This video is so wrong, never use Dorman! Also this "easy" method only works on 2004-2007 early build models, 2007 late build to 2014 you MUST remove the valve cover. The vct seal was not installed even halfway it will pop and leak crazy amounts of oil. The startup noise after the repair is a blown timing chain tensioner which is the cause of his dieseling noise when the engine is hot and at low rpm's NOT the VCT solenoid.
I agree. Never use Dorman parts for this repair. Use Ford OEM so you don't lose parts in the engine. Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your channel!
@@mstchiefa7892 ..Right lmao! Seems every one is making a video theses days. Only problem is, it's either the wrong information 🚫 or in this case, not enough info☢ in regards to what year you can do this procedure on. So many DIY guys are just doing more damage to there vehicles by not watching FordTecMakuloco's in the first place.✅
I grew up around mechanics my father is a diesel and gas master mechanic my uncle's were shade tree mechanics.... I've been working on engines since I was six, started out on lawn mower engines then onto bigger ones, there are a lot of tricks to the trade that come along with experience, you do it long enough you'll figure them out... But outright this video is very informative for those DO IT YOURSELFERS,
I just did this same repair on my GFs 2005 Expedition yesterday. I bought the model without the catch. It is a very nerve racking repair (being my first time) given the screw could fall. I unscrewed the 27mm bolt, but I kept the screwdriver on the screw as I slowly pulled it out keeping the screw from sliding out. So far so good with the P0012 DTC. I would purchase a longer torx driver because the solenoid has to go in pretty deep. Not a repair I want to do any time soon. Thanks for the video man. It helped a lot.
The lord has blessed me today. I went to autozone to check the engine light on my moms 2005 f150. The code reader showed that the vvt solenoid was going out, along with showing replace the valve cover gaskets. So I thought I had to take off the valve covers to change the vvt. Turns out I have the early model, so this one is simple. I couldn’t afford a mechanic. I work full time at minnimum wage cause I’m not 21 yet to get my CDL. Anyway tomorrow is gonna be a good day🎉
Thank you SO much for this video. Getting ready to replace one on my brother's old 2005 Triton. It keeps stalling intermittently on him, and this was one of 2 codes (other being fuel sensor), and I've never done one of these before, so, I was nervous until I saw this video. Thanks again buddy!😊
I have a 2005 and was showing a P0012 code. Supposedly the VCT solenoid. Looked like an easy fix like the video, but for some reason my 05 had different valve covers with the much smaller vct holes. I couldn't do it this way. Valve covers had to come off. I've heard of other people on the forums and Facebook groups with the same issue on the earlier models like mine. It figures. Anyway, if you have the smaller holes with the recessed seal, not like this one with the lip on the seal, you cant do it this way. But good video otherwise for the people it'll work for. And of course only use OEM Ford vct solenoids.
OK, so this is a 2008. If you notice somebody Dremel out the side where the screw comes out because factory, they don’t have that little moon notch taken out of the valve cover. You can clearly see if somebody Dremel out the side to where you can actually have enough room to pull out the VCT that is why everybody says you have to take the valve cover off, but I literally got a Dremel and a vacuum And Dremel out a notch to where I had enough room to pull the solenoid out. So if you did not know, somebody already did that for you to make your job a lot easier because if you look at your porthole, that is not a factory notch, that is a custom notch which somebody did with a Dremel or some kind of tool, but it works.
You, as well as plenty of the comments, already mentioned not to use Dorman, so I won’t go there. Good video for those of us with older trucks (2005 here). Think I’ll be tackling a full timing job in the next month or two, so I might as well replace the VCT while I’m at it.
Any advice on how to remove one from an 08 with the smaller hole in the valve cover without taking off the valve cover? Mine is too much of a pain to get to. Thank you.
Try testing the solenoid before removing from engine. Put power to it and if it clicks, try a couple of times. It should loosen up and work. If not then you will need to replace. Worked on my end. Good luck 🤞
Suggestion: Why don't you change the title of the video to say up until mid 2007 models so that folks that don't read the comments or watch other vids with 2008 and newer models don't go ordering parts thinking they've got a quick diy job only to find they've got to pull the valve covers?
I’m pretty sure his is a 2008 but I combined above somebody used a Dremel and shaved out enough room to where you can pull the boat out actually a good idea and a little bit of time consuming because I just did that myself because if you look in his video, the notch that is not factory Somebody definitely did that by hand. And I am thinking the dude who made this video doesn’t even know and thought that it was like that from the factory.
Sir, so, the reason for replacement was because of noise generated from the original parts, how many miles were on those VCT Solenoids. and OEM Part are Control Solenoid x2 8L3Z-6M280-B-OEM and Valve Cover Seal Gaskets x2 3L3Z-6C35-AA Thank You.
I didn't mention the 2002 Ford F-150 pickup has a 5.4 L motor in it but it does not have a VCT solenoid mounted in the valve covers do all 5.4 l in 2002 have BCT solenoid or not
My passenger side doesnt have the tab cutout. I cant get the sensor out because the screw and tab wont fit through it. Took a mic to it and it is fatter in circumference than the new sensor. Do i have to remove the valve cover?? Hate ford...
2006 Lariat doesnt seem to have that removable seal. Means I have to unbolt a dozen things, remove the valve cover, change it and put the engine back together..... Thanks A LOT Ford!
Do anyone know how to take the torque screw off when the solenoid is centered in the middle w/out taking the intake covers off? The long torque tool seems to go sideways when reached the torque screw. Thanks if anyone knows how 👊
Hi Aaron, everything I have read says at minimum is 5W-20 semi synthetic or full synthetic. The reason is that the oil needs to be so light is to make its way up into the VVT and Cam Phasers to keep them working right ie. advancing and retarding. Thicker oil does not allow that to happen. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment!
I have a 2002 Ford F-150 King Ranch Edition pickup and I believe the VCT solenoid is bad but it's not in the valve cover where is it can anybody tell me is it under the valve cover
07 5.4 the solenoid won't fit through the hole. The videos make it look easy bc they have the larger hole in valve cover. Has anyone seen a video with the smaller holes? The solenoids came with grommets with both...
Hi Camaro Jay, it is simply something that can help with Cam Phaser chatter. It is fairly inexpensive and easy to do and will eliminate a minor thing(cheap) thing in the process of elimination for full replacement of the phasers. Thanks for the comment!🤙
I did this after buying the truck with about 85k. 2006 f150 Mine would knock knock knock when hot and at idle slow speed after tapping gas and it returning to idle knock knock kkncok. The new updated but some kids cured that. Now the only noise the truck makes is occasionally start up slight rattle. And still when hot and letting off the gas and not moving very fast is makes a slight rattle noise. Nothing like it used to. But I would like to know what the noises it still makes are. I run 5-30 and it’s got 110,000 miles on it. I’m getting ready to tow a fairly big camper trailer. So hoping she does well.
Hi Joe, it sounds like you may have worn Cam Phasers. This is a design flaw of the 3V 5.4 L engines. I have seen some run them like that for years, others have failed VVT(variable valve timing)/ valvetrain as a result of letting them go.
BTW, to help get the oil up into the Cam Phasers Ford recommends 5-20 synthetic. In the meantime, make sure you do not go more than 3-5K max on oil changes. Good luck! Thanks for the comment:)
My truck runs and sounds fine but periodically it starts to knock and sound like absolute shit. Sure enough, it threw a P0022 which is the VCT solenoid.
Yea, good point Michael. Found out the hard way. Definitely use the Ford parts on the VCT Solenoid. It definitely is better plus it has the screw stop. Thanks for the comment!
Many things wrong with this video. First can we start with the title, 5.4 ended in 2010 not 2012. Let alone this guy made a video about something he knows nothing about
This video is so wrong, never use Dorman! Also this "easy" method only works on 2004-2007 early build models, 2007 late build to 2014 you MUST remove the valve cover. The vct seal was not installed even halfway it will pop and leak crazy amounts of oil. The startup noise after the repair is a blown timing chain tensioner which is the cause of his dieseling noise when the engine is hot and at low rpm's NOT the VCT solenoid.
I agree. Never use Dorman parts for this repair. Use Ford OEM so you don't lose parts in the engine. Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your channel!
if its a late modle 07 its diff unfortunately:( wish more vidoes out there wouldnt give 07s hope lol
Brian the boss has spoken....I just wish I was close enough to have him rebuild my 5.4 3v
wow ive never seen Brian comment on another channel, maybe i should upload a "repair video " and get a free diag
@@mstchiefa7892 ..Right lmao!
Seems every one is making a video theses days. Only problem is, it's either the wrong information 🚫 or in this case, not enough info☢ in regards to what year you can do this procedure on. So many DIY guys are just doing more damage to there vehicles by not watching FordTecMakuloco's in the first place.✅
I grew up around mechanics my father is a diesel and gas master mechanic my uncle's were shade tree mechanics.... I've been working on engines since I was six, started out on lawn mower engines then onto bigger ones, there are a lot of tricks to the trade that come along with experience, you do it long enough you'll figure them out... But outright this video is very informative for those DO IT YOURSELFERS,
I just did this same repair on my GFs 2005 Expedition yesterday. I bought the model without the catch. It is a very nerve racking repair (being my first time) given the screw could fall. I unscrewed the 27mm bolt, but I kept the screwdriver on the screw as I slowly pulled it out keeping the screw from sliding out. So far so good with the P0012 DTC. I would purchase a longer torx driver because the solenoid has to go in pretty deep. Not a repair I want to do any time soon. Thanks for the video man. It helped a lot.
Thanks for watching!:)
I really enjoyed your video, and I like the way that you showed exactly what you was doing, you were very informative thank you
The lord has blessed me today. I went to autozone to check the engine light on my moms 2005 f150. The code reader showed that the vvt solenoid was going out, along with showing replace the valve cover gaskets. So I thought I had to take off the valve covers to change the vvt. Turns out I have the early model, so this one is simple. I couldn’t afford a mechanic. I work full time at minnimum wage cause I’m not 21 yet to get my CDL. Anyway tomorrow is gonna be a good day🎉
Thank you SO much for this video. Getting ready to replace one on my brother's old 2005 Triton. It keeps stalling intermittently on him, and this was one of 2 codes (other being fuel sensor), and I've never done one of these before, so, I was nervous until I saw this video.
Thanks again buddy!😊
It was actually Mr. Ford that said that quote “wether you think you can or can’t you’re right”
I have a 2005 and was showing a P0012 code. Supposedly the VCT solenoid. Looked like an easy fix like the video, but for some reason my 05 had different valve covers with the much smaller vct holes. I couldn't do it this way. Valve covers had to come off. I've heard of other people on the forums and Facebook groups with the same issue on the earlier models like mine. It figures. Anyway, if you have the smaller holes with the recessed seal, not like this one with the lip on the seal, you cant do it this way. But good video otherwise for the people it'll work for. And of course only use OEM Ford vct solenoids.
OK, so this is a 2008. If you notice somebody Dremel out the side where the screw comes out because factory, they don’t have that little moon notch taken out of the valve cover. You can clearly see if somebody Dremel out the side to where you can actually have enough room to pull out the VCT that is why everybody says you have to take the valve cover off, but I literally got a Dremel and a vacuum And Dremel out a notch to where I had enough room to pull the solenoid out. So if you did not know, somebody already did that for you to make your job a lot easier because if you look at your porthole, that is not a factory notch, that is a custom notch which somebody did with a Dremel or some kind of tool, but it works.
Would it cause check engine light??? Please help
You, as well as plenty of the comments, already mentioned not to use Dorman, so I won’t go there. Good video for those of us with older trucks (2005 here). Think I’ll be tackling a full timing job in the next month or two, so I might as well replace the VCT while I’m at it.
No Dorman! 🤪Thanks for he comment!👍
I'm glad I watched this ! Mine is a 2004 . If it's an 8mm socket , I bet I'll have to pull the valve covers . Dang it . Hope it's the torx !
Any advice on how to remove one from an 08 with the smaller hole in the valve cover without taking off the valve cover? Mine is too much of a pain to get to. Thank you.
2007 and newer Ford changed the valve cover design. You gotta pull the valve covers to get there now.
Hi Sher's Cars....thanks for the comment and heads up. Yea, the slightly older ones are definitely easier to access:)
Try testing the solenoid before removing from engine. Put power to it and if it clicks, try a couple of times. It should loosen up and work. If not then you will need to replace. Worked on my end. Good luck 🤞
Great idea Jaime! Thanks for the comment👍
معلم
❤👍
What if the car does not even turn on to try that out, or does it not need to run to test the solenoid
How did you go about applying power to it? I have heard it’s possible to ground it out somehow.
Bello paisaje sin duda alguna y buena explicación Daniel Sánchez desde Venezuela
A true to form happy ass hammer mechanic!
what codes were you having/ my truck barely wants to move and reverse less.. got codes for timing and camshaft
I have a question I have a 2005 Ford expedition everytime I get to about 3000 RPMs, it sound like there's no air getting to the engine
Suggestion: Why don't you change the title of the video to say up until mid 2007 models so that folks that don't read the comments or watch other vids with 2008 and newer models don't go ordering parts thinking they've got a quick diy job only to find they've got to pull the valve covers?
That’s exactly what I just did.
Then I realized that the solenoid doesn’t fit thru the hole and had to put everything back!😡
I’m pretty sure his is a 2008 but I combined above somebody used a Dremel and shaved out enough room to where you can pull the boat out actually a good idea and a little bit of time consuming because I just did that myself because if you look in his video, the notch that is not factory Somebody definitely did that by hand. And I am thinking the dude who made this video doesn’t even know and thought that it was like that from the factory.
I need replace mine but on bank 2 driver come to find out It's not plugged in no wire ran to it at all have you seen this or...
Sir, so, the reason for replacement was because of noise generated from the original parts, how many miles were on those VCT Solenoids. and OEM Part are Control Solenoid x2 8L3Z-6M280-B-OEM
and Valve Cover Seal Gaskets x2 3L3Z-6C35-AA
Thank You.
I didn't mention the 2002 Ford F-150 pickup has a 5.4 L motor in it but it does not have a VCT solenoid mounted in the valve covers do all 5.4 l in 2002 have BCT solenoid or not
My passenger side doesnt have the tab cutout. I cant get the sensor out because the screw and tab wont fit through it. Took a mic to it and it is fatter in circumference than the new sensor. Do i have to remove the valve cover?? Hate ford...
2006 Lariat doesnt seem to have that removable seal. Means I have to unbolt a dozen things, remove the valve cover, change it and put the engine back together..... Thanks A LOT Ford!
2006 and 2008 use the same solenoids, only the grommet holes are different, engineered to fail.
Do anyone know how to take the torque screw off when the solenoid is centered in the middle w/out taking the intake covers off?
The long torque tool seems to go sideways when reached the torque screw.
Thanks if anyone knows how 👊
Yea I would use the Ford OE. Too risky using aftermarket for critical part.
Amen Sound Mind!After using that dicey part...no thanks! Thanks for the comment:)
Can you use 5W-30 oil in the 5.4 triton motor
Hi Aaron, everything I have read says at minimum is 5W-20 semi synthetic or full synthetic. The reason is that the oil needs to be so light is to make its way up into the VVT and Cam Phasers to keep them working right ie. advancing and retarding. Thicker oil does not allow that to happen. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment!
Trust me use 5w-30. Ford only recommends 5w-20 for emission standards and mpg, 5w - 30 is way better at lubricating the internals of the engine
@@limabean4581
I used 5W-30
And my truck felt like it had more power when I accelerated
You should use 5w30 !! 5w20 is a misprint
Not the same process 2009 and later. Valve cover must be removed. When the vct seal is round, you cannot replace without valve cover removal.
az2wyo, you're right! Thanks for the comment!
Would an o-ring be ok to capture bolt?
Hi Jimmy, yes that sounds like it would work. Thanks for the comment!
i wouldnt want a foreign object that can deteriorate and break off inside my engine.
I have a 2002 Ford F-150 King Ranch Edition pickup and I believe the VCT solenoid is bad but it's not in the valve cover where is it can anybody tell me is it under the valve cover
Mine has no tab to hit on. It’s flush. What do I do?
Center punch the flange close to the bolt
What’s the name of the plug ?
I can't slide mine in with a screw on it won't go in 2009 f150
How did the screens look on the driver side?
A little dirtier. Thanks for the comment!
Awesome!
A before and after sound bit would be in order here.
Hi Jd, yes a longer better sound bit is a good suggestion. Thanks for the comment!
07 5.4 the solenoid won't fit through the hole. The videos make it look easy bc they have the larger hole in valve cover. Has anyone seen a video with the smaller holes? The solenoids came with grommets with both...
How do you know when it needs to be replaced?
Hi Camaro Jay, it is simply something that can help with Cam Phaser chatter. It is fairly inexpensive and easy to do and will eliminate a minor thing(cheap) thing in the process of elimination for full replacement of the phasers. Thanks for the comment!🤙
Wow, you're a very lucky boy. You could of easily cracked the plastic top of the VVTS with your screw driver and hammer trick!
Yes I am. Not the best way to approach it. Thanks for the comment!
I did this after buying the truck with about 85k. 2006 f150 Mine would knock knock knock when hot and at idle slow speed after tapping gas and it returning to idle knock knock kkncok. The new updated but some kids cured that. Now the only noise the truck makes is occasionally start up slight rattle. And still when hot and letting off the gas and not moving very fast is makes a slight rattle noise. Nothing like it used to. But I would like to know what the noises it still makes are. I run 5-30 and it’s got 110,000 miles on it. I’m getting ready to tow a fairly big camper trailer. So hoping she does well.
Hi Joe, it sounds like you may have worn Cam Phasers. This is a design flaw of the 3V 5.4 L engines. I have seen some run them like that for years, others have failed VVT(variable valve timing)/ valvetrain as a result of letting them go.
BTW, to help get the oil up into the Cam Phasers Ford recommends 5-20 synthetic. In the meantime, make sure you do not go more than 3-5K max on oil changes. Good luck! Thanks for the comment:)
Need to top off the power steering fluid...lol
There not always 25 mm torx bit they can be a 10 mm socket
You hammered the crap out of it so you broke it lol but hey good video
Like I said if you have got the Ford one that boat won't come out it is fixed in there
Absolutely! FoMoCo parts are best. Found out the hard way after buying that one. Thanks for the comment!
Haha this one had a lot of laughs in it. I worried about the dropping screws...!
Yea, that was dicey! Thanks for the comment:)
My truck runs and sounds fine but periodically it starts to knock and sound like absolute shit. Sure enough, it threw a P0022 which is the VCT solenoid.
Good luck with the repair! Thanks for the comment:)
Theres another one of those on the other bank if thats a v8
Yes there is. I only showed the one side. Thanks for the comment!:)
Never use Dorman parts, they're absolute crap.
Yea, good point Michael. Found out the hard way. Definitely use the Ford parts on the VCT Solenoid. It definitely is better plus it has the screw stop. Thanks for the comment!
I just bought Dormans from rock auto for $26 each and the screws are protected so they don't come out.
Warning take the valve cover off !!!!!!!!!
Not for an 05
Many things wrong with this video. First can we start with the title, 5.4 ended in 2010 not 2012. Let alone this guy made a video about something he knows nothing about