REBUILD Your Motorcraft/Autolite 2100/2150 Carburetor!
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2023
- STOP BUYING CHEAP CHINESE KNOCK-OFF CARBURATORS! Please for the sake of all that is good and pure, STOP. if you need a fast, cheap, carb for your beater, order a rebuild kit and go snag a $10 junk carb from your local junkyard. these Motorcraft / Autolite 2100 and 2150 carbs are everywhere! plus, modern American made rebuild kits are suited for modern ethenol fuels. While this video does a HORRIBLE job at step-by-step instructions, I hope it will give you the confidence to attack your carb rebuild! if all else fails, I hope you find it entertaining. as always, because I usually provide all the wrong information, feel free to correct me in the comments... but above all, get out there, start wrenching, make memories, and do stuff before it's too late!
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I have this exact same carburetor on my 1973 ford f250 highboy with a 360! Thanks for the video It has a lot of helpful information.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! If you haven't already, please subscribe, it really helps us out. There's also plenty of 70's ford truck videos, also we're building a ford 360
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You're very welcome and I really appreciate you watching and commenting! Please subscribe to the channel if you haven't already, it really helps
i need rebuilt my ford truck carburetor its an old truck 87 thank you for you ilustration muchas grasias my friend from honduras.
Glad to help
Tks sir I got it corrected! Thinking I have to clean my carburetor cause still no start and motor is kinda dragging when starting
Are you getting enough fuel to the carb?
That I know of yes I took hose off and shooting pretty good
First off thanks for making this video. About to clean mine as well!! Question is on the Diaphram the 4 bolts on what hole is the linkage rod set on??? Hope u understand what im saying.
I know exactly what your asking, I might have addressed it in the video but not well. It should be second from the top. These hole options are actually for different climate applications. I believe the very top is for extreme heat climates and the bottom is for Arctic conditions.
Also start around 43 minute mark. I kinda talk about them. Anyhow, Second from the top is what you're looking for unless you're in Iraq or Antarctica
1979 Jeep Wagoneer AMC 360 with a 2 barrel 2150. I've rebuilt it twice and still suffer from Vapor Lock. Many Mechanics pull the whole "Ahh, those Jeeps are hard to work on", so I'm learning on my own. Any tips?
I'm pretty familiar with this problem and I do not believe your 2150 is the culprit. I am convinced that it's the slightly excessive engine bay temps and ethanol in fuel. The reason why is that 360 is crammed in there and I've seen timed electric cooling fans installed (which helps a lot), high flow (flow-kooler) water pumps DEI heat wrap, etc..... attempt to fix heat soak. I would try and find some non ethanol fuel and go from there but probably install some electrical cooling fans to run a few minutes after you shut the key off
My friend bought David Tracy's (Jalopnik) wagoneer and restored it. He struggles with this same issue. Also, is your OEM fan shroud still intact?
@route40rust Thank you Sir for the prompt reply. I still have the fan shroud and the Temps stay fairly cool with a recent radiator flush. I'm running a stock water pump. I was thinking a polyurethane fuel tank with a electric fuel pump w check valve and run it concurrent with my mechanical fuel pump. I already sleeved the fuel lines and used high temp paint on my original manifold. Two questions. 1) Cast Iron Manifold is better than say an Aluminum Edlebrock? 2) Would Electric Fans drain the Alternator? I've tried Non Ethanol fuel. I almost filled up the tank and she drove a bit further and died right on the freeway ramp. I remember pouring water on the lines and mechanical fuel pump and she started up before AAA came to tow me. It's frustrating man. My wife and I love this truck so much and by the way is our daily driver that breaks down daily. Even with Starting Fluid and letting it cool, I'm on my third battery in two years. No LS swap for me, I love original stock 4x4s.
So I have a 78cj7, with the same carb on a 304. I just noticed that I have gas leaking from the accelerator pump and the power valve, is this the same issue you were having? Im going to rebuild it this weekend and I’ve watched your video a couple times now. 😅 Thank you!
The accelerator pump gasket and diaphragm is most likely your culprit for external leaks. The power valve will leak internally and is much less likely. With these carbs the key is getting the right kit! Does your carb still have its ID tag?
@@route40rust It doesn’t, I’m 💯 taking your advice in taking it off, tearing it down and verify everything. I kinda figured it might be those gaskets. Thank you very much for your video and reaching out. 👍🍻