Thanks for the video on these. Been debating them for quite a few years as It's been tough to find people who have been using half ton trucks that show it as well as you did. I've looked for years and struggled so thank you for the great video showing this 👍 They're a great option for lower ceilings and also maximizing the room. Even doing as much stuff as I do to my vehicles, I'm not using a lift even every month. Hard to justify taking up the space when you have these as an option
Yes, those are the same reasons I got it. My shop space is limited and it's really nice to be able to get them out of the way when they're mot in use. Glad this was helpful!
I love my quickjack 7000tl and use it to lift my 2008 Landcruiser which has a curb weight of 5700lb no issues at all. If I am just doing an oil change I still use my drive on ramps most of the time. Just because of the extra time to get the QJ set up.
Correct, I meant to say water but when I opened my yap, air came out...😁 I've been meaning to get one of those brake tester pens to check for moisture. Anyone have experience with them - do they work?
I have the 7000TLX model and it lifts my 6000lb Yukon XL (Suburban basically) with no problems. I've had it about a year and I also use it on my mustang and the wife's Acadia. As long as you have the pads located well on the frame or on the pinch weld area (I always use the factory recommended lift points) and back it off onto the safety locks, it will be good to go. I've done tire rotations, fluid changes, brakes, and even the entire front suspension components (upper/lower control arms, axles, struts, tie rods) using this quickjack.
Thanks for the video, I was debating between the 7000TL and the 7000TLX. I have a pick up, full-size SUV and two cars. Seeing you use the TL for your truck helped me settle on which one to get, because the TLX may not work with one of my cars. I guess I could always get the extension trays to make the TL like the TLX if I needed, but it looks like from your video I don't need to do that.
oh I was looking for a video like this for a while! I just picked up a 2020 GMC 1500 Denali and wondering how this would work. I have a few other vehicles (Civic, CX9, SS) so I wanted to make sure I get one that can do it all. Now I just need the truck adapters to come back in stock.
Thanks for the comment. The TL currently works okay for my truck, but you'll want to measure the wheelbase to make sure it will work for you as well. Good luck!
Do you notice any wear on the bottom of the quick jacks from sliding them around? I’m interested but would be on pavement for most my work. I wish they came with bearings on the bottom. I’m just concerned the scraping would lead to eventual rust etc.
I actually added some ball bearing casters to mine. So, I don't think there has been much wear from rolling them around. I saw that hack on RUclips - I think I posted a link on the original video that has them lifting the Chevy.
I have the 7000TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack.
Oh no! That sounds like a terrible experience:( for whats its worth maybe I can teach you some things about the QuickJack: The air bottles literally have no function when lowering a QuickJack with weight. The air bottles are inflated with approximately 50 PSI generating a little force downwards, while a vehicle will generate 1500 PSI downwards. Even with smaller objects like boats, lawnmowers etc you do not need the air bottles. Meaning there is not any difference when lowering UNTIL the vehicle hits the ground and the QuickJack frames have to lower by them selfs. That’s when the air pressure might help a little. However over the year the seals of the cylinders will wear in and the jack will come down easily without this air bottle help. And before that happens, you can just simply push with your foot on the frame (bc you are already standing there) and it will come down all the way immediately: Now personally ;) I would go with a low viscosity fluid (like iso 32 hydraulic) which seems to flow a lot better. Also if you are expiring unequally lowering WITH weight, you might want to check for air, obstructions and other issues. Its usually some teflon you’ve put in a fitting by mistake. You can always try to switch hydraulic hoses to see if an obstruction moves to another location. Good luck buddy, can’t be that hard!
I think a billion might be a bit of a stretch. Just as an example, I can do a radiator flush for the cost of the fluid. My dealership charges $389 for installing front brake pads. I can buy a set of ceramic pads for around $50 and install them myself. That's over $300 in savings in just one example. I have that service coming up soon, and I plan on doing it myself. With the Quick Jack, it'll be easy.
I agree - very good point. I once had an oil change at one of those quickie places and the tech broke the handle off my dip stick. I overheard the him telling the manager that Fords were pieces of sh*t, which is why it broke. What a Richard Cranium.
I've heard that moisture can get behind the rust and start rusting the frame. Sometimes it's not noticeable. Do you have experience with this? If so, please share it - I'm sure others would like to hear more.
Yeas, it leaves residue on the truck extensions when I let the Sierra back down. Do you know if there is a replacement product that can put back on to cover up exposed areas?
I took a measurement of the frame rails prior to purchase. Comparing that with the dimensions provided by the Quick Jack specs, I determined that I could lift the truck on the jack points if I placed the extensions at the furthest point on each end. Hope that helps.
I know, right? There's always the new better thing coming around the corner. Makes me wonder what they'll come up with to best the TL. Something that raises up the vehicle 30 inches maybe?
Thanks for the video on these. Been debating them for quite a few years as It's been tough to find people who have been using half ton trucks that show it as well as you did. I've looked for years and struggled so thank you for the great video showing this 👍
They're a great option for lower ceilings and also maximizing the room. Even doing as much stuff as I do to my vehicles, I'm not using a lift even every month. Hard to justify taking up the space when you have these as an option
Yes, those are the same reasons I got it. My shop space is limited and it's really nice to be able to get them out of the way when they're mot in use. Glad this was helpful!
I love my quickjack 7000tl and use it to lift my 2008 Landcruiser which has a curb weight of 5700lb no issues at all. If I am just doing an oil change I still use my drive on ramps most of the time. Just because of the extra time to get the QJ set up.
I guess it boils down to what application is most effective for the job. Nothing wrong with using car ramps when they do the job just as well.
It’s water in the brake fluid. Very good video. Nice truck
Correct, I meant to say water but when I opened my yap, air came out...😁 I've been meaning to get one of those brake tester pens to check for moisture. Anyone have experience with them - do they work?
@@petefromhillcountry3268 I don’t have one but I have heard they work really well. I have used the wrong words too.
Not a chance I’m getting under there without 4 jackstands in place as an added safety measure.
You and me both. I always put jack stands under just in case. No sense tempting fate, right?
Keep your purses near by.
I have the 7000TLX model and it lifts my 6000lb Yukon XL (Suburban basically) with no problems. I've had it about a year and I also use it on my mustang and the wife's Acadia.
As long as you have the pads located well on the frame or on the pinch weld area (I always use the factory recommended lift points) and back it off onto the safety locks, it will be good to go. I've done tire rotations, fluid changes, brakes, and even the entire front suspension components (upper/lower control arms, axles, struts, tie rods) using this quickjack.
Thanks for the information. Sounds like you've gotten your money's worth out of it already.
Thanks for the video, I was debating between the 7000TL and the 7000TLX. I have a pick up, full-size SUV and two cars. Seeing you use the TL for your truck helped me settle on which one to get, because the TLX may not work with one of my cars. I guess I could always get the extension trays to make the TL like the TLX if I needed, but it looks like from your video I don't need to do that.
Glad I could help. Let me know how it works out!
That 7000TL seems like a pretty nice unit although it does have it's ups and downs....
See what I did there?
Help me...😬
oh I was looking for a video like this for a while! I just picked up a 2020 GMC 1500 Denali and wondering how this would work. I have a few other vehicles (Civic, CX9, SS) so I wanted to make sure I get one that can do it all. Now I just need the truck adapters to come back in stock.
Thanks for the comment. The TL currently works okay for my truck, but you'll want to measure the wheelbase to make sure it will work for you as well. Good luck!
If that's smegma....you better see your doctor soon!!! LOL Thanks for the vid!
HA!😅
THAT JACK IS BAD ASS
I've been impressed with it, for sure. Thanks for commenting!
Do you notice any wear on the bottom of the quick jacks from sliding them around? I’m interested but would be on pavement for most my work. I wish they came with bearings on the bottom. I’m just concerned the scraping would lead to eventual rust etc.
I actually added some ball bearing casters to mine. So, I don't think there has been much wear from rolling them around. I saw that hack on RUclips - I think I posted a link on the original video that has them lifting the Chevy.
I love the convenience of it... but mr personally I'd would still use my good old jack stands. However Quick Jack for the win 👍🏾
Sure - I still use mine for some things as well.
I have the 7000TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity.
I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack.
Sorry to hear you had a bad time with yours.
Oh no! That sounds like a terrible experience:( for whats its worth maybe I can teach you some things about the QuickJack: The air bottles literally have no function when lowering a QuickJack with weight. The air bottles are inflated with approximately 50 PSI generating a little force downwards, while a vehicle will generate 1500 PSI downwards. Even with smaller objects like boats, lawnmowers etc you do not need the air bottles.
Meaning there is not any difference when lowering UNTIL the vehicle hits the ground and the QuickJack frames have to lower by them selfs. That’s when the air pressure might help a little. However over the year the seals of the cylinders will wear in and the jack will come down easily without this air bottle help. And before that happens, you can just simply push with your foot on the frame (bc you are already standing there) and it will come down all the way immediately:
Now personally ;) I would go with a low viscosity fluid (like iso 32 hydraulic) which seems to flow a lot better. Also if you are expiring unequally lowering WITH weight, you might want to check for air, obstructions and other issues. Its usually some teflon you’ve put in a fitting by mistake. You can always try to switch hydraulic hoses to see if an obstruction moves to another location.
Good luck buddy, can’t be that hard!
The only problem is,once you pay for it you could have had a billion services from dealership.
I think a billion might be a bit of a stretch. Just as an example, I can do a radiator flush for the cost of the fluid. My dealership charges $389 for installing front brake pads. I can buy a set of ceramic pads for around $50 and install them myself. That's over $300 in savings in just one example. I have that service coming up soon, and I plan on doing it myself. With the Quick Jack, it'll be easy.
I trust myself 200% more than a shop. It's not just about money.
I agree - very good point. I once had an oil change at one of those quickie places and the tech broke the handle off my dip stick. I overheard the him telling the manager that Fords were pieces of sh*t, which is why it broke. What a Richard Cranium.
Gm screwed everyone with the wax undercoating
I've heard that moisture can get behind the rust and start rusting the frame. Sometimes it's not noticeable. Do you have experience with this? If so, please share it - I'm sure others would like to hear more.
@petefromhillcountry3268 it's to new but gm fucked me with this shit you get near it you wear it
Yeas, it leaves residue on the truck extensions when I let the Sierra back down. Do you know if there is a replacement product that can put back on to cover up exposed areas?
@petefromhillcountry3268 I think we are stuck with it unfortunately
How did you determine the positioning for the truck extensions
I took a measurement of the frame rails prior to purchase. Comparing that with the dimensions provided by the Quick Jack specs, I determined that I could lift the truck on the jack points if I placed the extensions at the furthest point on each end. Hope that helps.
@@petefromhillcountry3268 it went up nice and level so the weight was well distributed
Still use Jack Stands and save you're own life.
I put jack a jack stand under each side of the quick jack just to be on the safe side. You can spot them in other videos. Thanks for the input.
What pisses me off if I bought the QJ and two months later they came out with the TL models. Bastards!
I know, right? There's always the new better thing coming around the corner. Makes me wonder what they'll come up with to best the TL. Something that raises up the vehicle 30 inches maybe?
LOOOOOOOOOOOL MENTAL DISABLED COMEDY GOLD
😊