Ford 4.6L 5.4L 3v Engines: VCT Solenoid Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- You can get the updated VCT Solenoid Here-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K...
Early 5.4L 15 bolt valve cover gasket set I recommend-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...
Late model 5.4L & ALL 4.6L 3v engines 10 bolt valve cover set I recommend-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...
Engine sealant I use and recommend-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
In this video I walk you through vct solenoid replacement on the Ford 3v engines with all my tips and tricks along the way.
Torques Specs: 89 inch lbs
Torque Sequence:
15 Bolt Left-
i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b...
15 Bolt Right-
i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b...
10 Bolt Left-
i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b...
10 Bolt Right-
i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b... 
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I know it’s 7 years later…but I can’t thank you enough man. Appreciate the hell out of your videos.
Dang straight he knows his stuff he’s the go too man on fords
The only thing on this engine that does not go bad is the dip stick!
You sure cause I can barely read my dipstick lmaooooo
Even on fresh oil change
One had a tube rust through on a 5.4
lol. Same here. 😅.
My dip stick tub got rusted and the dip stick fell off
I watched your video until I understood its contents. I have a 2009 Ford Expidition 5.4. I got my work bench prepared with the tools to do the job, bought the Ford VCT's from amazon and new valve cover gaskets. It took me 4 hours start to finish to do the job. Thank you Sir.
I do not know what you make off this channel, but it is not enough. Many thanks.
December 2023 After watching all your 5.4- 3valve videos I didn't want to buy a used Ford, butI did two days ago (2009 F-150 5.4 with 229,000miles). The truck is said to have had the timing chain done and a high volume oil pump. Right when I returned from a test drive the engine started rocking and knocking. I said, "oh oh, whats up now?" the seller admitted he had a diagnoses of the right bank cam out of timing. I shut the truck off and restarted it after a minute and it was smooth again.
I knew right away the problem and looked up the parts and bought the truck anyway. Only $1700 for the rusty Michigan truck. Thanks, the truck is a great improvement over my rusty 1996 Dodge.
I took my 08 f150 to three shops that could not diagnose this issue thanks to you I was able to get my truck back on the road after 2 years thanks for your help! I also recommend everyone asking questions to go through his gold mine of videos before wasting time
I’ve watched around 20 of your videos this past week while I’ve been working on my 4.6. You’ve helped me out a ton while I’ve been trying to figure out this engine. I’m a carpenter by trade so I’m not exactly an expert when it comes to automotive repairs but your videos have made so many things possible for me to take care of myself. Keep up the good work!
Have 320K miles on my 06 F150 and on a recent trip to the beach had this happen to me... Cruising at 75-80mph for about 45 minutes, came to a stop to make a turn, truck started shaking and running rough, tried to coast and she died. She started right back up and we finished our trip, but now I am studying up on how to do a complete timing change. Thanks for these videos.
Did you end up doing it? Mine stalled once after idling in warm weather then coming to stop but nothing noticed since
@@KollynJ Yes, I sure did. Had my iPad in the garage with Brian's videos pulled up. I planned on doing it over two weekends but was able to get it done in one. My truck is still running great with 360k miles. I would say, when the truck sputters especially under light load, my experience has been a bad coil pack.
I bought a $30 OBD scanner from HF to determine if I have a misfire code and what cylinder, then swap it with a known good one and try again (learned from Brian btw). If I get a misfire on the known good cylinder I know the coil pack is bad.
Thanks Brian. Man, I don't know how you do it. Instructional videos, editing, message replies; work on cars. Cheers to you Brian
+Daniel Gomez I am definitely busy but that's good.
One of the best F150 video instructors on the web. I particularly like the detail on re-assembly of the wiring harness - its clearer than showing someone struggling to disassemble. Tkx
A BIG Thank you for the video and the series on VCT. I got the Ford VCT's and replaced the old ones. Which to my surprise, were not Ford parts but VAICO. (??) Change out took less than an hour and so far running much better and smoother; No shaking at stops included. Phasers are worn on my 2006 F150 (170K) and I do see a new motor in my future but for now I have faith she will hold up for a while. Again, Thank you!
Chris - nice video
I worked on GM engines 283's and 327's back in the 60's and 70's. And later flathead ford 6's and 302's and 390's. We would be happy to see valve covers as clean as this one. Normally there would be up to a quarter inch of black hard sludge buildup such that we would have to scrape them out with a hand scraper and then wash them with a stiff fibre brush and clean varsol. An engine today has to be hundreds of times cleaner than those old beasts.
Exactly what I was thinking. My Dad was a mechanic working from home ‘69-‘73. I used to be the one to clean all the parts and scrape gaskets and such. That valve cover was beautiful compared to what I used to see.
Wanted to say thank you for posting these videos. I changed out both VCT Solenoids in my 2005 Expedition and it was a breeze thanks to the info you provided. I didn't have to take off the valve cover for mine (thank God), but I will probably have to tackle that valve cover someday. Anyway, thanks again for your help on here!
How did you do it without removing the valve cover?
@@zacharymundell8508 Holy hell, it's been 5 years since I did that? Wow. Anywho... I believe I popped that seal out from around the top of the solenoid and used driver extensions to get to the fasteners. I was avoiding taking the cover off, but I eventually had to do the entire timing job, so this process was futile in the end.
The 05’s don’t require it. Only like 07 and up, or maybe 09 and up. Different design
I watched both the videos concerning this issue and they are exactly my problem. Thank you
Woo Hoo you are the best. It was a VCT solenoid that was stuck. and checked it out the way you instructed and Yep it purred like a kitten. Thank you for all your help and my mechanic wants to know how much we owe you. LOL Thanks again for your help
I though I had a vacuum leak I came to a stop and I just found this so it should fix my problem thanks bro
Thanks a lot! I'm in the process of replacing mines on 2010 5.4L v3 F150.
Couldn't do it without this videos. Thanks again!
Excellent work man I just did my timing and you walked me through it from the start, this is the finishing video it took me two months everything was rusted (new england)
Man thank you so much FordTechMakuloco for posting these 5.4 VCT videos. I had to replace mine at 88k and it was def the ticking/knocking noise i was trying so hard to diagnose. You are the man! Thank you so much 👍
was it knocking at idle or just in drive under a load?
You make this look so easy. Love the music in the background also by the way.
really thank you for making these. especially the one on changing the timing chain. I plan on doing mine in the furture and i can just follow your video step by step if need be.
Great videos! I’ve learned to do so much on my truck from these. Thanks so much. I’ve recognize the music in the background on some of your videos, right on 👍👍
I did the replacement on a 2008 (9/07 build) Expedition and didn't have to take the AC loose on the passengers side but did have to remove the expansion tank on the drivers side. Took 4 hours total. Make sure you have compressed air to blow out the area around the COPs and then the area around the plugs after you remove the COPs, my engine is clean but there was still a lot of grit in these areas. Worth the time as it runs like NEW, was throwing P0018 and many others and ran like a dog. Top screen on VCT on drivers side was torn, likely the cause of all the issues. Glad to see how clean the interior of the valve cover was. Thanks to RUclips / Google I saved $$$$$$! Used REAL Ford parts from local dealer, $200 including 2x VCTs, 2x VCT seals, 2x Valve Cover Gaskets.
did you have to remove the valve cover?
+Badr Fisal Yes, both sides, but not the AC hose. This is on a 5.4 Expo built 9/07
Thanks I have the same vehicle and model
Man this guy saving me alot of cash The Top Ford Technicien in the World #1 No one can top him!! Thanks alot!!
Thank you for your video's my Ford dealer in Dubuque Ia told me i needed a new engine at the tune of $8500.00 on a 2004 with 85000 miles on it and low and behold your VCT replacement recomendation solved my rough idle after warmup problem i was able to change them out without removing the valve covers through the VCT port and just replace the caps also thank you for you videos.
do explain please, vct port?
I like the worship music in the back ground. The songs sound familiar and caught my attention. Awesome content. Godspeed brother✊🏼
2012 ford expedition 5.4 3v 188 k mi. I was going on a vacation from El Paso to San Antonio I pulled over to use.the John and when I was taking off it started to tough idle oil light flashing and it died had to tow it back home. Giving me po300 po301 po301 it only starts when I floor it but had it for two years no issues until now.
Love your vids please don't stop making them very clear and precise
Huge fan here. You are my go to for modular engines! I have an aging 06 v10 6.8 liter in an f350. I want to keep it going, can you make a few instructional videos on this motor??
I am in awe of you and your knowledge. If i only knew a quarter of what you know about cars I would be the greatest tech in my area. Sincerely, thank you for sharing your experience with those of us that only dream of being as good as you!
he's married sweetheart try to find your daughter another Daddy
"04 F150 4x4. Changed mine from the outside long before I saw this video. Went well, the rubber gasket the surrounds them is a pain to get out and the "pucker" factor is huge when pulling that screw out. Just pull it out with the solenoid so it doesn't fall into the engine. Really enjoy your video's. Just had my timing system completely changed, $2700.
Did this repair to my 2007 Mustang GT over the weekend, awesome! Thanks for the video. I enjoy that my car now sounds like it did when I bought it, not like a diesel with a crappy idle after long periods of driving.
FYI be careful with the valve cover bolts when re-tightening. I managed to shear one off when putting one of the covers back on as I was on the home stretch to being done and back off the cover had to come to dig that bolt out. Dang it!
What were the symptoms of a bad solenoid
have a 2007 Mustang GT 140,000 miles bought it with 3,000 and I've never changed them, still runs great but will change them here shortly. Original clutch, never changed the rear axle, transmission fluid, and coolant. Checked the fluids and they all looked original so i never bothered.
wow amazing,,my 07 gt has 46K miles on it,,got it when it had 20K,,,,its been a great car and a blast to drive
Love your videos they have helped me out a lot.
Your the man , now ima gonna fix my van !
Thank you bro your videos have help
Me a lot since I have a 2005 5.4 Ford thanks amor I have 275000 miles on my Ford so I should replace them before it gives me trouble
Still have it your expedition?
Wish I had seen this before I rebuilt my engine. Mustang 2008 gt 4.6. Great video God bless
Why did you rebuilt it sir? What was your problem?
My apologies on such a late response, it sounded like the lifters then I was told the valves. But just got annoyed and sent it out to get done. Then I finally got to reading and researching found the vct solenoid replacement kit might work so far a lot better then before. Good luck God bless
Excellent stuff. On occasion there can be backfires when these fail, and an important thing to check is the vacuum connector at the rear of the intake which goes to the brake booster. That small hose right at the intake can swell up like a balloon and cause a very tricky-to-find vacuum leak. Happened to me on my 09 Expedition.
Do you have a video on the 5.4 engine common problem s...and how to diagnose it.
I am so glad I bought a 2007 F150 with the 4.6L SOHC. It lacks a little power when towing 6K but its reliable as heck
m ph Agreed
m ph Lacking alittle power towing 6k will pay off when your empty & go to refill the tank!
Hey, Makuloco. I glommed onto this comment because I have the 4.6 and I have noticed a weird kind of croak noise and the sound of liquid trickling that happens about 10 seconds after it's shut off. I thought it was just something decompressing, maybe the coolant or water pump. Today I discovered that the trickle is oil dripping pretty heavily for a few minutes, then it stops. Can you tell what that croak might be?
I miss my old 97 4.6 already lmao
I have a 96 mustang gt with a sohc 4.6 tried everything to get the shaking out but not this.. could changing the vct sensor help me?
Thank you for the video and channel! Keep up the good work!
Hi and thank you for getting back to me. No recent work done to it. Out of VCT and timing what mostly you think will be from your experiments??
FYI Control Solenoid x2 8L3Z-6M280-B-OEM, Valve Cover Seal Gaskets x2 3L3Z-6C35-AA "Solenoid Seal"
Thanks for this. Just did mine today
Absolutely great context. All your videos, Thumbs up
Awesome, just what I needed, Thank you Brian
Love the janitorial and very helpful.
Can you show how to do the PASSENGER side valve cover removal ? Seems tough and I may be wrong, but does the wiring harness go away toward the fender as opposed to the driver side over the top ?
Brian, can you please do a video on how you were able to get to the valve covers, there is a lot of stuff that needs to be removed before you get to the point where your video pick up
There is a 4 video series. 1 of 4, 2 of 4, 3 of 4 and 4 of 4.
You don't actually have to take it off in order to replace the VVT (VCT) solenoid. The grommet comes out and it can be replaced I recommend you go about it that way
@@daviddlugosielski3020 Yeah! I agree with you David. Brian took off the valve covers to remove the VCTs but they could be removed from the port holes externally. Wonder why he did it that way?
Your videos are so good. Thank you
Ford tech makuloco- I bought my 05 F150 5.4 3 valve and shortly after it started making a lot of noise from the front of the motor. I changed phasers, solenoids, cam chain, tensioners, guides, pretty much everything to do with the timing as well as the oil pump. I'm getting a check engine light with a code of p0020 but the truck is not running rough. It is severely lacking power but not running rough or knocking or anything like that at low RPMs or high RPMs. I was wondering if the VVT solenoids could be causing a lack of power and not cause rough idle or engine noise. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I know they have helped me alot since I have bought my F-150! Also thanks for any and all help you or anyone else can offer.
Would you recommend inspection of the vct solenoid if the valve cover is to be removed for a seperate repair on an engine with, say, 90,000 miles?
Thank you, thank you, thank you! You nailed the diagnosis and remedy exactly. My 2009 F150 with the 5.4 and 200,000 mi started shaking like crazy when I came to a stop over a year ago. Local shop said it was the cam phasers and wanted about $3000 to fix. Could not do that, so drove for a year with the left foot braking and right foot giving a little gas to keep the motor running. Did research off and on, but it wasn't until I found your video that I knew the solenoids were my problem. Used to do all my own work years ago and your video gave me the confidence to know I could do this. The first solenoid I pulled had the same busted screens. The links to the needed supplies made it very easy, thank you! I also changed the spark plugs at this time and I would suggest anyone replacing the solenoids also check out FordTechMakuloco video for that. The truck now runs and idles normally! Your video was truly a Godsend.
Hi Conebeam, can you provide little details please. Like did you changed the solenoids by removing the seal only or whole valve cover?
I have seen a couple videos where you can just remove the seal, but those were older model engines than mine. For my 2009 F150, you have to remove the valve cover, the seal opening is too small.
As usual, great video, thank you for sharing your experience.
I run hot shot secret oil additive in my 06 f250 5.4. It’s got 275,000 miles on it. Only thing I’ve replaced is the alternator ( internal wire broke ) and I change the spark plugs every 30,000 miles with the new champion one piece plugs.
Truck still has factory coils.
I change the oil every 4500-5000 miles with full synthetic 5w30.
your channel is so fantastic.
Ur the man. God bless you brother.
I have seen so many videos with the problems of the Phaser components that fail. What do you think of the Phaser lockout kits with engine tuner? The kits install a small tight fitting aluminum block inside the Phaser. Seems like they would eliminate most of the failure of the Phaser design. I would be looking more for increasing reliability, and not for power.
Aw man I’m really hoping this is my problem, having the exact issue you described of stalling at stop signs, just wasn’t sure if I should change my Camshaft position sensor since I got a p0340 code on my 2004 5.4L F150. But I was also thinking my VCT solenoids might be the issue. I’m going to start with that 👍
Any luck? Just did both CPS's (bank 1 and 2) and all the coils... I don't want to do the plugs. Still, dealing with idle issues and stalling after it warms up.
@@StuPedassolme 2 😢 what was ur issue did u find out what it was ..mine is doing the same stalls after a good drive like it ain't gettin fuel
@joeroe2839 it was the cam phasers, due to ford using plastic timing chain guides, throwing off the timing and eating my rockers causing the tick against the cam. I was able to drive it for a while by just unplugging the cam sensors but eventually I knew that tick was just chewing up the lobes on the cam. Had to do phasers, timing chains, cams, rockers and guides, (and of course plugs while in there, because of their tendency to break).
Their may be a cheaper way, it's 4k to have it done... but it'll be good for another 100k miles at least. Have it assessed. Sorry about the bad news.
I have an 04' F-150 triton that runs pretty good most of the time. When I drive it on the street or freeways I have no problem but when I take long trips and hauling with my AC full blast that's when it starts to really shake bad. Do you think it could be the VCT solenoids even though it doesn't shake on normal driving conditions? It also sounds like a Diesel engine a buddy said it might be the timing chains that tend to lose tension after time. Thanks in advance.
Purchased the wedge and spring compressor when I swapped out my Mustang cams. Cost about $300.00 CA. Something to be aware of if using the spring compressor, watch carefully that the spring retainers don't come loose and disengage the valve stem making it possible to drop your valve into the cylinder. Great video!! (as usual)
Bought my 5.4 brand new it has 275k no ticking no knocking only thing done is plugs, coils intake manifold gasket still has factory water pump. First oil change done at 100 miles 2nd 500 miles 3rd 1000 . Full synthetic every 3k miles after that. Coolant flush every 3 years. I'm 100% convicted all the so called common issues with the 5.4 are from poor maintenance cause I've never had any of the issues with my engine.
5w20?
Brian, thank you for all your videos. I recently bought a 2011 navigator. The previous owner had the VCT solenoids replaced a couple years ago, but the vehicle is starting to throw codes about VVT and idle rough. There is also oil leaking from the drivers side solenoid around the grommet. Do you have the part number for those grommets? All I can find are the 2007 and earlier years.
Youre absolutely amazing and have been watching you for the last few weeks after purchasing a 2007 F150 super cab with the 5.4 3v. I have watched other videos and they pull the top gasket and pull the solenoid through the valve cover without removing it, are these videos legit?
You mentioned in the video you would share a link to the valve cover torque spec and pattern. I tried googling it but can't seem to find it. Great video...I'm getting ready to do this to my 2010 Expedition. How tight do the valve cover bolts need to be, and in what order? Thanks and keep it coming!
+Bruce Beals Oops...found it. Sorry...wasn't looking hard enough!
Thank you sir, perfect video
First, Thank you for the wealth of knowledge that you share freely. Secondly, I have a '07 F150 4.6L and experiencing long crank before finally starting (5-6 seconds). Would a stuck VCT solenoid cause this? I have the rough idle, and runs fine at normal operating.
+Mark Hotopp No you need to check fuel pressure cold for a drain back issue.
@@FordTechMakuloco what about a rough idle only when engine warms up? P0022 and p0345
I couldn't find a video you made on a pcv valve replacement on the 5.4l 3 valve. I'm consuming a little bit oil and I thought well I think I'll change the pcv valve if it has one.
There isn’t one
Awesome video Brain.
Fantastic video Brian! question: 2008 f150 4.6L very slight vibration at idle and a bit more when I turn on the AC. Has 100K miles. have cleaned the throttle from carbon and the AFV. Can only feel it when I'm at a stop or in park. Do you think it could be the VCT? Ford dealer says the spark plugs look good and it does not give any error code, also the truck has been maintain well. Please let me know cause they dont know either...jaja
Would this also cause my 2010 f150 4.6l to sputter when accelerating? All new spark plugs, ignition coils, and fuel pump and still sputters when trying to accelerate to pass or gain speed for the speed limit.
Awesome video!
Have the exact symptoms as described here, on a 2010 5.4l with error codes p0012 and p0022. can the solenoids gone bad cause these codes?
Does the pcv valve on the driver side valve cover have a check ball in it and if so is there a way to clean or replace? Also could that cause a P0174 code?
Hello, I have that common shake at idle and think and hope its just the VCT. Codes thrown were P0016 crankshaft position, camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A. To do the quick test to see if the VCT is stuck open do you have to unplug both then drive around the block or just the suspected problem one?
Any chance you can do a video on the VCT solenoid on 5.0L F150.. I have a 2014 and it is a different looking solenoid. If not do you by chance know of one, I have not found that many vids out there on the 5.0l
Love that you can hear Building 429 playing in the background!
I’ve got a 5.4 3v in the shop that keeps setting p0012 and p0022. Runs perfect until you load the engine and then it loses a lot of power and idles very roughly. If you stab the gas it smoothed out again and idles fine. I was thinking it had a bad phaser or solenoid getting stuck. I opened the timing cover up and all the components are brand new dealer parts.
IWORKYOUWATCH check your coils
Osama Abdulla No I scoped the cam sensors and there not overlaying like they should.
Great vid; but I'm wondering, should the cam phaser be swapped out at the same time? Is there an easy way to tell if the phaser has been affected?
had classic vct symptoms and finally warm enough to try solenoid charge on 06 5.4 xlt. Started on driver side, broke connector on wire going to front cover , heat damage and caked full of blue.I made a new connector and put back together without new solenoid and its quiet, no knocking and smooth idle with more power! I still saved solenoids for future ,but look under power steering res bracket, might get lucky like me ,had stuff in cupboard,good old Wisconsin salt and heat.Your videos are the best !!!
Great Channel! I have a 2008 F150 KR 5.4 190,000 that has an engine stubble when warm under light throttle, like pull up the driveway. If I come to a complete stop and give it very little throttle less then a 1000rpm's engine stubbles bad and almost dies. If I turn the truck off and restart its fine, but after a couple of minutes it does the same thing. it has no knocking at hot idle, no codes and runs great. Is this something with the VCT solenoid, Phaser or something else? Thanks.
what is the tube on the valve cover and where is the pcv valve? excellent video
06 5.4 expidition. Did timing, phasers, etc. Not vct. Still pulling p0358 ect. Should have fished more for this vid, your others were very helpful. Saw vid where they just pulled vct cover, not valve. Recommened? Replacable gasket?
Awesome video. Would it be OK to unplug both of the vcts to see if my ticking stops?
Did you fix your problem
where do I get the valve cover, left side
I have a 05 f150 that I replaced the vct solenoids on yesterday. After I did it the truck ran great with no issues, I drove it until it reached normal temp. Today I get in it and it’s back to square one, idling like crap when it reaches temperature. Any suggestions on this?
I think this might be my issue.. 08 f150. Triton 5.4.... Has a knock sound at idle and almost wants to die sometimes when coming to a stop, especially when turning around.. Low throttle it idles and runs rough and sometimes dies. Once driving and up on the rpms its runs fine and smooth with no issues at all.
Great video! Keep 'em comin!
Is the same procedure for Mustang 2007 V6?
Will the newer vct solenoid work/fit on my 2004 f150 5.4 v8 truck?
Have the P0341 code for bank 1 and sometimes rough idle and dying described here. At 152k miles my engine very clean inside so hope this solves it and not another computer problem.
Btw. 2010 Explorer 4.6, 8 bolts on right. 9 on left.
If your engine was this dirty or worse, what steps could you take to clean the engine?
Nice job was it sticking and wat was the symptoms
Do i have to fill the hole wirh oil a bit or to oil up the sensors wenn they look dry?
I have a 2009 f150 with 164k just recently after the truck is warmed up and come down to an idle in reverse usually on an incline I get both p0022 and p0012 codes and starts missing and extremely rough idle. I've unplugged the vct solenoids and she idles perfect. Just had an oil change done wondering if debris is in the passage way. I ordered the vct solenoids , do you think this will fix my problem? Concerned why both codes would appear since they are different banks? Thanks for your videos helps alot
Great video, also great diagnosis video for this problem. Thanks for doing these. I believe you have narrow down the problem for me. I am having the harsh shuttering at stop signs & at idle after driving but I did want to ask, would the VCT also cause engine shaking at higher speeds? & delay in acceleration like when I hold the accelerator at the same position for a few seconds then all of a sudden a burst of power? I have been tracking down this problem for a while. Have installed new coils, plugs, injectors, can & crank sensors, tps, throttle body & new pigtails where needed. This all fixed a lot of low power issues but the hesitation/shutter at higher speeds & harsh shutter at idle & stops still remained. Thanks in advance.
Did you ever figure out the problem brother?
@@gerardogonzalez9586 Hey! Yes I did fix this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it in the end. I finally decided to just go ahead & do the timing chains...which the drivers side had jumped a tooth due to the plastic guides/tensioners shattering & giving too much slack. I replaced everything, timing chain, guides, tensioners, phasers, VCT...all with Ford OEM parts. While I had the engine out I replaced all pigtails on the coils & injectors too...which I had replaced coils & injectors previously like you probably with no change in the hesitation. Once put back together all hesitation was gone, if I have cruise control on & hit a big hill I lose 1-2 mph rather than 10 & the engine doesn’t skip any while idling. An expensive fix...around $2,800 doing it yourself (I do not recommend)...well, the $2,800 was with oil pump, motor mounts, valve covers...everything I could replace while I had the engine out...or $3,800+ at a shop. Ford will put a new engine in for around $6,000-6,800 last I checked. May be the better...easier...route if you have the money & plan to keep the truck for a long time. Hope this helps! & good luck!
I have 2006 f510 with the 5.4. I don't need to remove my valve covers correct? also is that solenoid you recommended the new updated one? and will it work in my truck?
Has anyone followed this video? Can you please tell me how long this should take the average Joe from start to finish? The reason I ask is Makuloco starts with the valve covers already pulled and i will be doing this outdoors. I would like to give myself enough time to finish before dark, Thank you.
Keep up the good work
Hi, I have an 06' lincoln navigator that recently just all of a sudden started with low oil pressure and subsequently started with the knocking in the engine. I took it to the Ford and they said upon first inspection that it was the VCT solenoid, the next day they came back with the engine being shot and replacement needed ($6800). I just can't believe that its the engine. I'm the only owner and in recent years have't driven it much because of my commute during the week.
The knocking is not constant when turned on, it will start fine and then after a couple of miles it starts with the noise, which sounds kinda like a diesel engine. The noise is mostly heard on the left/drivers side by the tire when hood down.
Prior to this problem, it was suffering from a misfire at around 60 mph(it would get shaky) but past that ran fine. I just want some feedback and any suggestions because I feel that as a woman, I may be taken advantage of.