Tip on taking out the seal. On a lot of the videos I notice they beat on the thing from 5 directions and kind of crush it all down and pry it out. But really if you just knock in one side a little with a large flat head screw driver so there is something to grab with a pair of pliers you can just pull it straight out pretty easy.
Wish I saw this comment before I just pulled the seal off. Dammit. He's right. I can't get to the %^&*(ing retaining screw w/o pulling the valve cover. :-( Seal is different also...it's smaller
Before, BEFORE, you attempt to do this, make damn sure your vehicle is not 2007 or newer because you MUST remove the valve cover to replace the solenoid on those years as the retaining screw is not accessible without removing the valve cover. If you try to use this method on those years of vehicles, you WILL destroy the grommet AND then you will HAVE to take the valve cover off anyhow. Plus, since the designs are different, you might even damage the valve cover trying to knock out the grommet.
Thank you for posting the video. At one time I would have used a long pair of vise grips to grab on the corner of the seal with a small brass hammer to get it out. When installing the new seal use a socket to get the seal installed perfectly without damaging it. Great video, thanks again.
I’m about to dive into the bank 1 solenoid and looked up videos to brush up on what I need to know. I saw this video and am I glad I checked it out! My stepson did the bank 2 side for me and went the valve cover off route. After that pain he wasn’t interested in doing bank 2. I hope this works as planned, because I’ll have it done in 4-5 hours less than he did! I’ll come back with results. Oz- 2005 Expy, EB 5.4 3v
So I just completed the work. Actually, quite a bit ago. Took maybe one hour including getting all the tools needed together. I read through a lot of the comments and I’m glad I did. Saw where one unfortunate person lost the bit inside the valve cover. I insured against this by electrical taping the bit in, plus the extension I used on my driver handle. This cheat was DEFINITELY worth the effort in my case. Saved at least 4-5 hours of work for me. If you’re doing this job on a second generation 5.4, DO IT THIS WAY!
Before thinking that this video will help you, make sure your valve seal is the exact same. The variant I have on my 5.4L 3v doesn't have the tabs and the valve cover doesn't have the same size opening, so I can't fit the torx driver along the side of the solenoid. The valve cover does need to come off in some cases.
I got a 2007 harley davison edition supercharged. And my oil pressure drop and my engine died im getting the p0012 you think this will fix the problem replacing this valves?
Correct me if Im wrong but I think this method only works on 2004 maybe 2005 too. The newer ones have a smaller seal and require the valve cover to come off.
Hard to say, i did hear the later models were easier to remove the valve covers but your saying it was still a pain in the ass. That passenger side is a bitch
HI, I just had both mine replaced. 1 was brand new but that ring was not with the solenoid. I see you have a new cover. Where can you buy that filter cover that goes into the valve cover? TIA. Im stoked that a friend has a friend that knew what was wrong. WOW it runs good now.
I'm curious as to what symptoms lead to the solenoid needing to be replaced? I did a complete timing job on my 2005 Expy 2 years ago following FordTechMakuloco's video as well as some tips from you. Last week my truck stalled after exiting the freeway. It had a hard time starting and threw several codes. Once I got it started it ran EXTREMELY rough. I parked it for a week and now it SEEMS fine. I'm going to check a few things but think it MIGHT be the solenoid. Thanks for the videos. I've also been able to make several repairs on my Arctic Cat side by side watching your videos.
I have 4.6L 3v, this video gave me hope that I didn't have to fight with the valve cover turns out I had to sadly (be careful putting the cover on that's how I broke mine ;)
Did you replace the gasket in the cover ? I have a 06 mustang gt and just changed the solenoid thinking it was leaking from that turns out it’s from the gasket and I don’t want to take the whole cover back off , I wanted to know if I can just pry it off and replace it with out taking the whole cover off
@@ojanimartinez been awhile, but you can pry the gasket off it's just a bitch to reach the bolt inside is all. Otherwise valve cover is all you'd need off and that's just 10 bolts and some connectors so worst case is you take that off which isn't a bad idea since you'd get a good look on the condition on the inside of the motor
Make you to check the old solenoids for missing pieces of screen. Otherwise you'll end up removing the valve covers any way. Also pull up o. The solenoids while unscrewing the T27 "captured" bolt. I've seen them come out. The you will be pulling front timing cover off to look for a bolt. Never mind just pull the valve covers and do the job correctly
@@truckboattruck328 did you pull the valve covers off or reach through the hole after you pulled the seals? I have a 2005 and would rather not pull the covers this weekend. Thanks in advance!
I have a 2008 with a 5.4 triton. Any advice on how to remove that solenoid through the smaller hole? I've been trying for a while to figure out how to remover the valve cover and can't reach all the way back to find anything. Terrible design. I used to deliver parts to mechanics in my area. When I told them my problem every last one said they refuse to work on 5.4 tritons. Even thought of cutting a hole out of top of cover and after replacing the solenoid, JB weld the cover piece back on. Any friendly advice? Thank you.
Your model of expedition needs to remove the cover. You can't use the port to remove the screw sorry it sucks. After 2006 models ford Change the design of the cover. Don't try anything else other than removing the cover or you'll be in more trouble if you drop anything inside the engine..
Have a 2008 f150 limited AWD. Tried this and the screw holding the solenoid fell into the engine. Plus the solenoid was too big to come out thru the solenoid hole. You have to remive the valve cover.
thats all well and good but it is always best to remove the cover so u can inspect the engine to check for other problems most of the time when you try and short cut u end up messing up
Hey lol same thing with my truck code keeps coming back after I already changed the camshaft sensor I’m going to replace vct right now did you have to change your phasers or anything else ?
Doesn’t even state which year this is. Reason I say so is apparently late 07 or starting 08 and newer valve cover has to be removed due to smaller opening that solenoid itself does not fit through.
MY 2010 EXPEDITION 5.4 3V HAS A DIFFERENT VCT GASKET ... ITS A ROUND CIRCLE AND THE VCT MOUNT BOLT DOESNT FIT THE HOLE, SO VALVE COVER HAS TO BE REMOVED...
that’s what my truck is doing right now, my engine light came on the other day and it shakes if i’m idling and sometimes stalls, especially if i go in reverse it’ll shake and want to stall
If I remember correctly you can. There was a TSB on the 3.5 for the solenoids and we did them this way. Try using pb blaster or wd40 around the seal before you try to pop it out, it will make it easier.
i followed the instructions in the video but the hole in the valve cover was smaller than that shown in the video. the old VVT would not come out forcing the removal of the valve cover. what should have been made known up front is that there are 2 different sizes of holes in the valve cover. after i opened the replacement VVT i discovered there are 2 different size gaskets also.
i have an 05 expedition with the p0022 code. i replaced the vct solenoid thats on the drivers side because it said bank 2 on the code machine. after replacing it i am still getting the code. could it be that its the wrong side or what could it be?
@@TestDontguess True, yeah I'm looking at buying an 07 expedition xlt. Just not sure if that model they changed it or not. Bank A solenoid is already gone bad.
WARNING!! Read comments before doing this. Does not work on all years of the 5.4L. Only the older ones prior to ‘07. Would have been nice to have that tidbit before tearing it all apart and not having all the parts or time I needed………
I forgot to come back. Now I am. So, bank 1 was easy as described here. Less than an hour total, including tool wrangling. (I had to create a tool long enough). Now, I’m back to bank 2. Seal failed and the part seems to have failed as well. May have been the install wasn’t proper. Either way, I’ve gotta hit it in the morning and will once again use this method. Thanks for this tip. It’s magic!
Thank you. I suspect one of my VCT solenoids is beginning to really stick. Truck hesitates and "Chugs" or "stutters" at the timing advancement RPMs, and recently Im guessing one of them straight up stuck when I rapidly slowed down and very difficult to keep the truck running but still managed at highway speed. Oil pressure sudden dip to zero and back to normal. Sounds like clogged or failing solenoid to my extremely amateur understanding. Was kind of dreading this as I thought I had to do the whole timing job which I probably will still do but this will get me back on the road for basically free so thanks again! If anyone knows about the chugging or has had that send me a msg plz!
Sounds like phasers tbh, but sometimes after phasers it may need a solenoid or two. Depending on miles on vehicle, check the tension of the chain. Also check the gasket on the backside of the tensioners, these gaskets tend to blow out over time and causes loss in oil pressure and will not keep proper tension on the timing chain. Timing failure will follow shortly after if so (jump time, broken guide/ tensioner arm, etc.)
Start with the vcts and see. Worst case you still need a timing job..but honestly you'd probably replace the vcts anyway..hell I'd replace roller followers as well ..WHy not once you open it up
I just got mine and will be installing tomorrow...I measured the Solenoids with the screw attached and got 1 1/2 inch across. I measured the seals at 1 3/4 inches across...I am no rocket scientist but I don't think I have to remove the valve covers by my measurements, right? EVERYONE I talk to says I have to remove the valve covers on a 2010 F150 Platinum 5.4.....PLEASE give me your thoughts on this. GREAT VIDEO, BTW, THANK YOU!
Hi jerry,I have the same problem with my vvt solenoid on my 2010 Ford F-150 5.4,did you ever change yours without removal of valve cover?thanks Eddie T
They - Ford - changed to a smaller opening in '07... no room to get a Torx T wrench in them .. '06 and older only ones this works on! Make sure a newer block hasn't been put in at some point!
Just a heads up for anyone seeing this in 2024. I have a 2005 5.4 but my valve covers are not like these. I have the smaller VCT solenoid openings on my valve cover. Similar to a 2008 model. I have no idea why. Going into forums and Facebook groups I've seen a lot of posts with people saying the same thing. Some engines had different valve covers for some reason. If you have the smaller VCT opening with the recessed seal, this method wont work, even on some of the earlier models. The seal here in this video has a lip hanging over to work a screwdriver under. Mine didn't and was impossible to remove the vct solenoid. Unfortunately I had to pull the valve covers to fix it. So jusr make sure even on the earlier years you have the same openings like the ones in this video. All the post 2007 are small. But some 04-07 are too.
Awesome video, however ford redesigned the valve covers on the 2010.5 and you can no longer access the VCT screw without removing the entire cover. Ford sucks! 😂
ITS AMAZING HOW ALL THESE VIDEOS ON VCT REMOVAL ONLY WANT TO SHOW YOU THE PASSENGER SIDE BECAUSE ITS THE EASY SIDE. WHY NOT SHOW THE ENTIRE REMOVAL/ INSTALLATION ON THE DRIVER SIDE? BECAUSE THERE'S A PAIN IN THE ASS BRACKET AND ITS EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO EVEN LOCATE THE BOTTOM BOLT OR REACH IT TO GET IT OUT OF YOUR WAY.SHOW THE WHOLE SHABANG OR AT LEAST BE HONEST WITH THE VIEWERS HOW TOUGH IT IS ON THE DRIVER SIDE. DON'T LEAD THEM DOWN A PATH IF THERE'S A CLIFF.
Why do people let their engines get so dirty. When you wash your truck, pop the hood spray your engine down. A little engine cleaner every once in a while.
In a world where people eat TIDE PODS... do you really think they can clean an engine properly without possibly destroying parts inside? Especially in today's electronic-stuffed cars? You need to cover intakes, alternators, etc. Even then it's tricky. A car runs in DIRT... sure they get dirty, but are designed to handle it. Unlike a boat.. they run in WATER. That's why they are typically very clean.
@@TestDontguess everytime I ask them about the VVT SOLENOID, or VCT SOLENOID, autozone act like they don't no what it is.. AM I NOT WORDING IT RIGHT OR SOMETHING? AMY TRUCK HAD THIS PROBLEM B4 and Used to tremble really badd.,, And a shop just did a little work on it just because it popped up during my emissions test and now it is back trembling... So I will be taken it to a different shop to get it done.
KOLD.KAOZ.KOYOTE sorry I’m late to the game here. Sounds like it’s the actual associate at Auto Zone that’s a little dense. I’ve not had problems there on that part before. I do like my little small town O’Reillys because even the young ladies working in there know their stuff. Someone raised em right!
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition 4.6 l with no check engine lights no knocking no hesitation no misfires. It starts up but slowly bogs out as if it's running out of gas I change the fuel pump and filter check alternator battery and ignition. I was told that it could be my timing belt or anything connected can you help?
Tip on taking out the seal. On a lot of the videos I notice they beat on the thing from 5 directions and kind of crush it all down and pry it out. But really if you just knock in one side a little with a large flat head screw driver so there is something to grab with a pair of pliers you can just pull it straight out pretty easy.
This will work on 2004-2006 engines. They changed the valve cover in the 2007-2010 5.4 3V. You must pull the valve cover in later model years.
Very true.
Aww so mean 😑
This worked in my 2010 expedition
Crap
Wish I saw this comment before I just pulled the seal off. Dammit. He's right. I can't get to the %^&*(ing retaining screw w/o pulling the valve cover. :-( Seal is different also...it's smaller
Before, BEFORE, you attempt to do this, make damn sure your vehicle is not 2007 or newer because you MUST remove the valve cover to replace the solenoid on those years as the retaining screw is not accessible without removing the valve cover. If you try to use this method on those years of vehicles, you WILL destroy the grommet AND then you will HAVE to take the valve cover off anyhow. Plus, since the designs are different, you might even damage the valve cover trying to knock out the grommet.
Wow!!!!.... REALLY WISH THAT WAS MENTIONED IN THE VIDEO!!!!! Thanks for the heads up... but too late...
Please consider updating this video...
Bro thanks I was literally just about to do this trick on my 2010 f250 thanks man.
happy i saw this after I destroyed to seal and tried to unscrew it. Didn't damage the cover at all though just have to take it off now.
man, I wish I would have read this first. I was just going to come on here and warn people. Now I had to order new gaskets and valve cover gaskets.
Thank you for posting the video. At one time I would have used a long pair of vise grips to grab on the corner
of the seal with a small brass hammer to get it out. When installing the new seal use a socket to get the seal
installed perfectly without damaging it. Great video, thanks again.
Thank you I was going to pull the cover u just saved me two or 3 hours of my life
What was the tool u used to lose the bolt johnny arnette?
@@darelalejandro7696 T27 Torx bit
Great technique in removing the seal w/o destroying the valve cover mating surfaces - it was like watching a surgeon at work.
I fought with mine for a long time.. Then I had a vision.. I used a wood screw, and screwed it into the rubber then I pried it right out! Super easy!
That’s genius
Big homie saves the day n earns a subscribe. God bless you
I’m about to dive into the bank 1 solenoid and looked up videos to brush up on what I need to know. I saw this video and am I glad I checked it out! My stepson did the bank 2 side for me and went the valve cover off route. After that pain he wasn’t interested in doing bank 2. I hope this works as planned, because I’ll have it done in 4-5 hours less than he did! I’ll come back with results.
Oz-
2005 Expy, EB 5.4 3v
So I just completed the work. Actually, quite a bit ago. Took maybe one hour including getting all the tools needed together. I read through a lot of the comments and I’m glad I did. Saw where one unfortunate person lost the bit inside the valve cover. I insured against this by electrical taping the bit in, plus the extension I used on my driver handle. This cheat was DEFINITELY worth the effort in my case. Saved at least 4-5 hours of work for me. If you’re doing this job on a second generation 5.4, DO IT THIS WAY!
Good job seriously on the whole thing not too wordy or over selling just rite to it thank you
Before thinking that this video will help you, make sure your valve seal is the exact same. The variant I have on my 5.4L 3v doesn't have the tabs and the valve cover doesn't have the same size opening, so I can't fit the torx driver along the side of the solenoid. The valve cover does need to come off in some cases.
Oh yes it’s unfortunate you got stuck with the not so friendly style
Please Clarify! For a 2008 F150, this DOES NOT WORK!. You have to take the valve covers off. It is a chore, but can be done.....
Same with an 07 Expedition. Valve cover must be removed.
I have a 2008 Ford 5.4 engine and fixing to replace passenger side VCT SOLENOID but I been told I haft to remove valve cover. Is it true??
I got a 2007 harley davison edition supercharged. And my oil pressure drop and my engine died im getting the p0012 you think this will fix the problem replacing this valves?
Correct me if Im wrong but I think this method only works on 2004 maybe 2005 too. The newer ones have a smaller seal and require the valve cover to come off.
Mine is a 2006
I wonder when the cut off year is for sure 2008 I did had a smaller seal fun times pulling the valve covers lol. Cheers Jerry
Hard to say, i did hear the later models were easier to remove the valve covers but your saying it was still a pain in the ass. That passenger side is a bitch
The 09-10 w/ the 5.4L definitely have more room under the hood. 04-08 are worse just in my opinion of course which really means nothing haha
@@1990lumina yep... smaller covers... less bolts
Would taking the oil spout off valve cover given another angle to remove grommet?
I wish they didn't make the holes smaller when they changed the design. The newer ones require removing the valve cover.
HI, I just had both mine replaced. 1 was brand new but that ring was not with the solenoid. I see you have a new cover. Where can you buy that filter cover that goes into the valve cover? TIA. Im stoked that a friend has a friend that knew what was wrong. WOW it runs good now.
I'm curious as to what symptoms lead to the solenoid needing to be replaced? I did a complete timing job on my 2005 Expy 2 years ago following FordTechMakuloco's video as well as some tips from you. Last week my truck stalled after exiting the freeway. It had a hard time starting and threw several codes. Once I got it started it ran EXTREMELY rough. I parked it for a week and now it SEEMS fine. I'm going to check a few things but think it MIGHT be the solenoid. Thanks for the videos. I've also been able to make several repairs on my Arctic Cat side by side watching your videos.
How do you know which one to replace
I have a 2010 Ford F-150 5.4 and there is no clearance between the valve cover hole and solinoid?what the hell?
the part you out put in the description would it fit for a 2000 Ford Truck Expedition 4WD 5.4L FI SOHC 8cyl.
I have 4.6L 3v, this video gave me hope that I didn't have to fight with the valve cover turns out I had to sadly (be careful putting the cover on that's how I broke mine ;)
Did you replace the gasket in the cover ? I have a 06 mustang gt and just changed the solenoid thinking it was leaking from that turns out it’s from the gasket and I don’t want to take the whole cover back off , I wanted to know if I can just pry it off and replace it with out taking the whole cover off
@@ojanimartinez been awhile, but you can pry the gasket off it's just a bitch to reach the bolt inside is all. Otherwise valve cover is all you'd need off and that's just 10 bolts and some connectors so worst case is you take that off which isn't a bad idea since you'd get a good look on the condition on the inside of the motor
Make you to check the old solenoids for missing pieces of screen. Otherwise you'll end up removing the valve covers any way. Also pull up o. The solenoids while unscrewing the T27 "captured" bolt. I've seen them come out. The you will be pulling front timing cover off to look for a bolt. Never mind just pull the valve covers and do the job correctly
Mine was a T25 on a 2005 F150 5.4
@@truckboattruck328 did you pull the valve covers off or reach through the hole after you pulled the seals? I have a 2005 and would rather not pull the covers this weekend. Thanks in advance!
@@hewhohoosteen on my 2005 5.4 I did not have to remove the entire valve cover. Only the plug
@@truckboattruck328 Awesome! Thanks for replying!
I have an 08 F150 with a 5.4 and my seal does not look like that. Its a smaller metal seal, looks like a freeze plug. How do you remove those?
I'm having the same issue,mine is a 09 let me know what you ended up doing
I have a 2008 with a 5.4 triton. Any advice on how to remove that solenoid through the smaller hole? I've been trying for a while to figure out how to remover the valve cover and can't reach all the way back to find anything. Terrible design. I used to deliver parts to mechanics in my area. When I told them my problem every last one said they refuse to work on 5.4 tritons. Even thought of cutting a hole out of top of cover and after replacing the solenoid, JB weld the cover piece back on. Any friendly advice? Thank you.
Your model of expedition needs to remove the cover. You can't use the port to remove the screw sorry it sucks. After 2006 models ford Change the design of the cover. Don't try anything else other than removing the cover or you'll be in more trouble if you drop anything inside the engine..
Why does it always seem like mine are bent? My torx screwdriver will never fit in it. It fights the housing of the vvt...
Hey 1 quick question my truck idles the rpm goes up and down idles then turns off randomly its the solenoids right plzzzzzzz answer
Change both sides bruh driver side and passenger
What year is this truck cause 08 and newer you have to remove the valve covers
What year truck is that you're working on ?
Have a 2008 f150 limited AWD. Tried this and the screw holding the solenoid fell into the engine. Plus the solenoid was too big to come out thru the solenoid hole. You have to remive the valve cover.
This video is a life saver !!!!
thats all well and good but it is always best to remove the cover so u can inspect the engine to check for other problems most of the time when you try and short cut u end up messing up
how do you put the gasket back with out damaging it???
I change my bank 2 solenoid and cam sensor and it’s calling for p0345 so should I replace bank 1 vct and cam sensor now
Hey lol same thing with my truck code keeps coming back after I already changed the camshaft sensor I’m going to replace vct right now did you have to change your phasers or anything else ?
Question do I have to fill New Selenoid with Oil before Screw inn ? Bout to do Mine One od these days 04
Thanks the job took about 20 minutes. My mechanic told me $400.
what year are you working on? ,,,i've been told on 2010 models you can't go thru the hole.
Mine is a 2006
Yeah I have 2008 can’t do it without removing covers sucks
How do you know when it is time to replace
when your car has trouble idling, going slow, or a check engine light with stalls and shaking
Doesn’t even state which year this is. Reason I say so is apparently late 07 or starting 08 and newer valve cover has to be removed due to smaller opening that solenoid itself does not fit through.
Got to removed valve cover on my Ford Expedition 2010 Limited
Is this seal causing leaks for others I believe I have found a issue with mine leakingV
MY 2010 EXPEDITION 5.4 3V HAS A DIFFERENT VCT GASKET ... ITS A ROUND CIRCLE AND THE VCT MOUNT BOLT DOESNT FIT THE HOLE, SO VALVE COVER HAS TO BE REMOVED...
Hey 1 question does that cause your truck to stall alot otlr randomly turn off if not pressing the gas ???????
that’s what my truck is doing right now, my engine light came on the other day and it shakes if i’m idling and sometimes stalls, especially if i go in reverse it’ll shake and want to stall
The cap screw is not always a 25 mm torxs bit they can be 10 mm bolt
Do you know if I would be able to do this on my 09 ford taurus 3.5 engine.i haven't had any luck finfing information on it.
If I remember correctly you can. There was a TSB on the 3.5 for the solenoids and we did them this way. Try using pb blaster or wd40 around the seal before you try to pop it out, it will make it easier.
Hi got. ? What size is the Torx and where did U get and how long does it need to be
He said T27..
Those keys are about 8" long
I must check if i can do same with my Jaguar X type vvt valve.
Dumb question, but it there another one on the opposite side of the motor?
Yes there is
i followed the instructions in the video but the hole in the valve cover was smaller than that shown in the video. the old VVT would not come out forcing the removal of the valve cover. what should have been made known up front is that there are 2 different sizes of holes in the valve cover. after i opened the replacement VVT i discovered there are 2 different size gaskets also.
What year truck? I did mine yesterday and they were both identical. Mine is a 2005.
same too small 08 f150
Vct not vvc
07 and up has revised solenoids and valve covers.
Mine has a small seal.. I believe someone swapped the engine with a newer one.
i have an 05 expedition with the p0022 code. i replaced the vct solenoid thats on the drivers side because it said bank 2 on the code machine. after replacing it i am still getting the code. could it be that its the wrong side or what could it be?
What year models? i heard they change the vct size on the valve cover in 07. Don't know if its 100% true
They do change the size unsure of what year but mine is a 2006
@@TestDontguess True, yeah I'm looking at buying an 07 expedition xlt. Just not sure if that model they changed it or not. Bank A solenoid is already gone bad.
I have a 2010 Ford F-150 and I do not have much clearance to get the torx head in between the hole and solinoid
What year was this truck?
It is a 2006
Whats the number or size of the allen wrench help
I'd like to shake your hand, you saved me soooooo much grief
If I accidentally turn the motor over wouldn’t matter if I want to stick that back in the motor decision on
WARNING!!
Read comments before doing this. Does not work on all years of the 5.4L. Only the older ones prior to ‘07.
Would have been nice to have that tidbit before tearing it all apart and not having all the parts or time I needed………
Is there a solenoid on each side or just the pass side?
Jim Gosselin both sides
both sides bank 2 will be way easier cause theres no coolant hoses in the way
I forgot to come back. Now I am. So, bank 1 was easy as described here. Less than an hour total, including tool wrangling. (I had to create a tool long enough).
Now, I’m back to bank 2. Seal failed and the part seems to have failed as well. May have been the install wasn’t proper. Either way, I’ve gotta hit it in the morning and will once again use this method.
Thanks for this tip. It’s magic!
thanks for making this video!! great channel!
Thank you. I suspect one of my VCT solenoids is beginning to really stick. Truck hesitates and "Chugs" or "stutters" at the timing advancement RPMs, and recently Im guessing one of them straight up stuck when I rapidly slowed down and very difficult to keep the truck running but still managed at highway speed. Oil pressure sudden dip to zero and back to normal. Sounds like clogged or failing solenoid to my extremely amateur understanding. Was kind of dreading this as I thought I had to do the whole timing job which I probably will still do but this will get me back on the road for basically free so thanks again! If anyone knows about the chugging or has had that send me a msg plz!
Sounds like your ready to get the parts cannon out before actually doing some diagnostics to see what the issue really is
@@TestDontguess no codes but not sure what live data to look for. Maybe measure the output of the solenoids?
How're the spark plugs/coil packs?
Sounds like phasers tbh, but sometimes after phasers it may need a solenoid or two. Depending on miles on vehicle, check the tension of the chain. Also check the gasket on the backside of the tensioners, these gaskets tend to blow out over time and causes loss in oil pressure and will not keep proper tension on the timing chain. Timing failure will follow shortly after if so (jump time, broken guide/ tensioner arm, etc.)
Start with the vcts and see. Worst case you still need a timing job..but honestly you'd probably replace the vcts anyway..hell I'd replace roller followers as well ..WHy not once you open it up
well my covers have the small rubber plugs
Thanks for showing how the clip comes off the plug...
You can't figure it out?
I just got mine and will be installing tomorrow...I measured the Solenoids with the screw attached and got 1 1/2 inch across. I measured the seals at 1 3/4 inches across...I am no rocket scientist but I don't think I have to remove the valve covers by my measurements, right? EVERYONE I talk to says I have to remove the valve covers on a 2010 F150 Platinum 5.4.....PLEASE give me your thoughts on this.
GREAT VIDEO, BTW, THANK YOU!
that sucks,noway to go thru the seal opening like he did?
Hi jerry,I have the same problem with my vvt solenoid on my 2010 Ford F-150 5.4,did you ever change yours without removal of valve cover?thanks Eddie T
@@443red NOPE...I traded it in for a new Dodge. Lol
They - Ford - changed to a smaller opening in '07... no room to get a Torx T wrench in them .. '06 and older only ones this works on! Make sure a newer block hasn't been put in at some point!
Great video. Thanks!
Just a heads up for anyone seeing this in 2024. I have a 2005 5.4 but my valve covers are not like these. I have the smaller VCT solenoid openings on my valve cover. Similar to a 2008 model. I have no idea why. Going into forums and Facebook groups I've seen a lot of posts with people saying the same thing. Some engines had different valve covers for some reason. If you have the smaller VCT opening with the recessed seal, this method wont work, even on some of the earlier models. The seal here in this video has a lip hanging over to work a screwdriver under. Mine didn't and was impossible to remove the vct solenoid. Unfortunately I had to pull the valve covers to fix it. So jusr make sure even on the earlier years you have the same openings like the ones in this video. All the post 2007 are small. But some 04-07 are too.
Mine don't have that much room no way to get anything in there
That doesn’t work on all. Our 2005 f-150 5.4 3v valve cover doesn’t have those big of ports
Had to take splash shield from my truck to,For some reason I had to remove transmission dip stick,to remove valve cover.😭😭😭
He has two cut on the valve cover already . You can do it with out taking the valve cover off.
That’s only with the old 3v not the last gen 5.4
If you’re doing a complete timing job you have to remove the valve cover it would’ve been way easier to do it that way
Doesn’t work on 2008 f150
Awesome thank you
Thanks
Apparently I’m the only one up early besides you Jerry.
Trust me I wasn’t up early
Lucky..you had the big seal
I don't understand why he didn't tell people ahead of time that this only works up to 07
Help I used a t27 tip and it fell inside
Might try a magnet on a stick or one of those extendable type magnets...
Well u screwed take the cover off
thanks :)
Im back ! Deals are leaking more and more 4 years later
Great video!! Killed book time!!
Should be a simple bolt on sensor. Wth is the matter with the designers? Same crap on the other side
Everybody always does the easy one on bank 1
Awesome video, however ford redesigned the valve covers on the 2010.5 and you can no longer access the VCT screw without removing the entire cover. Ford sucks! 😂
ITS AMAZING HOW ALL THESE VIDEOS ON VCT REMOVAL ONLY WANT TO SHOW YOU THE PASSENGER SIDE BECAUSE ITS THE EASY SIDE. WHY NOT SHOW THE ENTIRE REMOVAL/ INSTALLATION ON THE DRIVER SIDE? BECAUSE THERE'S A PAIN IN THE ASS BRACKET AND ITS EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO EVEN LOCATE THE BOTTOM BOLT OR REACH IT TO GET IT OUT OF YOUR WAY.SHOW THE WHOLE SHABANG OR AT LEAST BE HONEST WITH THE VIEWERS HOW TOUGH IT IS ON THE DRIVER SIDE. DON'T LEAD THEM DOWN A PATH IF THERE'S A CLIFF.
Putting a screw in that hole has got to be the dumbest shit I’ve ever seen
Jesus DO NOT fumble the bolt. Holy shit
Your 710 cap is upside down.... might want to address that or your car may run backwards... Just sayin'. :)
Why do people let their engines get so dirty. When you wash your truck, pop the hood spray your engine down. A little engine cleaner every once in a while.
Why ? Do you suffer OCD ?
Yes 😂
In a world where people eat TIDE PODS... do you really think they can clean an engine properly without possibly destroying parts inside? Especially in today's electronic-stuffed cars? You need to cover intakes, alternators, etc. Even then it's tricky.
A car runs in DIRT... sure they get dirty, but are designed to handle it. Unlike a boat.. they run in WATER. That's why they are typically very clean.
@@billybobsowbreath1774 Apparently you've never owned a boat. LOL.
Man I’m so dumb I should replace my 2007 before closed the covers 🤦🏽♂️🔫
Autozone keep saying they don't no what part im talking about.
What part are you talking about ? The seal for the most part I think can only be reliably purchased from ford
@@TestDontguess everytime I ask them about the VVT SOLENOID, or VCT SOLENOID, autozone act like they don't no what it is..
AM I NOT WORDING IT RIGHT OR SOMETHING? AMY TRUCK HAD THIS PROBLEM B4 and Used to tremble really badd.,, And a shop just did a little work on it just because it popped up during my emissions test and now it is back trembling...
So I will be taken it to a different shop to get it done.
KOLD.KAOZ.KOYOTE sorry I’m late to the game here. Sounds like it’s the actual associate at Auto Zone that’s a little dense. I’ve not had problems there on that part before. I do like my little small town O’Reillys because even the young ladies working in there know their stuff. Someone raised em right!
@@michaelosborn2568 yea I think they are also lol... They hire people that no nothing about cars, only how to use the computer
Dude.. you are just destroying shit.. lol
What is destroyed?
Lol,
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition 4.6 l with no check engine lights no knocking no hesitation no misfires. It starts up but slowly bogs out as if it's running out of gas I change the fuel pump and filter check alternator battery and ignition. I was told that it could be my timing belt or anything connected can you help?