- Видео 54
- Просмотров 59 648
Pete From Hill Country
США
Добавлен 16 авг 2014
Welcome to my channel. I'm a former Wisconsinite, now retired in Texas Hill Country. This channel will contain a variety of topics, some informational, some just for fun. Topics include work on my 1966 Chevy Caprice, reloading and test firing ammunition, and other hobbies.
Auxiliary Fuse Block for 1966 Chevrolet Caprice
In this video, I build and test an auxiliary fuse block that will be installed in my 1966 Chevrolet Caprice. This new fuse block will handle any newly added features that rely on power when the key is switched on. I got this idea from a RUclips video from a channel called "Broken Wrenches."
ruclips.net/video/h9oIub2FSuI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/h9oIub2FSuI/видео.html
Просмотров: 11
Видео
1966 chevy Caprice New Gauge Package Pt 2
Просмотров 2521 день назад
In part 2 of this series, we complete the installation by installing and testing all of the wiring for each gauge.
1966 chevy Caprice New Gauge Package
Просмотров 14Месяц назад
In part one, the old gauge package is removed, and a new retro style gauge cluster is fitted. Part two will complete the installation.
Quick Jack 7000TL vs 2020 Lincoln MKZ
Просмотров 252 месяца назад
Got to use the QuickJack on my wife's car for an oil change and tire rotation. This was the first time, so some extra time was needed to line up the lifting blocks with the pinch welds. You'll see it in more detail in the video.
1966 chevy Caprice Power Steering Pump Replacement
Просмотров 702 месяца назад
It's not always about adding performance parts or spiffy add-ons. Things wear out on old cars, and sometimes you have to fix a problem. In this video, I have to replace a leaking power steering pump.
1966 Chevrolet Caprice Cigarette Lighter Repair
Просмотров 224 месяца назад
In this video, I get the old cigarette lighter working in the '66 Caprice. I also install an inline fuse so that it has something between the lighter and the battery. These older cars did not have fused lighters for some reason.
1966 chevy Caprice New Exhaust
Просмотров 1636 месяцев назад
The old exhaust system was in pretty bad shape. Rusted components and mismatched parts made for a loud ride. But we've put in a new after market OEM design dual system from Classic Exhaust out of Sebring, FL. No complaints from me - the system bolted up with no issues.
Remington Model 11 Stock Restoration
Просмотров 8858 месяцев назад
Remington Model 11 Stock Restoration
Browning Auto 5 Recoil Pad Replacement
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Browning Auto 5 Recoil Pad Replacement
Excalibur Mag 340 Performance - 2023 Wisconsin Deer Hunt
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Excalibur Mag 340 Performance - 2023 Wisconsin Deer Hunt
GMC Sierra Oil Change and Tire Rotation
Просмотров 2189 месяцев назад
GMC Sierra Oil Change and Tire Rotation
Excalibur Crossbow Sight in Part 2
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Excalibur Crossbow Sight in Part 2
Octane Lighting LED Headlight Installation
Просмотров 1 тыс.Год назад
Octane Lighting LED Headlight Installation
Wimberly Texas - September Coffee and Cars
Просмотров 99Год назад
Wimberly Texas - September Coffee and Cars
Gateway Classic Cars - Caffeine and Chrome August 2023 Car Show
Просмотров 542Год назад
Gateway Classic Cars - Caffeine and Chrome August 2023 Car Show
Quickjack 7000TL vs. 2021 GMC Sierra Pickup
Просмотров 17 тыс.Год назад
Quickjack 7000TL vs. 2021 GMC Sierra Pickup
Gateway Motors July 2023 Caffeine and Chrome Car Show
Просмотров 451Год назад
Gateway Motors July 2023 Caffeine and Chrome Car Show
U-joint Replacement on 1966 Chevrolet Caprice
Просмотров 254Год назад
U-joint Replacement on 1966 Chevrolet Caprice
Shifter Conversion in 1966 Chevy Caprice - The Work
Просмотров 148Год назад
Shifter Conversion in 1966 Chevy Caprice - The Work
Column Shifter to Floor Conversion - 1966 Chevy Caprice - Overview
Просмотров 548Год назад
Column Shifter to Floor Conversion - 1966 Chevy Caprice - Overview
Quick Jack 7000TL Car and Truck Lift
Просмотров 3,4 тыс.Год назад
Quick Jack 7000TL Car and Truck Lift
1966 Chevy Caprice - Checking plug burn, cylinder condition and vacuum tuning the carburetor
Просмотров 32Год назад
1966 Chevy Caprice - Checking plug burn, cylinder condition and vacuum tuning the carburetor
In this video the quickjack lifts are literally backwards, second video I saw today where this happened. And yes, it 100% does matter! You want the stickers towards the HEAVY (engine) end. If you look at the angle of the braces you will see why. One way the weight pushes against the frame, the other way it tips it.
I'm poor can I have the old scopes for bomb not too expensive
Sorry - sold it already.
It could be the broad heads making the bolt loose stability at that range. Mechanical broad heads will give you better stability at distance. Iv been using G5 mega meats out of my Excalibur 308 short & they have been flying just like the field points.
There was a problem with the bow itself that I found after posting the video. The screws holding the scope rail were a little loose, allowing the rail to shift a little. That was causing the trouble. I went through the whole bow and made sure everything was tight and it was fine after that. I have a follow-up video explaining that, if you're interested in seeing it. Thanks for the comments!
I was just looking at your video Great video. I have a 1966 impala.Twoo and I'm ready to do the headlights.Just the way you did it, but I wanted to ask you.What was the number on the parts With the light bulbs too,, That Way I can order it... I subscribe in your channel. Already.I would really appreciate that.Thank you
I don't have the boxes anymore, but I'm pretty sure they were the set of four and they came with halogen bulbs (prod. 10523). You have to order the LED bulbs to suit your preference. They have several to choose from. Hope this helps.
Thanks Pete
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I cant understand why a person cant be satisfied with the original equipment thats worked fine for a hundred years.
Well, to be more accurate, the old safety was not popular with the public, which is essentially why Remington changed the design The "new" trigger safety that I added was designed by Remington about 90 years ago. Their cross bolt design fit perfectly; a credit to Remington for making the parts interchangeable. I'm sure a lot of folks had this change done to their guns back then.
Get yourself a Excalibur DLX has everything lighted aiming point with yardage 20-30-40-50-60 yds and is 30 mm tube and 44 mm main lens! Shoot the NAP Spitfire Double Cross 4 blade expandable. 100 grn target tips will for exactly in same hole as Broadheads! If you have any wind or flinch with fixed blades you get side to side movement! I have shot Excalibur for 15 yrs your all over the place for 30 yds! The small Allen head screws on the side of the rail are loose need to be tightened! One shot up one down is them screws! Been there done that with half dozen excaliburs I worked on in my shop! Good luck Excalibur’s are the best in the Business!
Thanks for the input
Hi , do you have a part number for the booster ? Im want ti add this upgrade to my 66 impala. Thanks
The SKU listed on the Comp Cams website is 5200CPG. I see that the price for this one is now 82.95, but other brands go for half that. Check out Summit Racing or even Amazon for a cheaper alternative. Good luck!
Same with my micro extrem even worse I wasn’t able to tighten it went lose after just few shots. So I used a two component glue now it’s fixed forever. As much as I love excalibur but that’s some very stupid design, the rail should be connected to the frame not the trigger mechanism.
Agreed - too much cost cutting at the expense of quality.
what about replacement bulbs down the line??
They are available directly from Octane Lighting. That's where I got the LSD bulbs that replaced the halogens that the lenses came with. They're also available on Amazon. I found them there as well. On my car, I have to take out the lenses to replace the bulbs, but that only takes a few minutes.
Do you notice any wear on the bottom of the quick jacks from sliding them around? I’m interested but would be on pavement for most my work. I wish they came with bearings on the bottom. I’m just concerned the scraping would lead to eventual rust etc.
I actually added some ball bearing casters to mine. So, I don't think there has been much wear from rolling them around. I saw that hack on RUclips - I think I posted a link on the original video that has them lifting the Chevy.
oh I was looking for a video like this for a while! I just picked up a 2020 GMC 1500 Denali and wondering how this would work. I have a few other vehicles (Civic, CX9, SS) so I wanted to make sure I get one that can do it all. Now I just need the truck adapters to come back in stock.
Thanks for the comment. The TL currently works okay for my truck, but you'll want to measure the wheelbase to make sure it will work for you as well. Good luck!
I have sportsman in 12-16 34&37 Both checkered
I'd love to get my hands on a 16. They're a little rich for my blood though...😁
Surprised no one has mentioned this yet. The lift units in the video are 180 degrees from the intended location. The intended front is facing the rear. This can cause the load to tip forward. I just got mine and have been reading the manual, otherwise I probably would have missed it.
I think it was mentioned before. I missed it in the instructions when I first lifted the car. Since then I have the jack reversed for all work done with it. Thanks for commenting - it's worth reminding folks of this.
@@petefromhillcountry3268 That’s good to hear. I saw one video of someone lifting a car that started tipping forward because of that. Btw, awesome car!!!
If that's smegma....you better see your doctor soon!!! LOL Thanks for the vid!
HA!😅
LOOOOOOOOOOOL MENTAL DISABLED COMEDY GOLD
😊
Pete, don’t be so hard on yourself! You did a fine job, looks great!
Thanks for the compliment! Not being a pro at this process, I was actually surprised that it turned out as well as it did. Anyway, the shoe polish darkened it down enough that it sort of blended the checkering so it looked better.
Thanks for the video, I was debating between the 7000TL and the 7000TLX. I have a pick up, full-size SUV and two cars. Seeing you use the TL for your truck helped me settle on which one to get, because the TLX may not work with one of my cars. I guess I could always get the extension trays to make the TL like the TLX if I needed, but it looks like from your video I don't need to do that.
Glad I could help. Let me know how it works out!
Can you specify the scope model you bought ?
That's the Lumix Killer Instinct. I can read it better than the Overwatch that was originally on it.
Thank you for the video 🔥
You are welcome - hope it helps
Still use Jack Stands and save you're own life.
I put jack a jack stand under each side of the quick jack just to be on the safe side. You can spot them in other videos. Thanks for the input.
ruclips.net/user/shortswbT4YjKLWV8?si=4QmWsbWXPdIiiuQg
Hell yeah, great tip some things people just don’t think about
Thanks - a buddy of mine turned me on to this at one of the local car shows. He has a '65 GTO with a thumpy cam in it. Only got about 12 PSI off the manifold. It got a lot better once he added the canister.
you do nice work , looking at the knob left on the column to me is like sand in the bathing suit
Thanks very much - I feel the same about those little details. They're picky things, but they matter for the look of the car.
JB weld good for just about anything !!!
I know, right? That stuff is amazing!
That lot of work..? You can get billed column
It really wasn't that much work. Knocked it out in a day. Didn't cost much either.
I have the 7000TLX model and it lifts my 6000lb Yukon XL (Suburban basically) with no problems. I've had it about a year and I also use it on my mustang and the wife's Acadia. As long as you have the pads located well on the frame or on the pinch weld area (I always use the factory recommended lift points) and back it off onto the safety locks, it will be good to go. I've done tire rotations, fluid changes, brakes, and even the entire front suspension components (upper/lower control arms, axles, struts, tie rods) using this quickjack.
Thanks for the information. Sounds like you've gotten your money's worth out of it already.
The fore end is from a Browning A5. The Remington was more rounded and I think un checkered.
I wondered if that was the case. My 20 gauge Sportsman is checkered, but the 12 was the base model so as you say, the fore end was definitely replaced. Thanks for the info - I see that the fore end on my 20 gauge is rounded like you describe.
@@petefromhillcountry3268 I would say so based on my model 11.
I wonder if the trigger is from an A-5 as well. It didn't fit quite the same as the old one and I had to inlet the stock a bit to get things to fit.
not necessarily some of the model 11's came with various grades of stock from basic to deluxe checkered wood as well as plain metal guns to high engraving work with gold inlay
Yes I have the 2015 grizzly you have to put Lock Tite blue on tighten down good, problem solved 👍🤜🤛
Thanks - I did exactly that. Everything worked well on the Wisconsin hunt. No issues.
Which model gun is the replacement trigger from?
When I bought it, it was listed as a Model 11 trigger. However, I'm guessing that it might be from an Auto 5 because it protruded a little at the back of the magazine. That required me to inlet the stock.. Hope this helps.
How did you determine the positioning for the truck extensions
I took a measurement of the frame rails prior to purchase. Comparing that with the dimensions provided by the Quick Jack specs, I determined that I could lift the truck on the jack points if I placed the extensions at the furthest point on each end. Hope that helps.
@@petefromhillcountry3268 it went up nice and level so the weight was well distributed
I have a very early A 5 ,it also has the safety ahead of the trigger. I am guessing closer to 1911 mfg date.
Do you happen to know the year it was manufactured?
Jeezus. Point them at a wall to show cutoff at least. Complete shit review. These lights are garbage. Prove me wrong
Привет! Левша?
да!😄
It's common across most manufacturers from what I've seen. My Barnett XP370 had similar issue out of the box. I had to tighten most of the bolts.
Sucks that the quality control for so many manufacturers has deteriorated so much over the years. Barnett Makes a legit crossbow, I think. I've heard a lot of good things about them
Both of the issues I’ve had with my Mag 340 relate to the string. Since its claws damage the serving I don’t shoot it as much as I’d like, and on top of that Excalibur has shortened the replacement strings for the bow so much that I had to buy a string from someone else (60x Custom Strings) in order for my DrStirrup bumpers to still make contact. Since I’ve swapped to the same scope as your’s and you’ve obviously had great success with the Xbow, mind sharing your arrow/broadhead setup? Congratulations on your kills!
I had the same issue finding a bow string that would fit. My serving started to unravel just before hunting season and I couldn't get a new string in time. Had to get the old one serviced. I use 150 grain Bolt Cutters on the Excalibur Diablo (18") shafts. I added Lumenoks to them as well. I'm sure I'm not getting the 340 FPS with the heavier arrow, but they shoot pretty well. I have to tell you though, I've never had a shot farther than 40 yards. Where I hunt, the terrain is such that there isn't a shot opportunity that's any farther than that.
Exact thing happened to me. Tightned it up and perfection
I guess the problem isn't all that rare, given the posts I've seen on Facebook regarding this problem. I blame myself to some extent, because I think I should have gone over the bow more carefully before taking it out for testing. But there was a time when that sort of scrutiny wasn't necessary. Products tended to be 100% functional right out of the box in the past.
Thanks for the video on these. Been debating them for quite a few years as It's been tough to find people who have been using half ton trucks that show it as well as you did. I've looked for years and struggled so thank you for the great video showing this 👍 They're a great option for lower ceilings and also maximizing the room. Even doing as much stuff as I do to my vehicles, I'm not using a lift even every month. Hard to justify taking up the space when you have these as an option
Yes, those are the same reasons I got it. My shop space is limited and it's really nice to be able to get them out of the way when they're mot in use. Glad this was helpful!
I have the same Micro Mag 340 Overwatch. & 6 other Excalibur's lol. My hands down favorites, is my Bulldog 400, & Matrix 380. But I do like the Micro Mag 340 Overwatch & I love the Tact 100 scope that comes with it. I liked the Tact 100 so much, that I outfited 3 more of my Excalibur's with the Tact-100 scope. I also just bought a Excalibur Overwatch 100 scope, for another one of my Excalibur's, which has the same reticle as the Tact-100 just more magnification & Better glass.
It came around nicely once I found out that the scope rail was loose. Tagged out this year.🙂
Thank you , great information.
No problem - glad it helped
I think the manual says to have the yellow label ends of the jacks on the engine end. It works either way, but the heavier end of the car should be over the end with jack structure under it as it lifts. At least, that's what I heard in another video. Nice Chevy!
I think you're right on that. In this first video, I had them flipped around. As you say, it still works, but it's better to have it the other way around. I did a video of my truck with it positioned correctly.
Your car lowers significantly quicker than mine. What air pressure is in your cylinders? My jacks take a LONG time to lower.
I love the convenience of it... but mr personally I'd would still use my good old jack stands. However Quick Jack for the win 👍🏾
Sure - I still use mine for some things as well.
Not a chance I’m getting under there without 4 jackstands in place as an added safety measure.
You and me both. I always put jack stands under just in case. No sense tempting fate, right?
Keep your purses near by.
I have the same crossbow. You might want to try a different broadhead. I use Magnus Black Hornet ser razor. They fly great.
Gm screwed everyone with the wax undercoating
I've heard that moisture can get behind the rust and start rusting the frame. Sometimes it's not noticeable. Do you have experience with this? If so, please share it - I'm sure others would like to hear more.
@petefromhillcountry3268 it's to new but gm fucked me with this shit you get near it you wear it
Yeas, it leaves residue on the truck extensions when I let the Sierra back down. Do you know if there is a replacement product that can put back on to cover up exposed areas?
@petefromhillcountry3268 I think we are stuck with it unfortunately
Ya gotta shoot from a SOLID rest and keep the bow level at all times. Sight DEAD ON at 20 yards with the turrets only. Turn the speed dial to the approximate speed of the bow. Using the 40 yard reticle shoot 1 arrow at 40 yards from a SOLID rest. If the arrow hits where you aimed, the scope is calibrated for your arrow speed, you’re done. If it DOESN’T hit where it’s aimed, put the bow in a SOLID rest uncocked, and WITHOUT moving the bow hold the 40 yard reticle on the target where you were aiming at 40 yards and adjust the speed dial up or down till the 40 yard reticle covers the arrow you just shot at 40 yards. DONE
I used my Lead Sled for a rest and it worked nicely for that. There was a problem with the bow itself that I found after posting the video. The screws holding the scope rail were a little loose, allowing the rail to shift a little. That was causing the trouble. I went through the whole bow and made sure everything was tight and it was fine after that. I'll be posting a follow-up now that I'm back from my hunt.
Excalibur scopes are so super simple to sight in. The main crosshair should be at 20 yards …. So sight DEAD ON with the turrets only. Adjust your speed ring to the speed you think the bow will be shooting with your arrows that you will be using. Move to 40 yards and fire 1 arrow from a solid rest with the 40 yard reticle. If the arrow hits where it’s aimed, you’re done. If it doesn’t, keep the crossbow in a solid rest, and look through the scope with the 40 yard reticle holding on the target where you were aiming. WITHOUT moving the crossbow, adjust the speed ring up or down till the 40 yard reticle covers the arrow you just shot at 40 yards. You’re done.
Mine is working fine. Tagged out this year .
The only problem is,once you pay for it you could have had a billion services from dealership.
I think a billion might be a bit of a stretch. Just as an example, I can do a radiator flush for the cost of the fluid. My dealership charges $389 for installing front brake pads. I can buy a set of ceramic pads for around $50 and install them myself. That's over $300 in savings in just one example. I have that service coming up soon, and I plan on doing it myself. With the Quick Jack, it'll be easy.
I trust myself 200% more than a shop. It's not just about money.
I agree - very good point. I once had an oil change at one of those quickie places and the tech broke the handle off my dip stick. I overheard the him telling the manager that Fords were pieces of sh*t, which is why it broke. What a Richard Cranium.
junk scope....to hi...to low...to hi...to lo
Sorry to hear you had trouble with yours. Mine has zeroed in pretty well.