quite right, acceptable but not right, so out it comes and is replaced. Doubtless other changes will come. My wiring is dreadful so one day I may rip it out and start again.
Please believe me gentlemen, I will finish it one day! Or at least the track work!
I'd completely forgotten Copydex (which I think I came across at Junior School in the 70s as well as Marvin PVA) until I watched an older video of yours which gave me a rather Proustian moment when you evoked the fishy smell and the memory of it came flooding back. Watching the track work tonight with headphones on (as my better half has trundled up the wooden hill to Bedfordshire, which is odd as we live in a Bungalow), I must say that listening to a Dremel this way is just too evocative of root canal work! Nice to see the nitty gritty of changes to the layout though and I must say I am glad I invested in Anyrail some time ago. Have a great weekend Sir.
I’m so pleased that you’ve had an interesting mate. I too have a useful set of headphones! Regards Charlie
I understand the stopping device as you showed to stop the DMU by the buffer on the bay platform end when shuttling from terminus to terminus. The isolating stop at the other terminus must be a suitable distance from the buffer to allow the length of train you desire to fit in. If you send the DMU out and around the helix and back to the bay platform, the other end of the DMU approaches the buffer first and won't stop. Having the power pickups in the middle of the DMU would be the best solution then the auto stop could be about half way along the platform and all the DMU sets were of similar length.
My Beatles Eurostar does an out of station run, around a loop (under the channel), past the AR-1 and back to the station. I get to enjoy the graphics on both sides!
Thank you for your great videos Charlie.
That short piece of isolated track on the new DMU siding surely needs to be long enough to hold the entire wheelbase of a 4 axle locomotive in order to stop the train? Charlie, I need further explanation, and thank you in advance.
Every axel of my DMU has pick-ups. Therefore, I shouldn’t have a problem. However, I will be testing on Monday to check out that it stops with either car leading. Regards Charlie.
I would call that a Warts N All video Charlie as it clearly demonstrates that nothing is ever quite as easy or simple as some would tell us. Basic stuff certainly but exactly what we do with most of our track laying. So, and as usual, informative , easy to follow and that extra little spark that only you offer.
What a heartwarming comment Martin. You’re too kind mate, regards Charlie
Charlie, if you drill out the hole on the mounting template to the same diameter as the hole through the baseboard and push a snug fitting dowel through the baseboard hole, you can locate the template on the protruding dowel and ensure perfect alignment.
A good point Ian, I should also just make another from plasti-card. Regards Charlie
Shoutout to your favorite Artist. That's some artwork for the ages.
Every day is a school day Philip. Regards Charlie
Circuitron are now making a tortoise with integrated decoder, which helps reduce clutter on the undeside (a higher price per unit but no need for separate DS64 controller if on digitrax). I've installed my first 3 of umpteen and I can wholehartedly agree with your quote: "Good point work is hard work". There's a lot of extra stuff to figure out that's not in the instructions for the point motors. I ended up buying piano wire to replace the actuation bar/wire on the point motor because the points weren't fully closing (look up youtube videos on this subject if you're having the same problem). Good vid as always, Charlie. Keep up the great work!
I have done exactly the same Chris. The hole needed drilling out a bit on the drive mechanism though. I believe the new ones are "Snails", very apt.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes... Snail in logo but 'Smail' in name (Slow Motion Actuator with Integrated Logic). I'm guessing this was a name they came up with over a beer or two. The piano wire is sold by some model railroading outlets, but it's just as easy to order from a piano servicing outlet. Rolled up wire needed straightening with a drill and vice, which was fun.
Yes, I was poised to buy a load of Tortoise motors but spotted the DCC Concepts Cobalt IP which - like the one Chris mentions - has a built in decoder which makes the whole solution a lot more elegant and overall the price comes out around the same due to not having to have separate decoders. Been testing it and all seems well - so going that route now.
Hello Charlie,
Great video as always! I agree 100% that point work is hard work and a something which can quite literally break a layout. I liked your reference to the flow of coaches over points, have seen some layouts in the past, where indeed the flow seemed a little odd, and it is one of those things when you see it, you can't unsee it!
It is great seeing how Chadwick has evolved and is still evolving and looking forward to the next video! Stay safe & keep up the good work!!
Derek.
That’s very kind of you to say so Derek. Regards Charlie
Love your use of a mirror to check track and switch alignment. I use an oversized dental mirror with extendable handle. Comes in very handy in track laying.
Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased you find my little tips useful. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Definitely, Charlie. Following you from Canada.
Great work Charlie. There's something about your videos that makes them so enjoyable. Thank you.
That’s very kind of you to say so Peter. Regards Charlie
Well I wasn't convinced by your Copydex-method of track laying until I saw you lifting the double slip. You've given me something to think about!
My main reason for using it was to avoid pinning down my track with either screws or pins.Therefore reducing the noise transmission from the track into the baseboard.
Another very useful video.
I have just bought a house in the country, and now have a large garage that I will put the layout in. So I will have to now cut track and insert points to facilitate the growth of the layout.
My current set up is 11' long, and 5' wide, and will now become a town. I will then run the railway the length of the garage, and plonk another 11x5 unit down there as another town so that I have a point to point railway with actual destinations.
I will use train detectors from DCC concepts to make a block signalling system for the run, so the trains will shuttle automatically, leaving me to do the yard work and shunter puzzles.
I might hang on for awhile Peter. There is a lot more to block detection than you might be aware of. Train Controller and iTrain offer some wonderful facilities. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway
I have jumped the gun there somewhat, I have the DCC concepts Legacy LM-ID detectors, several pairs, but I also use the ESU command station, and remote cab control.
From reading the blurb, it seems with these detectors, I can set up shuttling with the ESU command station.
We shall see if that works.
I will also look at the Train Controller and iTrain as well.
A great deal of skill (and patience!) is involved to make this all look relatively simple, but it is really useful to see how it should be done. As said by others, shall keep this very close at hand when attempting to replicate. Thanks, as ever, for the guidance.
That’s very kind of you to say so Alex.
Very nice video Charlie. I don't have any under layout point motors on my layout but you make it look very simple to do.
Perhaps it looks too easy!
A very informative video there, Charlie.
I had a lot of trouble resoldering a frog wire to one of my O gauge peco points too.... a proper mare.
Are they stainless steel, they might need a special solder.
Awesome update Charlie!! Thanks again for sharing. Cheers Onno.
You’re most welcome mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie another enthralling episode full of useful and inspired information, coming along very nicely 👍
Thanks Kevin, is very kind of you to say so mate. Regards Charlie
Spot on with your comments Charlie, "good point work". I feel for you working under the base boards I am currently having issues with knees and shoulder (getting older not all its cracked out to be lol). Thanks for sharing a pleasure to watch, please take care and stay safe..
agree with the getting older bit lol, it's a real pain !!
At last, people that agree with me, age is no joke.
Very nice work. Taking your time and doing it right does make for more enjoyable operations. Thanks for sharing. Cheers - Larry.
Thanks Larry, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie
Nice to watch someone have a good work out - yet another skill to learn in this hobby! One hundred percent with you on getting the track right and using medium or large radii where you can, it's always space permitting. Surprised you didn't, weight the track whilst glue going off. Very helpful video and nice rewarding tweaks to your layout. Stephen
Thanks Stephen, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Thanks for sharing Charlie. I agree if you don't get the point work right you just have a lot of derailing but some that can be caused by the backs to backs on rolling stock. If I used glue to fix the track down. I would off save all that time pinning and the continuous noise going through to the neighbours both side when I am pining track down. My late neighbour said all the time your always banging. 😀👍
I feel for your neighbours’ pain Ian!
For laying over the fiddle yards, you might want to hang an eyeball around shops that supply children's things (In the US, that would be Target or the like) and look for foam floor mats. These are a sponge foam about 25mm thick that you interlock together to cover a play floor. Thing is, these are less-expensive. Pack of 0.5m square mats is $20-25. So, nothing expensive to sweat over, like a person might with a memory-foam camping, mat, for instance.
Totally agree. In the UK Halfords have packs of 10 for garage use which are actually too light but perfect for model rooms and sure do save the knees and feet when standing for a while. 🙂
An interesting option and worth checking out. Many thanks, regards Charlie
Seeing the DMU going over the slip switch was SO SATISFYING.
Thanks TN, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I find you and Richard from Everard Junction to be 2 of the most informative and dare I say useful people when it comes to model railways. I recently have come back to my old Hornby DC models I had when I was a child (and now my 5 year old son is fascinated by them too). I am gearing up to start a loft layout and have been using yours and Richards videos to build up my knowledge and confidnce to begin. Thanks for the work!
That’s great news. Hopefully building it together with your son will be a terrific bonding mechanism. Regards Charlie.
Excellent video Tony. I admire the way you are able to carefully line up the rails following replacing the points. I cannot wait to see what it will all look like once the station is finished.
I think we’re both looking forward to that day Alan. Regards Charlie
Excellent step by step coverage as always Charlie, many thanks. Your videos have a very high standard of lighting and the sound is also very good, making for absorbing and clear presentation. The layout is a work of engineering art.
What a heartwarming comment Chas, you’re too kind. Regards Charlie.
Nice work Charlie, likewise with others. Lots of details so hopefully will use if I ever start a new layout.
Thanks Gus, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Thank you again for another good humoured and interesting presentation Charlie, have you ever considered putting a trackbed next to the bay line at platform 3, it would give the impression that there was once a line there to run round the branch train in steam days and before DMUs, it could have a trackless dirty ballast look which was a common site with track rationalisation, just an idea for the small space by the side of the incline, please take this as an idea and not interference Charlie as I rate your layout and ideas very highly, take care and looking forward to your next presentation.
I have other plans for that area Paul! I shall leave you in suspense, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ha Ha, shall look forward to that Charlie, keep up the good work.
Enjoyable as always Charlie. Your right about getting points laid properly which is even more important in the smaller scales. Where would we be without copydex - I've used it to lay my track on the two Helixes I've just installed on my own layout - godsend as so easy to lift if the track needed adjustments - downside is the smell lol. Take care. Cheers Euan
I’m with you on this one Euan. Rubberise glues bring a great deal to the hobby. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie brilliant video as per usual 👍
It’s one of those boring zzzzzzzzz’s jobs that we all have to do but at least l had your soothing voice-over running in the background as l nodded off eating my breakfast 🍳 😳😆😎
An interesting observation, but these difficult jobs actually need to be done in the morning as well. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, you make it look so easy…all the best, Chris
Thanks Chris, you’re too kind mate. Regards Charlie
Great to see how to change in-situ points! Also, good to see the progress on the fiddle yard!!
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Gavin. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie. We are all getting older, I think I would have had to sub out the under track work to the grand kids.
Yes that sounds a very sensible idea will send in the seven-year-olds!
Hi Charlie, We all enjoy your great presentations and however experienced one may be its never too late to be reminded of the best tips and methods to use. I moved over to using ‘Copydex’ about 6 years ago and have reaped the benefits, with the need to vary some track configurations on my amended layout, after the house move in 2021. When I’m weighing down newly installed track and points I use three or four oblong shaped ‘failed’ laptop batteries along the run of track on top of a 5mm ply strip. This avoids using the more precious books, for the 1/2 hour or so needed for the glue to set. Just an idea that works for me! Your videos have inspired me to install a helix too with great design advice & support from your preferred supplier.
Happy Modelling, T🚂
Watching you lever up the slip had me holding my breath. Brave man lol. Good job as well.
I’m so pleased that you found it riveting Shane. Stay safe mate, regards Charlie
Another spot on video Charlie, concise and easy to understand, thanks
Thanks Peter, so kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie
You do make it look easy! Copydex is of course a flashback to our collective schooldays! Thanks for the advance warning for the road trip I’ll ask the wife to prepare a packed lunch!
It’s great for your offer to join me Richard.
Evening Charlie. Was that a little picture from your grandchildren in the background 😀 Yes good track work is essential for smooth running as you’ve just demonstrated with the DMU and the Pullman 😃 My layout has been pulled up yet again as we’re moving house on Friday 🙄 On a positive note I’ve got the west coast main line in my back garden just north of Preston. So real trains every day lol 😆 Looking forward to your next trip out Charlie 😀 Take care as always cheers Stevie.
Hi Stevie, actually the drawings are from the children of Subscriber. We met up at the South Devon Railway earlier this year and had a great steam ride together. Regards Charlie
Another excellent video Charlie.
I had wondered how I will eventually fit small sections of track or make modifications, and this has shown me how.
That’s great David, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Enjoyed your video Charlie. Something you have to watch using copydex when laying track. Do not put it near the moving parts yes but do not put it where you intend to drill a hole for you feed or frog wires. It ends up wrapped all round your drill bit, don't ask how I know this...lol
Don’t worry mate, I’ve done it many times!
A nice example of replacing & adding on Peco track, Charlie. The only downside was that every time you used the Dremel, my teeth hurt! lol!
Your plank & cover for the fiddle yard gave me an idea. I can glue some comfortable foam to plywood and some vinyl or other slippery material on top of that. Or maybe there's a nice vinyl seat pad online that would work. Good stuff!
I had thought of gluing foam to both sides of the board Frank.
Well done again Charlie
Always little tips to make things a little easier. Sympathize with getting under the board! No easy hints for getting back out?
Many thanks
Howard
At least the boards can be maintained without hiring a 7 year old to do it for me. Age is a terrible curse!
@@ChadwickModelRailway well said, Charlie! Ha Ha
I think Charlie should design a person lift for all us oldies , I'd make one 😂😂
@@ChadwickModelRailway Having just trapped a nerve in my back working on baseboards, I can completely agree with the comment about old age.
Another excellent video Charlie - I wish I’d seen this before I did the point work at Tileford!
Perhaps it’s still not too late! Regards Charlie.
"I hope you found that interesting" - Charlie, I always find your videos interesting. you have no worries there.
Thanks EEB, that’s very kind of you to say so.
Found this relaxing to watch Charlie. Good tip about using a mirror to check correct fishplate alignment. I'd probably use a cushion to lean on under the layout, rather than a hard piece of board though...
By the way, do you plan to use any PECO bullhead track on other parts of your layout, as you get round to building them?
No I don’t think I will use the bullhead Peter. The problem with using a cushion as you don’t spread your weight, regards Charlie
It is good to see a well-designed track plan still getting a mod done here and there. Especially as other ideas or problems become known further into the build. This is a good example of one of those times and handled with the knowledge that things can be changed later without too much hassle. Well, if one doesn't count getting in and out of small tight spots under the baseboards. Thank goodness for us you are not a true cultural Scotsman who likes to wear Kilts, LOL. Non the less an excellent work out for you and on the layout to enhance train movement.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it John, even my own “work out”.
Regards Charlie.
Credit to you Charlie. You pull off the presenter role with aplomb and would shame many of those with a crew and director behind the camera.
What heartwarming comment Chris. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, so amazed to see you using my tip about the mirror! And what a clever hint about the fishplate engagement...... we've all had that struggle, especially in N gauge. Merry Christmas everyone and stay safe folks! Alan.
So glad you’re keeping me on my toes Alan. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, excellent video now the track is down your modification makes perfect sense. should look rally good with the platforms in place and the surrounding scenery. A always stay safe
Thanks Richard, that’s very kind of you to say so mate. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie, changing points in existing trackwork is always a challenge and as you said the changes add to the realism, many thanks from down under in Wairoa New Zealand
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jed. Stay safe mate, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, good beginner's videos always worth airing.
When you tested the Tortoise on the crossover only the new point moved.
I would tend to make these simple crossovers points operate together (I guess it's because I use a panel rather than the controller for accessories)
kutgw, Bob
You’re right Bob and they will operate as a pair.
More interesting and informative stuff! Thanks. I have seen various options for running the wires and bus at the front / on the front fascia for disabled / OAP access. But that never fixes the point motor issue. Perhaps you can solve that for all of us over the next few years!!
The only other option is to hide them in buildings or hillsides. Mine would end up like Snowdonia! Regards Charlie
“Lovely”. 😂. Very interesting. Thanks.
Thanks Martyn, I’m so pleased you enjoyed it
Very informative, I have only one medium point the other 36 are all long radius but you need space.
And with it comes reliability.
Loved this one Charlie, I do like it when you are chopping track. It's when you crawl under the base board you realize you should have started 20 years ago, :)
Changing your mind is a dreadful attribute. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway You know what they say Charlie, to err is human, to foul things up completely requires a computer
Great video Charlie...I did the same on my layout but you made it look so easy. I always seem to damage the insulating fishplates which is a pain.
Perhaps you should’ve watched the time on my watch and figured out how long it really took, the best part of three days!. Regards Charlie
Charlie, good dit, as ever. Can you remind me where you got that large cutting disc for the dremel. I've got some track adjustments to make and that large cutting disc looks like it does a perfect job.
I got it from squirestools.com. However, you can’t order it online you need to ring them. Regards Charlie
Charlie, you make it look easy, which it isn't (unless I'm doing it all wrong, LOL). I too have discovered a bigger throw hole helps with tortoise point motors. I think the wiring is the easy bit, but getting the throw to work right is my biggest issue, I've found the template isn't always right, and have started to put double sided sticky tape on the top of tortoise as I maneuver it into place before screwing it down.
I interesting option mate. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie another great video , plus a drive in the next one great
Thanks John, it’s great to have you on-board mate. Regards Charlie
Hi, great video. Thanks for sharing Charlie.
Just one small comment on the double slip switch removal. I had to dismantle quite some points on my layout, because I riped off an entire section, to build a larger one. Don't know if this works wih Copydex, but before using the spatula underneath the point, I soak it with isopropyl alcohol. In my case, I'm using a kind of general purpose construction glue, typically known as "liquid nails". It gives a good bond, but it softens enough to lift out the point (or any other type of track of course), without too much effort or stress.
Cheers,
António
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Antonio, and thanks for the tip regarding lifting the points.
Regards Charlie
As always, very informative and relaxing video Charlie. When I set out building the UK outline section of my layout, trying to run before I could walk, I combined SMP track with Code 75 Peco turnouts and double-slips. The end result was very nice BUT the work involved getting the rail height perfectly aligned was fun (not). My mental approach became one of the mantra that in real life, track laying isnt a 5 minute exercise, so I took my time and did it properly, getting into a rhythm over time (I even watched some of the BMF 'Points Arising' episodes on DVD for relaxation and to get some inspiration. For the continental side of my layout, I went straight to Fleischmann Profi track!. Cheers
I couldn’t agree more Paul. Track and point laying is never as simple as people might think. I tend to do the difficult bits in the morning when I’m more focused. Regards Charlie
Another great video Charlie, one day when I start a layout I'll refer to these with all your helpful advice, brilliant 👏
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Simon.
Interesting video about optimizing your layout. This segment feels indeed more interesting. Oh and I'm really looking forward to another roadtrip 😁
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it P1184. I’m out on a recce tomorrow to see what the subject holds.
Found this video very beneficial, thank you Charlie. I am in the process of changing my double slip as well, as I made the beginners' mistake of using the small points which de rail more often than not. As my layout is N gauge its a tad more fiddly but with new medium and large points and a re adjusting of the line I'm hoping it will work much better. Thanks again for a timely video.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful mate. Regards Charlie
Rivetting stuff Charlie, you make complex things doable, (is that a word? ) for the less switched on amongst us. Keep up the good work buddy and as it is that time again, Merry Christmas to you and yours, stay safe. Who knows, Santa may bring you additions to your stock. :).
Thanks James, that's most kind and I do hope that you and your folks have a great Christmas.
Very informative, thanks. Liked the idea of tacking the point motor template to the underside of the board to ensure the hole is central, but how do you ensure the motor is in line with the track above so that the armature wire operates at right angles to the track rather than at an angle?
An excellent point Peter. I line up the frog wire and the track wires with the hole, to get pretty good alignment. Regards Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Like you Charlie i lay the template on top but i then drill the fixing holes using a 1.5mm drill from the top, the 1.5mm holes are used as a starter hole on the underside . It works every time ..
"I was a bit heavy handed with the Copydex" - we've all had nights like that.. Another interesting video, Charlie. How many times have you banged your head under the board?
Too many! Regards Charlie
Bloody good show Charlie never easy but gives us all on your great channel a heads up and that's a good thing thanks mate ! John from Chichester.
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Nice job done Charlie. That simple track laying of mine took half a day. Sure takes longer than you think.
On yours Charlie where you put the medium point in did you give it a thought about a long Y point. Just may have fitted a little better...( just me thinking ).
Cheers Allan.
If you mean the one leading to the platform 3 bay, then no a Y would have introduced an S bend into the bay
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Allan, to be perfectly honest I never even considered using a Y point, until now! Regards Charlie
Merry Christmas Charlie and family and a Happy and prosperous New Year. Please keep up the great work, it’s keeping me sane. All the very best Billy .
You're too kind William, have a great Christmas, regards Charlie
Nice work Charlie. I understand what you mean by the flow of track .it looks so much more realistic. What is on your Santa list ?
A three-car DMU!
Thanks Charlie, some good tips there. I use DCC Concepts Cobalt iP Digital point motors at Pevenbourne, one of the “challenges” (aka problems !) I have is getting the holes in exactly the right place to fix the motors under the board. I think I’m going to try and make a template like the one from Tortoise as there doesn’t seem to be an equivalent for the Cobalt iP Digital motors. Take care Charlie, looking forward to seeing where we’re going in the car next week !
Good idea Bryan. Perhaps a thin Plasti-card template would serve you well. Regards Charlie
There is one, it is part of DCW-TMP2. However a bit pricy for the kit so I made mine out of a clear CD case cover Bryan. I lay it on top of the point and drill four holes down from the top. Simple case of then going under the board and screwing the motor in place. No faffing about under the board. If you scribe a centre line on the clear plastic as well it ensures that the four holes are bang square, not so easy to do from the underside.
@@scottb1167 Thanks for that Scott. That’s a great idea, I’ve got some old CD Cases, I’ll give that a go. And that’s exactly what I was thinking to do, drill down from above using a vertical drill guide to make sure the holes stay true, hopefully then just a simple case to screw the point motor under the board and get it better aligned than what I’ve been able to achieve working upside down !
Another good information video Charlie. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thanks Mike and let’s hope we all have a great Christmas.
Great video Charlie. Funny thing is I am modifying my points at the moment. Timing couldn't be better.
Clever minds think alike Gordon!
Have you thought about Copydexing some cheap foam garden kneeling pads to either side of that plywood board you were leaning on? Might be less abusive on your back and spread the weight more over the board/track that you're resting it on. I think you'd have to be careful placing it though, the extra friction would stop it from sliding easily.
Regards,
Steve.
An interesting option Steve.
Hi Charlie, great video as always, nice to know you are human with that slight hic-up with the wiring. Good to see that you are fit enough to get under you layout and get out again. Digressing for a moment, I wonder if I could impose upon you with a request. I have a friend here in Australia who has been searching for sometime in an attempt to purchase a Duchess Class, Duchess of Sutherland or even a similar locomotive in Coronation Class with Smoke Deflectors fitted in LMS Maroon and with the LMS letting on the tender. It seems that it is no longer in production, so getting a new one is highly unlikely. If at anytime you happen to know anyone wishing to sell such a locomotive we would be extremely grateful if you would let us know. Cheers and Merry Christmas and all the best for 2022. Greg
Hi Greg,
I shall certainly keep an eye out for that loco type but with very few shows, ebay is probably the answer.
Regards Charlie
Good stuff Charlie. My Grandson is going to join up all my bus wires as he’s much more agile than I !
Is he for hire? Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks Charlie for another great video
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, another excellent Video, liked those Pliers, especially those with the cranked Nose which look very useful, however I couldn‘t see the Maker in your list of Credits, if you recommend them perhaps you could let me know. Best Wishes for Christmas and the New Year to you and Yours.Thanks.
Sorry Peter, I really can’t remember where I bought those pliers. Stay safe mate, regards Charlie
I agree with those below Charlie, as usual, the video is informative, entertaining and helpful. But there's no such think as a "Frog" in railway track speak, it's called a "Common Crossing".
Why on earth do we adopt this useless terms! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I really don't know, but it must drive a PW man crazy.
Thanks Charlie. The plywood board idea is helpful as I need to climb on top of my main layout to join two rails at the back of my upper level. Reason due to bad access planning. I've hesitated as I didn't want to damage the track, so I guess you found using the plywood to lie on didn't distort anything on the fiddle yard? And I'll save a couple of pillows! Oh - what thickness is the board you used please?
Thanks yet again
Hi Ian,
It was a piece of 6mm ply. I have a good mind to get a bigger piece cut, to go right against the back wall to help spread the load.
No damage at all to the layout, just my ego, getting up!
Go careful buddy. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Rather than laying the ply on the tracks is there room to fix spacers to the ply that would fit between the tracks so the weight is taken by the baseboard?
Nice video Charlie. Yes good trackwork/track laying especially points is really important so your spot on their with that comment. I shal be adding point motors soon so what would you recommend? - Nicholas.
I think it has to be tortoise or cobalt, but I have never used cobalt, regards Charlie
I’ve got a copy of RailModeller which is available for the Mac, can’t say I’ve got to the bottom of everything it does yet but it is pretty good so far. Has a demo version as well, so you can try before you buy. But like all specialised tools, you need to put the time in to learn how to use it properly…
That’s good news, Phil.
Hopefully there will be some tutorials on RUclips. Regards Charlie
I can just imagine you on xmas day ready to carve the turkey.............. now where's that dremel 😀😀😀👍 another great informative upload Charlie . Atb phil @ charlemont Parkway 👍👍
I must confess Phil, I laughed out loud at that one. Regards Charlie
Lots of time and effort 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks KW, much appreciated, regards, Charlie
Evening Charlie, many thanks for your help. I have now subscribed to your channel. GP Albany WA Australia
Welcome aboard Graeme. Regards Charlie
You do the same as me, running your finger over the joint to see if the fishplates are on properly and the top of the rail is smooth. Except in my case it is generally followed by f***k as they don't!
We’ve all done it Robin.
Hello Charlie
Thanks for yet another interesting and informative video. Some while back you did the video of how to improve your Peco points, I am now at this stage in building my layout, but cannot seem to find the said video. Do you know the link for it please.
Simon
I think that it’s number 74.
Regards Charlie.
Charlie, next time you need to work, laying on the lower layer, I suggest you raise the plywood board an inch or so, so it's not laying directly on your trackwork. Fantastic job, as always!
But then what goes between the baseboard and the plywood sheet?
@@ChadwickModelRailway 1/2 inch plywood (or however thick is required to raise above rail top) - it sits in the places between the tracks, and raises the main "bed" above the tracks. You'd need 3, about 1 inch wide I'd think - one front, one back and one towards the middle.
Charlie,
Thank you, another interesting video full of tips.
I really like the use of the mirror to check the other side of the track.
I would have no hope of getting in, or out of under your track. You still have some flexibility left.
Well done, and stay safe, Michael
Thanks Michael, sadly none of us are as flexible as we used to be! The limbo dancing days are long gone.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I don't know Charlie, you could still make a pretty good go at it! Who knew railway modelling could be so exercising 😂
Hi There Charlie, another great video clip, thank you. May I suggest you do an episode on what your layout moda operandi is. You spoke in this epidote about how the DMU might head up to the branchline or it run around the layout down through the fiddle yard and back up again. Do you have an actual operating plan in mind or is it more of a conceptual option at this time? Keep up the great work.
I do have an M O. I’d rather not go into that at this stage. I have many trains unseen up to now, that will bring much variation to Chadwick. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, fair enough. As a predominately model railway operator across a variety of scales and prototypes, your track plan naturally intrigues me from the operational aspect so look forward to the day you start to reveal all which I suspect may be sometime away... Compliments of the Season to you and all your followers, BRgds Brent
I've got 2 x 4' x 18" boards and I'm laying an n gauge layout. Try as I might to make sure points are not over any bracing, I've still got point motors that won't fit unless I cut the bracing (Cobalts - they are quite big). I've lifted the track and relaid it twice and I'm completely at my wits end to the point where trying to lift a not inexpensive three way point I managed to break it. Don't get me started on insulated fishplates! The layout is now in a cupboard. I enjoy your videos but I'm not sure I'm cut out for all of this....I think I'll just live vicariously. Seems easier.
I suggest you contact DCC Concepts. Ask to speak with Richard Brighton. He may advise you on a special linkage for your cobalts avoiding your bracing. Regards Charlie.
Chadwick logo would be an ideal model pathway.
I shall have to have a think about that one mate. Best wishes for 2023, regards, Charlie