I'll tell you why this happened, and it's much more of an issue with higher (ground clearance) vehicles. The truck adapter is definitely the way to go, but the potential issues still exists. The problem is that by design, the Quickjack lifts in an arch. This means as it lifts, it is trying to shift your car forward or backward, depending on which direction your quickjack is facing. On cars that are lower or with not much suspension travel, the tires come off the ground quickly, and there isn't much issue. On higher vehicles like SUVs and trucks however, the suspension can droop a LOT. So as the Quickjacks lift, they try to shift your vehicle forward or backward, but since your truck is in park and/or the parking brake is engaged, the tire's grip and the quickjack's motions are fighting one another, and you end up shifting the position of the blocks and sometimes forcing the tires to skip. This usually causes them to sit all tilted like yours did. So the best way around this I have found is to put the car in neutral but with the parking brake on. Then, operate the quickjack until you just start lifting the vehicle at it's lift points. This is to transfer some of the weight onto the quickjack so the car doesn't roll away from you. At this point, stop lifting, then release the parking brake so the car is completely in neutral and free to roll. Now go ahead an lift as high as you need. While you're doing this, you will see that the wheels will rotate quite a bit as the vehicle is shifted forward or back, but this time it's just rolling, rather than fighting with the Quickjack at the lift points. When lowering, do a similar approach of lowering it down, but stop just before you completely unload the quickjack (Putting a wheel chock an inch or two in front and back of a tire is not a bad idea in case you lower it too far). Re-engage the parking brake and then lower the last few inches.
I don't have high vehicles and haven't encountered this issue but I totally understand what you're saying. I appreciate this comment and thanks for bringing this up. This could save some accidents for new owners who are not well versed in setting this system up.
Thanks for the post! Just want to mention that you positioned your truck backwards on the lift. You want to avoid placing the center of mass over rear of the jacks. Your truck was going to fall because most of the weight in the engine/transmission was causing a rotational moment of force over the back of the jacks. The manual states that the bulk of the weight should be positioned over the front of the jacks. Glad it worked out for you though! Stay safe out there!
Lots of people will use it wrong. I use stuff wrong all the time. I like it when people leave comments on my videos. I like money. And if I respond to this comment it gets moved down where I don’t have to look at it when I check my comment box. Hope that’s a respectable answer.
If I respond do you have to look at it again? Do you get more money? I'm fine with you getting money. I'm just tired of something like a video saying, "Is the Dodge Demon underpowered?" Where the obvious answer is "No. Clearly not." This is similar. Grandma is dangerous if you hand her scissors and tell her to do "helicopter." Just giving my feedback! @@Donnythelatemodeltech
@@Donnythelatemodeltech "respectable"... Well, it's an answer😂😂 Hope this gives you more money since I'll be blocking the channel so you can laugh in my face too 👍
Doing something wrong and showing it on RUclips is educational. It shows people how -not- to do something, which for some people seems to be the only way they learn.
So i have a 7000 EXT and have both sets of rubber blocks and the truck metal post with the rubbber round tops square bottoms. I WELDED MINE TOGETHER. Since I had the un welded ones come out on an uneven down jack (I couldn’t see the passenger side well enough to understand it wasn’t coming down at the same speed) the left hand side shot sideways as the posts came apart (they have a spacer to make them taller) thank goodness it was nearly to the ground and only damage was an empty paint can in garage got crushed and the jack hit part of the undercarriage and made a scrape. I was freaking out about it because it was the one time I made room in my narrow garage to use the lift for all the fluid service. I usually use it on my lightly sloped asphalt driveway and have plenty of room and can see so much better. I recently had the pump fitting crap out and bought new Summit Hydraulic fittings off Amazon and will be replacing all my fittings. Can’t have it leak on me when my truck is in the air and it would be a real bitch to take it off the lift with jack stands on my sloped driveway. The sloped driveway is why i invested in QJ to begin with. Thanks for posting your issue.
I think you are using the quickjack wrong as well. if I remember it correctly the front with big sticker should be towards the weight where the engine is.
Best block is a home made wooden block with as wide as possible base to fit in the Quick Jack. This goes for all types of jack points, including pinch welds. I use custom laminated (oak maple, beech) wood that is scrape around the shop. if you don't have hardwood scrap, cut plywood squares to laminate your own custom block. these do not move, have a bit of cushion, do not split due to being laminated, and do not tip over. BTW, the best (safest) jack stands are 4x4x12 inch blocks, setup cross ways like Jenga to form a 12x12 base. bullet proof!!
The "jenga" blocks are called cribbing. They can hold tremendous weight IF the stack is built correctly. Not that it's hard, but some not paying attention can create a dangerous situation.
Back in the old days I worked at a Chevron Gas station... which had repair bays etc...... during our training program it was reinforced to us to 1) Never raise the lift blocks (these were adjustable lift points on the racks) more than the 1st setting on any short wheel-based 4 wheel drive (CJ's etc.) and 2) NEVER stack multiple blocks ever. IMHO, I see too many no-instruction type issues for end users and in terms of time savings..... I have timed it lifting my 5k pound truck and 3800 pound wife's car raising with my 3 tone floor jack and 6 ton jack stands...honestly, from start to finish I can raise the vehicles up higher (26-30 inches depending on need) in less time than you can with the quickjack unit....
Thats amazing. Are you using some kind of ingenuity with wood blocks and pumping it up? How are you getting that kindof height that quick? For me to fuss on my belly with a jack and jack stands at all SUCKS!
@@dangerdavefreestyle I utilize ramps to drive up on which raises the vehicle about 9 in then I jack the rear end of the vehicle up place it on jack stands then repeat once with the front and a second time with the back and we are all done. I use a six-by-six wood block on the front ends of the vehicles with a floor jack and for the rear ends I have per stacked 3 2x10 board screwed together to use as a base to raise up the rear and again set him on jack stands
the same issue can happen with a regular floor jack if you put the parking break on, the vehicle needs to move so it doesn't slip off the jack, block your tires after you lift with regular jack
Nice! Excellent for lowering cars and taking it to the track but since you mentioned it's heavy then I don't know now. Good investment though, no more floor jack.
It amazes me that a product uses dumbbells as truck adapter. I know gym rats that try to lift on top of dumbbells and they easily tip over, but yet here we are putting trucks on top of them. Crazy world.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Because as it's lifting, you'll have the heavy mass of the engine cantilevered out over the stand. It's lifting just behind the front tire, but only touching the ground about 1.5feet back from that. Lookup quickjack NSX on youtube. At the 18:15 mark of his video you'll see the car start to tip back. Since his engine is in the back, the large label on the jack should be towards the back also.
Or if your garage concrete isn't thick enough for a shop lift...or if your garage ceiling isn't high enough for a shop lift...or if your single car garage doesn't have space for a shop lift...etc etc.
@@lynnmckenney1987 My thoughts exactly. There's a reason there is a market for these. Our ceiling is 10.5ft high and still not adequate for a 2 post because the garage door rails are even lower. Not to mention the builder concrete is likely only 2" thick at best.
I almost got killed because of lacking of space when the jacks are not going down equally thus getting unbalanced on one side. I have a single car garage. I was lucky the car did not slide off the jacks. I finally succeeded got the jacks going down completely and i could take my car out. I think i got the lemon one. I returned the jacks.
It’s painfully obvious you aren’t under the CG of the truck. The ass shouldn’t be sagging that much. You either need the TLX. The frame extensions or move the jacks more rearward If there’s ample frame / jack support
Crazy part is the whole truck wobbles if you move it around I put my Yukon do denali and it lifts it easily but can’t lean on it it wobbles feels unsafe
The blocks are supplied with the jacks, the trucks adapters are sold separately and are a bit pricey, so ... the temptation to try to get away without purchasing the adapter is in my opinion pretty likely.
Great failure demo. Thanks! I would really like to know why the stacked blocks failed. It’s almost as if there was a shearing effect with the truck rails moving aft at a faster rate than the QJ rails, thereby causing the blocks to tip and fail. But this shearing force would be equally present with the truck adaptors. Can anyone explain the cause of this failure mode???
I just bought one of these Quickjacks. The shearing is because the jack moves back as is goes up. When the wheels touch, they grab the pavement causing the shear. My new Chevrolet Silverado 1500 has grease on the frame and the jack slide off the frame while this was happening. Lucky I didn't damage the pickup nor the jack. Next time the vehicle will be in neutral just when the tires are starting to drag.
@@nealconrardy Grease or is it wax? I thought GM was still applying a protective wax coating on the Silverado/Sierra's instead of powder-coating the frames....
@@manunava1776 It sure seems like a thick grease to me. It will stain your clothes if you get some on you. It doesn't resemble any wax I have ever seen.
The reason this happened is because the truck wasn’t lifted straight up. Truck was leaning back. Front tires were inches off the ground before rear was lifted. Watch it again. When the rear and the front are going up at a different rate, jacks needs to be moved one way or the other. Especially if blocks are stacked.
I made the mistake of double stacking the blocks-DONT Do It! Use the SUV/truck adapters. My adult son was almost pinned under the CRV when the blocks shifted and vehicle fell.
The Quickjacks are great if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the car vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack.
I see you got an r32 in the garage 👀, do these quick jacks work on that car too? I'm thinking about getting on, but the jacking points on the R32 gtr are all wierd.
Ok why would you even attempt to lift with the rubber blocks on a Tundra? Thats just being stupid right there. I have the same model quickjack for my tacoma which with all the skids and stuff I put on it weighs 6,000 lbs. I use truck adaptors and NEVER had any sort of problem. The main problem is people using the quickjacks WRONG UNSAFE manner that creates the situation that you had. I see so many people with mixed reviews on quickjacks and the negative reviews are almost always user error..... Ive had mine for 4 years now and never once dropped a vehicle....
I used this jack system got car up the hydraulic motor blew up the car slammed on the ground very dangerous to be under a mid rise lift work better for me
The motor failed as the car was lifting? Certainly it didn't "slam" to the ground once it was already raised. The safety bars would have prevented this if it was lifted far enough.
So the truck adapters are what to use for lifting a truck. Glad I watched a video for that. What stupid click bait when people are looking for actual info
It has safety locks in several positions. There are videos where the car falls sideways because the operator raises only high enough to hear one click instead of both rails clicking. To lower it, you must raise it slightly and manually disengage the locks.
The background music of this vid is unnecessary and distracts from your otherwise helpful content. I'd rather hear the jack's working sounds. Turning off the music also mutes everything else.
I'll tell you why this happened, and it's much more of an issue with higher (ground clearance) vehicles. The truck adapter is definitely the way to go, but the potential issues still exists. The problem is that by design, the Quickjack lifts in an arch. This means as it lifts, it is trying to shift your car forward or backward, depending on which direction your quickjack is facing. On cars that are lower or with not much suspension travel, the tires come off the ground quickly, and there isn't much issue.
On higher vehicles like SUVs and trucks however, the suspension can droop a LOT. So as the Quickjacks lift, they try to shift your vehicle forward or backward, but since your truck is in park and/or the parking brake is engaged, the tire's grip and the quickjack's motions are fighting one another, and you end up shifting the position of the blocks and sometimes forcing the tires to skip. This usually causes them to sit all tilted like yours did.
So the best way around this I have found is to put the car in neutral but with the parking brake on. Then, operate the quickjack until you just start lifting the vehicle at it's lift points. This is to transfer some of the weight onto the quickjack so the car doesn't roll away from you. At this point, stop lifting, then release the parking brake so the car is completely in neutral and free to roll. Now go ahead an lift as high as you need. While you're doing this, you will see that the wheels will rotate quite a bit as the vehicle is shifted forward or back, but this time it's just rolling, rather than fighting with the Quickjack at the lift points.
When lowering, do a similar approach of lowering it down, but stop just before you completely unload the quickjack (Putting a wheel chock an inch or two in front and back of a tire is not a bad idea in case you lower it too far). Re-engage the parking brake and then lower the last few inches.
I also put on 2 thick zip ties and jack stands. can never be to safe :P
Vevor makes a similar lift that lifts straight up and down.
I don't have high vehicles and haven't encountered this issue but I totally understand what you're saying. I appreciate this comment and thanks for bringing this up. This could save some accidents for new owners who are not well versed in setting this system up.
The quick Jack is NOT the problem here…🤣🤣
Right??
1:25 Quick Jack says NOT to stack two medium height (3in) blocks. The max lift from the tray bottom is 5in using the two different sized blocks.
Thanks for sharing!
My Dodge Journey with 19 inch rims falls off with the two blocks I need something different
@@kanth66
My dog hasn’t had any journeys in awhile….
Kinda common sense not to stack rubber blocks 🤷♂️
It's in the quickjack manual that you can stack the small and the big block but no more than that.
@stevemikaric8961 yeah I know, I have a set but still.. just look at them. No way in hell would I stack mine. Little common sense comes into play here
Was that an SC at the start? How did it work on that? Would you be comfortable doing exhaust, transmission?
Thanks for the post!
Just want to mention that you positioned your truck backwards on the lift. You want to avoid placing the center of mass over rear of the jacks.
Your truck was going to fall because most of the weight in the engine/transmission was causing a rotational moment of force over the back of the jacks.
The manual states that the bulk of the weight should be positioned over the front of the jacks.
Glad it worked out for you though! Stay safe out there!
Looks right to me. The front (his garage side) is where his engine and weight is.
Clickbait bs. Why imply the product is dangerous when you just tried to use it wrong. SMH
Lots of people will use it wrong. I use stuff wrong all the time. I like it when people leave comments on my videos. I like money. And if I respond to this comment it gets moved down where I don’t have to look at it when I check my comment box. Hope that’s a respectable answer.
If I respond do you have to look at it again? Do you get more money? I'm fine with you getting money. I'm just tired of something like a video saying, "Is the Dodge Demon underpowered?" Where the obvious answer is "No. Clearly not." This is similar. Grandma is dangerous if you hand her scissors and tell her to do "helicopter." Just giving my feedback! @@Donnythelatemodeltech
@@Donnythelatemodeltech "respectable"... Well, it's an answer😂😂
Hope this gives you more money since I'll be blocking the channel so you can laugh in my face too 👍
@@Donnythelatemodeltech So, you're dumb and like echo chambers. Cool
Doing something wrong and showing it on RUclips is educational. It shows people how -not- to do something, which for some people seems to be the only way they learn.
It wasn't in danger of falling, It came off the blocks because the truck was in park. But yes, truck adapters are a must.
Bro.... you're using them backwards... The sticker goes towards the heavy part of the vehicle.
So i have a 7000 EXT and have both sets of rubber blocks and the truck metal post with the rubbber round tops square bottoms. I WELDED MINE TOGETHER. Since I had the un welded ones come out on an uneven down jack (I couldn’t see the passenger side well enough to understand it wasn’t coming down at the same speed) the left hand side shot sideways as the posts came apart (they have a spacer to make them taller) thank goodness it was nearly to the ground and only damage was an empty paint can in garage got crushed and the jack hit part of the undercarriage and made a scrape. I was freaking out about it because it was the one time I made room in my narrow garage to use the lift for all the fluid service. I usually use it on my lightly sloped asphalt driveway and have plenty of room and can see so much better. I recently had the pump fitting crap out and bought new Summit Hydraulic fittings off Amazon and will be replacing all my fittings. Can’t have it leak on me when my truck is in the air and it would be a real bitch to take it off the lift with jack stands on my sloped driveway. The sloped driveway is why i invested in QJ to begin with. Thanks for posting your issue.
Which fittings did you get from summit ?
I think you are using the quickjack wrong as well. if I remember it correctly the front with big sticker should be towards the weight where the engine is.
Can you confirm this? I thought he was using it in the correct orientation.
Who knew using the truck adapters on a truck will solve the problem
Best block is a home made wooden block with as wide as possible base to fit in the Quick Jack. This goes for all types of jack points, including pinch welds. I use custom laminated (oak maple, beech) wood that is scrape around the shop. if you don't have hardwood scrap, cut plywood squares to laminate your own custom block. these do not move, have a bit of cushion, do not split due to being laminated, and do not tip over. BTW, the best (safest) jack stands are 4x4x12 inch blocks, setup cross ways like Jenga to form a 12x12 base. bullet proof!!
The "jenga" blocks are called cribbing. They can hold tremendous weight IF the stack is built correctly. Not that it's hard, but some not paying attention can create a dangerous situation.
That’s what I did and it seems to work fine on Subaru Outback and Tahoe. My blocks nearly fill up the lift area and I can add rubber as needed .
Back in the old days I worked at a Chevron Gas station... which had repair bays etc...... during our training program it was reinforced to us to 1) Never raise the lift blocks (these were adjustable lift points on the racks) more than the 1st setting on any short wheel-based 4 wheel drive (CJ's etc.) and 2) NEVER stack multiple blocks ever. IMHO, I see too many no-instruction type issues for end users and in terms of time savings..... I have timed it lifting my 5k pound truck and 3800 pound wife's car raising with my 3 tone floor jack and 6 ton jack stands...honestly, from start to finish I can raise the vehicles up higher (26-30 inches depending on need) in less time than you can with the quickjack unit....
Thats amazing. Are you using some kind of ingenuity with wood blocks and pumping it up? How are you getting that kindof height that quick? For me to fuss on my belly with a jack and jack stands at all SUCKS!
@@dangerdavefreestyle I utilize ramps to drive up on which raises the vehicle about 9 in then I jack the rear end of the vehicle up place it on jack stands then repeat once with the front and a second time with the back and we are all done. I use a six-by-six wood block on the front ends of the vehicles with a floor jack and for the rear ends I have per stacked 3 2x10 board screwed together to use as a base to raise up the rear and again set him on jack stands
I noticed the only problem was it was in danger because YOU put it in park when it lifts and lowers at an angle.
I would still use a couple of axle stands as a backup to hydraulic failure
Still need jack stands for safety
Sure do!!@@@
the same issue can happen with a regular floor jack if you put the parking break on, the vehicle needs to move so it doesn't slip off the jack, block your tires after you lift with regular jack
Pretty sure the floor jack is supposed to do the moving in that situation.
The manual states never stack both large blocks. Only stack one large and one small to prevent what happened in your video. 😂
Or maybe use the "truck adapters" for a truck...
Nice! Excellent for lowering cars and taking it to the track but since you mentioned it's heavy then I don't know now. Good investment though, no more floor jack.
It amazes me that a product uses dumbbells as truck adapter. I know gym rats that try to lift on top of dumbbells and they easily tip over, but yet here we are putting trucks on top of them. Crazy world.
Thanks for the short video! I don't need to watch 25 minutes of someone explaining their whole shop setup haha
Glad you enjoyed it!
Also make sure the lift is turned the right way.
I've seen this comment a couple times. Why does this matter again. Just honestly curious.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Because as it's lifting, you'll have the heavy mass of the engine cantilevered out over the stand. It's lifting just behind the front tire, but only touching the ground about 1.5feet back from that. Lookup quickjack NSX on youtube. At the 18:15 mark of his video you'll see the car start to tip back. Since his engine is in the back, the large label on the jack should be towards the back also.
Actually you're not seeing the affect since your adapters are only a bit forward of where the quickjack rests on the ground. But still...
Whoa! Good thing your truck didn't fall! Thanks for the links!
👍
The part being called "truck adapter" would be enough for most people to use them the first time.
Not using the truck adapters on a truck... /smh
A used shop lift you can for around 1,500 bucks... those portable ones are ok, for R.S.A. emergencies...
Or if your garage concrete isn't thick enough for a shop lift...or if your garage ceiling isn't high enough for a shop lift...or if your single car garage doesn't have space for a shop lift...etc etc.
@@lynnmckenney1987 My thoughts exactly. There's a reason there is a market for these. Our ceiling is 10.5ft high and still not adequate for a 2 post because the garage door rails are even lower. Not to mention the builder concrete is likely only 2" thick at best.
That doesn’t look safe at all. Truck adapters big scary.
I almost got killed because of lacking of space when the jacks are not going down equally thus getting unbalanced on one side. I have a single car garage. I was lucky the car did not slide off the jacks. I finally succeeded got the jacks going down completely and i could take my car out. I think i got the lemon one. I returned the jacks.
It’s painfully obvious you aren’t under the CG of the truck. The ass shouldn’t be sagging that much. You either need the TLX. The frame extensions or move the jacks more rearward If there’s ample frame / jack support
What
You think I can swap my transmission on this? 2020 Corolla SE
Oh yes
Do you think you can drop engine and transmission as one unit using these quickjacks on say a lexus sedan?
Transmission yes. Engine not easily
User error 4 sure!
What do you think? The truck adapter are good invest and they stay safe without slipping or moving during lift up/down and working on the truck?
They are must when lifting a truck/suv. I feel pretty safe using them . They are pretty comparable to what's used in a dealership shop.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech thnx for the info and sharing
Am I the only one that thinks that truck was too far forward, it looks like the rearend was daggling? talk about shaking hands with danger!
.
Why would you stack the blocks if you have truck adapters? Smh.
Crazy part is the whole truck wobbles if you move it around I put my Yukon do denali and it lifts it easily but can’t lean on it it wobbles feels unsafe
Do we know why your truck fell of the quickjack (so we can learn from your experience)?
Because he used it wrong to make a clickbait video.
Why wouldn’t you use the truck adapter first because your lifting a truck.
The blocks are supplied with the jacks, the trucks adapters are sold separately and are a bit pricey, so ... the temptation to try to get away without purchasing the adapter is in my opinion pretty likely.
Great failure demo. Thanks! I would really like to know why the stacked blocks failed. It’s almost as if there was a shearing effect with the truck rails moving aft at a faster rate than the QJ rails, thereby causing the blocks to tip and fail. But this shearing force would be equally present with the truck adaptors. Can anyone explain the cause of this failure mode???
I just bought one of these Quickjacks. The shearing is because the jack moves back as is goes up. When the wheels touch, they grab the pavement causing the shear. My new Chevrolet Silverado 1500 has grease on the frame and the jack slide off the frame while this was happening. Lucky I didn't damage the pickup nor the jack. Next time the vehicle will be in neutral just when the tires are starting to drag.
@@nealconrardy Grease or is it wax? I thought GM was still applying a protective wax coating on the Silverado/Sierra's instead of powder-coating the frames....
@@manunava1776 It sure seems like a thick grease to me. It will stain your clothes if you get some on you. It doesn't resemble any wax I have ever seen.
The reason this happened is because the truck wasn’t lifted straight up. Truck was leaning back. Front tires were inches off the ground before rear was lifted. Watch it again. When the rear and the front are going up at a different rate, jacks needs to be moved one way or the other. Especially if blocks are stacked.
I made the mistake of double stacking the blocks-DONT Do It! Use the SUV/truck adapters. My adult son was almost pinned under the CRV when the blocks shifted and vehicle fell.
👍
The Quickjacks are great if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the car vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity.
I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack.
Might want to stack up brains instead of blocks🤣🤣
Holy s#!t!!! Watching the Tundra slip off those blocks was crazy! 😨 😳 😬
Definitely need to pick me up some quick-jacks though... nice video 🤣
They work great , highly recommended 🤣
The blocks go horizontal not vertical you moron, it was your fault not the manufactures.
Idiot.
HEY! I saw that Skyline. Think you’re slick huh?
They’re not heavy at all. 😂 ❄️
I see you got an r32 in the garage 👀, do these quick jacks work on that car too? I'm thinking about getting on, but the jacking points on the R32 gtr are all wierd.
Pretty much the reason I got them. Lifting all four corners at the same time eliminates the risk of damage.
Ok why would you even attempt to lift with the rubber blocks on a Tundra? Thats just being stupid right there. I have the same model quickjack for my tacoma which with all the skids and stuff I put on it weighs 6,000 lbs. I use truck adaptors and NEVER had any sort of problem. The main problem is people using the quickjacks WRONG UNSAFE manner that creates the situation that you had. I see so many people with mixed reviews on quickjacks and the negative reviews are almost always user error..... Ive had mine for 4 years now and never once dropped a vehicle....
Thanks for the comment. It’s appreciated. This is just a silly video, showing people what Not to do.
I used this jack system got car up the hydraulic motor blew up the car slammed on the ground very dangerous to be under a mid rise lift work better for me
The motor failed as the car was lifting? Certainly it didn't "slam" to the ground once it was already raised. The safety bars would have prevented this if it was lifted far enough.
God forbid that truck comes down on you and it's so high it doesn't matter lol.
Pretty sure you were using them backwards
Why would you tilt your car on them little pads.. user error
Looks like my garage tundra but with a mkv supra
I’m confused why the truck would fall off. Can someone explain it to me as if I’m extremely stupid?
🤷♂️
So the truck adapters are what to use for lifting a truck. Glad I watched a video for that. What stupid click bait when people are looking for actual info
Is it safe to work under the car using this?
oh yes. i use them all the time
It has safety locks in several positions. There are videos where the car falls sideways because the operator raises only high enough to hear one click instead of both rails clicking. To lower it, you must raise it slightly and manually disengage the locks.
USER ERROR!!!!!!!!! READ THE MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!!!
Umm.. I hope no one tries going under there. Still looks sketchy to me.
Hey I have a AC question for you?
😳…..😅
Has truck, does not use truck adapter
Not a tool for idiots. Obviously.
Click bait. Good one.
🤨
The background music of this vid is unnecessary and distracts from your otherwise helpful content. I'd rather hear the jack's working sounds. Turning off the music also mutes everything else.
Try this . Less music. ruclips.net/video/5P5Of6bEJB0/видео.htmlsi=DLbH-VdaKNSV88yO One video is for the younger generation.
I wouldn’t lift more than a Civic with that
Because you don't know about engineering.
This man is a goofy
Click..... bait
wtf is this
clickbait
Their 32.5lbs. That’s too heavy for you?
What’s 32 lbs?s. Surely we aren’t talking about the jacks.
don't buy this product as you need to deal with fluid and air leaks. there are other product that doesn't need hydralic fluid or air such as TLX-7000
(Disliked for foul language).