Thanks for this video! I did this modification to the 4L60E in my 2005 Suburban, and it has been working perfectly for a couple of weeks now. No hard shifts, no check engine light. It does sort of make the transmission behave as they did in the older vehicles, you can feel the TCC cycling in and out at moderate speeds where I live, in hilly terrain. But the 'fix' did what it was intended to do, and I'm happy I didn't have to replace the transmission. Thanks again!
Hi Gary, thanks for the great video. About a month ago I got a component slipping code in my truck although I didn't write the code down. I then came home and started doing some research and found the 1860 1870 codes and purchased a bunch of items. I removed the valve body and changed two Sonax pinless accumulators and the forward accumulator, also the transgo TCC valve and put a couple of the transgo parts in it with a new separator plate with the new Sonnax plastic balls and put it all back together. upon test driving the vehicle it drove great but then I got the same code, 0894. I did notice a lot of discoloration in the fluid and quite a bit of powder debris on the magnet. I then used my hptuners scanner and observed excessive TCC component slippage. I then did a quick test at idle in drive with e brake and applied the lock up and the RPMs did not fluctuate at all. I again pulled the pan and did further inspection on the TCC solenoid and the solenoid is completely blocked. It is my thinking that if it is blocked then the converter would stay locked up all the time and stall the engine at lower RPMs. The transmission operates great in my 2005 truck but I am having this issue. I have now ordered a new TCC and will pull the transmission and check out the bushings in the pump like in your video here. I will probably go ahead and just rebuild the pump completely. Is there anything else you suggest and thank you.
Nice job installing those parts, Question, when you applied the solenoid what rpm slip did you see? when you drove the car at 100% duty cycle what was the slip? It should be below 10 rpm. If what you did did not fix the car, you could have a bad pump bushing or one of your stator bushing are bad(this will leak converter charge oil) or the converter itself is no good. one other thing also, the snouts tend to crack(but it cant be seen)on the TCC solenoids, you may want to try that first before getting futher into the trans
Gary Ferraro Thanks, but most importantly, thanks for replying. When I was scanning on lockup I noticed 30-300 rpm slip with extremely light load. And when applied at idle with ebrake no change in rpm whatsoever. I purchases a new tcc solenoid from Napa to study it, and found mine is completely blocked so no bypass fluid will flow through it. It is my belief that if I change it that will fix nothing. My next step from here is to remove the unit and check the parts in the pump like your video. Maybe the tcc valve in the pump is stuck. but either way I believe the TCC is toast now and that needs to be replaced while figuring out what caused that.
Your welcome, im here to help. If you can see live data, and you drive the car what is the slip rpm at 100% duty cycle? If that TCC valve in the pump was stuck it would probably stall when the car was put into drive, if your going to pull the trans pay close attention to the bushings, if all that is good converter may be the problem.
Gary Ferraro Thanks again! just so you know I changed the max Duty Cycles to 100% in hptuners and the minimum to 95% and still saw over 100-300rpm in slippage. I agree with you on the stalling but the system is not working properly. I will go ahead and order a kit to rebuild the entire front pump, a bushing kit along with a new TCC and I believe I will find the problem when I remove the unit just like you suggest.
+Brad Miller The lenght is about 1.100 inches, i usually cut it about 1.2 inches(i use my caliper) and shave it down just enough for the clip to go in(i shave off little at a time so i dont make it too short. Sorry about not putting the lenght in. It works well for me when i have that 1870 code. Gary
Great video, I have a 03 Yukon 4l60e that I rebuilt myself. I replaced all the bushings but didn’t do much with the valve body. The trans shifts perfects until lockup, it doesn’t engage or engages rarely and after two key cycles p0894 code.
Ok, bushings are new, good job on that, is there a rebuilt converter as well? did it have this code before? do you have a scanner that shows live data?
Gary Ferraro it did have a p0894 code when I acquired the truck, when I opened the case I found a worn 3 and 4 clutch pack. I reused the converter since it only had 60,000 miles on it since the last rebuild. I get intermittent tcc lockup.
I know it had a rebuild at 130k it currently has 198k and trans is rebuilt now with new frictions and steels, I think the converter is bad or a bad pwm tcc valve. I should have replaced the converter but decided not to since is had around 60k on it. Trans shifts great except for intermittent (rarely) gets lock up and p0894
Ok, first thing you may want to try is the pwm lock-up solenoid, the snouts tend to crack on them, if that doesnt work then try blocking the valve. Do you have a scanner that shows ;live data
it appears that this has the same effect as with the older models where they give you a heavier, longer spring to replace the small one, in effect locking the 2 valves at opposite ends. is that correct? and if so, do you know why they dont offer that already, in the kits, for the later models?
BOTH SHIFT SOLENOIDS ON MY 4L60E READS 22ohmS, BUT still OPERATES ON LIMP MODE (2nd gear) ONLY. NO 1ST. 3RD OR 4TH. gears. after the mechanic took it for a test we realized that trans. oil was presssure out through the dip stick barrel. and smell burnt but still mantained a red and clean texture. . what might have been the possible cause.
If the fluid is coming out of the filler tube, the vent or breather for the trans may be blocked. If this is in limp mode, there should be a code present, do you have a scan tool to check for codes?
@@GaryFerraro I use WIT kits. Or for pros that want to do it right use sonnax PN 77754-04k. It has the extra cost of the reamer but its a better solution.
I have question my 04 silverado 4l60e transmission has 1st n 2nd fine but 2nd to 3rd it slips I change the shift solniods and still slips no chk engine light do u have an idea what it is
Hi Gary, I am having some problems with my 4l60e, I was hoping you had some tips on what could maybe be the cause of it. I own a 2007 Chevy trailblazer ss AWD, it has a 2600 stall converter. on the highway at 70mph rpm is at around 3700 which seems too high, talking to a few people they said that it should be just shy of 3000rpm. once on the highway and I command the TCC to lock up it does but only drops about 200rpm to 3700rpm at 70mph. do you think it could be a bad torque converter it self or the TCC solenoid or something else? I've done a few flush and no change.
Gary thank you for sharing your knowledge I had one a 1998 4l60e that came with the P1870 code and I did this repair and it work from now on I’m gonna be doing it to all the units I build Any suggestions on the older model to correct this problem? Thank you in advance
This is awesome info! I'm curious what years you refer to by "later model" vs "early model" My 2000 Astro van has a 4L60E, just got P1870 code and have a hard 1-2 shift after long drives. I'm wondering if my valve body is the PWM or the earlier model. And why you put the brake line in the newer ones and a longer spring in the older ones?
Hi what years have that style tcc valve? I order a fitzall tcc and on the instructions shows a different tcc than the one I have such is like the one on this video
If the TCC shudder continues (No codes) after blocking this valve (used the Fitzall part) could it be a solenoid or wiring harness issue? It only happens at operation temp. 2003 Envoy w/ 237k on it. I don't know the full history of the transmission maintenance, as I've owned it since 160k, but it was an older gentleman's vehicle before me.
Hi Gary. I did this mod and after the transmission warms up. when the truck comes to a stop sign , engine dies. When you restart it and put it back on drive, it kills it right away. I just rebuilt this transmission
Mr Ferraro hope u doing fine , I just have a question I have 03 f150 4.2 engine and transmission went out , went to junk yard to get a replacement and found one on a 99 f150 I think it's a 4.6 engine on it ,think swap might work ? my transmission HAVE only one sensor at rear with a Windows letter at tail of transmission and the one at junk yard same thing, need help please
+perverso12345 Ok, so im thinking transmission type is a 4R70W(do you know how many pan bolts? if not count the bolts on your trans just want to confirm trans type)A few things have to be checked, the number of starter bolts(either 2 or 3) the lenght of the tail shaft(10.5 or 11.5 inches). Gary
my 93 has a one piece valve in it, and no spring, what should be done, thank ye! I read that the 93 is not PWM, so why the valve is even in there I dont understand.
im having an issue where I cannot get my output shaft o ring on. Im starting to wonder if the gear on the shaft for the speed sensor migrated, keeping the shaft from going in far enough.. we cant compare the old snap ring to the new one, because it shot out somewhere.. im wondering if the last builder used a thinner snap ring. im also wondering if shoddy aftermarket parts were used, that affected the tolerances.. im abt 2 mm short. thanks for any help.. we took it apart, and reassembled it 3 times, so I am pretty sure we are installing everything correctly.
the reluctor gear looks to be pressed on, and my convertor input shaft had alot of wear grooves, so im wondering if something could have been banging back and forth, and pushed the output shaft speed sensor gear forward?
+zack looney That really depends on how bad it is, the only thing you can really do is try it, if it works, great, if not may be a bad bushing or seal or even converter. Gary
Hey Gary,thanks for the videos you have helped me alot,but I have an 02 Tahoe that is driving fine for about 5 minutes and then it pops out of gear and wont move if I turn it off and wait 1 minute restart it drives like normal for another 5 minutes.do you have any suggestions.it only has about 30k since a local shop rebuilt it.Thanks
Derrick, Sounds like your filter is clogging up, the fact that you shut the car off and wait a minute then start it again is a classic sign of a clogged filter. Gary
i have a question i want your thoughts ok 4l60e throwing p1860 so i drop pan and theres no pwm solenoid hole is there its empty also no plug and looked for wires none its in a 96 k2500 do u think wire harness from pre 96 why would you remove this solenoid and what will its affects be thanks
Hey man great video! So I just had my trans rebuilt from a friend and he only did pump, torque converter and clutches I had a pump failure. But a week early I got off the turnpike and had a 1-2 hard shift then a 1870 code came up. It’s a 99 Suburban with a 4L60E. My question is can I do this brake line fix now? And fix the 1870 code? Or do I need to do the Sonnax kit with having to bore the hole bigger then install new larger valve or does this brake line trick work on the valve body I have already ?
Gary Ferraro thanks for quick response. I purchased the suburban 2 weeks ago and was told transmission was getting worn. Drove and shifted fine. Went on turnpike run for 30 minutes and go off and had a hard 1-2 shift just as you described and service engine light came on and scanned code and came back 1870 component slipping. On ride back I got almost home and it was like someone bumped me into neutral , I lost all forward / reverse and had it towed to the shop I bought it from. I was told the pump went bad and converter was damaged, he installed new front pump, new clutches and torque converter I don’t know if he did anything in valve body. I just got it back yesterday and it’s driving great but once again got on highway and it through an 1870 code and had a slight hard 1-2 shift so I cleared code last night and has been fine since. Just went out this morning and shifts smooth, properly and no issues or code. I was previously looking into the valve body fix and new the TCC valve was an issue. I wanted to drop the pan today and do this brake line fix instead of doing the bore kit from Sonnax. Think it will Work for me? Thank you so much for help!
I would certainly try this, im assuming the converter that was p[ut in was rebuilt? also the PWM TCC solenoid snout likes to crack, you cant see the crack its very slight, this will cause this code as well. The PWM TCC solenoid is located right above the the tcc solenoid the goes into the pump
I have a 01 S10 4x4 with 176,00 no problem with trans. driving to work 3rd to 4th engine reved up and trans went into limp w/code P0756. In gears 1st, Neutral, Reverse acted like stuck in forward, reverse and park. Dropped pan to replace B soleniod to my surprise there was no junk in pan, filter was not clogged. Refilled test drove and same problem. Checked fuses all good. Suggestion for my next step.
Hello, Question, are you sure its the 3-4 shift and not the 2-3 shift? Its common for the 3-4 clutch pack to go bad which would cause a flare on the 2-3 shift. The P0756 is a mechanical code, usually not the solenoid but an internal trans problem. Gary
Pretty sure 3-4 shift. if clutch pack is bad would that cause 1st, neutral and reverse act like they are in park, 2nd and drive act like they are in 2nd. If the clutch pack went bad is there any thing else for me to check. Also when in park position the engine labors.
@@GaryFerraro came with the SK 4l60e kit I am doing rebuilt an 03 my first rebuild have you ever used sonnax 2-3 hd shift valve? I combined a few sonnax and tg parts hope it's ok seems to make sense to me any other suggestions on this valvebody?
I know video is a little old but still see recent comments, if people want a part specifically for this instead of using brake line go to a site called fitzall and type in the p1870. They have a tcc valve that does exactly this with the on/off application only about $15. Planning on installing it tomorrow on a 2000 gmc sierra 1500 throwing p1870, hoping it fixes my problem so i don't have to dive into more costly repairs for an older truck
Can this be done with the trans still in the vehicle? That is to say if I drop the valve body laying under my truck after I drop the pan am I going to get into a whole another can of worms with check balls falling out etc??
There are check balls in the valvebody and one in the case(the plate will hold the one in the case) if you can come straight down with the valvebody, you can see where the checkballs go. It can be done without pulling trans
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for that. The code I keep having set is P0894 'transmission component slipping' not code p1870. 1-2-3- 4 shifts are fine. Not soft nor hard. Around 45-50 mph after it's warmed up when it goes into lockup it does that shudder... step on it a bit it pops out of lock up.. go back to normal throttle it goes back into lockup and shudders.. so it sure seems like it's that valve your mentioning in this video and the fix you suggest would work. What do you think? It's just interesting I get a different code I want to make sure I'm on the right track before I try this. Thanks again!! PS I just bought this truck 2005 Express 3500 6.0. Trans fluid looked black but did not smell burned. I wonder if there is any chance just a new filter and flush would work. Perhaps the old fluid is just too thin now that's the only problem? I know kind of hard to know from where your sitting.
@@govsux1 New filter and flush probably will not work. P0894 and P1870 mean the same thing. You could try the valvebody fix, if the code comes comes back, trans will likely have to come out. If you use this van for delivery you really need that lock-up working, without it a lot of heat will be generated.
@@GaryFerraro Okay great... thanks for the info!! I need a filter and fluid anyway so I think I'll do this while I have the pan off. I've watched two other videos now showing if you get creative with the clip you can do this without removing the valve body. Looks like a tedious PITA but I guess it's possible.
I have a 4l60e in a 99 Burban. Once it gets warmed up, when I get into over drive I notice a little jerk. Not always, but more often than not. Just had it rebuilt about three months ago, shifts fine, rides fine, just have this issue and have had for about a month. It feels as if the torque converter slips momentarily and will continue to do so, without any pattern or rhythm, until I give it a little more gas to make the converter lock up. Haven't run codes yet but could this be my problem?
Gary Ferraro it does not do it when I am on the gas, only when I let off a little to cruise or take my foot off to slow down. It only does it once I'm above 55.
Well, it could be the lock-up disengaging, this happens when you release the gas. Do you know if they did any shift kit, or any modification for lock-up?
It does it when I let off the gas or let off a little to cruise, basically it's fine when accelerating at those speeds. I had him put a transgo kit on it, the HD2 I think, corvette servo, and heavier duty clutches and bands and 5 planetary gears so it's a 4L65E now. But it shifts fine and everything other than this problem.
It does it when I let off the gas or let off a little to cruise, basically it's fine when accelerating at those speeds. I had him put a transgo kit on it, the HD2 I think, corvette servo, and heavier duty clutches and bands and 5 planetary gears so it's a 4L65E now. But it shifts fine and everything other than this problem.
Hi Gary I have a problem with a 2004 Chevy express 350 it keeps coming back with a code P0984 transmisión component slipping This is a second unit that we install completely different unit with its own valvebody and still has the come What I notice is that every time I erase the code the transmission works fine and the tcc is been commanded by the tcm but as soon as the code returned the tcc is not commanded by the tcm and the transmission has a harsh shifting on second and third gear and no lock up on the converte . Could this be the tcm going bad? Thank you in advance
@@aviator1683ok, set t scanner up to see TCC Slip RPM and TCC Duty Cycle, when tcc gets commanded on see what slip you have and let me know, slip RPM should be 10 or less
Awesome tip! Does this mod cause decreased fuel mileage? I just recently did a highway trip, and after exiting the highway, 1-2 shift seems more harsh and a tiny bit delayed... I put my code reader on it today after watching your vid, but im not getting any codes. Is this related? Or could it possibly be the 1-2 accumulator piston? Ive heard they they are prone to cracking and wearing at the pin, and can also cause 1-2 shift to be harsh... Thank you
Gary Ferraro Ya, it might not. Its an Autel AL419, so it might be too basic to pick up tranny codes... I do know a person with a good one. Maybe i can get him to scan it for codes...
Yes and let me know if any are present. This mod turns a pulsed width modulated lock up circuit into an on/off circuit. Have it scanned and let me know
I just did this about to take for a test ride . i was only getting code when i came off the highway for 20 to 30 min. Should i expect a hard shift or no?
Will that fix one that is surging the lu with no code at slow speeds , mine works fine at higher speeds on locking up the converter , this seems to be worse as the trans temps go up while driving at slower speeds , i do have PWM valve system
Hi, I'm turkey Istanbul from you I have a tool that will be a question for a 1998 model Proton brand mutsubi compatible 1600 ° engine automatic transmission problems i have transmission I have collected only tool motion does not I would be glad if you help whichever relay caused solenoid problems
Do you think this will fix p1870 in a 2000 astro with 4l60e? Perhaps temporarily, till I can invest in a rebuild? Also curious, if I could get away with reusing the old valve body gaskets? For the next 3-4 weeks or so. - otherwise I'd have to buy them twice.
If its not to far gone(converter clutch or worn bushings)it will fix the car. You can reuse the valvebody gaskets over again as long as they dont tear when taking the valvebody down.
be careful if you are working on a vehicle with multiple cylinder shut down.....tcc needs to slip a little more when dropping cylinders....great tip though....ive been using the valve from transgos sk.....going to block that valve your way and save some money......on non cylinder dropping models of course
+Jeff Stepp Thanks for watching, this tip comes directly from steve younger. I went to one of his semiars a while back, been working ok for me, sometimes when the tcc comes off, sometimes you feel it but its not bad. Are you a builder? where are you located? Gary
Yes I am a builder in mpls mn.....45 yrs young.....I went to one of steve youngers seminars...kind of boring.....he has helped me in the past over the phone....very smart
Jeff Stepp Nice to meet you Jeff, Im 48 been doing transmissions since high school, took over the family business 3 years ago. Do you like ATSG semiars? I do all the rebuilding myself, not easy to find a good builder(thats why i asked where you are located). Gary
This did not work. I ended up having to get a whole nother valve body. Cheaper than buying the oversized sonnax valve and bore. The bore bit costs about 120 by itself. I paid 80 dollars for a refurbished valve body tested. Just fix it right the first time. You are going to waste time and money trying this trick.
usually when it doesnt fix the car its to far gone or a bushing may be bad, i've had a few times where it didnt work, so we ended up doing an overhaul and found the problem internal when going through the trans, how many miles are on your car?
Unless the converter is burned up this will work every time. So if your new vb fixed it then you had something else wrong or you didn't install the brake line properly.
@@GaryFerraro it's not really a good fix. Because the valve body is not fully functioning. Causing wear on the valve body and other parts of the transmission just making blockages and passages. So anywhere we'll start building up and then passages.
@@michaelspeakman8924 The valvebodies all wear out, what this does is turn a PWM into an ON/Off so if the valvebody is worn it can still be used. other factors that would cause solenoid codes are worn bushings, TCC solenoid(snout cracks) or the converter itself. I do that fix, new bushings, new solenoid and converter and never really had a problem, I do at least 2 of these units a week
You can also use the spring with extra checkballs, put a checkball on each side of the springs put it back together.
I put two check balls one on each end of it keep the same spring!
Thanks for this video! I did this modification to the 4L60E in my 2005 Suburban, and it has been working perfectly for a couple of weeks now. No hard shifts, no check engine light.
It does sort of make the transmission behave as they did in the older vehicles, you can feel the TCC cycling in and out at moderate speeds where I live, in hilly terrain. But the 'fix' did what it was intended to do, and I'm happy I didn't have to replace the transmission.
Thanks again!
You may feel it, doing that mod turns it from a pulsed to on/off
Hi Gary, thanks for the great video. About a month ago I got a component slipping code in my truck although I didn't write the code down. I then came home and started doing some research and found the 1860 1870 codes and purchased a bunch of items. I removed the valve body and changed two Sonax pinless accumulators and the forward accumulator, also the transgo TCC valve and put a couple of the transgo parts in it with a new separator plate with the new Sonnax plastic balls and put it all back together. upon test driving the vehicle it drove great but then I got the same code, 0894. I did notice a lot of discoloration in the fluid and quite a bit of powder debris on the magnet. I then used my hptuners scanner and observed excessive TCC component slippage. I then did a quick test at idle in drive with e brake and applied the lock up and the RPMs did not fluctuate at all. I again pulled the pan and did further inspection on the TCC solenoid and the solenoid is completely blocked. It is my thinking that if it is blocked then the converter would stay locked up all the time and stall the engine at lower RPMs. The transmission operates great in my 2005 truck but I am having this issue. I have now ordered a new TCC and will pull the transmission and check out the bushings in the pump like in your video here. I will probably go ahead and just rebuild the pump completely. Is there anything else you suggest and thank you.
Nice job installing those parts, Question, when you applied the solenoid what rpm slip did you see? when you drove the car at 100% duty cycle what was the slip? It should be below 10 rpm. If what you did did not fix the car, you could have a bad pump bushing or one of your stator bushing are bad(this will leak converter charge oil) or the converter itself is no good. one other thing also, the snouts tend to crack(but it cant be seen)on the TCC solenoids, you may want to try that first before getting futher into the trans
Gary Ferraro Thanks, but most importantly, thanks for replying. When I was scanning on lockup I noticed 30-300 rpm slip with extremely light load. And when applied at idle with ebrake no change in rpm whatsoever. I purchases a new tcc solenoid from Napa to study it, and found mine is completely blocked so no bypass fluid will flow through it. It is my belief that if I change it that will fix nothing. My next step from here is to remove the unit and check the parts in the pump like your video. Maybe the tcc valve in the pump is stuck. but either way I believe the TCC is toast now and that needs to be replaced while figuring out what caused that.
Your welcome, im here to help. If you can see live data, and you drive the car what is the slip rpm at 100% duty cycle? If that TCC valve in the pump was stuck it would probably stall when the car was put into drive, if your going to pull the trans pay close attention to the bushings, if all that is good converter may be the problem.
Gary Ferraro Thanks again! just so you know I changed the max Duty Cycles to 100% in hptuners and the minimum to 95% and still saw over 100-300rpm in slippage. I agree with you on the stalling but the system is not working properly. I will go ahead and order a kit to rebuild the entire front pump, a bushing kit along with a new TCC and I believe I will find the problem when I remove the unit just like you suggest.
Good deal, keep in touch with me, let me know what you find, are you in the new york area?
You can also replace the spring they make one bigger that the original correct?
The early models you can install an inner pump slide spring, but not on the later units
How do you determine the length of the spacer? Again great video. Thanks
+Brad Miller The lenght is about 1.100 inches, i usually cut it about 1.2 inches(i use my caliper) and shave it down just enough for the clip to go in(i shave off little at a time so i dont make it too short. Sorry about not putting the lenght in. It works well for me when i have that 1870 code. Gary
Thanks for the quick reply. Have a great day!
How long is the 1/4" brake line piece?????
around 1.100 inches
I was scanning through the comments for this EXACT question to be asked. Thank you both.
Great video, I have a 03 Yukon 4l60e that I rebuilt myself. I replaced all the bushings but didn’t do much with the valve body. The trans shifts perfects until lockup, it doesn’t engage or engages rarely and after two key cycles p0894 code.
Ok, bushings are new, good job on that, is there a rebuilt converter as well? did it have this code before? do you have a scanner that shows live data?
Gary Ferraro it did have a p0894 code when I acquired the truck, when I opened the case I found a worn 3 and 4 clutch pack. I reused the converter since it only had 60,000 miles on it since the last rebuild. I get intermittent tcc lockup.
I know it had a rebuild at 130k it currently has 198k and trans is rebuilt now with new frictions and steels, I think the converter is bad or a bad pwm tcc valve. I should have replaced the converter but decided not to since is had around 60k on it. Trans shifts great except for intermittent (rarely) gets lock up and p0894
I want to try your trick with the brake line. I’ll let you know how it works out, for responding if you have any other ideas I appreciate it. THankyou
Ok, first thing you may want to try is the pwm lock-up solenoid, the snouts tend to crack on them, if that doesnt work then try blocking the valve. Do you have a scanner that shows ;live data
it appears that this has the same effect as with the older models where they give you a heavier, longer spring to replace the small one, in effect locking the 2 valves at opposite ends. is that correct? and if so, do you know why they dont offer that already, in the kits, for the later models?
I dont think they will, what is happening is your turning the system into on-off verus PWM.
You the man! Got a question....can that job be done with out pulling the vb
No, the clip is on the inside of the body
BOTH SHIFT SOLENOIDS ON MY 4L60E READS 22ohmS, BUT still OPERATES ON LIMP MODE (2nd gear) ONLY. NO 1ST. 3RD OR 4TH. gears. after the mechanic took it for a test we realized that trans. oil was presssure out through the dip stick barrel. and smell burnt but still mantained a red and clean texture. . what might have been the possible cause.
If the fluid is coming out of the filler tube, the vent or breather for the trans may be blocked. If this is in limp mode, there should be a code present, do you have a scan tool to check for codes?
I just block the long valve to the edge of the bore by dropping an extra solenoid clip in
rebuild kit comes with a larger spring just for this on 2000 and prior . it is just on or off. or use the sonnax repair kit for newer trans.
Which kit contains the spring?
@@GaryFerraro I use WIT kits. Or for pros that want to do it right use sonnax
PN 77754-04k. It has the extra cost of the reamer but its a better solution.
@@stephenr1999 Thanks for the info
@@GaryFerraro Its an honor sir. And Thanks to you. You have helped me quite a bit.
@@stephenr1999 Thank you, i'm glad to hear that
I have question my 04 silverado 4l60e transmission has 1st n 2nd fine but 2nd to 3rd it slips I change the shift solniods and still slips no chk engine light do u have an idea what it is
your 3-4 clutch is probably no good, pretty common issue
What would happen if you left it out the valve itself
No shift.
Hi Gary, I am having some problems with my 4l60e, I was hoping you had some tips on what could maybe be the cause of it. I own a 2007 Chevy trailblazer ss AWD, it has a 2600 stall converter. on the highway at 70mph rpm is at around 3700 which seems too high, talking to a few people they said that it should be just shy of 3000rpm. once on the highway and I command the TCC to lock up it does but only drops about 200rpm to 3700rpm at 70mph. do you think it could be a bad torque converter it self or the TCC solenoid or something else? I've done a few flush and no change.
Gary thank you for sharing your knowledge
I had one a 1998 4l60e that came with the P1870 code and I did this repair and it work from now on I’m gonna be doing it to all the units I build
Any suggestions on the older model to correct this problem? Thank you in advance
The early 4L60E, i put an inner slide spring inbetween the 2 valves.
Glad it worked for you
This is awesome info! I'm curious what years you refer to by "later model" vs "early model" My 2000 Astro van has a 4L60E, just got P1870 code and have a hard 1-2 shift after long drives. I'm wondering if my valve body is the PWM or the earlier model. And why you put the brake line in the newer ones and a longer spring in the older ones?
Your trans is a PWM. They changed the design of the valve and the spring will not work so I block it with the brake line
Will this work for a 2007 4l60e?
Hi what years have that style tcc valve?
I order a fitzall tcc and on the instructions shows a different tcc than the one I have such is like the one on this video
I would say from the late 90's and up
If the TCC shudder continues (No codes) after blocking this valve (used the Fitzall part) could it be a solenoid or wiring harness issue? It only happens at operation temp. 2003 Envoy w/ 237k on it. I don't know the full history of the transmission maintenance, as I've owned it since 160k, but it was an older gentleman's vehicle before me.
If it doesn't work, have another problem, worn pump or stator bushings, valvebody, solenoids, converter.
Hi Gary. I did this mod and after the transmission warms up. when the truck comes to a stop sign , engine dies. When you restart it and put it back on drive, it kills it right away. I just rebuilt this transmission
Converter may be defective, this turns it into on/off instead of PWM
Quarter inch brake line,. How long in length?
about 1.10 inches
Mr Ferraro hope u doing fine , I just have a question I have 03 f150 4.2 engine and transmission went out , went to junk yard to get a replacement and found one on a 99 f150 I think it's a 4.6 engine on it ,think swap might work ? my transmission HAVE only one sensor at rear with a Windows letter at tail of transmission and the one at junk yard same thing, need help please
+perverso12345 Ok, so im thinking transmission type is a 4R70W(do you know how many pan bolts? if not count the bolts on your trans just want to confirm trans type)A few things have to be checked, the number of starter bolts(either 2 or 3) the lenght of the tail shaft(10.5 or 11.5 inches). Gary
Thank you so much..For your brillante mind..
Will a th400 valve body work in the 4l80-e
ginger bread No. will not work. Totally different valvebody
It would help if it did!
Can I do this without removing transmission
Yes thats what im doing
my 93 has a one piece valve in it, and no spring, what should be done, thank ye! I read that the 93 is not PWM, so why the valve is even in there I dont understand.
That you can leave alone, leave it as is
@@GaryFerraro thanks so much.
im having an issue where I cannot get my output shaft o ring on. Im starting to wonder if the gear on the shaft for the speed sensor migrated, keeping the shaft from going in far enough.. we cant compare the old snap ring to the new one, because it shot out somewhere.. im wondering if the last builder used a thinner snap ring. im also wondering if shoddy aftermarket parts were used, that affected the tolerances.. im abt 2 mm short. thanks for any help.. we took it apart, and reassembled it 3 times, so I am pretty sure we are installing everything correctly.
the reluctor gear looks to be pressed on, and my convertor input shaft had alot of wear grooves, so im wondering if something could have been banging back and forth, and pushed the output shaft speed sensor gear forward?
@@randy1ization ok, so you cannot get the small snap ring in that holds the output shaft?
Is it common for the shift solenoid to go bad
Just electrically not really mechanically
@@GaryFerraro thank you. I lost my 2 3 shift out of nowhere
@@andycoslet6479 what happens it seems like it goes to neutral when it should go to 3rd?
@@GaryFerraro that's exactly what happens. There was no slipping prior to that
I have a 4l60e p0741 eny help
Will this type of fix work if I already have slipping? or will the sleeve need to be bored.
+zack looney That really depends on how bad it is, the only thing you can really do is try it, if it works, great, if not may be a bad bushing or seal or even converter. Gary
How long does the brake line need to be ?
about 1.1 inches
Hey Gary,thanks for the videos you have helped me alot,but I have an 02 Tahoe that is driving fine for about 5 minutes and then it pops out of gear and wont move if I turn it off and wait 1 minute restart it drives like normal for another 5 minutes.do you have any suggestions.it only has about 30k since a local shop rebuilt it.Thanks
Derrick,
Sounds like your filter is clogging up, the fact that you shut the car off and wait a minute then start it again is a classic sign of a clogged filter. Gary
Thank you so very much
i have a question i want your thoughts ok 4l60e throwing p1860 so i drop pan and theres no pwm solenoid hole is there its empty also no plug and looked for wires none its in a 96 k2500 do u think wire harness from pre 96 why would you remove this solenoid and what will its affects be thanks
84montecarlonazi what is the definition of the code?
Does the blazer 1995 has the same piston?
I believe it does yes.
Hey man great video! So I just had my trans rebuilt from a friend and he only did pump, torque converter and clutches I had a pump failure. But a week early I got off the turnpike and had a 1-2 hard shift then a 1870 code came up. It’s a 99 Suburban with a 4L60E. My question is can I do this brake line fix now? And fix the 1870 code? Or do I need to do the Sonnax kit with having to bore the hole bigger then install new larger valve or does this brake line trick work on the valve body I have already ?
Did you have this code before?
Gary Ferraro thanks for quick response. I purchased the suburban 2 weeks ago and was told transmission was getting worn. Drove and shifted fine. Went on turnpike run for 30 minutes and go off and had a hard 1-2 shift just as you described and service engine light came on and scanned code and came back 1870 component slipping. On ride back I got almost home and it was like someone bumped me into neutral , I lost all forward / reverse and had it towed to the shop I bought it from. I was told the pump went bad and converter was damaged, he installed new front pump, new clutches and torque converter I don’t know if he did anything in valve body. I just got it back yesterday and it’s driving great but once again got on highway and it through an 1870 code and had a slight hard 1-2 shift so I cleared code last night and has been fine since. Just went out this morning and shifts smooth, properly and no issues or code. I was previously looking into the valve body fix and new the TCC valve was an issue. I wanted to drop the pan today and do this brake line fix instead of doing the bore kit from Sonnax. Think it will Work for me? Thank you so much for help!
I would certainly try this, im assuming the converter that was p[ut in was rebuilt? also the PWM TCC solenoid snout likes to crack, you cant see the crack its very slight, this will cause this code as well. The PWM TCC solenoid is located right above the the tcc solenoid the goes into the pump
I have a 01 S10 4x4 with 176,00 no problem with trans. driving to work 3rd to 4th engine reved up and trans went into limp w/code P0756. In gears 1st, Neutral, Reverse acted like stuck in forward, reverse and park. Dropped pan to replace B soleniod to my surprise there was no junk in pan, filter was not clogged. Refilled test drove and same problem. Checked fuses all good. Suggestion for my next step.
Hello,
Question, are you sure its the 3-4 shift and not the 2-3 shift? Its common for the 3-4 clutch pack to go bad which would cause a flare on the 2-3 shift. The P0756 is a mechanical code, usually not the solenoid but an internal trans problem. Gary
Pretty sure 3-4 shift. if clutch pack is bad would that cause 1st, neutral and reverse act like they are in park, 2nd and drive act like they are in 2nd. If the clutch pack went bad is there any thing else for me to check. Also when in park position the engine labors.
when you say 1st neutral and reverse act like in park, will the car not move? drive act like 2nd, thats because its probably in limp mode
Acts like in park will not roll.
wont roll with engine off?
Is the transgo iso-valve give you the same results or will what your doing work better?
What i do turns it into on/off, Never used the transgo valve but i'm sure it's similar
@@GaryFerraro came with the SK 4l60e kit I am doing rebuilt an 03 my first rebuild have you ever used sonnax 2-3 hd shift valve? I combined a few sonnax and tg parts hope it's ok seems to make sense to me any other suggestions on this valvebody?
@@robpaul7900 Not Really, i just to the one modification on these bodies
I know video is a little old but still see recent comments, if people want a part specifically for this instead of using brake line go to a site called fitzall and type in the p1870. They have a tcc valve that does exactly this with the on/off application only about $15.
Planning on installing it tomorrow on a 2000 gmc sierra 1500 throwing p1870, hoping it fixes my problem so i don't have to dive into more costly repairs for an older truck
Let me know how it goes
We’re you able to get it ordered and fixed?
We’re u able to get it fixed
Can this be done with the trans still in the vehicle? That is to say if I drop the valve body laying under my truck after I drop the pan am I going to get into a whole another can of worms with check balls falling out etc??
There are check balls in the valvebody and one in the case(the plate will hold the one in the case) if you can come straight down with the valvebody, you can see where the checkballs go. It can be done without pulling trans
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for that. The code I keep having set is P0894 'transmission component slipping' not code p1870. 1-2-3- 4 shifts are fine. Not soft nor hard. Around 45-50 mph after it's warmed up when it goes into lockup it does that shudder... step on it a bit it pops out of lock up.. go back to normal throttle it goes back into lockup and shudders.. so it sure seems like it's that valve your mentioning in this video and the fix you suggest would work. What do you think? It's just interesting I get a different code I want to make sure I'm on the right track before I try this. Thanks again!! PS I just bought this truck 2005 Express 3500 6.0. Trans fluid looked black but did not smell burned. I wonder if there is any chance just a new filter and flush would work. Perhaps the old fluid is just too thin now that's the only problem? I know kind of hard to know from where your sitting.
@@govsux1 New filter and flush probably will not work. P0894 and P1870 mean the same thing. You could try the valvebody fix, if the code comes comes back, trans will likely have to come out. If you use this van for delivery you really need that lock-up working, without it a lot of heat will be generated.
@@GaryFerraro Okay great... thanks for the info!! I need a filter and fluid anyway so I think I'll do this while I have the pan off. I've watched two other videos now showing if you get creative with the clip you can do this without removing the valve body. Looks like a tedious PITA but I guess it's possible.
govsux1 the piece of brake line is about 1.10 inches
Hello Gary, Does that work on Seat 2013?
What transmission do you have?
Does that repair apply to 1993 valve body
I do not believe it does, the PWM solenoid started in 1995
I have a 4l60e in a 99 Burban. Once it gets warmed up, when I get into over drive I notice a little jerk. Not always, but more often than not. Just had it rebuilt about three months ago, shifts fine, rides fine, just have this issue and have had for about a month. It feels as if the torque converter slips momentarily and will continue to do so, without any pattern or rhythm, until I give it a little more gas to make the converter lock up. Haven't run codes yet but could this be my problem?
Ok, so your steady on the gas when you feel this? about how fast are you going when this happens?
Gary Ferraro it does not do it when I am on the gas, only when I let off a little to cruise or take my foot off to slow down. It only does it once I'm above 55.
Well, it could be the lock-up disengaging, this happens when you release the gas. Do you know if they did any shift kit, or any modification for lock-up?
It does it when I let off the gas or let off a little to cruise, basically it's fine when accelerating at those speeds. I had him put a transgo kit on it, the HD2 I think, corvette servo, and heavier duty clutches and bands and 5 planetary gears so it's a 4L65E now. But it shifts fine and everything other than this problem.
It does it when I let off the gas or let off a little to cruise, basically it's fine when accelerating at those speeds. I had him put a transgo kit on it, the HD2 I think, corvette servo, and heavier duty clutches and bands and 5 planetary gears so it's a 4L65E now. But it shifts fine and everything other than this problem.
Hi Gary I have a problem with a 2004 Chevy express 350 it keeps coming back with a code P0984 transmisión component slipping
This is a second unit that we install completely different unit with its own valvebody and still has the come
What I notice is that every time I erase the code the transmission works fine and the tcc is been commanded by the tcm but as soon as the code returned the tcc is not commanded by the tcm and the transmission has a harsh shifting on second and third gear and no lock up on the converte . Could this be the tcm going bad?
Thank you in advance
hector j. mendoza Do you have a scan tool that shows live transmission data?
Gary Ferraro I do
@@aviator1683ok, set t scanner up to see TCC Slip RPM and TCC Duty Cycle, when tcc gets commanded on see what slip you have and let me know, slip RPM should be 10 or less
Gary Ferraro it show more than 10
When the tcc was commanded
But when the code resets the tcc % shows 0 and the tcc slip is higher
@@aviator1683 At this point the computer sees a problem and inhibits lock-up What was the slip RPM?
Awesome tip!
Does this mod cause decreased fuel mileage?
I just recently did a highway trip, and after exiting the highway, 1-2 shift seems more harsh and a tiny bit delayed...
I put my code reader on it today after watching your vid, but im not getting any codes.
Is this related? Or could it possibly be the 1-2 accumulator piston?
Ive heard they they are prone to cracking and wearing at the pin, and can also cause 1-2 shift to be harsh...
Thank you
The code reader may not pick the code up, do you know anyone with a good scan tool like snap-on or autel
Gary Ferraro
Ya, it might not. Its an Autel AL419, so it might be too basic to pick up tranny codes...
I do know a person with a good one. Maybe i can get him to scan it for codes...
Yes and let me know if any are present. This mod turns a pulsed width modulated lock up circuit into an on/off circuit. Have it scanned and let me know
Gary Ferraro
Ok, i will
Thank you so much for the help!
I will keep you posted in the next few days...
What material brake line?
I just did this about to take for a test ride . i was only getting code when i came off the highway for 20 to 30 min. Should i expect a hard shift or no?
You may need to clear the code, do you have a scanner that shows live data, can you see TCC slip?
Now i dont have reverse
@@poormansyoutube686 did you hook up the manual valve?
Will that fix one that is surging the lu with no code at slow speeds , mine works fine at higher speeds on locking up the converter , this seems to be worse as the trans temps go up while driving at slower speeds , i do have PWM valve system
+Kim Pettit It should, it turns it into an on /off instead of the pwm, have you looked at data to see your converter slip rpm?
My scanner does not show that data , I am going off seat of the pants dyno watching the tach while it is doing it , thanks for your comment
how is your 1-2 shift? normal or firm?
it is normal most of the time , but sometime it will shift hard to second , no pattern though
+Kim Pettit The firmness on the 1-2 shift may be the computer raising line pressure, possibly due to converter slip.
How about p0796 code?
what is the year, make ,model and engine size
Hi, I'm turkey Istanbul from you I have a tool that will be a question for a 1998 model Proton brand mutsubi compatible 1600 ° engine automatic transmission problems i have transmission I have collected only tool motion does not I would be glad if you help whichever relay caused solenoid problems
Can Baran Do you know what transmission you have and are there any codes?
Do you think this will fix p1870 in a 2000 astro with 4l60e? Perhaps temporarily, till I can invest in a rebuild?
Also curious, if I could get away with reusing the old valve body gaskets? For the next 3-4 weeks or so. - otherwise I'd have to buy them twice.
If its not to far gone(converter clutch or worn bushings)it will fix the car. You can reuse the valvebody gaskets over again as long as they dont tear when taking the valvebody down.
Cool, I'll give it a try. Most of the time it shift pretty smooth. Hopefully it will buy me some time.
Gary Ferraro hey gary just wanted to know Will it pass smog test if I did that prosses to my truck
It should, what this does is just change the TCC apply to on/off verus pulse width
Gary Ferraro thank you
Will it pass smog test like that
That shouldn't effect smog.
will it work for an A406/ E41T?
No, it will not, do you have a lock up code
will this work on a 2004???
Yes, it will If the code does come back then something else is wrong(maybe a worn bushing) but you can do this
they are great cars i found it its just missing somebody removed it just wonder why was your first car blue
White, it was a monte carlo SS
p1860 is pwm solenoid pulse width modgule
84montecarlonazi The tcc solenoid is in the upper left side of the trans. By the dipstick My first car was an 84 Monte Carlo.
4l60E good tips
+احمد محمد Thank you sir. Gary
THANK YOU Gary!!!!!!
Thanks for watching
be careful if you are working on a vehicle with multiple cylinder shut down.....tcc needs to slip a little more when dropping cylinders....great tip though....ive been using the valve from transgos sk.....going to block that valve your way and save some money......on non cylinder dropping models of course
+Jeff Stepp Thanks for watching, this tip comes directly from steve younger. I went to one of his semiars a while back, been working ok for me, sometimes when the tcc comes off, sometimes you feel it but its not bad. Are you a builder? where are you located? Gary
Yes I am a builder in mpls mn.....45 yrs young.....I went to one of steve youngers seminars...kind of boring.....he has helped me in the past over the phone....very smart
Jeff Stepp Nice to meet you Jeff, Im 48 been doing transmissions since high school, took over the family business 3 years ago. Do you like ATSG semiars? I do all the rebuilding myself, not easy to find a good builder(thats why i asked where you are located). Gary
+Gary Ferraro Who do you buy your parts from?
WIT AND TRANSTAR
Thank you
then must of had blue interior with bucket seats or bench seat with ss on head rest mine is 84 also u can check it on my channel
Yes blue interior
can this been done on 2004-2012 4L60E trans
Dan Ray yes it can
So I'm guessing the length of the tube is an ancient Chinese secret? lol
Around 1.1" or so?
yes correct around 1.1 lol (eating a fortune cookie😁)
liked and subscribed,, thanks
This did not work. I ended up having to get a whole nother valve body. Cheaper than buying the oversized sonnax valve and bore. The bore bit costs about 120 by itself. I paid 80 dollars for a refurbished valve body tested. Just fix it right the first time. You are going to waste time and money trying this trick.
usually when it doesnt fix the car its to far gone or a bushing may be bad, i've had a few times where it didnt work, so we ended up doing an overhaul and found the problem internal when going through the trans, how many miles are on your car?
Unless the converter is burned up this will work every time. So if your new vb fixed it then you had something else wrong or you didn't install the brake line properly.
If you catch it in time, it will fix the code, it turns it to on-off, instead of pulsed
Will the brake line fix work on a 1991 park avenue, it is a 4t60e with pwm converter ? Thank you
Why Don't you just change the valve body. And all is factory again. No half-ass fixes
This is a good fix when the bore wears out and they all wear out. I was able to fix converter slip codes doing that fix.
@@GaryFerraro it's not really a good fix. Because the valve body is not fully functioning. Causing wear on the valve body and other parts of the transmission just making blockages and passages. So anywhere we'll start building up and then passages.
@@michaelspeakman8924 The valvebodies all wear out, what this does is turn a PWM into an ON/Off so if the valvebody is worn it can still be used. other factors that would cause solenoid codes are worn bushings, TCC solenoid(snout cracks) or the converter itself. I do that fix, new bushings, new solenoid and converter and never really had a problem, I do at least 2 of these units a week
How long do i cut the break line insert? Thanks
about 1.1 inches
@@GaryFerraro Copy that. Thank you 👍