The slow drop is a safety feature in case the lower is triggered whilst someone is still underneath. To give them warning and time to escape. It’s a feature on industrial units.
I bought one of these generic lifts several years ago and am very happy with it. Very strong and simple to use. The big advantages are ease of use with a wide variety of vehicles, no need to modify the floor to use it (they spread the load over a huge area) and they are relatively easy to move around with the provided wheel set. They are a very good compromise for a home garage and can be easily taken with you if you move house. Be aware that they don't seem to ship with any grease in the pivot points, so hit them hard with grease on initial install.
@@seweryndymkowski5085 there is unfortunately just 1 setting for lowering speed - because the lift doesn’t know of there is load or not. If you set it slow while there is car on the lift, it will be really slow if the lift is empty. It is set by simple screw on the hydraulic pump that you loosen/tighten and it is regulating how fast the fluid can go thru that valve.
I have been looking for a budget lift for my garage here in the US. I really don’t care if it’s made in China as long as it’s solidly built and it’s within my budget. I like the design of this one and it seems pretty well made to me. Plus it has that open middle area which I want. And I have to say you did a good job rerouting all those lines. The electrical work was done very well…..kudos my friend.
I hired a mini digger with driver and watched him dig in the pre-marked place a pit then re-enforced it, added lights and made up a strong cover from railway sleepers/holders with handles 🛤 . Painted them bright yellow 😅 et voilà. Now i can stand underneath the car and all done with €350 💪. But your choice is fine as me personally my one suited me best. Good video👌👍
@JeronimoStilton14 By putting metal rods diagonally then horizontally around the walls and the floor then ³ inch mixed concrete and once dried i added metal frame on the inside all around and L shaped metal bar around the top edges just to make sure it doesn't collapse under heavy loads. As they say around here " just to be sure, to be sure, to be sure"
Man, just a big thank you for this detailed video !! It help me so much to correct the same problems as you, the wrong side of the hydraulic and cables, and the time he needs to go up before it goes down (because of my low level roof)
Thanks for the well done video. I am in the exact same situation. Two cars in a two-car garage with around 2 1/2 m ceiling height. I purchased a similar lift sold under the brand K Tool in the USA. It was a difficult decision due to lack of videos on the subject. FYI I am very pleased with mine after nearly a year.
@@garageproductions359 thanks, I’m not using it too often, but whenever I have to work on car, I’m looking forward to it rather than delaying it like before 🤣
There is a chrome pin at the top of the rams you need to check the position and tightness of the grub screws ,plus the magnetic push piston that lift the ratchet latches need to be kept clean from dust build up , other wise the lift is good for years use.Any problems with the lift not lifting look at the trip switch near the safety latch as these can get damaged very easily .You have to drive your car so the engine is over the hydraulic rams or you can bend the lift with a heavy car.👍
3.5 seconds is probably the required lift time for a full load (3500kg) vehicle. If your vehicle is half that you can get away with half the back off time to lower the vehicle. Just keep in mind if you ever put a Tesla on it (3000kg in some models) the back off time won’t be long enough and you won’t be able to lower the lift without modifying the timer.
I don't think he'll have to worry about that problem with a Tesla, that you mentioned. Only fools purchase Tesla "vehicles". And this man does not seem to me to be a fool.
Interesting video, nice product, and very tidy work. Maybe this is a silly question, but couldn't you have just turned the lift around to put the fittings on the side you needed? Does it matter which way the lift is oriented? Thanks, and cheers from Canada.
Thanks for watching - not a silly question at all - I reckon I should have clarified that in the video. You can turn the lift around, but the engine needs to be at front part of the lift - there is even a warning sticker on the lift reminding of this. Reason for that is that the rear "legs" are moving towards the front when it is raised. Therefore cars which are front heavy (ie. most FWD cars) the weight needs to be at the leg which is not moving - otherwise in extreme situation, the car could fall off the lift. This is unlikely to happen as usually the weight difference between front and rear is not huge - but it is better to be safe than sorry :)
I have a simliar-ish lift and no where in any of the documentation does it say anything about the "engine end" of the lift. Does that mean you will not be able to reverse onto your lift?
@@jagster0810 well mine does have a sticker (nothing in documentation either). I'm not planning to reverse on the lift, although I think nothing would really happen. To me the sticker does make logic though even if probably it is "over-cautions" 🙂
Egy magyar kommentet engedj meg, ha szabad: Nagyon korrekt lett a videód, élvezetes is nézni és jól magyarázol benne illetve meg is mutatod amit csinálsz részletesen :) Ment is a feliratkozás mert látom, hogy néha töltesz fel videót. Én szívesen néznék amúgy ilyen DIY videókat tőled bármilyen nyelven, látszik, hogy van hozzá érzéked :D
You can do that too, but front of the car should be at the front of the lift due to cars are mostly front heavy and the rear section of the legs is moving towards the front when your raising the lift. Also I could extend the cable, but not the hydraulic hoses as I don’t have any means to do that.
@@AlfisGarageYou still could've turned it around and parked your car reverse. that's unless something forbids you from doing that on the ceiling ofc. One of my car is rear heavy so turning it around could've worked for me anyway. For my SUV, I would have to park it reverse then.
@@ak-iy4yb if I park in reverse, drivers door would be at the wall and I couldn’t get out of the car 😃 This is the only way this would work for me. Others of course may have different situation 👍
I have one bought here in the US 8 yrs ago rate for 5000.00 lb. Pay like $1700.00. I have used it a lot. After multiple used. Hydraulic cylinder is getting weaker. Still work good but I don't trust it locking mechanism. So I only raise up to about 18 to 24 inch and put solid wood blocks under 4 tires just incase hydraulic fail. Raise 18 to 24 inch high is sufficent for most jobs you need to do for your car. I have replaced transmission using that setup. Better be safe than sorry.
@@AlfisGarageI have life insurance...but I would be not working under that thing without a proper security bolt on lock system. Changing tires and some brakes job ok, but going underneath is a death wish for every person with common sense.
@@jayroc1502 you’re right, I probably shouldn’t because I’m not a mechanic… but because many mechanics shoudn’t work on cars either, so I have to myself….
@@AviatorsGarage Thanks for watching! All scissor lifts have front and rear side and the front can bear more weight, where the engine usually is. I have a follow up video, as many people asked the same question :) ruclips.net/video/XTJm9Wge5FI/видео.htmlsi=Dk3pmysWFjCjGldw
Toll gemacht Dankeschön fürs mitnehmen darf ich mal fragen was der spaß gekostet hat und woher sie es bezogenen haben mfg Marcus Deutschland und schöne Grüße
Hallo Marcus! Thank you for watching! I purchased thru local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
OK, this might be a stupid question, but why not just rotate the entire assembly 180 degrees. It looks like you have ramps on the front and the back. That would have put your hoses on the other side, although the control box would have been in the corner nearest the garage door.
Not a stupid question at all!. There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
I like your video .could explanations on assembly good lighting the only thing I don't like , and this is just my criticism ,is the music. I've been a musician for 50 years when I keep hearing the same thing over and over and over again for 20 minutes it really starts to drive me nuts .you could have a little bit of light jazz playing that would be more suitable more calming and probably better for your video just a suggestion . I had to actually turn to sound down just to watch the rest of the video I only got about halfway through before I was ready to either turn it off or just turn down the music . all the best
He really don't care. Doing the same in next videos. Try to tell us something with music (most annoying one) in background. Will answer You only "Thanks for watching and for feedback"
Hello. It will be very helpful. By the way, is it possible to post a link where I can see the manufacturer and model number of the product I purchased? I'm looking at Alibaba in China, but there are so many models I'm confused. Thank you.
Hi, this is Kupczyk KPN-3500. This one is "made in Poland" but I think it is just rebranded china lift. Indeed there are many types/models, so you need to check parameters and size on each one to find the one which fit your needs.
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
You can drive on to the lift from both sides but Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
It seems to me that if you had turned the lift through 180 degrees (front to back) all of the hydraulic and electrical connections would have been on the "wall" side? What do I know......
That is correct, but the lift has front side which should be at the front of the car due to fact that most cars are front heavy. If I would turn it around I would have to reverse onto the lift. I’ll do a follow up video because the question was raised many times :)
Yeah that’s true, I was considering the indepentent ones, but all of those are supposed to be secured to the floor, which I didn’t want to do. Surely they seem like good option too 👍
Not exactly true. Although you can use the lift backwards, the front of the lift has more weight bearing than the rear, so it depends on the car you will use it for. I have a follow up video explaining that. Also - I haven't done anything I can't revert, so warranty should be still covered.
Well most 2 post lifts that I’ve seen were about 2.8m tall so they would barely fit - but I wouldn’t be able to raise the car much higher anyway - when I raise my M5 to 1 meter with this I have about 30cm left 👍
@@MarcoAspaas if interested, watch my follow up video, where among others I answer this question too :) ruclips.net/video/XTJm9Wge5FI/видео.htmlsi=MJ_IwS_mhkRjnRGK
There is indeed front side of the lift and the front of car should be on the front of the lift, due to weight distribution and the way how legs are moving. I’ll do a follow up video as the question was raised many times :)
Mine looks very similar except mine are black and named Teclift, it is marked in instructions as you mentioned in comments, the cars heavy side ( front) must be on same side as lift cylinder. Ill do the same as you in video, thanks for the tip...
@@junebrooks665 BTW there are single phase versions of these lifts and they are usually even cheaper. I opted for 3 phase because my single phase breaker for garage is only 16A and the 2.2kW motor could trip that sometimes when starting (at least my compressor does)
There is a screw/valve on the hydraulic pump that you either loosen or tighten to change how quickly the fluid flows. There is only 1 setting with or without load. If you set it slower while there is a load, it will be REALLY slow if there is no load.
In my case, when the car is on the lift and I want to lower it, it can be said that the car is falling and not lowering, I don't know where to look for the reason. Poland
@@seweryndymkowski5085 that was same for me :D look at my video at 5:50 you can see two “ screws” at the side of the pump - the black is a fitting for hydraulic - and behind it the silver screw is the valve. You need to tighten it a little bit - then test it.
When its loaded one second will not be enough to ensure that both security latches are fully released, if one get caught the ramp could drop only on one side !!!!!
Thanks for watching. That’s a valid point, I tested it with car and I think I left it somewhere around 1.5sec. I agree if it would be below 1 sec this could cause an issue. Having said that, the bottom tubes are synchronizers and should not allow one of the ramps go much lower than the other - but of course I never tested :) Have you experienced an issue like that?
Thanks for pointing out the timer. Never noticed it before and had some white knuckle moments hoping that the car wouldn't hit the ceiling before it went down. Going to make some adjustments. Thanks
@@antoinevandamme6506 you are correct, but the lift would be backwards and car should be at the front of the lift due to weight distribution. I’ll do a follow up video where I’ll explain as the same question was raised by many 👍
Agree and I actually did - I mentioned it in 17:45 of the video. It’s not rubber, but something similar and it really helps to keep the lift from moving around
That would mean the lift would be backwards and you’re supposed to have the front of the car at the front of the lift, due to possible weight shift. I reckon that is unlikely to happen, but moving the hoses around wasn’t such a big task, so I rather did it to be on the safe side :)
Possibly yes, but if I’d turn the lift around, the front side would be at the door and I would have to backup onto the lift. The engine of the car should be at the front of the lift. Also the hose would be a bit too short to put the control panel the way I wanted.
Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
The issue was that the hydraulics and cables were coming out between the two parking spots in the garage. I wanted them to come out at the wall side of the lift :)
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
I don't know from what I see. The thing has wheels. All you have to do is spin it around the other way and your wires would be on the other side. Against the wall tinstead, you instead, you spend 10 hours disconnecting everything moving it to the other side which was I don't think of it anyway, whatever you want to do that's all I would have done was just spun the damn thing around. Easy peasy
I wish it would be that easy :) The lift has its front and back side - the way how the legs move, the front can handle more weight and that is why the front of the car should be on the front side of the lift. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift. BTW - it may seem a bigger struggle than it was, but I swapped the lines and cables in about an hour and half... and that was with filming.
Of course that would be the easiest, but I have a door to the house on that side, so it wouldn't be practical for me - and I simply wanted to have the lift exactly where it is :) BTW, changing over the lines was really simple.
I don’t get it you mentioned how you were concerned about #Warranty and that’s why you didn’t buy from China, you definitely don’t have any warranty now you cut up the wires
Fair question, but depending on what goes wrong, cutting up the cables may or may not be related to the warranty claim. Also, i could still put everything back as it was - I didn’t do any irreversible changes.
Not that easy, because the lift has a front and rear side and the front is capable for more weight. Since most cars are front heavy, the car front needs to be at the front of the lift. I’m actually surprised how many people have raised this question. I’ll do a follow up video where I’ll try to explain.
No, I paid about 2500 EUR and I think you can find them even cheaper. That's including taxes, shipping, etc. 4000$ should get you a Twin Busch or something similar.
Bonjour, Un pont qui est bien pratique pour certains travaux mais, pas très pratique pour faire des gros travaux dessous à cause de sa hauteur minimale ou alors, prévoir une fosse au centre sur la longueur mais ça demanderait un travail en maçonnerie et un calcul pour éviter que le pont ne tombe pas...
Bonjour, of course you are correct - it is easier to work underneath a two-post lift, but that wouldn't fit in any usual home garage + I couldn't raise the car any higher anyway. Also two post lift takes up a lot more room. As you say, you could "dig a hole" but that is not an option for me :)
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
I'm in Slovakia, most houses have 3 phase power supply and I think this is true for many countries in Europe :) Apartments/flats have usually 1 phase - but even for those you can request to have 3 phase installed.
@@AlfisGarage Interesting. It's 220 in UK and I don't think I've ever seen power adaptors for sale meant for Europe other than 220 or 240 (old UK domestic voltage) Google also seems to think that the voltage used throughout Europe has been harmonised at 230v since January 2003 (though it does state that it doesn't mean there has been a real change in the supply) Certainly in the UK 3 phase is only really found in commercial buildings such as garages/machine shops etc.
@@Nite-owl Of course we have 230V - that's the usual 1 phase voltage in any home :)... it was 220V in the past... but it has been standardized as you say to 230V now..... when you have 3 phases of 230V, across the phases you would measure 400V (in the past it was 380v)
Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it. I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
Because these lifts have front and rear side and the car front should be at front of the lift due to weight distribution and how the legs are moving. I’ll do a follow up video, as the question was asked many times, so stay tuned!
I don't like it, worked in a hydraulic shop , anything from broken hose to blowed out china packing, that is made. They are better and safer lifts on the market than this.
That’s a fair point, but it is certainly safer than jack stands and in my view safer than many other alternatives. The metal used is thick and as long as both safety locks are engaged, it is not going to collapse. 👍
@@paulnewman3406 you can always add additional layers of support/safety. I’ll share some of my ideas on additional safety options in a follow up video.
The slow drop is a safety feature in case the lower is triggered whilst someone is still underneath. To give them warning and time to escape. It’s a feature on industrial units.
Your going to Love it! Working on the ground is very difficult and limits greatly what you can do. Cheer from the USA.
I bought one of these generic lifts several years ago and am very happy with it. Very strong and simple to use. The big advantages are ease of use with a wide variety of vehicles, no need to modify the floor to use it (they spread the load over a huge area) and they are relatively easy to move around with the provided wheel set.
They are a very good compromise for a home garage and can be easily taken with you if you move house.
Be aware that they don't seem to ship with any grease in the pivot points, so hit them hard with grease on initial install.
Thanks for the tip, I’ll check grease on joints.
@@AlfisGarage Hello, do you know how to set the lowering speed of the lift with a load?
@@seweryndymkowski5085 there is unfortunately just 1 setting for lowering speed - because the lift doesn’t know of there is load or not. If you set it slow while there is car on the lift, it will be really slow if the lift is empty.
It is set by simple screw on the hydraulic pump that you loosen/tighten and it is regulating how fast the fluid can go thru that valve.
I have been looking for a budget lift for my garage here in the US. I really don’t care if it’s made in China as long as it’s solidly built and it’s within my budget. I like the design of this one and it seems pretty well made to me. Plus it has that open middle area which I want. And I have to say you did a good job rerouting all those lines. The electrical work was done very well…..kudos my friend.
Thanks for watching! :)
This lift is sold under many brands. It’s awesome. Got rid of my quick jack for this.
I hired a mini digger with driver and watched him dig in the pre-marked place a pit then re-enforced it, added lights and made up a strong cover from railway sleepers/holders with handles 🛤 . Painted them bright yellow 😅 et voilà. Now i can stand underneath the car and all done with €350 💪.
But your choice is fine as me personally my one suited me best.
Good video👌👍
reinforced it how?
@JeronimoStilton14 By putting metal rods diagonally then horizontally around the walls and the floor then ³ inch mixed concrete and once dried i added metal frame on the inside all around and L shaped metal bar around the top edges just to make sure it doesn't collapse under heavy loads. As they say around here " just to be sure, to be sure, to be sure"
Man, just a big thank you for this detailed video !!
It help me so much to correct the same problems as you, the wrong side of the hydraulic and cables, and the time he needs to go up before it goes down (because of my low level roof)
Thanks for watching, I’m glad it helped! :)
Thanks for the well done video. I am in the exact same situation. Two cars in a two-car garage with around 2 1/2 m ceiling height. I purchased a similar lift sold under the brand K Tool in the USA. It was a difficult decision due to lack of videos on the subject. FYI I am very pleased with mine after nearly a year.
Thanks for watching! These seem to be fairly well made and hope they will work for years to come :)
Could dig a pit
Nice setup. I should look something similar. Currently just working on floor or outside, in front of garage.
@@garageproductions359 thanks, I’m not using it too often, but whenever I have to work on car, I’m looking forward to it rather than delaying it like before 🤣
There is a chrome pin at the top of the rams you need to check the position and tightness of the grub screws ,plus the magnetic push piston that lift the ratchet latches need to be kept clean from dust build up ,
other wise the lift is good for years use.Any problems with the lift not lifting look at the trip switch near the safety latch as these can get damaged very easily .You have to drive your car so the engine is over the hydraulic rams or you can bend the lift with a heavy car.👍
Thank you for advice, I will check that 👍
3.5 seconds is probably the required lift time for a full load (3500kg) vehicle. If your vehicle is half that you can get away with half the back off time to lower the vehicle. Just keep in mind if you ever put a Tesla on it (3000kg in some models) the back off time won’t be long enough and you won’t be able to lower the lift without modifying the timer.
That's a good point, thankfully it's easy to change it back if ever needed 👍
I don't think he'll have to worry about that problem with a Tesla, that you mentioned. Only fools purchase Tesla "vehicles". And this man does not seem to me to be a fool.
@@johnsmith7676 haha :) I've got nothing against Tesla's, but don't see myself owning one in near future.
Interesting video, nice product, and very tidy work. Maybe this is a silly question, but couldn't you have just turned the lift around to put the fittings on the side you needed? Does it matter which way the lift is oriented? Thanks, and cheers from Canada.
Thanks for watching - not a silly question at all - I reckon I should have clarified that in the video.
You can turn the lift around, but the engine needs to be at front part of the lift - there is even a warning sticker on the lift reminding of this.
Reason for that is that the rear "legs" are moving towards the front when it is raised.
Therefore cars which are front heavy (ie. most FWD cars) the weight needs to be at the leg which is not moving - otherwise in extreme situation, the car could fall off the lift.
This is unlikely to happen as usually the weight difference between front and rear is not huge - but it is better to be safe than sorry :)
I have a simliar-ish lift and no where in any of the documentation does it say anything about the "engine end" of the lift. Does that mean you will not be able to reverse onto your lift?
@@jagster0810 well mine does have a sticker (nothing in documentation either). I'm not planning to reverse on the lift, although I think nothing would really happen. To me the sticker does make logic though even if probably it is "over-cautions" 🙂
Mine also does not say which way round😳
@@tonyford7987 fair enough - I’ll do a follow up video, will show the sticker. I think the concern applies to all scissor lifts
You can use it to lift crates of tyskie and zyweich. Love from england
Egy magyar kommentet engedj meg, ha szabad: Nagyon korrekt lett a videód, élvezetes is nézni és jól magyarázol benne illetve meg is mutatod amit csinálsz részletesen :) Ment is a feliratkozás mert látom, hogy néha töltesz fel videót. Én szívesen néznék amúgy ilyen DIY videókat tőled bármilyen nyelven, látszik, hogy van hozzá érzéked :D
Szia Kristof, koszi a pozitiv visszajelzest! 😀
Probably a good idea to wear more appropriate footwear when handling heavy things
Can’t argue with that :)
Very good video - easy to follow and great workmanship.
Thank you for watching! 🙂
why didn't you just turn it 180 degrees and extend the cable if required?
You can do that too, but front of the car should be at the front of the lift due to cars are mostly front heavy and the rear section of the legs is moving towards the front when your raising the lift.
Also I could extend the cable, but not the hydraulic hoses as I don’t have any means to do that.
I am sure if you import from china cable management should be a doodle
@@AlfisGarageYou still could've turned it around and parked your car reverse. that's unless something forbids you from doing that on the ceiling ofc. One of my car is rear heavy so turning it around could've worked for me anyway. For my SUV, I would have to park it reverse then.
@@ak-iy4yb if I park in reverse, drivers door would be at the wall and I couldn’t get out of the car 😃 This is the only way this would work for me. Others of course may have different situation 👍
@@AlfisGarage We all wish there was more than ample space in the garage. I feel you!
I have one bought here in the US 8 yrs ago rate for 5000.00 lb. Pay like $1700.00. I have used it a lot. After multiple used. Hydraulic cylinder is getting weaker. Still work good but I don't trust it locking mechanism. So I only raise up to about 18 to 24 inch and put solid wood blocks under 4 tires just incase hydraulic fail. Raise 18 to 24 inch high is sufficent for most jobs you need to do for your car. I have replaced transmission using that setup. Better be safe than sorry.
Good insight! Thanks!
Maybe you have an issue with some seal in the pump?
@@AlfisGarageI have life insurance...but I would be not working under that thing without a proper security bolt on lock system. Changing tires and some brakes job ok, but going underneath is a death wish for every person with common sense.
I don’t want to rain on your parade, but for a Polish product, the control box contains plenty of the finest chinesium known to mankind!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Haha, I don’t doubt that :) we shall see how long it will hold!
And as a Mercediez fan, you suffer from something far worse. It's a disease, it's called overprizedesium. Good luck on your Stellantis.
Watching you unbox that thing makes me wonder if you should even be working on cars.
@@jayroc1502 you’re right, I probably shouldn’t because I’m not a mechanic… but because many mechanics shoudn’t work on cars either, so I have to myself….
Great video! Question- how come you didn’t just turn the lift 180 degrees? It would have moved the cables to the other side? 🤔
@@AviatorsGarage Thanks for watching! All scissor lifts have front and rear side and the front can bear more weight, where the engine usually is. I have a follow up video, as many people asked the same question :) ruclips.net/video/XTJm9Wge5FI/видео.htmlsi=Dk3pmysWFjCjGldw
Very nice lift! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
1 minute in and I'm thinking "Excellent footware for moving heavy boxes around"!!!!
Above all comfortable! 🤣
good video. loved the modification.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just to clarify - this one has been designed and made in Poland. This is not cheap Chinese ****.
That's good to hear! Is there any resource online to get that confirmed?
Great video! I have a very similar garage and I'm looking for a lift like yours. Where did you buy it? What was your total coast?
Thanks for watching!
I bought it from a local eshop and the total was about 2500eur. Try to google KPN-3500 to see if there is any near you.
Nice, any link on where to buy?
Thanks for watching! This is where I bought it from: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
I like you unpacking method is awesome
What brand and where u buy in USA ? Looks good !
This one is a Polish brand - Kupczyk, I don't think they have US shop, but I'm sure there are very similar lifts in US for similar price
Toll gemacht Dankeschön fürs mitnehmen darf ich mal fragen was der spaß gekostet hat und woher sie es bezogenen haben mfg Marcus Deutschland und schöne Grüße
Hallo Marcus! Thank you for watching! I purchased thru local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
The lift works great. It's nicely made. Thanks for the video. Cheers Tony
OK, this might be a stupid question, but why not just rotate the entire assembly 180 degrees. It looks like you have ramps on the front and the back. That would have put your hoses on the other side, although the control box would have been in the corner nearest the garage door.
Not a stupid question at all!. There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
Many thanks for the video. Where did you buy this from please. link to the the seller please
Thanks for watching! This is where I bought it from: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
A really good unit for the price fella.
Thanks, indeed for my space this works fine :)
I like your video .could explanations on assembly good lighting the only thing I don't like , and this is just my criticism ,is the music. I've been a musician for 50 years when I keep hearing the same thing over and over and over again for 20 minutes it really starts to drive me nuts .you could have a little bit of light jazz playing that would be more suitable more calming and probably better for your video just a suggestion . I had to actually turn to sound down just to watch the rest of the video I only got about halfway through before I was ready to either turn it off or just turn down the music . all the best
Thanks for watching and for feedback 👍
He really don't care. Doing the same in next videos. Try to tell us something with music (most annoying one) in background. Will answer You only "Thanks for watching and for feedback"
Nice video!!! Where did you buy it?
Thanks for watching! I bought it in local eshop - if you search for KPN-3500 you could find it. They are made in poland (or assembled in poland)
Hello. It will be very helpful. By the way, is it possible to post a link where I can see the manufacturer and model number of the product I purchased? I'm looking at Alibaba in China, but there are so many models I'm confused. Thank you.
Hi, this is Kupczyk KPN-3500. This one is "made in Poland" but I think it is just rebranded china lift. Indeed there are many types/models, so you need to check parameters and size on each one to find the one which fit your needs.
Thanks！
whats that lighter you used for heat shrink? you hit it on the floor and it lit up?? looked good haha
It has the igniter in the back, like a ball pen :)
Good job! I want one..
Thanks for watching!
Could you not just turn the lift 180 degrees instead of rerunning the lines? Just an idea. No real front of back to the lift.
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
If you are able to drive onto the lift from either side, would turning the lift 180 degrees have worked to get the hoses and wires on the other side?
You can drive on to the lift from both sides but Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front.
If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it.
I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
Thanks Alfie.
Scissor lifts are universal, made for front, mid, or rear engine cars.
@@xromeodelacruzx that is of course true 👍
Great video and hmm I would just have turned the entire unit by 180 degrees easier isn't it?
Watch my follow up video where I explain turning it around was not a solution for me 👍
Great video. Thanks man 👍👌💪
Thanks for watching! :)
It seems to me that if you had turned the lift through 180 degrees (front to back) all of the hydraulic and electrical connections would have been on the "wall" side?
What do I know......
That is correct, but the lift has front side which should be at the front of the car due to fact that most cars are front heavy. If I would turn it around I would have to reverse onto the lift. I’ll do a follow up video because the question was raised many times :)
the metal rods between the 2 are a pain with this lift if you want to roll underneath it. i've seen independent ones not hydraulic and much lighter.
Yeah that’s true, I was considering the indepentent ones, but all of those are supposed to be secured to the floor, which I didn’t want to do. Surely they seem like good option too 👍
Nice video. I was thinking of getting similar.
Thank you for watching! If you work on your cars, just go for it! :)
Instead of invalidating the warranty I would have spun it round, you can use these lifts either way round
Not exactly true. Although you can use the lift backwards, the front of the lift has more weight bearing than the rear, so it depends on the car you will use it for. I have a follow up video explaining that.
Also - I haven't done anything I can't revert, so warranty should be still covered.
2.8m is tall enough for a 2 post lift - especially if you dig a half pit (50cm deep would be enough for most cars).
Well most 2 post lifts that I’ve seen were about 2.8m tall so they would barely fit - but I wouldn’t be able to raise the car much higher anyway - when I raise my M5 to 1 meter with this I have about 30cm left 👍
Everyone can be turned to how you want it to be including yours.
Could you tell the price and where you buy it?
I bought from local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
Wouldn't it have been easier to just turn the lift around 180 degrees, so the lines were on the other side?
@@MarcoAspaas if interested, watch my follow up video, where among others I answer this question too :) ruclips.net/video/XTJm9Wge5FI/видео.htmlsi=MJ_IwS_mhkRjnRGK
Do you have a link of where you purchased from?
I purchased from a local eshop in Slovakia: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
Wow, never seen one that goes up high enough to actually stand under the car.
No, this doesn't go that high :) I was sitting under the car. There are however also full height scissor lifts, underneath which you can stand
Doing work on the transmission would be a pain with this I would think.
I hope I will never have to, but it should be doable :)
just add removable platform for center
i'm curious, instead of removing all the cables and pipes, why didnt you just spin the jack around, there s no front or rear?
There is indeed front side of the lift and the front of car should be on the front of the lift, due to weight distribution and the way how legs are moving. I’ll do a follow up video as the question was raised many times :)
@@AlfisGarage Then just back the car in.
Mine looks very similar except mine are black and named Teclift, it is marked in instructions as you mentioned in comments, the cars heavy side ( front) must be on same side as lift cylinder.
Ill do the same as you in video, thanks for the tip...
How do you manage to get 3-phase electricity in your home!
It is pretty standard over here, all homes have 3 phase (400V) only smaller flats/apartments have usually 1 phase (230V)
@@AlfisGarage wowwww how far are we behind the world here in the UK
@@junebrooks665 BTW there are single phase versions of these lifts and they are usually even cheaper. I opted for 3 phase because my single phase breaker for garage is only 16A and the 2.2kW motor could trip that sometimes when starting (at least my compressor does)
Excellent,wish l had one
Hello, do you know how to set the lowering speed of the lift with a load?
There is a screw/valve on the hydraulic pump that you either loosen or tighten to change how quickly the fluid flows. There is only 1 setting with or without load. If you set it slower while there is a load, it will be REALLY slow if there is no load.
In my case, when the car is on the lift and I want to lower it, it can be said that the car is falling and not lowering, I don't know where to look for the reason. Poland
@@seweryndymkowski5085 that was same for me :D look at my video at 5:50 you can see two “ screws” at the side of the pump - the black is a fitting for hydraulic - and behind it the silver screw is the valve. You need to tighten it a little bit - then test it.
I have one more question
is there a sensor to make the lift slow down more before the end of lowering?
@@seweryndymkowski5085 no there is no such sensor and its not possible to do something like that on simple one way pumps like this.
When its loaded one second will not be enough to ensure that both security latches are fully released, if one get caught the ramp could drop only on one side !!!!!
Thanks for watching. That’s a valid point, I tested it with car and I think I left it somewhere around 1.5sec. I agree if it would be below 1 sec this could cause an issue.
Having said that, the bottom tubes are synchronizers and should not allow one of the ramps go much lower than the other - but of course I never tested :)
Have you experienced an issue like that?
Thanks for pointing out the timer. Never noticed it before and had some white knuckle moments hoping that the car wouldn't hit the ceiling before it went down. Going to make some adjustments. Thanks
if you start modifying then you have no warrantee it will always go up before going down to release any locks
I agree about the warranty, it is a risk I’m willing to take. Yes, it must go up to release the locks, I understand the principle :)
@@AlfisGarage Could you not have turned everything 180 degree than the hoses and cables are on the other side.
@@antoinevandamme6506 you are correct, but the lift would be backwards and car should be at the front of the lift due to weight distribution. I’ll do a follow up video where I’ll explain as the same question was raised by many 👍
I'm always wandering when I see people working with heavy equipment and wearing flipflops....
Where did you buy it from,any links
I bought it from local eshop - www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
@@AlfisGarage thank you
Alf put a rubber mat under the metal , no moving or scratching floor.
Agree and I actually did - I mentioned it in 17:45 of the video. It’s not rubber, but something similar and it really helps to keep the lift from moving around
quickjak mighta been a better option imo
I can sit underneath the car, while I would still need to lay on the floor under the quickjack.
Just turn 180degrees?
That would mean the lift would be backwards and you’re supposed to have the front of the car at the front of the lift, due to possible weight shift. I reckon that is unlikely to happen, but moving the hoses around wasn’t such a big task, so I rather did it to be on the safe side :)
Please do a follow up.Thanks
Sure I will! :)
Couldn’t you just transfer you electric point to the other wall ,then turn ramp round.🥸
Possibly yes, but if I’d turn the lift around, the front side would be at the door and I would have to backup onto the lift. The engine of the car should be at the front of the lift. Also the hose would be a bit too short to put the control panel the way I wanted.
Or turn it upside down 😂
@@micktheclick1 🤣that didn't cross my mind!
Great job.
Why not just move it to the opposite side of the garage, save yourself a headache 😂
Why could you not have just rotated it 180 moving the cables closer the the other wall? Surely that would have been easier?
Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front.
If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it.
I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
@@AlfisGarage Ok gotcha. Nice work with the transformation anyhow 🙂
why didn't you just turn it around instead of reinstalling electric and hydraulics?
Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front.
If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it.
I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
Link to product?
I bought it from: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
Why do you say yours cost $1500, but when I check them out, they're around $2500?
I don't recall I would ever say that... I actually paid about 2500 Eur for it.... so yeah, nowhere near 1500$
Name of the liftar?… for USA im in Venezuela
It is called KPN-3500
The 2nd car was well in the garage already.... I don't get the issue in the first place 😆
The issue was that the hydraulics and cables were coming out between the two parking spots in the garage. I wanted them to come out at the wall side of the lift :)
WHY COULDNT YOU SPIN THE WHOLE THING ROUND TO GET THE CABLES ON THE OTHER SIDE ?
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
I don't know from what I see. The thing has wheels. All you have to do is spin it around the other way and your wires would be on the other side. Against the wall tinstead, you instead, you spend 10 hours disconnecting everything moving it to the other side which was I don't think of it anyway, whatever you want to do that's all I would have done was just spun the damn thing around. Easy peasy
I wish it would be that easy :) The lift has its front and back side - the way how the legs move, the front can handle more weight and that is why the front of the car should be on the front side of the lift. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift. BTW - it may seem a bigger struggle than it was, but I swapped the lines and cables in about an hour and half... and that was with filming.
Why don't you just turn it around instead of rerouting the lines?
@@tonyp9609 I did a follow up video explaining exactly that: ruclips.net/video/XTJm9Wge5FI/видео.htmlsi=2cU4QQkxAR3fKjvp
@@AlfisGarage Sorry, only watch this video, didn't know you had a second one.
@@tonyp9609 yeah, many people had the same question, so I decided to do an update video and also show some upgrades I did in the meanwhile :)
@@AlfisGarage Thank You
why didn't you just simply turn the hole unit around and face the other way ????
The lift has a front side and the front of the car should be at the front of the lift due to weight distribution.
From Poland 😁
Yes, it is from Poland, but I think it is rebranded chinese lift 😀 I’m happy to be corrected if this is actually built in Poland 👍
@@AlfisGarage The lift may be Polish, but the pump is Chinese
Que seguridad dan de no morir aplastado y si se baje de golpe son 1500 a 2000 kilos sobre mi cabeza 😟😩
I will do a review of the lift and its security features etc. Stay tuned! :)
Couldn't you just use it on the otherside of the garage? Then all the lines would be on the outside garage wall and not in the center.
Of course that would be the easiest, but I have a door to the house on that side, so it wouldn't be practical for me - and I simply wanted to have the lift exactly where it is :) BTW, changing over the lines was really simple.
I understand, thanks for the reply.@@AlfisGarage
do you have a link
I bought it thru a local eshop: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/
I don’t get it you mentioned how you were concerned about #Warranty and that’s why you didn’t buy from China, you definitely don’t have any warranty now you cut up the wires
Fair question, but depending on what goes wrong, cutting up the cables may or may not be related to the warranty claim. Also, i could still put everything back as it was - I didn’t do any irreversible changes.
Just turn the lift around rather than messing with the tubes and cables.
Not that easy, because the lift has a front and rear side and the front is capable for more weight. Since most cars are front heavy, the car front needs to be at the front of the lift. I’m actually surprised how many people have raised this question. I’ll do a follow up video where I’ll try to explain.
$3000-$4000 USD for this lift?
No, I paid about 2500 EUR and I think you can find them even cheaper. That's including taxes, shipping, etc. 4000$ should get you a Twin Busch or something similar.
Bonjour,
Un pont qui est bien pratique pour certains travaux mais, pas très pratique pour faire des gros travaux dessous à cause de sa hauteur minimale ou alors, prévoir une fosse au centre sur la longueur mais ça demanderait un travail en maçonnerie et un calcul pour éviter que le pont ne tombe pas...
Bonjour, of course you are correct - it is easier to work underneath a two-post lift, but that wouldn't fit in any usual home garage + I couldn't raise the car any higher anyway. Also two post lift takes up a lot more room.
As you say, you could "dig a hole" but that is not an option for me :)
instead of redoing the hydo lins why dont you just spin the lift around
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
Could you not of just turned the whole thing around 180 degrees?
There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)
After all this and you didn't even show a car going on it going up and down?
@@Mark-079er I did, at the very end of the video 👍
Скажите номер запчасти электромагнитного подъёма тормаз...если не затруднит
Sorry, can’t see any part number on that electromagnet, but it should be some common electromagnet
Why don't you put down a rubber mat. You have a tiled floor hardly ideal. You'll crack a tile soon enough.
I did, look at 17:45 👍
@@AlfisGarage Sorry didn't watch the whole thing.
First question: Which country has 3 phase 400v power supply in homes? 😳
I'm in Slovakia, most houses have 3 phase power supply and I think this is true for many countries in Europe :) Apartments/flats have usually 1 phase - but even for those you can request to have 3 phase installed.
@@AlfisGarage Interesting. It's 220 in UK and I don't think I've ever seen power adaptors for sale meant for Europe other than 220 or 240 (old UK domestic voltage) Google also seems to think that the voltage used throughout Europe has been harmonised at 230v since January 2003 (though it does state that it doesn't mean there has been a real change in the supply) Certainly in the UK 3 phase is only really found in commercial buildings such as garages/machine shops etc.
@@Nite-owl Of course we have 230V - that's the usual 1 phase voltage in any home :)... it was 220V in the past... but it has been standardized as you say to 230V now..... when you have 3 phases of 230V, across the phases you would measure 400V (in the past it was 380v)
Could you not just turn the lift around and put the ramps on the other end rather than all that extra work
Front of the car should be at the front of the lift, due to the way how scissor legs move and cars are usually heavier at the front.
If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift to be able to use it.
I’ll do a follow up video, as this question was raised couple of times :)
Why didn't you just turn it around ???????
Because these lifts have front and rear side and the car front should be at front of the lift due to weight distribution and how the legs are moving. I’ll do a follow up video, as the question was asked many times, so stay tuned!
I don't like it, worked in a hydraulic shop , anything from broken hose to blowed out china packing, that is made. They are better and safer lifts on the market than this.
Thanks for feedback. Any suggestion what to replace/ how to make it better?
In fact you don't know nothing about scissors lift
I don't know why the RUclips Algo want me to watch this video... Have you paid for it ?
I don’t know why it gets recommended 😂
@@AlfisGarage
Ok, i was curious.
Hope you the best with your chanel.
Bye
Its a great video, but the bloody music is driving me crazy
Will try and improve on that ✌️
Don’t know if I’d feel safe under that
That’s a fair point, but it is certainly safer than jack stands and in my view safer than many other alternatives. The metal used is thick and as long as both safety locks are engaged, it is not going to collapse. 👍
Might be worth considering getting one then
@@paulnewman3406 you can always add additional layers of support/safety. I’ll share some of my ideas on additional safety options in a follow up video.
Excellent
Why music in background when you talking?
I’m usually lowering the music volume when talking - sorry if you can’t understand. I suppose it may be still loud on some speakers 🤷🏻♂️
What am I doing with my life
If you are going to do this kind of work, take them stupid things off your feet and put some proper shoes on.
Yeah, I totally get that. I watch videos on lifts to inspect other people's footwear as well.